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The Fashion History OfAmbrose Tey Department of Mechanical Engineering Imperial College LondonDESIGN, ART & CREATIVITY VITYDecember 2008The Fashion History of HairstylesFrom the beginning of time, humans have cared for their hair. The famous Ice Age statuettes, known as the Venus of Willendorf and of Brassempouy, show clear evidence of styled hair. About 25,000 years old, these statuettes reveal that at least some women in the society took care of their hair and had a concept of beauty
Citation preview
The Fashion History Of
Ambrose Tey Department of Mechanical Engineering Imperial College London
The Fashion History of Hairstyles
From the beginning of time,
Age statuettes, known as the Venus of Willendorf and of Brassempouy, show
clear evidence of styled hair. About
that at least some women in the society took care of their hair and had a
concept of beauty and attractiveness.
The presence of distinct hairstyles in early civilisations
have been aware of the connection between hairstyles and their personal image.
The Ancient Egyptians, known for their attention to beauty and cleanliness, used
combs and hairpins in their tresses while Greece women had long hair pulle
back into a chignon, sprinkled with gold powder, and often adorned with fresh
flowers or jewelled tiara. Chinese men shaved the front of the head and wore the
back hair long and braided
kept the back hair pulled tightly into a short stiff ponytail. These imply that although hairstyles
played a significant role in early societies
Hairstyles merely represent the civilisation’s identity
Moving forward in time in English history, hairstyle fashion was slowly evolving and
began to personalise
or adopt the hairstyle of an iconic individual in each era. Durin
for instance, Queen Elizabeth was the main female icon and set the trends for the
era. She was a guiding inspiration in fashion and women strove to imitate her curly
red hair and lily
have significant influence on the trends in fashion hairstyle.
The dawn of the 20th
century saw a transition in hairstyles, from the more
confined styles of the Victorian era to looser, fuller hairstyles of the
era (1901–1910). This was coupled with the modification and eventual
abandonment of the tight corset, or bodice, giving way to more mobile and
flexible clothing styles. Volume was the theme in this decade regardless of hair
length, although longer hairstyles were more po
their hair around balls of padding called ‘rats’ to create this
Edwardian hats, decorated with elaborate trimmings like ostrich feathers,
often essential accessories accompanying this so
in hairstyling was made in 1906 by Charles L. Nesslar: permanent hair curling.
have their hair curled for months although it was an expensive and long process, hence it remained a
luxury that was only available to the upper class.
men’s hairstyle. Men kept their hair short and were pomaded with Macassar oil. It originated from
Indonesia and is primarily made of coconut oil or palm oil combined with ylang
other fragrant oils. Moustache, beard and sideburns were regarded to represent their wealth and
status and were therefore very common at the time.
The transition of fashion hairstyle gradually came to a halt in the
After the horrors of the war, people just wanted to have fun.
the puritanical standards and constraints of
hairstyles. It was a time of racoon coats, boo
epitome of the Jazz Age was the
shockingly short, bobbed hairstyles signify the new independent, free
DESIGN, ART & CREATIVITY
The Fashion History of Hairstyles
From the beginning of time, humans have cared for their hair.
statuettes, known as the Venus of Willendorf and of Brassempouy, show
clear evidence of styled hair. About 25,000 years old, these statuettes reveal
that at least some women in the society took care of their hair and had a
concept of beauty and attractiveness.
The presence of distinct hairstyles in early civilisations also suggests
have been aware of the connection between hairstyles and their personal image.
The Ancient Egyptians, known for their attention to beauty and cleanliness, used
hairpins in their tresses while Greece women had long hair pulle
back into a chignon, sprinkled with gold powder, and often adorned with fresh
flowers or jewelled tiara. Chinese men shaved the front of the head and wore the
back hair long and braided. Men in Japan also shaved the front of the head but
ir pulled tightly into a short stiff ponytail. These imply that although hairstyles
played a significant role in early societies, there were little variations between each individual.
the civilisation’s identity as a whole and were not personalised.
Moving forward in time in English history, hairstyle fashion was slowly evolving and
began to personalise as of the 15th century. There was a huge tendency to imitate
or adopt the hairstyle of an iconic individual in each era. During the Elizabethan era
for instance, Queen Elizabeth was the main female icon and set the trends for the
era. She was a guiding inspiration in fashion and women strove to imitate her curly
red hair and lily-white complexion. Even in today’s society, famous
have significant influence on the trends in fashion hairstyle.
century saw a transition in hairstyles, from the more
confined styles of the Victorian era to looser, fuller hairstyles of the Edwardian
This was coupled with the modification and eventual
abandonment of the tight corset, or bodice, giving way to more mobile and
Volume was the theme in this decade regardless of hair
length, although longer hairstyles were more popular. Women often wound
around balls of padding called ‘rats’ to create this ‘puffy’ look. Large
, decorated with elaborate trimmings like ostrich feathers, are
essential accessories accompanying this sort of hairstyles. Additionally, an important invention
in hairstyling was made in 1906 by Charles L. Nesslar: permanent hair curling.
have their hair curled for months although it was an expensive and long process, hence it remained a
able to the upper class. As one would reckon, there was little change in
men’s hairstyle. Men kept their hair short and were pomaded with Macassar oil. It originated from
Indonesia and is primarily made of coconut oil or palm oil combined with ylang
Moustache, beard and sideburns were regarded to represent their wealth and
status and were therefore very common at the time.
ashion hairstyle gradually came to a halt in the 1910s during
After the horrors of the war, people just wanted to have fun. 1920’s society very much abandoned
constraints of the earlier era and it was a unique time in the history of
t was a time of racoon coats, boot-leg hooch, saxophones and ‘boop
epitome of the Jazz Age was the Flapper, with her bobbed hair and her mischievous smile.
shockingly short, bobbed hairstyles signify the new independent, free-spirited and free
VITY December 2008
1
The Fashion History of Hairstyles
have cared for their hair. The famous Ice
statuettes, known as the Venus of Willendorf and of Brassempouy, show
25,000 years old, these statuettes reveal
that at least some women in the society took care of their hair and had a
suggests that humans
have been aware of the connection between hairstyles and their personal image.
The Ancient Egyptians, known for their attention to beauty and cleanliness, used
hairpins in their tresses while Greece women had long hair pulled
back into a chignon, sprinkled with gold powder, and often adorned with fresh
flowers or jewelled tiara. Chinese men shaved the front of the head and wore the
. Men in Japan also shaved the front of the head but
ir pulled tightly into a short stiff ponytail. These imply that although hairstyles
variations between each individual.
ere not personalised.
Moving forward in time in English history, hairstyle fashion was slowly evolving and
There was a huge tendency to imitate
g the Elizabethan era
for instance, Queen Elizabeth was the main female icon and set the trends for the
era. She was a guiding inspiration in fashion and women strove to imitate her curly
famous superstars still
century saw a transition in hairstyles, from the more
wardian
This was coupled with the modification and eventual
abandonment of the tight corset, or bodice, giving way to more mobile and
Volume was the theme in this decade regardless of hair
wound
Large
are
itionally, an important invention
in hairstyling was made in 1906 by Charles L. Nesslar: permanent hair curling. Women could now
have their hair curled for months although it was an expensive and long process, hence it remained a
As one would reckon, there was little change in
men’s hairstyle. Men kept their hair short and were pomaded with Macassar oil. It originated from
Indonesia and is primarily made of coconut oil or palm oil combined with ylang-ylang oil as well as
Moustache, beard and sideburns were regarded to represent their wealth and
the First World War.
society very much abandoned
it was a unique time in the history of
leg hooch, saxophones and ‘boop-boop-a-doop’. The
, with her bobbed hair and her mischievous smile. These
spirited and free-woman
ethos of the ne
the 1920s progressed, the development of technology
cinemas and theatres, and hence trends in hairstyles, much more
accessible to the general public.
by superstars of the time, such as actress Clara Bow and singer Josephine
Baker. Men’s hair o
was gaining popularity. They were neatly trimmed and slicked back usin
brilliantine or other perfumed oils to give a glossy, well
appearance. Men’s
should not move even when they dance.
In the first three decades of the 20
influenced by many different factors and changes constantly. Economic and social changes resulted
in an increase of social mobility during the
hairstyles. In fact, in the bigger
What was previously unacceptable became a norm with rapid developments in fashion.
the advancement of technology in the 1920s created numerous roads for the communication of
fashion trends. The public gained more exposure in the shrinking world
society took on a new character. Undoubtedly, the Flapper styles, as a consequence, reflect this
change in attitude and women’s outlook on society.
conservative styles of the Victorian era
just three decades. All of which proves that it is impossible to look at current hairstyles and fashion
trends and make anything more than a wild guess as to where things will be in the
will just have to wait and watch.
The Forties can be regarded as the ‘Great Depression’ in the history of fashion hairstyles. With the
world at war, something of a more practical
or in munitions factories and non
at that time was dictated by practicability. Practical women wore their hair in a neat roll around the
nape and over the ears, often covered with a headscarf kn
exposed. Things were not any better
hairstyling. The rule was simple, cut it short, a dab of cream
Time was tough and people live their days without knowing what lies ahead of them. Women fear
for the lives of their family and countrymen while men fought for their lives and country. The fact
that hairstyling was no longer an e
sensitive fashion is to factors affecting one’s life, how one’s image is controlled by one’s emotions
and interactions with the environment. For example, when a person becomes ill, hairstyling b
a chore and can be live without. The person just wants to get better and no longer cares if his or her
hair is a mess. Similarly in difficult times, people’s attention shift from hairstyles and appearances to
DESIGN, ART & CREATIVITY
ethos of the new age, which serves to represent a carefree attitude.
the 1920s progressed, the development of technology
cinemas and theatres, and hence trends in hairstyles, much more
accessible to the general public. Variations sprang up and trends were set
by superstars of the time, such as actress Clara Bow and singer Josephine
Baker. Men’s hair on the other hand remained short and centre parting
was gaining popularity. They were neatly trimmed and slicked back usin
brilliantine or other perfumed oils to give a glossy, well
appearance. Men’s hair was perceived to be the neater the better and
should not move even when they dance.
In the first three decades of the 20th
century, it can be seen that the fashion trend
any different factors and changes constantly. Economic and social changes resulted
in an increase of social mobility during the Edwardian era, which sparked off the transition in
hairstyles. In fact, in the bigger picture, people’s perception of fashion was changed altogether.
What was previously unacceptable became a norm with rapid developments in fashion.
ncement of technology in the 1920s created numerous roads for the communication of
trends. The public gained more exposure in the shrinking world and women’s status in the
society took on a new character. Undoubtedly, the Flapper styles, as a consequence, reflect this
change in attitude and women’s outlook on society. In essence, the western world went from very
of the Victorian era to the wild-eyed, carefree days of short Flapper hairstyles in
just three decades. All of which proves that it is impossible to look at current hairstyles and fashion
ng more than a wild guess as to where things will be in the
will just have to wait and watch.
can be regarded as the ‘Great Depression’ in the history of fashion hairstyles. With the
, something of a more practical nature was needed. Many women had to work on land
or in munitions factories and non-essential items such as shampoos were hard to come by. Fashion
at that time was dictated by practicability. Practical women wore their hair in a neat roll around the
and over the ears, often covered with a headscarf knotted at the front leaving only the fringe
better for the gents either. There was no time for such fripperies as
hairstyling. The rule was simple, cut it short, a dab of cream oil, and off to battle.
Time was tough and people live their days without knowing what lies ahead of them. Women fear
for the lives of their family and countrymen while men fought for their lives and country. The fact
that hairstyling was no longer an essential routine of the day clearly reflects how delicate and
sensitive fashion is to factors affecting one’s life, how one’s image is controlled by one’s emotions
and interactions with the environment. For example, when a person becomes ill, hairstyling b
a chore and can be live without. The person just wants to get better and no longer cares if his or her
Similarly in difficult times, people’s attention shift from hairstyles and appearances to
more important matters at hand. This is w
can usually tell if someone had a busy or bad day.
When a man did not shave or when a woman
had uneven make ups. It also probably explains
why most military men in service are required to
shave their head or at least kept their hair strictly
short, deeming it unnecessary for hairstyling.
This is because safety, personal hygiene and
discipline are most important and shaving their
head just makes things much easier
VITY December 2008
2
w age, which serves to represent a carefree attitude. As
the 1920s progressed, the development of technology in America made
cinemas and theatres, and hence trends in hairstyles, much more
Variations sprang up and trends were set
by superstars of the time, such as actress Clara Bow and singer Josephine
the other hand remained short and centre parting
was gaining popularity. They were neatly trimmed and slicked back using
brilliantine or other perfumed oils to give a glossy, well-groomed
perceived to be the neater the better and
n trend in hairstyling was
any different factors and changes constantly. Economic and social changes resulted
Edwardian era, which sparked off the transition in
picture, people’s perception of fashion was changed altogether.
What was previously unacceptable became a norm with rapid developments in fashion. Moreover,
ncement of technology in the 1920s created numerous roads for the communication of
and women’s status in the
society took on a new character. Undoubtedly, the Flapper styles, as a consequence, reflect this
tern world went from very
eyed, carefree days of short Flapper hairstyles in
just three decades. All of which proves that it is impossible to look at current hairstyles and fashion
ng more than a wild guess as to where things will be in the coming years. We
can be regarded as the ‘Great Depression’ in the history of fashion hairstyles. With the
Many women had to work on land
essential items such as shampoos were hard to come by. Fashion
at that time was dictated by practicability. Practical women wore their hair in a neat roll around the
otted at the front leaving only the fringe
time for such fripperies as
oil, and off to battle.
Time was tough and people live their days without knowing what lies ahead of them. Women fear
for the lives of their family and countrymen while men fought for their lives and country. The fact
ssential routine of the day clearly reflects how delicate and
sensitive fashion is to factors affecting one’s life, how one’s image is controlled by one’s emotions
and interactions with the environment. For example, when a person becomes ill, hairstyling became
a chore and can be live without. The person just wants to get better and no longer cares if his or her
Similarly in difficult times, people’s attention shift from hairstyles and appearances to
more important matters at hand. This is why you
can usually tell if someone had a busy or bad day.
When a man did not shave or when a woman
had uneven make ups. It also probably explains
men in service are required to
or at least kept their hair strictly
deeming it unnecessary for hairstyling.
This is because safety, personal hygiene and
discipline are most important and shaving their
head just makes things much easier.
The Fifties
an end.
was during this period where the business of hairdressing became popular
and women started visiting hair salons on a weekly basis for the ‘shampoo
and set’. Hair began to suffer abuse and was tea
permanently waved and forced into perfectly formed curls.
trend for men
of their idols Elvis and James Dean. Greased black hairdos were slicked
back severely o
terminated at the nape of the neck becoming a V
a Ducktail.
The King’s influence was colossal and affected men’s hairstyles for many years to come
men were much more conscious about the way they look. More men started taking care of their hair
as they tried to copy him and it was there and then where the important role that hairstyles play in a
person’s appeal was acknowledged by many.
During the 1970s, personal expression was the key to a great hair style. Groovy looks explored
personal values and individuality rather than society’s expectations, and both men and women
embraced more natural styles with longer locks less tamed by
Funky looks were also popular, particularly for trendy, younger individuals, and offered another way
to express one’s personality. Even conservative
expression in the 1970s. The Seventies were basically th
hair long and black people decided they wanted to do it too. While the hippies’ hair hung down,
black people’s hair went in all direction. This is known as the ‘Afro’ hairstyle. The ‘Afro’ looked so
neat that white people started getting perms so they could have it too.
DESIGN, ART & CREATIVITY
Fifties and Sixties saw a time of glamour and elegance with the war at
an end. Women could now spend more time and effort
was during this period where the business of hairdressing became popular
and women started visiting hair salons on a weekly basis for the ‘shampoo
and set’. Hair began to suffer abuse and was teased, sculpted, sprayed,
permanently waved and forced into perfectly formed curls.
trend for men took on a major change in the mid 1950s
of their idols Elvis and James Dean. Greased black hairdos were slicked
back severely on the sides with liberal use of Brylcreme and this confection
terminated at the nape of the neck becoming a V-shape, which is known as
a Ducktail.
was colossal and affected men’s hairstyles for many years to come
e much more conscious about the way they look. More men started taking care of their hair
as they tried to copy him and it was there and then where the important role that hairstyles play in a
person’s appeal was acknowledged by many.
, personal expression was the key to a great hair style. Groovy looks explored
personal values and individuality rather than society’s expectations, and both men and women
embraced more natural styles with longer locks less tamed by hair products or overzealous scissors.
Funky looks were also popular, particularly for trendy, younger individuals, and offered another way
to express one’s personality. Even conservative shag hair styles or flirty bobs had room for p
The Seventies were basically the era of long hair. The hippies wore their
hair long and black people decided they wanted to do it too. While the hippies’ hair hung down,
black people’s hair went in all direction. This is known as the ‘Afro’ hairstyle. The ‘Afro’ looked so
e people started getting perms so they could have it too.
VITY December 2008
3
glamour and elegance with the war at
and effort on their hair. It
was during this period where the business of hairdressing became popular
and women started visiting hair salons on a weekly basis for the ‘shampoo
sed, sculpted, sprayed,
permanently waved and forced into perfectly formed curls. The hairstyle
took on a major change in the mid 1950s with the influence
of their idols Elvis and James Dean. Greased black hairdos were slicked
n the sides with liberal use of Brylcreme and this confection
shape, which is known as
was colossal and affected men’s hairstyles for many years to come. Through him,
e much more conscious about the way they look. More men started taking care of their hair
as they tried to copy him and it was there and then where the important role that hairstyles play in a
, personal expression was the key to a great hair style. Groovy looks explored
personal values and individuality rather than society’s expectations, and both men and women
or overzealous scissors.
Funky looks were also popular, particularly for trendy, younger individuals, and offered another way
had room for personal
The hippies wore their
hair long and black people decided they wanted to do it too. While the hippies’ hair hung down,
black people’s hair went in all direction. This is known as the ‘Afro’ hairstyle. The ‘Afro’ looked so
The 1980s saw less constraints and more freedom o
longer prepared to conform to a set imag
dressers’ emerged and graced the high streets
meticulously groomed hairstyles.
curled under. A good hairdresser was an essential part of
the other hand were busy following Madonna’s ever
unconventional, choppy off-coloured hairdo
Men on the other hand were very minimalist in their approa
the day. In fact anything over an inch was deemed long and there
Prior to the late eighties men had made do with shampoo alone, or occasionally pinched the
girlfriends hair gel but the ‘new
products for men. With new all-
for men’s bathrooms to sport as many products as females.
From the 50s to the 80s, fashion hairs
rigid hairstyles were left in the past and were replaced with trendy, funky styles. From
in hairstyles alone, it is obvious how people’s attitude have changed over the decades. As the
opens up, so does people’s mindset, well expressed through their fashion. Again, in just a couple of
generations, hairstyling went to the extreme and peaked in the 80s.
From the Nineties onward, hairstyle trends are
acceptable. In conclusion, we have come a long way from the Edwardian era and the world today is
definitely very much different from what it was a century ago. As we have seen, changes in hairstyle
fashion are subjected to countless variables. Without knowing what lies ahead of us, it will be
impossible to predict where hairstyle fashion will be in the next decade or so. What is definite is that
our hairstyle had and always will define who we are and our cha
hairstyle essentially tells a story. A story about oneself, one’s life and one’
DESIGN, ART & CREATIVITY
saw less constraints and more freedom of choice in styles and trends.
longer prepared to conform to a set image and many variances occurred. On one hand, the ‘Power
he high streets – immaculate women with strong tailored clothes and
ticulously groomed hairstyles. The ‘long bob’ was highly favoured – precis
good hairdresser was an essential part of a woman’s life. The rebellious
the other hand were busy following Madonna’s ever-changing style and were willing to sport
coloured hairdos, to match their unconventional, eccentric clothing.
Men on the other hand were very minimalist in their approach – shaved heads being the order of
In fact anything over an inch was deemed long and there was a new trend for products.
men had made do with shampoo alone, or occasionally pinched the
girlfriends hair gel but the ‘new man’ image encouraged companies to produce all
-male packaging of men’s toiletries it became completely acceptable
for men’s bathrooms to sport as many products as females.
From the 50s to the 80s, fashion hairstyle changed dramatically along with the society. Neat and
rigid hairstyles were left in the past and were replaced with trendy, funky styles. From
hairstyles alone, it is obvious how people’s attitude have changed over the decades. As the
so does people’s mindset, well expressed through their fashion. Again, in just a couple of
generations, hairstyling went to the extreme and peaked in the 80s.
hairstyle trends are constantly changing and pretty much anything
e have come a long way from the Edwardian era and the world today is
definitely very much different from what it was a century ago. As we have seen, changes in hairstyle
are subjected to countless variables. Without knowing what lies ahead of us, it will be
hairstyle fashion will be in the next decade or so. What is definite is that
our hairstyle had and always will define who we are and our character or attitude. A person’s
hairstyle essentially tells a story. A story about oneself, one’s life and one’s beliefs.
VITY December 2008
4
f choice in styles and trends. People were no
e and many variances occurred. On one hand, the ‘Power
immaculate women with strong tailored clothes and
precisely cut and evenly
The rebellious crowd on
changing style and were willing to sport
s, to match their unconventional, eccentric clothing.
ds being the order of
was a new trend for products.
men had made do with shampoo alone, or occasionally pinched the
man’ image encouraged companies to produce all kinds of new
male packaging of men’s toiletries it became completely acceptable
tyle changed dramatically along with the society. Neat and
rigid hairstyles were left in the past and were replaced with trendy, funky styles. From this progress
hairstyles alone, it is obvious how people’s attitude have changed over the decades. As the society
so does people’s mindset, well expressed through their fashion. Again, in just a couple of
constantly changing and pretty much anything are
e have come a long way from the Edwardian era and the world today is
definitely very much different from what it was a century ago. As we have seen, changes in hairstyle
are subjected to countless variables. Without knowing what lies ahead of us, it will be
hairstyle fashion will be in the next decade or so. What is definite is that
racter or attitude. A person’s
s beliefs.