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7/27/2019 Testing the Throttle Position Sensor
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Forum BMW Model Specific 3 series (E21, E30, E36, E46, E9x, F30) 1991 - 1999 (E36)
Testing the Throttle Position Sensor
Thread: Testing the Throttle Position Sensor
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04-13-2012, 04:06 PM
Join Date:Location:Posts:My Cars:
Nov 2009Madison, WI
433'96 328ic, '07 328xit
Testing the Throttle Position Sensor
I've been trying to track down an intermittent
problem that causes a hesitation and infrequently
causes the engine to stall. Also, on initially
pressing the accelerator from idle the revs dip then
rise - the car doesn't go so low as to stall, but
there is a noticeable delay in 'revving'. When thecar has stalled in the past it has been during
cruising or when coming to a stop.
All my diagnosing to date has come up empty. I've
tried various routine-maintenance type things
including much of what is posted on the 'official
bogging, hesitating, etc. thread'.
The current focus of my attention is the TPS. In
doing some internet research it seems that this
device could be causing my problems. However,
when I go through the testing procedure, I get a
bit confused.
Across terminals 1 and 3 I get 5 kohm - supposed
to get approx. 4 Kohms.
Across terminals 1 and 2 I get between 1.5 and 5
Kohms.
So this seems correct - although with the 1/2 test,
no matter how slow I turn the throttle the
multimeter occassionally 'OF'd' and or zeroed out.
Could this be a symptom of a faulty TPS, or just an
idiosyncracy of my meter?
What is more is that with the ignition on I get
basically zero volts across terminal 3 and itsground (which I assume is the female counterpart
in the harness).
I went on to test the car's running with the TPS
unplugged. I couldn't really say I noticed a
#1
Member
morzada
Forum
ing the Throttle Position Sensor http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1820893-Testi...
n 4 10.04.2013 19:05
7/27/2019 Testing the Throttle Position Sensor
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difference - although initially my ASC light was on (that TPS was still plugged in) - and no check
engine light. I shut off the car, unplugged them both - no change. Plugged them both back it,
ASC went off. Unplugged just the regular TPS and then got the check engine light.
I checked the codes, got a fault for the TPS and a fault for the Crank Sensor. I've had the crank
sensor fault before, but have replaced the CPS twice in the past.
Is this telling me anything, or am I destined to stay frustrated?
Just for the record, here is my recent maintenance list:
Replaced Plugs/Boots
Replaced Coils (replaced in stages with some from a swap meet)
Replaced Crank Angle Sensor (and harness)
Replaced Cam Angle Sensor
Replaced Fuel Filter
Replaced Both Front O2 Sensors
Replaced Water Pump, T-stat, bunch of hoses
Cleaned ICV
Cleaned MAF
Went over entire vacuum system - found the hose to the fuel pressure regulator was
disconnected.
Replaced Fuel Pump Relay
Replaced DME RelayChecked all the Chassis Grounds (all good)
Checked Trunk Lid Wiring (all good)
Serviced Injectors (caps, filters, o-rings)
Replaced Valve Cover Gasket
Replaced Oil-Filter Housing Gasket
Replaced Fuel Pump
Last edited by morzada; 04-13-2012 at 04:33 PM.
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04-13-2012, 05:41 PMJoin Date:Location:Posts:My Cars:
Oct 2006Greenville, NC
1,6741997 328i
convertible
The TPS is a potentiometer. It has a conductive strip whose ends are connected to terminals 1
and 3. Terminal 2 is connected to a wiper that slides on the conductive strip as you open the
throttle. When it wears out, the wiper will not make consistent contact and you will get the
action that you described.
#2
Member
RNeil
no matter how slow I turn the throttle the multimeter occassionally 'OF'd' and or zeroed out.Could this be a symptom of a faulty TPS, or just an idiosyncracy of my meter?
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04-18-2012, 06:53 PM
Join Date:Location:Posts:My Cars:
Aug 2011Bay Area, CA
851997 M3 Coupe
Also your TPS is out of spec. I replaced mine this morning since I was getting 1.5k ohms to 6k
ohms. Spec is 1k ohms to 4k ohms, which is exactly what my new one produces.
Not exactly sure what you mean by that. Are you plugging one test lead to the TPS and the
#3
Member
anotherhaus
What is more is that with the ignition on I get basically zero volts across terminal 3 and itsground (which I assume is the female counterpart in the harness).
ing the Throttle Position Sensor http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1820893-Testi...
n 4 10.04.2013 19:05
7/27/2019 Testing the Throttle Position Sensor
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other to the harness? It doesn't work that way. Voltage only comes through the harness (then
into and back out of the TPS). Both of your meter's test leads go into the harness; the hole that
mates to pin 3 on the TPS is the + lead, and the hole that mates to pin 1 is the - lead. I read
5.01 volts across those two.
Fortunately a new TPS is inexpensive and only takes a minute to bench test and install.
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04-28-2012, 08:35 PM
Join Date:Location:Posts:My Cars:
Nov 2009Madison, WI
433'96 328ic, '07 328xit
Anotherhaus - didn't see your reply until about 20 minutes ago when it was pointed out to me in
a different thread.
With your explanation I was able to verify that I have 5V out of the harness (seems that the
manual could have been a little clearer about that test - I don't speak good electrician). Off the
car my resistance read up to 6Kohms, too.
I also just happened to have a new TPS on my shelf which I just installed (was/am sidetrackedby what now appears to also be a fuel pressure issue).
Fingers crossed. Test drive tomorrow!
Last edited by morzada; 04-28-2012 at 08:49 PM.
#4
Member
morzada
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04-28-2012, 08:57 PM
Join Date:Location:
Posts:My Cars:
Dec 2008Woodstock, MD
2491993 325i
I'm curious about the results. I started another thread on something similar. A while back I was
getting TPS codes. The TPS checked out okay, but I replaced it, and the TPS code went away, so I
assume there was an intermittent bad contact. However, if I hit the throttle hard from idle the
revs dip before doing anything. There was also a loud whooshing noise coming from the
throttlebody. I assumed the two are related, but now I'm wondering if the loud whooshing noise
is normal, and a marginal TPS (particularly near idle) is is simply causing my car not to give it
fuel fast enough if you hit the gas hard.
#5
Member
hpmaxim
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04-29-2012, 12:07 AM
Join Date:Location:Posts:My Cars:
Sep 2010Chicago, IL.
9941996 328is
You can also check voltage between terminal 2 and ground
~.45 volts throttle closed, ~4.5 volts throttle open
Finding someone with a live data scanner is best, as you can make sure the DME is actually
getting thos signals
1996 328is Sport package
S52 cams/M50 manifold
Conforti CF Intake
Conforti Tune
3.91 LSD
#6
Member
DJCarbine
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