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The Best of Brazil
There’s a joke Brazilians like to tell: When the world was created, one of thearchangels peered over God’s shoulder at the work in progress and couldn’t help notic-ing that one country had been especially favored. “You’ve given everything to Brazil,”the archangel said. “It has the longest beaches, the largest river, the biggest forest, thebest soil. The weather’s always warm and sunny, with no floods, hurricanes, or natu-ral disasters at all. Don’t you think that’s a little unfair?” “Ah,” God replied, “just waituntil you see the people I’m putting there.”
Accuracy rarely comes with a punch line, but there’s a significant grain of truth inthat tale. Brazil as a nation is unusually blessed. Five thousand miles of coastline—some of it packed with cafes and partygoers, but long stretches blissfully empty. Rain-forests and wetlands teem with exotic critters. Some of the oldest cities and civicarchitecture in the New World (and one of the newest cities in the entire world) arehere. Restaurants match the snobbiest standards, with regional cuisines that have yetto be discovered in culinary capitals like New York or L.A. Music lovers could makeBrazil a lifetime study. And let’s not forget a little thing called Carnaval.
And about those Brazilians: They work as hard as anyone in the First World, andmany a good deal harder. In recent years Brazil has devoted time and resources toimproving its tourism infrastructure, reflected in the new airports, hotels, and innsthat have sprung up around the country. Yet no one could accuse Brazilians of wor-shipping efficiency. They’d much rather get along than get things done; the goal is,above all, harmony. Harmony can mean an entire Sunday spent watching soccer, orafternoons off for quality time with your buddies at the beach. It can mean countlesshours of effort for a single night’s party. But above all, harmony mandates never tak-ing anything all that seriously. And at this, Brazilians excel. Read on to discover someof the best this country has to offer.
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1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences• Attend Carnaval in Rio: The biggest
party in the world, whether youdance it on the streets, watch thou-sands participate with their elaboratecostumes in the samba parade, orattend the fairy-tale CopacabanaPalace ball. It’s the one event not tomiss! See chapters 2 and 5.
• Watch a Soccer Game at MaracanãStadium: Nothing can prepare you fora game at the largest stadium in the
world. Up to 100,000 fans sing, dance,and drum for hours in one of thebiggest parties in town. See chapter 5.
• Get to Know Pelourinho: The his-torical center of Salvador is a treasureof baroque churches, colorful colonialarchitecture, steep cobblestone streets,and large squares. See chapter 9.
• Hear the Drummers in Pelô: At nightthe historic heart of Salvador comesalive with music. Most impressive are
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the Blocos Afro, the all-percussionbands that create a rhythm and beatwith their drums so intensely it sendsshivers down your spine. See chapter 9.
• Herd Water Buffalo in Marajó: Thebuffalo ranches on this island in themouth of the Amazon offer city slick-ers a unique cowboy experience. Rid-ing out on horseback, visitors toFazenda Sanjo help farm hands roundup the water buffalo herd and bring itback to the ranch. See chapter 14.
• Watch the Sunset Over the LençóisMaranhenses: The magical snow-white dunes interlaced with strings ofturquoise, blue, and green lagoonsmake one of the most spectacularsights in all of Brazil. See chapter 13.
• Kayak in the Amazon: To explorethe rainforest in depth, nothing beats
a slow descent of an Amazon tribu-tary; the kayak provides the freedomto view the rainforest at leisure, guidesexplain the workings of this ecosys-tem, and cooks prepare meals of deli-cious Amazon fish. See chapter 14.
• Admire the Modernist Architectureof Brasilia: Built from scratch in amatter of years on the red soil of thedry cerrado, Brasilia is an oasis ofmodernism in Brazil’s interior. Marvelat the clean lines and functional formsand admire some of the best public artin the country. See chapter 15.
• Get Drenched at Amazing IguaçuFalls: These falls consist of 275cataracts along a 2.5km (11⁄2-mile)stretch of the Iguaçu River. The water’spower mesmerizes as you stare into theroiling cauldrons. See chapter 16.
T H E B E S T B E A C H E S 7
2 The Best Beaches• Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro: Yes, this is
one of the most urban beaches in theworld, but it’s still one of the country’sprime tanning spots. The long stretchof white sand is perfect for observingthe tan and lovely (male and femalealike). Or watch a game of volleyballwhile having a beer and some freshseafood; if you feel like it, go for aswim or a stroll. See chapter 5.
• Praia dos Castelhanos, Ilhabela:Ilhabela’s prime unspoiled beach islong and wild and completely unde-veloped; mountains covered inuntouched Atlantic rainforest providea stunning backdrop. Access is byboat or over a bumpy rutted track,but the views are more than worth it.See chapter 8.
• Boipeba, Bahia: The perfect islandgetaway, Boipeba makes Morro deSão Paulo seem busy and hectic. Justsouth of Morro, Boipeba offers glori-ous empty beaches framed by rowsand rows of palm trees. At Boca daBarra, where the river Inferno meets
the ocean, huge sand banks appear atlow tide. You can choose whether toswim on the freshwater side or play insalty ocean. See chapter 9.
• Porto de Galinhas, Pernambuco:Development in Porto de Galinhashas been kept resolutely small-scale.No high-rises mar the unpretentioustown of Porto de Galinhas, whichboasts perhaps four streets—enoughfor a dozen restaurants, a bank, somesurf shops, and a beachside bar ortwo. See chapter 10.
• Ponta Negra, Manaus: Not an oceanbeach but a river beach, Ponta Negra,on the shores of Rio Negro, is the mostpopular tanning spot in the dry season.All the standard beach accoutermentsare present, including vendors plyingfood, drinks, and souvenirs. Beachkiosks serve up snacks until the weehours. See chapter 14.
• Fernando do Noronha: The islandarchipelago of Fernando do Noronhahas so many spectacular beaches, it’shard to single out just one. Praia do
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80° W 60° W
0°
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Equator See Chapter 14
C O L O M B I AC O L O M B I A
V E N E Z U E L AV E N E Z U E L AGUYANAGUYANA SURINAME FRENCH
GUIANA (FRANCE)
E C U A D O RE C U A D O R
P E R UP E R U
B O L I V I AB O L I V I A
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MATO GROSSODO SUL
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RIO DEJANEIRO
SANTACATARINA
RIO GRANDEDO SUL
RORAIMARORAIMA
B R A Z I L I A NH I G H L A N D S
P A N T A N A L
A N D E S
A N D E S
A T A C A M AA T A C A M AD E S E R TD E S E R T
AN
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DE
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AN
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S G U I A N AG U I A N A
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A T L A N T I CO C E A N
A T L A N T I CO C E A N
P A C I F I CP A C I F I CO C E A NO C E A N
A m a z o n
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pa
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ngu R
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Santos
São Paulo
BrasíliaGoiânia
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BuenosAires
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ArequipaArequipa
CuscoCusco
RioRioBrancoBranco
PôrtortoVelhoVelho
GuayaquilGuayaquil
MedellMedellín
Asunción
Uberlândia
Santa FeSanta Fe
ResistenciaResistencia
CochabambaCochabamba
IquitosIquitos
CaliCali
AntofagastaAntofagasta
ValparaisoValparaiso
Foz do Iguaçu
Rio de Janeiro
Corumbá
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ragu
ai
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Parque Nacional dosLençóis Maranhenses
C O L O M B I A
V E N E Z U E L AGUYANA
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B O L I V I A
A R G E N T I N A
PA R A
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á
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Resistencia
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(Tran
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4
3 3
BRAZIL IN 1 WEEK Days 1–3: Rio de JaneiroDays 4 & 5: SalvadorDays 6 & 7: Iguaçu Falls
BRAZIL IN 2 WEEKSDays 1–3: Rio de JaneiroDays 4–6: SalvadorDays 7–11: The AmazonDay 12: TransitDays 13 & 14: Iguaçu Falls
BRAZIL FOR NATURE LOVERS Days 1 & 2: Rio de JaneiroDays 3–6: PantanalDays 7–12: AmazonDays 13–16: Fernando de NoronhaDays 17 & 18: Iguaçu Falls
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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B R A Z I L8
Brazil
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40° W
0°
40° W
20° S
Tropic of Capricorn
Equator
See Chapter 17
See Chapter 16
See Chapter 19
See Chapter 6
See Chapter 15
See Chapter 9
See Chapter 10
See Chapter 11
See Chapter 12
See Chapter 13See Chapter 14
See Chapter 18
See Chapters 7 & 8
See Chapters 4 & 5
C O L O M B I A
V E N E Z U E L AGUYANA SURINAMESURINAME FRENCHFRENCH
GUIANA GUIANA (FRANCE) (FRANCE)
E C U A D O R
P E R U
B O L I V I A
G U A YG U A Y
A R G E N T I N A
URUGUAYURUGUAY
B R A Z I LB R A Z I L
PA R A
AMAZONAS
PARPARÁ
RONDÔNIAMATOMATO
GROSSOGROSSO
AMAPAMAPÁ
MARANHMARANHÃO
PIAUPIAUÍ
CEARCEARÁ
RIO GRANDERIO GRANDEDO NORTEDO NORTE
PA R APA R A Í B AB A
PERNAMBUCOPERNAMBUCO
ALAGOASALAGOASSERGIPESERGIPE
BAHIABAHIA
TOCANTINSTOCANTINS
GOIGOIÁS
MATO GROSSOMATO GROSSODO SULDO SUL
PARANPARANÁ
SÃOPAULOPAULO
MINASMINASGERAISGERAIS
ESPESPÍRITORITOSANTOSANTO
RIO DERIO DEJANEIROJANEIRO
SANTASANTACATARINACATARINA
RIO GRANDERIO GRANDEDO SULDO SUL
RORAIMA
B R A Z I L I A NB R A Z I L I A NH I G H L A N D SH I G H L A N D S
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SantosSantos
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CampoCampoGrandeGrande
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1
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T H E B E S T B E A C H E S 9
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Leão offers wild crashing surf and seaturtle hatchings in season. The mostgorgeously secluded is Praia da Baíado Sancho, a crescent of red sand onshimmering clear blue water that canonly be reached by clambering downa rickety iron ladder through a chasmin the cliff side. See chapter 18.
• Praia Mole, Florianópolis: PraiaMole is one of the most popularbeaches on the beautiful southern
island of Santa Catarina (aka Flori-anópolis). Perfectly white fluffy sand,lush green vegetation, and rocky out-crops give the beach an isolated, par-adisiacal feel. Yet, the strand isanything but quiet, packed with abohemian crowd of locals fromFloripa, yuppie tourists, surfers, gayand gay-friendly sunbathers, andfamilies. See chapter 19.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B R A Z I L10
3 The Best Outdoor Adventures• Hang Gliding in Rio: Running off
the edge of a platform with nothingbetween you and the ground 800m(2,624 ft.) below requires a leap offaith, so to speak, but once you do,the views of the rainforest andbeaches are so enthralling that youalmost forget about the ground untilyour toes touch the sand at São Con-rado beach. See chapter 5.
• Board, Kite, and Yacht Sailing inIlhabela: A gem of an island just anhour from one of the world’s largestcities, Ilhabela has wind, waves, andinfrastructure for any wind- or water-sport, be it yacht sailing, board sail-ing, or that new adrenaline kick ofkite surfing. The undeveloped eastcoast is thick with rainforest andlined with white-sand beaches. Seechapter 9.
• Hike or Bike the Chapada Diaman-tina: These highlands inland fromSalvador have rock formations similarto the buttes and mesas of the Ameri-can Southwest. They also have water-falls and natural waterslides of smoothred marble, plus lots of great hikingand biking trails. See chapter 9.
• Canoeing the Amazon: Just you anda canoe in the jungle. Your sensesheighten as you listen to the soundsof the forest, watch for splashes inthe water, and peer into the trees to
find birds, sloths, and monkeys. Seechapter 14.
• Tree Climbing in the Amazon For-est: Get off the river and delve intothe forest. Most visitors only see thetrees from the bottom up. Actuallyclimbing into the tree will give you awhole new perspective on the forestand its ecosystem. See chapter 14.
• Horseback Riding in the Pantanal:Too soggy to hike, the wet fields ofthe Pantanal are best explored onhorseback. And if you like it fast,there’s nothing like galloping throughthe fields, as a flurry of colorful birdsscatter and caiman scurry off under-foot. See chapter 17.
• Swimming in the Lençois Maran-henses: The end of the rainy seasonsignals the best time of year to visitthe dunes at Lençóis National Park.June to October, the dunes are full ofcrystal-clear freshwater lagoons. Aswim is the best reward for hikingthrough the desert of dunes. Seechapter 13.
• Swimming in the Waterfalls ofChapada dos Guimarães: The red-rock formations of this minicanyonhide some spectacular waterfalls nes-tled in small stands of lush tropicalforest. With dozens and dozens offalls and trails, it’s not hard to findone all for yourself. See chapter 17.
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• Diving in Fernando de Noronha:Brazil’s best diving is found on thissmall archipelago off the coast of Per-nambuco. See dolphins, turtles, manta
rays, and lots of underwater caves.Crowds are limited, because only 420visitors are allowed on the island atany given time. See chapter 18.
T H E B E S T M U S E U M S 11
4 The Best Encounters with Wildlife• Go, Turtles, Go! (Bahia): From mid-
February to April you have a goodchance to watch turtle hatchings atPraia do Forte Tamar’s turtle project.See how these tiny sea turtles crawlout of the egg, and cheer them on asthey waddle to the ocean for theirfirst swim. See chapter 9.
• Caiman Spotting (the Amazon):Spotting caimans (alligators native toSouth America) involves setting outin a canoe after the sun has set. Boat-ing through the dark Amazon forestis quite an experience, but nothingquite prepares you for the sight ofthose caiman eyes that light up in thebeam of the spotlight. See chapter 14.
• Butterflies in Iguaçu: Everyone talksabout the falls; few mention the but-terflies. The lush rainforest providesthe perfect environment for manycolorful species, and everywhere yougo lovely butterflies are aflutter. Hard
to miss is the metallic-blue Morphobutterfly; it’s about the size of yourhand. See chapter 16.
• Sea Horses in Porto de Galinhas:The roots of the mangroves in Portode Galinhas are home to one of themost magical sea creatures, the seahorse. Guides dive in the water to lookfor these delicate animals and are usu-ally successful in scooping one up (lit-erally, in a glass jar). Once you havehad a chance to learn a little bit moreabout the animal it goes back into itsnatural habitat. See chapter 10.
• Red Araras (the Pantanal): The sun-set over the red-rock formations inthe Chapada dos Guimarães, north ofCuiabá, is a magical experience initself. Even more special is the view ofscarlet macaws working the thermalsoff the sheer cliffs in the warm glowof the setting sun. See chapter 17.
5 The Best Museums• Museu Internacional de Arte Naif
do Brasil (Rio de Janeiro; & 021/2205-8612; www.museunaif.com.br):Don’t miss this little museum, just afew hundred yards from the Corcov-ado tram station. The practitioners ofnaive art (also called primitive oringénue art) paint from the heart, cre-ating colorful and expressive drawings.Visitors will recognize many popularscenes from Cariocas’s daily life—asoccer game at the Maracanã stadium,the samba parade, the beaches, andneighborhood cafes. See p. 106.
• Museu de Arte Sacra (Mariana; & 031/3557-1158: One of the best
collections of sacred art in Brazil canbe found in the small town of Mari-ana, just outside of Ouro Prêto. Thevast collection of impressive gold andsilver works is displayed in a gorgeousold colonial mansion. See p. 179.
• Monument to Latin America (SãoPaulo; & 011/3823-9611; www.memorial.org.br): Designed byfamed Brazilian architect OscarNiemeyer, the monument is, well, soNiemeyer—shy of a visit to Brasilia,it’s the best place to see Brazilianmodernism in all its concrete auster-ity. See p. 213.
• Pinacoteca do Estado (São Paulo; & 011/3229-9844): The Pinacoteca
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in São Paulo is the place to come foranyone who wants to see Brazilianart. The museum has an excellent col-lection of Brazilian art from the 19thand 20th centuries, including worksby Alfredo Ceschiatti, the artist whodesigned many of the sculptures inBrasilia. See p. 218.
• Museu de Arte Sacra (Salvador; & 071/3243-6310): One of thefinest museums in Salvador, the ArteSacra displays one of Brazil’s best col-lections of Catholic art. The artifactsare shown in the monastery adjoiningthe Igreja de Santa Teresa, a simple,beautiful building that is itself a work
of art. The collection includes oilpaintings, oratorios (small cabinetscontaining a crucifix or saint image),and amazing silver work. See p. 265.
• Forte das Cinco Pontas/Recife CityMuseum (Recife; & 084/3224-8492):Originally built by the Dutch in 1630and rebuilt by the Portuguese in 1677,the fort today has been magnificentlyrestored; you can wander the rampartsand explore at will. The city museum,which takes up two wings of the fort, iswell done. Two whole (air-conditioned)rooms are devoted to the Dutch period,and there’s a wealth of maps and draw-ings. See p. 317.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B R A Z I L12
6 The Best Festivals & CelebrationsWell, Carnaval—that’s an obvious choice(and already covered under “The MostUnforgettable Travel Experiences,”above). Here are some other favorites:
• Reveillon/New Year’s Celebration(Rio de Janeiro): Close to two millionpeople gather for one of the mostspectacular New Year’s celebrations inthe world. It starts on the evening ofDecember 31 and continues well intothe morning of January 1. The mainevent takes place on CopacabanaBeach—live music, fireworks, andthe muted Candomblé religious cere-monies. For details contact Riotur(& 021/2217-7575; www.rio.rj.gov.br/riotur) or Alô Rio (& 021/2542-8080). See chapter 5.
• São Paulo Bienal (São Paulo): Amust-see for lovers of art, theater,music, and architecture, the Bienal isthe biggest arts event in Latin Ameri-ca. It takes place every even year inIbirapuera Park (the next two takeplace in 2006 and 2008). Contact the Fundação Bienal de São Paulo (& 011/5574-5922). See chapter 8.
• Washing of the Steps of BonfimChurch (Salvador): One of the most
important religious ceremonies in Sal-vador takes place on the third Thurs-day of January when hundreds ofwomen in traditional Bahian dressform a procession and carry perfumedwater to wash the church steps;800,000 onlookers and revelersaccompany them. For details contactBahiatursa (& 071/3321-2463; www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br). See chapter 9.
• Celebration of Yemanjá, the God-dess of the Sea (Salvador): On Febru-ary 2, watch the devotees throughoutBrazil offer flowers, perfumes, andjewelry to the sea. Celebrated on thebeach with music and food. Thelargest celebration takes place in Sal-vador on Praia Vermelha. For detailscontact Bahiatursa (& 071/3321-2463; www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br).See chapter 9.
• Bumba-meu-boi (São Luis): A partythat gets the whole city involved, theBumba-meu-boi is a fascinating folkfestival centered around the story of abull that gets killed and resurrected.The festivities take place over severalmonths as there are several stages toeach part of the story. Contact the
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São Luis Tourist Office for details onwhat happens when (& 081/3462-4960). See chapter 13.
• The Passion Play (Nova Jerusalem,near Recife): South America’s largestpassion play takes place at Nova
Jerusalem, just outside of Recife in theNortheast of Brazil. Performances aredaily in the 10 days leading up toEaster. For details contact RecifeTourist Information (& 081/3462-4960 or 081/3341-6090). See p. 313.
T H E B E S T H OT E L S 13
7 The Best Views• Rio at Your Feet: Whether you hike,
drive, or take the cogwheel tram (ourpreferred method) to the top of Cor-covado Mountain, the view from justbelow Christ’s toes is stunning. Seechapter 5.
• Sugarloaf (Rio de Janeiro): It may bethe most visited tourist attraction intown—and tacky as hell—but viewsover the bay and the ocean beachesare tough to beat. If you don’t want tobe seen boarding the silly tram, youcan always hoof it up. See chapter 5.
• Elevator Lacerda (Salvador): Thecheapest ride in town (only US5¢),this Art Deco elevator whisks youfrom the lower town of Salvador tothe historic heart of the city. Views ofthe bay and the city are fantastic butquick. Linger at the top of the eleva-tor platform to savor the views, orsplurge and take another trip. Seechapter 9.
• Farol da Barra (Salvador): The viewat the foot of the lovely lighthouse onBarra beach is not of the city, but ofthe bay and most spectacular at sun-set when the red glowing ball dropsjust behind Itaparica Island, casting adeep red glow over the sparklingocean. See chapter 9.
• The TV Tower in Brasilia: It figuresthat in a modern town the views arehigh tech. The TV Tower, in the
center of the Eixo Monumental,offers spectacular views up and downthe main avenue, aligning buildingsthe way they were meant to be seenby architects. The famous big skysunsets of Brasilia make the view evenmore impressive, lending a hint ofcolor to the pale concrete of thebuildings. See chapter 15.
• Banespa Tower (São Paulo): The bestview of the biggest city in SouthAmerica is from atop the BanespaTower. Ascending to its 35th-floorobservation deck, you get an incredi-ble view—high-rise towers, 360degrees of them, filling every inch ofland for as far as the eye can see. Evenbetter, it’s free. See chapter 8.
• Peering into Iguaçu Falls: Get asclose as you can to the waterfalls atIguaçu and the power of the water ishypnotizing. Watch for those cuteswifts that manage to sneak in behindthe falls. See chapter 16.
• The Lookout at Araras Eco Lodge(Pantanal): A rickety wooden plat-form high above the Pantanal provides sweeping views of the sur-rounding fields. Monkeys play in thetrees—and if you have the time to sitpatiently, you’ll see hyacinth macaws,toucans, roseate spoonbills, andstorks fly by in the greatest natureshow on earth. See p. 445.
8 The Best Hotels• Hotel Sofitel (Rio de Janeiro; & 0800/
241-232 or 021/2525-1232): Consid-ered Rio’s best hotel, the Sofitel com-bines old-world elegance and style
with one of the city’s best locations,across from the Copacabana Fort andsteps from Ipanema. See p. 72.
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• Marina All Suites Hotel (Rio deJaneiro; & 021/2540-4990 or 021/2540-5212): The Marina All Suites isRio’s first design hotel; all suites areluxuriously furnished. The two-bed-room oceanview Diamante suite issurely the city’s most beautiful suite.See p. 69.
• Portinari (Rio de Janeiro; & 021/3288-8800): Designed by eight differ-ent Brazilian designers and architects,the hotel offers a wonderful showcaseof Brazilian style and inventiveness;everything from the furniture to thelighting and accessories is unique. Bestof all, this style doesn’t get in the way ofcomfort. See p. 73.
• Sheraton Rio Hotel & Towers (Riode Janeiro; & 0800/210-750 or 021/2274-1122): The Sheraton Rio is theonly hotel that’s really on the beach.No crossing the street; just walkdown the steps and you’re on thesand. See p. 68.
• Colonna Park Hotel (Búzios; & 022/2623-2245): On a hillside overlook-ing two beaches in Búzios, ColonnaPark has one of the best views in town.The elegantly furnished rooms aredone in cool blue and white, and thebest room in the house has a deck withviews of both beaches. See p. 161.
• Unique (São Paulo; & 011/3055-4700): Extraordinary high design,rooms and suites featuring the clean-est-of-clean white-on-white decor,luscious bedding, sparkling bath-rooms with Jacuzzi tubs, a plethora ofroom gadgets, plus a rooftop view of
the Avenida Paulista’s power sky-scrapers and lush green Ibirapuerapark. See p. 202.
• Marian Palace (São Paulo; & 0800/558-433 or 011/3228-8433): Builtin the ’40s by a Polish princess, theMarian Palace is a lovely Art Decogem. Wherever possible the furnitureand accessories (think lampshades,carpets, and even the colored-tilebathrooms) have been maintained.See p. 198.
• Tropical Manaus Eco Resort (Man-aus; & 0800/701-2670 or 092/3659-5000): The Tropical Hotel inManaus is without a doubt the hotelin town. Set in its own piece of rain-forest on the banks of the Rio Negro,the hotel is built in an elegant colonialstyle. Rooms are spacious, and theamenities are top-notch; archery les-sons, a zoo, wakeboard lessons, a wavepool, salon, and more await you in themiddle of the Amazon. See p. 375.
• Bourbon Foz do Iguaçu (Foz doIguaçu; & 0800/451-010 or 045/3529-0123): Make sure you don’tforget to see the falls! The BourbonHotel has plenty to keep you busy.Over 3km (2 miles) of trails throughorchards and tree nurseries are theperfect place to watch for toucans,butterflies, and parrots. The pooldeck has three large pools to soak upthose rays or an indoor wave pool andspa for a dreary day. Active types canplay a game of tennis, try the climb-ing wall, and play volleyball or soccer.See p. 432.
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9 The Best Pousadas• Pousada do Mondego (Ouro Prêto;
& 031/3551-2040): Wake up to theunforgettable view of Ouro Prêto’smost famous church, São Franciscode Assis, just outside your window.Early in the morning the surrounding
hills are often shrouded in mist. Seep. 176.
• Pousada Tankamana (Petrópolis; & 024/2222-9181): Nestled in thehills above Petrópolis, PousadaTankamana is a breath of fresh air.
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The luxury chalets with Jacuzzi tubsand fireplaces are perfectly cozy on acold winter day, just the kind of placeto stay put and finish that book you’vebeen trying to read. See p. 168.
• Solar da Ponte (Tiradentes; & 032/3355-1255): In the heart of Tira-dentes, one the most charming colo-nial villages, Pousada Solar da Ponteis a real retreat. The spacious antiquefurnished rooms look out over thecobblestone streets. The lovely gar-den, library, and sitting rooms areperfect for a relaxing day. A yummybreakfast is served in the dining roomoverlooking the garden. See p. 183.
• Porto Pacuiba Hotel (Ilhabela; & 012/3896-2466): On Ilhabela,this sprawling wooden mansion withits courtyards and walkways was builtaround tall mango trees. This oasis ofcomfort is an ideal home base forexploring the rest of the island. See p. 239.
• Pousada do Boqueirão (Salvador; & 071/3241-2262): This renovatedpousada on the edge of Salvador’sPelourinho has the charm of the 17thcentury and the convenience of the21st. The view from your personalveranda out of the Bay of All Saintswould be memorable in whatever cen-tury you found yourself. See p. 250.
• Pousada Santa Clara (Boipeba; & 075/3653-6085): For a romanticgetaway or just a few days of blissfulrelaxation, there’s no place better thanthis lovely pousada, on the smallisland of Boipeba south of Morro deSão Paulo. Each room is uniquelydecorated and many feature a verandaand large windows looking out over
the lush tropical garden. The nearlydeserted beach is only 5 minutesaway, if you walk slowly. See p. 296.
• Pousada do Amparo (Olinda; & 081/3439-1749): In the heart of Olinda’sold town, Pousada do Amaro is a perfectly restored 18th-century house.Set on a hillside, the views from therooms and back deck of Olinda, theocean below, and Recife in the back-ground are amazing. Elegantly fur-nished in period style, the pousada isa real labor of love of the owners. Seep. 307.
• Tabapitanga (Porto de Galinhas; & 081/3552-1037): The oceanfrontrooms of Tabapitanga are so close tothe beach that light sleepers may wantto close their veranda doors to keepthe sound of the waves out. All roomsfeature bright and cheerful artwork,king-size beds, and a veranda withhammock and lazy chair. See p. 323.
• Manary Praia Hotel (Natal; & 084/3219-2900): On the beach of PontaNegra in Natal, the Manary Praiaoffers luxurious and comfortableaccommodations. The hacienda-stylemansion is an excellent home base forexploring some of the best beaches inthe Northeast. See p. 330.
• Araras Eco Lodge (Pantanal; & 065/3682-2800): This lodge is the best inthe Pantanal for wildlife viewing andexperiencing the lifestyle of the pan-taneiro cowboy. Accommodations arerustic but the quality of guides, theamazing food, and unparalleledwildlife are worth it. The owner has ahistory of environmental work in theregion and runs an excellent pro-gram. See p. 446.
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10 The Best Dining Experiences• Experiencing Feijoada, the National
Dish: It’s impossible to single out onerestaurant in all of Brazil for its fei-joada. Just try it and try it right. Start
with a caipirinha (that potent, deli-cious lime and sugar-cane drink) andsome caldo (soup), followed bysteaming hot black beans with all the
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various meats. Side dishes includefarofa, cabbage, orange slices, andwhite rice. Dab a bit of malagueta pep-pers on the beans for an extra kick.
• Street Food: Whether you wantprawns, chicken, tapioca pancakes,coconut sweets, or corn on the cob, itcan all be purchased on the street fornext to nothing. Don’t be afraid to trysome of the best snacks that Brazilhas to offer.
• All Beef, All the Time: Rodíziochurrascarias are all-you-can-eat meatorgies. The best cuts of beef areserved up one after another; try oneor two, or try them all. As long as youcan take it they dish it out. Ourfavorite is surely picanha, the lean,tender rump steak—it will melt inyour mouth. One of the country’smost popular restaurants is the Por-cão, a nationwide chain. Their flag-ship location is in Rio’s Flamengoneighborhood (& 021/2554-8535),with views of the bay and SugarloafMountain. See p. 86.
• Colonial Coffee in Rio: For themost elegant coffee experience, visitConfeitaria Colombo (& 021/2221-0107). This 19th-century BelleEpoque establishment is one of themost beautiful salons in all of Brazil.See p. 82.
• Italian Cuisine in São Paulo: Forsome of the best Italian food in theworld (well, outside of Italy), head toSão Paulo’s Massimo (& 011/3284-0311). The city’s immigrants havecreated delicious new-world interpre-tations of some old-world classics.See p. 206.
• Moquecas in Salvador: You can’t sayyou’ve been to Salvador without try-ing moqueca, the tasty stew of freshseafood with coconut milk, limejuice, cilantro, and red dendê palmoil. Voted best regional restaurantyear after year, try Yemanjá (& 071/231-3036). See p. 260.
• Prawns on Ilhabela: Ilhabela has themost succulent, sweet, and juicyprawns in all of Brazil. Enjoy themgrilled, sautéed, or stuffed withcheese; this is as good as they come.See chapter 9.
• Fine Dining in Porto de Galinhas:Beijupirá (& 081/3552-2354), in asmall resort town in Brazil’s North-east, is perhaps one of the most pleas-ant little restaurants in the country.The decorations are whimsical andrustic, the food an inspired Braziliancuisine that makes use of freshseafood, tropical fruits, and spices.See p. 324.
• The Regional Cuisine of Belém:Located in the tropics, on the Ama-zon River but at the mouth of theocean, Belém has access to a richerassortment of ingredients than almostanywhere else in Brazil. Local chefsmake the most of the variety. Forregional cuisine, try Peixada da Terra(& 091/3212-9984). See chapter 14.
• Eating Fish in the Pantanal: Any-where in the Pantanal you can try thephenomenal bounty of the world’slargest flood plain. Paçu, dourado,and pintado are just a few of the bestcatches. In Cuiabá, visit PeixariaPopular (& 065/3322-5471). See p. 444.
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11 The Best Markets• Babilônia Feira Hype (Rio de
Janeiro; & 021/2236-7195): Locatedin the Jockey Club, the BabilôniaHippy Fair is an arts-and-crafts marketwhere you can listen to music, get a
shiatsu massage, design a henna tat-too, buy a nose ring, get yourselfpierced, and more (there’s more?). Seep. 135.
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• Feirarte (Rio de Janeiro): This craftsmarket on Rio’s most historic squarefeatures a range of artists showcasingtheir handiwork. There’s leatherwork,ceramics, glass, and silver, not tomention food and drink stands andless-talented vendors peddling moretouristy souvenirs. See p. 135.
• Antiques Fair (São Paulo): EverySunday from 10am to 5pm there’s anantiques fair in the open spacebeneath the MASP building onAvenida Paulista. Dealers are regis-tered, and the quality of the wares isoften good. See p. 216.
• Japanese Market (São Paulo): Oneof the largest Asian street marketstakes place every Sunday on thePraça da Liberdade (next to theLiberdade Metrô stop) in São Paulo’sLiberdade neighborhood. The city’sJapanese residents celebrate their heritage with an excellent and inex-pensive selection of Japanese cuisineand arts and crafts. See p. 223.
• Mercado Modelo (Salvador; & 071/3243-6543): Souvenir junkies willthink they’ve died and gone toheaven. In the former customs build-ing, this market has around 300 mer-chants selling a large variety ofsouvenirs: leather goods, hammocks,instruments, masks, carvings, paint-ings, lace, terra-cotta figurines, andjewelry. See p. 265.
• Mercado Adolpho Lisboa (Manaus;& 092/3233-0469): This beautifuliron-and-glass market hall is a greatplace to see exotic Amazonian fish,fruits, and vegetables. A number ofstalls have indigenous handicrafts atreasonable prices. See p. 379.
• The Ver-o-Peso Market (Belém; nophone): The Ver-o-Peso is a vastwaterside cornucopia of outrageouslystrange Amazon fish, hundreds ofspecies of Amazon fruits foundnowhere else, traditional medicinelove potions, and just about anythingelse produced in the Amazon, all of itcheap, cheap, cheap. See p.407.
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12 The Best Nightlife• Arco do Teles (Rio de Janeiro):
Tucked away in an alley just off thePraça XV, the Arco de Teles revealsperfectly preserved colonial buildingsset on narrow cobblestone streets,lined with restaurants and cafes. Withover 15 bars and botequins it doesn’tmatter which one you pick; walkaround and see what’s doing. If youget there after 10pm you’ll be luckyto find a seat at all. See p. 144.
• Carioca da Gema (Rio de Janeiro; & 021/2221-0043): One of thehottest nightspots in the city, Cariocada Gema offers some of the finest bossanova and samba. Just steps from theLapa aqueduct, Carioca da Gema isone of the many small music venues inthis funky bohemian neighborhood.
The best night to come is Thursday.See p. 140.
• Rua das Pedras (Búzios): The hottestbeach resort close to Rio, Búzios is theplace to go if you’re on a mission toparty. Nightlife central is on the Ruadas Pedras where the pubs, bars, dis-cos, and restaurants stay open onweekends until 3 or 4am. One of themost popular spots is the Mexican barand disco Zapata, very busy duringvacations and weekends. See p. 163.
• Skye (São Paulo; & 011/3055-4702): One of the city’s trendiestbars, Skye also comes with one of thebest views in the city. On the UniqueHotel’s top floor, the bar’s large glasswindows and pool deck offer spectac-ular skyline views of South America’slargest city. See p. 233.
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• Rabo do Peixe (São Paulo; & 011/3845-2296): If there is such a thingas a typical Brazilian pub, this is it.On a street corner, the patio fans outon all sides, and tables are packedevery day. A great spot to kick offyour evening with a cold beer and thebest picanha in town. See p. 235.
• Pelourinho (Salvador): Pelourinhotransforms itself into one big musicvenue every night of the week. Withdozens of cafes and bars there’s alwaysa new band or singer to check out,and a few of the squares have stagesset up for performances. Two of themost popular venues are the PraçaQuincas Berro D’Agua and the LargoPedro Archanjo. See chapter 9.
• The Reviver (São Luis): Now that it’sbeen brought back to life, the historic
downtown of São Luis has a newname—Reviver. It’s packed with barsand restaurants that center aroundthe Rua da Estrela. One of prettiest isAntigamente (& 098/3232-3964).Most tables spread out on the side-walk and there’s live music everyevening. See p. 365.
• Rua das Tabajaras (Fortaleza): Oneof the liveliest nightlife areas in Fort-aleza is this narrow street that paral-lels the waterfront in Praia deIracema. On Monday nights, Piratas(Rua dos Tabajaras 325; & 085/3219-8030) is the place to be. Eventhough the crowd consists of mostlytourists it’s a great party. On anyother night of the week the street ispacked with people heading out fordinner or drinks. See p. 353.
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