The 25 Best Restaurants in Spain

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Top 50

The 25 best restaurants and the 25 best gastrobars in Spain

In association with

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Of the 25 restaurants, 8 are in the Basque Country, 6 in Catalonia, 3 in Ma-drid, 2 in Castile-La Mancha, 2 in Asturias, 2 in Andalusia, 1 in the Valencia region, and 1 in Extremadura.

Others establishments have received high ratings in some of the guides. In Catalonia: the Hispania, Lasarte and Vía Veneto. Madrid: Horcher, La Terraza del Casino and Zalacaín. Basque Country: Guggenheim. Navarra: Rodero. Balearic Islands: Tristán. Canary Islands: M. B. de Martín Berasategui. In most of these cases the owner is also the head chef.

Some top restaurants, grouped by Autonomous Communities, do not figure among the best 25. In Aragón: La Venta del Soto and Taberna de Lillas Pastia. Cantabria: El Cenador de Amós. Castile & León: Estrella del Bajo Carrión, Vivaldi and Ramiro’s. Galicia: Casa Marcelo and Solla. La Rioja: El Por tal de Echaurre. Murcia: La Cabaña. Navarra: Rodero and Maher. Balearic Islands: Tristán and Es Molí d’en Bou. Canary Islands: M.B and El Duende.

In the selection of the 50 Best Restau-rants in the World there are five from Spain: El Bulli, Can Roca, Mugaritz, Arzak and Mar-tín Berasategui. And between places 50 and 100 are Etxebarri, Pedro Subijana, Carme Ruscalleda-Sant Pau, Quique Dacosta and Can Fabes.

The 25 Best Restaurants in SpainHere is a selection of the �5 best Spanish restaurants, compiled by Rafael Ansón, a great culinary expert (page �4).


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AkelArreThere are several reasons to justify a trip to this restaurant, founded by Pe-dro Subijana in 1970. One is its location, atop Monte Igueldo, with magnificent views over San Sebastián and the Bay of Biscay from its lovely panoramic dining room, modern and elegant. Another is the love of cooking that Pedro brings to his creations, which are full of innovation and personality, dishes based on excellent raw materials and executed without any stridency. Another reason is the perfect functioning of a dining room team headed by Perfe Prol, Pedro’s wife. Their excellent garden and the fine wines are another source of pride.Paseo Padre Orcolaga, 56. San Sebastián

www.akelarre.net✍

ArzAkEating at this restaurant is one of best culinary experiences possible. To speak of Juan Mari is to speak of the dean of Spanish haute cuisine, a master of masters. Since his beginnings in 1966, Juan Mari has produced exceptional and authentic Basque dishes, with a clear idea: to adapt tradition to new times. This temple of gastronomy, with modern and elegant decor and excellent lighting, has an assured future: Elena Arzak has shown herself to be

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as professional as her father, Juan Mari.Avda. Alcalde José Elosegui, �7�. San Sebastián

www.arzak.es✍

AtrioCreated by Toño Pérez and José A. Polo and elegantly and soberly deco-rated with classic works of art, this restaurant has an intimate, welcoming ambience. There are linen tablecloths, Riedel crystal, fine silverware and porcelain and excellent service organised by José. In addition, it has one of the finest restaurant wine cellars, which has won important awards. Toño, also a prize winner, is one of the great chefs. His continual quest to learn has allowed him to wed the best of haute cuisine with typical Spanish cooking: he has

The S. Pellegrino List of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants is increasingly prestigious (www.theworlds50best.com). Among the top 10 in the �010 edition are El Bulli in Roses (chef Ferran Adrià), down one spot from its previous four straight years as número uno (he was declared Best Chef of the Decade �000- �010); Mugaritz in Rentería (Andoni Luis Aduriz), El Celler de Can Roca de Girona (Joan Roca) and Arzak in San Sebastián (Juan Mari and Elena Arzak). No other country comes even close to Spain. And then there’s Martín Berasategui, in Lasarte (Guipúzcoa), in a magnificent thirty-third position.

But there are many other chefs, some of whom oc-cupy leading positions, such as Bittor Arginzoniz at the Asador Etxebarri, in Axpe (Vizcaya); Carme Ruscalleda, of Sant Pau in Sant Pol de Mar (Barcelona); Pedro Subijana, at San Sebastian’s Akelarre restaurant; Santi Santamaría from Can Fabes in Sant Celoni (Barcelona); Quique Dacosta, at El Poblet in Denia (Alicante). And others: Sergi Arola, Paco Roncero, David Muñoz, Dani García, Fermí Puig, Carles Abellán...

In addition, there are chefs throughout Spain who are long on experience and skills, and while they haven’t yet received international stardom they merit the highest recognition. This would be the case in Madrid with Paco Roncero, Sacha Hormaechea, Ramon Freixa or Abraham García; in Galicia, Pepe Solla or Marcelo; in Asturias, Pedro and Marcos Morán, Miguel and Isaac Loya, and Nacho Manzano; Castile-La Mancha, Manuel de la Osa or the Rodríguez Rey brothers; Francis Paniego in the Rioja; Koldo Rodero or Enrique Martínez in Navarra; Raúl Aleixandre at Ca Sento in Valencia, and Dani García, the best in Andalusia.

Spain’s star chefs are among the best in the world


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kept alive the typical dishes of western Spain by skilfully transforming them. He will soon move this culinary temple to the old part of town.Avda. de España, ��. Cácereswww.restauranteatrio.com✍

CAlimADani Garcia began at the Cónsula de Málaga hostelry school, continued in the kitchen of Martín Berasategui and has now created Calima. Based on the traditional flavours of Andalusia, the cuisine is full of contrasts, and employs advanced techniques such as the use of liquid nitrogen in several of its dishes. The lovely modern dining room is warm and elegant, with views of Dani’s kitchen, which can also be observed from the terrace, with its spec-

tacular vista of the sea and the blue sky. The service is attentive to the smallest detail. In addition to the ample wine list there is a large cheese wagon, sweets and teas, and a range of breads and virgin olive oils.Hotel Gran Melia Don Pepe. Avda. José Meliá, s/n. Marbella (Málaga)www.restaurantecalima.com✍

CAn fAbes Santi Santamaría is a real gastronomic institution in Catalonia and the rest of Spain: one of the biggest of the big chefs, and a versatile creator. For more than 30 years he has been demonstrating his skill at Can Fabes. This is haute cuisine based on Catalan traditions and prod-ucts from the fields and the sea: recipes have been updated to bring out the most

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authentic flavours and textures. One of the pillars of the operation is Santi’s wife, Ángels, who efficiently runs the modern dining room. Rounding out the top-flight professional team are Cándido Tardío and Juan Carlos Ibáñez.C/ Sant Joan, 6. Sant Celoni (Barcelona)

www.canfabes.com✍

CArme rusCAlledA – sAnt pAuSince 1988 the Carmen Ruscalleda-Sant Pau restaurant has occupied a 19th-century building with a garden and views of the Mediterranean. Over the years the team of Carme Ruscalleda and Toni Balam has worked hard to pro-duce culinary results that have placed this establishment at the very top. Carme never went to a professional cooking school: her

knowledge comes from personal experi-ence with the products of the Maresme region, which are the basis of her cuisine. Her two dining rooms, which are run by Toni, are the incarnation of elegance and good taste. In her efforts to demonstrate her qualities and knowledge, Carme has written several books on food.C/ Nou, 10. Sant Pol de Mar (Barcelona)

www.ruscalleda.cat✍

CAsA GerArdoWhen it opened in 188�, this was a humble restaurant and stagecoach stop. At the end of the 1970s, Pedro Morán took over, and his kitchen was soon a sanctum sanctorum of traditional Asturian cooking, starring the fabada (bean stew) and the rice pudding. Marcos, representing


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the latest generation, is developing things further with creative versions of this north-ern Spanish cuisine, although he’s in no hurry. The basis is still the quality products from the land and the sea. The very pleasant classic yet modern dining room with good service, as well as a large wine list, make this is a must when visiting Asturias. Ctra. AS-19, km 8. Prendes (Asturias)www.casa-gerardo.com✍

CAsA mArCiAlLocated in a farmhouse in a rural setting in the Sierra del Sueve area close to the Fito observation point, Casa Marcial has become Nacho Manzano’s gastronomic temple. He was a star pupil of Víctor Bango (Casa Víctor – Gijón) and is the leader of

haute cuisine in the Asturias region, with a special sensibility for local products and flavours: the broad beans, the pitu de Caleya (free-range chicken stew), the tortos (a cornflower, meat and egg dish)... There is a pleasant, comfortable dining room with stone walls and a beamed ceiling, a rustic setting that contrasts with the elegance of the linen, silverware and crockery. The careful service and excel-lent wine list are overseen, respectively, by his friendly, highly professional sisters, Olga and Sandra.C/ La Salgar, 10. Arriondas (Asturias)www.casamarcial.com✍

diverxoThis restaurant run by David Muñoz raised great expectation in Madrid

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and soon became an obligatory stop for food lovers. His blending of aromas and flavours, as well as his use of the most varied products, demonstrate the high degree of creativity of the dif-ferent menus. Another important factor is the charm and professional approach of Ángela Montero in the dining room. This is a large, attractive room with a glass wine storage container overseen by Javier Arroyo. The efforts of David and his team earned him Spain’s 2009 National Gastronomy Prize.C/ Pensamiento, �8. Madrid

www.diverxo.com✍

drolmATop marks for this establishment: the cooking by Fermín Puig, the

Spain currently has more top-level gastro-nomic events than any other country. They at-tract the celebrity chefs who, along with other Spanish masters, are among the best cooks in the world.

Buoyed up by the international success of Spanish cuisine, these congresses are springing up all over the country. Between the last months of �009 and the first ones of �010, many such

events have been held with different aims, although with one thing in common: good eating.

Some of the key events, starting in September �009: Andalucía Sabor (Seville), Congreso de Gastronomía de Castilla-La Mancha (Albacete), Club Millésime (Madrid), Lo Mejor de la Gastronomía (Alicante), San Sebastián Gastronomika (San Sebastián), Madrid Fusión (Madrid), Fórum Santiago (Santiago de Compostela), Alimentaria and Barcelona Vanguardia (Barcelona), Salón Internacional del Club de Gourmets (Madrid) and España Original (Ciudad Real), the latter gathering held in early May of this year.

Some of them have probably been left out of this long list, but there is one that must be included —though its aims are quite different— in part because it is very impor-tant for the Royal Spanish Academy of Gastronomy, which helps organise the event along with the Secretary of State for Tourism, headed by Joan Mesquida: the I European Con-gress of Tourism and Gastronomy, which was held in Madrid from �� to �5 May, and which attracted some of the impor-tant international experts.

So Spanish haute cuisine will continue to be popular in �010.

The important culinary events


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wine cellar run by Josep Puigcor-bé and the dining room headed by Alfred Romagosa. More than 10 years ago the Soldevilla-Casals family made a commitment to creating a luxur y restaurant inside a hotel, in spite of the r isk of such an opera-tion, but it’s been a complete success. Drolma is now a culinary point of ref-erence in Barcelona. Fermin’s neoclas-sic haute cuisine, without any modern extravagance, has been defined by the exper ts as cultivated cooking based on seasonal products (white truffles, game...) that are prepared with knowl-edge and care.Hotel Majestic. Paseo de Gracia, 70. Barcelonawww.drolmarestaurant.com✍

el bohíoLocated halfway between Madrid and Toledo, this family business founded in 19�0 is today run by the third generation: José and Diego Rodríguez Rey. They’ve made it into a Mecca for food lovers. José’s cooking is a blend of the traditional and the modern, based on local products and flavours. This technical, auteur approach has captured the essence of Castilian cooking. The small classic dining room is directed very professionally by Di-ego. His wine list includes more than 600 offerings from all over the world, among them local offer-ings, thus making it one of the finest restaurant wine cellars in Spain.


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Avda. Castilla-La Mancha, 81. Illescas (Toledo)www.elbohio.net✍

el bulliEl Bulli is the sanctum sanctorum of creative cuisine, run by chef Fer-ran Adrià, who has received world recognition. This cooking has been described as “the fruit of imagination, creativity and wisdom.” Add to this the natural setting at Cala Montjoy, the atmo-sphere in the dining rooms attentively run by Juli Soler, and the teamwork between them and the kitchen, and the result is that El Bulli a unique gastronomic temple that all food lovers should be familiar with. It is more than a restaurant, and from its beginnings in 1981 with Marketta

Schilling until today, it has never ceased to surprise.Cala Montjoy,s/n. Roses (Girona)

www.elbulli.com✍

el Celler de CAn roCAThe Roca brothers have become a culinary point of reference both inside and outside Spain. Glass, wood and views of a lovely garden lend a mod-ern, luminous, elegant touch to the trian-gular dining room that harmonises with the old Catalan farmhouse. This is the setting for enjoying Joan’s cooking and Jordi’s pastry, which together have been defined as a cuisine of sensations, both salty and sweet. Before sitting down at table, make a visit to the wine cellar, a real monument for both its design and


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the variety of bottles. Josep is in charge of the drink and the smooth functioning of the dining room.C/ Can Sunyer, 48 Gironawww.elcellerdecanroca.com✍

etxAnobeOpened in 1999 in a beautiful loca-tion, the Euskalduna Palace, this establishment has a luminous, spa-cious, modern dining room, while its terrace offers fine views of Bilbao. The versatile Fernando Canales is a tele-vision personality, a culinary advisor and, of course, a chef. Seconded by Mikel Población, his haute cuisine is based on the best products and traditions. The at-tentive professional dining room service is overseen by María Ángeles Elizondo,

while Zigor Gutiérrez is responsible for the always current wine list.Avda. Abandoibarra, 4. (Palacio Euskalduna). Bilbao

www.etxanobe.com✍

etxebArri Víctor Arginzoniz is the driving force behind this establishment set in the middle of the Valle de Axtondo, in the Basque Country. It occupies a fine stone farmhouse, with a bar and kitchen on the lower floor and the dining room one flight up. Víctor has invented different grills and utensils for handling the excellent products (oysters, baby eels, chops...), and uses differ-ent kinds of wood for fuel.Plaza San Juan, 1. Atxondo (Vizcaya)www.asadoretxebarri.com✍


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Cooking in Spain is currently undergoing a simplification, with a give-and-take between supporters of invention (creative cuisine) and those conservatives who preserve tradition (popular cooking).

The great success of Spanish cuisine in the early �1st century comes from the fact that its chefs have opted for dishes made from ba-sic natural products of great quality. But there’s

another reason: the attention to the country’s traditional recipes. Precisely because the good things from the past have been maintained and improved, today we have a wiser, healthier and even more tasty cuisine.

Travellers in Spain can choose traditional or creative cooking. The Paradores (www.parador.es) network pro-motes local food in its more than 90 establishments all over the country. It recently presented its bocados de España (‘Spanish titbits’): tapas that are representative of the food in the different regional autonomous communities.

The best way to find out about all this is through the culinary guides, starting with the most prestigious one, the Repsol Guide to Spain and Portugal (www.guiarepsol.com) with a complete listing of the best traditional and creative restaurants, material also covered in the Gourmetour Guide (www.gourmets.net) and the El País Aguilar Guide (www.elpaisaguilar.es). Together, they reveal the great sanctuaries of good Spanish food.

Traditional cuisine and creative cuisine

GAiGCarles Gaig traces his culinary roots back to the Horta neighbourhood in Barcelona, where the Gaig family had earned fame and prestige from their restaurant as early as the 19th century. That explains his love of the trade. In 2004, he moved things to a two-storey locale on the city’s Eixample thoroughfare. The dining room, on the upper level, is elegant, classic, modern and comfortable.C/ Aragó, �14. Barcelonawww.restaurantgaig.com✍

lA AlqueríAA marvellous 10th-century farm-house is the setting for the Ho-tel Hacienda Benazuza and La


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Alquería restaurant. A somewhat rustic dining room has become one of the prettiest and most elegant in the province of Seville. The cuisine bears the stamp of the eminent Fer rán Adriá, and has been executed by one of his faithful disciples, Rafael Zafra. Mediterranean haute cuisine with clear Andalusian touches, colourful presentation and excellent results, in a set menu served only in the evening. The excellent wine cellar, f lawless ser vice and magnificent breakfasts are among the other attractions of this hotel.Hotel Hacienda Benazuza. C/ Virgen de las Nieves, s/n. Sanlúcar la Mayor (Sevilla)

www.elbullihotel.com✍

lAs rejAsAny food fans passing through this town in La Mancha, considered the world garlic capital, shouldn’t miss Las Rejas restaurant. One comfortable din-ing room has a magnificent fireplace, while there is another less formal one, modern and minimalist. Chef Manuel de la Osa is the greatest exponent of vanguard Castilian-Manchego fare based on traditional recipes and local ingredients, with some highly satisfying results. The partridge, garlic and saffron are never far from his surpris-ing creations. There are excellent wines from the cellar of Victoriano to match the service.


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C/ General Borrero, 49. Las Pedroñeras (Cuenca)www.lasrejas.net✍

mArtín berAsAteGuiMartín Berasategui has extended his culinary wisdom from his restaurant in Lasarte to several establishments that he directs or advises in the rest of Spain. He is among the biggest of the big. His work has been defined as studio cooking: research and technique that have made for highly creative results. He’s been attracting attention since his beginnings at the Bodegón Alejandro in the old part of San Sebastián. As he himself puts it, the aim should be for the customer to feel right at home, a real achievement thanks to his constant work.

C/ Loidi, 4. Lasarte (Guipúzcoa)www.martinberasategui.com✍

muGAritzAndoni Luis Aduriz has trained with the great chefs and now joined them with his restaurant, a reference point inside and outside of Spain. It is lo-cated in a lovely Basque farmhouse sur-rounded by nature —including the herb garden— and decorated with modern touches. There is also an attractive terrace for summer dining. His stated aim: to bring out the flavours of the natural products in a cuisine based on pure flavours. He thus calls his restaurant “a place to feel, not to eat.”Aldura Aldea, �0. Rentería (Guipúzcoa)

www.mugaritz.com✍


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quique dACostAThe former Poblet de Dénia res-taurant has adopted the name of its current owner and head chef, Quique Dacosta, who has made it into the top representative of haute cuisine in the Valencia autonomous community. This vanguard cooking has its roots in the land. He is dedicated to adopt-ing new techniques, to doing research and to local products: rice, the red shrimp of Dénia, and the orchards and flora of south-east Spain. The modern building is comfortable, surrounded by nature and close to the beach. There is an excellent dining room staff that makes a visit a real pleasure. Ctra. Las Marinas, km �.5. Dénia (Alicante)

www.elpoblet.com✍

sAntCeloniThis is the ‘Madrid branch’ of the gas-tronomic temple of award-winning Santi Santamaría (Can Fabes - Sant Celoni - Barcelona), and is directed by a highly qualified team that has in turn won its own prizes: Oscar Velasco in the kitchen, Abel Valverde in the dining room, and David Robledo in charge of the wines. The elegant minimalist design by Pascua Ortega is en-hanced by the ample space between the tables, a real luxury nowadays, which lends intimacy. The modern, controlled cuisine by Oscar —prepared with the advice of Santi— always makes the best use of mar-ket-fresh products.Hotel Hesperia. Paseo de la Castellana, 57. Madridwww.restaurantesantceloni.com✍


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serGi ArolA GAstroSergi Arola’s years as a faithful disciple of Ferran Adrià, along with his own culinary technique, have won him fame ever since he opened La Broche in Madrid. Today his establishment is a point of reference, with a modern design in its two different levels. His wife, Sara Fort, runs the dining rooms, backed up by a fine team that includes the excellent sommelier, Daniel Poveda. Sergi offers his specialities in different set menus that vary each day.C/ Zurbano, �1. Madridwww.sergiarola.es✍

zortzikoThe zortziko is a typical five-day Basque dance by army recruits in their village square. Since its establish-

The Royal Spanish Academy of Gastronomy is going to work actively with the University of Mondragón and the Ministry of Science and Innovation, headed by Cristina Garmendia, to launch the Basque Culinary Center, which in �011 will become the first university Faculty of Gastro-nomic Sciences in Spain and the second in Europe. The project has received the support of eminent Basque chefs —including Juan Mari Arzak, Martín Berasategui, Pedro Subijana, Karlos Arguiñano, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Hilario Arbelaitz and Eneko Atxa— along with that of important local and regional institutions in the Basque Country and associations such as Euro-toques.

The Basque Culinary Center (www.mondragon.edu/bcc) will become the world’s first institution for gastronomic I+D+I (Investigation + Development + Innovation). It will satisfy the need in Spain for an official university-level culinary training programme, one that will provide the market with qualified and highly competent professionals, as is the case in other areas of knowledge.

The future Faculty of Gastronomic Sciences of the University of Mondragón, based in San Sebastián, will award the Diploma of Culinary Arts, a degree adapted to the European Higher Education Area, and will have four main areas of knowledge: Techniques of Kitchen-Dining Room-Sommelier, Business Management, Science and Technology, and Culture and Art. In addition, it will offer post-graduate courses for both culinary professionals and people from other fields who want to specialise in the gastronomic area. There will also be a dynamic I+D+I centre that will become an international point of reference.

The world’s first gastronomic I+D+I programme: the Basque Culinary Center


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ment in 1989, the García family has wanted guests to enjoy their culinary experience from start to finish. This house has thus become one of the best and most emblem-atic restaurants in Bilbao. Daniel’s auteur creations are full of flavour, technique and his personal touches. Located near the Guggenheim Museum, it’s elegant dining room boasts excellent service directed by Oscar. An ample wine list with more than 600 offerings, both Spanish and interna-tional, is overseen by Mikel.C/ Alameda Mazarredo, 17. Bilbaowww.zortziko.es✍

zuberoAHilario Arbelaitz in the kitchen and brother Eusebio in the dining room have brought Zuberoa some

much-deserved success. This pretty Basque farmhouse, perhaps the oldest in the area, has been turned into a lovely restaurant, rustic but elegant, with walls painted blue or of stone: a comfortable, enchanting place. There is an excellent terrace covered with wood beams that is a window on the surrounding nature. Hilario’s cuisine is based on tradition and seasonal ingredients, and demonstrates good sense and technique, eschewing passing fancies or sophistication. Examples: roast sardines with tomato and basil, or the poached eggs with purée of foie-gras and truffle. The dining room and wine list are overseen by Eusebio, ably backed up by Arantxa Urretavizkaia.Pza. Bekosoro, 1. Oiartzun (Guipúzcoa)

www.zuberoa.com✍


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The 25 best gastrobars

Spain has always highly valued its bars, taverns, tapas places and informal restaurants serving traditional native cooking —places that are attractive not least for their com-pany and conversation. In addition, they had a bar at which to stand up and have an aperitif, eat lunch or have a dinner of tapas and wine.

Some of the country’s best restaurateurs, who already run haute cuisine operations, have decided to reproduce this old snacks formula in an updated and more attractive setting: what have been called gastrobars. Some of them are in old locales that have been modernised, and others are in newly created settings.

A gastrobar is more comfortable, more tastefully decorated and makes it possible to eat at the bar while seated on stools, or dine at more or less informal tables. The basic thing is to offer simple cooking in the shape of tapas, small servings of food or miniaturised cuisine. In this style of eating the accent is on quality and basic ingredi-ents, which are presented in traditional or creative recipes.

Curiously, one of the pioneers in this new gastrobar formula was Joël Robuchon, a French chef, who created his famous L’Atelier some years ago in Paris, from where the idea spread to different cities and countries around the world.

In Spain, most of them are located in the regions of Andalusia, Madrid, Asturias, Cata-lonia, the Basque Country, Castile-La Mancha, Castile & León, the Rioja and Valencia.

Along with the 25 Best Restaurants, it is logical to include the 25 Best Gastrobars.

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Tapas

A fuego negroAmaia García, Edorta Lamo and Iñigo Cojo are the three founders of this locale that features music, design and modern decor. It’s the ‘in’ place in San Sebastián to eat meals and tapas, seated or stand-ing, in a youthful, informal, relaxed atmosphere. The cooking is Basque, with original and creative miniatures. The menu is as original as the decora-tion, with salads, rations and tapas, some of them sweet at desser t time, and wine and liqueurs. As dedicated wine lovers, they offer a number of wines of different grape varieties and appellation contrôlée. 31 de Agosto, 31. San Sebastiánwww.afuegonegro.com✍

Adolfo colecciónThis uninhibited and informal estab-lishment is located in the centre of Toledo, in an early 20th-century build-ing just 50 metres from the Cathedral. It has a modern, vanguard design by Adolfo Muñoz, who has a well-deserved reputation in the sector. It is managed by his daughter Verónica, who is always on top of the small-est details. There are two levels. On the lower one is a shop selling culinary prod-ucts and a wine cellar. The upper floor has high tables with stools and a kitchen in view of the public.Nuncio Viejo, 1. Toledowww.grupoadolfo.com✍


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Spain has the be s t v i r g i n ex t ra o l i ve o i l s i n t he w o r l d , f o r both quality and var iety. There is one for every dish, and assuming one knows t he i r com-parative quali-ties, choosing the right one for each occasion becomes an exercise in culinary creativity. To learn more about oils, the book Los aceites de oliva en la gastronomía del siglo XXI (Everest) analyses them from all perspectives: experts in cuisine, scientists and nutritionists reveal why this is one of Spain’s greatest culinary treasures.

If there is a single essential ingredient in 21st-century cuisine, it is doubtless olive oil. It is the most noble of the fats, unsurpassed for its gastronomic, nutritional and dietetic qualities. And it has always meant much more than other foods, because in reality it is more than simple nourishment.

In addition to the basic Spanish oils made from the Picual, Hojiblanca, Empeltre or Cornicabra olive varieties, the Arbequina can be found throughout the country. Also notable: the recovery of the Arbosana (the best is from La Boella. www.laboella.com) and even the introduction of foreign varieties such as Koroneiki. And then there are offerings based on local varieties such as Manzanilla from Seville, the Verdial from the Extremadura region, and Arróniz from Navarra.

In total, Spain has more than 660 varieties that are more or less fruity, sweet, bitter, strong, smooth, spicy, etc., although the liquid always tastes like fresh olives. And then there is a whole secondary range of enriching subtleties that evoke apple, lemon, pear, almond, hazelnut, fresh grass... The Aceites de Pago (www.aceitesdepago.com) have contributed greatly to the resurgence of this sector and to a greater offer in quality. And there’s also LA Organic (www.laorganic.es), from designer Philippe Starck and oenologist Michel Rolland.

The world’s best virgin extra olive oils

Aris bArJuan Pablo Felipe has created a relaxed, informal space at the en-trance to El Chaflán, an opportunity to sample his Mediterranean cook-ing less expensively by means of a new concept in tapas or miniature cuisine. The bread with Torta del Casar cheese and truffles are a good example. The tapas are more traditional —bread crumbs (migas) with fried eggs, for ex-ample— while the mini-creations are another alternative. All this accompanied by a good selection of wines and an attractive list of cocktails, currently so popular in Madrid. Hotel Aristos. Avda. Pio XII, 34 Madrid

www.elchaflan.com✍


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Tapas

AsiAnA nextdoorThe very special Asian-Peruvian cuisine prepared by Jaime Renedo comes in the form of snacks served in a relaxed, modern, slightly rustic setting. There are such attractive dishes as the sea bass with yellow pepper and wasabi, the different ceviches (citrus-mari-nated seafood), the jasmine rice and —why not?— a certain Mediterranean touch with the Ibérico ham or the Greek-style solterito with grilled octopus and black olives. The desserts are European in style. A whole range of aromas and flavours.Travesía de San Mateo, 4. Madrid

AvAnt gArdenThis place has been going for less than a year but is already receiving

a lot of attention both in Gijón and outside the northern city. Located in the Hotel NH Gijón, it has brought the gastrobar concept to a very traditional area that has not developed much in the culinary sense. Javier Loya, from a restaurant family in the neighbouring Asturias region, offers vanguard cooking with clear Asturian roots, excellent basic materials and careful preparation. All this is reflected in a menu with tapas large and small or in the different set menus. The offer is rounded out with a select wine list, some fine cheeses, excellent cocktails and a magnificent terrace.Hotel NH Gijón. Paseo Doctor Fleming, 71. Gijón

bAby grill rubAiyAt Belarmino Fernández, who has res-


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taurants in different countries in South America, came to Spain and is now very successful with Baby Beef Rubaiyat. After his success here, and in line with current fashions, he added this small locale behind the main restaurant and separated by a large inner glass wall that makes it possible to watch activity in the kitchen. Simple decor features wood in the bar, tables and stools. When the weather is good the terrace is used. The menu —including hot and cold bread-based tapas, full servings, salads and some meats— makes it possible to have an informal lunch or dinner with the quality of the original Rubaiyat. C/ Juan Hurtado de Mendoza, 11. Madrid

www.rubaiyat.es✍

bArrA sieteOn Victoria Beach in Cadiz, this relaxed establishment has mini-malist decor and views of the sea. It’s a small, bright place with a pretty semicircular bar and high tables for sampling a new and dif-ferent offer based on tapas and servings, with the culinary quality of José Manuel Córdoba (of the Ven-torrillo el Chato establishment). Shrimp salads, rices served as tapas, fried fish, Iberico cured ham prepared in different ways, payoyo cheese... There are good desserts and an appropriate wine list, short but well selected. Special mention should be made of the good service, directed by Julián. Amilcar Barca, 17. Cadiz


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Tapas

becerritAThe surname Becerra is synony-mous in Seville with good food served in pleasant surroundings. Jesús María Becerra, the son of En-rique, is a good example of this. Any gourmet walking in the Ronda de Capuchinos area should visit one of the city’s most typical bars. Some typi-cal local tiles provide the decor for some traditional Andalusian tapas and serv-ings, accompanied by a wide selection of local wines. Potatoes garnished with virgin extra olive oil, bull tail croquettes. It can be argued whether this is really a gastrobar, but it doesn’t matter: its success is guaranteed.Recaredo, 9. Seville

www.becerrita.com✍

burlAdero, elLocated next to the hall of the Hotel Colón, this modern gastro-bar has become a meeting point for informal lunches and dinners. It bears the stamp of Dani García (Cali-ma – Marbella) in its offer of tapas and cheeses served at the bar and at tables. Potato salad with tuna fish, Iberico ham products... Hotel Gran Meliá Colón. Canalejas, 1 Sevillewww.granmeliacolon.com✍

comerç 24Carles Abellá was an outstanding student at the Barcelona Hostelry School, and after training at several restaurants, including El Bulli, he’s


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opened his own place in Barcelona. He says it’s a gastrobar that’s “like a tapas bar, with a bar and tables that offers the comfort of a classic restaurant with an elegant, cosmopolitan air.” This is creative cuisine in miniature, very original and

carefully prepared and presented in serv-ings that can be shared. He uses advanced techniques and the highest quality in-gredients. He has another locale, more informal, called Tapas 24 (Diputación, 269. Tel. 934 880 977. Web: www.tapas24.net), which is considered one of the best tapas bars in Barcelona. Comerç, 24. Barcelona

www.comerc24.com✍

Pure acorn-fed Iberico cured ham is something magi-cal, whose quality is dependant on careful, traditional production methods. To learn everything about this wondrous world, the key reference book, for both its photos and text, is El jamón ibérico en la gastronomía del siglo XXI (Everest).

Four regulatory councils control the process in the four production areas. There are three Denomination of Origin (DO) controls: Dehesa de Extremadura (www.dehesa-extremadura.com), Guijuelo (www.i-guijuelo.com) and Jamón de Huelva (www.jamondehuelva.com), and one Specific Denomination, called Jamón de Los Pedroches (www.jamondelospedroches.com). All of them guarantee the quality of the process.

There are some recommendations to guarantee the most enjoyment of this special ham experience. If you buy a complete piece, it should be consumed within three months; if not, it can become too dry and lose a large part of its aroma. As for the best way to cut it, this can be done either by hand or by a machine. Cutting by hand is always to be preferred, especially if this is done by a good professional with the right kind of knife so as to bring out the ham’s true essence. And once it has been cut, the meat should be consumed quickly so as to maintain that magic moment, and always at room temperature. Pure acorn-fed Iberico cured ham is a real delicacy; to bring out its enormous potential, it should be accompanied by a good dry sherry from Jerez.

The best offer comes from Real Jamón (www.re-aljamoniberico.com). It presents the best quality from each DO, hand-cut by Florencio Sanchidrián (a ham ambassador to the world) and packed under optimum conditions in packets of 100, 50 or 25 grams.

Acorn-fed Iberico cured ham, the king of Spanish food


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Tapas

el Atelier d’enrichVíctor Enrich, a young and well-established chef, is backed up in the dining room by his wife, María Vega de Seoane. Following a refurbish-ing, there are two different parts of the restaurant: Enrich –a traditional, now smaller culinary operation— and its new gastrobar, El Atelier, with a more carefree ambience and a pleasant ter-race. It has a bar offering food prepared by Víctor, and served at a small number of tables. At both the bar and the tables there are servings to share along with Víctor’s more traditional dishes, making it possible to eat at more affordable prices all day long. Estafeta, 2. Plaza de la Fuente. La Moraleja (Madrid)

el plAtóThis bright, modern functional and informal establishment is in the heart of Madrid, near the Open-air Museum of Modern Art. There is a terrace for dining in fair weather, with views of the studio of the Intereconomía television channel. The cooking of Andrés Armero, who is advised by Pedro Lar-umbe, is traditional, and is offered in full and half servings; the Iberico pork is special (meatballs, hamburger, jaw). By night, the cocktail bar is full. Paseo de la Castellana, 36. Madrid

www.elplato.es✍

el sAlón de lA chimeneAThe Echaurren is the fullest expres-sion of cuisine in the Rioja region


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of northern Spain, both in the tradi-tional cooking by Marisa and in the more modern version by her son Francis Paniego. This is also a fine hotel. The town of Ezcaray is an important centre for rural tourism and for skiers. This has led the Paniegos, in their efforts to perfect their food and advance with the times, to create a new, less formal dining space: El Salón de la Chimenea, a gastrobar that Francis defines as “the union between the traditional and the modern, in the tapas version.” In other words, all kinds of tapas and rations from both ways of cooking in a free-and-easy setting, but it’s only open at night.Hotel Echaurren. Padre José García, 19. Ezcaray (La Rioja)

www.echaurren.com✍

estAdo puroFacing Madrid’s Plaza de Nep-tuno on the ground floor of the Hotel NH Paseo del Prado is an establishment with three areas: a bar, a ground floor terrace, and a dining room with a ceiling full of ladies’ ornamental combs. At this gastrobar Paco Roncero is respon-sible for the cold tapas (for example, potato salad with regañá bread) and the hot ones (brochette of pickled pork), in addition to the salads (eel and pineapple with orange sauce), hot and cold bread-based tapas, and sandwiches. Hotel NH Paseo del Prado. Plaza Cánovas del Castillo, 4. Madridwww.tapasenestadopuro.com✍


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Tapas

inopiA clAsic bArModern decor and a relaxed and cosmopolitan ambience in a small Barcelona locale where customers must wait their turn so as to avoid crowding. It’s a good approach, and makes it possible to enjoy the place and the food. Proprietors Joan Martínez and Albert Adriá define it as “a classic Spanish bar”. Everything revolves around the large bar, with the exception of a single table that must be reserved. Traditional rations, tapas and brochettes with the Adriá stamp. Po-tato salad, anchovies in vinegar, homemade cured ham croquettes... An army of friendly waiters circulate along the bar taking cus-tomers’ orders.Tamarit, 104. Barcelona

www.barinopia.com✍

l’AleznA tApAsPedro Martino, along with the Villabrille brothers (of the Valles del Oso cheese operation), cre-ated this locale in the Barrio de Montecerrao in Oviedo for a wide public. The luminosity and decor are the perfect complement for the creative furniture. Even though Pedro Martino has left, this is still a high-quality op-eration based on simple dishes very carefully prepared from the best local products. The result is a succulent selec-tion of tapas and miniaturised cuisine, along with a good selection of wine and cheeses. Raúl Villabrille directs op-erations in the dining room and advises about wines.Celestino Álvarez, 5. Oviedo


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Spanish wines are at the top of their form. Until recently, to speak of Spanish wines was to speak only of the Rioja region (www.riojawine.com), such as the Ama-ren from Luis Cañas, or of the Ribera de Duero (www.riberadelduero.es), such as the Loess Collection. But today there are Denomina-tions of Origin all over the country such as Toro (www.dotoro.es), Priorat (www.doqprio-

rat.org), Somontano (www.somontano.es), Bierzo (www.crdobierzo.es) and Valdeorras (www.dovaldeor-ras.com) among many others: they’re terroir or estate wines of unquestionable quality. And it’s not just the reds that are great: there are exceptional whites such as those from the Rias Baixas (www.doriasbaixas.com), with the notable Pazo de Señorans Selección from Añada, the Penedés area (www.dopenedes.es) or the Rueda region (www.dorueda.com). Also Castile-La Mancha with its Hipperia de Vallegarcía wines.

Today there are extraordinary wines from regions that had traditionally been of little interest: when looking for quality it’s time to go beyond the obvious and seek out other parts, on both the peninsula and in the islands. As for grapes, in addition to the permanent success of Tempranillo or Verdejo there has been a re-naissance in Mencía and Garnacha, and among outsiders such as Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon: they now seem almost Spanish for the way they have adopted to our climate and soil.

To learn about wines, one must sample a great va-riety of different offerings to discover new sensations, and talk with other people who share our interest. It’s also necessary to read about wines, because this makes us want to sample them. The best way is through the guidebooks, outstanding among which are the Guía Repsol de los Mejores Vinos de España (www.guiarepsol.com), the Guía Peñín de los Vinos de España (www.grupopenin.com) and La Guía Todovino (www.todovino.com), edited by Custodio López Zamarra.

The rise of Spanish wines

lA morAgAIn the centre of Malaga. Modernity in the decor by José Luis Galán and the cooking designed by Dani García (Calima–Marbella) and skil-fully and precisely executed by Jesús Barrera. Cosmopolitan ambience in a designer locale, with high stools and a few tables, a wide bar-refrigerator display with cold tapas (almost as if this were a pastry shop), and walls with glass cases full of wines. Also hot dishes, croquettes, fried items, stews... They’re all original and nicely presented. In the same city there’s another Moraga, at the Corte Inglés de-partment store, with similar characteris-tics and commercial hours.Fresca, 12. Malaga

www.lamoraga.es✍


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Tapas

lA morAgA ibéricAThe moraga is a summer festival in Malaga province that’s held on the beach, where families roast sardines on a spit. And that’s what Dani García is after in his establishments: that the visit be a party for the customer in a modern and relaxed setting. A low bar and com-fortable seats allow for an informal meal without any uncomfortable barstools. There are also some tables. Behind the bar, José Antonio Carmona successfully executes Dani’s creations with precision. Half-servings and individual tapas where Ibérico pork is the star : little hamburg-ers, jaw in sauce, flamenquín... La Moraga Sweet was recently opened on the same street (Tel. 952 815 652).Ramón Areces, 1. Marbella (Malaga)

le cAbrerA This recently opened establishment has quickly become one of the popu-lar Madrid spots, a place to see and be seen. Luis Galliussi has produced a modern design for two different areas: on the lower floor, cocktails by bartender Diego Cabrera, a faithful follower of Arola in Barcelona and Madrid. On the street level, a tapas bar with stools that is run by Benjamín Benssousan, the right-hand man of Sergi Arola, where diners enjoy Benjamín’s culinary offerings as uniquely designed by Sergi..Bárbara de Braganza, 2. Madrid

lizArránA different concept of informal food based on tapas and bro-chettes, combining tradition and


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imagination to make snacking a surprising experience. This large franchise chain is not only in Spain but in the rest of Europe and on other continents. Tapas and rations, both cold and hot, of miniaturised Spanish cuisine: it’s based on quality raw materials, many of them products with an appellation contrôlée. Spanish omelette, codfish, Andalusian squid... and all washed down with beers and wines. Rustic decor : bar, tables, stools and wooden chairs from which to sip an aperitif or enjoy a tradi-tional meal in a casual setting.Comess Group de Restauración S.L. C/ Enrique Granados 6. Edificio B. Complejo Empresarial Imce. Pozuelo de Alarcón (Madrid)

www.lizarran.es✍

nArruIn its three years of existence, this establishment has become a point of reference in San Sebastián. Located in the heart of the Gros neighbourhood close to Zurriola beach and the Kursaal auditorium, it has modern, minimalist decor. There are two distinct areas: the restaurant itself, with a more extensive menu, and the bar area. The latter, luminous and warm, has high tables. Its tapas are the big attraction, miniaturised cuisine based on the day’s fresh products and presented on demand in front of customers by the creative Iñigo Peña. To accompany them, there’s a good selection of wines, which can be enjoyed by the glass. Efficient and attentive service.Miguel Imaz, 10. San Sebastián

www.narru.es✍


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Tapas

óleoVicente Patiño has opened this place in front of the Museo de las Atarazanas and next to the headquarters of the America’s Cup in the port. There are two separate areas. On the lower level, a restaurant for more formal dining. At the entrance, a gastrobar, the first to open in Valencia. It has an elegant bar and high stools for the informal consumption of some modern tapas (which he calls ‘oleotapas’) made in Vicente’s inimitable style, along with a few more formal dishes and his des-er ts. All this washed down with some wine by the glass.Juan Antonio Benlliure, 9. Valenciawww.restauranteoleo.com✍

simúnIn the Cerro del Águila, facing the entrance to the Polígono Hytasa, is this Seville neighbour-hood spot that has been run for 15 years by Paco Simún, of-fering coffee and toast in the morning and a daily set menu for lunch. But now there’s a new proposal for the evening: the gastro-bar, where tapas are the star. Pablo Jiménez, Paco’s son-in-law, prepares some vanguard offerings with a per-sonal touch, based on his extensive culinar y experience in Andalusian kitchens. The basic ingredients are of the highest quality, purchased in the wonderful local market.Avda. Hytasa, 71. Seville


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villA pArAmesA tApAsIf you want something different from the traditional Castilian roast baby pig, this is a good informal alternative in Valladolid. It’s en establishment with unique touches: fine crockery to present the different taps, and wines by the glass served from magnums. José Ignacio Castrodeza, who has a restaurant of the same name in Villanubla, is the man behind this charm-ing locale, with its pleasing ambience and friendly attention. There is a fine selection of succulent servings, and designer tapas and other traditional ones, all well prepared and with his personal touch. They’re on view in a covered display case like jewels.Calixto Fernández de la Torre, 5. Valladolidwww.villaparamesa.es✍

The Denominations of Protected Origins (DOP in Spanish) and Protected Geographic Indications (IGP) now represent almost 300 quality brands throughout Spain. They recognise high quality, a result of special characteristics that stem from the special geography of the places they are produced and the raw materials that go into the products. These certifiers of approval are of many sizes, from the wines of Rioja (www.riojawine.com), the Ribera del Duero (www.riberadelduero.es) or the Jerez areas (www.sherry.org), to Manchego cheese (www.quesomanchego.es) or other tiny production areas that seek to survive. But each one has its place in the sun, although some, for their small size, would do better if they went hand-in-hand with other neighbouring products through different initiatives that have been set in motion.

This system to defend the quality of food and produce is important, and is currently regulated by rules approved in 2006. So accustomed have we become to the system that we often assume it has been in place forever, when in fact this is a relatively new legal guarantee aimed at protecting the produc-tion of some of Spain’s unique assets. In fact, the most internationally accepted definition was not estab-lished until 1985. The DOP and IGP (there are also Specific Denominations and Guaranteed Traditional Specialities certifications) are meant to individualise merchandise based on its origin. In this way they help preserve the personality and legacy of each region, in addition to bringing cultural benefits.

The importance of DOP and IGP


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This guide was compiled by

Rafael Ansón, founder and

president of the Royal Spanish

Academy of Gastronomy.

With the assistance of Javier

Carretero.

Rafael AnsónyebrAYebra has achieved something of a cult status for tapas in Seville. In a carefree and informal setting, its offers spectacular tapas and servings, based on the often unconventional preparation of haute cuisine. Placed in the centre of the table, they can be shared among several diners. While the restaurant is off the usual tapas route in Seville, it’s worth the trip to get here. It is located in the Triana neighbourhood, just a few steps from the church containing one of the city’s most venerated religious images, La Macarena. There’s a notable wine cellar with a large selection.Medalla Milagrosa, 3. Seville

Tapas


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