Textiles an Overview

8/6/2019 Textiles an Overview

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TextilesTextilesAn Overview



y Textile Fibers and Their characteristics

y Fabric Construction

y

Textile Testing



Where do we use textiles? Where do we use textiles?

HOUSEHOLD� Clothes

� Bags and baskets.

� Carpet`s

� Upholstery

� Drapery

� Window shades� Towels

� Mosquito nets

� Handkercheifs

� Rags

� Covering for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces

� Art

y In the workplace, they are used in industrial and scientific processes suchas filtering.



MISCELLANEOUS

� Backpacks

� Tents

� Nets

� Flags,

� Transportation devices such as balloons, kites, sails, and parachutes,.

� Seat Covers for cars and other vehicles

� Soft toys

Textiles used for industrial purposes, and chosen for characteristics other than theirappearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles.

Technical textiles include textile structures for

� automotive applications,

� medical textiles (e.g. implants, sutures),� geotextiles (reinforcement of embankments),

� agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection),

� protective clothing (e.g. against heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, againstmolten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests).



What is a textile?What is a textile?

y

A textile or cloth is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn.

y Yarn spinning of fibres, to produce long strands.

y Textiles weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres

together (felt).

y The words f abric and cloth synonyms for textile.

Fiber Yarn Fabric



Textile

f ilament staple

Yarn

Fabrics Fabrics

Woven Knitted Braided Lace & Knit Felt Non wovens

Fibers(Thin, hair-like strands that are the basic units used

to make textile products)



Classif ication of f ibresClassif ication of f ibres

Natural Manmade ( artificial fibres)

Animal Vegetable Mineral

�Cotton(Seed)

�Jute (Bast)

�Linen(bast)�Hemp(Bast)

�Ramie( Bast)

�Sisal( Leaf)

�Coir(Fruit)

�Silk ( filament)

� Wool

�Hair f ibresMohair

Cashmere

Alpaca

Horse

Rabbit

�Gold

�Silver

�Asbestos

Organic Inorganic

Nylon

Polyester

Acrylic

Natural Synthetic

Rayon

Acetate

Triacetate

Glass

Metallic



Diff erent type of f abric used in interior Diff erent type of f abric used in interior

design decorationdesign decoration

y Today artificial and synthetic fabric is

more common than natural which is

otherwise expensive in compare to

former.



Natural f abricNatural f abric

y Natural fiber ²obtained from nature

y More durable, soft, luxurious and resilient.

y

E.g linen, cotton, silk, hemp, jute, wool, andspecial animal fibers like cashmere,

mohair, camelhair etc..



CottonCotton

y Obtained from cotton plant.

y Advantages

tough and stands up well towear and laundering.

cool fibre that breathes welland dries relatively quickly.

y Disadvantage- tendency towrinkle.



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WoolWool

y Obtained from sheep( mainly)

y Advantages ²

tough, durable, resilient animalfiber.

can be easily dyed dyesoft with a luxurious look and

feel.

y Disadvantage ²

delicate and expensive when taken

from goats, camel, alpaca andllama and so these types of woolare often mixed with sheep·swool

Fine, medium,and long wool

http://www.sheep101.info/201/woolmark

eting.html



www.stylehive.com



design4interior.com



LinenLinen

y Obtained from the flaxplant.

y Advantagesprovides tough yarn

moth resistant andhardwearing.

easily washable

y Disadvantage

creases easily



decorationsmilleniuminteriordesign.blogspot.com



decoration.net



arhdecor.com



decorpad.com



Jute Jute

�Obtained from stem of jute plant

�Advantage

Excellent resistance to

micro-organisms

�Disadvantage

harsh and brittle

Lints badly

Wrinkles easily





www.basimenterprises.com





Silk Silk

y Silk is also called animal fiber

y obtained from cocoon of the silkwormmoth.

y Advantage

luxurious

unique texture and lustrous appearance.

Disadvantage

Expensive

requires frequent dry cleaning and

hand wash is strictly prohibited gets creased and can be damaged if

exposed in sunlight.



evadesigns.com



indiamarks.com



exoticindiaart.com



ManmadeManmade ² ² natural f abricsnatural f abrics

y made from natural sources like wood pulp

and fiber obtained from other plants

which are further processed with

chemicals.

y some of the popular artificial fibers are

classified as acetate, rayon, triacetate and

modified rayon.



RayonRayon

y Obtained from processed wood pulp

y Advantages

hard, strong and highly absorbent.

economicaldrapes wonderfully

substitute of natural fiber which is expensive overartificial fiber.

y Disadvantage

more prone to burning and can rapidly catch fire.

wrinkles easily



interiordesign.net



AcetateAcetate

y obtained from wood pulpy Advantages

moth resistant

excellent draping qualitiesversatile and inexpensive.used in making of satins and other fabrics.y Disadvantage

low absorbent and strength.Easily damaged by heat

Easily wrinkled





Manmade : SyntheticManmade : Synthetic f ibersf ibers

y Artificial fibers

y Obtained due to reaction of chemicals

y E.g acrylic, nylon, polyester, and olefin.



AcrylicAcrylic

y Advantagelightweight, soft and warm.

doesn·t crease easily, shrink resistant andresilient.

Easily blends with other fibers

moth resistantdyes welly

Disadvantagesensitive if exposed to sunlight.pills easily





PolyestersPolyesters

y Advantageseasy to handle as it can be hand washed.

shrink resistant

moth resistantretains its shapecrease resistant.can be mixed with other fibers for enhanced

qualities. excellent resistance to biological attacks.









Polyamide (nylon)Polyamide (nylon)

y Advantages

tough

resilient fiber

high elasticity.

non-shrinkable

crease resistant

easily washable.

most durable





OlefinOlefin (Polypropylene and(Polypropylene and polyethhylenepolyethhylene))

y Advantages

inexpensive

widely used as carpet fiber

light

excellent elastic recovery

good resistance to stains





Textile Process FlowTextile Process Flow

yTextile Fiber Selection

yYarn (Spinning)

yWeaving or knitting

yProcessing (Dyeing & Printing)

yFinishing



YARNYARN

y Yarn is defined as a linear assemblage of thef ibers twisted together.

y The process of making the yarn from a textile fiber

is called Spinning

y Both staple and f ilament f ibres are used tomake yarn

y Staple f ibres make spun yarn.

y Filament f ibres make f ilament yarn



Felting- is the massing,

flattening & matting together(Interlocking) of many fibersby application of Heat,pressure, steam and chemicals

Knitting- is a fabric which madefrom a single yarn into acontinuous row of loopsinterlock.

Weaving- is an art of forming

a fabric at right angles with

two or more sets of yarn. It is

one of the basic methods of

fabric preparation

Fabric Formation

Knitting -

Inter-looping

Felting -

Interlocking

Weaving-

Interlacing



WeavingWeaving

yWeave: Interlacing of the weft yarns

(crosswise yarns) with the warp yarns

(lengthwise yarns)



Weave pattern

y There are THREE basic weave patterns

used for the majority of fabrics and they

are

1) Plain

2) Twill

3) Satin



PLAIN WEAVEPLAIN WEAVE

Plain weave is the simplest and most used weave



PLAIN WEAVE VARIATIONSPLAIN WEAVE VARIATIONS

BASKET



RIB

Warp ribbed (corded) fabric,

coarse warp yarn than weft

yarn

Weft ribbed fabric, coarse weft yarn than

warp yarn



PILE WEAVE

UNCUT PILE CUT PILE

Terry Cloth Corduroy



TWILL FABRICWEAVETWILL FABRICWEAVE

Denim



TwillWeaveTwillWeave

y A distinct design for the twill weave is it

form a diagonal line.



SATIN WEAVESATIN WEAVE

Under one, over f our or more

creating ́ f loatsµ with wef t yarns



SatinWeaveSatinWeave

y Similar to twill weave but the diagonal line

of the satin weave is not visible.

y It is purposely interrupted in order to

contribute to the flat, smooth, lustroussurface desired.



SATIN WEAVE VARIATIONSATIN WEAVE VARIATION

Sateen Weave

Floats on warp yarns



Comparison of Basic Weave Properties



y Small patternsy produces an allover figured fabrics.

y small geometric patterns.y The construction of the weave is very

complex and the design is repeatedfrequently.

y created on dobby machines.

y The machine selectively raises some warp

threads and selectively depresses others withthe help of a dobby card.

y used as home furnishings and for heavyapparel.

DOBBY WEAVE





y Used to produce intricate patternsy figures are created all over the fabrics.

y woven on a jacquard loom.

y The loom has a jacquard attachment or a punch card.

y In jacquard loom, the warp yarns is individually controlled

and not in groups. This allows creating more complexdesigns.

y Fabrics of jacquard weave are costly because it involvesmore time and skill in making the Jacquard cards to producenew pattern.

y Moreover the weaving operation is also very slow.

y used for upholstery and drapery materials like brocades,damask , tapestries

JACQUARD WEAVE



housefabric.com mobilitymegastore.co.uk



KNITTINGKNITTING

Constructing fabric with one

yarn and one set (2) of

needles; right side is flat

(knit), wrong side is bumpy

(pearl).



FELTINGFELTING

Nonwoven fabric :

�made by pressing fibers

together with moisture,

heat, and pressure.Nonwoven fabrics have no

grainlines.



FABRIC TERMSFABRIC TERMS

Selvages«woven edges of

fabric, runs parallel to

lengthwise grain

Lengthwise grain«strongest grain,

also called the warp yarns, runs

parallel to the selvage

Cut or Torn edge«

runs parallel to the

crosswise grain

Crosswise grain«

weaker grain, runs

parallel to cut or torn

edge and perpendicular

to the lengthwise grain;

also called the weft

yarns

Fabric f old«created when

selvages or cut edges are

brought together.

Bias«a diagonal line

of direction running

between the

lengthwise and

crosswise grains of fabric



Coloring FabricColoring Fabric

Bef ore Construction:

Yarn Dying

Printing:

Af ter Construction:

Piece Dying

Af ter Construction:

Color the

same on

f ront and

back

Color diff erent on

f ront and back



Fabrics in Interior DesignFabrics in Interior Design

The proper use of fabric will bring

your interior design to life.

�Function,

�Mood

�Harmony



FunctionFunction

y How durable does the fabric need to be?

y How fade resistant is the fabric in

sunlight?

y How dirt resistant does the fabric need

to be?

y Is the fabric you have just fallen in love

with too expensive for your budget?



MoodMood

y Does this fabric fit the overall mood of yourdesign?

y The best way for you to choose fabric is togo to a store and experience the fabric firsthand. It is important to inspect them upclose and touch them to see if the weaveand texture appeals to you.

y

Whatever color scheme or mood youdecide to go with, using a variety of fabrictextures adds depth to your design.



HarmonyHarmony

y Are the fabrics you have chosen

harmonious with each other and with

your overall design? The patterns in the

fabrics must be proportional, i.e. bigmotifs with big furniture and big patterns

with large rooms.

y

Have only one bold pattern in any room.



TextileTestingTextileTesting

y In response to ever-changing

governmental regulations and the ever-

increasing consumer demand for high

quality, testing is essential to minimize risk and protect the interest of both

manufacturers and consumers.



WhyTest?

Testing is carried out at the fibre, fabric and garment stage. Testing is required forseveral reasons:

�To ensure the product meets certain legal and safety requirements, for example

by law, products like sofas and beds have to meet certain fireproofing or

flammability standards.

�To ensure accurate labelling, eg washing and aftercare instructions.

�To make a decision about what materials, pre-manufactured components and

production processes to use.

�To match materials and components with suitable tools, equipment and

processes.

�To ensure customer loyalty.



PillingPilling

y Happens when small accumulations of fibresappear on the surface of a fabric.

y develop during wear,y To test for pilling, the material to be tested is

moved back and forth for a certain number of revolutions across the machine heads, whichare covered with pieces of standard woollenfabric.

y

The results of the test are graded, with 5 beingno pilling at all.Most manufacturers require a 4to pass.

Ab iAb i



AbrasionAbrasion

y This test records the rate at which the materialsthreads break after being exposed to repeatedabrasion.

y The sample is stretched taut and held againstcurved rotating cylinder with and abrasivesurface.

y The Oscillatory Cylinder method known as theWyzenbeek test is the traditional test for testingabrasion resistance.

y

The Taber abraser test is used for carpets.y Test results depend on number of cycles required

before an visible changes in the fabric.



y ASTM D4970 , Standard Test Method for

Pilling Resistance and Other related Surface

Changes of Textile Fabrics is an abrasion test

used to determine resistance to theformation of pills and other surface

changes on textile fabrics under light

pressure.



Tear StrengthTear Strength

y Tear strength is a test toidentify how much forceis needed to tear a pieceof fabric.

y Sensors inside the

machine record theamount of force appliedto the material and thespeed of the tear.

y The material is clamped

in to the machine andmore and more forceapplied until the fabricbreaks.

C tT tiC tT ti



CarpetTestingCarpetTesting

y A particular area of speciality is the

mechanical testing of carpets that includes

testing for:

y construction

y durability

y appearance change

y colour fastness (light, rub, wash etc)

y electrostatic properties.

D T tiD T ti



DrapeTestingDrapeTesting

y The drape test is used to find out how stiff apiece of fabric is. A circular piece of materialis placed in

y the drape box, the lid closed and the outer

part of the material allowed to hang freely.The materialy casts a shadow on a paper ring and by

drawing around it and then calculating howmuch of the paper it

y covers, it is possible to come up with afigure that represents the stiffness of thematerial.



Flame retardantFlame retardant

y In industry fabrics can be treated for flame retardant to meetBritish Standard specifications.

Non substantive finishes.Usually water-soluble products thatfive off gases which swamp the oxygen and stop flamesforming.

Substantives finishes. The most common type of treatmentand used on textiles which have to be regularly laundered ordry cleaned, for example Proban and Pyrovatex.

Reflective surface coatings are added to enhance thermalproperties as well as making the product more resistant tofire.

Back coating, which is done by spreading the reverse of afabric with a mixture of fire-resisting chemicals and resins.

y Popular for carpets and floor coverings.

Documents

Textiles an Overview