Textile & Denim Finishes_02.12.11

7/31/2019 Textile & Denim Finishes_02.12.11

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DENIM WASHES AND

FABRIC FINISHES

BY:JAYATI CHADHHAJHARNA KANNAN

KAJAL SHAKYA

KALITA LAMBAKINJAL CHAWLA

MOHAMMAD MUMTAZ


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TEXTILE FINISHING


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WHAT ARE FINISHES

Any operation that improves the appearance and/orusefulness of fabric after it leaves the loom or knittingmachine.

Finishing is the final series of operations that producesfinished textile fabric from grey goods.


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AestheticFinishes

CLASSIFICATION

Textile Finishes are classified in several ways:

FunctionalFinishes


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AESTHETIC FINISHES

Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and /or hand ordrape of the fabrics.

SOME TYPES OF FINISHES Fulling Mercerization Napping And Sueding Plisse Shearing Softening Stiffening


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FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

Functional Finishes improve the performance propertieslike durability , strength etc. of the fabric ;

SOME TYPE OF FINISHES Antimicrobial/Antiseptic Antistatic Crease resistant Durable Press Flame Resistant Mothproof Shrinkage Control Soil Release Water Proof/Repellant


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Temporary Permanent

SemiPermanent

THERE ARE 3 TYPES OF FINISHING


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TEMPORARY FINISHES

A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first washis known as temporary finish and these finishes disappearsduring subsequent washing and usage.

e.g Calendering

Embossing

Starching

Softening


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PERMANENT FINISHES

If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear andremains unaffected through all the conditions of wear andwashing treatments, then the finish is said to be permanentfinish.

e.g.

Resin Finish Water Proof Flame Proof


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SEMI PERMANENT FINISHES

A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanentfinish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and notafterwards.

e.g. Schreiner Calendering

Buckram Finish


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ChemicalFinishes

MechanicalFinishes

FINISHES CAN BE FURTHER CLASSIFIED INTO.


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CHEMICAL FINISHES

Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by paddingfollowed by curing and drying. These are also called as wetFinishes.

Stiff and transparent Flame Retardant Soil Release Water Proof

Crease Resistance Softening


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MECHANICAL FINISHES

Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physicaltreatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabricappearance. This is also known as dry finish.

Calendering Raising Sanforising Milling


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CALENDERING

Calendering may be defined as the modification of thesurface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure.

The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heatedrotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressureapplied are variable.

The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved toprovide the appropriate finish to fabric.

The rollers may be made of various material from hardenedsteel to elastic thermoplastic.


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OBJECTIVES OF CALENDERING

To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silkytouch to the fabric

To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness To reduce the air permeability by closing the threads To increase the lustre To reduce the yarn slippage

To increase the opacity of the fabric Surface patterning by embossing


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TYPES OF CALENDERING

Swissing or normal gloss or simple calendering

Chintz or glazing or friction Calendering

Cire Calendering Embossed Calendering

Moir Calendering

Schrenier Calendering


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CALENDERINGMACHINES


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SAMPLES


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FINISH ENHANCING PROCESSES

NAPPING

SHEARING, BRUSHING, SINGEING, BEETLING, DECATING, TENTERING, EMBOSSING,

CALENDERING ORPRESSING,

MOIRING,

CREPING,

GLAZING,

POLISHING, AND

OPTICAL BRIGHTENING.

TREATMENTS ENHANCING APPEARANCE INCLUDE PROCESSES

SUCH AS


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NAPPING

Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens,cottons, spun silks, and spun rayons, including bothwoven and knitted types, to raise a velvety, soft surface.

The process involves passing the fabric over revolvingcylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short, loosefibres, usually from the weft yarns, to the surface,

forming a nap. The process, which increases warmth, isfrequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also toblankets.


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SHEARING

Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and isused for the same purpose on pile fabrics.

Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawnmowers, and the amount of shearing depends upon thedesired height of the nap or pile, with such fabrics asgabardine receiving very close shearing.

Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and otherpatterns by varying surface height


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BRUSHING

This process, applied to a wide variety of fabrics, isusually accomplished by bristle-covered rollers.

The process is used to remove loose threads and shortfibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also usedto raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics.

Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing,removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap.


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SINGEING

Also called gassing, singeing is a process applied toboth yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface byburning off projecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz.

This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over agas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficientto burn away the protruding material withoutscorching or burning the yarn or fabric.

Singeing is usually followed by passing the treatedmaterial over a wet surface to assure that anysmoldering is halted.


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Singeingmachines


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BEETLING

Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cottonfabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard, flatsurface with high lustre and also to make texture lessporous.

In this process, the fabric, dampened and wound aroundan iron cylinder, is passed through a machine in which itis pounded with heavy wooden mallets.


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DECATING

Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds,man-made and blended fibre fabrics, and various types ofknits.

It involves the application of heat and pressure to set ordevelop lustre and softer hand and to even the set andgrain of certain fabrics. When applied to double knits itimparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage.

In wet decating, which gives a subtle lustre, or bloom,fabric under tension is steamed by passing it overperforated cylinders


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TENTERING

These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of wovenfabrics at right angles to each other, and to stretch and set the fabricto its final dimensions.

Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame,consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages ofthe fabric, and travelling on tracks.

As the fabric passes through the heated chamber, creases and

wrinkles are removed, the weave is straightened, and the fabric isdried to its final size.

When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing;


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Tentering / stenteringmachines


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CREPING

A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing. In one method,which is not permanent, the cloth is passed, in the presence ofsteam, between hot rollers filled with indentations producingwaved and puckered areas.

In the more permanent caustic soda method, a caustic sodapaste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form; or a resistpaste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and theentire fabric then immersed in caustic soda.

The treated areas shrink, and the untreated areas pucker. If thepattern is applied in the form of stripes, the effect is calledpliss; an allover design produces blister crepe.


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CREPE EFFECT


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RAISING

1. NappingUsing wire-covered rolls to "dig out" individual fiber endsto the surface

2. SuedingUsing abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper, emery cloth, etc.)to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent

shade change.Special type of raised surface fabric is corduroySueding, sanding- creates softer hand of fabric.


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SUEDE


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SHEARING

Use of rotary blade to trim raised surfaces to a uniformheight.

Special types of blades and conveyer belts can producepattern effects on the surface.

This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat andalso reduces the pilling tendency.

For pile fabrics, napped fabrics.


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MERCERISATION

Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that givesfabric a lustrous appearance. The process is applied to materials likecotton or hemp.

The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood,Lancashire, England, who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide.

Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre. Thestructure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose.Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre.This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance, andgives the fiber a softer feel.


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The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-abilityand handle.

The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with aconcentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen,the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased,and the handle is modified.

A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali, in which fibres areswollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product.


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Parchmentizing

Treatment of cottonfabrics with sulfuric acid.

The fabric is transparent,sheer, stiff.

Parchmentizing results ina permanent stiffness


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FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

All finishes that change a fabric's properties are applied chemically.

Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualitiesdesired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change anundesirable property to a more desirable one.

Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric. The labelmay indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric.

Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabricinclude:


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Crease Resistant Finishesare applied to cellulose fibres(cotton, linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily.Permanent Pressfabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and alsohelp to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing andcleaning.

Stabilization FinishesSanforizedindicates that a fabric has been treated so that it willshrink or stretch not more than 1 or 2%. Preshrunk fabrics have been

preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably


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Pilling


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ANTI-PILLING FINISHES:

Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated withspun yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics.

Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of

fabric due to their smooth surface and circular crosssection and due to their higher tensile strength andabrasion resistance, the pills formed take a long time tobe abraded by wear.

With knit fabric, two more problems occur, viz., "picking"where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves outof yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches apointed or rough object.


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PERMANENT ANTI-STATIC EFFECTS:

Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid staticcharge build up & give a natural feel.

Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inertand require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing

on polyester goods.

In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have agood soil release action which is as permanent as theanti-static effect.

Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type beingcurable at moderate temperatures


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NON-SLIP FINISHES:

Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics areparticularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothnesswhen the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is noloner attractive.

To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a

rougher surface. Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite

useful and they are used with advantage in combination withlatex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanenteffect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to

pilling or snagging. These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and

smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting waterrepellency


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FIRE RESISTANT FINISHES:

With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame,the molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fireresistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses.

Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant bytreatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble2,3-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence.

A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treatingwith a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominatedphosphoric acid esters.


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ANTI-MICROBIAL FINISHES:

With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and othermaterials in public places, anti-microbial finishes have assumedimportance.

Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for

cotton fabrics & Garments.Useful for eliminating bacterial growthdue to sweat.

Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols,quaternary ammonium compounds, organo-silver and tin

compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions.

Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres, such aswool, from being attacked by moths, carpet beetles and other insects.


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Waterproof Finishes -allows no water to penetrate,but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisturenext to the body. Recently, fabrics have been developedthat are waterproof, yet are also breathable

Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishesresist wetting. If the fabric becomes very wet, water willeventually pass through. Applied to fabrics found inraincoats, all-weather coats, hats, capes, umbrellas and

shower curtains

FEW OTHER FUNCTIONAL FINISHES


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Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil andstains from being attracted to fabrics.

Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-bourne soil and stains or both.

Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabricsused in clothing and furniture.Scotchgardis a stain andsoil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet andfurniture.

Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water tothe surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil.


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Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada, laws requirethat children's sleepwear and certain householdfurnishings meet certain standards for flammabilityresistance.

Absorbent Finishes increase fibres' moisture holdingpower. Such finishes have been applied to towels, clothdiapers, underwear, sports shirts and other items where

moisture absorption is important


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FLAME RESISTANT FINISHES

. It Regulates the flammability of all peoples clothing.

This removes extremely hazardous materials, such as things that willflash over quickly with only a small spark.

Clothing will still burn, however, the amount of flame andcombustion is controlled.

Flammability regulations cover childrens sleepwear, carpets,mattresses,upholstered furniture.

These are applied to combustible fabrics used in children'ssleepwear, carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammabletextiles from bursting into flame.


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FRAGRANCE FINISH

Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent.

Microencapsulated skin moisturizers, vitamins and provitaminsare applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles, designed for wearin contact with skin. These are claimed to promote a younger look,counteracting the effects of skin ageing, e.g. as a result of exposure to UV-radiation. There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling.

Home Textiles

In other areas, household textiles such as curtains, sofas, cushions, sheets,as well as apparel items such as gloves, socks and ties may also be treated

with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes. The carpets

can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used inhome textiles as well as automotive textiles.


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Sport WearsAs the second skin of the human body, all types of textile areexcellent media for transferring fragrance compounds, and areessential to people in sport according to their preference for them.The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange,

lemonwhich will keep them energized on the ground for longerperiod.

Apparel

The scents of lavender, rose, citrus or vanilla were encapsulated intofabrics, which proved a good way to meet important psychologicaland emotional needs, as well as those of a purely physical andsensorial nature. Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrancescan be used in apparels, leisure wear, daily wears, party wears etc.


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FINISHES FOR SYNTHETIC FIBERS

Heat Setting: Heat setting of synthetic fabricseliminates the internal tensions within the fibergenerated during manufacture and the new state can befixed by rapid cooling.

This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state andthus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric.

On the other hand, post setting can be combined with

some other operations such as thermosol dyeing oroptical brightening of polyester, post setting as a finalfinish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along

with desired handle.


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Enzymatic finishes

Bio-polishing: This is a process to remove the

protruding fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme.This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers andcease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise intemperature of the treatment bath.


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SHRINKAGE CONTROL FINISHES

Some shrinkage expected inthe first wash after weaving,the tensions created by beingheld on the loom are relaxed.

Sanforized, compressive

shrinkage:Cottons are shrunk by

compressing fabric betweentwo blankets overfed overheated cylinders.

Sanfor-set, uses liquidammonia to make thecompressive shrinkage morepermanent


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shrinkagekage Control forWoolRemove the scales from thesurface of the fiberIs a halogenation treatment thatis fabric is treated with chlorine

Or coat the scales with apolymerCoating is usually nylon


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Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that holdadjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when theyare distorted

Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness, weakness, odor, soiling andaffinity for soil, less moisture absorbent.

WRINKLE RESISTANT FINISHES


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DENIM WASHINGAND FINISHES


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INTRODUCTION

Denim washing is know as one of the finishing treatmentthat has vast usage because of creating special appearanceand updating clothes

There is different methods of denim washing.

TYPES OF DENIM WASHES


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Types ofwashes

Mechanicalwashes

Stone wash Whiskering Sandblasting

Chemicalwashes

Enzymewash Bleach wash Acid wash spray

TYPES OF DENIM WASHES

CHEMICAL BASED

ON THE


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Types ofwashes

Dry wash

whiskering

Lasertechnology

Damage

Grinding

scrubbing

Wet wash

Stonewash

Enzymewash

Bleachwash

PPC spray

Tinting

Acid wash

ON THEBASIS OF

WATER


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1. Acid Wash-

It is done by tumbling the garments with pumic

stones presoaked in a solution of sodiumhypochlorite or potassium permanganate forlocalized bleaching resulting in a non uniformsharp blue/white contrast.

Results depends on:--Fabric -chemical used(conc.)-Stone(quantity) -machine used

Chemical Washes


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Limitations of acid wash: Tendency to be yellowish

incomplete reduction gives create problem

Remedy:

Manganese is effectively removed duringlaundering with addition of reducing agent(sodium

bisulfate,1-5gpl, 50 deg. Cent.,20mins)


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2.Denim Bleach-

To decolorize the dark shade into light shade bydestroying indigo.

INDIGO --------------------------. ISATIN

(oxidative bleaching agent)

Chemicals-

sodium hypochlorite

KMnO4

Hydrogen peroxide


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Discoloration produced is usually moreapparent depending :-

On strength of the bleach liquor

On bleach liquor quantityOn temperature and

On treatment time.

Drawback-

Harmful to human health and causes corrosionto stainless steel.


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3-E Bleaching concept for denim-

Bleaching with sulphiric acid derivatives, and

recently with laccase(enzyme). Technology in based on a Laccase(a redox

enzyme using mol. Oxygen as electron acceptor)and mediator.

eg. DeniLite(enzyme + PPT)


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Other chemical washes-

RINSE WASH

Ozone fading

Over dye- tinting

Sun washing

Quick wash denim

Water jet fading

Vintage etc.

B M h i l h


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B. Mechanical washes-

1. Stone washing-

Pumice stones give the additional effect of afaded or worn look

Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /1

Dia.of stone-1-7 cm

Pumice stone


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Recommended Specification for Stones-

Moisture content-less than 5%Surface properties-less than 5% fines

Apparent Density-0.5-0.75gm/cm3Abrasion loss-35%Impurities

when exceed 10% they increase apparent density1gm/cm3, the stone will not float in water duringprocess.


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2. Sand blasting:-

Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an

abrasive material in granular, powdered or otherform through a nozzle at very high speed andpressure onto specific areas of the garmentsurface.

Product lookProcess


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3.Whiskering-(Cat's Whiskers

)Industrially done with laser, sandblasting,machine sanding, hand sanding and rods.

'knee whiskers' -whiskers on the sides of knees

honeycombs' -crease marks on the back of theknee

Whiskers on skirt

honeycomb


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Other mechanical washes-

LASER TECHNOLOGY

SUPER STONEWASH

Scrapping

Grindings-


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grinding

Lasertechnology

Scrubbing

Tagging on pockets


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1.www.fibre2fashion.com2.Washing Report of Arvind Mills

3.Denim garment washing process-ATIRA4.Denim garment processing Express Textile5.Garment washing & finishing- Pearl Academyof Fashion


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Documents

Textile & Denim Finishes_02.12.11