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Business Consulting Project Prepared for: Andrea McKenzie, Zero Waste Specialist, City of Vancouver & Ileana Costrut, Projects Coordinator, CityStudio Vancouver Prepared by: Lauren Bostwick Dave Ferriday Dhilip Venkatachalam BCIT Advisor: Linda Butterfield 2018 Textile Recycling: The Clothing Provider Perspective

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Page 1: Textile Recycling - The Clothing Provider Perspective · 12/5/2018  · Textile Recycling: The Clothing Provider Perspective 8 Clothing items may also be recycled by selling or giving

BusinessConsultingProject

Preparedfor:AndreaMcKenzie,ZeroWasteSpecialist,CityofVancouver&

IleanaCostrut,ProjectsCoordinator,CityStudioVancouver

Preparedby:

LaurenBostwick

DaveFerriday

DhilipVenkatachalam

BCITAdvisor:LindaButterfield

2018

TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 1

Executive Summary

TheCityofVancouverisworkingtostrengthentheirresearchtobettersupporttheirZero

Waste2040StrategicPlan.Thisplanincludesanapparelwastereductionstrategywhich

aimstoeliminatethedisposaloftextilewastetotheCityofVancouverlandfill.Ourteam

wastaskedwithidentifyingtherolethatno-costclothingprovidershaveinthisinitiative

whilesupportingthecommunitysocialneedsofVancouver.

Key Findings

• Therearefourcharacteristicsofclothingdonationscausingissueswithinthecollectionandsortingprocesses:

o Non-applicableclothing

o Unusableclothing

o Damagedclothing

o Notenoughclothing

• Theproblemsfoundinthecollectionandsortingprocessesdirectlyimpacttheoutcomeofclothingdonations.Therearethreeoutcomesfordonations:

o Distribution

o Recycling

o Landfill

• Drop-offcollectionmethodsarepreferredbyclothingprovidersduetotheincreaseindonorownership.Donorownershipisdefinedashavinghigherownershipovertheclothingthatisbeingdonated,asthedonorisrequiredtointeractwiththepersonsortingtheirdonation.

• Donationdrop-offperiodsareaffectedbyseasonality.

• Laundryfacilitieshavealargeimpactonreducingtheamountofdonatedclothingdisposedtothelandfill.

Recommendations

Basedontheproblemscreatedbytheclothingdonationcharacteristics,thefollowing

short-termactionsarerecommended:

• Buildingrelationshipsbetweenclothingprovidersandsortergraderstopromotetextilerecycling.

• MarketingtheWasteWizardtooltoincreasepublicawarenessofdisposaloptions.

• AccuratelyrepresentclothingproviderrequirementsontheWasteWizardtoincreasepublicknowledgeofdonationconditions.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 2

Table of Contents Executive Summary ................................................................................................................ 1

Key Findings ..................................................................................................................................... 1 Recommendations ........................................................................................................................... 1

List of Figures ......................................................................................................................... 3 List of Tables .......................................................................................................................... 4 Introduction ........................................................................................................................... 5 Key Findings ........................................................................................................................... 7

Primary Issues and Outcomes ........................................................................................................... 7 Drop-Off Collection Methods ............................................................................................................ 8 Unpredictable Clothing Donations .................................................................................................... 8 Laundry Facilities .............................................................................................................................. 9

Methodology ......................................................................................................................... 10 Phase 1: Data Gathering ................................................................................................................. 10 Phase 2: Data Analysis .................................................................................................................... 12

Analysis of Findings ............................................................................................................... 13 Phase 1: Data Gathering ................................................................................................................. 14 Phase 2: Data Analysis .................................................................................................................... 17

Collection .................................................................................................................................................. 18 Sorting ...................................................................................................................................................... 21 Distribution ............................................................................................................................................... 23 Recycling ................................................................................................................................................... 24 Landfill ...................................................................................................................................................... 24

Recommendations ................................................................................................................ 25 Short-Term Recommendations ....................................................................................................... 25

Sorter Graders ........................................................................................................................................... 25 Marketing the Waste Wizard ..................................................................................................................... 25 Detailed Representation ............................................................................................................................ 26

Future Recommendations .............................................................................................................. 26 Public Education ........................................................................................................................................ 27 Recycling Program ..................................................................................................................................... 27 Clothing Manufacturer Accountability ....................................................................................................... 27

Areas for Further Investigation ....................................................................................................... 28 Markham, Ontario ..................................................................................................................................... 28 Children’s Clothing .................................................................................................................................... 28 Laundry Services ....................................................................................................................................... 28

Conclusion ............................................................................................................................. 30 Acknowledgements ............................................................................................................... 31 Bibliography .......................................................................................................................... 32 Appendices ........................................................................................................................... 33 Appendix A: Terms of Reference ........................................................................................... 34 Appendix B: Interview/Survey Request Email ........................................................................ 40 Appendix C: Interview Questions ........................................................................................... 41 Appendix D: Survey ............................................................................................................... 44 Appendix E: Informed Consent Form ..................................................................................... 49 Appendix F: Thank You Email ................................................................................................ 51 Appendix G: Alphanumeric Coding ........................................................................................ 52

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 3

Appendix H: Process Maps .................................................................................................... 57 Appendix H-1: Working Gear Process Maps ........................................................................... 58 Appendix H-2: Downtown Eastside Women’s Centre Process Maps ....................................... 60 Appendix H-3: Salvation Army Process Maps ......................................................................... 63 Appendix H-4: Dress for Success Process Maps ...................................................................... 65 Appendix H-5: Union Gospel Mission Process Maps ............................................................... 67 Appendix H-6: Men’s Hostel Process Maps ............................................................................ 69 Appendix I: Qualitative Coding Results .................................................................................. 71 Appendix J: High-Level Process Map ...................................................................................... 77 Appendix K: Relationship Diagrams ....................................................................................... 78 Appendix K-1: Relationship Diagram – Distribution Outcome ................................................ 79 Appendix K-2: Relationship Diagram – Recycling Outcome .................................................... 80 Appendix K-3: Relationship Diagram – Landfill Outcome ....................................................... 81

List of Figures

Figure 1: City Strategies Contributing to the Zero Waste Strategy – initially set for 2020 ........ 5 Figure 2: Drop-off Collection and Sorting Process Map for Men's Hostel ................................ 16 Figure 3: Issues Found in the Collection Process .................................................................... 18 Figure 4: High-Level Process Map .......................................................................................... 23 Figure 5: Relationship Diagram for the Distribution Outcome ................................................ 23 Figure 6: Circular Laundromat Process Map ........................................................................... 29 Figure 7: Clothing Providers in the City of Vancouver Google Forms ...................................... 44 Figure 8: Working Gear Collection and Sorting Processes ....................................................... 58 Figure 9: Working Gear Distribution Process .......................................................................... 59 Figure 10: DEWC Collection Process ....................................................................................... 60 Figure 11: DEWC Sorting Process ........................................................................................... 61 Figure 12: DEWC Distribution Process .................................................................................... 62 Figure 13: Salvation Army Collection and Sorting Process ...................................................... 63 Figure 14: Salvation Army Distribution Process ...................................................................... 64 Figure 15: Dress for Success Collection and Sorting Process ................................................... 65 Figure 16: Dress for Success Distribution Process ................................................................... 66 Figure 17: Union Gospel Mission Collection and Sorting Process ............................................ 67 Figure 18: Union Gospel Mission Distribution Process ........................................................... 68 Figure 19: Men's Hostel Collection and Sorting Process ......................................................... 69 Figure 20: Men's Hostel Distribution Process ......................................................................... 70 Figure 21: Graph of Issues Found Within the Collection Process ............................................ 75 Figure 22: Graph of Issues Found Within the Sorting Process ................................................. 76 Figure 23: High-Level Process Map ........................................................................................ 77 Figure 24: Distribution Relationship Diagram ......................................................................... 79 Figure 25: Recycling Relationship Diagram ............................................................................. 80 Figure 26: Landfill Relationship Diagram ................................................................................ 81

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 4

List of Tables

Table 1: Sample of Interview Questions ................................................................................. 10 Table 2: Coded Answers ........................................................................................................ 12 Table 3: Completed Coding Sample ....................................................................................... 17 Table 4: Alphanumeric Coding Format ................................................................................... 52 Table 5: Coding Results .......................................................................................................... 72

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 5

Introduction

WeareastudentteamfromtheBCITSchoolofBusinessintheBusinessOperations

Managementprogram.Ourteamincludesthreestudents:LaurenBostwick,DaveFerriday,

andDhilipVenkatachalam.

OurteamhascollaboratedwiththeCityofVancouverandCityStudioVancouverbetween

themonthsofSeptember2018–December2018.Wehavebeentaskedwithcompleting

backgroundresearchtosupportthedevelopmentofanApparelWasteReductionStrategy

bytheCityofVancouver.ThisstrategyisoutlinedintheZeroWaste2040StrategicPlan

whichfocusesonthelong-termeliminationofthedisposalofsolidwastetolandfillsand

incineratorsbytheyear2040(TheCityofVancouver,2018).

Figure 1: City Strategies Contributing to the Zero Waste Strategy – initially set for 2020

(The City of Vancouver, 2018)

Apparelwasteisoneofthefastestgrowingwastestreamsintheworld.NorthAmerican’s

send9.5milliontonnesofclothingtothelandfilleveryyear(TextilesWaste:TheFacts,

2018).InCanada,itisestimatedthat500,000tonnesofapparelaredisposedofannually,

withtheCityofVancouveralonedisposingof6,500tonnesofappareleachyear(Storry&

McKenzie,2018).

Thepurposeofthisprojectistounderstandhowclothingproviderscurrentlyhelpto

reduceapparelwastewhilesupportingVancouver’scommunitysocialresponsibilities.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 6

Clothingprovidersaredefinedasorganizationsthatcollectclothingtodirectlydistributeto

individualsinneedatnocost.Theseorganizationsmayinclude:

• Shelters

• Communitycentres

• Thriftstoresofferingfreeclothingprograms

• Othernon-profitorganizations

OurprojectwillnotincludeclothingprovidersoutsidetheCityofVancouver.Thetermsof

thisprojectareoutlinedinAppendixAfortheTermsofReference.

Thisreportwilldiscussthesesixtopics:

1. KeyFindings

2. Methodology

3. AnalysisofFindings

4. Short-TermRecommendations

5. FutureRecommendations

6. AreasforFurtherInvestigation

Ourfocusisontheservicesprovidedbyclothingprovidersincludingthecollection,

distribution,anddisposalofdonatedapparel.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 7

Key Findings

Theprimaryfindingsfoundduringtheinterviewandsurveyprocessaredetailedinthis

section.

Primary Issues and Outcomes

Wediscoveredfourkeycharacteristicsofclothingdonationsthathaveahighimpactona

clothingprovider’scollectionandsortingprocesses.Thefactorsare:

• Non-applicableclothing

o Itemsdonotmeettheneedsoforganization’stargetdemographic

• Unusableclothing

o Soiledbeyonduse

• Damagedclothing

o Torn,ripped,orstained

• Notenoughclothing

o Shortageofclothingdonationsingoodcondition

Thesecharacteristicsarecausingnineproblemsinthecollectionandsortingprocesses.

Clothingprovidersarecurrentlyexperiencingfiveproblemsfoundwithinthecollection

processandfourwithinthesortingprocess.

Collection:

• Toomuchclothing

• Toolittleclothing

• Insufficientstoragecapacity

• Improperadvertising

• Easeofdonation

Sorting:

• Torn,ripped,stainedclothing

• Non-applicableitemsfor

demographic

• Unusablecondition

• Availablepersonnel

Theproblemsfoundwithinthecollectionandsortingprocessesdirectlyimpactthe

outcomeofdonatedclothing.Therearethreeoutcomesthatmayoccurtoeachdonated

clothingitem.Theoutcomesaredistribution,recycling,ordisposaltothelandfill.Donated

itemsmaybedistributedtoindividualsinneedortootherclothingproviderorganizations.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 8

Clothingitemsmayalsoberecycledbysellingorgivingdamagedornon-applicableitems

tosortergraders.Sortergradersaredefinedasbusinessesthatcollectorbuyclothingand

sortforrecycling,resaleoverseas,andothermarkets.Thethirdoutcomeisthedisposalof

unusableitemstothelandfill.

Drop-Off Collection Methods

Duringourinterviews,welearnedthatfiveclothingprovidershaveselecteddrop-off-only

collectionmethods.Therearetwofactorsforchoosingthismethod:lackofresourcesand

ownershipofdonatedclothing.Itisnotsustainableforthesefiveorganizationstouse

volunteeroremployeehourstopick-upclothingorsortdonationbinitems.

Expandingtopick-uporothercollectionmethodsisnotapriorityfortheorganizations

whousedrop-off-onlymethods.Thisisduetotheincreaseofdonorownershipduring

drop-off.Theseorganizationsbelievethatadonorismorelikelytodrop-offdonationsin

goodconditionbecausetheyarerequiredtointeractwiththepersonsortingtheir

donation.Donorownershipreducestheamountofnon-applicableorunusableclothing

received,whichreducesthetimerequiredforthesortingprocess.

Unpredictable Clothing Donations

Thetiming,amount,andtypeofclothingdonationsreceivedbyeachorganizationis

consistentlyunpredictable.Ourteamlearnedoftwofactorsthatresultinvarying

donations.

Clothingdonationsareoftenseasonal.Clothingprovidersseeaninfluxofdonationsduring

springcleaning,back-to-school,andChristmas.Lowdonationperiodsoftenoccurduring

thesummermonths.Seasonaldonationperiodsfrequentlyincludeclothingfromthe

previousseason,wherewinterclothesarereceivedinthesummerandsummerclothesin

thewinter.

Welearnedthatorganizationshaveunpredictableshortagesofspecificclothingitems.A

recurringconcernwastheshortageofmen’sclothing.Menaremorelikelytowearclothing

eitherlong-termoruntiltheitemisnolongerdonatable.Thisresultsinclothingproviders

issuingcall-outstomeettheirdemand.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 9

Laundry Facilities

Fiveoftheorganizationsthatparticipatedintheinterviewandsurveyprocessdonothave

theresourcestolaunderdonationspriortodistribution.Thetwoclothingprovidersthat

arelaunderingclothinghavesignificantlyreducedtheamountofclothingthatisdisposed

tothelandfill.UnionGospelMission(UGM)hasimplementedlaundryfacilitiesandaRepair

toWearprogram,whichcleansandrepairsclothingdonations.Sincetheseprogramshave

beenimplemented,UGMestimatestheyhavereducedtheamounttheysendtosorter

gradersfrom15-20%to7-8%.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 10

Methodology

Thequalitativeandproblem-solvingtoolsusedtounderstandclothingproviderrolesare

outlinedinthefollowingtwophases.

Phase 1: Data Gathering

InPhase1,ourteamusedfourtoolstogatherqualitativedata.

ThefirststepofthisprojectwastoemailclothingprovidersintheCityofVancouverto

determinewhichorganizationswereinterestedinparticipatinginourinterviews(see

AppendixBforInterview/SurveyRequest).Ourteamcreatedaninterviewquestionnaire,

whichincluded39questions,andaGoogleFormsurveyquestionnaireof32questions.See

Table1forsampleinterviewquestions.

Table 1: Sample of Interview Questions

See Appendix C for Interview Questions

TheinitialquestionlistwasprovidedbytheCityofVancouver.Thequestionsfocusedon

theservicesprovidedbyclothingprovidersandwhathappenstounusedclothing

donations.ThesequestionswerepreviouslyusedtoestablishtheCity’scurrentknowledge

baseoftheflowofapparelinVancouver.Weadaptedtheinitialquestionlisttomeetthe

specificneedsofthisproject.SeeAppendixCforinterviewquestionsandAppendixDfor

Do you feel "clothing provider" is an appropriate term for describing the

services of distributing clothing at no cost?

Do you parter with other organizations who collect, process, or distribute

clothing?

How do you collect clothing? What is your maximum capacity for clothing donations?

What do clients have to do to access your services?

Do you launder clothing donations before distributing?

How do you get the word out to clients that you provide clothing at no cost?

How do you get the word out to clients that you accept donations of clothing?

What do you do with any unusable or excess items you end up with? Do you dispose anything to landfills?

Organizational Questions

Collection Process Questions

Distribution Process Questions

Advertising Questions

Unused Apparel Questions

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 11

surveyquestions.Eachinterviewandsurveyparticipantwererequiredtosignan

InformedConsentForm,showninAppendixE.Weconductedinterviewswithsix

organizationsthatprovideclothingfreeofcost.Wereceivedonesurveyresponsefroman

organizationwhowasunabletoparticipateinaninterview.Theinformationwecollected

provideduswithdetailsofeachorganization’s:

• Generaloperations

• Collectionprocess

• Sortingprocess

• Distribution,recycling,anddisposalprocess

Ourteamfollowedupwiththankyouemailstoeachclothingprovider,showninAppendix

F.Wecreatedaprocessmapforeachinterviewparticipanttovisualizethesix

organization’sprocesses.Aprocessmapisavisual,step-by-step,breakdownofthework

flowrequiredtocompleteanyprocess.Thecollection,sorting,anddistributionprocesses

beginwhenclothingdonationsareacceptedbyanorganizationandendwhenthedonated

clothingleavestheorganizationsfacility.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 12

Phase 2: Data Analysis

InPhase2,ourteamusedthreetools:qualitativecoding,processmaps,andrelationship

diagrams,toanalyzethedatacollectedfromtheinterviewsandsurvey.

Webeganouranalysiswithqualitativecoding;theprocessoforganizingresponsesto

intervieworsurveyquestionsbycommonalityortheme.Weassignedanalphanumeric

code(1A,2B,3C…)toeachpotentialansweroreachinterviewandsurveyquestion(see

AppendixGforcodingformat).Table2showsthecodedanswerstoourfirstinterview

question.Oncetheinterviewandsurveyprocesswerecompleted,theresponsesgivenby

eachorganizationwereassignedanapplicablecode.Thisprocessallowedourteamto

identifyandcategorizecommonresponses.

Table 2: Coded Answers

Followingthequalitativecoding,ourteamcreatedahigh-levelprocessmap.Thisprocess

maphighlightstherecurringissuesinthecollectionandsortingprocesseswhichwere

foundduringthecodingprocess.Theprocessmapresultsinthreepotentialoutcomes;

donateditemsbeingdistributed,recycled,ordisposedtothelandfill.Eachoutcomeisa

resultofspecificrecurringissuesfoundinthecollectionandsortingprocesses.Usingthe

high-levelprocessmap,ourteammappedtherelationshipsbetweenthecollectionand

sortingissuesandtheresultingoutcomes.

Question Coded Answers1A: Clothing1B: Housing, shelter1C: Food1D: Medical1E: Legal1F: Other

What services do you offer?

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 13

Analysis of Findings

Thesevenorganizationswhoparticipatedinthisprojectfollowsimilarprocessesto

providetheirservices.Thecollectionprocessbeginswhenclothingisdonatedtothe

organization.Clothingitemsarethensortedbasedonmultiplefactorswhichinclude:

• Targetdemographic

o Gender

o Age

• Condition

o Usable

o Unusable

• Clothingstyle

o Casual

o Business

o Formal

o Work-related

o Recenttrends

Onceclothingissorted,itisdisplayedintheorganization’sfacilityanddistributedto

individualsinneedatnocost.Allorganizationsareoccasionallyrequiredtodisposeof

clothingtothelandfill,duetopoorcondition.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 14

Phase 1: Data Gathering

Thequestionsourteamaskedduringtheinterviewandsurveyprocessfocusedonfive

areas:organization,collection,distribution,advertising,andunusedapparel.Wereceived

onesurveyresponsefromFirstUnitedChurchandconductedsemi-structuredinterviews

withsixorganizations:

1. WorkingGear

2. DowntownEastsideWomen’sCentre

3. SalvationArmy

4. DressforSuccess

5. UnionGospelMission

6. Men’sHostel

Interviewingtheseclothingprovidersgaveusinsightintotheirday-to-dayoperationsand

theopportunitiesandchallengestheyface.Thenaturalflowofourconversationscreateda

comfortableenvironmenttodiscussthepositiveandnegativeaspectsofeach

organization’sprocesses.Weconductedinterviewsbothin-personandbyphone.During

ourthreein-personinterviews,wehadtheopportunitytotoureachorganization’s

facilities.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 15

OurinterviewwithWorkingGearwasparticularlyeye-openingforourteam,asitwas

conductedduringtheirhoursofoperation.Wewitnessedvolunteerinteractionswith

clients,donationdrop-offs,andhowdonationsaresorted.Wewereabletowatch

volunteerssortincomingdonations,whichallowedustoseehowthesortingcriteriawas

appliedtodonateditems.

Image 1: The Beginning of the Sorting Process at Working Gear

Followingtheinterviewandsurveyprocess,wecreatedprocessmapsforeach

organization.Theprocessmapsfocusontwoprocesses:

• Collectionandsorting

• Distribution

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 16

Figure2representsthecurrentcollectionandsortingprocessatMen’sHostel(see

AppendixHforProcessMaps).

Figure 2: Drop-off Collection and Sorting Process Map for Men's Hostel

See Appendix H-6 for Detailed Men’s Hostel Process Maps

Akeystepinthedrop-offcollectionandsortingprocessofMen’sHostelis“washclothing”.

Thisisanotablestepasonlytwoparticipatingclothingproviderslaunderclothingbefore

distribution.HavingalaundryfacilityreducestheamountofclothingdisposedbyMen’s

Hostel.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 17

Phase 2: Data Analysis

Phase2beganwithcodingthedatacollectedduringtheinterviewandsurveyprocess.

Usingtheassignedalphanumericcodes,ourteamestablishedcommonthemeswithinthe

interviewandsurveyresponses(seeAppendixIforCodingResults).Table3showsa

sampleofacodedquestionresponse.

Table 3: Completed Coding Sample

See Appendix I for Coding Results

*Providers are abbreviated based on name

Followingourcodingmethod,wefoundfourkeyareasthatleadtofurtherissuesfor

clothingproviders.Theareasare:

• Non-applicableclothing

• Unusableclothing

• Damagedclothing

• Seasonaldonations

Wehavedefined“non-applicable”asitemsofclothingthatarenotsuitableforthe

organization’stargetdemographic.“Unusable”isdefinedasanarticleofclothingthatis

soiledbeyonduseandmustbedisposedof.“Damaged”isdefinedasitemsthataretorn,

ripped,orstained.Theseitemsmaystillhavefurtheruse,requiringminorrepairor

laundering.SeasonaldonationscouldbeaninfluxofdonationsbeforeChristmasora

decreaseofdonationsduringthesummer.Wefurtheranalyzedthesekeyareasandfound

fiveissueswithinthecollectionprocessandfourissueswithinthesortingprocess.

Question Coded Answers Providers*27A: Give to other providers DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM, MH, FU27B: Sell in thrift stores UGM, SA27C: Consign WG, DFS27D: Throw away DEWC27E: Sorter graders/upcycle WG, DFS, UGM, SA27F: Other WG, MH

What do you do with not applicable or excess items you end up with?

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 18

Collection

Ouranalysisincludeddefiningthefiveissuesfoundinthecollectionprocess.Figure3

showstheidentifiedissues.Thedarkestshadeindicatesthehighestoccurringissueandthe

lightestshadethelowestoccurring.Theuseofthesameshadeshowsthatthesame

numberoforganizationsindicatedtheissue.

Figure 3: Issues Found in the Collection Process

Too Much Clothing

Arecurringproblemamongclothingprovidersisreceivingtoomuchclothing.Ourteam

dividedtheissueoftoomuchclothingintotwoareas:toomuchforanorganization’s

capacityandtoomanynon-applicableorunusableitems.Storageandpersonnelcapacity

arefurtherdiscussedasseparateissues.

Allsevenclothingprovidersindicatedthattheyreceivetoomanynon-applicableand/or

unusabledonations.Non-applicableitemswillbesortedandsenttootherclothing

providersandunusableitemswillbedisposedtothelandfill.Significantvolunteerand

employeehoursarerequiredtosortnon-applicableandunusabledonations.Thisissueis

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 19

causedbyalackofawarenessfromclothingdonorsofwhichorganizationsservicespecific

demographicsorwhenclothingisconsideredtobeingoodorpoorcondition.

Too Little Clothing

Duringtheinterviews,welearnedthatfiveorganizationsrequiremoredonatedclothingin

goodconditiontomeetdemand.Notmeetingdemandcouldinclude:

• Item-specificdemand,suchassocks,underwear,orouterwear

• Gender-specificdemand

• Shortageofitemsduringlowdonationperiods

Arecurringcommentduringourinterviewswasthatmendonotdonateasmuchclothing.

Menaremorelikelytoweartheirclothinguntilitisunusable,whichresultsinahigher

demandofmen’sclothing.Itemsincludingsocksandunderweararealsohighlydemanded

butaredonatedinfrequently.

Organizationsoftenovercomeashortageofspecificclothingitemsbyissuingacall-outto

thepublic,retailers,churches,schools,andotherorganizations.Acall-outisarequestto

thepublicorspecificorganizationsforclothingdonations.Organizationsmaypurchase

itemsasnecessary,butitisnotasustainablepractice.Clothingproviderslooktosource

partnershipswithlargeretailersbutdonothavethepersonneltocreatethese

relationships.

Storage Capacity

Storagecapacityisanissuethataffectsfiveoftheclothingprovidersweinterviewedor

surveyed.Thefiveorganizationsarelimitedtothespacewithintheircurrentworkplace.

Thishasresultedintwoprovidershavingtoturningdonorsaway.SalvationArmyand

UnionGospelMissionhavedistributioncentrestosorttheiritems,thereforestorage

capacityisnotafactor.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 20

Improper Advertising

Welearnedthatclothingprovidersarereluctanttopubliclyadvertisethattheyaccept

donatedclothing.Althoughadvertisingtheirservicesleadstoaninfluxindonations,

organizationsareoftenoverwhelmedbytheamountofnon-applicableorunusableclothing

received.

TheCityofVancouverhascreatedtheWasteWizard,anonlinetoolforVancouver

residentstolearnwheretoproperlydisposeofwaste.Thiswebsiteallowstheuserto

searchtheitemfordisposal,whichthenshowsallthewaysforproperdisposalandwhere

theitemcanbetakenfordisposal.AlthoughtheWasteWizardfeaturesanareaspecificto

clothingdonationandrecycling,onlythreeclothingproviderparticipantsarelistedonthis

website.TheWasteWizarddoesnotdetailwhichitemsareacceptedbyeachorganization

ordefinetheexpectedconditionofclothing.Thisresultsinmisrepresentationofclothing

providersandcreatesaninfluxofnon-applicableorunusableclothingdonations.

Ease of Donation

Drop-offclothingdonationsaremorelikelytooccurifthelocationoftheclothing

provider’sfacilityiseasilyaccessedbythedonor.Thelayoutofthefacilityisalsoa

contributingfactortotheeaseofdonation.WelearnedthatDressforSuccessfaces

difficultywiththeircurrentlocation.DressforSuccesshasbeentoldbydonorsthatthey

finditdifficulttodropoffdonations.Thisisbecausetheirreceivingareaisonthesecond

floorofthebuilding,intheheartofdowntownVancouver.Donorsmustfindaplacetopark

andwalkupstairstodrop-offdonations,hinderinglargedonations.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 21

Sorting

Wedefinedthefourrecurringissuesfoundwithinthesortingprocess,whichareshownin

Figure4.Thedarkestgreenindicatesthemostfrequentlyoccurringissue,withthelightest

greenindicatingtheleastfrequent.

Figure 4: Issues Found in the Sorting Process

Torn, Ripped, and Stained Donations

Receivingdamagedclothingisthemostfrequentissuefoundinthesortingprocessandis

commonamongallsevenorganizations.Damageddonationshavethepotentialtobeused

byorganizations,butfeworganizationshavetheresourcestomanagedamageditems.

ClothingproviderslikeUnionGospelMissionhaveimplementedprogramssuchas“Repair

toWear”tofixandreusedonations.UGMhasalsoinvestedinlaundrymachinestowash

stainedordirtyitemsforreuse.Generalpracticeforotherorganizationsistodominor

repairforrippedclothing.Ifthedamageditemcannotbesewnbyhandorthestainistoo

severe,clothingwilleitherbedistributedtootherorganizations,recycled,orthrownaway.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 22

Non-applicable for Target Demographic

Fourclothingprovidersarecurrentlyreceivingclothingthatdoesnotapplytotheirtarget

demographic.Onceanon-applicableitemisreceived,itwillbedistributedtootherclothing

providersorsoldinconsignmentstores.Thisresultsinadditionalsortingforvolunteers

andemployeesandexcessuseofstoragecapacity.

OrganizationssuchasFirstUnitedChurchhavetakenstepstoeliminatereceivingitems

thatarenon-applicabletotheirclients.Theyhaverecentlypartneredwithalargeresale

chainandnolongeracceptpublicdonations.Withthispartnership,FirstUnitedwilldoa

call-outtoasneeded,resultinginreceivingonlyclothingitemsthatmatchtheircurrent

demand.

Unusable Condition

Receivingunusabledonationsisaninfrequentoccurrencebutallsevenorganizationshave

receiveditemsinpoorcondition.Welearnedthatorganizationshavereceivedinfested

donationbagsandevenitemssoiledwithfecalmatter.Clothingprovidershavefewchoices

besidesdisposingoftheseitemstothelandfill.

Fourofthesevenclothingprovidersprefertohavedonationsdroppedoffattheirfacility.

Drop-offispreferredbecausetheseorganizationsbelieveadonorismorelikelytodrop-off

goodconditionclothingversusunusableclothing.Usingthismethodincreasesownership

ofdonatedclothing.

Personnel Capacity

Personnelcapacityaffectseachoftheissuesuncoveredintheanalysisofthesorting

process.Donationsthatarenon-applicable,damaged,orunusabletakeupvaluable

volunteerandemployeetime.OrganizationssuchasWorkingGearhaveexpressedinterest

inexpandingtheirbusinessbutdonotcurrentlyhavethevolunteerorcapacityresources.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 23

Onceourteamhaddefinedeachissue,wecreatedahigh-levelprocessmap.Figure4shows

theprocessmapwhichillustratesthecurrentprocessesofclothingproviders(see

AppendixJforHigh-LevelProcessMap).

Figure 4: High-Level Process Map

Distribution

Theobjectiveofclothingprovidersistodistributedonationstoindividualsinneedof

clothingatnocost.Wehaveestablishedtwooutcomesofdistribution.Donatedclothing

thatisconsideredapplicabletotheorganizationwillgotoaclient.Iftheclothingisnon-

applicable,itwillgotoanotherclothingprovider.

Withthedefinedcollectionandsortingissues,wecreatedrelationshipdiagramsforeach

potentialoutcome.Therelationshipdiagramforthedistributionoutcomeisshownin

Figure5.

Figure 5: Relationship Diagram for the Distribution Outcome

See Appendix K-1 for Distribution Relationship Diagram

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 24

Recycling

Ifdonateditemsarenotapplicabletotheclothingprovidernorsuitablefordistributionto

otherproviders,theitemsmaybesentorsoldtosortergraders.Twoorganizationsare

currentlyparticipatinginarecyclingprogramwithsortergraders.Thisformofrecycling

mayincluderepurposingclothingbycreatingmultipleragsfromonegarment.The

relationshipdiagramfortherecyclingoutcomeisshowninAppendixK-2.

Landfill

Disposingitemstothelandfillisthethirdoutcomeforclothingdonations.Each

organizationfacesoccasionalsituationsthatrequiredisposal.Thesesituationsinclude

infestedandsoileddonations.SeeAppendixK-3forthelandfillrelationshipdiagram.

Ourteamidentifiedfiverelationshipsbetweenthecollectionandsortingprocessissues,

andthedistributionoutcome.Wealsoidentifiedtworelationshipsthatresultinthe

recyclingoutcome,andtwodifferentrelationshipsthatresultinthelandfilloutcome.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 25

Recommendations

Ourteamhasmaderecommendationsfor:

• Short-term

• Future

• Areasforfurtherinvestigation

Short-Term Recommendations

Basedonouranalysisoftheinformationcollected,werecommendtheCityofVancouver

supportclothingprovidersreducewasteintheshort-termby:

• Connectingsortergraderstoclothingproviders

• MarketingtheWasteWizard

• RepresenteachconsentingorganizationontheWasteWizardwhichdetailsspecific

donationrequirements

Sorter Graders

Arecurringtopicdiscussedinourinterviewswasthatitwouldbehelpfultohaveaclothing

recyclingbinpickedupbytheCity.Ourteamrecommendsbridgingarelationshipbetween

sortergradersandclothingproviderstoeducatetheorganizationsonsortergrader

recyclingmethods.Scheduledpick-upscanbearrangedwiththesortergraderstoensure

thatclothingprovidersarenotoverwhelmedwithexcessclothing,similartoaCity-run

recyclingprogram.Additionally,organizationscangeneraterevenuefromthesaleof

clothingtosortergraders.Thiswillimprovethecurrentsortingprocessandreducethe

disposalofclothingtothelandfill.

Marketing the Waste Wizard

IncreasingtheawarenessoftheWasteWizardtoMetroVancouverresidentswillalert

userstotherecyclingoptionsavailable.WerecommendthattheWasteWizardismarketed

higher,inaccessiblelocationssuchaspublictransit.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 26

Detailed Representation

WerecommendthattheCityissueasimplesurveytoeachclothingproviderthatprovides

consenttobeincludedontheWasteWizard.Thesurveyshouldincludethreetopics:

1. General

o Organizationname

o Address

o Contactinformation

o Hoursofoperations

2. TargetCustomerBase

o Detailedinformationabouttheorganization’sclothingserviceandwhothey

serve

3. DonationRequirements

o Whatisconsidered“clothingingoodcondition”

o Howtodonate(drop-off,pick-up,etc.)

o Specificarticlesthatarealwaysrequired

Oncethesurveyhasbeencompletedbyclothingproviders,theinformationcanbe

displayedontheWasteWizardforVancouverresidentstoaccess.Thiswillimprovethe

currentcollectionandsortingprocessesbyreducingtheamountofunusableandnon-

applicableitemsreceivedbyclothingproviders.

Future Recommendations

Followingtheshort-termrecommendations,ourteamhasdevelopedthree

recommendationsforfutureconsideration.Theserecommendationsfocusonthefollowing

topics:

1. Publiceducation

2. Recyclingprogram

3. Clothingmanufactureraccountability

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 27

Public Education

Priortothisstudy,ourteammembersdidnotknowwhereourclothingdonationswent.

Oncethisprojectbegan,wewereprovidedtheopportunitytosee,first-hand,howour

clothingissortedandwhereitisdistributed.

Duringtheinterviewandsurveyprocess,welearnedthatthegeneralpublic,likeus,is

unawareofwheretheirclothingdonationsgo.Similartotheeducationofsoftplastic

recyclingorcomposting,theCityshouldincreasepublicknowledgeabouttheservices

providedbyclothingproviders.Publicunderstandingofproperdonationmethodswill

improvethecollectionandsortingmethodsforclothingproviders.

Recycling Program

OurteamrecommendsimplementingclothingrecyclingresourcesatCitytransferstations.

Thepurposeoftheserecyclingbinsistoreducethedisposalofclothingatthelandfill.The

binswillbeaccessiblebythegeneralpublicandwillacceptclothingthatisnotfitfor

donation.Itemsthatarenotfitfordonationmayincludeitemssuchasrippedsocksor

underwear.ThisrecyclingprogrammaygenerateadditionalrevenuefortheCitywiththe

saleofclothingtosortergraders.

Clothing Manufacturer Accountability

Ourthirdlong-termrecommendationfocusesonclothingmanufacturersandretailers.We

recommendthattheCityregulatethedisposaloflike-newclothinginVancouver.Retailers

andmanufacturerscreatewastefromtheirunsolditems,factoryseconds,andreturnedor

damageditems.Althoughtheseitemsarenotfit-for-sale,theseitemsareacceptableto

donatetoclothingproviders.Partnershipswithclothingprovidersandmanufacturers

wouldreducethefollowingrecurringproblems:

• Highdemandformen’sclothing

• Toolittleclothing

• Unusableclothing

• Non-applicableclothing

• Volunteerandemployeehoursconsumedbysorting

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 28

Areas for Further Investigation

Werecommendthatthefollowingareasarefurtherinvestigated:

1. Howothercitiesareeffectivelyreducingtextilewaste

2. Children’sclothingprovidersandwaste

3. Howlaundryserviceswouldimpactclothingprovidersandclothingwaste

Thesethreetopicsaddressareasthatwerediscussedduringourinterviewsandsurveys

butwerenotincludedinourstudy.

Markham, Ontario

TosupporttheZeroWaste2040StrategicPlan,ourteamrecommendsthattheCity

continuestoconductresearchofthesustainablepracticescurrentlyusedinothercities.

Since2013,theCityofMarkhamhasprioritizedthereductionoftextilewastetothe

landfill.Thishasbeenexecutedusingnewcity-rundonationbinswhichutilizesmart

technology.Thebinsareequippedwithvolumeandtrackingsensors,aswellascameras.

Markhamhasclearlyoutlinedwhatitemsareacceptedfordonation,theconditionof

accepteditems,andwherethesmartbinsarelocated.ArecentstepforMarkhamto

supporttextilediversionwasthedecisiontobantextilewastefromcurbsidecollection

services(Markham,2017).

Children’s Clothing

Ourstudydidnotinvolveclothingproviderorganizationsthatprovidechildren’sclothing

freeofcost.Childrenwearthroughclothingatafasterratethanadultsandaremorelikely

todamageitems.Thisfactorcouldmakeitmoredifficultforparentstodonatetheir

children’sclothingandcouldincreasetheamountofclothingdisposedtothelandfill.

Furtherresearchintotheflowofchildren’sclothingwouldbebeneficialfortheCity.

Laundry Services

Duringtheinterviewandsurveyprocess,ourteamdiscoveredtheimpactthatlaundry

facilitieshasonreducingclothingproviders’textilewaste.Werecognizedthatthe

individualsaccessingclothingprogramslikelydonothaveaccesstolaundryfacilities.To

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 29

strengthentheZeroWaste2040StrategicPlan,werecommendtheimplementationofa

circularlaundromatforindividualsinneed.

Currently,theindividualsusingclothingproviders’servicesaredisposingtheirworn

clothing.ThecircularlaundromatwouldfollowtheprocessshowninFigure6.

Figure 6: Circular Laundromat Process Map

Thegoalofacircularlaundromatistoreducetheamountofclothingbeingdisposedtothe

landfill,whilesupportingVancouver’scommunitysocialresponsibilities.Individualsin

needwillhavetheopportunitytokeepvaluableitemsandreceivecleanclothesinreturn

fortheirwornclothes.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 30

Conclusion

Theinterviewandsurveyprocessindicatedthattherearefourkeyfactorsthatcause

problemswithintheclothingproviders’collectionandsortingprocesses.Thesefactorsare:

• Non-applicableclothing

• Unusableclothing

• Damagedclothing

• Notenoughclothing

Ourshort-termrecommendationswillresultinadecreaseofthesefactorsbyensuringthat

eachconsentingproviderisaccuratelyrepresentedontheWasteWizard.Indicatingwhat

clothingisacceptedbyeachclothingproviderandtheproperconditionofdonatedclothing

willreducethenon-applicable,unusable,anddamagedclothingreceived.Marketingthe

WasteWizardwillbringawarenesstothedonationoptionsavailabletothepublic,

resultinginaninfluxofapplicabledonationsinpropercondition.

Buildingrelationshipsbetweenclothingprovidersandsortergraderswillresultinthe

reductionofclothingdisposedtothelandfill,supportingtheCityofVancouver’sZero

Waste2040StrategicPlan.Clothingproviderscansendunusableclothingforrecyclingand

utilizethescheduledpick-upoptiontoeasevolunteerandemployeehours.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 31

Acknowledgements

Ourteamwouldliketothankthefollowingpeopleforprovidinguswiththeopportunityto

applyourknowledgeandexecutethisproject.

Clients:

• AndreaMcKenzie,CityofVancouverZeroWasteSpecialist

• IleanaCostrut,CityStudioVancouverProjectsCoordinator

BCITinstructors:

• LindaButterfield,ProjectAdvisor

• JasonYoung,ProjectCoordinator

• RichardVurdela

• RichardRanftl

BCITSchoolofBusiness

Allparticipatingclothingproviderorganizations:

• Sarah,StevenandteamatWorkingGear

• SarahandteamatDowntownEastsideWomen’sCentre

• DanandteamatSalvationArmy

• Natasha,CourtneyandteamatDressforSuccess

• AdrienneandteamatUnionGospelMission

• ScottandteamatMen’sHostel

• KristineatFirstUnitedChurch

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 32

Bibliography

Markham,C.o.(2017).CityofMarkham-CollectionServices.Retrievedfrom

http://www.markham.ca/wps/portal/Markham/Residents/RecyclingWaste/Collec

tionServices/sa-textilerecycling/textilerecycling/

Storry,K.,&McKenzie,A.(2018).UnravellingtheProblemofApparelWasteintheGreater

VancouverArea.Vancouver.

TextilesWaste:TheFacts.(2018).RetrievedfromWasteReductionWeekinCanada:

https://wrwcanada.com/en/get-involved/resources/textiles-themed-

resources/textiles-waste-facts

TheCityofVancouver.(2018,May).ZeroWaste2040TheCityofVancouver'sZeroWaste

StrategyPlan.Vancouver,BC,Canada.

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 33

Appendices

AppendixA:TermsofReference

AppendixB:Interview/SurveyRequestEmail

AppendixC:InterviewQuestions

AppendixD:Survey

AppendixE:InformedConsentForm

AppendixF:ThankYouEmail

AppendixG:AlphanumericCoding

AppendixH:ProcessMaps

AppendixH-1:WorkingGearProcessMaps

AppendixH-2:DowntownEastsideWomen’sCentreProcessMaps

AppendixH-3:SalvationArmyProcessMaps

AppendixH-4:DressforSuccessProcessMaps

AppendixH-5:UnionGospelMissionProcessMaps

AppendixH-6:Men’sHostelProcessMaps

AppendixI:QualitativeCodingResults

AppendixJ:High-LevelProcessMap

AppendixK:RelationshipDiagrams

AppendixK-1:RelationshipDiagram–DistributionOutcome

AppendixK-2:RelationshipDiagram–RecyclingOutcome

AppendixK-3:RelationshipDiagram–LandfillOutcome

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 34

Appendix A: Terms of Reference

ThisistheTermsofReference(TOR)forunderstandingclothingprovidersintheCityof

Vancouver.TheTORoutlinestheprojectgoals,scope,andsuccessmeasures.

TermsofReference

Version:6.0Date:November22,2018ProjectName:ClothingProvidersintheCityofVancouverNameandAddressofClientandOrganization:AndreaMcKenzie,ZeroWasteSpecialistCityofVancouver1100-450SWMarineDr.Vancouver,[email protected],ProjectsCoordinatorCityStudioVancouver1800SpyglassPl.Vancouver,[email protected]:[email protected]@[email protected]:[email protected]

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 35

OpportunityStatement:

Thisprojectisdesignedtocompletebackgroundresearchinsupportofthepriorityaction

todevelopanApparelWasteReductionStrategy,asdescribedintheCityofVancouver’s

ZeroWaste2040StrategicPlan,whichisalong-termvisiontoeliminatethedisposalof

solidwastetolandfillsandincineratorsby2040.

ProjectGoal:

Thegoalofthisprojectistounderstandtheservicesofferedbyclothingproviders,defined

asorganizations(suchasshelters,communitycentres,andsomethriftstores)thatcollect

clothingtodistributedirectlytoindividualsinneed,atnocost,intheCityofVancouver.

Thisincludesthecollection,distribution,anddisposalofdonatedclothingitems.

ScopeoftheStudy:

Thescopeofthisstudyincludes:

● ContactingaminimumoffiveclothingprovidersinthecityofVancouver

● Developinginterviewandsurveyquestionsforclothingproviders

● Holdingsemi-structuredinterviewsand/orprovidingsurveyswithclothing

providers

● Analysisofthecurrentprocesswhichbeginswhentheclothingprovideraccepts

donationsandendswhendonationsleavetheirfacility

● Analysisofthecurrentchallengesandopportunitiesfacingclothingproviders

Thescopeofthisstudydoesnotinclude:

● ClothingprovidersoutsidetheCityofVancouver

● Analysisofotherstakeholders’processesoutsideofclothingproviders

● Implementationofrecommendations

Symptoms:

● Apparelwasteisoneofthefastestgrowingwastestreamsintheworld

● InCanada,anestimated500,000tonnesofapparelwastegoestodisposalannually

● InVancouver,approximately6,500tonnesofapparelisdisposedannually

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 36

SuccessMeasures:

Deliverable SuccessMeasure Responsibility Status

InformedConsentFormfilledin

SubmittedtoclientbySeptember19

Team Complete

InterviewRequestandThank-Youemailsdrafted

SubmittedforapprovalbySeptember19

Team Complete

Interviewandsurveyquestionsdrafted

SubmittedforapprovalbySeptember26

Team Complete

Pre-InterviewPrepSkypecallwithIleana

Asscheduled,onOctober3at9:00am

Team,Ileana Complete

Post-initialinterviewconferencecallwithAndrea

Asscheduled,onOctober18at2:30pm

Team,Andrea Complete

Initialinterviewtranscriptforreview

SubmittedonOctober18by10:00am

Team Complete

Completedinterviewandsurveytranscript/data

SubmittedtoAndreabeforeanalysisNovember7,2018

Team Complete

Processmapforeachorganization

Toinclude:- Processofeach

organization- Inflow/outflowof

clothingCompletedbyNovember21,2018.

Team Complete

Formalreport Toinclude:- Resultsofsurveys

andinterviews- Analysisand

recommendationsinresponsetochallengesfoundduringinterviews

- Discussionoflimitationsofresearchandidentificationofoutstandingknowledgegapsandareasforfurtherresearch

SubmittedtoclientsonNovember28,2018.

Team

PostercreatedforHUBBUB!Event

- 28”x4”- Includesphoto(s)- Largeprojecttitle

Team Complete

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 37

- Mediumsubtitle- Detailedpurpose,

outcomes,process- Nameofteam- Nameofcourse,

instructor(s),Citypartner

- CityStudiosummary

- BCITlogoPrintedonNovember29,2018.

AttendanceatHUBBUB!Event

9:00amonNovember30,2018withposter

Team

Oralpresentationoffindings

PresentedtoclientsandadvisorsonDecember5,2018at3:00pm.

Team

Deliverables:

● InterimdeliverablestobeapprovedbyClient:

○ DraftemailstoclothingprovidersbySeptember19

○ InformedConsentFormforparticipantsbySeptember19

○ DraftinterviewandsurveyquestionsbySeptember26

○ Apre-interviewprepmeetingwithIleanaonOctober3

○ Apost-interviewconferencecallafterourfirstinterviewwithAndreaand

IleanaonOctober17

○ Completedinterviewandsurveytranscriptpre-analysis

● AformalreportwillbesubmittedbyNovember29,2018andwillinclude:

○ Theresultsofsurveysandinterviewsconducted

○ Analysisandrecommendationsinresponsetochallengesfoundinsurveys

○ Discussionoflimitationsofresearchandidentificationofoutstanding

knowledgegapsandareasforfurtherresearch

● PostercreatedforHUBBUBEventatCityHallbyNovember29

● AttendanceatHUBBUBEventonNovember30,2018

● AnoralpresentationoffindingswillbegivenonDecember5,2018

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 38

Action:

Weeks1-3:GatherInformation

● Initialclientinterview

● Draftandsendemailstoclothingprovidercontactstorequestinterviewsand/or

surveys

● CompletetheInformedConsentFormforinterviewandsurveyparticipants

● ResearchclothingproviderorganizationsanddevelopacontactlistwithintheCity

ofVancouver

Weeks3-5:InterviewandSurveyQuestionnaire

● Draftinterviewandsurveyquestions

● Approveandfinalizeinterviewandsurveyquestions

● Confirminterviewsand/orprovidesurveystoparticipants

Weeks5-9:InterviewandSurvey

● InformedConsentFormssignedbyparticipants

● Meetwithparticipantsforsemi-structuredinterviews

● Receivecompletedsurveysfromparticipants

Weeks9-12:AnalysisandRecommendation

● Analysisofresultsfrominterviewsand/orsurveys

● Recommendationsbasedonanalysisoffindings

Constraints:

● Projecttimelineislimitedto13weeks

● CityStudioworkspaceisatcapacitywhichlimitstheopportunitytomeetwith

clientsin-person

● Privacypreferencesofeachinterviewand/orsurveyparticipant

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 39

Assumptions:

● Consentingparticipantswilldiscloseinformationaboutcurrentprocessesand

challenges

● Andreawillbeavailablebyemailforclarificationandsupportthroughoutthe

project

● Ileanawillbeavailablebyemailorphoneforclarificationandsupportthroughout

theproject

ProjectRisks:

● Lackofconsentingparticipants

● LocalelectionscouldchangeprioritiesofCityofVancouver

● Clothingprovidersdonothavequantifiabledata

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 40

Appendix B: Interview/Survey Request Email

Thisistheemailtemplatecreatedforcontactingclothingprovidersanddetermining

interestintheproject.

Helloteamat[insertnameof]organization,

MynameisDaveFerriday,aBusinessOperationsManagementstudentatBCIT.IampartofastudentteamthatiscollaboratingwiththeCityofVancouverandCityStudiotoworkonaprojectinspiredbytheCity’sZeroWaste2040strategicplan.ThefocusofourprojectistobetterunderstandhowclothingprovidershelptoreduceapparelwastewhilealsosupportingcommunitysocialgoalsinVancouver.

OurAsk

Myteamwouldliketheopportunitytoconductashortinterviewwithyourorganization.Wewouldliketoscheduleaonehour-longinterviewbetween[insertdates],atalocationandtimethatisconvenientforyou.Youmaychoosetobeidentifiedorremainanonymousforthisinterview.Ifyouareunabletoparticipateinanin-personinterview,youmayalsoparticipateinourstudybyfillingoutasurvey.

ProjectDescription

Clothingprovidersaredefinedasorganizations(suchasshelters,communitycentres,andsomethriftstores)thatcollectclothingtodistributedirectlytoindividualsinneed,atnocost.Wewouldliketogainabetterunderstandingofhowyourorganizationdeliversthisservice,andofanychallengesandopportunitiesyouexperiencerelatedtoclothing.

WhyParticipate

Weaimtofindwaystoaddressanychallengesandopportunitiesyouidentify,whilealsosupportingthegoalsofZeroWaste2040.ResearchfindingswillalsobeusedbytheCityofVancouvertohelpinformplanninganddevelopmentofafutureapparelwastereductionstrategy.

Pleaseletusknowifyouareinterestedinparticipatinginanintervieworsurveyby[insertdate].Weappreciateanyhelpandinsightyoucanprovideus.

Thankyouforyourtime,

[InsertSignature]

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 41

Appendix C: Interview Questions

Thesearethequestionsdevelopedforthesemi-structuredinterviewswithclothing

providers.

OrganizationalQuestions:

1. Whatservicesdoyouoffer?

2. Isprovidingclothingyourprimaryservice?

3. Doyoufeel“clothingprovider”isanappropriatetermfordescribingtheserviceof

distributingclothingatnocost?

4. Ifnot,isthereanothertermyouwoulduseinstead?

5. Whatcommunitiesorclientsdoyoutargetwithyourservices,andespeciallyyour

clothingproviderservices?

6. Doyoupartnerwithotherorganizationswhocollect,process,ordistributeclothing?

a. Ifyes,canyouidentifywhoanddescribehowyouworkwiththem?

7. Howareyourservicesfunded?

8. Doanyfundingdollarscomefromthesaleofsecond-handclothing?

CollectionProcess:

1. Howdoyoucollectclothing?(drop-off,pick-ups,donationbins?).

2. Doyoueverpurchaseclothingnew?

3. Whodoyougetclothingfrom?(Residents,retailers,otherclothingproviders,thrift

stores,etc.)

4. Doyoureceiveitemsfromotherorganizationsthatcollectprocessordistribute

secondhandclothing?

5. Howoftendoyoutypicallyreceiveclothing?

6. Estimatetheamountofclothingyoureceiveeachyear(numberofitemsorby

weight)

7. Whattypesofclothingdoyoucollect?

8. Whydoyouusethesecollectionmethods?Whatdoesordoesn'tworkwellabout

thisapproachtocollection?

9. Whatisyourmaximumcapacityforclothingdonations?

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10. Whatfactorsaffectyourmaxcapacity?(e.g.storagespace,stafforvolunteerhours)

11. Doyoualwayshaveenoughclothingtofulfillclients’demand?

a. Doesitvarywithseason?Typeofclothing?

12. Arethereanyitemsyoutendtogetmoreofthanyouneed?Ifyes,whatarethey?

13. Arethereanyitemsyoudon’tgetenoughof?Ifyes,whatarethey?

14. Whatdoyoudowhenyoudon’thaveenoughofcertainitemtypestomeetdemand?

DistributionProcess:

1. Whatdoclientshavetodotoaccessyourservices?

2. Istherealimitonthenumberofitemsyoudistributeperclient?

a. Ifyes,whatisit?

3. Describetheprocessofclientsselectingwhichitemstheyget.(e.g.dotheygetto

choose,tryon,etc.)

4. Doyoulaunderclothingdonationsbeforedistributing?

5. Howfastdoitemsgetdistributedafterbeingcollectedandprocessed?

6. Whyisthisyourapproachfordistributingclothing?Whatdoesordoesn'tworkwell

aboutthisapproach?

Advertising:

1. Howdoyougetthewordouttoclientsthatyouprovideclothingatnocost?

2. Howdoyougetthewordoutthatyouacceptdonationsofclothing?

3. Whydoyouusetheseadvertisingmethods?Whatdoesordoesn’tworkwellabout

thesewaysofadvertising?

UnusedApparel:

1. Whatdoyoudowithanyunusableorexcessitemsyouendupwith?

2. Ifyoupassontootherorganizations,pleaseidentifywhichonesandwhatyou

typicallypassontothem.

3. Doyoudisposeanythingtolandfill?Ifyes,canyoudescribethetypesofitemsthat

getdisposed?

a. Whatportionofclothingyoureceivedoesthisrepresent?

4. Doyousendorsellanythingtosortergraders?(businessesthatcollectorbuy

clothingandsortforrecycling,resaleoverseasandothermarkets)

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a. Forexample:Trans-Continental,Cann-Amm,Pacific,Delta,Dominion,

Odyssey

5. Whatdoyoudowithdamagedclothing(ripped,stained,etc.)?

6. Whydoyouusethesemethodstomanageitemsyoudon’tneed?Whatdoesor

doesn'tworkwellaboutthisapproach?

AllTopics:

1. Whatwouldhelptoimprovehowyouprovideyourservices?

2. Anyotherinformationorcommentsyou'dliketoshare?

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Appendix D: Survey

ThisistheGoogleFormssurveydesignedforclothingproviders.

Figure 7: Clothing Providers in the City of Vancouver Google Forms

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 46

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 47

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Appendix E: Informed Consent Form

ThisistheInformedConsentFormprovidedtoeachparticipatingclothingprovider,prior

totheintervieworsurvey.

TitleoftheResearchProjectClothingProvidersinVancouverDescriptionoftheResearchThepurposeofthisresearchistobetterunderstandtheroleplayedbyclothingprovidersinVancouver.Clothingprovidersaredefinedasorganizations(suchasshelters,communitycentresandsomethriftstores)thatcollectclothingtodistributedirectlytoindividualsinneedatnocost.TheprojectseekstolearnwhatservicesdifferentclothingprovidersinVancouveroffer,howtheydeliverthoseservices,whytheirservicemodelisdesignedthatway,andwhatchallengesandopportunitiesexistforsupportingthedistributionofclothingdonationswithinVancouvercommunities.ThisprojectisacollaborationbetweenBritishColumbiaInstituteofTechnology(BCIT)andCityofVancouverthroughCityStudio.CityStudioisaninnovationhubwhereCitystaff,students,facultyandcommunityworktogethertodesignexperimentalprojectsthatmakeVancouvermoresustainable,liveableandjoyful.https://www.citystudiovancouver.com/TheresearchanalysisandrecommendationswillrespondtochallengesandopportunitiesidentifiedbyinterviewparticipantswhilealigningwiththeobjectivesidentifiedintheCityofVancouver’sZeroWaste2040strategicplan.TheprimaryobjectiveofZeroWaste2040istoeliminatethedisposalofsolidwastetolandfillandincinerationby2040throughwasteavoidance,reduction,reuseandrecycling.Animportantcomplementaryobjectiveistosupportcommunitysocialgoals.Forexample,bystrengtheningcommunityconnectionsandpursuingzerowasteinitiativesthatsupportsocialjustice.ResearchfindingswillbeusedbytheCityofVancouvertohelpinformplanninganddevelopmentofafutureapparelwastereductionstrategyforVancouver,apriorityactioninZeroWaste2040.https://vancouver.ca/green-vancouver/zero-waste-vancouver.aspxAccesstoResearchInformationThelistofinterview/surveyparticipantsandinterview/surveynoteswillbesharedwiththeprojectsponsor:CityofVancouverSolidWasteStrategicServices.Theinformationcollectedwillinformthefinalreport,whichwillbesharedwiththeprojectsponsorandallresearchparticipantsuponcompletioninDecember2018.ResearchparticipantswillalsobeinvitedtoattendapresentationoftheresearchfindingsattheCityStudioHUBBUB!ProjectShowcase.ConfidentialityYoumaychoosetobeidentifiedinthefinalreportasaresearchparticipantbynameand/orbytheorganizationyourepresent.Theinformationcollectedfromtheseinterviews/surveyswhichwillbesharedwiththeCityofVancouvermaybeaccessibletoothersthroughFreedomofInformationrequests.ParticipationTheinterviewwilltakeapproximately45minuteswhileweexpectthesurveytotakeapproximately20-30minutes.Youarefreetodeclinetoansweranyquestion.Youmaywithdrawyourconsenttoparticipateatanytimeduringtheintervieworsurveyandanyinformationyouhaveprovidedtothatpointwillbedestroyeduponyourinstruction.

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ProjectTeam:LaurenBostwick|(778)898-2530|[email protected]|(604)317-0028|[email protected]|(236)332-4449|[email protected],BusinessOperationsManagement,BritishColumbiaInstituteofTechnologyIfyouhaveanyfurtherquestionsorconcernsaboutthisstudy,pleasecontacttheprojectteam.Supervisor:JasonYoung|604.412.7510|[email protected],SchoolofBusiness,BritishColumbiaInstituteofTechnologyIfyouhaveanyconcernsregardingtheconductoftheprojectteam,pleasefeelfreetocontactthesupervisor.ProjectSponsor:AndreaMcKenzie|604.873.7777|[email protected],CityofVancouverIfyouhaveanyquestionsabouttheZeroWaste2040strategicplanorafutureapparelwastereductionstrategyforVancouver,pleasecontacttheprojectsponsor.Consent:

HaveyoureviewedtheProjectInformationandInformedConsentsheet? YESNO

Doyouagreetoparticipateinaninterviewforthisproject? YESNODoestheprojectteamhavepermissiontotakephotosofyourfacility,whichmaybeusedfortheHUBBUB!ProjectShowcaseand/orfinalreport.

YESNO

Pleaseindicatetheidentifyinginformationyouconsenttobeusedinthefinalreport.Selectoneorboth:

Firstandlastname

Organization:_____________________________________________

______________________________________________________SignatureofParticipant NameofParticipant__________________________Date

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Appendix F: Thank You Email

Thisistheemailtemplatecreatedtofollow-upandthankeachparticipatingorganization

fortheircontribution.

Helloteamat[insertnameof]organization,

OnbehalfofmyteamandCityStudio,thankyouforparticipatinginourresearchprojecton

clothingprovidersinVancouver.

Thetimeandinformationyougenerouslyprovidedhasbeenhelpfulandgaveuswith

usefulinsightssuchas[insertexample].Inourfinalreport,weaimtofindwaysto

addressthechallengesandopportunitiesyouidentified,whilesupportingthegoalsofZero

Waste2040.ResearchfindingswillalsobeusedbytheCityofVancouvertohelpforma

futureapparelwastereductionstrategy.OurreportwillbefinalizedbyDecember5,2018

andwillbesharedwithallresearchparticipants.

Tolearnaboutourfindings,wewouldliketoinviteyoutoaneventatCityHall,called

HUBBUB,wherewewillbepresentingasummaryofourproject.Thiseventisashowcase

forcollaborativeprojectsbetweentheCityofVancouver,CityStudio,andstudentteams

fromlocalcollegesanduniversities.Byattendingthisevent,youwillbeabletoseehow

yourinputhashelpedguideourproject.

Theeventdetailsare:

Date:November30,2018

Place:453W12thAve,Vancouver,BCV5Y1V4(VancouverCityHall)

Time:09:30-12:30

Thankyouagainandwehopetoseeyouthere!

[InsertSignature]

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Appendix G: Alphanumeric Coding

Thesearethealphanumericcodesourteamassignedtothepotentialanswersofeach

interviewandsurveyquestion.

Thefollowingmethodologywasusedtocreatealphanumericcodes:

1. Establishpotentialanswersforeachinterviewandsurveyquestions,usingthe

surveyasabaseline.

2. Determinethemethodofcoding,forwhichwechosealphanumeric.

3. Sequentiallyassignanalphanumericcodetoeachpotentialanswer.

Table4showsthealphanumericcodesforeachquestion.

Table 4: Alphanumeric Coding Format

Question Coded Answers1A: Clothing1B: Housing, shelter1C: Food1D: Medical1E: Legal1F: Other 2A: Yes2B: No3A: Yes3B: No3C: For that area of service4A: Male4B: Female4C: Male & Female4D: Age 0-124E: Age 13-214F: Age 22-544G: Age 55+4H: Other5A: Yes5B: No5C: No, send excess clothes5D: No, refers clients

What services do you offer?

Is providing clothing your primary service?

Do you feel “clothing provider” is an appropriate term for describing the service of distributing

clothing at no cost?

What communities or clients do you target with your services, and especially your clothing

provider services?

Do you partner with other organizations who collect, process, or distribute clothing?

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6A: Government6B: Monetary Donations6C: Sale of Clothing6D: Other7A: Drop-off7B: Pick-up7C: Donation bins7D: Clothing drives7E: Purchased new7F: Other8A: Residents8B: Retailers, corporate8C: Clothing brands8D: Thrift stores8E: Other clothing providers8F: Other9A: Everyday9B: 1-3x/week9C: 4-5x/week9D: 1-3x/month9E: Other10A: Number of Items10B: Weight in lbs.11A: Men's11B: Women's11C: Children's11D: Towels/blankets11E: Other12A: Yes12B: No13A: Storage Space13B: Volunteer hours13C: Other 14A: More Ownership14B: Fewer volunteer hours14C: Community involvement14D: Community needs met15A: Location of facilities15B: Unusable donations

How are your services funded?

How do you collect clothing?

Who do you get clothing from?

How often do you typically receive clothing?

Estimate amount of clothing received

What types of clothing do you collect?

What is your maximum capacity for clothing donations?

What works well about collection methods?

What factors affect your maximum capacity?

What doesn't work well about collection methods?

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16A: Yes16B: No17A: Yes17B: Nov/Dec = high17C: Summer = low17D: No17E: Other18A: Purchase New18B: Turn Away18C: Call-Out to Orgs18D: Call-Out to Public19A: Socks/Underwear19B: Shoes19C: Pants19D: Shirts19E: Outerwear19F: Other20A: Socks/Underwear20B: Shoes20C: Pants20D: Shirts20E: Outerwear20F: Other20G: All21A: Live in DTES21B: Referral21C: Outreach Centre21D: Walk-in21E: Other22A: Yes22B: No22C: 1-10 Items22D: 10-20 Items23A: Yes23B: No23C: Yes, can't try on23D: Yes, can try on

Do you always have enough clothing to fulfill clients’ demand?

Is donation demand seasonal?

What do you do when you don't have enough clothing to meet demand?

Are there any items you tend to get more of than you need?

Are there any items you don’t get enough of?

What do clients have to do to access your services?

Is there a limit on the number of items you distribute per client?

Do clients get to choose their items?

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24A: Yes24B: No24C: Upon Request25A: Yes25B: No26A: Immediately26B: 1-2 Weeks26C: 3-4 Weeks26D: Over 1 Month26E: Other 27A: Send to other providers27B: Thrift Stores27C: Consign27D: Throw away27E: Sorter graders/upcycle27F: Other28A: Throw away28B: Repair28C: Wash28D: Give elsewhere28E: Sorter graders28F: Other29A: Public education29B: Monetary donations29C: Industry accountability29D: Recycling program29E: Other 30A: Volunteers30B: Employees30C: Both31A: Volunteers only31B: Employees only31C: Both32A: Word-of-Mouth32B: Social Media32C: Website32D: Other32E: Do not advertise

Are clients provided assitance when choosing?

How fast do items get distributed after being collected and processed?

Do you launder clothing donations before distribution?

What do you do with any not applicable or excess items you end up with?

What do you do with damaged clothing?

What would help to improve how you provide your services?

Who distributes clothing directly to clients?

Do you have volunteers or employees?

How do you get the word out to clients that you provide clothing at no cost?

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29A: Public education29B: Monetary donations29C: Industry accountability29D: Recycling program29E: Other 30A: Volunteers30B: Employees30C: Both31A: Volunteers only31B: Employees only31C: Both32A: Word-of-Mouth32B: Social Media32C: Website32D: Other32E: Do not advertise33A: Word-of-Mouth33B: Social Media33C: Website33D: Other 34A: Live within city34B: Live outside city 34C: Clean clothing34D: No returns from client34E: Still useable34F: Other 35A: Turn donors away35B: Ask to come back35C: Store off-site36A: Yes36B: No37A: Yes37B: No37C: Occassionally38A: 1-10 people38B: 11-20 people38C: 21-30 people38D: 31-40 people38E: Other

Do you ever sell clothing items?

How many people access your clothing provider services per week?

How do you get the word out to clients that you provide clothing at no cost?

How do you get the word out that you accept donations of clothing?

Are there requirements for donors to follow?

What do you do when you are at maximum capacity for clothing donations?

Do you ever purchase clothing new?

What would help to improve how you provide your services?

Who distributes clothing directly to clients?

Do you have volunteers or employees?

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Appendix H: Process Maps

Theprocessmapscreatedareincludedinthefollowingsixappendices.Processmapswere

createdfortheclothingproviderswhoparticipatedintheinterviewprocessonly.

Eachclothingproviderweinterviewedexplainedtheircurrentcollection,sorting,and

distributionprocesses.Theseprocessesweretranslatedintoprocessmaps.Themapswere

dividedintoeither:

• Thecollection&sortingprocessandthedistributionprocessor

• Thecollectionprocess,sortingprocess,anddistributionprocess

Theuseofseparatecollectionandsortingprocessesoccurredfororganizationsthat

collecteddonationsusingmethodsotherthandrop-offonly.Italsooccurredfor

organizationsthatdonotimmediatelysortdonations.

Thefollowingmethodologywasusedtocreateeachprocessmap:

1. Definethestartingtask,illustratedasanoval.

2. Determinethemacrostepsrequiredtoexecutetheprocess,illustratedasa

rectangle.

3. Determinewhereayesornodecisionismade,illustratedasatriangle.

4. Definetheoutcomeofthedecision.

5. Definetheendresultoftheprocessordecisionoutcome,illustratedasanoval.

Oncetheprocessmapswerecompleteforeachclothingprovider,processstepswere

colourcodedtorevealcommonalitiesbetweenorganizationprocesses.

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Appendix H-1: Working Gear Process Maps

ThesearetheprocessmapscreatedforWorkingGear.Theprocesseshavebeendivided

intothecollectionandsortingprocessandthedistributionprocess.

Figure8showsthecollectionandsortingprocessesatWorkingGear.Figure 8: Working Gear Collection and Sorting Processes

WorkingGearindicatedthreeoutcomesforclothingdonations:

1. Hangitemsfordistributiontoclients

2. DistributetoPowellStreetGetawayCentre

3. Putclothingoutsidetheirentranceforindividualstosortandtake

TheonlyitemsdisposedtothelandfillbyWorkingGearareitemsthataresoiledbeyond

use,whichisarareoccurrence.

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Figure9showsthedistributionprocessatWorkingGear.

Figure 9: Working Gear Distribution Process

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Appendix H-2: Downtown Eastside Women’s Centre Process Maps

ThesearetheprocessmapscreatedforDowntownEastsideWomen’sCentre.The

processeshavebeendividedintothecollectionprocess,sortingprocess,andthe

distributionprocess.

Figure10showsthecollectionprocessatDEWC.Figure 10: DEWC Collection Process

Therearetwooutcomesforclothingdonationsfollowingthecollectionprocess:

1. Donationbagsarestored

2. Donationbagsaredisposedtothelandfill

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Figure11showsthesortingprocessatDEWC.

Figure 11: DEWC Sorting Process

DEWCindicatedtherearethreeoutcomesfordonatedclothing:

1. Hangclothinginclothingroomtodistributetoclients

2. DistributeitemstoCrabtreeCorner

3. Throwitemsaway

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Figure12showsthedistributionprocessforDEWC.Figure 12: DEWC Distribution Process

Duringthisprocess,clothingdonationscanbedisposedoftothelandfillorkeptfor

distribution.

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Appendix H-3: Salvation Army Process Maps

ThesearetheprocessmapscreatedforSalvationArmy.Theprocesseshavebeendivided

intothecollectionandsortingprocessandthedistributionprocess.

Figure13showsthecollectionandsortingprocessforSalvationArmy.Thethreecollection

methodsare:

1. Drop-offataSalvationArmylocation

2. Drop-offattheSalvationArmyDistributionCentre

3. Pick-updonationsfromSalvationArmydonationbinsFigure 13: Salvation Army Collection and Sorting Process

SalvationArmyindicatedtwooutcomesforclothingdonations:

1. Hangitemsfordistributioninthriftstores

2. DistributeitemstoSalvationArmyThriftStores–includesnationallocations

3. Selltosortergraders

TheonlyitemsdisposedtothelandfillbySalvationArmyareitemsthataresoiledbeyond

use.

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Figure14showsthedistributionprocessforSalvationArmy.Figure 14: Salvation Army Distribution Process

TheSalvationArmydistributionprocessisunique,astheorganizationoperatesasa

clothingproviderandathriftstore.

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Appendix H-4: Dress for Success Process Maps

ThesearetheprocessmapscreatedforDressforSuccess.Theprocesseshavebeendivided

intothecollectionandsortingprocessandthedistributionprocess.

Figure15showsthecollectionandsortingprocessforDressforSuccess.Figure 15: Dress for Success Collection and Sorting Process

DressforSuccesshasindicatedfouroutcomesfordonatedclothing:

1. Distributetoclients–hanginboutique

2. SendtoTurnaboutLuxuryResaleforconsignment

3. SellthroughDressforSuccess’“ShopforaCause”program

4. Distributetootherorganizations–itemsarepickedupbyBigBrotherorWISH

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Figure16showsthedistributionprocessforDressforSuccess.

Figure 16: Dress for Success Distribution Process

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Appendix H-5: Union Gospel Mission Process Maps

ThesearetheprocessmapscreatedforUnionGospelMission.Theprocesseshavebeen

dividedintothecollectionandsortingprocessandthedistributionprocess.

Figure17showsthecollectionandsortingprocessforUnionGospelMission.Figure 17: Union Gospel Mission Collection and Sorting Process

UGMhasindicatedfouroutcomesfordonatedclothing:

1. DistributetotheUGMclothingroom

2. Distributetoothernon-profitorganizations

3. DistributetotheUGMthriftstore

4. Selltosortergraders

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Figure18showsthedistributionprocessforUnionGospelMission.

Figure 18: Union Gospel Mission Distribution Process

ThedistributionprocessisdifferentformenandwomenaccessingUnionGospelMission’s

clothingservices.Womenmustbookanappointmentthroughanoutreachworkerpriorto

usingtheclothingroom.

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Appendix H-6: Men’s Hostel Process Maps

ThesearetheprocessmapscreatedforMen’sHostel.Theprocesseshavebeendividedinto

thecollectionandsortingprocessandthedistributionprocess.

Figure19showsthecollectionandsortingprocessforMen’sHostel.Figure 19: Men's Hostel Collection and Sorting Process

Men’sHostelhasindicatedfouroutcomesfordonatedclothing:

1. Distributetoclients–placeinclothingroom

2. DistributetoShewayorDEWC

3. Sendtosortergraders

4. Throwaway

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Figure20showsthedistributionprocessforMen’sHostel.

Figure 20: Men's Hostel Distribution Process

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Appendix I: Qualitative Coding Results

Thesearetheresultsofthequalitativecodingprocess.Ourteamreviewedeachinterview

transcriptandthesurveyresponseandcodedanswersappropriately.

Thefollowingmethodologywasusedtocompletethequalitativecodingprocess:

1. Revieweachinterviewtranscriptandthesurveyresponse.

2. Identifytheapplicablecodeforeachanswer.

3. Makenoteofwhichorganizationappliedtoidentifiedcodeinthe“Provider”column

ofTable5.

Thekeyfindingsfromourqualitativecodinginclude:

• Whatdoesn’tworkwellaboutcurrentcollectionmethods

o Allsevenorganizationsindicatedthatwellintentionedpeopledrop-off

unusableornon-applicableitems

• Amountofdonationsreceivedvariesthroughouttheyear

o Highperiods–Christmas,springcleaning

o Lowperiods–summermonths

• Howclothingprovidersovercomenon-applicable,damagedorunusableitems

o Distributetoindividualsorotherorganizations

o Repair,launder

o Recyclewithsortergraders

o Disposetolandfill

• Whatcouldhelpclothingprovidersimprovetheirservices

o Education

o Manufactureraccountability

o Recyclingprograms

Table5showstheresultsofthecodingprocess.

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Table 5: Coding Results

Question Coded Answers Providers1A: Clothing DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM, SA, MH, FU1B: Housing, shelter DEWC, UGM, MH, FU1C: Food DEWC, UGM, SA, FU1D: Medical1E: Legal FU1F: Other DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM, MH, FU

2A: Yes WG2B: No DEWC, DFS, UGM, MH, FU, SA

3A: Yes WG, UGM, SA3B: No FU3C: For that area of service DEWC, DFS, MH

4A: Male MH4B: Female DEWC, DFS4C: Male & Female WG, UGM, SA, FU4D: Age 0-12 -4E: Age 13-21 DEWC, WG, DFS4F: Age 22-54 DEWC, WG, DFS4G: Age 55+ DEWC, WG, DFS4H: Other DEWC, DFS, FU

5A: Yes DFS5B: No UGM, SA, FU5C: No, send excess clothes WG, MH5D: No, refers clients DEWC, WG

6A: Government DEWC, MH, FU6B: Monetary Donations DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM, MH, FU6C: Sale of Clothing DFS, UGM, SA, FU6D: Other DFS, UGM, MH, FU

7A: Drop-off DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM, SA, MH, FU7B: Pick-up UGM, SA7C: Donation bins SA7D: Clothing drives WG, DFS, MH7E: Purchased new DFS, UGM, MH

7F: Other DFS

8A: Residents DEWC, WG, DFS, SA, MH

8B: Retailers, corporate WG, DFS, UGM, SA

8C: Clothing brands WG, DFS, UGM, MH

8D: Thrift stores FU

8E: Other clothing providers SA

8F: Other

9A: Everyday UGM, SA

9B: 1-3x/week WG, DFS, FU

9C: 4-5x/week DEWC

9D: 1-3x/month

9E: Other MH

10A: Number of Items

10B: Weight in lbs. DEWC, WG, DFS, SA, FU

How are your services funded?

How do you collect clothing?

Who do you get clothing from?

How often do you typically receive clothing?

Estimate amount of clothing received

What services do you offer?

Is providing clothing your primary service?

Do you feel “clothing provider” is an appropriate term for describing the service of distributing

clothing at no cost?

What communities or clients do you target with your services, and especially your clothing

provider services?

Do you partner with other organizations who collect, process, or distribute clothing?

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TextileRecycling:TheClothingProviderPerspective 73

11A: Men's WG, UGM. SA, MH, FU

11B: Women's DEWC, DFS, UGM, SA, FU

11C: Children's SA11D: Towels/blankets DEWC, SA, MH11E: Other WG, DFS, UGM, SA, MH

12A: Yes DEWC, DFS, MH12B: No WG, UGM, SA

13A: Storage Space DEWC, DFS, MH, FU13B: Volunteer hours DEWC, DFS, FU13C: Other FU

14A: More Ownership WG, DFS, MH14B: Fewer volunteer hours DFS14C: Community involvement UGM, MH14D: Community needs met UGM

15A: Location of facilities DFS15B: Unusable donations WG, DEWC, UGM, DFS, SA, MH, FU

16A: Yes WG, SA16B: No DEWC, DFS, UGM, MH, FU

17A: Yes DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM, SA, MH17B: Nov/Dec = high DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM, SA, MH17C: Summer = low WG, DFS, UGM, SA17D: No17E: Other DEWC, DFS, MH

18A: Purchase New WG, DFS, MH,18B: Turn Away18C: Call-Out to Orgs FU - Previously

18D: Call-Out to Public MH, FU - Currently, UGM

19A: Socks/Underwear19B: Shoes19C: Pants19D: Shirts19E: Outerwear19F: Other WG, DFS, MH, FU

20A: Socks/Underwear WG, UGM, FU20B: Shoes20C: Pants SA20D: Shirts SA, MH20E: Outerwear FU20F: Other DFS20G: All WG, UGM

21A: Live in DTES DEWC21B: Referral WG, DFS21C: Outreach Centre UGM, SA

21D: Walk-in MH21E: Other DFS, FU

22A: Yes DEWC, WG, DFS, SA22B: No UGM, MH, FU22C: 1-10 Items DEWC22D: 10-20 Items

What do clients have to do to access your services?

Is there a limit on the number of items you distribute per client?

Do you always have enough clothing to fulfill clients’ demand?

Is donation demand seasonal?

What do you do when you don't have enough clothing to meet demand?

Are there any items you tend to get more of than you need?

Are there any items you don’t get enough of?

What types of clothing do you collect?

What is your maximum capacity for clothing donations?

What works well about collection methods?

What factors affect your maximum capacity?

What doesn't work well about collection methods?

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23A: Yes DEWC, SA, MH23B: No FU23C: Yes, can't try on DEWC23D: Yes, can try on WG, DFS, UGM, SA, MH24A: Yes DFS, MH24B: No DEWC24C: Upon Request WG25A: Yes UGM, MH, FU25B: No DEWC, WG, DFS, SA26A: Immediately DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM26B: 1-2 Weeks DEWC, WG, DFS26C: 3-4 Weeks DFS26D: Over 1 Month WG, DFS26E: Other MH, FU27A: Send to other providers DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM, MH27B: Thrift Stores UGM, SA27C: Consign WG, DGS27D: Throw away DEWC, FU27E: Sorter graders/upcycle WG, DFS, UGM, SA27F: Other WG, MH28A: Throw away DEWC, MH, FU28B: Repair DFS, UGM, MH28C: Wash UGM, MH, FU28D: Give elsewhere WG, DFS, SA28E: Sorter graders FU, SA, UGM, MH28F: Other FU29A: Public education WG, DFS, UGM, MH, DEWC, SA29B: Monetary donations DFS29C: Industry accountability DEWC, UGM, MH29D: Recycling program DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM, MH29E: Other DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM, SA30A: Volunteers DEWC, WG, DFS30B: Employees SA, MH30C: Both31A: Volunteers only WG31B: Employees only SA31C: Both DEWC, DFS, MH 32A: Word-of-Mouth DEWC, WG, MH32B: Social Media32C: Website32D: Other DFS32E: Do not advertise UGM, SA, MH, FU33A: Word-of-Mouth UGM, MH33B: Social Media WG, DFS33C: Website DEWC, WG, DFS, UGM, SA33D: Other UGM, MH, FU34A: Live within city34B: Live outside city DEWC34C: Clean clothing DEWC, WG, DFS34D: No returns from client DEWC34E: Still useable DEWC, MH, WG, DFS, UGM, SA34F: Other WG, DFS, SA

How do you get the word out to clients that you provide clothing at no cost?

How do you get the word out that you accept donations of clothing?

Are there requirements for donors to follow?

What do you do with any not applicable or excess items you end up with?

What do you do with damaged clothing?

What would help to improve how you provide your services?

Who distributes clothing directly to clients?

Do you have volunteers or employees?

Do clients get to choose their items?

Are clients provided assitance when choosing?

How fast do items get distributed after being collected and processed?

Do you launder clothing donations before distribution?

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Figure21showsthenumberofoccurrencesofeachissuefoundwithinthecollection

process,establishedusingthequalitativecodingprocess.

Figure 21: Graph of Issues Found Within the Collection Process

35A: Turn donors away DEWC35B: Ask to come back DFS35C: Store off-site SA36A: Yes WG, DFS, MH36B: No DEWC, SA37A: Yes DFS, UGM, SA37B: No DEWC, MH37C: Occassionally WG38A: 1-10 people38B: 11-20 people38C: 21-30 people WG38D: 31-40 people DEWC38E: Other DFS, SA, MH39A: Yes WG, DEWC, UGM, DFS, MH, FU39B: No SA40A: Yes WG, DEWC, UGM, SA, MH, FU40B: No DFS41A: Yes WG, DEWC, UGM, DFS, SA, MH, FU41B: No

Do or have you received clothing that is not applicable to your target demographic?

Do or have you received clothing that is beyond use?

Do or have you received clothing that is damaged beyond repair?

Do you ever sell clothing items?

How many people access your clothing provider services per week?

What do you do when you are at maximum capacity for clothing donations?

Do you ever purchase clothing new?

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Too MuchClothing

Too LittleClothing

Storage Capacity ImproperAdvertising

Ease ofDonation

Clot

hing

Pro

vide

rs E

xper

ienc

ing

Issu

es

Issues

Issues Found Within the Collection Process

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Figure22showstheoccurrencesofeachissuefoundwithinthesortingprocess,

establishedduringthequalitativecodingprocess.

Figure 22: Graph of Issues Found Within the Sorting Process

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Torn, Ripped, orStained Items

Non-applicable forDemographic

Unusable Condition Personnel Capacity

Clot

hing

Pro

vide

rs E

xper

ienc

ing

Issu

es

Issues

Issues Found Within the Sorting Process

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Appendix J: High-Level Process Map

Thisisthehigh-levelprocessmapthatillustratesthecommonmacrofunctionswithineach

clothingprovider’sprocess.

Thehigh-levelprocessmapshowsthecommonfunctionswithineachorganization.Once

theindividualprocessmapswerecreatedforeachprovider,itwasclearthateach

organizationmustcompletethefollowingsteps:

• Collectclothingdonations

• Sortclothingdonations

• Distribute,recycle,orthrowawayclothingdonations

Figure23showsthehigh-levelprocessmapforeachclothingprovider.

Figure 23: High-Level Process Map

Thishigh-levelprocessmapindicatesthatclothingmusteitherbedistributed,recycled,or

thrownaway.Eachofthesethreeoutcomesisaresultofissuesfoundinthecollectionor

sortingprocess,whichweredeterminedduringthecodingprocess.SeeAppendixLfor

relationshipdiagrams.

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Appendix K: Relationship Diagrams

Thesearetherelationshipdiagramsthatindicatetherelationshipsbetweentheissues

foundinthecollectionprocess,theissuesfoundinthesortingprocess,andthethree

outcomes:distribution,recycling,andthedisposaltolandfills.

Thecodingprocessindicatedthattherearefiveissueswithinthecollectionprocessand

fourwithinthesortingprocess.Eachissueisdefinedwithin“Phase2:DataAnalysis”inthe

AnalysisofFindingssectionofthereport.

Thefollowingmethodologywasusedtocreatetherelationshipdiagrams:

1. Determinewhichissueswithinthecollectionprocessdirectlyimpactedissues

withinthesortingprocess

2. Determinehowtheissuewithinthesortingprocessimpactedtheoutcomeofthe

clothingdonation

Usingthismethod,weestablishedfiverelationshipswithinthedistributionoutcomeand

tworelationshipseachbetweentherecyclingandlandfilloutcomes.

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Appendix K-1: Relationship Diagram – Distribution Outcome

Thisistherelationshipdiagramthatindicatestherelationshipsbetweentheissuesfound

inthecollectionprocess,theissuesfoundinthesortingprocess,andthedistribution

outcome.

ThefiverelationshipswefoundareshowninFigure24.

Figure 24: Distribution Relationship Diagram

Therelationshipsaredefinedas:

1. Toomanynon-applicableitemsarereceivedinthecollectionprocessandtheseitemsarefoundduringthesortingprocess.Thisrelationshipresultsindistributiontootherclothingprovidersthatcangivethenon-applicableitemstotheirclients.

2. Toolittleclothingdonationsmaybereceivedduringcertainperiodsoftheyearandoftenincludenon-applicableclothingitems.Thenon-applicableitemsaredistributedtootherclothingproviders.

3. Improperadvertisingresultsinclothingprovidersreceivinganexcessamountofnon-applicableitems.Thenon-applicableitemsaredistributedtootherclothingproviders.

4. Improperadvertisingresultsinexcessuseofvolunteerandemployeehours,sortingdonationsinimproperconditionornon-applicableitems.Thisresultsinthedistributionofapplicableandgoodconditionclothingtoclientsandnon-applicableitemstootherproviders.

5. Providerswhoarelocatedinareasthatarenoteasilyaccessibleareusingexcessvolunteerandemployeehourshelpingdonorsbringtheirdonationstotheirfacilities.

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Appendix K-2: Relationship Diagram – Recycling Outcome

Thisistherelationshipdiagramthatindicatestherelationshipsbetweentheissuesfound

inthecollectionprocess,theissuesfoundinthesortingprocess,andtherecyclingoutcome.

ThetworelationshipswefoundareshowninFigure25.

Figure 25: Recycling Relationship Diagram

Therelationshipsaredefinedas:

1. Toomanytorn,ripped,orstaineditemsarebeingreceivedduringcollectionandare

discoveredduringthesortingprocess.Thisresultsintheitemsbeingconsidered

unwearableandaresoldorsenttosortergradersforrecycling.

2. Improperadvertisingresultsinreceivingexcessitemsthataretorn,ripped,or

stained.Theitemsareconsideredunwearableandarerecycledwithsortergraders.

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Appendix K-3: Relationship Diagram – Landfill Outcome

Thisistherelationshipdiagramthatindicatestherelationshipsbetweentheissuesfound

inthecollectionprocess,theissuesfoundinthesortingprocess,andthelandfilloutcome.

ThetworelationshipsfoundareshowninFigure26.

Figure 26: Landfill Relationship Diagram

Therelationshipsaredefinedas:

1. Toomanyitemsinunusableconditionarereceivedanddiscoveredduringthe

sortingprocess.Clothingprovidershavenochoicebuttodisposeofunusable

clothingtothelandfill.

2. Improperadvertisingresultsinanexcessofunusableclothingitemsreceivedand

discoveredduringsorting.Theoutcomeisthelandfill.