The Jay at Mavericks

The Jay aT

MaVeRICKSB i g W a v e i n v i t a t i o n a l

20102011

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puBlished By the half moon Bay revieW

q&a With 10-time asp tour Winner

kellyslater

contest info

Bios of

Why jay?

the jay at mavericks

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carlos Burle: Finished fifth last year and showed more brazen courage than anyone in the final, taking a couple of mid-face wipeouts on waves most surfers wouldn’t have gone near. But that’s been the M.O. of this dedicated Brazilian for years, and he reached a career peak last winter by taking the overall first place in the Big Wave World Tour, a five-venue event organized by Mavericks head judge Gary Linden. Burle has caught some of the biggest tow-in waves on record, including a kelp-ridden monster at Ghost Tree that earned him 2009 Billabong XXL award nominations for Monster Tube and Ride of the Year. He also won Biggest Wave honors in 2002 for a Mavericks wave measured at 68 feet on the face. Grant Baker calls him “the most intelligent person I have surfed big waves with. He makes no mistakes and still surfs the biggest waves of any day.” (Brazil)

ryan augenstein: Other Santa Cruz surfers get more publicity, but Augenstein can match Mavericks water time with any of them. A well-established lifeguard in his home area, Augenstein got his first contest invite in 2005 and made a big impression, reaching the semifinals. And he’s drawn respect this winter by surfing one of the shortest boards (8’4”) ever ridden by the Mavericks regulars. In a recent interview with Surfing magazine, Augenstein described his relationship with Mavericks as “a pre-arranged marriage. We were born to dance together.” (Santa Cruz)

kenny (skindog) collins: Whether it’s tow-surfing or paddling, Collins tends to stand out on the most fearsome days at Mavericks. He pioneered the Northern California tow-in movement with Santa Cruz partner Peter Mel in the late 1990s and was part of a titanic semifinal in the 2000 contest that will go down with the most memorable heats in surfing history. A life-threatening wipeout at “Jaws,” in December of 2004, had Collins pausing to sort out his priorities, but he has bounced back with a vengeance. In the summer of ’06, he came out of a massive tube at Puerto Escondido — one of the most sensational performances ever witnessed at the famed Mexico break — to win both Ride of the Year and Monster Tube in the XXL awards. He also staged a spirited run to reach the finals of last year’s Mavericks contest. (Santa Cruz)

grant (tWiggy) Baker: Mavericks is all about the drop, and this unassuming South African — winner of the 2006 contest — has become the master. In the words of fellow competitor Mark Healey, “Twiggy’s timing, when he’s paddling into big waves, is probably better than anyone else I’ve seen. He has a knack for putting himself as deep as possible and still making it.” One of the few surfers to dedicate his life to surfing big waves worldwide, Baker is a constant factor in the annual Billabong XXL big-wave awards, earning last winter’s Ride of the Year (from the Mavericks contest) and winning for Biggest Wave and Best Overall Performance in 2008-09. Twiggy shared the experience of a lifetime with Long, Mike Parsons and Brad Gerlach in January of ‘08, venturing out to Cortes Bank (off the California coast) to tow-surf waves still recognized as the largest ever ridden. “To me, he’s the favorite,” says Shane Dorian. “Between his wave selection, aggressive approach and technical ability at Mavericks, he’s who I would put my money on.” (South Africa)

shane desmond: He is undoubtedly the most respected backside surfer in Mavericks history, having ridden the place with fearless abandon since the mid-1990s. Some say only a crazy man would consistently surf Mavericks with his back to the wave, but Desmond — a low-key bartender for years in his native Santa Cruz -- has proven to be an extremely smart, calculating performer. He won the 2005 XXL Paddle-In award for an astounding ride during the Mavericks contest, and he staged a dynamic performance last year to finish second behind Chris Bertish. Hardly a big-wave specialist, Shane is an accomplished contest surfer on longboards when the waves drop to more normal levels. (Santa Cruz)

chris Bertish: There hasn’t been a more popular contest winner, anywhere, than Bertish at Mavericks last year. The 36-year-old South African is one of the most stoked, enthusiastic big-wave surfers on the planet, and he pulled out the victory after a frantic, 36-hour adventure to get to Half Moon Bay on time. He arrived to discover that his board didn’t finish the journey, and the set waves were huge: 50-60 feet on the face, the largest ever for a paddle-in surf contest. Riding a board borrowed from Mavericks pioneer Jeff Clark, Bertish called it “an honor and a privilege” to be invited, describing the day as “scary beautiful.” He returns this year with some momentum, having finished second in giant surf at the Nelscott Reef (Oregon) contest in early November. (South Africa)

shaWn dollar: In the break between the semifinals and finals of last year’s contest, a few non-invited surfers hit the water. One of the day’s biggest sets blackened the horizon, and Dollar — a longtime Mavericks regular from Santa Cruz — successfully negotiated a 60-foot drop that earned him Monster Paddle honors in the Billabong XXL awards. “Don t know his name? You will soon,” wrote Surfing magazine. Now a main-list entrant for the first time, Dollar says, “Mavericks is the place where it all matters. The wave is so good, so challenging for paddling, and we haven’t seen its full potential yet. I love and fear that wave. It’s my obsession.” (Santa Cruz)

the

24Biosofthe24 contestants& alternate listBy Bruce Jenkins, renowned sports journalist and Montara resident. Cover photo by Lars Howlett. Design: Bill Murray.

The Jay aT

MaVeRICKSpast Winners:1999 Darryl (Flea) Virostko2000 Darryl (Flea) Virostko2004 Darryl (Flea) Virostko2005 Anthony Tashnick2006 Grant (Twiggy) Baker2008 Greg Long2010 Chris Bertish

matt amBrose: At 39, and still charging, Ambrose represents the heart and soul of Mavericks. He was there from the beginning, part of Jeff Clark’s original, Pacifica-based crew in the early 1990s, and if you want to know who rides the deepest, just find out where Ambrose has positioned himself. Grant Washburn likes to joke that if there were no official contest, “We’d just hold the Matt Ambrose Challenge. Whoever gets the biggest, nastiest wave — an Ambrose wave — would win.” Once known as an underground warrior, Ambrose became an established name after reaching the finals in four consecutive Mavericks contests between 2000 and ’06. (Pacifica)


shane dorian: This will be the first Mavericks contest for the man widely considered the best big-wave surfer in the world. He hadn’t surfed the place until last winter, and over the course of two days, the native Hawaiian experienced everything it has to offer. In the early-morning hours before the contest, Dorian took off on a massive wave, disappeared inside the barrel, and came out — something that virtually never happens at Mavericks. The following day, with the surf just as large, Dorian endured a two-wave hold-down that kept him underwater so long, “I really felt like I wasn’t going to make it.” Badly shaken, and thinking about his family back home in Hawaii, Dorian did a lot of soul-searching before settling his mind and resuming his quest for big waves. “Mavericks is the last stop for anyone trying to push themselves to the limit in big waves,” Dorian said recently. “There are many people who surf big Waimea but want nothing to do with Mavericks. I love surfing it, but at the same time, it scares me pretty good.” (Hawaii)

rusty long: It’s not easy being Greg Long’s brother, especially if you want to ride big waves, but Rusty pulls it off with aplomb. His low-key approach has kept him somewhat off the radar, and he isn’t quite as well-traveled as Greg, but he is widely recognized as a major player in any conditions. Rusty was nominated for the 2007 XXL Ride of the Year for a wave he scored at Puerto Escondido (Mexico) — and he was paddle-surfing that day, while most everyone else was towing. When it comes to Mavericks, “My relationship with the wave has been a good one over the years,” he says. “I always to be tactical and pick off waves that I will really remember. I always listen to my instincts about when to surf there, too. Some days I don t feel it, some days I really do.” He was definitely feeling it on the day of last year’s contest, boldly pulling into the barrel of a 50-foot face during the early-morning free-surf. That mind-blowing sight, as much as anything, earned him a spot in this year’s event. (San Clemente)

nathan fletcher: The youngest son in the noted Fletcher family from Southern California, Nathan shied away from surfing in his youth, only to emerge as a stunningly talented, fearless rider. He’s been a Mavericks standout on huge days, including the storied November ’08 swell described as the best ever for paddle-in conditions, and he staged a sensational early-round performance at the January ’08 Backdoor Shootout in Hawaii on one of the biggest Pipeline days ever ridden in a contest. “He has a natural talent that exceeds any of the top guys,” says Grant Baker, and Hawaiian underground standout Dustin Barca says Fletcher is “my favorite person to watch surf. Dances to his own beat.” (Hawaii)

alex martins: Originally from Brazil, Martins moved to Northern California and established residence near Ocean Beach, so he could surf that punishing beachbreak with regularity. But that was just the start. Graduating to the Mavericks lineup, Martins has become one of the most dedicated, respected surfers in the lineup — and he was right there on Nov. 2, the first big day of the current season, catching his share. He had three separate photographs nominated for the 2009 Billabong Monster Paddle award, all from a November session at Mavericks. And he drew a similar nomination last year for a wave at the Mavericks contest, where he reached the semifinals. (San Francisco)

mark healey: Yet another reason why this year’s field is considered the strongest ever. A living legend in Hawaii for his big-wave surfing and free-diving expeditions — along with a generous, humble nature — Healey has made a lasting commitment to Mavericks. “A true waterman,” says Greg Long. “He has taken some of the heaviest floggings and ridden some of the most terrifying waves in the past few years.” Healey won the Monster Tube award in the 2009 Billabong XXL contest, at a mysto spot identified only as “the Pacific Northwest,” and as Dorian put it, “I honestly think Healey is mentally prepared to paddle into waves that NO one wants.” Even more impressively, he’s doing it backside. “I feel like I’ve got a lot to learn at Mavericks,” he says. “Even though I’ve been going there for three or four years, it’s a new relationship. I don’t feel like I’ve got it figured out.” (Hawaii)

peter mel: To say that he’s “due” would be putting it mildly. For nearly a decade, Mel was the hands-down choice as Mavericks most talented, influential surfer. He helped launch the Northern California tow-in movement and ranks with Richard Schmidt as the best-known Northern California surfers in Hawaiian events (especially the Aikau contest) over the years. But he still hasn’t won at Mavericks, having fallen victim to bad luck, bad timing, and (in his opinion) perhaps a dubious judging call or two. If for nothing beyond his peace of mind, Mel needs this trophy. He doesn’t appear to have slowed down much, reaching the final of the recent Nelscott Reef event and finishing third at Punta de Lobos in Chile, the inaugural event of this year’s Big Wave World Tour. (Santa Cruz)

greg long: This Southern California-based surfer has racked up a staggering list of big-wave accomplishments. At Mavericks, he finished second in the 2005 event and took first prize in 2008, memorably sharing his winnings with the other five surfers from the final. In December of ’07, he surfed a single swell in Hawaii, Northern California and Todos Santos (Mexico) over the course of 72 hours, a feat of titanic endurance. Last December, he became the first Californian to win the prestigious Eddie Aikau contest, held in all-time conditions at Waimea Bay. He has won Billabong awards for Biggest Wave (Dungeons, South Africa, 2006), Biggest Paddle-In (Todos Santos, 2008), Best Overall Performance (2007-08 winter) and Ride of the Year (Dungeons, 2009). “I may be biased, because we travel together,” said Baker, “but if you can show me anyone with a higher big-wave count over the past few years, I’ll eat my words.” (San Clemente)

ryan seelBach: Out of San Francisco, where he hones his big-water skills at the challenging Ocean Beach, Seelbach is no stranger to Mavericks chaos. He managed to advance out of his first heat in the 2005 contest despite having to retrieve his lost board from the distant lagoon. He missed much of the ’06 winter after breaking his foot during a tow-in session. But he has become a highly esteemed regular, reaching the semifinals three years ago and again last year, and he was a standout during the epic December ’07 tow-in sessions that marked some of the biggest waves ever ridden at Mavericks. (San Francisco)

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kelly slater: As if it wasn’t enough to lure Dorian and Healey into the mix, here comes the 10-time world tour champion and, in most experts’ opinion, the greatest surfer who ever lived. You can read all about his tour exploits elsewhere; not everyone realizes that Slater has been a dedicated big-wave surfer since his early days on the North Shore, often paddling to the outer reefs for epic, unheralded sessions with the locals. He ll surf giant Pipeline or Cloudbreak with the best of them. He has excelled at Teahupo’o (Tahiti), the world’s most dangerous break. He won the Eddie Aikau event in 2002 and nearly did it again last year, losing narrowly to Greg Long after a series of masterful takeoffs at Waimea Bay. Slater has only surfed Mavericks twice in the past, including the 2000 contest, when he stunned everyone — including himself — by finishing second to Flea Virostko. Some felt the judges wrongly advanced Slater into the finals at the expense of Jay Moriarity, and even now, Slater speaks of his good fortune that day. He was truly humbled and awe-struck by Mavericks and the people who surf it. For Slater, that is quite a rare occurrence. (Florida)

darryl (flea) virostko: We find a different Flea this winter. In the summer of 2008, Virostko revealed that he is an alcoholic and had fallen deeply into a methamphetamine habit. He went into rehab that August, got himself clean, and then established his own Santa Cruz center for drug-and-alcohol recovery, known as FleaHab. After two years of what he called “heavy” meth abuse, “I’m a new person now,” he said. “I’m just fortunate I got out of (that period) without any felonies, without any DUIs, without killing someone. And I still have my physical health.” His surfing, of course, needs no introduction. He won each of the first three Mavericks contests (1999, 2000 and 2004), and in a sport where classic wipeouts make history, Flea owns two: an epic free-fall during the 2004 Aikau contest and an inside-the-lip Mavericks disaster in December ’07 on a face conservatively measured at 65 feet. No longer a crazy man on land, he’d like to prove he still has his awe-inspiring talent in the water. (Santa Cruz)

tyler smith: Here’s just one example of the type of surfer who would draw Slater’s respect, a man with a long and successful commitment to Mavericks and all big surf in Northern California. A few winters back, people saw photos and videos of Smith riding the surrealistically large “Ghost Tree” break, in Monterey, and wondered, “Who is this guy?” They have found the answer in Mavericks contests, where the Santa Cruz-based Smith finished third in 2005 (sliding into the main draw as an alternate and surfing his way into the final), second in the 2006 event and fourth in 2008. Over the course of those three contests, he was the only surfer to reach all three finals. And he did it all surfing backside. (Santa Cruz)

grant WashBurn: From his filmmaking to his work on the book “Inside Mavericks” to his constant presence in the lineup, Washburn is probably the leading spokesman on Mavericks. He has no problem surfing it alone, in contrary winds, in fearsome conditions that would scare most people away. It is widely believed that Washburn puts in more Mavericks time than anyone, and not since Greg Noll has any big-wave rider been so doubly proficient at performance and documentation. Grant has produced two surf films, and with a massive personal collection of big-wave footage and interviews, he has much more in store. Always a standout at San Francisco’s Ocean Beach and the Red Bull/South Africa contest, Washburn was a Mavericks finalist in 2004, 2006 and 2008. And as the contest endured a swirl of lawsuits and political chaos at the organizational level over the past several months, Washburn emerged as perhaps its most authoritative voice, intent on protecting the surfers’ best interests. (San Francisco)

jamie sterling:He could be well on his way to winning this year’s Big Wave World Tour. He finished fourth as the tour kicked off at Punta de Lobos, Chile, won the Pico Alto (Peru) contest in August, then finished third at Nelscott Reef (Mavericks and Todos Santos are the tour’s final two events). None of this is surprising to anyone who has followed Sterling’s career, back to the days when he broke into the big-wave hierarchy as a North Shore teenager. In the 2006 Billabong XXL awards, he was honored for Best Overall Performance. He finished an impressive third in the 2008 Mavericks contest, after dominating his first two heats, and he won the Jay Moriarity Award that day for the spirit best exemplifying the late, great Santa Cruz surfer. (Hawaii)

dave Wassel: Mavericks locals welcomed this longtime underground charger from Hawaii, where he serves as a North Shore lifeguard and ranks among the most respected members of the Pipeline crew. His first-ever wave at Mavericks four years ago, a bomb from well outside the bowl, nearly gained him the XXL Paddle-In award. He now makes Mavericks a priority, surfing with distinction during the epic November ’08 swell, making the semifinals two years ago after gaining entry as an alternate, and finishing a solid fourth in last year’s life-threatening conditions. “You can’t compare this place to Hawaii,” he says. “It’s got cold water, giant sharks, giant waves and giant rocks. It’s like nothing else.” What separates Wassel from most Hawaii-based surfers is that he keeps coming back, as if drawn by magnetic force. Deeply appreciated by the Mavericks regulars, Wassel won the Jay Moriarity Award at last year’s contest. (Hawaii)

anthony tashnick: A legend at 16, when he stepped up to ride what many called the “wave of the winter” at Mavericks in 2001, Tashnick is now a mainstay in the world of big-wave riding. The latest in a long line of chargers from the West Side of Santa Cruz, Tashnick won the 2005 Mavericks contest in such dominant fashion, there was no question who would take home the trophy. Well-traveled in his thirst for big waves, Tashnick has made the alternate list of the prestigious Eddie Aikau contest four straight years. He finished third and won the Gnarliest Drop award at last year’s Mavericks contest — quite a distinction, considering the historic size — and was a finalist at the Pico Alto contest in August. (Santa Cruz)

Zach Wormhoudt: Another key member of the West Side crew from Santa Cruz, Wormhoudt got some long-overdue recognition in 2004, when he won the Billabong XXL Award for the biggest paddle-in wave of the winter. He is among the most accomplished tow-surfers in the world, earning a Biggest Wave nomination in the 2009 XXL awards for a ride at Nelscott Reef. But he is most true to his paddling and is among the most consistently solid performers in the history of the Mavericks contest, having finished eighth in 1999, fifth in 2000 and fourth in 2005. Zach and his brother, Jake, represent Old Mavericks in the most positive sense, having ridden the place responsibly, time and again, and lived to tell about it. (Santa Cruz)

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Ben andreWsandreW marrtravis payne

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mike gerhardtgarrett mcnamararussell smith

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has been a memorable year of extremes in the surfing world, including the untimely death of three-time world champ Andy Irons and the 10th world title for Kelly Slater. Yet, when Mother Nature makes the call, Mavericks

will once again surge front-and-center into the impact zone. “The Jay at Mavericks Big Wave Invitational” could be called any time between Dec. 1 and Feb. 28.

By a fortuitous accident of geography, the reefs off of Pillar Point have for eons funneled muscular long-period winter swells into cavernous bowls and towering walls off the Coastside, which has only recently rolled out its welcome mat for this new threshold of surf legend and lore. For one epic day this winter, our cozy hamlet will be thrown into a

frenzy of activity as the contest machinery whirs to life, spectators jostle, shutters click, Jet Skis hum and locals either rejoice or duck for cover. Why, then, name the contest after a cheery, blue-eyed kid from Santa Cruz with the disarming grin who drowned on June 15, 2001, free-diving in the Maldives?

Well, in a world full of compromises, traffic jams, deadlines, dead-end jobs, bills, taxes and any number of other banal distractions, Jay Moriarity lived his brief life with the rare sort of purity, joy and focus that most people never achieve in a lifetime. Pacifican Matt Ambrose vividly remembers the wide-eyed grom who “blew past me straight to the bowl” and said it “looked fun” before swinging into a past-vertical freefall. A less precocious veteran would have had a gut check, knowing that he’s way too deep if

closer to the peak than Matt.But from the moment Moriarity launched

into public consciousness at age 16 on Dec. 19, 1994, on the cover of Surfer, crucified in the maw of a feathering lip of that very same wave, he surfed his life in the sweet spot, right in the curl, making Mavericks his second home. At times he was so excited to greet a rising swell, he was known to sleep overnight on the cliffs to be the first to crack it at dawn. Surely that’s grounds for residency, or squatter’s rights in Princeton. How many people can honestly say that their path inspires that level of passion?

In a short 22 years, Moriarity’s preparation and athleticism was only outclassed by his infectious personality, which deeply touched those who knew him, surfed with him and loved him. And

Whyjay?

This year, the Mavericks contest carries with it the name and legacy of a California surfing legend

By Michael WallaceSpecial to the Review

it

“We all tap into our inner Jay — that

amped-up 15-year- old Who Was draWn to mavericks. Jay is that rare individual

Who makes a lasting impression on

everyone he meets.”Grant Washburn,

Mavericks surfer

Jay Moriarity was no stanger to the powerful Mavericks swells. photo by doug acton


one person who knew him well was his Mavericks mentor and tow partner Jeff Clark. The pioneering big-wave gladiator and the young gun built a special relationship in the water, logging countless sessions seared in the memories of a small cadre of awed witnesses.

“Mike Gerhardt, one of Jay’s best friends, brought me a bunch of stickers recently that said: ‘Never Forget Jay!’” Clark recalls. “And I said, ‘Mike, what do I need those for? I’ll never forget Jay.’”

On just one of those many special days, Clark threw Moriarity the tow rope on an improbably giant and clean swell on Dec. 22, 2000, and told the few remaining stragglers in the channel: “The sun’s going down, it’s 25-foot and we’re going to show you the future.” With the harbor horn bleating its lonely call, an amber mist on the water and the size of the swell amplified by the 20- to 30-foot spinnakers of spray and dark silhouettes of the waves, Clark zipped out the back and whipped Moriarity into a bomb. It was one of the longest rides ever witnessed at Mavericks and you could only follow Moriarity’s progress by watching Clark faithfully tracking him on the ski over on the shoulder while Moriarity was completely engulfed by the shadows for almost the entire length of the ride.

Kicking out 45 seconds later, past the rocks, Moriarity would have probably continued all the way into Surfer’s Beach and high-fived a few groms if the wave hadn’t prolapsed back into the maelstrom.

As celebrated sports journalist and Montara resident Bruce Jenkins sums it

all up, Moriarity set the tone for future generations: “There’s only one thing about the Mavericks contest that reminds me of Jay, and that’s the contest day itself. It’s always a huge success — fog, wind, rising tide, whatever, to say nothing of perfect days — because of the spirit in the water. It all came to a head three years ago, when Greg Long split his winnings among the five other finalists, but the Mavericks lineup always shines when the very best, most committed guys are in the water. All the egos, sponsorship deals and personal agendas are cast aside, and nobody epitomized that attitude more than Jay.

“If he got the biggest wave on a certain day, he only wanted to talk about Grant’s wave, or Ambrose’s, or how good one of the hot young kids looked out there. His soul was pure; nobody could recall ever seeing him out of character,” Jenkins said.

Moriarity had the audacity to live to the fullest, push over the ledge and laugh at life’s precariousness. In this sense, surfing Mavericks is better characterized as a dance of life, rather than cheating death. This is why those of us chained to desk jobs and the daily grind are drawn to witness the contest. We are transported for a fleeting few seconds when time is suspended and a relatively puny human stands up, dwarfed by the enormity of the universe, pulls in, and comes back out to do it again, rejoicing in his good fortune to be alive in such a place.

“For me, Jay represents the personification of stoke,” said Mavericks veteran Grant Washburn. “Enlightenment is usually described as living in the moment,

and enjoying every minute — and people work hard to achieve that state, but I think Jay was born with it. He had this very special disposition, a way of treating everyone like an old friend. He also had a habit of giggling at everything, and it was contagious.

“As we grow up, most of us lose part of the magical feeling that comes from just having fun,” Washburn continued. “Big-wave surfing is a way for us to get back to the wonder of being a kid. When a big set hits the reef, everyone becomes a wide-eyed grom. We all tap into our inner Jay — that amped-up 15-year-old who was drawn to Mavericks. Jay is that rare individual who makes a lasting impression on everyone he meets. If one of my kids had been a boy, he would have been named Jay. We had girls, but my wife liked the name Jaden… so I asked if we could throw a ‘y’ in there. Now my younger daughter Jayden is almost 6.”

Unlike Eddie Aikau, the Waimea lifeguard who sacrificed his life at age 31 on March 17, 1978, to save his crew stranded aboard the Hokule’a in the Molokai channel, Moriarity didn’t put his life on the line to save others. Aikau made more than a thousand undocumented rescues, but of course couldn’t be bothered to do the paperwork. Aikau selflessly put others’ lives before his own and, in addition to being a true waterman,

set the standard for Aloha and Hawaiian pride.

In contrast, it was by living for the moment that Moriarity provided his lasting gift. Rising above pettiness, avarice, selfishness and other human frailties, he led by example with joy, camaraderie and inclusiveness that all too often seems to get lost in the rip tides of negativism. To “Live Like Jay” is to embody goodness, friendship and stoke. As contest organizer Katherine Kelly Clark recalls, “Jay was an angel come to earth. He used to come into my café and just light it up. I loved him like a son or a kid brother — nothing can replace him. Jay belonged to the world, crossed all barriers and rose above it all.”

What did Aikau and Moriarity share in common? Neither of our humble heroes sought the limelight; it came and found them. Both innately knew the secrets to living a simple life fully and sharing their gifts for doing so. Both, by their shining example, compel us to reflect on our own better nature. And, both were taken from us too soon.

Michael Wallace has surfed for over two decades on the East and West coasts, Hawaii, Europe and NorCal. Currently a resident of Moss Beach with his family of four, he can often be found haunting the beaches south of Devil’s Slide in search of the perfect sandbar with his blind dog, Moose. In his spare time, Mike is dedicated to freelance surf journalism, surf coaching and surfboard design under his “Iconoclast” label.

“mike gerhardt, one of Jay’s best friends, brought me a bunch of stickers recently that said: ‘never forget Jay!’ and i

said, ‘mike, What do i need those for? i’ll never forget Jay.’”Jeff clark, Mavericks leGend

An inscription on a rock at Mavericks pays tribute to a legend. photo by lars howlett Jay Moriarity waxes up his board prior to heading out to Pillar Point. photo by doug acton


kelly slater returns to mavs

our exclusive intervieWWith 10-time asp surf champ kelly slater

q: Congrats on your 10th ASP world title. What does the win mean at this point in your career?

I think it means I’ve done pretty good. I’ve defi nitely pulled something off that’s going to be diffi cult for the next guy to do. But I don’t think it’s impossible, because I’ve done it. But it’s going to be awhile before someone is in that position again. That’s a nice feeling. I guess what it means for my career is that I can probably relax a little bit now and just think about what I want to do next. I don’t know if I’m going to keep competing full time or I’m going to pull back a little bit.

q: I hear you’re turning your attention to big-wave surfi ng and you’ve been invited to compete in this

year’s Mavericks competition. What brings you back to surf the monster waves at Mavericks after a decade?

The challenge, I guess. I see all my friends up there, catching big waves and charging, so I want to take part too. Mavericks is an intense wave, a huge challenge, and it’s very dangerous. For some reason, that’s all inviting … I don’t know why. Having a challenge laid out in front of you like that, it’s sort of too much to not go and take part in.

q: Grant Washburn recalled surfi ng Mavericks with you about 10 years ago. He said Mavericks made

a dramatic impression on you. Do you remember your initial experience watching Mavericks break from the water?

I surfed the place three times and two of the times I got into really bad, tricky situations. Chances are, when you surf there, you’re going to take a good beating and have to hold your breath a long time and be ready for the unpredictable.

My fi rst experience there was actually a small day. I got invited to surf the contest back in the winter of 1999-2000 — I think it was November. They said you have to come surf a swell here before you can surf the contest.

There was a little swell one day, so I ran up there to surf. It was pretty small for Mavericks, and there were just a few waves on the bowl outside on the takeoff. I ended up getting caught inside by the biggest set that came that day (and) that didn’t seem like a huge set. I spun around on the fi rst wave and caught it and jumped off. And then the next wave behind it caught me inside and that one just beat me down. I’d been surfi ng for like three hours and I was pretty tired. It kind of caught me off guard and had its way with me.

What astounded me was that it wasn’t a very big day, and even that wave didn’t seem to be a very big wave itself, but it just had so much power in it. But, you know, I caught a few

waves, and, after that happened, I caught another wave or two and then fi nished my session. Then I came back for the contest about three months after that — I think it was March 1. In fact, my grandmother passed away just the day before that.

q: Did that change the way you competed?I had her in my mind and was thinking about her,

and I was actually very sick the day before the contest. I just got sort of healthy enough just to surf that morning and decided to surf the contest, which was pretty exciting.

q: The new contest organizers are naming the contest in honor of Jay Moriarity with whom you competed in

2000. What memories do you have of surfi ng with him back then?

I just surfed with Jay a couple times. When he was about 16

q&a

considered the best surfer of his time, Kelly Slater is pondering a change of course following his 10th

Association of Surfi ng Professionals world title in early November. The 38-year-old might slow down in the near future — but not before he gears up to surf Mavericks this winter.

Slater was a kid when he fi rst hopped on a surfboard near his home in Cocoa Beach, Fla. He joined the pro ranks in the 1990s, and, at 21, he was the youngest surfer to win the world title. With his most recent win, he is also the oldest athlete to win the ASP world champion. Surfl ine magazine credits Slater with turning surf stars into professional athletes: He has a foundation that advocates for a number of charities. He jammed with Ben Harper to produce an album of surf music, co-wrote two books and collaborated on fi lms. His Hollywood looks have afforded him modeling opportunities and appearances on television shows like “Baywatch,” and he’s even designed his own video game.

When Half Moon Bay Surf Group announced the lineup for this year’s contest, Slater’s name confi rmed long-running rumors of his return to Mavericks. In 2000 Slater walked away with second place, after a mere practice session a couple of months prior. During that contest, Slater surfed aside Jay Moriarity, the namesake for this year’s contest.

The Review’s Lily Bixler caught Slater on the phone to hear about his fi rst encounters with Mavericks, surfi ng with Moriarity and his thoughts on what defi nes the iconic, local surf spot.

Interview by Lily Bixler

Continued on t 14

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the jay at mavericksthe jay at mavericks

years old, he caught that huge crazy one that he wiped out on at Mavericks. It was a cover shot on one of the magazines. I sent him a fax that said, “Jay, you’re my hero.” It was so incredible to watch somebody just take off on a wave like that and put themselves in that situation. Still, to this day, I think that’s the most impressive wipeout anyone has had at Mavericks. You know, he just charged. He had such a great style. He looked so set on his board when he stood up. His surfi ng really meshed Mavericks and his approach too.

q: Having surfed all over the world, in scores of different contests

and in various conditions, what defi nes Mavericks?

It’s huge and it’s cold. And there have been shark attacks there, and there are rocks in the way… there’s really nothing missing, except coral. But you got enough rocks. It’s deep, but it’s shallow, and it’s a barrel, but it’s kind of mushy. It starts to barrel but then it pinches, and the wave builds back up … it never really uses all of its energy until the wave is fi nished. It’s just intense.

q: Is it one of your favorite spots? Do you like riding the wave?

I like riding the wave, but I don’t know that I’d call it one of my favorite spots because I’ve only ever surfed the place three times. But it’s defi nitely one of the most challenging waves I’ve ever surfed.

q: There’s been a lot of talk about who “owns” Mavericks

— from contest organizers, to surfers, to sponsors, to the community. What ultimately gives someone the right to ride the wave?

Gosh, I don’t know. What gives people the right to own land? Who knows? I think the obvious answer is the guys who surf there and create the action should in some way have the fi rst dibs on creating the event. You know, guys who are willing to put their lives on the line to surf the place should have fi rst say in how the contest is run and who gets to run it. Besides that, it’s gonna be whoever puts the money up and makes the best situation. Whether it’s creating the best webcast or the biggest purse. At that point you need a group of people on all sides of the equation to help make those decisions.

Continued from t 10

theevent

e

e

ed

MAVERICKS

pillar point harbor

air force base

ross's cove

romeo pier

airport

this area to be closed to viewing

el granada

princeton

to half moon bayto san francisco

updated details and info aBout the contest found at thejayatmavericks.com

Where to Watch?Unlike years past, “no viewing will be allowed on the bluffs,” or anywhere near the beach, said contest organizer Katherine Kelly Clark. The competition will be broadcast live over the Web in high defi nition. Contest organizers encourage fans to watch the contest at home or at local establishments, like Old Princeton Landing, Mezza Luna, American Legion, Half Moon Bay Brewing Co., Crab Landing, the Oceano Hotel and Spa, Ketch Joanne’s Harbor Bar and Sam’s Chowder House. Also, Jeff Clark’s Mavericks Surf Shop at the harbor will serve as the headquarters of the contest, a go-to spot for information. Look out for a viewing festival along the Capistrano Road commercial strip.

Where to park?Princeton will be closed to non-authorized, non-resident traffi c at Airport Street and Prospect Way. There will be parking at the airport, as in years passed, but no shuttles will run to the beach. Other closures include the north end of Capistrano Road. Enter Capistrano through the south end at the signal, contest organizers say.

need more info?The Half Moon Bay Surf Group will be updating its Web site thejayatmavericks.com and Mavericks Surf Shop at the harbor will have up-to-date information.

fWhen is the

contest?Organizers monitor the swells

and call the competition, giving participants and spectators

roughly 48-hours notice at any point during the contest window, which runs from Dec. 1 through

Feb. 28. The Review will post news as soon as we hear any word —

check hmbreview.com for updates.The location for public awards

ceremony has not yet been determined.

lars how

lett

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