Volume 3 • Issue 3 • 1000135J Textile Sci EngISSN: 2165-8064 JTESE, an open access journal

Open Access

Kunal et al., J Textile Sci Eng 2013, 3:3http://dx.doi.org/10.4172/2165-8064.1000135

Open Access

Research Article

Keywords: % AOX; BOD; COD; TDS; Salt free acidic; Alkalinedyeing

Materials and Methods Cotton fabric material

100% cotton knitted fabric (single jersey) was procured from Nahar Industries Ltd. Ludhiana, Punjab, India. Combed cotton yarns with linear densities of 29.53 tex (20S Ne) and with a twist factors (33.5), 44 mm staple cotton length was chosen as the raw materials (single jersey knitted 100% cotton fabric with a wpi of 28 and cpi 24).

Dyes and chemicals

We had used Reactive Red HE8B dye (CI Reactive Red 152, Clariant, India) dye for dyeing of material in a 0.5%, 1% and 3% of shade were used for this study. A nonionic detergent (Felosan RGN-S; CHT) was used for washing off. Deionised water was used for pad-steam dyeing method.

Pad-stream dyeing method

Fabric samples were dyed by 0.5%, 1%, 3% shade with Reactive Red HE8B dye and the relevant amounts of inorganic electrolyte and alkali or organic salt) by padding (two dip–two nip, 70% liquor pick-up, Benz laboratory padder, Germany). The padded fabrics were then steamed for 60 sec (Figure 5). The whole experiment was divided into three parts;

• Normal reactive dyeing method on cotton-used as the referencevalue experiment

• Salt free reactive dyeing on cotton in acidic medium with a pHof 2.5-3.5

• Salt free alkaline dyeing in a alkaline medium with a pH of 11.0-12.0

After completion of the all the dyeing method (Figure 1) we had compared those method to each other in terms of its superiority with respect to some of the properties like; rubbing fastness, bending length

and modulus, flexural modulus, % effluent produces (% AOX i.e. absorbable organic halides) etc.

AbstractThe reactive dye produce a lot of effluent problems in terms of % AOX, BOD, COD, TDS etc. in spite of its

capability of produce wide range of colours and varieties of gamut in hue. In addition the use of salt as electrolytes provides higher chances of eco-hazardous impact problems and end-users comfort related properties. The % dye fixation is being always a problem to reactive dyeing on cotton due to the higher degree of dye hydrolyzation inside the dye bath. In this current work we had tried to develop an unconventional reactive process in both like salt free acidic medium reactive dyeing and salt free alkaline dyeing on pure cotton fabric. Results of the current study shows that alkaline medium salt free reactive dyeing on cotton shows higher colour strength (K/S value), good mechanical properties-bending length modulus, flexural modulus, less generation of the % AOX etc. It also can be concluded that acidic medium salt free reactive dyeing is also better in terms of quality than the conventional reactive dyeing method in the industries.

Clever Strategies: Salt Free Dyeing Design with Acidic (Neucleophilic Dyeing Method) and Alkaline (Electrophilic Dyeing Method) Process on Pure Cotton Fabric by Using Reactive DyeKunal S1*, Arijit DV2, Dhalwinder S2, Joshika G2, Shanti K3, Satyajit B3, Chakraborty3 and Raja M3

1Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Engineering, Panipat Institute of Engineering & Technology, Harayana, India2Department of Textile Engineering, Panipat Institute of Engineering & Technology, Harayana, India3Department of Textile Technology, Govt. College of Engineering and Textile Technology, West Bengal, India

*Corresponding author: Kunal S, Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Engineering, Panipat Institute of Engineering & Technology, Harayana, India, E-mail: kunalsingha28@gmail.com

Received June 14, 2013; Accepted August 23, 2013; Published August 28, 2013

Citation: Kunal S, Arijit DV, Dhalwinder S, Joshika G, Shanti K, et al. (2013) Clever Strategies: Salt Free Dyeing Design with Acidic (Neucleophilic Dyeing Method) and Alkaline (Electrophilic Dyeing Method) Process on Pure Cotton Fabric by Using Reactive Dye. J Textile Sci Eng 3: 135. doi:10.4172/2165-8064.1000135

Copyright: © 2013 Kunal S, et al. This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited.

To reduce thecharge repulsionbetween thenegativelycharged cottonand the anionicdyes

Salt ion

Dye anion Fabric(Zetapotential)

Act as exhaustingagents

4 A

Dye Bath

Interboding between dye100 Aand fabric- dyeing

completion

Figure 1: The role of salt in commercial dyeing process.

% shade Soda ash Salt0.5% 10 gpl 30 gpl 1% 15 gpl 45 gpl 3% 20 gpl 70 gpl

Table 1: Recipe for normal reactive dyeing on cotton.

Journal of Textile Science & EngineeringJo

urna

l of T

extile

S cience &Engineering

ISSN: 2165-8064

Citation: Kunal S, Arijit DV, Dhalwinder S, Joshika G, Shanti K, et al. (2013) Clever Strategies: Salt Free Dyeing Design with Acidic (Neucleophilic Dyeing Method) and Alkaline (Electrophilic Dyeing Method) Process on Pure Cotton Fabric by Using Reactive Dye. J Textile Sci Eng 3: 135. doi:10.4172/2165-8064.1000135

Page 2 of 3

Volume 3 • Issue 3 • 1000135J Textile Sci EngISSN: 2165-8064 JTESE, an open access journal

The normal cotton dyeing method with reactive dye has been shown as below (MLR=1:10) (Table 1).

Color yield and fixation

Color strength (K/S) was measured using a Premier Colorscan Spectrophotometer SS 5100A (Premier Colorscan Instrument Pvt. Ltd.) with the specific arrangement of light source-Pulsed Xenon, dual beam, wavelength-10 nm, larger area view -25.4 mm diameter, smaller area view-12.0 mm diameter at the maximum absorption.

% of exhaustion=% E=[1/ {1+(r/K}]×100 (1)

Where r=MLR, K=partition coefficient between the material and the dye liquor.

Color fastness

For color fastness testing, the dyed samples were soaped with 2 gpl nonionic detergent at boil for 30 min. After dyeing we had used Crockmeter (PARAMOUNT, ISO 9001-2000 group) to analyze rubbing fastness and then after rubbing fastness all the samples are tested by PARAMOUNT GRADING SCALE NO.2 (Grey scale for evaluating staining IOS, AO3, AATCC). Then the bending rigidity of all samples were calculated by stiffness tester ISO 9001-2000 with angle of inclination=41.5⁰. The light fastness has also checked by the and light (BS 1006: 1990 UKTN).

Effluent treatment

% AOX (% absorbable organic halides) in the dye liquor at the

% AOX=C×(100-E) 35.5×H/10VM (2)

Where; C= concentration of the dye (gpl), E=% exhaustion of dye (calculated by the help of eqn.1), H=theoretical halogen content%, V=dye bath volume (lit), M=molecular weight of halogen (Figures 2-8) and (Tables 2-5).

Results and DiscussionsMechanical properties

Mechanical properties are improving in case of saltfree basic

Cold washing

m:l ratio = 1:10ALKALI

30-60 mins80-850C

500C

20 mins

pH-7 SALT (in3proportion)

10 mins

Figure 2: Dyeing cycle for normal reactive dyeing on cotton.

m:l ratio = 1:10NaoH

Cold washing

30 mins

25 mins450 C

CH3COOH30 mins

Na2CO3

960C

pH=2.5-3.5

250C 10 mins

600C

Figure 3: Dyeing cycle for acidic dye in acidic pH (2.5-3.5) on cotton.

30 mins

m:l ratio = 1:10NaOH600C

Na2CO3

25 mins

30 m

ins

Cold washing

450C

960CNa2CO3

30 mins

pH=11-12CH3COOH

10 mins25oC

Figure 4: Dyeing cycle for acidic dye in basic pH (11.0-12.0) on cotton.

Figure 5: (a) Grey fabric (b) normally dyed cotton fabric with reactive dye (c) salt free acidic medium reactive dyed fabric (d) salt free alkaline dyed fabric (all the dyed fabric has taken as of 0.5% shade).

Grey fabric

Normal reactive

Saltfree aciddyed

Saltfree alkali dyed

Bending length, C (cm)

Cat

egor

ies

of s

ampl

e dy

ed

0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4

0.308

0.2695

0.231

0.192

0.1155

0.154

0.1925

3.0% shade

0.5% shade

dyed

Figure 6: Comparisons between the bending length (C) values under all categories of dyeing at 0.5%, 3% shade with respect to the grey fabric.

3.0% shade

90.9

158.42

223.94

99.758

0 50 100 150 200 250

46.956 0.5% shade

11.813

24.035

Flexural Modulus, G (mg/cm)

Normalrective dyed

Saltfree aciddyed

Saltfree alkali dyed

Cat

egor

ies

of s

ampl

es d

yed

Figure 7: Comparisons between the flexural modulus (G) values under all categories of dyeing at 0.5%, 3% shade with respect to the grey fabric.

Citation: Kunal S, Arijit DV, Dhalwinder S, Joshika G, Shanti K, et al. (2013) Clever Strategies: Salt Free Dyeing Design with Acidic (Neucleophilic Dyeing Method) and Alkaline (Electrophilic Dyeing Method) Process on Pure Cotton Fabric by Using Reactive Dye. J Textile Sci Eng 3: 135. doi:10.4172/2165-8064.1000135

Page 3 of 3

Volume 3 • Issue 3 • 1000135J Textile Sci EngISSN: 2165-8064 JTESE, an open access journal

medium reactive dyeing shows more mechanical properties than the standard commercial reactive dyeing process (n=6).

ConclusionSalt free reactive dyed fabric in basic or alkaline medium provide

the maximum mechanical properties in the fabric and also salt free alkaline medium reactive dyed fabric provides enhanced stiffness in the fabric than the salt free acidic medium reactive dyeing method or even superior than normal reactive dyeing on cotton. Rubbing fastness salt free alkaline medium reactive dyed fabric is higher than others categories of the dyeing process. In case of salt less acidic medium excessive acetic acid or for the case of salt less basic medium excess base sodium carbonate Na2CO3 in dye bath will cause generation of nucleophiles (shifting of cell-O-charges due to bathochromic shift from the liquor to the substrates) and electrophiles respectively. In the subsequent step the nucleophiles will attach to cellulose molecule and electrophiles will attach to dye molecule [1]. Hence larger will be the interbonding and interfolding of dye segments (dye molecules) between cellulose (substrates) and the dye molecules will occurs in the dye bath liquor. As a results the ratio of the dye % in the fiber [Df] and dye in the liquor [DS] i.e. partition coefficient (k= [Df] / [DS] and k is equivalent to color strength, K found by the UV-visible spectrophometer instrument used here for the experiment) will always remain at a higher value which actually facilitates to the better dye penetration and dye absorption on to the fabric at a given thermodynamically plot. The other reason of these may be the cotton is more stable in the basic medium than the acidic medium due to the stability of the –CHO group inside the cotton in acidic medium (-CHO+H2-CH2-+[O]) and the dissociation will occurs due to the nascent oxygen but in basic medium the cotton will more stable (–CHO+[O]-COOH, and the -COOH group) is more dimer stable group in basic medium. As a consequence higher will be the color soaked, the effective mass-momentum inertia of the fabric also will increase and these will leads to results as higher stiffness and other properties like bending rigidity, flexural modulus etc [2].

References

1. DID Rattee (1985) Landmarks in the Technology of Coloration and Implications for the Future. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists 14: 50-58.

2. Allegre C (2006) Treatment and reuse of reactive dyeing effluents. Journal of Membrane Science 269: 15-34.

Grey fabric

Normal reactive

Saltfree Aciddyed

Saltfree Alkali

dyed

dyed

Bending modulus, q (kg/ cm2)

0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 1.2

0.11430.0562

0.75340.2233

1.065

0.4744

0.432

3.0%shade

0.5 %shade

Cat

egor

ies

of s

ampl

es d

yed

Figure 8: Comparisons between the bending modulus (q) values under all categories of dyeing at 0.5%, 3% shade with respect to the grey fabric.

% shade Soda ash NaOH Acetic acid Salt0.50% 10 gpl 2 gpl 10 gpl - 1% 10 gpl 2 gpl 10 gpl - 3% 2 gpl 2 gpl 10 gpl -

Table 2: Recipe for reactive dye in acidic pH on cotton.

% shade Soda ash NaOH Acetic acid Salt0.50% 14 gpl 2 gpl 1.5-2 gpl - 1% 14 gpl 2 gpl 1.5-2 gpl - 3% 14 gpl 2 gpl 1.5-2 gpl -

Table 3: Recipe for reactive dye in basic pH on cotton.

Wavelength, nm

K/S Value (Acid)

K/S Value (Alkaline)

K/S Value (Standard)

K/S Value (Acid-

Standard)

K/S Value (Alkaline-Standard)

650 0.153 0.156 0.150 0.003 0.006660 0.145 0.147 0.135 0.010 0.012670 0.140 0.144 0.127 0.013 0.017680 0.137 0.145 0.123 0.014 0.022690 0.134 0.145 0.118 0.016 0.027700 0.131 0.144 0.114 0.017 0.030

Table 4: Comparisons between the K/S value under all category of dyeing at 0.5% shade.

Sample R (=MLR) K (gm/lit) %E %AOX, mg/litStandard reactive dyeing method 10 0.114 53.27 5.81Acid medium-nucleophile method 10 0.131 56.81 5.39Basic medium-electrophile method 10 0.144 59.17 5.10

Table 5a: The comparisons between the effluent % AOX content over the various process.

Sample Grey scale reading InterferenceStandard reactive dyeing method 2.5-3.0 FairAcid medium-nucleophile method 3.0-4.0 Noticeable goodBasic medium-electrophile method 4.0-4.5 Excellent

Table 5b: Grey scale reading of dyed fabric.

Citation: Kunal S, Arijit DV, Dhalwinder S, Joshika G, Shanti K, et al. (2013) Clever Strategies: Salt Free Dyeing Design with Acidic (Neucleophilic Dyeing Method) and Alkaline (Electrophilic Dyeing Method) Process on Pure Cotton Fabric by Using Reactive Dye. J Textile Sci Eng 3: 135. doi:10.4172/2165-8064.1000135

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