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Construction Technology (Finishes) AKNOWLEDGEMENT Assalamualaikum, First of all, I would like to say Alhamdulillah, for giving me the strength and health to do this assignment until it done. Not forgotten to my family for providing everything, such as money, to buy anything that are related to this assignment and their advises, which is the most needed for this assignment. Internet and books as my sources to complete this assignment. They also supported me and encouraged me to complete this task so that I will not procrastinate in doing it. Then I would like to thank my lecturer En. Ismail B. Yusof for guiding me and my friends throughout this assignment. We had some difficulties in doing this task, but he taught us patiently until we knew what to do. He tried and tried to teach us until we understand what we supposed to do with the project work. Last but not least, my friends who were doing this assignment with me and sharing our ideas. They were helpful that when we combined and discussed together, we had this task done. Page | 1

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Page 1: techik

Construction Technology(Finishes)

AKNOWLEDGEMENT

Assalamualaikum,

First of all, I would like to say Alhamdulillah, for giving me the strength and health to

do this assignment until it done. Not forgotten to my family for providing everything, such as

money, to buy anything that are related to this assignment and their advises, which is the most

needed for this assignment. Internet and books as my sources to complete this assignment.

They also supported me and encouraged me to complete this task so that I will not

procrastinate in doing it.

Then I would like to thank my lecturer En. Ismail B. Yusof for guiding me and my

friends throughout this assignment. We had some difficulties in doing this task, but he taught

us patiently until we knew what to do. He tried and tried to teach us until we understand what

we supposed to do with the project work.

Last but not least, my friends who were doing this assignment with me and sharing our

ideas. They were helpful that when we combined and discussed together, we had this task

done.

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Construction Technology(Finishes)

INTRODUCTION

`

FLOOR FINISHES

It is usually applied to a structural base but may from part of the floor

structure. E.g. floor boards.

Components mainly comprises of screed or adhesive surface tiles and skirting.

For natural stones, finish of surface with sealer

Type of floor finishes to be used depend on factors such as type of base, room

usage , degree of comfort required, maintenance problems , cost , appearance,

safety, and individual preference.

Most finishes are chosen to fulfil a particular function such as :

Appearance : chosen mainly for their aesthetic appeal or defect but

should however have reasonable wearing properties. E.g. carpet tiles

and wood block.

High resistance : chosen mainly for their wearing and impact

resistance properties and for high usage areas such as kitchens. E.g.

quarry tiles and granolithic paving.

Hygiene : chose to provide an impervious easy to clean surface wiyh

reasonable aesthetic appeal. E.g. quarry tiles and polyvinyl chloride

(PVC) sheet and tiles.

Floor finishes also can be considered under three main headings:

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In –situ floor finishes: those finishes that are mixed on site, laid in a

fluid state, allowed to dry and set to form a hard jointless surface.

Applied floor finishes: those finishes that are supplied in tile or sheet

form and are laid onto a suitably prepared base.

Timber floor finishes : boards, sheets and blocks of timber laid or

attached to a suitable structural frame or base.

Wall Finishes

Wall finishes, we can apply wall finishes to two types of wall, which is internal wall

and externall finishes. But the finishes that we apply depend to the type of wall, such as

internal wall or external wall. For external wall we can use paint, rendering, clad with board

or tiles. For internal wall, we can use plaster and paint, drylining, glazed tiles or partition.

Ceiling Finishes

Ceiling finishes divided into multiple type, ssuch as plaster of paris, tin ceiling tile,

acoustic ceiling, and plasterboard ceiling. For plasterboard ceiling, we need to nailed it to

timber batten. Usually size 1200mm x 600mm. In between panels, fix timber beading to close

gap. The common material with similar fixing such as expanded polystrene, mineral fibre,

fibreboard and glass fibre.

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SELECTED LOCATION

History : Masjid Ubudiah

– ranking high on the list of

Malaysia’s most beautiful

mosques, the Masjid Ubudiah (or

Ubudiah Mosque) stands proudly

and majestically in Kuala

Kangsar, with its golden dome

and minarets creating a

spellbinding sight, from near and afar.The mosque was designed by Arthur Benison

Hubback, a government architect who is notably credited for the design of the Ipoh railway

station and the Kuala Lumpur railway station.Built in 1917 during the reign of the 28th

Sultan of Perak, Sultan Idris Murshidul’adzam Shah, the Masjid Ubudiah is located beside the

Royal Mausoleum on Bukit Chandan. It was commissioned on the orders of the Sultan, who

vowed that he would build a mosque of great beauty as thanksgiving for recovery from an

illness which plagued him in those early days.The construction of the mosque was not without

difficulties. Work was interrupted several times, once when two elephants belonging to the

sultan’s and Raja Chulan were fighting and ran over and damaged the imported Italian marble

titles.The mosque was finally completed in late 1917 at a total cost of RM200,000- quite an

astronomical figure for those days. It was officially declared open by Sultan Abdul Jalil

Karamtullah Shah, successor to Sultan Idris. This imposing structure is now a symbol of great

pride to all Muslims in the state of Perak Darul Ridzuan, the Land of Grace.

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Design : In terms of design it is also very interesting. Plan has been prepared by the designer

of the Federated Malay States Government, under the supervision of Arthur Benison Hubback

WAS Huxley. It Octagon-shaped and has four towers 126 feet tall and surrounded by domes

on the inside which each diameter measuring 60 feet long. Parts of the mosque's walls and

floors with a red stone and white marble brought in especially from Italy and London.

Form the walls of the mosque showing a large main domed building in the centre

surrounded by four porches containing a dome in the middle of the porch, the main tower of

eight and sixteen towers wedge. Total dome and tower in conjunction with the arrangement

said to have taken the title of The Great-Great People of Georgetown, the Great de-eight, and

The Big Sixteen. Parent space is 20 mx 20 m and enclosed by a 2.5 m wide main foyer which

has a dome. A tank for ablution is located on the east side of the foyer.

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Construction Technology(Finishes)

FLOOR FINISHES

Type : Carpet

Definition :

A carpet is a textile floor covering consisting of an upper layer of "pile" attached to a

backing. The pile is generally either made from wool or a manmade fibre such as

polypropylene, and usually consists of twisted tufts

which are often heat-treated to maintain their structure.

Advantages

i. They are small and easily manageable

The size of it approximately 2 feet by 2 feet, more or less. This makes it easy to carry

them from the store, bring them to your house and lay them on the floor.

ii. Very convenient to install

You can do it yourself. There is no glue required, as they have an adhesive surface on

the bottom which sticks to any pre-existing flooring. Simple instruments are needed

such as a measuring tape, a straight line alignment tool, and scissors and knives.

iii. It is very cheap

 The cheapest variety can start from as low as RM 3.20, but their prices can go too

high, depending on their quality. However, it is true that carpet will be cheaper than a

wall to wall carpet of similar quality.

iv. It is very easy to install and save your time

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You do not need to remove your existing floor, which you need to do when you are

putting in several kinds of flooring. You can put on the carpet tiles on most kinds of

existing flooring, including wood, linoleum, marble, granite and even stone.

Disadvantages

i. Health Risks

Carpet flooring is a natural site for the accumulation of dust and dust mites, according

to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. This poses a health risk to everyone

living in the house or building. Carpet flooring should be avoided if people living in

the house have respiratory or allergy problems.

ii. Maintenance Expenses

Carpeting is usually made of less resilient materials than other flooring types

increasing its likelihood of damage. Carpet loops can be easily yanked by pet claws

and furniture causing damage that is difficult to repair

iii. Damage Prone

Carpeting is usually made of less resilient materials than other flooring types

increasing its likelihood of damage. Carpet loops can be easily yanked by pet claws

and furniture causing damage that is difficult to repair.

iv. Longevity

The majority of carpets are made of synthetic materials. Synthetic carpets tend to have

a relatively short lifespan--sometimes as short as 10 to 15 years--due to the constant

wear and tear that is incurred. Though other carpet options, such as wool fibre carpets,

can last up to 30 years.

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Suitability and selection

Carpet is one of the popular floor fitting, prized for its warmth, versatility,

insulation abilities and the protection it provides unfinished floors. It is selected

because of its suitability. Carpet has a safety and smooth features. The soft surfaces of

carpet make it has a selected finishes to cover the internal floor of Ubudiah Mosque at

Bukit Chandan Kuala Kangsar, Perak. It give a comfortable atmosphere to a prayers

member when their pray.

Carpet also has a beutiful surfaces. Because of that carpet has been selected as

a cover for the internal floor finishes of that mosque. As we known, Ubudiah Mosque

as a Sultan Azlan Shah Mosque. So, it has to make sure the mosque look beutiful.

Tools and Materials

1) Awl 

2) Carpet of choice (sized for your job) 

3) Carpet knife

4) Carpet padding 

5) Chalk line

6) Duct tape 

7) Gripper edge 

8) Hammer

9) Heavy scissors

10) Knee kicker (rented from carpet manufacturer) 

11) Masonry nails 

12) Measuring tape 

13) Power stretcher (rented from carpet manufacturer)

14) Rolling pin

15) Row cutter 

16) Safety glasses

17) Saw or shears 

18) Seaming iron (rented from carpet manufacturer)

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19) Seaming tape

20) Stair tool 

21) Staple gun 

22) Strip cutter

23) Tackless strip 

24) Trimmer 

25) Utility knife

26) Wall trimmer

27) Work gloves 

Installation Of Carpet

Prepare the Floor 

Before you install your new carpet, you need to prep your floors. Begin the floor

preparation by cleaning your surface area. 

This means if you are laying carpet down on wooden

floors or removing old carpet to install a new one, you should

sweep and/or vacuum the area well to ensure that the area is free

of dirt and debris. If you are installing carpet directly over

concrete, however, it is extra important that the installation area

is as dry as possible, and that it will not be subject to excess moisture, which can ruin your

new carpet. So bottom line: in order for the new carpet to be laid correctly, you must have the

installation area dry and as flat as possible. 

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More about prep work

Now that your area is prepped, use your pry bar to remove the old carpet from the

tackless strip. Fold up the old carpet and move it out of the room. But don’t get rid of the

tackless strip or the carpet pad underneath the old carpet. If the tackless strip and carpet pad

are still in good shape, you can reuse them. 

The Carpet Padding 

Your carpet padding is just as important as the carpet itself. Why? Because a good

carpet pad creates a good cushioned layer underfoot, but a

great carpet pad will create a resilient cushioned layer

underfoot, provide good insulation from cold, help noise

reduction, and prolong the life of your carpet. 

Padding is sold in a variety of thicknesses, densities

and weights to provide the right feel and to protect the carpet

from premature wear. Always use a quality backing but remember that thicker is not always

better. For example, you should not use carpet padding thicker than 3/8 inch in heavy traffic

areas, including on your steps and in your hallways. 

Make sure the carpet pads you use in these areas are dense and heavy but not too thick

or lightweight. Anything too lightweight will flex too much underfoot and this can be

dangerous. To avoid purchasing the wrong carpet pad, test out the carpet you plan to install by

going to a showroom and walking across your carpet sample with different padding samples

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underneath. This will help you get a realistic feel for what your carpet will feel like before

you purchase it. 

Step-by-Step Guide To Installing Carpet

Caution: To protect your hands, be sure you always wear heavy work gloves or leather

gloves and safety glasses when installing or handling the tackless strips. 

Step 1: Installing The Tackless Strips!

Cut your tackless strip using a saw or sears so there is a strip to fit the length of each

wall. Starting in the corner of the room, use at least two masonry nails per tackless strip to

nail the tackless strips down around the room. Make sure you leave a 2/3” gap between the

tackless strip and wall for your carpet and padding. 

Note: you have successfully nailed strips around the entire room when the strips unite

at the corners and the “sharp raised teeth” in each strip used to hold the carpet in place are

facing the wall. If you are installing carpet over concrete, you can nail the tackless strips right

into the concrete subfloor. To install new carpet over tile flooring, remove the tiles where you

are nailing the tackless strips. 

Step 2: Install Carpet Padding 

Cut the carpet padding into strips. Each strip needs to be long enough to fit the

perimeter of the room. Each strip should also cover every tackless strip along each wall. With

the waffle side of the padding facing up, use your staple gun to put in staples along the edges

of the carpet padding every six inches. If you are installing carpet padding over concrete, you

need to affix the padding to the floor with adhesive. Do this by applying carpet pad adhesive

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around the pad ends and letting it dry. 

Your carpet padding seams should not overlap. To make sure the seams do not

overlap, butt the strips of padding against each other to create one smooth seam then tape the

pieces together. Cut and tape (with duct tape) all the padding until your entire floor is

covered. In order for your carpet edges to fit neatly under your room’s baseboards, you need

to allow about a 1/2" gap between the strip and the wall when installing the padding. Trim any

excess padding with your utility knife. 

Step 3: Measure, Cut and Lay the Carpet 

Measure the length and width of your room. Then take your utility knife and cut the

carpet (turn it face down when cutting) from the backside approximately 5 to 6 inches longer

than your room’s dimensions. Trim the carpet’s excess. To do so, lay each carpet piece over

each other so that they match up at the edges. It is important to cut the carpet in the same

direction the pile is facing. This goes for how to lay the carpet as well—in the direction of its

pile. 

Step 4: Cut the Carpet Seam 

Match up the edges of the carpet allowing approximately 2 inches of extra carpet at the

base of the wall. Mark a chalk line on the underside of the excess carpet edge and cut a clean,

even seam line. Then take the top piece and fold it over the bottom piece. This will be your

guide to cutting a clean, even seam on the bottom piece this time. 

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Step 5: Cut a length of seaming tape and center it under the seam. 

To make the seams, cut a piece of hot-melt seaming tape to length. The adhesive side

of the tape should be facing up. Center the tape under the carpet seam and butt them up

against each other. Use a seaming iron (carpet iron) to heat the adhesive tape by slowly

passing the iron down over the tape. As the adhesive melts, pinch the carpet pieces together

over the tape. Then take your rolling pin and go over the seam to get it as smooth as possible. 

Step 6: Affix the Carpet 

Use the stair tool (knee kicker) to affix the carpet in the corner first. Dig the teeth of

the stair tool into the carpet about 1 inch from the wall, give a swift kick of your knee into the

cushioned end of the stair stool and hook the carpet to the tackless strip. 

Step 7: Use the Power Stretcher to Attach the Carpet 

Now that the corner is hooked, you are going to take your carpet stretcher and pull the

carpet at the opposite side of the room. Here’s how: 

1. You place the base of your power stretcher at the wall, but use a leftover piece of carpet

behind it to pad the wall. 

2. Insert the head of the power stretcher about six inches from the wall and have the foot of

the power stretcher rest against the wall. 

3. Now dig the (head) teeth into the carpet, press down on the lever, and lock the stretcher into

place. 

4. Stretch the carpet by pulling the carpet toward the other wall’s tackless strip. 

5. Use your stair tool to attach the carpet to the tackless strip. 

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Continue stretching the carpet’s edges until they are attached to all the tackless trips in your

room. 

Step 8: Trimming the Excess 

Adjust the wall trimmer to the carpet thickness and cut away any excess carpet along

each wall. Trim the last few inches with a sharp utility knife. 

Step 9: Tidying the Edges 

Take your stair tool and tuck the edges of the carpet between the wall and the tackless

strips, right under the baseboards. 

Step 10: Secure the Carpet in Place 

Turn your attention to the piece of carpet under the doorway. Trim the excess carpet.

Now nail a metal strip over the carpet’s edges to secure the carpet into place. Or install a

gripper edge. 

Step 11: It’s installed

Now that the carpet is installed, take your seam roller and run it along the seam. This

will help the nap of the carpet pieces blend together so that the pieces look like one seamless

piece of carpet. 

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Construction Technology(Finishes)

Type : Terrazzo

Definition : Terrazzo is a book written in 1947 by Puerto Rican writer Abelardo Diaz Alfaro.

The book won many awards, including that of the Sociedad de Periodistas Universitario y

Instituto de Literatura Puertorriqueña, and made it to

the national libraries of many other Latin American

countries where Diaz Alfaro was a known and

respected writer.

Terrazzo tells the stories of abuse, racism and

suffering of many Puerto Rican blacks during the

19th century at the hands of Puerto Rico's vast white majority. Its 20 chapters, while

presumably made up of fictional stories, talk about the way many black workers used to be

treated by many white slave owners.

The book has been considered by many as one of the tools that helped Puerto Rican people

realize that there was some racism in Puerto Rico's past.

Advantagesi. Can easily cleaned and germ resistant and also quite durable.

The surface of the terrazzo in slippery and smooth surface.

ii. Last long If cared for in the right manner

iii. Look beutifulThe surface of the terrazzo is shiny

iv. Durability

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Ceramic surfaces have a relatively longer life if compared to most of the other materials used for floor and wall covering.

Disadvantagesi. Turn slippery when wet

Because of its characteristic (smooth shiney)less grip.

ii. Exspensive maintenenceCost to wax the surface of terrazzo

iii. Have to handle it carefully when install itWhen it fall. Terrazzo can easily crash because of it materials.

iv. TempretureIt can easily turn cold and hot. When expose to wheather and it makes us feel uncormfortable.

Suitability and selection

The terrazo has been used at this mosque to covering the wall because terrazzo can easily to take a good care of it. It also has a highers durability and give an advantages to maintanence this finishes. And most important, terrazzo has a beautiful and shiny surface.

Tools and materials

cement board tile adhesive tile sheets wet saw square-notched trowel tile nippers utility knife tape measure

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Installation of terrazzo

Floor Preparation

Terrazzo flooring is typically installed over a concrete subfloor. Some installers add a thin layer of

sand and cement to the concrete while others pour the terrazzo directly onto the concrete. Before

installation can begin, the floor must be properly prepared

to receive this material. First, metal divider strips are

arranged to separate different colors or designs that are

planned for the terrazzo floor.

These strips are made from brass, copper or aluminum

depending on the desired finish. The strips may be glued to

the concrete subfloor using an epoxy adhesive or may

simply be set into the sand and cement base, if applicable.

Additional metal dividers are also placed at control joints along the concrete floor. This helps prevent the

terrazzo from cracking due to shifts in the concrete. Finally, a concrete primer is added to the entire floor to

help the terrazzo bond with the surface.

Pouring the Terrazzo

A terrazzo floor is made from a two part epoxy mixture. This mixture contains an epoxy resin and

a complementary hardener, which must be mixed immediately before use because of their quick drying

time. Some terrazzo floors use pigments and dyes to color the epoxy, while others use a clear finish. The

epoxy is mixed and spread within the metal strips using a trowel. As soon as it has been poured, an

aggregate mixture is spread across the surface. This aggregate may contain glass, marble or stone, and may

be a blend of several different materials. The aggregate will settle into the epoxy as it hardens so that some

stones rest at the surface and others are embedded underneath. One color at a time is poured and allowed to

dry overnight. This process is repeated until the entire floor has been poured and allowed to cure.

Polishing and Sealing

After the terrazzo is dry, installers use a heavy-duty floor grinder to polish the surface. They start

with a high level of abrasion and repeat the process using finer and finer grinding tools. When this process

is complete, the floor is very smooth and even, with little to no texture. After the polishing is complete, a

clear sealer is added to the surface of the floor. This sealer prevents water and other substances from

permeating the surface, helping to repel stains and prolong the life of the terrazzo.

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Type : Parquet

Definition : Parquetry is a geometric mosaic of wood pieces used for decorative effect. The two main uses of parquetry are as veneer patterns on furniture and block patterns for flooring. Parquet patterns are entirely geometrical and angular squares, triangles, lozenges. The most popular parquet flooring pattern is herringbone. (The use of curved and natural shapes constitutes marquetry rather than parquetry.)

Advantages

i. parquet flooring decorating value It is very rich of look and texture. For, parquet flooring consists of small pieces of

material, which allows decorators to create various floor patterns of them it provides decorators with the variety of choice in texture and colour, because it can

be made of different wood types, such as dark or light colour wood, cherry, beech, oak, etc.

ii. can choose from a variety of design styles and patterns can also find some more exotic parquet options, such as bamboo, mosaic or colour

parquet, which can suit any interior decor ideas or preferences

iii. Parquet flooring characteristics make it very easy to maintain and excellent for everyday wear and tear use. 

It is not only moisture or scratch resistant, but it is also pretty easy to renovate. For, once in several years parquet flooring can be sanded and varnish polished and this will return its new and fresh look.

iv. Selecting parquet flooring material one does not have consider carefully all its future usage and maintenance conditions.

For, parquet flooring is rather strong material and environmentally friendly. Made of plywood, for instance, parquet flooring can be even used for such facilities as basements

v. It is very cost-efficient Non expensive polish renovation parquet flooring can retain its gorgeous and fresh

look for many years.

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Disadvantages

i. It is expensive Because only natural materials can be used instead of synthetic ones

ii. It takes time to set parquet It takes a long period because it has to be laid in Strips or Planks

iii. Sometimes parquet becomes slippery and dangerous to walk on in Socks Because we have to put the finishes at parquet which is vanish, to smooth the surface

of the parquet and so, it will become slippery

Suitability and selection

Many people like parquet flooring than other flooring, because there is more

advantages than disadvantages. Such as, we can make parquet look attractive because it is

very rich of look and texture. Besides that, it allows us to decorators to create various floor

patterns of them. Moreover, it is very cost efficient. We do not have to buy expensive polish

renovation parquet flooring because by only using the non expensive polish it can retain its

gorgeous and fresh look for many years. Parquet also is very strong and tough and even if

heavy objects are dropped or placed on it, it never gets dent or scratched. Since parquet floors

are made from timber, so it is natural, the environment of the home adopts an earthy feel,

something that is peaceful and inviting. Other than that, Parquet flooring characteristics make

it very easy to maintain and excellent for everyday wear and tear use. So, we do not have to

worry because it is not only moisture or scratch resistant, but it is also pretty easy to renovate.

For, once in several years parquet flooring can be sanded and varnish polished and this will

return its new and fresh look. The most important advantages using parquet floors over other

flooring types is that they will never go out of style. Even if you were to change the style,

theme, or decorum of the room, the floors would complement. 

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Tools and materials

Tools for Parquet Floors Chalkline and Chalk Toothed trowel 150-lb. roller Jig saw HandsawMaterials for Parquet Floors Leveling compound Mastic or adhesive Particle board or luan mahogany plywood Parquet tiles Plywood Reducer strip 6-penny ring shank nails Adhesive cleaning solvent

Installation of parquet

Firstly we have to prepare the sub-floor. Sub-flooring must be level. Do not install

parquet flooring over another glued-down floor. If necessary, lay new sheets of 1/4-

inch plywood down to form a new, level sub-floor. Set sub-flooring in place with

screws, not with nails.

Secondly,use your measuring tape to find the center of each wall, then snap a chalk line

from each center point so that the lines cross in the

exact center of the room. Make sure your chalk lines

are perpendicular to your walls.

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Then ,nail 1x2s along your chalk lines to ensure a perfectly straight line to begin your

installation. Start in the center of the room. Using your notched trowel at a 45 degree

angle to the floor, spread enough adhesive for the first three or four parquet tiles.

Fourth. set the first tile in place, making certain it is butted firmly against your 1x2. It

is vital that this first tile be square to your walls. Once it is set in place, simply set the

second tile into place, locking the two tiles together with the pre-cut tongue-and-

groove joint. Without moving the first two tiles, simply continue spreading a layer of

glue and then adding new tiles, following your 1x2 until approximately a dozen tiles

have been laid in a square pattern near the center of the room.

The last step is,remove your 1x2, being careful not to disturb the perfect alignment of

your tiles. Continue spreading glue and adding tiles until you come to the edge of the

room. It may become necessary to cut tiles to fit to the edge of the room. If so, use a

chop saw or a table saw to cut your tiles. Leave at least a 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch

expansion joint at each wall. Let the glue dry per the manufacturer's instructions

before walking on your new floor.

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WALL FINISHES

Type : Carpet

Definition :

A carpet is a textile floor covering consisting of an upper layer of "pile" attached to a

backing. The pile is generally either made from wool or a

manmade fibre such as polypropylene, and usually consists

of twisted tufts which are often heat-treated to maintain

their structure.

Advantages

i. They are small and easily manageable

The size of it approximately 2 feet by 2 feet, more or less. This makes it easy to carry them

from the store, bring them to your house and lay them on the floor.

ii. Very convenient to install

You can do it yourself. There is no glue required, as they have an adhesive surface on the

bottom which sticks to any pre-existing flooring. Simple instruments are needed such as a

measuring tape, a straight line alignment tool, and scissors and knives.

iii. It is very cheap

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The cheapest variety can start from as low as RM 3.20, but their prices can go too high,

depending on their quality. However, it is true that carpet will be cheaper than a wall to wall

carpet of similar quality.

iv. It is very easy to install and save your time

You do not need to remove your existing floor, which you need to do when you are putting in

several kinds of flooring. You can put on the carpet tiles on most kinds of existing flooring,

including wood, linoleum, marble, granite and even stone.

Disadvantages

i. Health Risks

Carpet flooring is a natural site for the accumulation of dust and dust mites, according to the

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. This poses a health risk to everyone living in the

house or building. Carpet flooring should be avoided if people living in the house have

respiratory or allergy problems.

ii. Maintenance Expenses

Carpeting is usually made of less resilient materials than other flooring types increasing its

likelihood of damage. Carpet loops can be easily yanked by pet claws and furniture causing

damage that is difficult to repair

iii. Damage Prone

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Carpeting is usually made of less resilient materials than other flooring types increasing its

likelihood of damage. Carpet loops can be easily yanked by pet claws and furniture causing

damage that is difficult to repair.

iv. Longevity

The majority of carpets are made of synthetic materials. Synthetic carpets tend to have a

relatively short lifespan--sometimes as short as 10 to 15 years--due to the constant wear

and tear that is incurred. Though other carpet options, such as wool fibre carpets, can last

up to 30 years.

Suitability and selection

Carpet is one of the popular floor fitting, prized for its warmth, versatility, insulation

abilities and the protection it provides unfinished floors. It is selected because of its

suitability. Carpet has a safety and smooth features.

Carpet also has a beutiful surfaces. Because of that carpet has been selected as a cover

for the internal wall finishes of that mosque. As we known, Ubudiah Mosque as a Sultan

Azlan Shah Mosque. So, it has to make sure the mosque look beutiful.

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Tools and Materials

1) Awl 

2) Carpet of choice (sized for your job) 

3) Carpet knife

4) Carpet padding 

5) Chalk line

6) Duct tape 

7) Gripper edge 

8) Hammer

9) Heavy scissors

10) Knee kicker (rented from carpet manufacturer) 

11) Masonry nails 

12) Measuring tape 

13) Power stretcher (rented from carpet manufacturer)

14) Rolling pin

15) Row cutter 

16) Safety glasses

17) Saw or shears 

18) Seaming iron (rented from carpet manufacturer)

19) Seaming tape

20) Stair tool 

21) Staple gun 

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22) Strip cutter

23) Tackless strip 

24) Trimmer 

25) Utility knife

26) Wall trimmer

27) Work gloves 

Installation Of Carpet

Prepare the Floor 

Before you install your new carpet, you need to prep your floors. Begin the floor

preparation by cleaning your surface area. 

This means if you are laying carpet down on wooden

floors or removing old carpet to install a new one, you should

sweep and/or vacuum the area well to ensure that the area is free

of dirt and debris. If you are installing carpet directly over

concrete, however, it is extra important that the installation area

is as dry as possible, and that it will not be subject to excess moisture, which can ruin your

new carpet. So bottom line: in order for the new carpet to be laid correctly, you must have the

installation area dry and as flat as possible. 

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More about prep work

Now that your area is prepped, use your pry bar to remove the old carpet from the

tackless strip. Fold up the old carpet and move it out of the room. But don’t get rid of the

tackless strip or the carpet pad underneath the old carpet. If the tackless strip and carpet pad

are still in good shape, you can reuse them. 

The Carpet Padding 

Your carpet padding is just as important as the carpet itself. Why? Because a good

carpet pad creates a good cushioned layer underfoot, but a

great carpet pad will create a resilient cushioned layer

underfoot, provide good insulation from cold, help noise

reduction, and prolong the life of your carpet. 

Padding is sold in a variety of thicknesses, densities

and weights to provide the right feel and to protect the carpet from premature wear. Always

use a quality backing but remember that thicker is not always better. For example, you should

not use carpet padding thicker than 3/8 inch in heavy traffic areas, including on your steps and

in your hallways. 

Make sure the carpet pads you use in these areas are dense and heavy but not too thick

or lightweight. Anything too lightweight will flex too much underfoot and this can be

dangerous. To avoid purchasing the wrong carpet pad, test out the carpet you plan to install by

going to a showroom and walking across your carpet sample with different padding samples

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underneath. This will help you get a realistic feel for what your carpet will feel like before

you purchase it. 

Step-by-Step Guide To Installing Carpet

Caution: To protect your hands, be sure you always wear heavy work gloves or leather

gloves and safety glasses when installing or handling the tackless strips. 

Step 1: Installing The Tackless Strips!

Cut your tackless strip using a saw or sears so there is a strip to fit the length of each

wall. Starting in the corner of the room, use at least two masonry nails per tackless strip to

nail the tackless strips down around the room. Make sure you leave a 2/3” gap between the

tackless strip and wall for your carpet and padding. 

Note: you have successfully nailed strips around the entire room when the strips unite

at the corners and the “sharp raised teeth” in each strip used to hold the carpet in place are

facing the wall. If you are installing carpet over concrete, you can nail the tackless strips right

into the concrete subfloor. To install new carpet over tile flooring, remove the tiles where you

are nailing the tackless strips. 

Step 2: Install Carpet Padding 

Cut the carpet padding into strips. Each strip needs to be long enough to fit the

perimeter of the room. Each strip should also cover every tackless strip along each wall. With

the waffle side of the padding facing up, use your staple gun to put in staples along the edges

of the carpet padding every six inches. If you are installing carpet padding over concrete, you

need to affix the padding to the floor with adhesive. Do this by applying carpet pad adhesive

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around the pad ends and letting it dry. 

Your carpet padding seams should not overlap. To make sure the seams do not

overlap, butt the strips of padding against each other to create one smooth seam then tape the

pieces together. Cut and tape (with duct tape) all the padding until your entire floor is

covered. In order for your carpet edges to fit neatly under your room’s baseboards, you need

to allow about a 1/2" gap between the strip and the wall when installing the padding. Trim any

excess padding with your utility knife. 

Step 3: Measure, Cut and Lay the Carpet 

Measure the length and width of your room. Then take your utility knife and cut the

carpet (turn it face down when cutting) from the backside approximately 5 to 6 inches longer

than your room’s dimensions. Trim the carpet’s excess. To do so, lay each carpet piece over

each other so that they match up at the edges. It is important to cut the carpet in the same

direction the pile is facing. This goes for how to lay the carpet as well—in the direction of its

pile. 

Step 4: Cut the Carpet Seam 

Match up the edges of the carpet allowing approximately 2 inches of extra carpet at the

base of the wall. Mark a chalk line on the underside of the excess carpet edge and cut a clean,

even seam line. Then take the top piece and fold it over the bottom piece. This will be your

guide to cutting a clean, even seam on the bottom piece this time. 

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Step 5: Cut a length of seaming tape and center it under the seam. 

To make the seams, cut a piece of hot-melt seaming tape to length. The adhesive side

of the tape should be facing up. Center the tape under the carpet seam and butt them up

against each other. Use a seaming iron (carpet iron) to heat the adhesive tape by slowly

passing the iron down over the tape. As the adhesive melts, pinch the carpet pieces together

over the tape. Then take your rolling pin and go over the seam to get it as smooth as possible. 

Step 6: Affix the Carpet 

Use the stair tool (knee kicker) to affix the carpet in the corner first. Dig the teeth of

the stair tool into the carpet about 1 inch from the wall, give a swift kick of your knee into the

cushioned end of the stair stool and hook the carpet to the tackless strip. 

Step 7: Use the Power Stretcher to Attach the Carpet 

Now that the corner is hooked, you are going to take your carpet stretcher and pull the

carpet at the opposite side of the room. Here’s how: 

1. You place the base of your power stretcher at the wall, but use a leftover piece of carpet

behind it to pad the wall. 

2. Insert the head of the power stretcher about six inches from the wall and have the foot of

the power stretcher rest against the wall. 

3. Now dig the (head) teeth into the carpet, press down on the lever, and lock the stretcher into

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place. 

4. Stretch the carpet by pulling the carpet toward the other wall’s tackless strip. 

5. Use your stair tool to attach the carpet to the tackless strip. 

Continue stretching the carpet’s edges until they are attached to all the tackless trips in your

room. 

Step 8: Trimming the Excess 

Adjust the wall trimmer to the carpet thickness and cut away any excess carpet along

each wall. Trim the last few inches with a sharp utility knife. 

Step 9: Tidying the Edges 

Take your stair tool and tuck the edges of the carpet between the wall and the tackless

strips, right under the baseboards. 

Step 10: Secure the Carpet in Place 

Turn your attention to the piece of carpet under the doorway. Trim the excess carpet.

Now nail a metal strip over the carpet’s edges to secure the carpet into place. Or install a

gripper edge. 

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Step 11: It’s installed

Now that the carpet is installed, take your seam roller and run it along the seam. This will

help the nap of the carpet pieces blend together so that the pieces look like one seamless

piece of carpet. 

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Type : Timber wall finishes

Definition : Timber is used as a major structural material in a great variety of building and civil

engineering applications

It is built up by a skeleton of timber joist and studs, covered with

a panels fastened to the wood elements.

Advantages

i. Fast construction

Off –site prefabrication allows erection of building

faster.

The dry construction is fast and there is no need to

wait for wet trades to dry out.

ii. Environmental performance

Timber is natural and renewable material

iii. Strength and stability

Strength varies according to density of timber and

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defects in timber such as knots, shakes, wane and

slope of the grain. Stability depends on a stable

foundation on which a stable structure can be

constructed.

Disadvantages

i. Low fire resistance

Timber is a combustible material

Fire stop must be considered in design

ii. High cost

Cost for high quality timber is very expensive since the supply for good timber is very

limited.

iii. Less design flexibility

Design is limited and not flexible

Suitability and selection

The construction of timber structure is clean and dry operation. So, it is not difficult

when we use it. The building is using timber as it finishes because it can be cut and assembled

with simple hand tool, so it will reduces the cost to buy the equipment for cutting it. Timber

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also has its aesthetic value, as the gallery are visited by many countries. Besides that, it will

blends well with natural surroundings. Timber also can be recycle so it will cut off the budget.

Timber also is durable, it can be exposed to weather, it does not have to finish it with external

finishes it only needed vanish and paint.

Installation of timber wall

First, Mark the base of the retaining wall with wooden stakes and string. Dig a ditch

along the string marker and make it half again as wide as the timbers. Adjust the top of

the string to half the thickness of the landscape timber above the ground. Dig the ditch

deep enough equal the depth of a landscape timber plus 3 inches.

Second, Tamp the bottom of the trench with the tamping weight. Fill the trench with

gravel deep enough that a timber resting on the gravel comes to the level of the string

at the top. Lay the first course of timbers in the ditch. Trim the length of the timbers

and paint with wood sealer to prevent the timber from soaking up water.

Third, Drill through the timbers 4 inches from either end and at the center. Drive the

4-foot rebar sections through the holes in the timbers into the ground, pinning the first

course of timbers into the ground. Level the tops of the timbers.

Fourth, Drill holes in the appropriate places and lay the second row of timbers on top

of the first. Be sure to stagger the position of the end joints by 4 feet or more so that

the seams do not line up vertically. When the second row is in place, drill and drive

the landscape screws through the timbers every 3 or 4 feet. Use the impact driver.

Next, Pour gravel behind the first two courses between the timbers and the high side

the wall will protect. Lay the perforated pipe on top of the gravel with the ends

extending beyond the, end of the retaining wall. Cover the drain pipe with more gravel

and continue filling in behind the timber courses as you build.

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After that, Build a T-shaped tie-back with 2-foot-long pieces of timber. Dig a T-

shaped hole into the hill behind the retaining wall large enough for the upper part of

the tie-back and screw the bottom of the T into the back of the retaining wall. Pack dirt

around the upper part of the T. Add more tie-backs every six to eight feet along the

wall about halfway up the back.

Lastly, Add more courses till the wall is as tall as you want it to be. Screw the courses

together with landscape screws. Finish by pouring pine bark mulch around the base of

the retaining wall to a depth of 3 or 4 inches.

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CEILING FINISHES

Type : Plaster of Paris ceiling

Defination : Plaster is a building material similar to mortar or cement. Like those materials,

plaster starts as a dry powder that is mixed with

water to form a paste which liberates heat and

then hardens. Unlike mortar and cement,

plaster remains quite soft after setting, and can

be easily manipulated with metal tools or

even sandpaper. These characteristics make

plaster suitable for a finishing, rather than a

load-bearing material.

The term plaster can refer to gypsum plaster (also known as plaster of Paris), lime plaster,

or cement plaster.

Advantages

i. Appearence

Creative look like and aesthethic.

ii. No appreciable chemical action

do not has to applied paint.

iii. Durability

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Fire resistance

Disadvantages

i. Labor cost

Labor cost for applying plaster of Paris is high.

ii. Places to applied

Just for internal finishes

Suitability and selection

The construction of plaster of paris is complicated and need much of labor. Besides

that, it has a creative look like and aesthetic. Moreover, it also have long-lasting durability

because of it material that fire resistance.

Tools and materials

trowels

hammers

utility knives

laths

 nails lime

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sand

hair

plaster of Paris

cements

color washes

modern materials

 polycarbonate

Installation of POP ceiling

Surface Preparation: 

Cast or mold must be thoroughly clean and dry.  Surface need not be coated, plaster of paris unmolds

very easily.  Mold should be ready to fill, as plaster of paris sets very quickly.  When used to fill a

small crack in plaster surfaces, make certain all surfaces are clean and free from dirt, grease and loose

particles of paint and plaster.  Dig out some of the old plaster around the crack to allow the plaster of

paris a chance to bond.  Wet the old plaster thoroughly before filling the crack.

Mixing: 

Add plaster of paris slowly to clean water and mix to a pourable batter like consistency.  Do not mix

more material than can be used in 5 minutes.  If the mix begins to harden before it has been used,

discard it and mix a new batch.  Never try to moisten material that has begun to set.  Plaster of paris

can be tinted with rainbow cement colour to produce casts of any color.  Always dry mix plaster of

paris and rainbow cement colour before adding to water.

Placement: 

Pour plaster of paris into the mold while tapping the mold slightly so that no voids are formed.  

Overfill mold slightly and level off with a smooth straight edged tool such as a trowel or putty knife. 

When used to patch small cracks in plaster surfaces, use a putty knife or broad scraping knife to apply

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the plaster of paris.  Spread the material evenly and keep free from runs, sags and other blemishes. 

Fill all voids and imperfections and match existing surfaces in texture and finish.  Final trowel after

surface has become firm, holding trowel flat and using water sparingly.  Do not over trowel.

Curing: 

Plaster of paris is self-curing.  Allow cast to dry for 1 hour before removing mold.

Coverage: 

1 pound of plaster of paris will yield approximately 17 cubic inches.

Packaging: 

Available in 1 pound boxes with sealed plastic bags (12 per carton), 5 pound boxes with sealed plastic

bags (10 per carton), 10 pound boxes (6 per carton) and 25 pound multiwall paper bags with moisture

barrier.

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Types : Tin ceiling finishing

Definition : The identity and appearance of tin tiles can often depend on the stamping process

of ceiling tin tiles. This process is what separates tin

tiles from any other types of ceiling or wall

treatments. It makes tin tiles one of the most unique

decorating treatments you can select. The tile gets its

embossed or indented look and feel from the type of

pattern that is "stamped" into the metal, and it's three

dimensional qualities often depend on the thickness

of the tin and the indention depth of the stamped

pattern. The way shadows appear or reflected often

depend on the pattern chosen, and can give the

appearance of a multitude of colors. With so many patterns to choose from, ceilings or walls

can take on a different look based on pattern selections.

Advantages

i. Beautiful

The most popular type of ceiling tile available is constructed of tin. Original tin tiles

have a long history in North America, and there is now a collectors’ market for some

of the classic tin tiles that were created long ago. While tin tiles create an

extraordinary compliment to any space, there are also a number of other options to

consider that are much less costly.

ii. The Cost-Effective Alternative

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Faux or fake tin ceiling tiles are sweeping through the market. They provide the same

warm, inviting charm as a traditional tin tile at a fraction of the cost. Fake tin ceiling

tiles can also be applied to a number of different surfaces to dramatically enhance the

look of your ceilings or walls. While fake tin ceiling tiles are typically used on

ceilings, it is also possible to apply them to walls for decorative effect. Fake tin ceiling

tiles are often used to create photographic backdrops or other visual effects.

Disadvantages

i. Expensive

The materials, how to produce.

ii. Cost

Labor cost for applying plaster of Paris is high.

Suitability and selection

According to the advantages of this finishes, we has known that, thin tin ceiling

finishes is beutiful and suitable to the building that it has construct.

Installation of Tin ceiling

Installing a tin ceiling use to be an arduous task. It required a wood substrate which the tin

panels would be nailed to. Panel by panel,the tin was nailed to the wood material. The 21st century

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brought innovation to this old world ceiling material with a new demand in North America. An

interlocking tin panel flange system was created. This system allowed the installer flexibility in

materials that were required for the installation of a tin ceiling. This new patented invention allows

homeowners to easily screw the panel into drywall, plaster, wood and other ceiling substrates. It will

give the look of a tin ceiling , but will lack the overall fit and finish quality of the traditional nail-ups.

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Conclusion

As a conclusion, finishes is the most important thing to install to our building because

finishes can protect it. Without finishes our building would look like incomplete. It also will

increase the rate of maintenance of the building.

If we want to install the certain type of finishes to the certain type of surfaces we have

to know the suitability of the finishes.

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References

http://www.google.com.my/

#sclient=psy&hl=en&biw=1366&bih=667&source=hp&q=tools+and+materials+of+tin+ceiling

+&pbx=1&oq=tools+and+materials+of+tin+ceiling+&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=130

1206l1312040l3l1313210l20l17l1l0l0l5l2957l13553l6-1.9-5l6l0&fp=b2db7a54f2388a58

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Tin_ceiling

http://www.google.com.my/

#sclient=psy&hl=en&biw=1366&bih=667&source=hp&q=insttallation+tools+for+carpet&pbx

=1&oq=insttallation+tools+for+carpet&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=8950l24625l0l25

008l32l28l0l0l0l0l3531l11654l6-4.1.0.2l7l0&fp=b2db7a54f2388a58

http://www.tools4flooring.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terrazzo

http://www.google.com.my/

#sclient=psy&hl=en&biw=1366&bih=667&source=hp&q=insttallation+tools+for+parquet&pb

x=1&oq=insttallation+tools+for+parquet&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=94986l100025l

1l100849l13l13l0l0l0l0l1630l1630l8-1l1l0&fp=b2db7a54f2388a58

http://www.romus.fr/

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/parquetfloorcheck

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/parquetfloorcheck

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