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The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco
Naturetrek Tour Report 19 May - 2 June 2017
Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK
T: +44 (0)1962 733051
E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk
Report compiled by Niki Williamson
Images courtesy of Simon Tonkin & Niki Williamson
Common Bulbul by Simon Tonkin
High Atlas plant by Niki Williamson
Moussier’s Redstart by Simon Tonkin
Tour Report The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco
© Naturetrek July 17 1
Tour participants: Simon Tonkin (leader) & Mohammed Zaki (local guide) with three Naturetrek clients
Summary
A thrilling trek through the breathtaking scenery and fascinating Berber culture of Morocco’s High Atlas
Mountains. It brought us close to the outstanding mountain bird species that the area has to offer, including
Moussier’s Redstart, Black and Black-eared Wheatears, Tristram’s Warbler, Woodlark, Horned and Thekla Larks,
Blue and Common Rock Thrushes, Alpine and Red-billed Choughs, and Atlas Long-Legged Buzzard – not to
mention the eye-poppingly gorgeous Crimson-winged Finch and Seebohm’s Wheatear, which alone were worth
the walk! Butterfly highlights included Queen of Spain and Dark Green Fritillaries, Moroccan Marbled White
and the endemic Vaucher’s Heath. And we loved our encounters with Barbary Ground Squirrels, Agama Lizards
and Day Geckos. All of this was against a stunning backdrop of fascinating specialist flora, some of which is
found nowhere else on earth.
Day 1 Friday 19th May
Simon, Mohammed and Niki met Carmen and Sarah from their early evening flights into Marrakech’s shiny new
airport, and we made our way to our charming riad accommodation near the centre of the medina (old town).
Even as we checked in, chirruping House Buntings greeted us from the open courtyard of the hotel, boding well
for the trip to come.
After settling in we were soon enjoying our dinner - a selection of salads and tagines served on the riad's
delightful rooftop terrace with its views over the city. As we ate, the traditional sunset call to prayer rang out
from Marrakech’s famous Koutoubia Mosque.
Group members were tired after their day of travelling (Carmen having journeyed all the way from Minnesota!)
so after a soothing serving of mint tea and a debate on organic farming, we retreated to our rooms to gather our
energy for the next day’s adventures.
Day 2 Saturday 20th May
We took breakfast as clouds of Pallid and Little Swifts swirled around the rooftop terrace and House Buntings
entertained us with their antics. Mohammed headed out to get supplies for our trek, leaving us to a free day in
Marrakesh. After a leisurely hour watching over the cityscape, spotting Honey Buzzard, Booted Eagle and Lesser
Kestrel amongst the flocks, we headed out to explore the exquisite architecture and bustling souks (markets) of
the medina.
On the way we visited a thriving colony of Little Swifts, consisting of dozens of carefully-built fluffy nests under
archways above a café. We enjoyed watching them whizz in and out, weaving through the arches with great aerial
skill.
We enjoyed seeing Common Bulbul and House Bunting around the gardens of the stunning sandstone
Koutoubia mosque with its archetypal architectural style, before plunging back into the narrow streets of the old
town.
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
2 © Naturetrek July 17
There is much of interest to see in the medina itself and after an interesting chat with an herb-seller in the market
about local plant varieties, we headed off from the bustling main square, Djemaa el-Fna. We visited the ancient
Mouassine fountain with its 500-year-old carved woodwork and resident Little Swifts, and admired the funduqs,
which were once lodgings for desert traders visiting the souks.
After refreshing ourselves with a cold drink, we carried on to admire the intricate wood and stucco decorations
and peaceful ambience of the Quranic school at the Ali ben Youssef Medersa. On the way our senses were
bombarded by the sights, sounds and smells of the souks, with a myriad of tiny artisan shops selling everything
from spices, tapestries and leather-craft through to detailed metal works. From a starting point of not being that
interested in shopping, we ended up nearly buying the kitchen sink - a beautifully sculpted brass one!
As the heat of the day started to get the better of us, we retired for a relaxed afternoon siesta before rejoining
Mohammed and visiting one of his favourite local restaurants for dinner.
Day 3 Sunday 21st May
Exciting as it had been, it was now time to escape the heat and bustle of Marrakech and begin our trek. The two-
hour drive flew by as we climbed through forested hillsides, picking up some supplies in Tahnout before meeting
our muleteers in the leafy, tranquil village of Asni. Here, over our picnic under the walnut trees, we got great
close-up views of African Chaffinch and Spotted Flycatcher, as well as seeing two Bonelli’s Eagles being mobbed
by an extremely brave Lesser Kestrel.
From here we set off across the river and began our trek up through the hills of Imi Ighoulad, where we soon
started to see mountain birds as well as fascinating flora. We found Moussier’s Redstart and Rock Bunting
almost immediately, and got another stunning view of the Lesser Kestrel’s ongoing battle with the pair of
Bonelli’s Eagles.
Prickly Juniper Juniperus oxycedrus, Phoenician Juniper Juniperus phoenicia and Holm Oak Quercus ilex scrub
dominated the landscape at this altitude, interspersed with a rich ground flora reminiscent of Mediterranean
maquis: blue Globularia alypum and pink Mallow-leaved Bindweed Convolvulus althaeoides grew alongside plants
exclusive to the region, such as the eye-catching purple daisy Rhodanthemum gayanum. We had great views of an
Oscillated Lizard posed atop a boulder, surveying the view.
Moving on over a high pass, we got a brief glimpse of a Sylvia warbler – could it have been the Tristram’s
Warbler that we thought we heard calling earlier? We paused a while at the high pass Tizi ‘n Bour to soak up
more eye-popping views of Moussier’s Redstarts.
As the call to prayer echoed down the valley, we started our descent towards the red-earth Berber village of
Imsker, our camp for the night. On the scree slopes on the way down, we had heart-stopping views of both
Black and Black-eared Wheatears, as well as encounters with some of the area’s fascinating Lepidoptera,
including False Ilex Hairstreak and Lang’s Short-tailed Blue butterflies.
We arrived to find our camp set up by a stream, and spent a pleasant afternoon watching Common Bulbul, Grey
Wagtail and Spotted Flycatcher. Just as we sat down to complete the list for the day, what should fly in but a
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
© Naturetrek July 17 3
Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker! Perching tantalisingly on a rock for only the briefest of seconds, we barely had
time to get our binoculars up before it was off; whetting our appetite for the following day.
Day 4 Monday 22nd May
Camp life starts early, and today we breakfasted at 7am amidst the sounds of the stream and the mournful
laughing calls of Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker. Setting off, we ascended quickly through rocky slopes, whose
vegetation included Fan Palm Chamaerops humilis var. glauca and the beautiful endemic Salvia taraxacifolia, with its
characterisitic aromatic dandelion-like leaves and pretty mint-like pale purple flowers. Coal Tit, Moussier’s
Redstart and Rock Bunting were numerous now, giving many superb photographic opportunities and making
speedy progress difficult! Barbary Partridge called from the slopes and Black and Black-eared Wheatears
surveyed us from rocky perches.
We took lunch – delicious salads and couscous expertly prepared by our muleteer and chef (also called
Mohammed) - and an afternoon snooze in a shady woodland between villages, where Western Bonelli’s Warbler
sang. Continuing on through fertile terraced valleys, Melodious Warbler, African Blue Tit and Serin were
abundant. Again we were impressed by the numerous butterflies, including Wall Brown, Moroccan Marbled
White and the stunning Queen of Spain Fritillary, flitting through the valleys lined with the bright yellow flowers
of endemic Adenocarpus anagyrifolius.
On the final ascent to our cosy gîte lodgings in the village of Gliz, we were treated to superb views of an
exquisite adult male Blue Rock Thrush, and our first encounter with a cute Barbary Ground Squirrel, busily
munching wheat.
Relaxing before dinner, we had a couple more ornithological treats in the form of singing Corn Bunting amongst
the farmland and a showy male Subalpine Warbler doing the rounds of his territory.
Day 5 Tuesday 23rd May
Today was to be a big day of climbing, and we started our ascent from Gliz with African Magpie and Moussier’s
Redstart to send us on our way. As we climbed through the Spanish Junipers we paused to admire the gnarled
girth of these ancient trees, which are some of the oldest on the planet. They were hosting some great bird
species and we had superb views of Coal Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper and Firecrest as we climbed.
The scree slopes were inhabited by fascinating endemic plants such as Alyssum spinosum with its intricate ‘rabbit-
fence’ of spines and delicate pink flowers, as well as spiky hummocks of Astragalus ibrahimianus and hedgehog-like
mounds of the yellow-flowered Cytisus balansae.
The diversity of Lepidoptera in this harsh environment was astounding, and we added Heath and Dark Green
Fritillaries, Clouded and Berger’s Clouded Yellows, Dark Giant Grayling, Cleopatra and Humming-bird Hawk-
moth to our list.
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
4 © Naturetrek July 17
The morning flew by and we barely noticed the steep climb up 2600 metres Tizi n’Oukaimeden, passing
Common (previously called Rufous-tailed) Rock Thrush and Booted Eagle on the way, and enjoying views of the
distant Jebel Toubkal, its slopes patched with snow.
We soon arrived at the ski resort high in the mountains. The resort is built next to a group of traditional Berber
buildings, which lie empty during the winter but are shared by local villagers when they bring their livestock up
to the high pastures in spring. The gorgeous flower-rich meadows were splashed with Robust Marsh Orchids
Dactylorhiza elata, and home to a fantastic array of birds. As we approached, we had our first sights of the
stunning Seebohm’s Wheatear and Horned Lark within metres of each other. Throughout the traditional
smallholdings, Rock Sparrow, Black Redstart, Serin, Corn Bunting and extraordinarily claret-breasted Common
Linnet abounded. On the pastures, large flocks of Red-billed Chough were feeding, occasionally spiraling up into
a noisy vortex of 150+ birds.
After lunch and a rest, we wandered out across the verdant valley to visit some nearby Bronze Age rock
paintings, depicting animals and weapons. Passing a large reservoir splashed with Thread-leaved Water Crowfoot
Ranunculus trichophyllus, we enjoyed watching an Atlas Long-legged Buzzard repeatedly taking some of the very
numerous frogs from its waters.
Dinner was again delicious – an egg and vegetable tagine in which the egg is added right at the end to give a
delicious soft consistency – followed by fresh oranges laced with cinnamon.
Day 6 Wednesday 24th May
Today we reached high altitude, climbing up steadily to 2960 metres at Tizi n’Adidi pass. And what a journey of
delights! Seebohm’s Wheatears now vied with Moussier’s Redstarts for most handsome bird of the day, treating
us to countless superb views at the side of the path. As well as the now-familiar Rock Sparrow and Red-billed
Chough, we added a great view of a calling male Barbary Partridge, a singing Woodlark and a fiercely-scowling
Little Owl. A Sparrowhawk catching a Linnet mid-flight provided a rather gory additional highlight.
Mohammed told us he had seen one of our star species, Crimson-winged Finch, flitting round a rock face. This
would surely be the furthest some of us had ever walked for a lifer, so we spent some time looking and with a
little patience, we got fantastic close views of a perched male on a rock and several others on the track. Their
wings resplendent in pink, they really were gorgeous birds and a real highlight to the day.
The elusive Tristram’s Warbler was finally seen and heard by Simon, but unfortunately evaded the rest of the
group for now. However an unexpected Spectacled Warbler bumped up the Sylvia list very nicely. Sunbathing
Day Geckos caught our eyes on nearby rocks, and the butterfly list continued to grow with pretty Moroccan
Orange Tip, and Aetherie and Glanville Fritillaries.
Reaching the highest point of our trek, we celebrated with a ‘Team Atlas’ selfie before descending to where we
could see the muleteers already preparing our lunch. We ate our Moroccan salad and fresh flatbread in a
spectacularly scenic spot overlooking Jebel Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak. What a perfect backdrop to
enjoy the surrounding mountain birds, which included Northern Raven, Blue and Common Rock Thrushes,
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
© Naturetrek July 17 5
Horned and Thekla Larks, Black Redstart, Crag Martin, (probable) genuine Rock Dove and a superb Atlas Long-
legged Buzzard.
Descending again to our next campsite, we enjoyed spectacular views out across the valleys and peaks of the
High Atlas. A view of two Black-bellied Dippers for some of the group rounded off the day, and we settled in to
enjoy the sunset over picturesque Tamguist, the highest village in the mountain range, and the incredible starlit
sky.
Day 7 Thursday 25th May
After being awoken gently by calling Common Quail and singing Serin, we emerged from a good night’s sleep to
our customary breakfast of breads, cheeses, honey and spreads, but today with the added excited of fresh
messamen bread from the camp kitchen. These delicious pancake-style fried breads set us up a treat for what was
to be a long but relatively relaxed hike. While packing up camp, we took a break to admire a distant flock of
Alpine Chough and an African Blue Tit busily feeding its chicks in a hole in the building.
On the trail up to Tizi n’Tamatart pass we passed through cherry tree-lined lanes, where we spotted Mazarine
Blue and Lang’s Short-tailed Blue butterflies. Heading out onto the scree slopes once more, we observed many
Woad Isatis tinctoria plants and the silver rosettes of the endemic Thistle Cirsium dyris. We bemoaned the planting
of non-native pine trees in this precious botanical area. Ranks of them have been installed to try and prevent the
erosion caused by persistent over-grazing in the area, and they are ridden with Pine Processionary Moth cocoons.
The native birds seemed considerably less averse to them than we were however, and they provided welcome
perches for Black Wheatear, Moussier’s Redstart and Rock Bunting.
The morning gave Sarah the up-close views of Firecrest that she had wanted, and an opportunity to enjoy the
clamourous singing of a showy Melodious Warbler. Raptors included a solitary pale-morph Booted Eagle, a
Common Kestrel and excellent views of a very crisp-looking Atlas Long-legged Buzzard.
We paused briefly for our daily portion of Mohammed’s Moroccan Trekking Mega-mix, consisting of almonds,
dates, honey-and-sesame coated peanuts, figs and caraway flavoured biscuits, before descending through a Stone
Pine forest. Here there were extraordinary numbers of Spotted Flycatcher, Coal Tit and Firecrest – and, oddly, a
random European Nightjar which churred briefly, presumably due to being rudely awoken by trekkers.
Alpine Choughs were becoming more and more numerous, with large chatty flocks moving around the slopes of
the surrounding valleys. Arriving at the upper slopes of the village we soon realised why. It was cherry season
and they were ripe for the picking! We spent a while watching these clever, gregarious birds, swirling through the
air with their stolen prizes.
We wended our way through the village of Aramd to our wonderful accommodation – a lovely little gîte with a
sit-down loo and hot showers! It was located at the end of the village, giving an incredible uninterrupted view
over the river and mountains.
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
6 © Naturetrek July 17
After savouring our afternoon mint tea and biscuits, we enjoyed birding from the balcony, bringing us House
Bunting, Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher, Alpine Chough, Black-bellied Dipper and Grey
Wagtail.
Day 8 Friday 26th May
Another fine sunny day greeted us as we awoke from a superb night’s sleep in our comfortable gîte. Today we
would explore the valley, with a view to reaching the Berber shrine of Sidi Chamharouch at its heart. Spirits are
believed to dwell under the rock here, and the faithful from far and wide come to spend the night in its tiny
mosque, in the hope that their ailments will be cured. Although we were not allowed to enter it, we spent a
wonderful half hour by the stream that flows past it, watching boisterous groups of Alpine Chough come and go,
and all agreed that the aching in our feet felt a little relieved as a result!
Levaillant’s Green Woodpeckers were heard again and a couple of Black-bellied Dippers flitted up and down the
stream as it tumbled over the rocks. The walk also featured our best encounter yet with a Moussier’s Redstart,
relaxing in the shade of a Spanish Juniper just feet away from us and seemingly unwilling to move! Moroccan
Copper and Atlas Blue butterflies frequented puddles on the path and among the colourful Kidney Vetch
Anthyllis vulneraria subsp. maura and orange pimpernel Anagallis monelli.
Food cooked on the trail had been excellent throughout, but give chef Mohammed a proper kitchen and he
absolutely excels himself! Tonight’s dinner was a succulent chicken tagine with prunes and olives, accompanied
by freshly fried and very welcome chips – delicious!
Day 9 Saturday 27th May
After a last scan from the gîte’s balcony of the beautiful river valley spreading out below us (and a final visit to
the splendid sit-down loo!) we said goodbye to our hosts and hit the trail once again. Today was the first day of
Ramadan, so we set off early to spare guide Mohammed and the team of muleteers the worst of the day’s heat, as
they wouldn’t be able to eat or drink again until sundown.
The first part of the day was a fairly tough climb up to Tizi Mzic pass at 2484 metres, but we were entertained on
the way by Alpine and Red-billed Choughs, Barbary Partridge and Agama lizard. On viewing a Woodchat Shrike,
Mohammed explained that the Berber name translates as ‘bird with a red turban’ which we all liked better! As we
climbed, the slopes around were adorned with endemic Pterocephalus depressus and its pretty scabious-like flowers.
Reaching the pass, we rather sheepishly ate our freshly prepared salad while the Moroccan team carried out their
prayers and relaxed in the shade of the Spanish Junipers. African Magpie and Coal Tit vied for bits of our
leftovers while Firecrest and Short-toed Treecreeper called all around us. A lone second-calendar-year Booted
Eagle was again in evidence. It seems this area is a favoured hangout for non-breeders who have opted not to
journey north.
The second, much easier, part of the day saw us descend steadily to our campsite at 2000 metres, but not before
encountering Blue Rock Thrush, more Barbary Partridges, stunning close-ups of a Black Redstart and a lone
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
© Naturetrek July 17 7
female Tristram’s Warbler. Today’s Moussier’s Redstart count was 37; or roughly one every 250 metres! They
included several immaculate, confiding individuals, ripe for photographing.
We arrived at camp by a fresh, rushing stream of meltwater, in time to watch soft white clouds flood the valley as
the evening drew in.
Day 10 Sunday 28th May
A relaxed start to the day saw us heading out from breakfast around 8.30am, up through terraced farmland
growing barley, beans and sweetcorn. As we walked past Black Redstart, Coal Tit and the ever-present Serin, we
could already see our destination – a spectacular waterfall around 700 metres up from our base.
Arriving mid-morning, we relaxed around the pools at its base, finding white Aquilegia vulgaris var. ballii, Alpine
Rock Cress Arabis alpina and the endemic Ivy-leaved Whitlowgrass Draba hederifolia in the nooks and crannies
around it.
The gorge was a haven for nesting birds, and we passed some time watching Crag and House Martins on the
wing and observing the different feeding habitats and nest site choices of Alpine and Red-billed Choughs.
Sarah chose to rest here a little longer while the rest of us pushed on up the steep track to the top of the
waterfall, at around 2800 metres. Vegetation changed dramatically here and we found the endemic Vaucher’s
Heath butterfly foraging among the thorny cushion plants. The pink-flowered Alyssum spinosum was further
adorned by dainty purple flowers of Veronica repens peeping through its thorns, presumably seeking refuge from
grazing animals.
A couple of Mistle Thrushes spiced up our return to camp, where we refreshed ourselves with a well-earned mint
tea after our hike - a climb equivalent to ascending Snowdon. As we relaxed before dinner, an adult Golden
Eagle soared calling overhead, completing our day.
Day 11 Monday 29th May
All too soon it was time to begin our descent out of the mountains, starting with a stroll down through some of
the many Berber villages that cling to the sides of the area’s valleys. The terraces here were fantastic for birds
with Rock Bunting, House Sparrow and Subalpine Warbler feeding side-by-side.
Lunch was in a shady glade, watching the antics of African Chaffinches, and while Mohammed snoozed, Sarah
gave us and the muleteers an origami bird masterclass!
After lunch the way was increasingly shaded as we left the high pastures and terraces and entered the forested
lower slopes, where areas of native woodland blended with walnut and cherry orchards. The highlight of the
day’s walk was undoubtedly a male Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker which came in response to Mohammed’s
speculative mimicking whistles, and sat stock still in full view for fully ten minutes while we enjoyed views of its
pale eye, red cap and black moustache.
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
8 © Naturetrek July 17
We camped in a shady copse just outside the village of Tizian, and provided a great source of entertainment for
the local kids who were excited to practice their French and English!
Day 12 Tuesday 30th May
Today we crossed our final pass from the mountains back towards the lowlands, initially following the road out
of Tizian, up through the terraced agricultural areas where women were harvesting triticale by hand into large
bundles. This low intensity farming was attracting a lot of attention from Black Wheatear, Rock Bunting, Cirl
Bunting and Rock Sparrow, and we enjoyed watching them while we exchanged pleasantries with the hard-
working women. The land here was slightly less overgrazed on places, allowing Sedums, wild Chicory and
colourful Tolpis barbata to flourish amongst the grasses.
We ate our simple but delicious lunch of cheese-stuffed tomatoes and rice with stir-fried carrots and courgettes
at the pass. Here the woodland was thicker and made up of Holm Oak, Carob and Prickly Juniper. We wended
our way down the pass through this landscape, enjoying Moussier’s Redstart and Subalpine Warbler as we went.
Some of the best birding of the day was at the campsite high above the village, where we could look down on the
wooded valley floor and across at the mountain slopes. As the afternoon wore on we watched many Common
Bulbuls, Spotted Flycatchers, African Chaffinches and African Blue Tits in the treetops. Even better was a close
view of an algeriensis Great Grey Shrike and a male Hawfinch in the same tree, a House Bunting singing its heart
out on a nearby building, and a dramatic scene involving a female Bonelli’s Eagle pursuing Wood Pigeons, only
to be attacked in turn by a Kestrel and a Barbary Falcon!
Day 13 Wednesday 31st May
After a peaceful night relaxing to the sounds of Tawny Owl and European Nightjar, this morning saw our trek
end with a brief decent through the picturesque village to meet our vehicle, picking up Golden Oriole and
Hawfinch on the way.
We said goodbye to the wonderful, cheery, hard-working muleteers and made our way back to Marrakech to
drop off the gear, then through the arid landscape of north-western Morocco to our next base at the coastal
town of Essaouira.
Rebuilt during the days of the French Protectorate in the 1800s, this wonderful sleepy town is where Moroccan
medina charm meets Brittany coastal resort, and we enjoyed the late afternoon exploring it before dinner.
Day 14 Thursday 1st June
Today we spent the morning further exploring the charming shabby chic of Essaouira, the aptly nicknamed
‘Windy City’, enjoying the House Buntings, Pallid Swifts and Barn Swallows that surrounded us.
After a delicious falafel lunch, we walked down to the harbor to investigate the thriving local fish market. Among
the fresh catches and lively bartering, we were able to get superb close views of Yellow-legged Gulls of all age
classes, feeding on fish discards. Many more were sat in the sandy cove of an offshore island, and amongst them
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
© Naturetrek July 17 9
we found Lesser Black-backed Gull and Audouin’s Gull. Also feeding amongst the rocks and along the beach
were handsome summer-plumage Ruddy Turnstones, Little Terns and Common Ringed Plovers. We had distant
views of Eleanora’s Falcons, 1,300 of which breed on the Île de Mogador just offshore.
We rounded off the day with a little more shopping and a buffet-style dinner in our beautifully decorated riad.
Day 15 Friday 2nd June
It was time to say goodbye to Morocco and head back to Marrakech airport, but en route we had a couple more
treats in store. Pausing upstream from Essaouira where the river Oued Ksob starts to widen into an estuary, we
arrived just in time for bath time! This is the area where every day the area’s beautiful chocolate-brown
Eleonora’s Falcons come to bathe and drink fresh water. We were lucky enough to encounter several of these
elegant raptors at close hand as they completed their morning ablutions, as well as Sardinian Warbler, Common
Bulbul and a smart male subpersonata White Wagtail, a Moroccan endemic subspecies.
Between Essaouira and Marrakech we made a stop at a business where local women have formed a co-operative
producing Argan oil. This fashionable luxury nut oil is highly sought after for both its culinary and cosmetic uses.
After taking a tour of the workshop where the oil is extracted and processed by hand, we were able to taste the
oil and sample the cosmetics, and of course buy some products from this worthy enterprise to take home to our
waiting families and friends.
With that, it was on to the airport to say our goodbyes and take home our tales and memories of the culture,
scenery and wildlife we had encountered during our fantastic trekking adventure.
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Tour Report The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco
© Naturetrek July 17 1
Species Lists
Birds (=recorded but not counted; H = heard only; * = Endemic; ad = adult; + = more than; C = about)
May/June
Common name Latin name 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2
1 Barbary Partridge Alectoris barbara 4+ 3+ 10+ 2 2 5 1 1 1
2 Common Quail Coturnix coturnix 3+ 3
3 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 10
4 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 8+
5 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 2 1
6 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 1 1
7 North African Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo maroccanus 20+
8 European Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus 1
9 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus 1 1 1 2+ 1 1 1 2
10 Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos 1ad
11 Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata 2+ 2+ 1
12 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus 1+ 1 1 1
13 Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus 1 1 1
14 Common Coot Fulica atra 2
15 Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus 2
16 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula 10+
17 Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
18 Audouin’s Gull Larus audouinii 1
19 Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus 1
20 Little Tern Sternula albifrons 30+
21 Rock Dove Columba livia 4+ 2 3 5+ 3+ 3+ c.5
21a Feral Pigeon Columba livia domestica
22 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus 20+ 10+ 2 5+ 5+ 2 4+ 6 8 2
23 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
24 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus 1
25 Barn Owl Tyto alba 1
26 Little Owl Athene noctua 1 1
27 European Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus 1H 2
29 Pallid Swift Apus pallidus
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
2 © Naturetrek July 17
May/June
Common name Latin name 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2
30 Little Swift Apus affinis
31 White-rumped Swift Apus caffer 2+
32 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major 2 3 3+ 2
33 Levaillant's Woodpecker * Picus vaillantii 1 3+ 1+ 3 2 1 4 2 1
34 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 2+ 1+ 2 5+ 5+ 4+ 2 3 2 1 5 2 2
35 Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni 1 6+ 1
36 Eleonora's Falcon Falco eleonorae 8+ 20+
37 Barbary Falcon Falco pelegrinoides 1
38 Great Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor 3 2
39 Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator 1 1 1
40 Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 1
41 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius 1 4+
42 African Magpie * Pica pica mauritanica 1+ 1 15+ 15+ 10+ 4 3 10+
43 Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax 200+ 30+ 20+ 10+ 20+ 20+ 27 c.5
44 Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus 6 c.250 100+ 150+ 70+ 40+
45 Northern Raven Corvus corax 1+ 3+ 2+ 3
46 Coal Tit Periparus ater 1+ 10+ 10+ 3+ 10+ 20+ 5+ 20+
47 African Blue Tit Cyanistes teneriffae 1H 6+ 3+ 1+ 2 4 3 2 5+ 6 2 2
48 Great Tit Parus major 4+ 10+ 1 10+ 15+ 10+ 2+ 10+
49 Woodlark Lullula arborea 1 4+ 15+ 1
50 Thekla Lark Galerida theklae 5+ 1
51 Crested Lark Galerida cristata 2
52 Horned Lark Eremophila alpestris 6+ 20+
53 Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus 3+ 1 2 3 1 3 3
54 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 5+ 3
55 Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris 6 2+ 4+ 10+ 5+ 2
56 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum 1 4 2
57 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica 2+ 15+ 30+ 10+ 30+ 10+ 10+ 15+ 20+
58 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti 3+ 1+ 1 1 1 1
59 Western Bonelli's Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli 1H 1 1 1 3+
60 Melodious Warbler Hippolais polyglotta 2+ 3+ 4+ 2 1 3 2+
61 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
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May/June
Common name Latin name 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2
62 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 20+ 10+ 2 10+ 3+ 3+ 15+ 10+ 1+
63 Tristram's Warbler Sylvia deserticola 1
64 Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata 1+
65 Western Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans inornata 2 1 1 2+ 15+ 2
66 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala 2H 5+
67 Common Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla 4+ 15+ 30+ 5+ 10+ 20+ 2
68 Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes 3+ 3+ 2+ 4+ 7+ 8 3+ 5+ 10+ 2+
69 Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla 5+ 1 10+ 1+ 1 3+ 3+
70 Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
71 Common Blackbird Turdus merula
72 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus 6 2 2 3+
73 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 3+ 5+ 10+ 50+ 10+ 2 8+ 5+
74 European Robin Erithacus rubecula 2+ 2+ 2 3+ 2 1 10+ 4+ 2
75 Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos 2+ 1+ 1 1 1
76 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 15+ 20+ 10+ 5+ 12 c.10 5+ 2+
77 Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus 1 1
78 Moussier's Redstart * Phoenicurus moussieri 7+ 20+ 20+ 17 5+ 10+ 37 7 5+ c.15 2
79 Common Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis 1 1
80 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 1
81 Seebohm's Wheatear * Oenanthe oenanthe seebohmi 4+ 20+
82 Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica 1 2 2 1
83 Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura 2 2 4 3+ 2 1 3 5
84 Black-bellied Dipper Cinclus cinclus cinclus 2 1 1 2
85 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 10+
86 Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia 40+ 50+ 5+
87 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 2+ 2+ 2 5+ 2 3 2 4 4 5+ 2
88 Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris 1 2+
89 African Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
90 Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes 2 3
91 African Crimson-winged Finch Rhodopechys alienus c.20
92 European Greenfinch Chloris chloris 3+ 2+ 5+ 4 1 2 1+
93 Common Linnet Linaria cannabina 6+ 15+ 30+ 3
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May/June
Common name Latin name 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2
94 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis 10+ Y 10+ 2 6
95 European Serin Serinus serinus 1+ 30+ 50+ 30+ 50+
96 Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra 2 5+ 3+ 2+
97 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia 20+ 50+ 20+ 6 2 10+ 1 15+ 10+ 2+
98 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus 1H 3+ 2+
99 House Bunting Emberiza sahari 3 1 4 2 2 5+ 5+ 3+
Mammals
1 Barbary Ground Squirrel• Atlantoxerus getulus 1 4+ 3+ 1 1 2 4
2 Red Fox Vulpes vulpes 1
3 Egyptian Mongoose Herpestes ichneumon 1
Reptiles & Amphibians
1 Moorish Gecko Tarentola mauritanica 2 1
2 High Atlas Day Gecko• Quedenfeldtia trachyblepharus 1 5+ 1 2 2 2
3 Atlas Agama• Agama impalearis 1 1
4 Large Psammodromus Psammodromus algirus 1 1 2
5 Atlas Wall Lizard• Podarcis vaucheri 1 1 1+ 1+ 3+
6 Moroccan Eyed Lizard• Timon tangitanus 1 1
7 Moroccan Rock Lizard• Lacerta perspicillata subsp. chabanaudi 1 2+ 1 1+ 1+
8 Pool Frog Pelophylax lessonae 1
9 Mauritanian Toad Amietophrynus mauritanica 1
Butterflies
1 Large White Pieris brassicae
2 Small White• Pieris rapae mauretanica
3 Bath White Pontia daplidice
4 Moroccan Orange Tip Anthocharis belia
5 Clouded Yellow Colias crocea
6 Berger's Clouded Yellow Colias alfacariensis
7 Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni meridionalis
8 Cleopatra Gonepteryx cleopatra
9 False Ilex Hairstreak• Satyrium esculi mauretanica
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May/June
Common name Latin name 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2
10 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas
11 Moroccan Copper• Thersamonia phoebus
12 Long-tailed Blue Lampides boeticus
13 Lang's Short-tailed Blue Leptotes pirithous
14 Black-eyed Blue• Glaucopsyche melanops alluaudi
15 Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus
16 Mazarine Blue• Cyaniris semiargus maroccana
17 Atlas Blue• Plebicula atlantica atlantica
18 Common Blue Polyommatus icarus
19 Brown Argus Aricia agestis
20 Painted Lady Cynthia cardui
21 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta
22 Queen of Spain Fritillary Issoria lathonia
23 Aetherie Fritillary• Melitaea aetherie algirica
24 Glanville Fritillary• Melitaea cinxia atlantis ?
25 Moroccan Marbled White• Melanargia galathea lucasi
26 Dark Giant Grayling• Berberia lambessanus
27 Vaucher's Heath• Coenonympha vaucheri vaucheri
28 Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria
29 Wall Brown Lasiommata megera
30 Small Skipper Thymelicus sylvestris iberica
31 Southern Gatekeeper Pyronia cecilia
32 Dark Green Fritillary Argynnis aglaja
33 False Mallow Skipper Carcharodus tripolinus
Moths
1 Humming-bird Hawk-moth Macroglossum stellatarum
Others
1 Blue flash Cricket Oedipoda or Sphingonotus sp.
2 Water Scorpion Nepa cinerea
Tour Report The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco
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Plants
Latin name Common name
Aspleniaceae Spleenwort Family
Asplenium ceterach Rustyback
PINOPSIDA CONIFERS
Cupressaceae Cyprus Family
Cupressus atlanica• Atlantic Cypress
Cupressus sempervirens ‡ Italian Cypress
Juniperus oxycedrus subsp. oxycedrus Prickly Juniper
Juniperus phoenicia subsp. phoenicea Phoenician Juniper
Juniperus thurifera Spanish Juniper
Pinaceae Pine Family
Cedrus libani subsp. atlantica• Atlantic Cedar
Pinus pinea Stone Pine
MAGNOLIOPSIDA FLOWERING PLANTS
MAGNOLIIDAE DICOTYLEDONS
Apiaceae Carrot Family
Daucus carota Wild Carrot
Heracleum sphondylium
Araliaceae Ivy Family
Hedera helix subsp. maroccana• Ivy
Asteraceae Daisy Family
Achillea ligustica Southern Yarrow
Aliella ballii•
Aliella platyphylla•
Andryala maroccana•
Arctium minus Lesser Burdock
Calendula arvensis Field Marigold
Carlina corymbosa Flat-topped Carline Thistle
Catananche caerulea Cupidone
Catananche caespitosa•
Centaurea calcitrapa Red Star-thistle
Centaurea solstitalis Yellow Star-thistle
Cichorium intybus Chicory
Cirsium chrysacanthum• Yellow-spined Thistle
Cirsium dyris•
Echinops spinosus A Globe Thistle
Evax pygmaea
Glebionis segetum Corn Marigold
Lactuca serriola Prickly Lettuce
Rhodanthemum catananche•
Rhodanthemum depressum•
Rhodanthemum gayanum•
Silybum marianum Milk Thistle
Sonchus asper Prickly Sow-thistle
Sonchus oleraceus Smooth Sow-thistle
Tolpis barbata Tolpis
Tragopogon crocifolius
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
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Latin name Common name
Tragopogon dubius
Tragopogon pratensis Goat's-beard
Boraginaceae Borage Family
Borago officinalis Borage
Cynoglossum watieri•
Echium plantagineum Purple Viper's Bugloss
Erucaria hispanica Spanish Mustard
Myosotis atlantica• A Forget-me-not
Brassicaceae Cabbage Family
Aethionema saxatile subsp. latifolium Burnt Candytuft
Alyssum spinosum Spiny Alyssum
Arabis alpina subsp. alpina Alpine Rock Cress
Arabis verna Spring Rock Cress
Biscutella didyma Biscutella
Capsella bursa-pastoris Shepherd's Purse
Descurania sophia Flixweed
Draba hederifolia subsp. hederifolia• Ivy-leaved Whitlow Grass
Hirschfeldia incana Hoary Mustard
Isatis tinctoria subsp. tinctoria Woad
Nasturtium officinale Watercress
Cactaceae Cactus Family
Opuntia ficus-barbarica Prickly Pear
Campanulaceae Bellflower Family
Campanula sp. A Bellflower
Caprifoliaceae Honeysuckle Family
Sambucus nigra Elder
Caryophyllaceae Pink Family
Agrostemma githago Corncockle
Cerastium arvense Field Mouse-ear
Dianthus sylvestris Wood Pink
Paronychia argentea
Petrorhagia prolifera Proliferous Pink
Silene gallica Small-flowered Catchfly
Silene latifolia White Campion
Silene nutans Nottingham Catchfly
Silene vulgaris Bladder Campion
Stellaria media Common Chickweed
Chenopodiaceae Goosefoot Family
Chenopodium album Fat Hen
Cistaceae Rock Rose Family
Cistus creticus Cretan Cistus
Cistus crispus
Cistus salvifolius Sage-leaved Cistus
Tuberaria guttata Spotted Rockrose
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
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Latin name Common name
Convolvulaceae Bindweed Family
Convolvulus althaeoides Mallow-leaved Bindweeed
Convolvulus arvensis Field Bindweed
Convolvulus sabatius subsp. mauritanicus•
Cuscuta campestris Field Dodder
Ipomea purpurea A Morning Glory
Crassulaceae Stonecrop Family
Sedum acre Biting Stonecrop
Sedum album White Stonecrop
Cucurbitaceae White Bryony Family
Bryonia dioica White Bryony
Dipsacaceae Teasel Family
Pterocephalus depressus•
Scabiosa columbaria Small Scabious
Euphorbiaceae Spurge Family
Euphorbia characias Large Mediterranean Spurge
Euphorbia helioscopia Sun Spurge
Ricinus communis Castor-oil-plant
Fabaceae Pea Family
Adenocarpus anagyrifolius•
Anthyllis vulneraria subsp. maura Kidney Vetch
Astragalus ibrahimianus•
Astragalus sp. purple flowers
Ceratonia siliqua Carob
Genista cinerea poss diff spp
Hippocrepis multisiliquosa A Horseshoe Vetch
Medicago lupulina Black Medick
Ononis atlantica•
Robinia pseudoacacia‡ False Acacia
Scorpiurus muricatus Scorpiurus
Spartium junceum Spanish Broom
Trifolium repens White Clover
Trifolium stellatum Star Clover
Trifolium tomentosum Wooly Trefoil
Vicia cracca Tufted Vetch
Vicia hirsuta Hairy Tare
Vicia tenuifolia subsp. villosa Fodder Vetch
Fagaceae Beech Family
Quercus coccifera Kermes Oak
Quercus ilex Holm Oak
Fumariaceae Fumitory Family
Fumaria capreolata Pale Ramping Fumitory
Geraniaceae Crane's-bill Family
Erodium cicutarium Common Stork's-bill
Erodium malacoides Mallow-leaved Stork's-bill
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
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Latin name Common name
Geranium dissectum Cut-leaved Crane's-bill
Geranium molle Dove's-foot Crane's-bill
Geranium robertianum Herb Robert
Globulariaceae Globularia Family
Globularia alypum Shrubby Globularia
Grossulariaceae Currant Family
Ribes uva-crispa Gooseberry
Hypericaceae St John's-wort Family
Hypericum perforatum Perforate St John's-wort
Juglandaceae Walnut Family
Juglans regia‡ Walnut
Lamiaceae Dead-nettle Family
Lamium album White Dead-nettle
Lavandula pedunculata subsp. atlantica•
Marrubium vulgare White Horehound
Nepeta atlantica•
Origanum vulgare Marjoram
Prasium majus Prasium
Salvia taraxacifolia•
Salvia verbenaca Wild Clary
Satureja acinos Basil Thyme
Thymus atlanticus•
Thymus satureioides•
Malvaceae Mallow Family
Malva neglecta Dwarf Mallow
Malva sylvestris Common Mallow
Moraceae Fig Family
Ficus carica Fig
Oleaceae Olive Family
Fraxinus angustifolia Narrow-leaved Ash
Olea euopaea Wid Olive
Orobanchaceae Broomrape Family
Orobanche alsatica
Orobance minor Lesser Broomrape
Orobanche ramosa Branched Broomrape
Papaveraceae Poppy Family
Papaver rhoeas Common Poppy
Plantaginaceae Plantain Family
Plantago coronopus Buck's-horn Plantain
Plantago major Greater Plantain
The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report
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Latin name Common name
Plumbaginaceae Thrift family
Armeria alliacea• A Thrift
Armeria atlantica• A Thrift
Polygonaceae Dock Family
Polygonum aviculare Knotgrass
Polygonum bistorta Bistort
Rumex acetosa Common Sorrel
Rumex acetosella Sheep's Sorrel
Narrow-leaved Dock
Primulaceae Primrose Family
Anagallis monelli subsp.linifolia
Anagallis monelli subsp. monelli
Ranunculaceae Buttercup Family
Aquilegia vulgaris var. ballii• A Columbine
Ranunclus acris Meadow Buttercup
Ranunculus dyris •
Ranunculus repens Creeping Buttercup
Ranunculus trichophyllus Thread-leaved Water Crowfoot
Rhamnaceae Buckthorn Family
Rhamnus lycioides susp. atlantica•
Rosaceae Rose Family
Agrimonia eupatoria Agrimony
Potentilla recta
Rosa canina Dog-rose
Rosa sempervirens Evergreen Rose
Rubus ulmifolius Bramble
Rubiaceae Bedstraw Family
Galium aparine Cleavers
Galium lucidum Shining Bedstraw
Galium mollugo Hedge Bedstraw
Galium parisiense Wall Bedstraw
Salicaceae Willow Family
Populua alba White Poplar
Sapotaceae
Argania spinosa Argan
Scrophulariaceae Figwort Family
Veronica arvensis Field Speedwell
Veronica repens var. cyanea•
Solanaceae Nightshade Family
Hyocyamus albus White Henbane
Solanum nigrum Black Nightshade
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Latin name Common name
Tamaricaceae Tamarisk Family
Tamarix africana A Tamarisk
Thymelaeaceae Mezereon Family
Daphne gnidium subsp. mauritanica•
Valerianaceae Valerian Family
Centranthus angustifolius Narrow-leaved Valerian
LILIIDAE MONOCOTYLEDONS
Arecaceae Palm Family
Chamaerops humilis var. glauca Fan Palm
Asparagaceae Asparagus Family
Muscari comosum Tassel Hyacinth
Orithogalum algeriense A Star-of-Bethlehem
Orchidaceae Orchid Family
Dactylorhiza elata subsp. sesquipedalis Robust Marsh-orchid
Orchis mascula subsp. olbiensis Early-purple Orchid
Common Spotted Orchid
Poacae Grass Family
Briza maxima Large Quaking-grass
Bromus sterilis Barren Brome
Deschampsia cespitosa Tufted Hair-grass
Holcus lanatus Yorkshire-fog
Lagurus ovatus Hare's-tail Grass
Potamogetonaceae Pondweed Family
Potamogeton natans Broad-leaved Pondweed
Xanthorrhoeaceae Asphodel Family
Asphodelus aestivus Common Asphodel