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TERRA MADRE BALKANS
DUBROVNIK, CROATIA
19 – 22 JUNE 2014
IMPLEMENTED IN COLLABORATION WITH
WITH THE SUPPORT OF
WITH TECHNICAL
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM
Terra Madre Balkan – Dubrovnik, 19 – 22 June 2014 1
The event The project promotes the participation of
producers and value chain supporter to
international fairs to get exposed to innovative
marketing strategies and get feedbacks on their
products by new markets consumers.
In that frame, the project assisted producers from
Serbia to attend Terra Madre Balkans in
Dubrovnik, an event organised by Slow Food. The
project also invited mandarines growers Neretva
and Kulen producers from Baranja to share their experience with the participants of
the fair and the Serbian producers assisted by the project.
More than 200 delegates from Southeast Europe fr om 11 countries (Albania, Bosnia
and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Greece, Kosovo, Montenegro, The Republic of
Macedonia, Romania, Serbia and Turkey) participated to Terra Madre Balkans 2014.
Slow Food President Carlo Petrini and the Minister of Agriculture participating in the
event.
The event offered a series of conferences and debates, which took place at the
University of Dubrovnik. The historical park Gradac hosted an Earth Market, where
over 30 booths gave visitors the chance to discover a wide selection of products from
food communities and Slow Food Presidia in the Balkans and producers supported by
the project. One of the sessions was the workshop “Traditional products &
Geographical Indications” organised by Slow Food with the support of the Project.
Participation of producers The project fully or partially supported the participation 16 producers (12 Serbian and
4 Croatian), 2 representatives of local authorities and of the fair of Novi Sad.
Terra Madre Balkan – Dubrovnik, 19 – 22 June 2014 2
Name Gende
r
food community City Role Contact
Vladica Veljkovic
M Oblacinska visnja Merosina Municipalty, EcoDev +381 63 7062432
Natasa
Andrejevic
F Oblcinska visnja Merosina Municipalty, EcoDev
Agency
Dusan Miladinovic
M Oblcinska visnja Merosina Oblcinska visnja coop director
Milinka Jovanovic
F Kopaonik processing Brus Kopaonik product, Kopiko ltd
063/8174292,
m
Andjelko Balaban
M Baranjski kulen Jagodnjak Mayor municipality of
Jagodnjak, MD Cooperative "Nase selo"
Josko Babic M Neretva mandarine Opuzen Member of the Neretva Fruit Associaition
3 producers from Neretva mandarine Opuzen Member of the Neretva
Fruit Associaition
Milenko Jovsic
M Macva Sovljak kod Bogatica
Member of the Slow food Serbia
+38163215016
Stevica Marković
M Leskovac ajvar Brestovac , Leskovac
Member of the Slow food Serbia
+381 63 487 844;
Miljan Cvetkovic
M Lokosnicka pepper Lokosnica dry pepper producer
Dragana Veljović
F Gledić Kraljevo President of the SF Gledić, Producer of rakija
+381658221145
Ivana Biočanin
F Gledić Kraljevo Member of the SF Gledić, buckwheat producer
+381600701721
Ivana Jankovic
F Futog Futog Member of the SF Futog, +381638750946 or
064/9618-644
Aleksandra Kopanja
F Novi Sad Agricultural Fair
Novi Sad Support institution for organising food events
064/311-76-98
Vesna-Olena Hardi
F Prod. Asso. Pepper “Capsicum Annuum”
Ruski Krstur Producer upp.capsicumannuum@g
mail.com
Milanka
Trtovic
F Zlatar cheese Komarani, Zlatar Cheese producer milanka.trtovic@gmail
.com
This large participation was made possible thanks to the joint funding by the project,
Slow Food and the Swiss government through the Intellectual Property Office of
Switzerland.
Slow Food covered the food and the lodging of the Presidio Delegates, the Swiss
contribution paid for the transportation by bus and the food and lodging of the Serbian
producers, while the project covered the costs of the project staff and the Croatian
producers.
Terra Madre Balkan – Dubrovnik, 19 – 22 June 2014 3
Outcomes of the Workshop on “Traditional products &
Geographical Indications”
The aim of the workshop was to understand why, while more than 1,400 products are
currently protected with geographical indication in the EU, only few of them belong
to the Balkan region.
The workshop was thought as an opportunity to present the concept and tools offered
by geographical indications to the Terra Madre food communities, especially
producers, who are often unfamiliar with
them.
The workshop was mainly moderated by
Michele Rumiz from Slow Food. After Sarah
Mercadante made a general introduction on
FAO/TCI involvement and Pascal Bernardoni
from REDD gave an overview over the GIs in
the Balkans (see annex), producers more or
less advanced in the process of protection and
promotion of Gis share their experience.
Anđeliko Babalaban Baransjki Kulen, Joško
Babić (Neretva Mandarine), Ivana Janković
(Futoski kupus), Stevica Marković
(Leskovacki Ajvar), Milanka Trtović
(Zlatarski Sir), Vladica Veljković (Merošina
Cherry), Milinka Jovanović (Kopaonik ajvar).
The workshop ended with the presentation of
Ms Ljubica Ajduković Ugarković -
Representative of the Minister of Regional
Development who presented the Programme
for Product from Croatian Islands and how
this programme relates to EU Geographical
Indications schemes.
The outcomes of the workshop reported by
Slow Food are in annex 1. This entails the
state of play, the good practices and
constraints emerging from initiatives
supported by FAO, as well as the main
challenges for the GIs in the Balkans.
“This project (protection of Baranski Kulen) allowed us to build a network of supportive stakeholders.”
“After a period of growth, Neretva mandarines faced increasing problems to find new markets. One way out of it has been the GI approach proposed by the project EBRD/FAO/SEEDEV/REDD and the Ministry of Agriculture.”
“In 2005, we started working for the protection of the Futog cabbage; and in 2007 we established an association. In 2010 we registered the GIs. Nowadays, all producers are certified.”
“We have also understood we needed to educate our consumers, and in this regard we organise several fairs, and we attend those of Slow Food.”
“Our new challenge is to promote traditional products; and explain why our product is usually more expensive than the industrial and generic products.”
“We had financial problems, because requesting a GI had costs for adapting the production facilities to the law requirements”
We are very proud with our production protocol. We produce the cheese from Zlatar from raw milk. The absence of pasteurisation is a very important asset, which defines the quality!
Tableau 1: The words of the producers
Terra Madre Balkan – Dubrovnik, 19 – 22 June 2014 4
Main difference between Slow Food Presidia and GIs approach
Slow Food Presidia Geographical Indications
Projects through which producers can achieve a
standardised high quality product which is
recognizable as such by consumers and the
market with the support of Slow Food
Quality standards that producers must comply with
to be allowed to use the product denomination
Slow Food Presidia are open to small-scale
farmers only.
Open to all producers of the defined area of
production who comply with the product
specifications and protocol of production
The rules of production must be taken, and
eventually changed, only with the approval of
Slow Food, which is an impartial body with no
direct interest in the production chain.
Slow Food is there to impartially guarantee that
the presidium product represents the ideals of
good, clean and fair.
The protocol of production of GIs can be changed
so many ways to ease and reduce the production
costs, while deteriorate the initial quality of the
products.
The public authority is supposed to prevent over-
permissive codes of practice.
Private recognition and certification
Costs of establishing and run a Presidium are
usually lower than a GI.
Official public recognition of protection
GIs in EU and candidate countries have a much
higher degree of protection, (similar degree as
for trademarks).
Conclusions: room for manoeuvre in between the Terra Madre Balkans network
and the stakeholders involved with GIs
Slow Food and Terra Madre network and the stakeholders involved in promoting GIs
in Balkans are both devoted to the sustainable rural development of the region.
Each of the two approaches might be adapted to different types of producers. This
does not mean that the two tools are completely disconnected. Indeed, if as the above
table suggests it, the Presidio is rather thought for small-scale producers and the GI
for more formal market oriented producers, the characterisation of the producers, by
size and target market is important, in order to decide about the best instrument to use.
For products that can be a Presidio or a GI, different scenarios can appear:
Export-oriented or long value chain searching stronger recognition and legal
protection. Stakeholders might opt for the GI
Smaller value chain with producers in need of support on production,
marketing and VC organisation. The Presidio as a capacity building tool with
limited costs is better adapted that the GI requiring also third party
certification and strong managing organisation.
Several types of producers differing by their size and the market they target
within the same value chain producing a good that has a local and an export
markets. A Presidio and a GI could co-exist
Terra Madre Balkan – Dubrovnik, 19 – 22 June 2014 5
Rather small volumes and limited market, but progressive up-scaling of
production, with new target markets requiring new forms of promotion and
protection. The Presidion and the GI can succeed to each other
Legally recognised protected GIs are an important tool that could foster the economic,
social, and cultural development of rural communities, hence Terra Madre food
communities should have a higher chance to be involved, in the future, in any event
(whether meeting, training, or conference) that further investigate the functioning and
implementation of GIs, so to leave such communities the choice of understanding
whether it is worthwhile for them to invest in such process.
At the same time, producers’ associations or consortiums involved in GIs should be
more involved in the Terra Madre Balkans discourse, both at the international,
regional, and national level, so to benefit from the constant exchange of information
and know-how occurring within the Terra Madre Balkans network. Last but not least,
both Terra Madre Balkans food communities and the stakeholders involved in
promoting GIs should develop future initiatives targeting consumers so to achieve
behavioural change.
Interestingly, the day after the GI session, Carlo Petrini recognised that focusing only
on the smallest producers, with limited production volumes explains to a great extent
why Slow Food proposals to policy-makers have limited weight. In order to become a
player influencing policies, greater attention must be paid to the economic aspect said
the President of Slow Food.
Terra Madre Balkan – Dubrovnik, 19 – 22 June 2014 6
Conclusions reported by Slow Food
The state of play of GIs in the Balkans
GI products generically refer to those products with specific qualities, which are
linked to the area of productions. Within the very wide set of GI products, only a
smaller set of them are legally recognised protected products.
GIs in the Balkans are a new process in the region, and it is new for all the
stakeholders involved: producers, Civil Society Organisations, and also competent
authorities. This is mainly because, until recently, they were perceived as an
intellectual property, not as a tool for rural development. This perception is slowly
evolving, and today more or less every country in the region has adopted a regulation
in line with EU regulations, also thanks to the enlargement process and the related
adaptation with EU acquis. Within the region, former Yugoslav countries are more
prone to this process, as they have a long and established tradition in the GI treaties.
Main good practices emerged in the Balkans through FAO projects
Pay thoroughly attention on the code of practices and quality control systems,
otherwise granting quality becomes a remarkable challenge;
In order to ensure quality it is fundamental to include not just producers, but
also all other relevant stakeholders involved in the production chain, such as
processors. Building consortiums or having all stakeholders acting as “a single
firm” is critical to the success of the brand and of the product;
The implementation of thorough quality control (both internally and external,
by certification bodies) at all level of the production process, not just on the
final product;
Having strong producers associations is key. Strength and unity is key to ensure
organisation capacity and financial capability, and it also avoid the whole
process being hijacked by local politicians.
Main constraints emerged in the Balkans through FAO projects
The most common problem relies on poor law enforcement. Laws and rules
regulating GIs are usually well drafted but very poorly implemented. This leads
to expropriations, in the sense that everybody uses the name, even when there is
no adequate quality check.
Terra Madre Balkan – Dubrovnik, 19 – 22 June 2014 7
Future challenge for GIs in the Balkans
Law enforcement, as aforementioned;
Further spread GIs as a viable tool for rural development;
Ensuring adequate quality control systems and their enforcement;
Increasing production of GI products. In many cases the production is so limited
not to be worthwhile investing time and resources for. Even value-chain or niche-
market products require a minimum critical mass to become successful.
Main difference between Slow Food Presidia and GIs approach
First of all, although Slow Food Presidia are also a tool used to certify the quality
of a given product and its production chain, they are mainly projects. Hence they
are a path through which producers can, relying on the support of Slow Food,
achieve a standardised high quality product which is recognizable as such by
consumers and the market.
Most important, while GIs are open to all producers who correspond to a specific
geographical location or origin and produce that given product adhering to its
protocol of production, Slow Food Presidia are open to small-scale farmers only.
The rules of production must be taken, and eventually changed, only with the
approval of Slow Food, which is an impartial body with no direct interest in
the production chain (Slow Food does not buy or sell, nor it receive revenues
from the sales); Producers do not decide alone, as Slow Food is there to
impartially guarantee that the presidium product represents the ideals of good,
clean and fair that our association pursue; This avoid cases where the protocol of
production of GIs has been changed so many ways to ease and reduce the
production costs, while deteriorate the initial quality of the products.
Slow Food Presidia are a private recognition and certification; therefore the costs
of establishing and run a Presidium are usually lower than a GI. However, GIs in
EU and candidate countries have a much higher degree of protection, as they
are an official public recognition of protection, and hence the protection afforded
to geographical indications by law is generally similar to the protection afforded to
trademarks, and in particular, certification marks.
Conclusions: room for manoeuvre in between the Terra Madre Balkans network
and the stakeholders involved with GIs
Slow Food and Terra Madre network and the stakeholders involved in promoting GIs
in Balkans are both devoted to the sustainable rural development of the region.
Terra Madre Balkan – Dubrovnik, 19 – 22 June 2014 8
Legally recognised protected GIs are an important tool that could foster the economic,
social, and cultural development of rural communities, hence Terra Madre food
communities should have a higher chance to be involved, in the future, in any event
(whether meeting, training, or conference) that further investigate the functioning and
implementation of GIs, so to leave such communities the choice of understanding
whether it is worthwhile for them to invest in such process.
At the same time, producers’ associations or consortiums involved in GIs should be
more involved in the Terra Madre Balkans discourse, both at the international,
regional, and national level, so to benefit from the constant exchange of information
and know-how occurring within the Terra Madre Balkans network. Last but not least,
both Terra Madre Balkans food communities and the stakeholders involved in
promoting GIs should develop future initiatives targeting consumers so to achieve
behavioural change.
Terra Madre Balkan – Dubrovnik, 19 – 22 June 2014 9
13.02.15
1
Geographical Indications in the Balkans
1
Geographical Indications in the
Balkans
2
A long tradition but everything is new
! Long tradition of GIs in Yugoslavia
! Only intellectual property instrument until early / mid
2000s
! Rural development and quality tool for 10 years
! Agriculture policy
! Step-by-step modification of legal and regulatory
framework inspired from the EU regulations and
directives. 3
! National authorities
! Local governments
! Producers (primary and processors)
! International organisations
4
A renewed interest
Good practices
! Code of practices and quality control system that
guarantee quality
! Producer and processor organisation (Interprofession/
Consorzio)
! Law enforcement
5
Current constraints
! No tradition of process based quality control
! Weak producers organisations – Organisation capacity.
Ownership
! No enforcement of the law
6
Terra Madre Balkan – Dubrovnik, 19 – 22 June 2014 10
13.02.15
2
Positive outcomes
! Value chain management
! Groups mobilisation of for all range of collective
actions
! Preparation to compliance obligations
! Improved quality
! Price increase
7
Future challenges
! Law enforcement
! Higher use if Gis
! Quality
! Production Upscalling
! Food safety derogation for small scale processing
8
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9
a"guide"for"promo- ng"quality"linked"to"geographical"origin"and"sustainable"geographical"indica- ons"
"A"methodology"for"par- cipatory"inventories
%
GUIDE
Linking people, places and
products. A guide for promoting quality linked to
geographical origin and sustainable GIs
Linking People, Places and Products:
a guide for promoting quality linked to
geographical origin and sustainable
geographical indications
Published in Chinese, English, French, and
Spanish; shortly to be available in Croat,
Portuguese and Serbian
All available on line:
www. foodquality-origin.org
Pascal Bernardoni
REDD
www.redd.ch
Thanks