The Eleventh Book of Natural Magick.doc

8/14/2019 The Eleventh Book of Natural Magick.doc

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The Eleventh Bookof Natural Magick

John Baptista Porta

(Giambattista della Porta)

(1537-1 15 )

"Of Perfuming" "The Proeme"

Chapter I - "Of perfuming Waters."

Chapter II - "To make s eet ater b! Infusion."

Chapter III - " o to make # eet Oils."

Chapter I$- " o to e%tra&t Water and Oil out of# eet Gums b! Infusion."

Chapter $ - " o to perfume #kins."

Chapter $I - " o to make # eet Po ders."

Chapter $II - " o to make s eet &ompounds."

Chapter $III - " o to make s eet perfumes."

Chapter I' - " o to adulterate usk."
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2/15

The Proe!e

" fter istillation * e pro&eed to +nguents and s eetsmells. It is an art ne%t of kin to the other* for it

pro,ides of the same things* &ompounds and mingles of+nguents * that the! ma! send forth pleasant s&entse,er! a!* ,er! far. This art is noble* and mu&h set b!*b! kings and great men. or it tea&hes to make aters*oils* po ders* mar&h panes * fumes* and to make s eetskins that shall hold their s&ent for a long time. nd ma!be bought for little mone!. /ot the &ommon and ordinar!

a!* but su&h as are rare* and kno n to ,er! fe .

#hapter $ "Of perfuming Waters."

%ave in the former book shown how sweet waters may beistilled out of flowers and other things, as the place dedicated

to istillation did require. Here now I will teach how tocompound sweet waters and flowers, that may cast forthodoriferous scents. As first,

"To make a most s eet perfumed ater."

Take three pounds of amask 0oses , as much of usk and red0oses , two of the flowers of Orange , as many of !rtle , half apound of Garden &la,er , an ounce and a half of Clo,es , three/utmegs , ten 1ilies . ut all these in an limbe&k , in the noseof which you must fasten of usk three parts, of mber one, ofCi,et half a one, tied up together in a Clout . And put the noseinto the 0e&ei,er , and tie them close with a cloth dipped in branand the white of an 2gg mi!ed. "et a gentle fire under it, until itbe all istilled .

" nother."
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3/15

Take two pounds of 0ose ater , of 1a,ender half one, of #retanWine thirteen ra&hm s , of the flowers of Gilliflo ers , 0oses ,0osemar! , 3asmine , the leaves of ar4oram , wild 5eton! ,#a,or! , ennel , and 5asil Gentle , half a pound. An ounce of1emon peel, a ra&hm of Cinnamon , 5en4amin , #tora% and/utmegs . $i! them, and put them in a glass, and set them outin the #un for four days, then istil them with a gentle fire. Andunless you put usk in the nose of the limbe&k , tie it up in arag, hang it by a thread in the water, while it stands sunning fora month. "et it in the #un , to take away the scurvy favor of thedistilling, if by chance it conceive any.

% 6ua /anfa .%

Take four pounds of 0ose water, two of Orange flowers, one of

!rtle , three ounces of sweet Trifoil , one of 1a,ender . Add tothese, two ounces of 5en4amin , one of #tora% , the quantity ofbean of 1abdanum , as much of a&e and Clo,es , a ra&hm ofCinnamon , #anders , and 1ingnum loes , an ounce of#pikenard . &et these all be grossly beaten, and boiled in avarnished earthen Pipkin over a gentle fire, for the space of anhour, then let them cool. "train them through a 1inen cloth, andset it up in a glass close stopped. 'ut tie up the Cinnamon ,Clo,es , 1ingnum loes and #anders in a thin 1inen cloth, andso put them into the pot, and boil them, as I said before, andafterwards take out the bundle. (or after the boiling of the

water, the remaining dust may be formed into pills, and madeinto cakes, which may used in perfuming, as I shall reachhereafter. This water is made diverse ways, but I have set downthe best. et in the boiling, it will turn colored, and become red,so that handkerchiefs or white 1inen , if they be wetted in it, arestained, although they are made wonderfully sweet. *hichmakes many forebear the use of it. *herefore, if we would have,

" 6ua /afa &larified*"

Take the former water, and put it into a glass 0etort , and set it

in 5alneo , over a gentle fire. The water will become clear, andalmost of the same scent. +nly a little weaker. eep the water,and lay aside the rest of the oe&es for sweet cakes.
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4/15

#hapter $$ "To make # eet Water b! Infusion ."

N ow, I will teach how to make perfumed 1i6uors , and what1i6uors they are, which will receive odors best, for water isunapt to keep scent. Oil is better, and Wine , -we may assignthe reason out of Theophrastus (or water is thin, void of tasteor scent, and so fine, that it can gather no scent) and those1i6uors which are thick, savory, and have a strong scent. Wine ,

although is be not sweet of itself, yet being placed nigh an odor,it will draw it, because it is full of heat, which does attract.*ater, being cold by nature, can neither attract, nor receive, nor

keep any scent. (or it is so fine, slender and thin, that the odorflies out again, and vanishes away, as if there were nofoundation whereon it could fi! and settle, as there is in Wine and Oil , who are more tenacious of scent, because they are of amore dense and callous body. Oil is the best preserver andkeeper of scent, because it is not changeable. *hereforeperfumers steep their perfumes in Oil , that it may suck out theirsweetness. *e use Wine to 2%tra&t the scent of flowers, andespecially, 6ua $ita , for Wine , unless distilled, infects thewater too much with its own scent.

" usk Water " This water sets off all others and makes them richer, wherefore,it is first to be made. Take the best 6ua $ita , and put into itsome grains of usk , mber and Ci,it , and set them in the sunfor some days. 'ut stop the vessel very close, and 1ute it, forthat will add very much to the fragrancy of it. A drop of this putinto any other water, will presently make it smell most pleasantlyof usk . ou may do the same with rose water and fountainwater often istilled , that it may obtain a thinness and heat,which is very necessary for the 2%tra&tion of 2ssen&es .

"Water of 3asmine * usk 0oses * Gilliflo ers *$iolets * and 1ilies "
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5/15

Is 2%tra&ted the same way. (or these flowers send forth but athin odor, which dwells not in the substance of them, but onlylies scattered on their surfaces, so that if they remain too long onthe fire, or in their enstruum , their sweetness degeneratesfrom its former pleasantness, and is washed off by the mi!ture ofthe stinking ill favored part of their substance. *herefore wemust lay their leaves only in the best 6ua $ita , that is, theleaves of 1ilies , 3asmine , usk 0oses , and the rest, hangingthem on a thread, that when the water has sucked out their odor,we may pluck them out, because their odor lies only on their#uperfi&ies . "o that if they lay long in the 6ua $ita , it wouldpenetrate too deep into them, and draw out the scent, whichwould not only destroy their former sweetness, but taint themwith an ill favor which accompanies those inward parts. Afterthese leaves are taken out, supply them with fresh, until youperceive their scent is also 2%tra&ted . 'ut take out the $iolets and the Gilliflo ers sooner then the rest, lest they color thewater. This water, being mi!ed with others, takes away thescurvy scent of the Wine .

" # eet &ompounded Water"

Take a great glass 0e&ei,er , and fill the third part almost of itwith 6ua $ita . ut into it 1a,ender flowers, 3asmine , 0oses ,Orange and 1emon flowers. Then add roots of Iris , C!press ,#anders , Cinnamon , #tora% , 1abdanum , Clo,es , /utmegs ,

Calamus romati&us , with a little usk , mber and Ci,it . (illthe glass, and stop it well. 'ut after you have filled the glasswith the flowers, they will wither and sink down. *herefore fill itup with more. "et it in a very hot sun or in 5alneo , until theirsweetness be all 2%tra&ted . Then strain out the water and onedrop of it in 0ose ater , or of !rtle flo ers , will perfume itall with a most fragrant smell.

#hapter $$$

" o to make # eet Oils."
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6/15

%ow to 2%tra&t Oil out of #pi&es and sweet things, is declaredbefore. /ow I will show how to draw scents out of other thingswith Oil . +r, as I said before, to make Oil the ground in whichodors may be kept and preserved a long time. *hich is doneeither by imbibing the Oil with odors, or the lmonds out ofwhich we afterwards e!press the Oil .

" o to make Oil of 5en *"

*hich is the sweetest Oil of all, used by the Genois . take anounce of 5en , a ra&hm of usk , as much mber , half a

ra&hm of Ci,it . ut them in a glass bottle well stopped, andset it in the sun for twenty days, then you may use it. 'ut besure that it be close stopped. (or the nature of odors being

volatile and fugitive, it quickly decays, loses its fragrancy, andsmells dully.

" a! to make odoriferous Oil of flo ers*"

It is a common thing but very commodious for perfumers, andmay be used for other things. He that knows how to use itrightly and properly, will find it an oil very profitable . 5lan&h your lmonds , and bruise them, and lay them between tworows of flowers. *hen the flowers have lost their scent, andfade, remove them, and add fresh ones. 0o this so long as the

flowers are in season. *hen they are past, squee1e out the Oil with a press, and it will be most odoriferous. ou may draw ascent with this way, out of those flowers, from whom you cannotdraw sweet water. Oil of 1ilies , 3asmine , usk 0oses ,Cro sfoot , Gilliflo ers , 0oses , and Orange flo ers , and ofothers, being made this way, smell most fragrantly. Oil of usk ,

mber and Ci,it , may be thus made also. #ut the lmonds ,being blanched from the top to the bottom, into seven or eightslices, and enclose them in a leaden bo! with these perfumes forsi! days, until they have imbibed the scent. Then press them,and they will yield a most sweet Oil , and yet perhaps not make

the musk much worse.
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7/15

#hapter $& " o to e%tra&t Water and Oil out of

s eet Gums b! Infusion."

*e may 2%tra&t sweet waters by another art that we spoke ofbefore, out of Gums , by Infusion and 2%pression . As fore!ample,

" s eet ater of #tora% * 5en4amin * and1abdanum *"

*e may do this, by beating and mi!ing these Gums with Oil of lmonds or of 5en , and a&erating them in 5alneo for amonth. Then draw out the Oil either by a 0etort or by2%pression , which is better. It will yield a most fragrant odor,that you can hardly perceive whether it were drawn out of theGums themselves by a 0etort . 5en , called in &atin, Glans+nguentaria , is used in precious ointments instead of Oil .Plin! called it orobolane . "o also artial ,

"What not in $irgil nor in omer7s found*

Is of # eet Oil and &orn the &ompound."

It is without any scent, and therefore fitter to receive them, andwhen it does receive, them, to reserve them, for it never grows .

#hapter &
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8/15

" o to perfume #kins."

N ow we will discourse of the perfuming of skins, which isperformed several ways, either by sweet waters, or rubbing themwith Oils , or laying them in flowers, so that they may attracttheir odor. And first,

" o to ash #kins*"

That they may lose the scent of beasts and flesh. The manner isthis, first wash them in Greek Wine , and let them lie wet forsome hours. Then dry them, and if the scent continues in them

still, wash them again. That being taken away, wash them insweet waters. Take four parts of 0ose ater , three of !rtle ,or Orange flowers two, of sweet Trifoil one, of 1a,ender halfone. $i! them, and put them into a wide mouthed earthenvessel, and steep the skins in them for a day. Then take themout, and hang them up in the shade to dry. 'ut when they arealmost dry, stretch and smooth them with your hands, that theymay not be wrinkled. 0o this thrice over, till they favor of thesweet waters, and lose their own stink. /e!t,

" o to perfume #kins ith lo ers."

They must be rubbed over with Oil . (or, as I have told you, thatis the foundation of all scents, both to attract them, and retainthem in a greasy body. It may be done with common Oil , butbetter with Oil of 5en , because it is without any scent of hisown. 'est of all with the Oil of 2ggs , which I have taught beforehow to make. The manner is thus. Anoint your gloves or skinswith a sponge on the inward side, and especially, in the seams.*hen that is done, you may make them attract the scent of any

flowers. $iolets and Gilliflo ers blow first in the "pring.2ather them in the morning, and lay them on both sides of your

skins for a day. *hen they grow dry sooner or later, fling themaway, and lay on new, stirring or moving them thrice or fourtimes in a day, lest they make the skins damp, and grow musty.*hen these flowers are past, lay on Orange flo ers and

0oses in the same manner. And last of all, 3asmine , which willcontinue until *inter. I mean, Garden 3asmine , for it flourishestwo or three months. Thus your skins or gloves will become verysweet in a years space. The odor will quickly fade and die. 'ut if
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9/15

you do the same the second time, it will continue much longer,and preserve their pleasantness. It very much preserves theirfragrancy, to keep them in a close place, in either a wooden orleaden bo!. 'ut if you lay them among 1inen , it will suck outtheir odor, and dull their scent.

" o to perfume skins."

If you add usk , mber and Ci,it to the aforesaid skins, theywill smell much more sweet and gratefully. +r take four parts ofWestern 5alsam , one of usk , as much of mber , and rub iton your gloves with a sponge, and they will smell very sweet. Iwill add one more e!cellent composition. Take eight parts ofIris , one of #anders , two of 5en4amin , four of 0ose Po der ,and one and a half of 1ingnum loes , half a one of Cinnamon ,

or rather less, soften them all with 0ose ater and Gum-Traga&anth , and grind them on a Porph!reti&k arble . Thenanoint your gloves with it in a sponge, and take three grains of

usk , two of mber , one of Ci,it . $ingle them, and rub themalso on.

" o to take the s&ent out of glo,es."

If you repent yourself of perfuming them, or would make sport ofanyone, boil a little 0ose ater or 6ua $ita , and while they behot, put the gloves in, and let them remain there awhile. This

will take away their scent. And if you steep other gloves in it,and dry them, they will imbibe it.

#hapter &$ " o to make # eet Po ders."

N ow we come to making sweet Po ders , which are either
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10/15

simple or compound. They are used in stuffing sweet bags andin perfuming skins and compositions. &earn therefore,

" o to make C!prian Po der ."

Take oss of the Oak , which smells like usk . 2ather it clean,in 0ecember, 3anuary, or (ebruary. *ash it five or si! times insweet water, that it may be very clean. Then lay it out in the#un and dry it. Afterwards, #teep it in 0ose ater for two days,and dry it in the #un again. This you must iterate oftentimes.(or the more you wash it, the sweeter it will smell. *hen it is

dried, grind it into powder in a 5rass ortar , and #eir&e it. Then put it into the #ie,e , and cover it. $ake a fire, and setsome sweet waters to boil over it. +r cast some perfumed cakes,and let the fume arise up into the #ie,e . The more often you do

this, the stronger and more lasting the scent will be imbibed bythe powder. *hen you perceive it to have attained a sufficientodor, take one pound of the powder, a little usk and Ci,et powdered, and a sufficient quantity of #anders and 0oses .'eat them in a 5rass ortar . (irst putting in the usk , and

then by degrees casting in the powder to mingle them well. Atlast, put the powders into a glass close stopped, that the sentmay not transpire and grow dull. There are several compositionsof this powder, which would be too tedious to recount. It may bemade wither white, or black, or brown. The white is made ofcrude Parget washed in 0ose ater , or other sweet water. And

adding usk , mber , Ci,et , and suchlike, it will smell at a gooddistance.

#hapter &$$

" o to make s eet &ompounds."

T here may be made diverse kinds of sweet compounds, ofwhich are made 5eads , which some use to reckon their prayersby, and others to trim their cloths with. Also Wash-5alls tocleanse and sweeten the hands. And first,
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11/15

" o to make s eet balls."

*ith small charge, which yet shall seem to be very costly andsweet. Take one ounce of C!prian Po der , and 5en4amin ofthe best mi!ture, which is brought out of Turkey. Half an ounceof Clo,er . A sufficient quantity of Illyrian Iris . (irst, melt someGum Traganth in 0ose ater . Then with the former powdermake it into a mass, and roll it up in little balls. 'ore themthrough, and fi! every one on a several tent upon the table. Then take four grains of usk , dissolve it in 0ose ater , andwash the outside of the balls with it. Then let them dry.Afterwards wet them again, for three or four times. "o will they

cast forth a most pleasant scent round about, which they will notquickly lose. 'ut if you would bestow more cost, and have agreater scent, I will show,

" o to make them another a!."

Take one ounce of #tora% , of mber half one, a fourth part of1abdanum cleansed, one ra&hm of 1ingnum loes andCinnamon , an eighth part of usk . 'eat the 2um, #tora% andAmber in a 5rass ortar with an Iron Pestle , being both hot.*hen these are well mi!ed, cast in the other powders, and mi!

them all together. At last add the usk . And before they growcold, form what you please of them. I will add also,

" nother &ompound*"

4ery necessary in a time of Plague , which will not only refreshthe brains with its sweet odor, but will preserve it againstinfection. Take three ounces of 1abdanum , as much of #tora% ,one of 5en4amin , an ounce and a half of Clo,es , an ounce of#anders , three of Camphire , one of 1ingnum loes , Calamus

romati&us , and 5uice of $alerian , a ra&hm of mber . $i!all these in the 5uice of 5alm , 0ose ater , and #tora% dissolved. 'ut to wash the face and hands. I will set down anoble composition.

"Of Washing balls or usk-balls ."

Take the fat of a Goat and purify it in this manner. 'oil a 1!e with the Pills of Citron in a 5rass kettle. &et the fat remain in itfor an hour. Then strain it through a 1inen cloth into cold water,and it will be purified. $ake the 1!e of two parts of the ashes of
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12/15

the Ceruse tree, one of 1ime , and half a Porringer of lom .$ingle them, an put them in a wooden bowl with two holes in

the bottom, stopped with #tra . Then pour in water, that it maycover them three fingers over, and strain it out through theholes. *hen the first is run out, add another quantity of water,and so the third time, while the water does receive any saltiness.

eep these several runnings asunder, and add some of thesecond and third unto the first, while a new 2gg will swim in it.(or it if sinks and goes to the bottom, it will be too weak.

Therefore add some of the first running. If it swims on the top,and lie upon the surface of the water, put in some of the secondand third running, until it descend, so that scarce any part of itbe seen above the water. Heat twenty pounds of this water ina 5rass kettle, and put into it two of the fat. Then strain it outinto broad platters, and e!pose it to the hot #un , mi!ing it oftenevery day. *hen it is grown hard, make Pomanders of it, andreserve them. ou may thus perfume them. ut two pounds ofthe Pomanders into a bowl, and with a wooden spoon, mi! itwith 0ose ater , till it be very soft. *hen it has stood still awhile, and is grown hard, add more water, and set it in the #un .0o this for ten days. Then take half a ra&hm of usk ,

somewhat less Ci,et , and as much of Cinnamon well beaten.$i! them, and if you add a little 0ose Po der , it will smell

much sweeter. Then 5udge of it by your nose. If the scent be tooweak, add more of the perfumes. If too strong, more of the#oap .

" o to make #oap * and multipl! it."

"ince we are fallen upon the discourse of #oap , we will not passit over this. Take #oap Geta , and reduce it into a small powder."et it on the fire in a 5rass kettle full of 1!e of a moderate

strength. "o that in three hundred pounds of 1!e , you may putfourscore of #oap . *hen the water begins to boil up in bubbles,stir it with a wooden ladle. And if the 1!e does fail in the boiling,add new. *hen the water is evaporated, take the kettle from thefire, and cast in si! pounds of ordinary #alt well beaten. And

with an Iron ladle empty it out, and let it cool all night. In themean time, prepare a 5rine , so sharp that it will bear an 2gg . Inthe morning, cut the #oap into slices, and put it into a broadvessel, and pour the 5rine on it. There let it stand one quarterof a day, and it will become very hard. If you put some #al

l&hali into the 5rine , it will make it much harder.
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13/15

#hapter &$$$ " o to make s eet Perfumes."

$t remains, that we speak of Perfumes . (or they are verynecessary for the scenting of skin, cloths, and Po ders . And toenrich noblemen6s chambers, with sweet odors in winter. They

are make either of Waters or Po ders .

" o to make Perfumes of Waters ."

Take four parts of #tora% , three of 5en4amin . +f 1abdanum ,1ingnum loes , and Cinnamon , one. An eighth part ofClo,es , a little usk and mber . 'eat them all grossly, andput them in a 5rass pot with an ounce and a half of 0ose ater ."et the pot over the fire, or hot ashes, that it may be hot, but

not boil. It will cast forth a pleasant odor. *hen the water isconsumed, put in more. ou may also add what you havereserved in making 6ua /anfa . (or it will send out a verysweet fume.

" nother a!."

Take three parts of Clo,es , two of 5en4amin , one of 1ingnum loes , as much Cinnamon , Orange Pill and #anders , aneighth of /utmeg . 'eat them and put them into a pot, and pourinto them some Orange flower water, 1a,ender , and !rtle water, and so heat it.

" nother a!."

2%press and strain the 5uice of 1emon . Into which put #tora% ,Camphire , 1ingnum loes , and empty usk Cods .

a&erate them all in 5alneo for a week in a glass bottle closestopped. *hen you would Perfume your chamber, cast a drop
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14/15

of this 1i6uor in a 5rass pot full of 0ose ater . And let it heatover warm ashes, it will smell most pleasantly.

"2%&ellent Pomanders for perfuming."

Take out of the e&o&tion for 6ua /anfa , 1ingnum loes ,#anders , Cinnamon and Clo,es . And of the remainingPo ders make a mass, which you may form into cakes, whichbeing burnt on hot ashes, smell very sweetly. I take out theCinnamon and the woods, because in burning they cast forth astink of smoke.

" nother a!."

Take one pound and a half of the coals of Willo , ground into

dust and #eir&ed . (our ounces of 1abdanum , three ra&hms of #tora% , two of 5en4amin , one of 1ingnum loes . $i! the#tora% , 5en4amin , and 1abdanum in a 5rass ortar with anIron Pestle heated. And put to them the Coal and 1ingnum

loes powdered. Add to these half an ounce of liquid #tora% . Then dissolve Gum Traganth in 0ose ater , and drop it bydegrees into the ortar . *hen the powders are mi!ed into theform of an +nguent , you may make it up into the shape of birds,or any other things, and dry them in the shade. ou may washthem over with a little usk and mber upon a Pen&il . Andwhen you burn them, you will receive a most sweet fume from

them.

" nother Perfume ."

Anoint the Pill of Citron or 1emon with a little Ci,et . "tick itwith Clo,es and 0a&es of Cinnamon . 'oil it in 0ose ater ,and it will fill your chamber with an odoriferous fume.

#hapter $' " o to adulterate usk."
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These Perfumes are often counterfeited by impostors.*herefore I will declare how you may discern and beware of

these cheats. (or you must not trust whole usk Cods of it,there being cunning impostors, who fill them with other things,

and only mi! usk enough to give its sent to them. 'lack usk inclining to a dark red, is counterfeited with Goat7s blood a littleroasted, or toasted 5read . "o that three or four parts of thembeaten with one of usk , will hardly be discovered. TheImposture may be discerned only thus. The 5read is easy tobe crumbed and the Goat7s blood looks clear and bright withinwhen it is broken. It is counterfeited by others in this manner.'eat /utmegs , a&e , Cinnamon , Clo,es , #pikenard , of each

one handful, and #eir&e them carefully. Then mi! them with thewarm blood of Pigeons , and dry them in the #un . Afterwardbeat them again, and wet them with usk-Water and

0ose ater . 0ry them, beat them, and moisten them very manytimes. At length, add a fourth part of pure usk , and mi! themwell. And wet them again with 0ose ater and usk-Water .0ivide the mass into several parts, and roll them in the hair of a

Goat which grows under his tail. +thers do it,

" nother a!* and*"

$ingle #tora% , 1abdanum , and powder of 1ingnum loes .Add to the composition, usk and Ci,et , and mingle all

together with 0ose ater . The Imposture is discovered by theeasy dissolving of it in water. And it differs in color and scent.+thers augment usk by adding roots of ngeli&a , which does

in some sort imitate the scent of usk . "o also they endeavour,

"To adulterate Ci,et ,"

Hang it in a 3akes among stinks. (or by striving against those illfavors, it e!cites its own virtue, revives, and recovers its lostsent.

The EN
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The Eleventh Book of Natural Magick.doc