The Best of Mexicoby David Baird, Lynne Bairstow, Juan Cristiano & Joy Hepp

Across Mexico, in villages and cities, in mountains, tropical coasts, and jungle set-tings, enchanting surprises await travelers. These might take the form of a fantasticsmall-town festival, delightful dining in a memorable restaurant, or even a stretch ofroad through heavenly countryside. Below is a starter list of our favorites, to whichyou’ll have the pleasure of adding your own discoveries.

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1 The Best Beach Vacations• Puerto Vallarta: Spectacularly wide

Banderas Bay is graced by 42km (26miles) of sandy beach. Some, such asPlaya Los Muertos—the popularpublic beach in town—abound withpalapa restaurants, volleyball players,and parasailers. The beaches of PuntaMita, the exclusive developmentnorth of Vallarta, have white-sand,crystalline waters, and coral reefs justoffshore. Others around the bay nes-tle in coves, accessible only by boat.Puerto Vallarta is the only beachtown in Mexico with an authenticcolonial feel as well as first-rate resortamenities. See “Puerto Vallarta,” inchapter 10.

• Puerto Escondido: The best overallbeach value in Mexico is principallyknown for its world-class surfingbeach, Playa Zicatela. The surround-ing beaches all have their own appeal;colorful fishing pangas dot the centraltown beach, parked under the shadeof palms leaning over so far theyalmost touch the ground. PuertoEscondido offers unique accommo-dations at excellent prices, withexceptional budget dining and

nightlife. See “Puerto Escondido,” inchapter 11.

• Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo: These side-by-side resorts afford beach-goers thebest of both worlds: serene simplicityand resort comforts. For travelersseeking to get back to basics, the bestand most beautiful beach is Playa LaRopa, close to Zihuatanejo. The widebeach at Playa Las Gatas, with itsrestaurants and snorkeling sites, isalso a great place to play. The high-rise hotels in Ixtapa, on the next bayover from Zihuatanejo, front PlayaPalmar, a fine, wide swath of beach.See “Northward to Zihuatanejo &Ixtapa,” in chapter 11.

• Cancún: Cancún and the coastline ofthe Yucatán state of Quintana Rooare home to Mexico’s most enticinglybeautiful beaches, with powderywhite-sand and water the color of aTechnicolor dream. Cancún also hasthe widest assortment of luxurybeachfront hotels, plus more restau-rants, nightlife, and activities thanany other resort destination in Mex-ico. See chapter 14.

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COPYRIG

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See Chapter 19

See Chapter 18

See Chapter 7

See Chapter 10

See Chapter 8

For Guadalajara,See Chapter 9

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Cancún

Barra de NavidadBarra de Navidad UruapanUruapan

PátzcuaroPátzcuaro

LeónLeón

ZihuatanejoZihuatanejo& Ixtapa& Ixtapa

ManzanilloManzanillo ColimaColima

Tapachula

Taxco

SalinaCruz

Villahermosa

Comitan

Valladolid

PuertoÁngel

Huatulco

Veracruz

Campeche

BacalarXalapa

Mérida

Chetumal

TuxtlaGutiérrez

Progreso

Celestún

Río Lagartos

San Cristóbal de las Casas

Catemaco

Tehuacán

MazatlánMazatlánFresnilloFresnillo

San BlasSan BlasTuxpanTuxpan

Puerto VallartaPuerto Vallarta

TijuanaTijuana

EnsenadaEnsenada

SanSanQuintinQuintin

MexicaliMexicali

CuauhtémocCuauhtémoc

Tampico

TepicTepic

QuerétaroPachuca

Monterrey

PuertoPuertoPenascoPenasco

ZacatecasZacatecas San San Luis Luis

PotosíPotosí

GuanajuatoGuanajuato

MoreliaMorelia

NogalesNogales

HermosilloHermosillo

GuerreroGuerreroNegroNegro

CiudadCiudadJuárezJuárez

Piedras Negras

DurangoDurango

OjinagaOjinaga

ChihuahuaChihuahua

Cabo San LucasCabo San Lucas

San José San José del Cabo del Cabo

San Miguelde Allende Tuxpan

Escárcega

Poza Rica

LoretoLoreto

Ciudad Ciudad ObregónObregón

DeliciasDelicias

HidalgoHidalgodel Parraldel Parral

MonclovaMonclova

SaltilloSaltillo

TorreónTorreón

Nuevo Laredo

Ciudad Victoria

Ciudad Mante

LosLosMochisMochis

CuliacánCuliacán

Acapulco

Puerto Escondido

Oaxaca

TlaxcalaPueblaPuebla

Orizaba

Coatzacoalcos

La PazLa Paz

MulegéMulegé

Todos SantosTodos Santos

AguascalientesAguascalientes

Cozumel

Punta Allen

Isla Mujeres

IslasIslasMariasMarias

IslaIslaCedrosCedros

Majahual Peninsula

Mexico City

Matamoros

LázaroLázaroCárdenasCárdenas

TolucaCuernavaca

Bay o fCampeche

Lake ChapalaLake Chapala

P A C I F I CP A C I F I CO C E A NO C E A N

Sea of CortésSea of Cortés

GuadalajaraGuadalajara

Palenque

Papantla

Santa Santa RosaliaRosalia

GuaymasGuaymas

LoretoLoreto

Playa delCarmen

COAHUILA

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Manzanillo Colima

MazatlánFresnillo

San BlasTuxpan

Puerto Vallarta

Tijuana

Ensenada

SanQuintin

Mexicali

Cuauhtémoc

Tepic

PuertoPenasco

Zacatecas San Luis

Potosí

Guanajuato

Morelia

Santa Rosalia

Nogales

Hermosillo

GuerreroNegro

CiudadJuárez

Durango

Ojinaga

Chihuahua

Cabo San Lucas

San José del Cabo

Loreto

Ciudad Obregón

Guaymas

Delicias

JiménezHidalgo

del ParralMonclova

Saltillo

Torreón

LosMochis

Culiacán

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La Paz

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Lake Chapala

P A C I F I CO C E A N

Guadalajara

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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F M E X I C O8

Mexico

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See Chapter 11

See Chapter 12

See Chapter 13

See Chapter 17

See Chapter 16

See Chapter 14

See Chapter 15

See Chapter 6

For Mexico City,See Chapter 5

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TapachulaTapachula

TaxcoTaxco

SalinaSalinaCruzCruz

VillahermosaVillahermosa

ComitanComitan

ValladolidValladolid

PuertoPuertoÁngelÁngel

HuatulcoHuatulco

VeracruzVeracruz

CampecheCampeche

BacalarBacalarXalapaXalapa

MéridaMérida

ChetumalChetumal

TuxtlaTuxtlaGutiérrezGutiérrez

ProgresoProgreso

CelestúnCelestún

Río LagartosRío Lagartos

San Cristóbal San Cristóbal de las Casasde las Casas

CatemacoCatemaco

TehuacánTehuacán

MazatlánFresnillo

San BlasTuxpan

Puerto Vallarta

Tijuana

Ensenada

SanQuintin

Mexicali

Cuauhtémoc

TampicoTampico

Tepic

QuerétaroQuerétaroPachucaPachuca

MonterreyMonterrey

PuertoPenasco

Zacatecas San Luis

Potosí

Guanajuato

Morelia

Nogales

Hermosillo

GuerreroNegro

CiudadJuárez

Piedras NegrasPiedras Negras

Durango

Ojinaga

Chihuahua

Cabo San Lucas

San José del Cabo

San MiguelSan Miguelde Allendede Allende TuxpanTuxpan

EscárcegaEscárcega

Poza RicaPoza Rica

Loreto

Ciudad Obregón

Delicias

Hidalgodel Parral

Monclova

Saltillo

Torreón

Nuevo LaredoNuevo Laredo

Ciudad VictoriaCiudad Victoria

Ciudad ManteCiudad Mante

LosMochis

Culiacán

AcapulcoAcapulco

Puerto EscondidoPuerto Escondido

OaxacaOaxaca

TlaxcalaTlaxcalaPueblaPueblaPueblaPuebla

OrizabaOrizaba

CoatzacoalcosCoatzacoalcos

La Paz

Mulegé

Todos Santos

Aguascalientes

CozumelCozumel

Punta Punta AllenAllen

Isla Isla MujeresMujeres

IslasMarias

IslaCedros

Majahual Majahual PeninsulaPeninsula

Mexico CityMexico City

MatamorosMatamoros

LázaroCárdenas

TolucaTolucaCuernavacaCuernavaca

Bay o fBay o fCampecheCampeche

Lake Chapala

P A C I F I CO C E A N

Sea of Cortés

Guadalajara

PalenquePalenque

PapantlaPapantla

Santa Rosalia

Guaymas

Loreto

Puebla

Playa delPlaya delCarmenCarmen

GUATEMALA

BELIZE

ELSALVADOR

HONDURAS

CHIAPAS

TABASCOVERACRUZ

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QUERÉTARO

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QUINTANAROO

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CAMPECHE

NUEVOLEÓN

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Cancún

Tapachula

Taxco

SalinaCruz

Villahermosa

Comitan

Valladolid

PuertoÁngel

Huatulco

Veracruz

Campeche

BacalarXalapa

Mérida

Chetumal

TuxtlaGutiérrez

Progreso

Celestún

Río Lagartos

San Cristóbal de las Casas

Catemaco

Tehuacán

Tampico

QuerétaroPachuca

Monterrey

Piedras Negras

San Miguelde Allende Tuxpan

Escárcega

Playa delCarmenPoza Rica

Nuevo Laredo

Ciudad Victoria

Ciudad Mante

Acapulco

Puerto Escondido

Oaxaca

TlaxcalaPueblaPueblaPuebla

Orizaba

Coatzacoalcos

Cozumel

Punta Allen

Isla Mujeres

Majahual Peninsula

Mexico City

Matamoros

TolucaCuernavaca

CaribbeanSea

G u l f o f M e x i c o

Gulf ofTehuantepec

Bay o fCampeche

Palenque

Papantla

T H E B E S T B E A C H VA C AT I O N S 9

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• Isla Mujeres: There’s only one mainbeach here—Playa Norte—but it’ssuperb. From this island, you candive El Garrafón reef, snorkel off-shore, and take a boat excursion tothe Isla Contoy national wildlifereserve, which features great birdingand a fabulous, uninhabited beach.See “Isla Mujeres,” in chapter 15.

• Tulum: Fronting some of Mexico’sbest Caribbean beaches, Tulum’ssmall palapa hotels afford guests a lit-tle slice of paradise far from crowdsand megaresorts. The bustling townlies inland; the coast is quiet andshould remain so, because all thehotels there are small and have togenerate their own electricity. If youcan pull yourself away from the surf,you’ll find nearby ruins to exploreand a vast nature preserve as well. Seechapter 16.

• Playa del Carmen: “Playa” is Mex-ico’s hip beach destination with apronounced mañana attitude. Aboveall, it’s easy and low key. You walk tothe beach, you walk back to the hotel,you walk to one of the many goodrestaurants. Next day, you repeat.The sand is white; the water is clearblue and ideal for swimming. If you

want more variety, you’ll find thatancient Mayan ruins, Cozumel, andthe megaresort of Cancún are nearenough to round out your beachvacation. See “Playa del Carmen,” inchapter 16.

• La Paz: This state capital borders alovely beach, dotted with colorfulplaygrounds and lively open-airrestaurants. Take a cue from the localresidents, though, and pass on swim-ming here in favor of the exquisitebeaches just minutes from down-town. La Paz’s beaches and the isletsjust offshore have transformed thistranquil town into a center for div-ing, sea kayaking, and other adven-ture pursuits. See “La Paz: PeacefulPort Town,” in chapter 19.

• Los Cabos: Dramatic rock forma-tions and crashing waves join forceswith wide stretches of soft sand androlling surf breaks. Start at PlayaPalmilla and work your way downthe Tourist Corridor to the famedLovers’ Beach at Land’s End. Somebeaches are more appropriate for con-templation than for swimming,which isn’t all bad. See “Los Cabos:Resorts, Watersports & Golf,” inchapter 19.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F M E X I C O10

2 The Best Cultural Experiences• Passing Time in the Plazas & Parks:

All the world may be a stage, butsome stages have richer backdropsthan others. Town plazas are the placeto sit and watch daily Mexican lifeunfold before your eyes. Alive withpeople, these open spaces are no mod-ern product of urban planners, but arerooted in the traditional Mexicanview of society. Several plazas arestandouts: Veracruz’s famous zócalo(see chapter 13) features nearly non-stop music and tropical gaiety. Onelook tells you how important

Oaxaca’s zócalo (see chapter 12) is tothe local citizenry; the plaza is remark-ably beautiful, grand, and intimate allat once. Mexico City’s Alameda (seechapter 5) has a dark, dramatic his-tory—heretics were burned at thestake here during the colonialperiod—but today it’s a people’s parkwhere lovers sit, cotton-candy vendorsspin their treats, and the sound oforgan grinders drifts over the chang-ing crowd. San Miguel de Allende’sJardín (see chapter 7) is the focalpoint for meeting, sitting, painting,

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and sketching. During festivals, it fillswith dancers, parades, and elaboratefireworks. Guanajuato and Queré-taro (see chapter 7) have the coziestplazas, and Mérida’s El Centro (seechapter 17), can’t be beat on Sundays.

• Música Popular: Nothing reveals thesoul of a people like music, and Mex-ico has given rise to various styles,which you can hear in many differentsettings. You can hear brassy mari-achi music in the famous Plaza deGaribaldi in Mexico City (see chap-ter 5), under the arches of El Pariánin Tlaquepaque, and in other parts ofGuadalajara (see chapter 9). Or per-haps you want to hear romanticboleros sung to the strumming of aSpanish guitar, or what Mexicans callmúsica tropical and related cumbias,mambos, and cha-cha-chas (see chap-ter 14).

• Regional Folk Dancing: From theBallet Folklórico in Mexico City tothe Ballet Folclórico in Guadalajara(see chapters 5 and 9) or the almost-nightly park dances in Mérida (seechapter 17), Mexican folk danceevents are diverse and colorful expres-sions of Mexican traditions.

• Fireworks: Mexicans share such apassion for fireworks and such a cav-alier attitude toward them that it’s a

good thing the buildings are stoneand cement, or the whole countrywould have burned down long ago.Many local traditions surround fire-works, and every festival includes adisplay. The most lavish are the largeconstructions called castillos, and thewildest are the toros that men carryover their shoulders while runningthrough the streets, causing festival-goers to dive for cover.

• Strolling El Malecón: Whereverthere’s a seafront road, you’ll find elmalecón bordering it. This is generallya wide sidewalk for strolling, com-plete with vendors selling pinwheelsand cotton candy. In some places, ithas supplanted the plaza as a center-piece of town life. The best examplesare in Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlán (seechapter 10), La Paz (see chapter 19),Cozumel (see chapter 15), and Ver-acruz (see chapter 13).

• Regional Fairs: Almost every cityand town has its regional fair (feriaregional). They showcase the bestproducts of the region—tequila orfruit liquors, livestock, carved silver,or clay handicrafts. One of the mostnotable regional fairs is La Feria delCaballo in Texcoco, which takes placein late March or early April.

T H E B E S T A R C H A E O L O G I C A L S I T E S 11

3 The Best Archaeological Sites* Teotihuacán: It’s so close to Mexico

City, yet centuries away. You cansense the majesty of the past in astroll down the pyramid-linedAvenue of the Dead, from the Pyra-mid of the Sun to the Pyramid of theMoon. Imagine what a fabulous placethis must have been when the wallswere stuccoed and painted brilliantcolors. See “A Side Trip to the Pyra-mids of San Juan Teotihuacán,” inchapter 5.

• Monte Albán: A grand ceremonialcity built on a mountaintop overlook-ing the valley of Oaxaca, Monte Albánaffords visitors panoramic vistas; a fas-cinating view of a society in transition,reflected in the contrasting methods ofpyramid construction; and intriguingdetails in ornamentation. See “OaxacaCity,” in chapter 12.

• Palenque: Like the pharaohs ofEgypt, the rulers of Palenque builttombs deep within their pyramids.

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Imagine the magnificent ceremony inA.D. 683 when King Pacal wasentombed in his magnificent burialchamber, which lay unspoiled untilits discovery in 1952. See “Palenque,”in chapter 12.

• Ek Balam: Archaeologists at this sitehave made the most astonishing dis-coveries of the decade. Ek Balam’smain pyramid is taller than ChichénItzá’s, and it holds a sacred doorwaybordered with elaborate stucco fig-ures of priests and kings and richiconography. See “Ek Balam: DarkJaguar,” in chapter 17.

• Uxmal: No matter how many timesyou see Uxmal, the splendor of its

stone carvings is awe-inspiring. Astone rattlesnake undulates across thefacade of the Nunnery complex, and103 masks of the rain god Chaacproject out from the Governor’sPalace. See “The Ruins of Uxmal,” inchapter 17.

• Chichén Itzá: Stand beside the giantserpent head at the foot of El Castillopyramid and marvel at the architectsand astronomers who positioned thebuilding so precisely that shadow andsunlight form a serpent’s body slither-ing from the peak to the earth at eachequinox (Mar 21 and Sept 21). See“The Ruins of Chichén Itzá,” inchapter 17.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F M E X I C O12

4 The Best Active Vacations• Scuba Diving in Cozumel & along

the Yucatán’s Caribbean Coast: Thecoral reefs off Cozumel, Mexico’s pre-mier diving destination, are amongthe top five dive spots in the world.See chapter 15. The Yucatán’s coastalreef is part of the second-largest reefsystem in the world and affords excel-lent diving. Especially beautiful is theChinchorro Reef, 32km (20 miles)offshore from Majahual or Xcalak.You can also dive in the clear, coolwater of the many caverns and cenotes(sinkholes, or natural wells) that dotthe interior. See chapter 16. Otherexcellent dive sites are in and aroundPuerto Vallarta and off Los Cabos.See chapters 10 and 19.

• Fly-Fishing off the Punta AllenPeninsula: Serious anglers will enjoythe challenge of fly-fishing the salt-water flats and lagoons of AscensionBay, near Punta Allen. See “Tulum,Punta Allen & Sian Ka’an,” in chap-ter 16.

• Hiking & Horseback Riding in theCopper Canyon: Miles and miles of beautiful, remote, challenging

canyon lands are paradise for the seri-ous hiker or rider. Canyon Travel(& 800/843-1060 in the U.S.; www.canyontravel.com) can set hikers upwith a Tarahumara Indian guide, whocan take you deep into the canyons toplaces rarely viewed by tourists. DougRhodes of Paraíso del Oso (& 800/884-3107 in the U.S.) leads tours ofexperienced horseback riders on a 12-day ride that tests a rider’s skill inmountainous terrain. It has to be themost challenging ride in NorthAmerica. See “The Copper CanyonTrain & Stops along the Way,” inchapter 18.

• Golf in Los Cabos & Puerto Val-larta: Puerto Vallarta, with its sevenchampionship courses, is the new des-tination for golfers to watch—and aneighth course will open in fall of2008 with the addition of PuntaMita’s second Jack Nicklaus Signaturecourse. Added to the appeal of golfhere are courses within easy drivingdistance along the Pacific Coast at ElTamarindo, Isla Navidad, and Man-zanillo. See chapter 10. The Corridorbetween San José del Cabo and Cabo

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San Lucas is one of the world’s pre-mier golf destinations, with sevenchampionship courses and a total of207 holes slated for the area. Seechapter 19.

• Surfing Zicatela Beach in PuertoEscondido: This world-class break isa lure for surfers from around theglobe. It challenges the best in thesport each September and October,when the waves peak and the annualsurf competitions take place. Seechapter 11. Other noted surf breaksin Mexico include Sayulita, PuntaMita, and Las Islitas Beach near SanBlas (all north of Puerto Vallarta);Playa Costa Azul, on the outskirts ofSan José del Cabo; and “Killers” atTodos Santos Island in northern Baja.See chapters 10 and 19.

• Sportfishing in La Paz: Billfishingfor magnificent marlin and sailfish ispopular in southern Baja, and La Pazpulls in the most consistent share. Seechapter 19. Fishing is excellent in LosCabos, Mazatlán, Manzanillo, andZihuatanejo too. See chapters 10, 11,and 19.

• Sea Kayaking in the Sea of Cortez:From Cabo San Lucas to La Paz, andcontinuing north, the Sea of Cortez isa sea kayaker’s dream. It has dozens oftiny coves and impressive inlets topull into and explore, under thewatchful gaze of sea lions and dol-phins. Professional outfitters providegear, guides, and instruction fornovices. See chapter 19.

T H E B E S T O F N AT U R A L M E X I C O 13

5 The Best of Natural Mexico• Michoacán’s Million Monarch

March: Mexico is an exotic land, andno place drives this home more force-fully than a mountain forest whereyou stand surrounded by the flutter-ing wings of millions of monarchbutterflies—it’s like being in a fairytale. The setting is the rugged high-lands of Michoacán, from mid- tolate November through March. See“Morelia,” in chapter 8.

• Whale-Watching: Each winter,between December and April, mag-nificent humpback and gray whalesreturn to breed and instruct theiryoung in the waters of Banderas Bay,fronting Puerto Vallarta, and in LosCabos. See “Puerto Vallarta” in chap-ter 10, and “Los Cabos: Resorts,Watersports & Golf,” in chapter 19.

• Sea Turtle Nesting Beaches:Between June and November, sea tur-tles return to the beaches of theirbirth to lay their eggs in nests on thesand. With poaching and naturalpredators threatening these species,

communities along Mexico’s Pacificcoast have established protected nest-ing areas. Many are open for publicviewing and participation in the eggcollection and baby-turtle releaseprocesses. Turtles are found along theYucatán coast, in Baja Sur, on theOaxaca coast, in Puerto Vallarta, andon Costa Alegre. See chapters 10, 16,and 19.

• Lago Bacalar (Yucatán Peninsula):The waters of this crystal-clear,spring-fed lake—Mexico’s secondlargest—are noted for their vibrantcolor variations, from pale blue todeep blue-green and turquoise. Thearea surrounding the lake is knownfor birding, with over 130 speciesidentified. See “Lago Bacalar” inchapter 16.

• The Rugged Copper Canyon: Thecanyons, known collectively as theCopper Canyon, are beautiful,remote, and unspoiled. The entirenetwork is larger than the Grand

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Canyon; it incorporates high water-falls, vertical canyon walls, mountainforests in the canyon-rim country, andsemiarid desert inside the canyons.This is the land of the TarahumaraIndians, who gained their legendaryendurance from adapting to thiswilderness. See chapter 18.

• Desert Landscapes in Baja Sur: Thepainted-desert colors and unique

plant life are a natural curiosity inLos Cabos, where horseback, hiking,and ATV trips explore the area. Thearid desert contrasts sharply with theintense blue of the strong sea sur-rounding the peninsula. See “LosCabos: Resorts, Watersports & Golf,”in chapter 19.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F M E X I C O14

6 The Best Places to Get Away from It All• Costa Alegre: Between Puerto Val-

larta and Manzanillo, a number ofultra-exclusive hotels cater to thosewith both excessive time and money.These resorts, such as HotelitoDesconocido, Las Alamandas, HotelCareyes, and El Tamarindo are milesfrom civilization on private beaches.See “Costa Alegre: Puerto Vallarta toBarra de Navidad,” in chapter 10.

• San Sebastián: A 15-minute flightfrom Puerto Vallarta takes you a cen-tury back in time. The colonialmountain town of San Sebastián usedto be the center of Mexico’s miningoperations; today, it’s simply a placeof delicious seclusion in a magicalmountain setting. See “Puerto Val-larta,” in chapter 10.

• Punta Mita: Its ancient inhabitantsconsidered the northern tip of theBay of Banderas sacred ground.Today, the point where the Sea ofCortez, the Pacific Ocean, and Ban-deras Bay meet has evolved into Mex-ico’s most exclusive residential resortdevelopment. The beaches are whiteand the waters crystalline. See“Puerto Vallarta,” in chapter 10.

• Riviera Maya & Punta Allen Penin-sula: Away from the popular resort ofCancún, the Riviera Maya’s heavenlyquiet getaways offer tranquillity atlow prices on beautiful palm-linedbeaches. South of the Tulum ruins,

Punta Allen’s beachside budget innsare among the most peaceful get-aways in the country. See chapter 16.

• Lago Bacalar: The spring-fed watersof Lake Bacalar make an ideal placeto unwind. South of Cancún, nearChetumal, there’s nothing around formiles. If you want adventure, you canpaddle a kayak on the lake, follow abirding trail, or venture to Belize ornearby Maya ruins. See “LagoBacalar,” in chapter 16.

• Cerocahui: Up in the high SierraTarahumara, far from where the largetours stop, you’ll find a peaceful littletown surrounding a former mission.Nearby are two small hotels that areeven more peaceful—no phones, nocrowds, no traffic, just beautifulmountains and canyons clothed inpine forest. See “The Copper CanyonTrain & Stops along the Way,” inchapter 18.

• Cabo Pulmo: It’s only a 60-miledrive from the Los Cabos airport toCabo Pulmo, yet if the moundedSierra de La Laguna peaks weren’t adead giveaway for Baja, you could bein the South Pacific. Swaying in theshade of a palapa-roofed bungalow atCabo Pulmo Beach Resort, you won’tcare where you are—you just won’twant to leave. The Sea of Cortezbreaks on a coral reef, allowing onlythe finest bits of sand and smooth

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pebbles to pad the coast. The coralitself is a sight to behold, but the realattraction is the sea life in this protected marine park. Extensive

hiking/mountain biking trails loopthrough the mountains for those whoprefer the peace of the desert. Seechapter 19.

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7 The Best Art, Architecture & Museums• Museo Nacional de Antropología:

Among the world’s most outstandingmuseums, the Museum of Anthropol-ogy in Mexico City contains richesrepresenting 3,000 years of the coun-try’s past. Also on view are fabulousartifacts of still-thriving indigenouscultures. The award-winning building,designed by architect Pedro RamírezVázquez, is stunning. See p. 130.

• Palacio Nacional: Mexico’s nationalcenter of government overlooks oneof the three biggest public squares inthe world (the zócalo) and was origi-nally built in 1692 on the site ofMoctezuma’s “new” palace, to be thehome of Hernán Cortez. The topfloor, added in the late 1920s, holds aseries of stunning Diego Riveramurals depicting the history of Mex-ico. See p. 132.

• Palacio de Bellas Artes in MexicoCity: The country’s premier venuefor the performing arts, this fabulousbuilding is the combined work of sev-eral masters. The exterior is early-20th-century Art Nouveau covered inmarble; the interior is 1930s ArtDeco. See p. 134.

• The Templo Mayor’s Aztec Splen-dor: The Templo Mayor and Museodel Templo Mayor constitute anarchaeological excavation andmuseum with 6,000 objects on dis-play. They showcase the variety andsplendor of the Aztec Empire as itexisted in the historic center of whatis now Mexico City. See p. 132.

• Catedral Metropolitana: This tow-ering cathedral, begun in 1567 andfinished in 1788, blends baroque,

neoclassical, and Mexican chur-rigueresque architecture, and was con-structed primarily from the stones ofdestroyed Aztec temples. See p. 136.

• Santa Prisca y San SebastiánChurch: One of Mexico’s mostimpressive baroque churches, com-pleted in 1758, this church in Taxcohas an intricately carved facade, aninterior decorated with gold-leafedsaints and angels, and paintings byMiguel Cabrera, one of Mexico’s mostfamous colonial-era artists. See p. 166.

• La Parroquia in San Miguel deAllende: Inspired by Europeangothic, but lighter and more cheerful;this fanciful church is like a fiestacaptured in stone—especially at nightwhen it’s illuminated. See p. 196.

• Murals of José Clemente Orozco inGuadalajara: Of the great Mexicanmuralists of the Revolutionaryperiod, Orozco is perhaps the mosttechnical and the most expressive ofhis generation’s concerns. To see hisimage of Hidalgo bearing down onyou from the ceiling of the grandstaircase of the Palacio de Gobierno isto understand almost instantly whathe and his compañeros were striving toaccomplish. See p. 274.

• Museo Virreinal de Guadalupe: Sixkilometers (4 miles) southeast ofZacatecas in the small town ofGuadalupe, this Franciscan conventand art museum holds a striking col-lection of 17th- and 18th-centurypaintings by such masters as MiguelCabrera and Cristóbal de Villalpando.The expressive, dramatic works willfascinate art lovers. See p. 238.

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• Morelia’s Cathedral: Sober lines,balanced proportions, a deft blendingof architectural styles, and monu-mental height—Morelia’s cathedral isthe most beautiful in the country. It’sbuilt of brownish-pink stone thatturns fiery rose in the late-afternoonsun. See p. 252.

• Museo Pantaleón Panduro inTlaquepaque: The peoples of Mex-ico have always placed a high valueon pottery as a field of artisticachievement. It’s a cultural continu-ity that spans from pre-Columbiantimes to the present. And thismuseum is perhaps the greatest sin-gle expression of this love for pot-tery. Its collection holds prizedpieces from the yearly nationalceramics competition. See p. 289.

• Museo Antropología de Xalapa:Along with the finest examples ofOlmec and Totonac sculpture andceramics, this museum includes thebest collection of the Olmec mega-lithic heads. See p. 513.

• Puebla’s Capilla del Rosario: In thechurch of Santo Domingo, thischapel is a tour de force of baroqueexpression, executed in molded plas-ter, carved wood, Talavera tile, andgold leaf. The overall aim is to over-power the senses. See p. 500.

• Puebla’s Museo Amparo: Thismuseum contains a magnificent col-lection of pre-Columbian and colo-nial art, which is beautifullydisplayed. See p. 502.

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8 The Best Shopping• Bazar del Sábado in San Angel:

This festive Saturday market in andaround Plaza San Jacinto in colonialSan Angel, one of Mexico City’s moreexclusive southern neighborhoods,offers exceptional crafts of a moresophisticated nature than you’ll see inmost mercados. Furnishings, antiques,and collectibles are also easy to findin surrounding shops and streetplazas. See p. 148.

• Polanco, Mexico City: This fashion-able neighborhood is noted for itsdesigner boutiques, formal dressshops, fine jewelers, and leather-goods offerings. Avenida PresidenteMasaryk is Mexico City’s equivalentof Rodeo Drive. See “Shopping,” inchapter 5.

• Contemporary Art: Latin Americanart is surging in popularity. Galleries inMexico City feature Mexico’s mastersand emerging stars. Oaxaca, PuertoVallarta, and San Miguel de Allendegalleries also have excellent selections.See chapters 5, 7, 10, and 12.

• Taxco Silver: Mexico’s silver capital,Taxco, has hundreds of stores featur-ing fine jewelry and decorativeobjects. See “Taxco: Cobblestones &Silver,” in chapter 6.

• Talavera Pottery in Puebla &Dolores Hidalgo: An inheritor of theMoorish legacy of ceramics, Pueblaproduces some of the most sought-after dinnerware in the world. And thetiles produced there adorn buildingfacades and church domes throughoutthe area. See chapter 13. DoloresHidalgo, 40km (25 miles) northwestof San Miguel de Allende, producesattractive, inexpensive Talavera of lesstraditional design. See “San Miguel deAllende,” in chapter 7.

• San Miguel de Allende’s DiverseCrafts: Perhaps it’s the influence ofthe Instituto Allende art school, butsomething has given storekeepers heresavvy about choosing their merchan-dise. The stores have fewer typicalarticles of Mexican handicrafts andmore interesting and eye-catching

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works than you’ll find in other towns.See “San Miguel de Allende,” in chap-ter 7.

• Pátzcuaro’s Fine Crafts: Michoacánis known for its crafts, and Pátzcuarois at the center of it all. You can findbeautiful cotton textiles, woodcarv-ings, pottery, lacquerware, wovenstraw pieces, and copper items in themarket, or you can track the object toits source in one of the nearby vil-lages. See “Pátzcuaro,” in chapter 8.

• Decorative Arts in Tlaquepaque &Tonalá: These two neighborhoods ofGuadalajara offer perhaps the mostenjoyable shopping in Mexico.Tlaquepaque has attracted sophisti-cated and wide-ranging shops thatsell a wide variety of decorative art. InTonalá, more than 400 artisans haveworkshops, and you can visit many ofthem; on market days, wanderthrough blocks and blocks of marketstalls to find that one perfect piece.See “Shopping,” in chapter 9.

• Huichol Art in Puerto Vallarta:One of the last indigenous cultures

to remain faithful to their customs,language, and traditions, the Hui-chol Indians come down from theSierra Madre to sell their unusual artto Puerto Vallarta galleries. Inspiredby visions received during spiritualceremonies, the Huichol create theirart with colorful yarn or beadspressed into wax. See “Shopping,” inchapter 10.

• Oaxacan Textiles: The valley of Oax-aca produces the best weavings andnaturally dyed textiles in Mexico; it’salso famous for its pottery, and color-ful, imaginative woodcarvings. See“Oaxaca City,” in chapter 12.

• The Markets of San Cristóbal delas Casas: This city, deep in the heartof the Maya highlands, has shops,open plazas, and markets that sell dis-tinctive waist-loomed wool and cot-ton textiles, leather shoes, localpottery, genre dolls, and Guatemalantextiles. See “San Cristóbal de lasCasas,” in chapter 12.

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9 The Best Luxury Hotels• Condesadf (Mexico City; & 55/

5241-2600): The city’s trendiesthotel sits in the hip urban neighbor-hood of Condesa. In an early 20th-century French building, it combinesArt Nouveau with contemporarydesigns, and features one of the city’shottest restaurants and rooftop bars.See p. 119.

• Hotel Four Seasons (Mexico City;& 800/332-3442 in the U.S.): Thestandard of excellence in Mexico, andthe most classically luxurious optionin Mexico City, this hotel capturesserenity and elegance in a palace-stylebuilding that surrounds a picturesquecourtyard. Bonuses include the gra-cious staff and unique cultural tourson offer. See p. 116.

• W Mexico City (Mexico City; & 877/946-8357 in the U.S.): Styl-ish and high-tech, this W is where theyoung and cool come to stay. With itssuper-caliente red hues and lively bar,the W Mexico City has infused thecountry’s capital with a dose of mini-malist urban chic. Luxury extrasinclude expansive bathrooms withcircular tubs. See p. 114.

• Villa Montaña (Morelia; & 800/223-6510 in the U.S., or 800/448-8355 in Canada): The Villa Montañadefines perfection. From the layout ofthe grounds to the decoration of therooms, every detail has been skillfullyhandled. The hotel perches on a ridgethat overlooks Morelia; from its ter-races, guests can survey the city

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below. The restaurant is one of thecity’s best. See p. 256.

• Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita(north of Puerto Vallarta; & 800/332-3442 in the U.S.): This luxuryresort offers an unrivaled location (ona remote, pristine stretch of beach)and the stellar service characteristic ofthe Four Seasons chain. Also on-siteare an expansive spa and a privateJack Nicklaus Signature golf course.See p. 340.

• El Tamarindo (between Manzanilloand Puerto Vallarta; & 315/351-5032): The most exclusive remoteresort in Mexico, this stylish placecombines large private casitas facingthe Pacific with a stunning privateoceanfront golf course. Guests arelikely to be Hollywood celebritiesand rich folk from around the world.It’s about 1 hour north of Manzanilloalong Costa Alegre. See p. 362.

• La Casa Que Canta (Zihuatanejo; & 888/523-5050 in the U.S.): Thisis one of Mexico’s most romanticspots, an unforgettable boutiquehotel where music plays throughoutthe open-air corridors. Palapa-styleguest rooms have their own furnishedoutdoor terraces, many with privateplunge pools overlooking the sea.The food, service, and amenities hereare as good as it gets. See p. 414.

• The Tides (Zihuatanejo; & 888/389-2645 in the U.S.): This stun-ning hotel sits on one of Mexico’scalmest and most beautiful beaches.Modern rooms and suites overlookthe bay or a man-made lagoon, andmany have private plunge pools. It’s aluxurious retreat you won’t want toleave. See p. 414.

• Ritz-Carlton Cancún (Cancún; & 800/241-3333 in the U.S.):Thick carpets, sparkling glass andbrass, and rich mahogany surroundguests at this hotel, for years the stan-dard-bearer of luxury in Cancún. The

service is impeccable, leaving guestswith an overall sense of pamperedrelaxation. And, post–HurricaneWilma, the Ritz received a significantmakeover. See p. 538.

• Le Méridien Cancún Resort & Spa(Cancún; & 800/543-4300 in theU.S.): This is the most intimate ofthe luxury hotels in Cancún, with anunderstated sense of highly personal-ized service. Most notable is its 4,570sq. m (49,190-sq.-ft.) Spa del Mar.See p. 537.

• JW Marriott (Cancún; & 800/223-6388 in the U.S.): This extraordinaryresort offers sophistication withoutpretense. Its free-form infinity pool isone of the most impressive anywhere,and the spa is one of Cancún’s best.Service is outstanding. See p. 537.

• Presidente InterContinental Cozu-mel (Cozumel; & 800/327-0200 inthe U.S., or 987/872-9500; www.cozumel.intercontinental.com):Redesigned after the hurricane, thissecond edition of the hotel includessome impressive upgrades, includingredesigned rooms, a large secondpool, and more services. And, asbefore, it has all that coastline whereyou can stretch out on some sand andforget about life back home for awhile. See p. 582.

• Maroma (north of Playa del Carmen;& 866/454-9351 in the U.S.): Youcan’t ask for a better setting for aresort than this beautiful stretch ofCaribbean coast with palm trees andmanicured gardens. You’ll start torelax before you even take the first sipof your welcome cocktail. Service isvery attentive, and the rooms are lux-urious. See p. 592.

• Hacienda Xcanatún (outskirts ofMérida; & 888/883-3633 in theU.S.): Large, boldly designed suitesbuilt with extravagance in mind,extensive grounds, private spa, excel-lent restaurant, and ample staff—this

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hotel does the difficult trick of beingsmall in size but large in offerings. See“Of Haciendas & Hotels,” on p. 642.

• Las Ventanas al Paraíso (Los Cabos;& 888/767-3966 in the U.S.): Stun-ning in its relaxed elegance, Las Ven-tanas has a deluxe European spa,excellent gourmet restaurant, and ele-gantly appointed rooms and suites.From fireplaces and telescopes to private pools and rooftop terraces,each suite offers a slice of heaven. Seep. 713.

• Esperanza (Los Cabos; & 866/311-2226 in the U.S.): This Auburgeresort pampers guests in a desert-chicsetting, on a bluff overlooking twincoves below. Spacious, sumptuous

rooms are enhanced by ample ter-races, and the resort’s spa and diningservices make a stay here even morememorable. See p. 713.

• One&Only Palmilla (Los Cabos; & 800/637-2226 in the U.S.): Apopular Mexican resort with the Hol-lywood crowd, the completely reno-vated Palmilla has reclaimed its rankas the most deluxe hotel in this sea-side playground known for sumptu-ous quarters and great golf. Theexceptional spa, fitness center, andyoga garden, as well as a restaurantunder the direction of renowned chefCharlie Trotter, are added bonuses.See p. 714.

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10 The Best Inexpensive Inns• Best Western Hotel Majestic

(Mexico City; & 800/528-1234 inthe U.S.): This historic building andformer home of Augustinian friarsoffers exceptionally clean, comfort-able, value-priced lodgings. It’s on LaAlameda park, near the Palace of FineArts and the Franz Mayer Museum.See p. 118.

• Holiday Inn Zócalo (Mexico City;& 888/465-4329 in the U.S.): Thisunique Holiday Inn is one of thecity’s most charming hotels. Locatednext to the capital’s historic centralsquare, it’s decorated in a colonialMexican style with colorful art,antiques, and handicrafts. See p. 119.

• Hotel San Francisco Plaza(Guadalajara; & 33/3613-8954):This two-story colonial-style hotel isa more agreeable place to stay thanlodgings that cost twice the price, andit’s every bit as comfortable. It’s in thedowntown area, near the main plazaand several good restaurants andnightspots. See p. 280.

• Hotel Los Flamingos (Acapulco; & 744/482-0690): Once a private

club for Hollywood’s elite, this hotelwill enchant you with its pervasivemidcentury charm, funky profusionof hot pink, and breathtaking cliff-top views. See p. 396.

• Paraíso Escondido (Puerto Escon-dido; & 954/582-0444): This eclec-tic inn is a great bargain, especiallyfor the originality of the decor andthe excellent service. It’s a short walkto the beach and the action alongPuerto’s main drag. See p. 428.

• Misión de los Arcos (Huatulco; & 958/587-0165): Just 1 block fromthe central plaza, this hotel has a sim-ilar style to the elegant Quinta Real,at a fraction of the cost. An all-whitefacade and intriguing decorativetouches give it an inviting feel.There’s shuttle service to the Huat-ulco beaches. See p. 441.

• Las Golondrinas (Oaxaca; & 951/514-3298): We receive more favorableletters about this hotel than about anyother in the country. It’s small, simple,and colorful, with homey touches offolk art and pathways lined with abun-dant foliage. See p. 459.

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• Casa Na-Bolom (San Cristóbal; & 967/678-1418): This beautifulcolonial house was once the homeand office of Frans and Trudy Blomand a gathering place for anthropolo-gists interested in the region’s variousethnic groups. It is now a museumand library full of materials about theregion and its indigenous peoples.Rooms have fireplaces and are deco-rated in local fashion. See p. 486.

• Rey del Caribe Hotel (Cancún; & 998/884-2028): An ecologicaloasis in downtown Cancún, this hotelhas considered every detail to achievean organic and environmentally

friendly setting. Amid a tropical gar-den, it’s a welcome respite from theparty-hearty crowd, with sunnyrooms, warm service, yoga and medi-tation classes, and healthful dining.See p. 541.

• Cabo Inn (Cabo San Lucas; & 619/819-2727 in the U.S. or 624/143-0819): This former bordello is thearea’s best budget inn. Rooms aresmall but extra clean and invitinglydecorated, amenities are generous,and the owner-managers are friendlyand helpful. Ideally located, close totown and near the marina, the inncaters to sportfishers. See p. 726.

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11 The Best Spa Resorts• El Santuario Resort Spa (Valle de

Bravo; & 726/262-9100): The suitesat this spa resort, built into the footof a quartz mountain, overlook a vastlake. A 1,858-sq.-m (20,000-sq.-ft.)spa offers a wealth of therapies, plusyoga, Pilates, Tai Chi, and meditationclasses. See p. 174.

• Misión Del Sol Resort & Spa(Cuernavaca; & 777/321-0999 inthe U.S.): Mexico’s finest spa resort,with every architectural and func-tional detail designed to soothe bodyand soul—from meditation rooms toreflexology showers to magnets underyour mattress. The sumptuous, full-service spa and fitness center anddelicious vegetarian cuisine make thisa heavenly base for personal renewal.See p. 182.

• Paradise Village (Nuevo Vallarta; & 800/995-5714): Excellent fitnessfacilities combined with pampering-yet-affordable spa services make thisone of the best all-around spas inMexico. It actively promotes the ben-eficial properties of indigenous Mexi-can spa therapies and naturaltreatments. See p. 337.

• Hotel Ixtapan Spa and Golf Resort(Ixtapan; & 800/638-7950 in theU.S.): In operation since 1939, thisresort is a classic, traditional spa withconsistently upgraded amenities andservices. It’s also close to the region’srenowned thermal baths. See p. 172.

• Le Méridien Cancún Resort & Spa(Cancún; & 800/543-4300 in theU.S.): The Spa del Mar is a state-of-the-art, 1,400 sq. m (15,069-sq.-ft.)facility bordering the brilliantCaribbean. It boasts the most com-plete spa in the area, with inhalationrooms, saunas, steam, Jacuzzis, coldplunges, Swiss showers, a cascadingwaterfall whirlpool, and 14 treatmentrooms. See p. 537.

• ME (Cancún; & 866/436-3542 inthe U.S.): The ultrachic Yhi Spa ofCancún’s new ME hotel overlooksthe ocean and offers body glows andexfoliations, aromatherapy massages,body masks, and wraps—this is aplace to indulge yourself until you’reconvinced that you’ve landed inheaven. See p. 540.

• Casa de los Sueños Resort & SpaZenter (Isla Mujeres; & 998/877-0651). This luxury B&B has a small

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but well-appointed spa and “Zenter,”which is also accessible to nonguests.Highlights include yoga classes, mas-sages, and holistic spa treatments,which take place either indoors orout, in one of the most tranquilplaces you’ll find. See p. 564.

• The Tides Riviera Maya (& 800/578-0281 in the U.S. and Canada);Maroma (& 866/454-9351 in theU.S.); and Paraíso de la Bonita(& 866/751-9175 in the U.S.): Thearea north of Playa del Carmen,around Puerto Morelos, is a hotbedof spa-resort luxury. These threeestablishments, in lovely settings,offer guests an impressive range ofpampering treatments. See p. 593,592, and 593, respectively.

• One&Only Palmilla (Los Cabos; & 800/637-2226 in the U.S.):

Home to Mexico’s most extravagantspa, 13 private treatment rooms setamid gardens offer the most pamper-ing array of services, complementedby a yoga garden, fitness center, andclasses designed to put you in touchwith—or indulge—your inner self.See “The Best Luxury Hotels” above,and p. 714.

• Rancho La Puerta (Baja Norte; & 800/443-7565 in the U.S.): Oneof Mexico’s best-known spas, RanchoLa Puerta is a spa-vacation pioneer,having opened its doors (at the time,tent flaps) in 1940. A steady streamof guests returns to this pristinecountryside for the constantlyexpanding facilities, spa services, andoutdoor opportunities. See p. 755.

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12 The Best Mexican Food & Drink• Aguila y Sol (Mexico City; & 55/

5281-8354): One of the world’s bestMexican restaurants, the recentlyexpanded Aguila y Sol serves hauteMexican cuisine incorporatingindigenous and pre-Hispanic ingredi-ents. Acclaimed chef-owner MarthaOrtiz has written many cookbooks,and her magical dishes brim withimagination. See p. 121.

• La Opera (Mexico City; & 55/5512-8959): This legendary cantina, in thestyle of an opulent European cafe, hasattracted the capital’s most illustriouspersonalities for decades—PanchoVilla shot a still-visible hole throughthe roof. In the historic center, itdoubles as a restaurant, but it’s best as a late afternoon watering hole. Seep. 125.

• El Sacromonte (Guadalajara; & 33/3825-5447): Various dishes delightthe senses with novel tastes and tex-tures and skillful presentation. The

menu describes each dish in Spanishcouplets. See p. 282.

• Adobe Fonda (Tlaquepaque; & 33/3657-2792): Delicious Mexicanfood is served inside one of those gor-geous decorative arts stores that lineTlaquepaque’s Calle Independencia.The point of departure for the food iswith some uncommon Mexicanrecipes, which are then givensparkling Italian and Argentineaccents. See p. 281.

• El Arrayán (Puerto Vallarta; & 322/222-7195): The colorful atmospheremay be casual, funky, and fun, butthe food is seriously and authenticallyMexican. The owner, Carmen, hastaken her prime beef filet tacos off themenu—wanting guests to try moretraditional Mexican fare—but youcan still ask for them. Or, take hercue and order the duck confit,shrimp pozole, or homemade icecreams from indigenous fruits. Don’t

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miss her martini made from raicilla,Mexico’s version of moonshine. Seep. 327.

• El Mirador (Acapulco, in the HotelPlaza Las Glorias; & 744/483-1221in the U.S.): You can enjoy a greatmargarita at many places in Mexico,but this is the only one that servesthem with a view of the spectacularLa Quebrada cliff divers. See p. 389.

• Zibu (Acapulco; & 744/433-3058):This chic open-air restaurant com-bines Mexican and Thai architecturaland culinary styles to create one ofthe nation’s best dining experiences,including a breathtaking view of thesea. See p. 398.

• Los Flamingos (Acapulco; & 744/482-0690): If you’re in Acapulco ona Thursday, you can enjoy a bowl ofpozole, a traditional hominy and meatstew. Although you’ll find it served atlunchtime throughout town, the bestplace to savor it is at Los Flamingos’cliff-top restaurant. Order a CocoLoco to accompany it, and you’re infor a real treat. See p. 396.

• La Habichuela (Cancún City; & 998/884-3158): In Cancún’s original downtown, this gourmetseafood restaurant is a romanticretreat off the beaten path. An expertwaitstaff attends to the diners seated

in the restaurant’s lovely garden patio.See p. 546.

• Mariscos Villa Rica Mocambo (Ver-acruz; & 229/922-2113): Nobodyelse does seafood the way Veracruzdoes seafood, and this restaurant isthe showcase for the region’s cuisine.See p. 522.

• La Pigua (Campeche; & 981/811-3365): Campeche’s regional specialtyis seafood, and nowhere else will youfind seafood like this. Mexican caviar,coconut-battered shrimp, and chiliesstuffed with shark are just a few of thespecialties. Thinking about La Pigua’spompano in a fine green herb saucemakes me want to start checkingflight schedules. See p. 665.

• Don Emiliano (downtown San Josédel Cabo; & 624/142-0266): DonEmiliano wields farm-fresh ingredi-ents laced with Mexican tradition andemerges from the kitchen with mod-ern delights such as stepped-up chileen nogada for Día de Independenciaand lemon atole with candied pump-kin for Day of the Dead. Apart fromholiday menus, don’t miss the regularmenu, which combines the likes oflocally made cheeses with roastedtomatillos and dried hibiscus flowerswith beef tenderloin. See p. 710.

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