The Debeers Story - Are Diamonds Forever?

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    The De Beers Story: Are

    Diamonds Forever?

    Donna J . Bergenstock and J ames PA.Maskulka

    m he number one rated ad slogan of the

    twentieth century, according to

    Adue? -

    ing A&e

    (1999), was De Beers’s memo-

    rable “A Diamond Is Forever.” Conceived by N.W

    Ayer in 1948, this simple four-word proclamation

    has survived more than 50 years of social, cul-

    tural, and economic upheaval to remain a potent

    example of the power of persuasion, In the

    United States and around the world, the benefi-

    ciary of this effectual slogan and the controlling

    force behind the most successful and enduring

    cartel organization in history are one and the

    same: De Beers.

    Since the late 18OOs, De Beers has regulated

    both the industrial and gemstone diamond mar-

    kets and effectively maintained an illusion of

    diamond scarcity. It has developed and nurtured

    the belief that diamonds are precious, invaluable

    symbols of romance. Every attitude consumers

    hold today about diamonds exists-at least in

    part-because of the persistent efforts of De

    Beers. Moveover, by monitoring the supply of

    diamonds throughout the world, De Beers has

    introduced and maintained an unprecedented

    degree of price stability for a surprisingly com-

    mon mineral: compressed carbon. Such unique

    price stability lies within the cartel’s tight control

    over the world’s supply of diamonds. De Beers’s

    operating strategy has been pure and simple: to

    restrict the number of diamonds released into the

    market in any given year and perpetuate the

    myth that they are scarce and should therefore

    command high prices.

    To this end, De Beers functions much like

    any other cartel. What sets it apart, however, is its

    demonstrated ability to sustain the goal of price

    control, as well as its astounding degree of mar-

    ket control. In essence, De Beers controls both

    the supply side and the demand side of the dia-

    mond market, raising prices at its own discretion

    while convincing consumers to purchase and

    treasure the “rare” gemstones.

    De Beers spends

    about 200 million a

    year to promote dia-

    monds and diamond

    jewelry. Because the

    firm controls nearly

    70 percent of the

    rough diamond mar-

    ket (the demand for

    which is derived from

    the dentand for jew-

    elry), it is the primary

    beneficiary of its mar-

    keting endeavors.

    Advertisements claim-

    ing “A Diamond Is

    Forever” are not only

    stimulating consumer

    demand, they are also

    subtly reinforcing the

    immortality of De Beers. One could claim that

    “De Beers Is Forever” as well.

    CONTROL OF PRODUCTION AND PRICES

    D

    e Beers/Centenary controls a producer’s

    cartel that operates as a quanti~-axing

    entity by setting production quotas for

    each member. During the early part of the past

    century, much of the diamond cartel’s strength

    rested with De Beers’s control of the South Afri-

    can mines. Toddy, the source of power no longer

    comes from rough diamond production alone but

    from a sophisticated network of production, mar-

    keting, sales, and promotion arrangements, all

    administered by De Beers,

    It is interesting to note that diamond prices

    have little or no relation to the cost of extraction

    (production). The same mining process or effort

    is just as likely to unearth gem-quality stones as

    cheaper industrial stones. Moreover, there is actu-

    ally no world shortage of rough diamonds.

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    Table 1

    Markups on Gemstones in

    1985

    Stuge q istrihutiorl

    Cost of mining

    MUrkUp

    Averuge Value of 0.5

    Carat Gem ( /carat)

    $ 60

    Mine s les

    Dealers of rough gems

    Cutting units

    Wholesale dealers

    Retail

    Source Ariozk% (1985)

    67%

    100

    200/i, $120

    100% $240

    15%

    $276

    100%

    $552

    Price Control Through Administration

    of a Producer’s Cartel

    An industry needs uniform prices to maintain its

    stability and facilitate channel administration and

    loyalty. To achieve this marketing objective, De

    Beers’s founders knew that the cartel would need

    to control every step within the distribution chan-

    nel and convince all members-miners, cutters,

    polishers, wholesalers-that a stable, smoothly

    functioning, single-channel system was in every-

    one’s best interest.

    Table 1

    shows average or “normal” price

    markups on gemstones along the channel of dis-

    tribution. A diamond that may cost 60 o mine

    can end up costing a consumer 552 at a local

    jewelry store. Business cycles and individual

    commercial practices may positively or negatively

    influence these figures. Gemstone quality (the

    four Cs: a combination of carat weight, clarity,

    color, and cut), which also plays a significant role

    in pricing, is not specifically considered; note that

    “average” values are cited.

    Diamond output from De Beers’s self-owned

    and self-operated mines constitutes only 43 per-

    cent of the total world value of rough diamonds.

    Because it is not the sole producer of rough

    stones in the world, De Beers has had to join

    forces with other major diamond-producing orga-

    nizations, forming the international diamond

    cartel that controls nearly three-quarters of the

    world market.

    In a purely competitive market, each pro-

    ducer would seek out buyers for its output, re-

    sulting in extreme price competition, a devalua-

    tion of diamonds, and a shattering of the illusion

    of scarcity. Rather than allow this scenario to take

    place, De Beers constructed an elaborate distribu-

    tion scheme whereby all cartel producers are

    contracted to sell the majority of their entire out-

    put to a single marketing entity: the De Beers-

    controlled Central Selling Organization (CSO)

    (see

    Figure 1).

    De Beers successfully convinced

    the producers that diamond supply must be regu-

    lated in order to maintain favorably high prices

    Business Horizons / May-June 2001

    and profits. Moreover, De Beers and the CSO

    determine what these prices should be, thereby

    controlling the

    profits

    realized by member pro-

    ducers. Because of U.S. antitrust laws concerning

    cartel arrangements that serve to monopolize a

    particular industry, De Beers and the CSO are

    prohibited from operating in the United States.

    They can, however, sell to U.S. manufacturers

    and wholesalers from their London headquarters.

    The total rough diamond supply controlled

    by the CSO comes from three sources: De Reers/

    Centenary-owned mines; outside suppliers con-

    tracted to the CSO (cartel members); and open

    market purchases via buying offices in Africa.

    Antwerp, and Tel Aviv (rough output purchases

    from countries that have not signed an agreement

    with De Beers).

    De Beers also effects control over the supply

    of diamonds released onto the world market by

    adhering to a principle established by Cecil

    Rhodes nearly a century ago: The number of

    diamonds brought to market in any given year

    should be approximately equal to the number of

    wedding engagements occurring in that year,

    equating supply with demand. To do this, De

    Beers uses a stockpiling strategy also referred to

    as a buffer stock. This stockpile consists of mil-

    lions of carats of rough diamonds-valued at 4

    billion in 1999. In times of slack demand, the

    company increases its stockpile (withholding

    diamonds from consumers) to uphold prices.

    Should these stones be released onto the market

    prematurely, the entire pricing strategy main-

    tained by the CSO would collapse.

    Supply Control Through

    Single-Channel Distribution

    As the organizing body of the international dia-

    mond producers cartel, De Beers controls not

    only 40 to 45 percent of the world’s rough dia-

    mond production, but also the CSO, which deter-

    mines prices. Along with the insistence on being

    the sole purchaser and price setter of rough

    stones, De Beers functions as the sole diamond

    distributor. In any given year, 65 to 70 percent of

    the world’s diamonds pass through the CSO to

    cutters and brokers.

    Diamond sales, known in the trade as

    “sights,”

    are held ten times a year in London, in

    Lucerne, Switzerland, and in Kimberley, South

    Africa. The sales are limited to approximately 160

    privileged “sightholders,” primarily owners of

    diamond-cutting factories in New York, Tel Aviv,

    Bombay, and Antwerp, who then sell to the rest

    of the diamond trade (shown in Figure 1). The

    sight dates for each year are formally announced

    during December of the previous year. About a

    month or so before each sight date, the sight-

    holders convey their diamond needs or prefer-

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    Figure 1

    Rough Diamond Distribution

    Diamond Sources

    Central Selling Organization CSO)

    De Beers/

    Diamond Diamond Diamond

    Centenary-

    + Producers --) Purchasing --) Trading

    owned mines 43q,)* Association

    and Trading

    Company

    (DPA)

    Company

    (DTC)

    (PURTRA) f

    Cutting and

    Polishing Centers

    New

    York

    & London e Manufacturers’ B Retailers

    Antwerp

    Wholesalers

    Tel Aviv

    Bombay

    Cartel Members

    (other producers) \ Diamond

    32w *

    Corporation

    /

    Outside/

    (DICORP)

    Open market

    (25%1*

    *

    World value of rough diamondproduction

    Sources: Ariovich

    (198_5);

    De Reers

    199~5

    nnual Report.

    ences, such as quantity and quality, to the CSO,

    which then attempts to match the requests with

    its own needs. At the appointed time, each sight-

    holder is escorted individually into a room and

    given a plain brown shoebox filled with nonde-

    script envelopes containing rough diamonds. At

    this point no bargaining or negotiating is permit-

    ted; each sightholder simply leaves with his allot-

    ment of rough diamonds.

    Dominance of the CSO: Sight Rules

    The economic success of all cartels depends

    highly on strict adherence to their rules, written

    or unwritten. Perhaps no cartel in history has

    been able to extend its influence as broadly or

    for so long as the diamond cartel has. De Beers

    exercises control over the cartel through several

    unwritten yet strictly administered rules of sight-

    holder behavior. Clients who follow the rules are

    rewarded with consistent upgrades in the quality

    and quantity of rough stones in their boxes, while

    those who circumvent them find progressively

    worse allocations and risk not being invited back

    to future sights. An excerpt of the CSO’s rules for

    sightholders is listed below (Epstein 1982):

    1. They may not question their quantity/

    quality allocation or the authority of the CSO

    executive in charge of making the allocation,

    2. They may not question the price of their

    box.

    3. They must take the entire box, regardless

    of its contents, or take nothing at all. Of the thou-

    sands of diamond classifications, only one-third

    to one-half are of gem quality and profitable to

    the trade. Because diamond mines yield a variety

    of colors, shapes, sizes, and clarities, all types of

    stones must be passed through the marketing

    The Ik Heers Story Are Xamonds Forever?

    pipeline to enable producers to realize sustain-

    able profits. Allowing sightholders to pick only

    the best or most profitable stones would leave

    De Beers with thousands of unwanted diamonds.

    The CSO overcomes this potential problem by

    allocating a wide range of rough stones to sight-

    holders.

    4. They may not resell uncut diamonds from

    their box without special permission from the

    CSO. This rule enables the CSO to maintain mo-

    nopoly control of the international diamond sup-

    ply, and prevents a third party from stockpiling

    rough stones with the intent to jeopardize future

    diamond price stability.

    5. They must give De Beers whatever infor-

    mation it needs to equate demand with supply

    accurately in the market. This includes the num-

    ber of uncut diamonds in the process of being

    cut, in inventory, and previously sold, as well as

    estimates of future sales in each category.

    6. They may not sell their diamonds to trade

    members that undercut prices at the retail level.

    Provided the above rules are adhered to, the

    CSO can regulate down to the carat what types

    and quantities of stones will be permitted to en-

    ter the market, thereby fine-tuning both diamond

    supply and price levels,

    DIAMOND DEMAND: IMAGE MANAGEMENT

    AND PRICE MAINTENANCE

    A

    s

    pstein notes, “Control of the world’s

    diamond supply is a necessary but not

    a sufficient condition for upholding and

    stabilizing the price of diamonds.” When diamond

    supplies were rather limited, producers simply

    mined, cut, and polished the gems and offered

    them in traditional forms to select audiences at

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    exclusive prices. With the discovery of vast sup-

    plies of diamonds in South Africa and later in

    Siberia, De Beers, on behalf of the international

    diamond industry, successfully began to manage

    consumer perceptions of the physical product to

    create a new image for diamonds. De Beers’s

    ongoing challenge, says Spar (1994), has always

    been to sell diamonds to the masses without the

    gems being perceived as a mass-market item.

    The Psychology of the Demand

    for Diamonds

    Regardless of supply controls via stockpiling,

    production quotas, and sight allocations, dia-

    mond prices could not remain artificially high if

    consumer tastes or fashions changed, or if in-

    comes suddenly plunged, as during the Great

    Depression. Usher (1989) notes that advertising

    \\

    De Bee rs s p rom o tio na l

    go a l wa s to c rea te a ong -

    term sustainable impression

    in the p ub lic ’ s m ind tha t

    d ia m ond s a re m p o rt an t

    e ve n ne c e ssa ry ”

    effects include

    enhancing a psy-

    chic quality of the

    advertised goods

    and persuading

    people to act

    against their true

    interests. Although

    De Beers cannot

    influence eco-

    nomic conditions,

    it can influence the

    consuming public

    to purchase diamond jewelry rather than other

    luxury goods. The company has quite success-

    fully promoted the aesthetic, emotional, social,

    and cultural aspects of diamonds, thus preventing

    price devaluations despite the existence of excess

    supply conditions.

    Over the past 60-plus years, De Beers has

    designed one of the most unique and successful

    marketing strategies in history, using a carefully

    orchestrated marketing program in which all

    elements send a consistent, integrated message

    of romance, love, tradition, elegance, and value

    creation. In 1999, “The Advertising Century,” a

    special supplement to Advertising Age, ranked

    the campaign as sixth best from a list of the top

    100 ad campaigns of the century.

    In the late 193Os, De Beers and its then ad-

    vertising agency N.W. Ayer (replaced by J. Walter

    Thompson in 1996>, undertook a campaign of

    subtle psychological conditioning to convince the

    American public to buy diamonds. Until very

    recently, brand names, price quotes, store loca-

    tions, and product comparisons were distinctly

    absent from all messages. Instead, a mental con-

    nection was made for consumers linking dia-

    monds with romance and love. Men were en-

    couraged to view the gems as palpable symbols

    of love and devotion, while women were per-

    suaded that a diamond ring was an engagement

    necessity. The size and quality of the diamond

    were even supposed to signify the degree of love

    a couple shared. De Beers’s promotional goal

    was to create a long-term. sustainable impression

    in the public’s mind that diamonds are important,

    even necessary. N.W. Ayer even invented a his-

    torical background for the giving of diamonds as

    engagement symbols. It established the origin of

    the tradition several centuries prior to its actual

    beginnings in the late nineteenth century, thereby

    inculcating the belief that, era after era, great

    romances were always consummated with a gift

    of diamonds.

    Hence, De Beers has successfully promoted

    the intangible aspects of a physical product-

    “intangibilizing a tangible,” as Levitt (1981) puts

    it, with desire, emotion, status, love. and ro-

    mance. The slogan “A Diamond Is Forever,” the

    focal point of De Beers’ advertising campaigns,

    was meant to convey the idea of eternal romantic

    love as well as the notion that, once received. a

    diamond should not be resold, thus keeping the

    secondhand diamond market-and price line

    erosion-to a minimum.

    N.W. Ayer also focused on the conspicuous

    consumption value of diamonds, holding them

    up as symbols of economic status and lifetime

    success. To encourage demand, the agency effec-

    tively used Maslow’s (1954) needs hierarchy to

    connect diamonds with various levels of psycho-

    logical need. Their rationale was that purchasing

    and owning diamonds satisfies the complex hu-

    man needs of love, social belonging, self-esteem,

    and self-actualization. Consumers were persuaded

    to subconsciously value diamonds far more than

    their actual market worth.

    De Beers’s promotional campaigns have been

    nothing less than brilliant-and triumphant. Its

    earliest ads were elegant and sophisticated, char-

    acteristics that endure to this day. The company

    was also a pioneer in product placements. Dur-

    ing Hollywood’s “Golden Age” and beyond, many

    famous stars were filmed on screen and off wear-

    ing notable pieces of jewelry provided by De

    Beers. Perhaps the crowning achievetnent of its

    product placement initiative was the 1953 film

    Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, in which Marilyn Mon-

    roe sings “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend”-+

    memorable phrase that has been repeated count-

    less times since the movie’s premiere.

    Throughout the last five decades, De Beers’s

    and N.W. Ayer’s vision has gradually been XII-

    ized. Diamonds have become an integral part of

    romance, courtship, and marriage rituals world-

    wide. So ingrained in the public’s mind is the

    notion of presenting a diamond at these special

    occasions that couples who cannot afford one

    early in their romance choose to defer the pur-

    chase until later rather than forgo it completely.

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    Despite the incredible success enjoyed by De

    Beers, the company currently faces two daunting

    challenges---maintaining its status as the premier

    brand label for diamonds in an era of expanding

    supply, and stimulating primary consumer de-

    mand for the gems. Its specific challenge today is

    to unlock people’s desire to spend more of their

    disposable income on diamonds, ideally by in-

    creasing marketing expenditures to levels consis-

    tent with that of other luxury goods firms. It is

    hoped that this will increase primary demand for

    diamonds to an annual growth rate of 5-6 percent

    per annum, improving both share price and re-

    turn on capital.

    DE BEERS’S FUTURE:

    DIFFfEBENTIATING

    PRODUCTS THROUGH DIAMOND BRANDING

    early March 1998, De Beers announced the

    development of a diamond branding tech-

    nique whereby high-quality diamonds sold

    by the CSO would be branded with a “De Beers”

    mark and serial number. Prior to a full-scale

    launch, the branding strategy underwent a nine-

    month pilot program in the U.K. with a few hun-

    dred stones. According to Stephen C. Lussier, who

    heads De

    Beers’s

    consumer marketing division.

    the branding initiative originated in the firm’s

    “gem defensive research” against synthetic, frac-

    ture-filled, color-enhanced, and otherwise artifi-

    cially treated stones (Even-Zohar 1998).

    The decision by De Beers to formally brand

    diamonds marketed through the CSO is a risky

    yet crucial step in maintaining control of the dia-

    mond market. In an era when brands reign su-

    preme, it may be difficult to foresee any prob-

    lems with a we&designed branding program. But

    De Beers is both a unique company and a unique

    brand. By launching such a corporate strategy; it

    may incur the following business risks:

    1. De Beers has spent the last 50 years build-

    ing prima y demand for generic diamonds. With

    the proposed branding strategy, it is shifting its

    focus to building selective demand for the De

    Beers brand. Despite its near universal recogni-

    tion as “the diamond company,” claims of unique-

    ness may be difficult to substantiate.

    2. The association of De Beers and diamonds

    is fairly well established within the consuming

    public, but mainly on a superficial level. Consum-

    ers recognize the name “De Beers” but do not

    know much at all about the company or its meth-

    ods of operation. As De Reers increases its pres-

    ence in the retail arena, it is likely to draw more

    attention from the U.S. Justice Department re-

    garding antitrust activities.

    3. For various reasons, branding will give De

    Beers a competitive advantage, to the detriment

    of other channel members, so there will likely be

    widespread trade resistance. Competitors fear that

    any unbranded stones sold by the trade may be

    unable to compete with De Beers’s branded ones.

    Why Brand Diamonds?

    If De Beers is to maintain its branding strategy

    successfully: consumers must be convinced that

    meaningful differences exist between a De Beers

    diamond and the generic or other branded gems

    that are increasingly available. Through the cen-

    turies, diamonds have been perceived as pseudo-

    commodity goods, differentiable only by intrinsic

    quality characteristics and not by production

    efforts. By placing a brand on its diamonds, De

    Beers is taking its well-known corporate identity

    and transferring to its product all psychological,

    financial, and emotional associations the consum-

    ing public has with it. In so doing, it will attempt

    to continue to charge premium prices for what it

    claims are superior diamonds.

    The importance of branding in the diamond

    industry has recently been underscored as the

    industry confronts the challenge of “blood dia-

    monds”-diamonds mined in Angola, Sierra

    Leone, and other West African states whose sales

    are used to purchase weapons and finance rebel

    activities. All diamond producers today are facing

    the specter of a broad-based consumer boycott

    similar to one that crippled the

    fur industry a decade ago. One

    article (“Wdshed Out of Africa”

    2000) refers to a photograph in

    the ;%w )‘o& Post of a horribly

    maimed child in Sierra Leone,

    suggesting that this is the con-

    sequence of diamond buying.

    What is at issue here is public

    opinion. As the fur industry has

    regretfully discovered, once

    public opinion is no longer

    controlled by the corporation

    or industry, it is very difficult to

    redirect the negative effects.

    Thus the role gf diamond

    I

    branding in the future may be akin to an appella-

    tion of origin rather than an assurance of quality.

    Branding diamonds will also allow De Beers

    to allocate its multimillion-dollar yearly marketing

    budget more efficiently. From the early days of

    the diamond cartel, De Beers and the CSO have

    successfully maintained diamond prices by regu-

    lating supply and creating demancl for the benefit

    of nil diamond producers, cartel members and

    nonmembers alike. Although they sell 70 percent

    of the world’s diamonds, their highly effective

    advertising campaign benefits 100 percent of the

    world’s producers-which means that approxi-

    mately 30 percent of all diamond producers are

    “free riders.” Given the recent upheaval in the

    diamond industry, caused primarily by rough

    The De Beers Story: Are

    Diamonds

    Foreves?

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    diamonds leaked onto the market by Russia and

    Angola, De Beers’s management has concluded

    that it is necessary for its very survival to “protect

    its own.” Branding is a way to leverage the firm’s

    marketing skills and advertising investment for

    the sole benefit of its producing members and

    sightholders and to the exclusion of all non-CSO

    members and non-CSO marketed goods.

    In De Beers’s 1997 annual report, Chairman

    Nicholas Oppenheimer emphasized that the 200

    million spent yearly to promote diamonds world-

    wide is “a service, which we undertake primarily

    on behalf of our core producers and clients.” He

    also noted that the newly implemented branding

    concept “will give additional comfort to our cli-

    ents and be a guarantee of quality and trust to

    the consumer.” As Even-Zohar reports, De Beers’s

    managing director Gary Ralfe warned the dia-

    mond trade in early 1998 that:

    in the future De Beers will be driven to

    seeking to ensure that what money it

    feels it can afford to spend on the pro-

    motion of diamond jewelry is focused

    towards those diamonds which come out

    of its own mines and those of its partners

    in Africa or pass through the CSO, rather

    than giving a free ride in its promotion to

    those diamonds which remain outside

    the CSO system.

    From an economic perspective, diamond

    branding will enable De Beers and the CSO to

    evolve (eventually) from a dominant player in an

    oligopoly market structure selling a commodity

    product to a company offering a unique product

    in a competitive marketplace. Firms wishing to

    maintain their dominance in a dynamic market

    must be concerned with product demand. Dia-

    monds will still be available from non-cartel

    members, but they won’t carry the “De Beers”

    brand name and guarantee. Thus, by virtue of its

    commanding market share, De Beers will be able

    to operate as a quasi-monopoly, albeit not a per-

    fect monopoly. As such, it will be able to strictly

    regulate the supply of its branded stones. While

    the market may have access to nearly limitless

    quantities of generic or unbranded diamonds, De

    Beers can withhold its brand name diamonds to

    maintain the illusion of scarcity.

    Another benefit of diamond branding is the

    judicious use of the well-known De Beers name

    and its associated equity at the corporate level.

    As George F.H. Burne, Managing Director of De

    Beers Canada, explains, “We spend 200 million

    a year promoting diamonds basically for other

    people. Our name is quite well known and we

    wondered how we could use it better” (Voss

    1998). The name “De Beers” has been synony-

    mous with diamonds since the 193Os, and its use

    in promotions has, up to this point, been subtle

    but pervasive. De Beers’s corporate image as a

    diamond mining entity is well established, yet

    this is all most consumers know about the com-

    pany. Branding diamonds with the corporate

    name will push De Beers from the background

    to the forefront and acquaint consumers with this

    marketing powerhouse.

    A further goal is to take advantage of the

    equity or added value attributable to branded

    products. Most brand marketing consultants

    would concur that a brand generates and main-

    tains consumer-based equity with strong, favor-

    able, and unique brand associations, in that or-

    der. Uniqueness is irrelevant if the association is

    unfavorable, and a favorable impression is mean-

    ingless if the association is weak. De Beers does

    have a very strong association between the cor-

    porate name and diamonds that currently seems

    to be favorable. However, for consumers to con-

    tinue to view De Beers favorably, the company

    may need to reach an agreement regarding its

    “monopoly” status with the U.S. Justice Depart-

    ment and build its reputation as a seller of clean,

    rather than blood, diamonds by continuing to

    issue certificates of origin.

    De Beers’s immediate marketing challenge

    lies in establishing unique brand associations. As

    the company recently announced, it must distin-

    guish its diamonds from generic ones and per-

    suade consumers to pay more for its brand name.

    If the branding strategy is executed properly,

    consumers will buy a De Beers diamond and

    agree to pay premium prices to own it.

    In the end, the main impetus for De Beers’s

    decision to undertake branding appears to be

    one of control-specifically: control of its market-

    ing dollars to minimize the “free rider” phenom-

    enon; control of the supply of branded stones

    offered to the market; and control of consumer

    perceptions of its corporate identity and product

    quality. Interestingly, such a goal fits perfectly

    with the cartel’s historical methods of operation.

    even though controlling the supply of rough

    stones is no longer a feasible option.

    Implementing and Monitoring

    the Branding Initiative

    The U.K. pilot project-De Beers’s terminology

    for the test market-commenced in August 1998

    and lasted for about nine months. The branding

    project was a spin-off from earlier research into

    ways to protect consumers from synthetic stones

    deceptively represented as genuine diamonds.

    Beyond this defensive tactic, the strategic goals of

    the branding initiative were to (1) increase con-

    sumer confidence in diamond quality and origin,

    (2) test the strength of the De Beers name, and

    (3) see if the name carried any value or equity.

    Business Horizons / May-June 2001

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    7/8

    Boodle & Dunthorne, an upscale jeweler in

    the IJ.K., was the exclusive retailer of “The De

    Beers Diamond Nlarque” during the test market.

    A few hundred branded stones, sized l/3 carat

    and larger, were offered to consumers at stores in

    Chester, Manchester, and Liverpool. The branding

    process involves inscribing individual security or

    registration numbers and the De Beers name on

    the diamond table (the large, flat surface that is

    always visible, even when set in jewelry). The

    microscopic inscriptions are invisible both to the

    naked eye and a jeweler’s loupe and can only be

    viewed with the aid of a powerful microscope or

    with the special reader device developed and

    patented by De Beers. They can be removed by

    polishing.

    It is important to note that the branding pro-

    cess was not limited to diamonds cut by De

    Beers or extracted from De Beers-owned mines.

    Any fine quality diamond distributed through the

    CSO was eligible to be branded, but only sight-

    holders were allowed to submit diamonds for

    branding. According to Stephen Lussier, the brand

    does not signify that the diamond is owned by De

    Beers. Rather, it is a guarantee of quality and

    authenticity backed by De Beers and its reputa-

    tion of integrity,

    much like the Good Housekeep-

    ing Seal of Approval.

    Subsequent to the pilot project, all qualifying

    and branding will be done by De Beers’s re-

    search laboratory in London. Sightholders will

    send cut and polished stones to London where

    they will be inscribed and then sent back. Fees

    for the inexpensive inscription process along

    with those for handling, shipping, and adminis-

    trative support have not yet been determined but

    may be included in the price of sight boxes dis-

    cussed earlier.

    In his chairman’s statement in the 1998 an-

    nual company report, Oppenheimer remarked

    that results from the test market were encourag-

    ing and supported the belief that the De Beers

    name and reputation enhances the value of dia-

    mond jewelry.

    oday. heightened global competition is

    effecting change in afl industries. Even

    the vaunted diamond cartel has been

    forced to respond to market forces. De Beers is

    facing its greatest challenge ever as the cost of

    maintaining the illusion of scarcity exceeds its

    financial reserves, and public sentiment toward

    the diamond industry turns unfavorable with

    claims of “blood diamonds.” De Beers’s recently

    announced marketing strategy is clearly more

    market-responsive, leaving De Beers with much

    less control over the supply of diamonds anci

    distribution channels than at any point during its

    100-year history. De Beers is still fully confident

    of its future as a major participant in the diamond

    industry, but only time will tell if its diamonds

    truly are forever. Cl

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