Textile Fibre Yarn Count

7/27/2019 Textile Fibre Yarn Count

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Part 1:

Textile Materials


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Outline Natural fibers for textile Cotton fibre, wool, silk and flax

Man-made fibers for textile Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic and Spandex

Yarn Count Calculation (tax and

denier)


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Textile fibres

(Raw Material) A fiber is the smallest part of a fabric. Itis an individual, fine, hair-like substance.

Fibers have a comparatively high ratio oflength to width, thus ensuring theflexibility required for manufacturing andend use (for weaving and knitting).

Fibers can be grouped into Nature andMan-made Fibers


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Nature Fibers Cotton (Vegetable fiber) Wool (Animal fiber)

Silk (Animal fiber) Flax (Vegetable fiber)


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Man-made fiber Nylon (Polyamide) Polyester

Acrylic Spandex


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Cotton

Cotton is a plant fiber, composed mainly ofcellulose.

Cotton is classified by its fiber length, color and

cleanliness. The fiber length is the most important since thelonger the staple length, the better the fiberproperties.

Cotton fibre length lies between and 2 inches,most common used is 1 to 1 inches


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Cotton

Properties The fiber has good strength and abrasionresistance. It is hydrophilic, absorbmoisture quickly and dried quickly.

Quick drying gives a cooling effect whichmakes cotton a good fiber for hotweather.

The fiber is completely washable and dry-cleanable. There are no static or pillingproblems.


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Cotton

Properties and end uses Cotton, however, has little luster and poorelasticity and resiliency.

It is attacked by mildew and silverfish. It is

weakened by resin chemicals used in finishing. The end uses of cotton include a wide range ofproducts in apparel, furnishings and industrialareas.

Examples include blouses, jackets, towels,

carpets, curtains, bagging


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Wool Wool is the fiber that forms the covering ofsheep.

Wool shorn from live sheep is called fleece wool.

Lambs wool is wool taken from sheep of less thanone year old and is very soft. Wool is mainly composed of protein (likes human

hair) because it is animal fiber. It is a mediumweight fiber of natural cream with fiber length

between 1 and 18 inches..


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Wool

Quality Wool quality depends upon the breed ofsheep, climate and health of sheep.

The thinner the fiber diameter, the better

the properties of wool. Merino wool isconsidered the best grade of wool. It has the most crimp, best drape, most

strength, best resiliency, best elasticity,

softest hand, and the most scales on itssurface..


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Wool Properties The fiber has good resiliency when dry but poor when

wet. Wool has good drape and elasticity and is hydrophilic

(13% moisture regain) and has very little problem withstatic.

Wool makes warm fabrics for two reasons. First, itabsorbs moisture slowly and dries slowly, thus havingno cooling effect and resulting in wools feeling warmwhen worn.

Second, wool fabrics have excellent insulationproperty because the fibers have a natural crimp

which prevents them from packing together so formsdead air spaces (trapped air). The trapped air is the insulating barrier.


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Wool

Properties and uses Wool is a weak fibre and loses about 25%strength when wet.

It has poor luster and wool garments usually mustbe dry-cleaned because the fabric will felt and

shrink greatly if washed at elevatedtemperatures. Felting occurs in the presence of heat, moisture

and washing. Wool is vulnerable to moths but can be

mothproofed. Pilling will occur with this fiber. The principal end uses of wool include dresses,

suits, sweaters, carpets.


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Man-made fibers


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Nylon (Polyamide) Nylon is a man-made fiber in which thefiber-forming substance is a long chainpolyamide in which less than 85% of theamide linkage are attached directly to twoaromatic rings.

The fiber has a rod-like shape with a

smooth surface


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Nylon

Properties Nylon is a lightweight fiber with excellentstrength and abrasion resistance. It is about 10%weaker when wet.

It is very good elasticity, good resiliency and gooddraped and can be washed or dry-cleaned. Nylon, however, is a hydrophobic fiber and

absorbs 4 percent moisture regain. Nylon has static and pilling problems and has poor

resistance to prolonged and continuous exposureto sunlight (unless modified to improve them).


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Nylon


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Nylon

End Uses The end uses include a wide range ofproducts in the apparel, interior

furnishings and industrial areas Examples: Dress, swimwear, exercise

wear, hosiery, shirts, jackets,

carpets, tents, fish nets, sleepingbags.


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Polyester Polyester is a man-made fibre inwhich the fibre-forming substance is

composed of at least 85% by weightof ester aromatic carboxylic acid.

The fiber has a rod-like shape with a

smooth surface.


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Polyester


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Polyester

Properties Polyester is a medium weight fiber with very goodstrength and abrasion resistance.

It can be washed and dry-cleaned. The fiber hasexcellent resiliency and is the best wash-and-

wear fiber. Polyester, however, is almost completely

hydrophobic (0.4% moisture regain). It is difficult to get water and detergent into

fiber to remove stains.

Static and pilling are major problems.


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Acrylic

(man-made wool) The first acrylic was developed byDuPont (USA in 1950). It uses in

sweaters and blankets and hasadvantages over wool include beingstronger, cheaper and washable.

A disadvantage is that it ishydrophobic.


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Acrylic

Properties Acrylic is a lightweight fibre with gooddrape and wool-like hand.

It provides fabrics that are warm andlight. It has good resiliency and elasticityand has excellent resistance to sunlightand weathering.

It may be washed or dry-cleaned.


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Acrylic


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Acrylic

Properties and Uses Acrylic, however, has only fair strengthand becoming 20% weaker when wet.

It is hydrophobic (1 % moisture regain)with static and pilling problem.

The end uses are sweaters, dresses,blankets, carpeting, childrens garment.


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Yarn count calculation What is yarn count? How to determine yarn thickness?

Why they are important?


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Yarn Count direct system

Definition Yarn tex is to measure the yarnfineness and is defined as the ratio

of weight (g) to its length Tex = weight (g)/ length (m) X 1000


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Indirect system Yarn English count (cotton count) isto measure the yarn fineness and is

defined as no. of hanks of 840 yardsweight in 1 pound.

Cotton count= X * 840 yards/1 pound.

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Conversion of Tex to

other systems Tex =590.5 / Cotton Count Tex = Denier /9

Tex =1000/Matric Count (Nm)


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Yarn Count

Calculation Example: No of yarn sample taken=12 Length of each yarn sample=6 cm Total yarn length=(12x6)100 m =0.72m

Weight of these samples =0.060gm Weight of 1 km in length=(1000 x 0.06)0.72 =83.3gm Therefore, yarn count =83.3 tex Conversion to other systems:

1. Cotton Count =590.5/83=7s2. Denier =83.3 X 9=749 denier3. Metric Count (Nm)=1000/83.3 =12 Nm


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Discussion What are the advantages of man-made fiber?

Why 100% man-made fiber is notsuitable for apparel product?

Documents

Textile Fibre Yarn Count