TheCruiseofMagicfromGuernseytoLaRochelle-2019

StPeterPorttoRoscoff–Monday10thJune2019–73miles“Magic”crewedbymyselfandPaulFramptonhadreturned,toGuernsey,fromtheSeawardSquadronRally,inDartmouth,onSun8thJune,withtheintenOonofhavingarestdayinGuernsey,beforestarOngourpassagetoBriRany.However,theforecastforTuesdaywasnotgood,strongwindsandrain.Thedecisionwasmadetomakearunforit.Were-fuelledinthemorningandsetoffaWerlunch.Wedepartedat14:20andwereberthinginRoscoffat18:17,adistanceof72milesonthelog.Wehadagoodrundownwiththewindforce3-4NNW.Themarinawassurprisinglyemptywhenwearrived,whichwefoundoutwasbecausetheywereexpecOng50plusyachtsfromtheLaSolitaireFurgoLeFigarorace,whichwasduetoarriveontheWednesday.

Tuesday11thJuneThemorningstartedwiththeblusterywetweatherthathadbeenforecast,whichthenmoderatedduringtheday.IntheaWernoonwewalkedintothetowntoexplore.IntheeveningwehadamealinthemarinabarandweresurprisedthefindthattheyhadOrmersonthemenu!TheOrmerisaseasnailfoundaroundtheChannelIslands.InGuernsey,harvesOngisrestricted,andOrmerscanonlybecaughtoncertainOdesinthespring.Therulesinplaceareaimedmakelifeinconvenientforthosewhowishtocatchthem,forbiddingthewearingofwetsuitsorthehunterspuangtheirheadsunderwater.Theopportunitytotastethemwasnottobemissed,howeverwefounditdifficulttoseewhatthefusswasallabout!

RoscofftoBenodet-Wednesday12thJune–106milesTheweatherhadimprovedslightly,andwedecidedtosetofffromRoscoffaWerlunch.OurplanneddesOnaOonwasCamaret,withtheopOontodiverttoL’AberWrac’h,iftheseasprovedtobehardgoing.ItwasneapOdeandalthoughwewerepunchingOdetogettotheChenalduFouratslackwater,wemadegoodOme.WewerekeptbusyavoidingthecompeOtorsofLaSolitaireastheymadetheirwaytoRoscoff.AsweturnedsouthintotheChenalduFour,theseamoderatedandwithafairOde,behindus,weweremakinggoodOme.AdecisionwasmadetoproceedstraightdownthroughtheRazdeSeineandontoBenodet.ArrivinginOmeforsupper,weberthedonthelongvisitor’spontoonatSainteMarineandenjoyedawelcomemealatLeCaféduPort.

RoscofftoConcarneau-Thursday13thJune–16milesKeentomakeprogressandaswehadvisitedtheOdetRiveronpreviouscruises,wedepartedSainteMarineaWerbreakfasttomaketheshorttriptoConcarneau.OnthewaywecalledintoPortlaForêttopickupfuel.WedidnotgetachancetohaveagoodlookaroundPortlaForêt,butitseemslikeaveryquietmarina,wellworthanothervisit.Thefuelpumpiscontrolled,likemostinFrance,byaCreditCardmachine.YouhavetoenteryourCreditCardnumberandthefuelisdispensed.Thispumponlyallowed€150.00ataOme,soat€1.57perlitre,wehadtodoninetransacOons!Ifthemarinaofficehadbeenopen,wemayhavebeenabletooverridethis,buttheywereclosedforalonglunch.AWerourownlunchwemovedontoConcarneau.

ConcarneautoIledeGroix–Friday14thJune–24milesThiswasanothershortrunofonly24miles,andwearrivedjustaWermid-day.ThemarinaatPortTudy,IledeGroixissmall.Therewereanumberofspareberthsonthevisitor’spontoonwhenwearrived,butthesefilledbymid-aWernoon;wewerepleasedwehadarrivedearly.TheislandisoWencomparedtoAlderney,thereareafewbarsandsmallrestaurantsaroundtheharbourandthenthereisasOffwalkuptothevillageatLeBourg.WeenjoyedafineplateofLangousOneatLaSafran,inthesquarebythechurch.OneoftherestaurantsbytheharbouractsaDepotdePain,sothereisnoneedtowalkuptothevillageinthemorning.

IledeGroixtoPiriacsurMer-Sunday16thJune–38miles

Chaangtoanotherskipper,onthepontoon,wewereencouragedtovisitPiriacsurMer.Itwasnotoriginallyonourrouteplanbutwethoughtitworthalook.Themarinadriesatlowwaterwithaplateauthatextendsforoveramiletothenorthandwest.ThepilotbookgivesaccessasHW±3hours,butitisworthcheckingthewebsiteasthefiguresgivenaremoregenerous.WedepartedIledeGroixat11:30andwendedourwaythroughthesouthernhazardsoftheQuiberonPeninsularandnorthoftheislandsofHouatandHoedic.WearrivedshortlybeforeHW,whereweweremetbyharbourstaff,whodirectedustoaberth.Inthevisitor’sareathereisalongpontoontostarboardandseveral,goodsizedfigureberthstoport.ThevillageofPiriacisveryaRracOvewithseveralbarsandrestaurantsalongtheharbour-sideandpreRynarrowstreets.

PiriacsurMertoIled’Yeu–Monday17thJune–41miles

AlthoughPiriacisworthalongervisitwewerekeentopressonandsoleWshortlyaWerbreakfast.ThewindwasF4–F5fromtheSWwhichproducedagoodswell.Therewasalotofspray,but‘Magic’managedthecondiOonswellandwearrivedatPortJoinville,Iled’YeuinOmeforlunch.

Asyouentertheharbouryoupassthelongbreakwaterandthenhardtoportintothemarina.AsthereareferriesoperaOng,keepaneyeopenfortheredlightsthatcontrolacOvity.

Whenwearrived,themarinawasfairlyempty,withplentyofspace,bothalongsidePontoonAandonthefingerberthsonPontoonB.WeoriginallyOedupon‘A’butwhenwecheckedin,weweretoldthatalargefleetofyachtswasexpectedlaterinthedayandwewererecommendedtomovetoafingeronpontoon‘B’.WewerepleasedwedidsoasbytheeveningboatswereraWedup5deep.ThemarinastaffareveryhelpfulandareledbyLesley,whohailsfromScotland,solanguageisnoproblem.Iled’YeuisalovelyislandwithaMediterraneanfeel,thebuildingsaremostlypaintedwhiteandhaveredOledroofs.Weenjoyedsiangintheharboursidebars,havingadrinkandwatchingtheworldgoby.Intheeveningweenjoyedamemorablemealat‘Restaurant9’.Ontheseconddaywerentedelectricbikesandcycledrightroundtheisland.Theislandisfairlyflat,soitwaseasygoing.Infact,cycles,ofmanyshapesandsizes,arethemainformoftransport,withveryfewcars.Weweretoldthatatthepeakoftheseason,thereareover30,000bikesontheroads.

Iled’YeutoLaRochelle–Wednesday19thJune–59milesWeknewthatthegateintotheVieuxMarinaatLaRochelledidnotopenunOl16:45sowedepartIled’Yeuaround11:00,whichwouldgiveusOmetomakethepassageandcallintoLesMinimesMarinaforfuel.WefoundthefuelpontooneasilyandOedup.ThepumpswereagaincontrolledbyCreditCard,thisOmeallowing€300.00valueataOme.ThismeantseveraltransacOonsaswewantedtohavefulltanksforthereturnpassage.AWerwehadcompletedourprocess,weweretoldthatthefuelpumpattheendofthepontoon,nearesttheentrancetothemarina,isnotrestricted.Butbythenitwastoolate!TheMinimesisavastmarina,fineifyouarejuststoppingonroutebutwewereheadingforVieuxPortwhichisrightinthemiddleofthetown.ThereareinfacttwoareastotheVieuxPort,theBassináFlot,mainlylocalboatsandvisitors<10MandtheBassindesChaluOers>12M.Thebasinisaccessedbyagatewhichopens2hr30beforeHWunOl1hr30aWerHWandabridgewhichliWsseveralOmesoverthisperiod.TimesforthebridgeliWsareavailablefromthehRps://www.portlarochelle.comwebsite.WhilewaiOngforentry,hangbackfromtheentrance,astherewillinvariablybeboatsexiOngandtheywillneedspacetomanoeuvre.TheBassindesChaluOershastwolongpontoons,onedowneachsideofthemarinaandacentralpontoonwithfingerberths,theseareall12metreslongsothereisplentyofspace.Whenwewerethereitwasnevermorethan2/3rdfullbutisworthcheckingaheadtomakesurethatthereisnobigeventplanned.

LayoverinLaRochelleThursday20th

June–Saturday6thJulyIhadbeenaccompaniedonthefirstpartofmycruise,bymygoodfriendPaulFrampton.TheplannowwasforustoleavetheboatinLaRochelleandtoflyhome.TherearetwoflightsaweektoSouthamptonandonwardflightstoGuernsey.Thereisagoodbusservice,fromclosebythemarina,totheairport,withafareofonly€1.50.IwouldthenhaveafewdaysathomebeforeflyingbackwithAnnonthefollowingTuesday.Annwaswithmeforelevendays,beforesheflewhomeandmybrotherMikeflewoutfromBristol,readyforthecruisebacktoGuernsey.LaRochelleisavibrantcitywithlotsofnarrowstreets

toexplore;themarinaissurroundedbybarsandcafeswhereyoucansitandwatchtheworldgoby.Therearelotsofrestaurantscrowdedaroundthemainharbour,buttheseseemedabittouristy.Wefoundtwo,notfarfromthemarinathatwepreferred-LaMarée,whichisjustbytheAquariumandanItalianrestaurant,RagazzidaPeppone,inRueSaintNicolas.

DuringourOmeinLaRochellewemadetwo,daytrips.Firstly,bybustoIledeRéandthenonanotherday,bytraintoRochefort.ThetriptoIledeRégaveusachancetoexplorethemarinaatStMarOndeRé,itisquitesmallbutinalovelylocaOonandwellworthavisit.WewerenotimpressedbythemarinaatRochefort,fullofboatsthathadnotmovedforyears,althoughthetownwasworthavisit.

LaRochelletoIled’Yeu-Sunday7thJuly–54milesOuroriginalplanwastostayinLaRochelleunOlMonday8thJuly,butwehadlearntthatPortJoinville,Iled’Yeu,wasexpecOnganotherlargeyachtrally,sowedecidedtoleaveLaRochelleontheSundayandgetacomfortableberth,whilewecould.

WeleWLaRochelleonthesecondbridgeliWandwehadapleasant,four-hourcruise,arrivinginOmeforlunch.Themarinawasbusierthatonourlastvisit,butwefoundaconvenientfingerberthandOedup.ThataWernoonwewererelaxinginthecockpitwhenIheardmynamecalled,friendsChrisandJanePinkarrivedontheirNauOcat.ChrisandJanepreviouslyownedaSeaward35andwehadmettheminScotland,aswellonseveralSeawardRallies.

Nextday,weagainhiredelectricbikesandexploredtheisland.AlthoughIhaddonethisonthepreviousvisit,theislandissopreRyandtheelectricbikessoeasytoride,itwasnohardship.Whenwecamebackfromourridethemarinahadfilledwithnearly100yachtssoourdecisiontocomeadayearlyprovedcorrect.Mooredonthehammerhead,alongsideuswasPenDuick,thefirstofaseriesofyachtssailedbyFrenchyachtsmanEricTabarly.WefeltveryprivilegedunOlthecrewstartedsingingseashanOesat3inthemorning.

Iled’YeutoPortHaliguen–Wednesday10thJuly-51milesAWerbreakfastwereluctantlyleWIled’Yeu.OurdesOnaOonwasPortHaliguenontheQuiberonPeninsular,onthewaywedecidedtocallintothesmallislandofIled’Hoedic.Herethereisasmallharbourwithapontoonwithafewshortfingersandthenthreelargebuoys.MostofthevisiOngboatsraWonthesebuoys.Wedidn’tbothertoOeupbutjustdroppedtheanchorandenjoyedourlunch.WehadbeenwarnedthatthePortHaliguenwasintheprogressofmajorrefurbishmentanditwasnotclearwherethevisitor’sareawas,butwecalleduponCH9andweremetbytheharbourdoryanddirectedtoagood-sizedfingerberth.Theworkisinthefinalstagesandshouldbefinishedfornextseason.Theharbourofficehavebikesthatcanbeborrowed,freeofcharge,forafewhoursandwetookadvantageoftheseandcycledintothetownofQuiberon.ThisisatypicalFrenchseasideholidaytownwithfinebeachesandlotsofcafesandrestaurants.

PortHaliguentoÉtel–Friday11thJuly–16milesIhadreadabouttheRiverÉtelmanyOmesinthepilotbooksandtheytendtomakeitseemverycomplicatedwith“labyrinthinepilotage,maelstromsandstrongOdalstreams”.WewereenjoyingveryseRledweather,sowedecidedtotakealook.WefollowedtheguidancegivenandOmedourarrivalforlocalHW-1hour.Halfamileoff,wecalledtheSemaphoreStaOononCH13andasked,inourbestFrench,forpermissiontoenter.Weweretoldsimply“comestraightin”.

ThefloodOdewassOllrunningfairlystronglybutwasitnoproblem.Weweremetoutsidetheharbourandwereaskedifwewantedtoberthonthepontoonalongside,theoutsideoftheharbourwallorinsidetheharbour.Werequestedaninsideberth,whichisthebeRerchoice,asitisoutoftheOdalstreamandmuchquieter.Ételisalovelyvillage,arrangedalongtheriverside.ThereareseveralrestaurantsandbarsandweenjoyedafinemealinRestaurantLeBB.

Theharbourofficestaffareveryfriendlyandofferedusbikestoborrow,freeforuptothreehours,ortorentforlongerOmes.OnourseconddayinÉtelwedecidedtorentelectricbikesandcycledtoCarnactoseethestones,thousandsofprehistoricstandingstones.

ÉteltoBenodet–Saturday13thJuly–37milesWecreptoutofÉtelabouttwohoursbeforeH.W.andhadaboutametreunderthekeelasweslidoverthebar,thewindwasverylightandtherewashardlyaripple.WecruisedslowlywestwardandwerejoinedbyaschoolofDolphinforaOme.Wehadrefuelled,tofulltanks,inLaRochelleandnowhadtogivesomethoughttohowmuchfuelweneededtogetushome.WewerefamiliarwiththefuelpontoonatBenodetsodecidedtoput150litresinneachtank,whichwethoughtwouldbeenoughtogetustoGuernsey.Wewerepleasedwedidnotrequiremoreasthepricewas€1.74perlitre.Astheweatherwassocalm,wepickedupabuoyandspenttheeveninginthepeaceandquietoftheriver.

BenodettoL’AberWrac’h–Sunday14thJuly–66milesAWerarelaxingnight,mooredintheriveroffBenodet,wesetofftoreachtheRazdeSeinatslackwaterandbeforethenorthgoingstreamstartedtobuildinstrength.Wehadawayplanwiththeideatomakeasmuchdistanceaspossible.TheOdewouldcarryusnorththroughtheChenalduFourandthenwestalongthecoasttowardsRoscofforTreguier.However,asweapproachedChenalduFour,thewindincreasedinstrengthconsiderablyandasitwasstraightonthenose,itgaveuncomfortablewindagainstOdecondiOons,sowedecidedtodivertintoL’AberWrac’h.Theharbourwasverybusy,buttheharbourstaffdirectedustoaberthontheinsideofthesouthernwavebreak.ThewindhadincreasedtoagoodF5-F6,andastheberthwasintothewind,ittookacoupleofaRemptsbeforewecouldgetalineashoreandsecurelyOedup.

L’AberWrac’hisanaRracOveharbourandwellworthavisit.Itiswellplacedforbeginningapassagearound‘thecorner’toSouthBriRany.Manyboatsstayjustonenightbutitiswellworthalongerstay.Wespentnextmorningwalkingupintothevillageandthenback,tothemarina,aroundthecoast.IntheeveningweenjoyedaverygoodvaluemealattheL’EcaillerdesAbers.

L’AberWrac’htoStPeterPort–Tuesday16thJuly–107miles

TuesdaydawnedfineandseRledandwehadasmoothrunuptoGuernsey,afineendtooursummercruise.AswewereearlyforthesillopeningtoQEIImarina,wedroppedanchorinFermainBayandhadacupoftea.IampleasedtosaymycalculaOonsoffuelcapacitywerecorrectandalthoughwedidnothaveanexcessofdieselleW,Ireckonedwehadarangeof70milesinhand.ItwasapleasuretofillupnextweekinGuernseyatjust.58palitre.

SummaryofourCruise.

CruisingtheSouthBriRanyCoastisafantasOcexperience,therearesomanyinteresOngplacestovisit,marinasandriveranchorages,historictownsandmanyislands,allwiththeirowncharacters.

Wetravelledjustunder700milesonourtripandampleasedtobeabletosaythat“Magic”behavedherselfadmirably.Sheisalovelyboattocruiseon,withplentyofspacetolivecomfortablyandabletohandleanyseacondiOonsthatyoumayencounter.

Iwouldliketothankmycrewthatmadethetrippossible,PaulFrampton,onthewaytoLaRochelle;mybrother,MikeforhiscompanyonthewayhomeandAnnforhercompanionshipinLaRochelle.

IfyouareplanningtovisitNormandyorBriRanyisworthvisiOngthewebsite:

hRps://www.digimap.gg/marine/marinas/-hereyouwillfindawealthofinformaOon

ThereisalsoaFacebookGroup-Bri$any&NormandyGroup,FranceMarina-latestnewsispublishedherethatyouwillfinduseful.