The Perfumery lecture will start at 3pm UK time

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Arabic manuscript in the British Library showing distillation

Translation of the text in the manuscript by LCF students:

To my son,

You should know that if your flame is too strong the water will rise yellow to where collected and will be ruined. When your flame is utilized in the proper way, you will obtain what you need, having the will and support of God. The distillate should be kept away from sunlight until needed; then take the oil from the water.

Photograph Marianne Martin Gatekeeper butterfly on jasmin in my garden 2

Consultant perfumer educator

Lecturer in perfumery for students studying for an MSc in cosmetic science

Creative lecturer for one week short courses at UAL with Nicola Pozzani until 2020 running 3 times a year

Tutor for local council adult education programme using learning to improve mental health

Trained yoga and mindfulness teacher

Aims

• To inspire your interest in fragrance

• To enliven your perception of odour

• To encourage you to study the perfumery unit in the SCS distance learning diploma

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Learner Outcomesby the end of the session learners will be able to:

• State at least one reason why odour perception varies from individual to individual

• State at least one reason why fragrance is important to cosmetic science

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6Virtual jasmin inspiration from my garden

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Examination technique

Remember to pace the time you need to take for each question

Read the …. question

Pay attention to the following words:

State

Discuss

Explain

Are your noses professional? Poll

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Perfumery unit study Poll

Have you read some of the perfumery unit?

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Perfumery exam questionPoll

• Do you feel ready to answer the perfumery question in the exam?

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Perfumery smelling activities in the unit Poll

• Have you done any of the smelling activities given in the unit?

• If you have done a smelling activity did you find it gave you some insight into perfumery?

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Citrus oilsI hope most of you have a citrus fruit to hand if not you can do this exercise with your imagination.

Where are the essential oil sacs on a citrus fruit?

1. In the juicy centre

2. In the zest or skin

3. In the pith

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Citrus soak

I hope most of you have a citrus fruit to hand.If not, you can do this exercise with your imagination.

• If you have a fruit, break the surface and soak in the aroma• How does it make you feel?• If you do not have the fruit close your eyes and imagine the

smell of a specific citrus fruit• Is imagining the smell of the fruit easier or harder than

visualising the fruit image?• Did your mouth fill with saliva when you thought of or

smelt the fruit?• How do you feel?

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Support of hair care benefits Poll

1. Do you believe citrus fragrances support the cleansing hair care benefit? Strongly agree – strongly disagree

2. Do you believe vanilla fragrances support a nourishing hair care claim? Strongly agree – strongly disagree

3. What about citrus supporting nourishing and vanilla supporting cleansing? Strongly agree – strongly disagree

Halo effectThe importance of choosing the fragrance that supports all the benefits of the cosmetic product and is compatible with the packaging is emphasised in the unit

Psychology of Olfaction

•Senses and emotions are multi modal

•A memory is held in the limbic system with all senses and emotions together

•Odour messages reach the piriform cortex without being relayed through the thalamus

•We react to an odour emotionally before our logical mind is engaged

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Anatomy and Physiology of Olfaction

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Wilson, D. Running just to stand still. Nat Neurosci 15, 1175–1176 (2012). https://doi.org/10.1038/nn.3192

Orbital frontal cortex

Psychology of Perception

•Why is this information important for the cosmetic scientist?•The perception of each sense is affected by the

other senses•Visual cues will affect how we perceive odour•This is important point in setting up panel testing•Odour will affect how we perceive touch or vision•The fragrance in a product can enhance or detract

from the perception of the product benefits such as cleanliness, smoothness or shine

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Language of perfumery

• NoteBorrowed from music meaning one perfume ingredient, or one odour entity

• AccordBorrowed from music meaning two or three perfume ingredients or notes giving an harmonious blend

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“Smells like babies”

“Smells like shampoo”

“I love the one that smells like coffee? Which one is it I want to buy it”

Why does the cosmetic scientist need to consider fragrance?

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Perception - Recreating a whole picture

• If we learn an odour of a complex mixture in psychology this is termed as an ‘object’

• Once we have learnt an ‘object’ if we only perceive a portion our brain will fill in the gaps

• Just as when we see a corner of a table we recognise it as a table

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Perception - Recreating a whole picture

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Perception - Recreating a whole picture

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Van Gogh Van Gogh’s chair 1888

Look at the following slides and see if you can experience the process that your brain goes through in identifying the objects

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Sometimes when we perceive complex fragrance blends we can flip between ‘seeing’ two different fragrance ‘objects’

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Sometimes its more difficult to perceive different notes in a fragranceSometimes it helps if someone else points out the two fragrance ‘objects’

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Sometimes its more difficult to perceive different notes in a fragranceSometimes it helps if someone else points out the two fragrance ‘objects’

Can you see the young woman? Can you see the old woman?

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Sometimes its more difficult to perceive different notes in a fragranceSometimes it helps if someone else points out the fragrance ‘objects’

Can you see both women?

Older women’schin

Younger woman’s eye lash

Older women’s mouth

Older women’s eye

Younger woman’s ear

Younger woman’s chin

Older women’s nose

The individuality of odour perception

Factors:

•Experience of odour

•Strong childhood memories

•Different cultures we have been exposed to

•Our experience of the market will prime us to expect a particular style of fragrance in a product type

•Genetics – the genes responsible for expressing odour receptors

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• In the mammalian genome there are about 1000 genes for the expression of odour receptors

• In humans only about 350 of these olfactory genes are functioning

• There are up to 12 variants for each functioning olfactory gene

• The number if possible combinations of functioning olfactory genes calculates to around 3 billion (assuming 350 possible functioning genes and 12 variants for each)

• The population of the world 2020 is 7.8 billion

Genetics and the Sense of Smell

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• So you can see that the variation in perception is almost individual

• When one person smells lemon the picture of the odour they perceive may be somewhat different to their friend or colleague

Genetics and the Sense of Smell

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Threshold Levels vary from individual to individualLiving the reality before the science

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Blackcurrant bud one of the few fruity natural extracts used in perfumery

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The fragrance development manager response to my ‘blackcurrant’ fragrance:

Threshold Levels vary from individual to individualLiving the reality before the science

Tom Cat

Read about the fragrance development manager role in the unit

a) Watermelon; fresh, sweet; reminds me of a summer picnic with watermelon to eat

b) Whenever I eat salmon my mum makes a bowl of sliced cucumbers dowsed in vinegar. Calone reminds me of that

c) Fresh ozonic; reminds me of sea shore, shells, fish, marine life

d) Ocean, salty, fishy; matt, wet; reminds me of a smelly beach, not pleasant

LCF Student Odour Recognition Journal entries for Calone

Variation in Odour Perception

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LCF Student Odour Recognition Journal entries for Calone

Variation in Odour Perception

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f) Calone reminds me of watermelon after swimming in the cool salty sea

g) Calone reminds me of a sea salt candle that always burns at my parent’s house, it reminds me of home

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Influence of Synthetics in 20th Century Perfumery and beyond Calone

L’Eau par Kenzo pour HommeKenzo 1999

L’Eau d’IsseyIssey Miyake 1992

New West for him Aramis 1988

Escape for womenCalvin Klein 1991

Acqua di GiòGiorgio Armani 1996

Boss PureHugo Boss 2008

CK2 Calvin Klein 2016

39Read the unit! Wake up and smell the lemons!

I normally include some information about extraction techniques in the summer school….

Considerations for natural sustainable fragrance ingredients:• Energy use:

• Reducing the use of energy in transportation and in production processes

Sustainable issues for naturally derived fragrance ingredients

https://www.biolandes.com/biolandes-livre-ylang.php?voyage=o&lg=en

Ylang Ylang flower

Find out about fragrance on the web

• https://www.fragrantica.com• Information about fine fragrance in the market place

• https://www.thegoodscentscompany.com• Information about fragrance ingredients

•Don Wilson TED Talk about fragrance perception•https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgZpDolr148

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Examination technique

Remember to pace the time you need to take for each question

Read the ….. question

Pay attention to the following words:

State

Discuss

Explain

Aims

• To inspire your interest in fragrance

• To enliven your perception of odour

• To encourage you to study the perfumery unit in the SCS distance learning diploma

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Learner Outcomesby the end of the session learners will be able to:

• State at least one reason why odour perception varies from individual to individual

• State at least one reason why fragrance is important to cosmetic science

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Start to be aware of the fragrances in all the products you use

Assessment Poll

• Is it your ambition to be more involved in fragrance as part of your career at some point?

• Are you intending to do the fragrance question in the exam?

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:

• Good luck with your studies

• The average person takes about 8 million breaths a year

• Enjoy your sense of smell

Thank you

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