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ANTOINETTE'S WINE & DINE: SPRING

SPRING HASSPRUNG!

SWANSEA ON A PLATE: SWANSEA MARKETCHRIS KEENAN: THE FRESHEST OF FISH

ISSUE 5: SPRING 2016

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WELCOMEAfter what seems to have been eight months of torrential rain and wintercolds, spring is finally here! And while we're not quite at al frescotemperatures yet, the weather is certainly getting better, and menus arechanging to include fresher, lighter dishes (although I'm sure you can stillfind a few hearty stews around – this is Wales after all!).

And with the sunnier weather and endless daffodils comes this brand newspring edition of Taste Swansea, which is our biggest issue ever! We'vemanaged to cram in even more foodie news, reviews and opinion thanever before. This is mainly thanks to our expert contributors, including ourresident innovation chef David Llewellyn, who gives us a delicious look atin-season spring ingredients and how best to combine them (page 11).

We also have a double page feature from Chris Keenan, executive chef atthe Ship Inn, who runs us through his latest trip to the fish stalls ofSwansea Market and then shares three recipes on how to cook his catch(page 16). And Gigi Gao from the Favourite Authentic Chinese looks at thewonderful ingredient DouFu – or 'tofu' as it's better known in Britain – aswell as its history and uses (page 9).

To wash it all down? We have a new columnist – expert wine teacherAntoinette Milne, who pairs four great wines with local spring ingredients(page 34). And head brewer at the Mumbles Brewery, Rob Turner, returnsto share his ale expertise, rounding up some of his newest brews (page33).

Meanwhile I take a look at Swansea Market in a new regular feature (page26), and also walk up an appetite with Swansea Ramblers, who helped uspair Gower walks with four excellent eateries (page 14).

And don't forget our regular features like Life in the Kitchen, Foodie News,Local Produce Markets, and more! Remember, we love to hear frombusinesses and readers alike – send your suggestions for features,competitions and recipes to info@tasteswansea.com.

Until next time, buon appetito!

Chris CarraEditor

Taste Swansea Magazine

Spring 2016

PublisherTaste Swansea Magazine

General Enquires &Advertising

info@tasteswansea.com

EditorChris Carra

DesignSteve Homer

TasteSwansea.com

Twitter:@Taste_Swansea

Facebook:facebook.com/TasteSwansea

DisclaimerAll effort has been taken to ensure thatthe information contained in thismagazine is accurate at the time ofpublication. However Taste SwanseaMagazine accepts no responsibility forthe consequences of errors oromissions. All text, artwork andphotographs submitted for publicationwithin this magazine are accepted onthe understanding that priorpermission has been sought by thesubscriber where relevant. Opinionsexpressed in the magazine are notnecessarily those of the publisher,editor or designer and the magazine isin no way liable for such opinions. Nopart of this publication may bereproduced without written permissionof the publisher.

CONTRIBUTORANTOINETTE MILNE

CONTRIBUTORGIGI GAO

CONTRIBUTORDAVID LLEWELLYN

CONTRIBUTORCHRIS KEENAN

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CONTRIBUTORSTEVE HOMER

CONTRIBUTORROB TURNER

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FOODIE NEWSCOFFEE BY THE PARK

A brand new coffee house is opening onBrynmill Lane, by the pelican crossing at theentrance to both Brynmill and Singleton Parks.But after speaking to owners Ceri Pope andMemphis-born Rick Miller, I found out thatBrynmill Coffee House is much more than asimple café. In addition to good coffee, greatservice, and a relaxed atmosphere, they willoffer a range of home-made authenticMemphis lunch specials, including traditionalAmerican grills, Mexican dishes, and a deliciouswhite bean chicken chilli. The coffee house –which opens on 18 April – is certain to appealto both students, local residents and Swanseafoodies, looking to try something new.

GRAZING ATSOSBANLlanelli's famous fine-dining experienceSosban are now offering a brand new grillmenu alongside their renown a la carteand set menus. The 'grazing menu'features an assortment of burgers andplatters at wallet-friendly prices (think aburger and fries for under a tenner), whichis great news for the casual diner. There'salso been a little change to the layout, withsome new sofas and relaxed seating areasdotted around the grand industrialbuilding.

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Gowerton – known as the 'gateway to Gower'.And if one pub guards those gates it's certainlythe Welcome to Gower, which changed handsback in October last year. The new team,headed by landlord Robert Edwards, have donea great job in upping the quality and variety offood on the menu. They now offer a large a lacarte menu – with everything from grills tocurries – as well as a special Italian menudeveloped by head chef Steve Cook. The familypub is also very popular when it comes to livesport, pub quizzes and live bands.

WELCOME TO GOWER

If your interest in wine is more than justuncorking a bottle and hoping for the best,you'll be interested to hear about winequalifications, run by Taste Swansea's newestcolumnist and international wine expert,Antoinette Milne. The WSET Level 1 Award inWines will give a basic introduction to wine,followed by some basic food and wine pairings.Courses are run in Swansea regularly, with thenext one taking place over three days on April 4,5 and 11 at the lovely Café TwoCann. The coursecosts £149.00 and includes a buffet andqualification – bargain! Further details can befound at wineforlifelearning.co.uk.

KNOW YOUR WINE

CONGRATULATIONS!Taste Swansea

columnist and award-

winning executive chef

Chris Keenan is

celebrating his first

anniversary at The Ship

Inn with the launch of a

new Gower-inspired menu. The new menu is

full of tasty local dishes such as a Gower

fishcake with leek and laverbread, and seafood

chowder loaded with fresh fish and seafood.

Chris said, 'Cooking is immensely artistic and

rewarding, and it’s wonderful to start a menu

from scratch, and experiment with different

ingredients and recipes. We have some

interesting ideas this year, including a few

'around the world' cruise inspired evenings, to

which I'm really looking forward.'

WHAT'S NEW?

If you have any foodie news for

the next issue we'd love to include it - please

email details to info@tasteswansea.com

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From May, the award-winning Roma FishBar in Penclawdd will be bringing backtheir famous deep-fried cockles. The veryseasonal and very local delicacy is onlyavailable from the popular Penclawdd fishbar from May to September each year. Getdown there and give them a go!

This spring, one of Swansea's favouritepop-up kitchens, Malabar Aaanaa, returnto their usual spot in Noah's Yard, Uplandswith both their Keralan and Persiankitchens. The pop-up dates are as follows:6 April (Persian), 13 April (Keralan), 4 May(Persian), 11 May (Keralan), 25 May(Keralan).

POP-UP DELIGHTS

RETURN OF ROMA COCKLES

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frozen. In Chinese traditional medicine, DouFu issuitable for those who are weak, malnourished,and deficient in blood and qi. And if you aredrinking liquor, DouFu is a great accompaniment,as it contains cysteine, which can speed up thedetoxification of alcohol in the body, and lessenthe harm done to the liver.

DouFu dishes are very common, typicaland popular in China. At The Favourite, where weoffer real and authentic Chinese cuisine, theDouFu dishes we serve mainly use soft and silkentofu. Our DouFu dishes are: Bean Curd Salad,DouFu and Century Eggs, Seafood and DouFu inClay Pot, Home Style DouFu, Hot Spicy DouFu,Hot Spicy Bean Curd, Gong Bao DouFu (highly-recommended by Taste Swansea's editor Chris),and Silky Egg DouFu on Sizzling Platter.

Allergies: Because DouFu is made of soy, individualswith allergies to legumes should not consume it.

ouFu is a very common food in China.However in the UK, everywhere you look, itis known as Tofu. Like many foods, Tofu is

a Cantonese word, while in Mandarin it is calledDouFu (which is what I shall call it in this article!).

DouFu originated about 2,000 years ago in China,during the Han dynasty. It was invented by PrinceLiu An (179-122 BC). As a green healthyfood, its worldwide growth probablycoincided with the spread ofBuddhism, because it is an importantsource of protein and has a lowcalorie count, also high in iron – soperfect for the vegetarian diet ofEast Asian Buddhism.

Li ShiZhen in the Ming Dynasty described amethod of making DouFu in the Compendium ofMateria Medica, as it can have high calcium andmagnesium content. There's a well-known storyabout a very beautiful lady who is a DouFumaker. She is pretty because she eats DouFueveryday, therefore she was given a name of'DouFu Queen'.

DouFu is made by coagulating soy milk and thenpressing the resulting curds into soft whiteblocks. It can be made to be soft, firm, or extrafirm. There are many different varieties of DouFu,including fresh DouFu and DouFu that has beenprocessed in some way – like deep fried or

In this month's Great Foods of China, GIGI GAO – owner of The FavouriteAuthentic Chinese on Brynymor Road – explores the delicious but sometimesunderrated (especially among meat-eaters) staple of Chinese cuisine, Tofu.

THE GREAT FOODSOF CHINA: TOFU

BY GIGI GAO

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I love spring because itdelivers a multitude offantastic produce to reallyexcite food lovers. As the daysbegin to stretch out, we canput away the casserole dishes,pour ourselves a cold glass ofwine and look forward to afresh, lighter approach toeating – but one still packedwith huge flavour.

In this issue, I take ingredientsthat are all perfect at this timeof year and bring themtogether to form one mouth-watering complete meal that issure to put a smile on yourface.

May signifies the arrival ofBritish asparagus and, inSwansea and Gower, those ofus with a strong back are luckyenough to be able to pick it forourselves. Although we areused to being able to eatasparagus all year round,British is certainly the best andthe season is short – so get itwhile you can!

The weather is getting better, the big jumpers are being put in thecupboard, and the asparagus is tasty again... That must mean spring isfinally here! To celebrate, Taste Swansea's innovation and developmentchef DAVID LLEWELLYN rounds up his favourite in-season foods, andhow to bring out the best in them.

SSPPRRIINNGG HHAASSSSPPRRUUNNGG

Simply boiled or steamed it'sfantastic, but I love themrubbed in olive oil, seasonedwith coarse salt and put on asearing-hot griddle pan. Turnonce when they are charredon one side and cook for a fewminutes until tender.

Charring really intensifies theirflavour and transforms thisstunning vegetable. Romescosauce is a perfectaccompaniment. Smear agenerous amount of sauce ona platter, pile on the charredasparagus, and finish with asprinkle of toasted hazelnutsand a good drizzle of balsamicvinegar. This is also a brilliantway to treat broccoli, andpurple sprouting is beautifulright now.

It would not be spring withouttwo things – lamb and Jerseyroyals. Lamb shoulder for meis king and it requires just alittle bit of attention and plentyof time to put your feet up.

Simply set the oven to 150C;slice a white onion into aroasting tin; add some herbs,fresh bay leaf, rosemary, thyme(or whatever you can get yourhands on), and a few cloves ofbashed garlic, then cover withfoil. Put this in for around fourhours.

Remove the foil towards theend of cooking to colour themeat and continue until it fallsapart and can be cut with aspoon! For the potatoes, againI prefer an honest approachwhere the veg shines. Boil insalted water until tender, thentoss with some olive oil, saltand pepper, fresh parsley andmint. Or to make it even morespecial add some crispy baconand fresh, local blanchedsamphire.

These three dishes are a trueshowcase, not only to springbut to our beautiful landscapethat has helped forge them.

BY DAVID LLEWELLYN

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SSWWAANNSSEEAA BBAAYY GGOOOODD FFOOOODD CCIIRRCCLLEE::

Restaurants / Bistros / Cafés / Tea Rooms...Three Cliffs Coffee - www.threescliffs.co.uk

Fairyhill - www.fairyhill.netCafe TwoCann - www.Cafetwocann.com

Britannia Inn - www.britanniainngower.co.ukCariad Cafe - www.cariadcafe.com

Gower Heritage Centre - www.gowerheritagecentre.co.ukMorgans Hotel - www.morganshotel.co.uk

The Kinder Cafe - www.thekindercafe.co.ukWelcome to Town - www.welcometotown.co.uk

Le Petit Bulle - www.lepetitbulle.co.ukGarbo’s Cafe Bar - www.garboscafebar.co.uk

Dylan Thomas Birth Place - www.dylanthomasbirthplace.com360 Cafe - www.360swansea.co.uk

Bay Bistro - www.thebaybistro.co.ukGower Wildflower Cafe - www.gowerwildflowers.co.uk

Growers and Producers...Cae Tan - www.gowerpower.coop/caetan/

Gower Salt Marsh Lamb - www.gowersaltmarshlamb.co.ukGower Heritage Centre - www.gowerheritagecentre.co.uk

Tuckers Butchers, PenclawddEstelle’s Gower Goodies - www.estellesgowergoodies.co.uk

Gluten Free Baking Company – www.thegluten-freebaking.comJL Occasional Cakes - www.jloccasionalcakes.co.uk

Ty Sirol Pork Welsh Pork – www.welshpork.co.ukGower Sea Salt / Halen Gwyr

Members of Swansea Bay GOOD Food Circle work together todeliver a good food destination; taking pride in offering fresh,

seasonal, local produce – SwanseaBayFoodCircle.co.uk

CHAMPIONS OF LOCAL PRODUCE

If you would like to join the Swansea Bay GOODFood Circle, give us a call on 01792 403339 and

a member of the team will contact you.

Make sure to check out our members‘Championing Local Produce..!'

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DATES FOR THE DIARYMARINA MARKET

SUN 10 APRIL, SUN 8 MAY

UPLANDS MARKETSAT 30 APRIL, SAT 28 MAY

MUMBLES LOCAL PRODUCE MARKETSAT 9 APRIL, SAT 14 MAY

SKETTY LOCAL PRODUCE MARKETSAT 2 APRIL, SAT 7 MAY

@ BISHOP GORE SCHOOL

MOSAIC UNDERCOVER MARKETSUN 3 APRIL

@MOSAIC, ST HELEN'S ROAD

PENCLAWDD LOCAL PRODUCE MARKETSAT 16 APRIL, SAT 21 MAY

PENNARD LOCAL PRODUCE MARKETSUN 10 APRIL, SUN 8 MAY

@ PENNARD COMMUNITY HALL

PONTYATES LOCAL PRODUCE MARKETSAT 16 APRIL, SAT 21 MAY

@ PONTYATES WELFARE HALL

PONTYBEREM LOCAL PRODUCE MARKETSAT 9 APRIL, SAT 14 MAY@ PONTYBEREM HALL

MARKETSAs we finally ditch winter, we should at last startseeing some decent weather – which is great news forthe excellent outdoor local produce markets we havein Swansea, Gower and Llanelli.

And this spring, our favourite markets will once againbe serving up your favourite foodie treats – whetherthat's beer from Mumbles Brewery, burgers fromNothing But…, or cupcakes from the Raspberry Cakery.

We also have a new addition to the line-up – onewhich operates in any weather – the MosaicUndercover Market. This was held at the St Helen'sRoad restaurant for the first time in March and was agreat success. The Mosaic markets will include bothcrafts and food produce, including cakes, biscuits, anda deli and vegan selection.

The following are correct as far as we know, although allare subject to change. Contact the marketorganisers directly for more information.

LLOOCCAALL PPRROODDUUCCEE

Are we missing any? Let us know!Email info@tasteswansea.com

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WALKING UP AN APPETITEWith sweeping views, endless moors and plenty of beautiful wildlife, Gower is the perfect place to go for awalk. But a walk is only as good as the food you enjoy after it. So, in collaboration with the walking enthusiastsat Swansea Ramblers, we have come up with four fantastic Gower walk/restaurant pairings.

Fairyhill - Cefn Bryn CircularAt eight miles this is a good leg stretcher, which starts on the top ofCefn Bryn – the backbone of Gower, with good all round views. Theroute – on which there are a couple of awkward styles and muddypatches – takes in some of the lesser known parts of Gower, awayfrom the madding crowd, with a mixture of farmland and commons.It should take about four hours, in which time you'll have built up anexceptional appetite.

And what better way to reward yourself than by a trip to Fairyhill,which is just off the route and worth walking eight miles to get to by itself. While it's probably wise to bring achange of shoes, lunch in their gorgeous gardens will replenish even the most tired of soles, and souls. With alocally-sourced three-course lunch for £25, it's certain to appeal to any budget. Booking is advisable.tinyurl.com/zp86blk

The King's Head - Rhossili DownStarting at Hillend caravan site in Llangennith, there's an easy three-mile walk along the spectacular Rhossili Bay beach towards Rhossili. You can then return along the WalesCoast Path, which runs just above the beach past the Old Rectory, now owned by the National Trust. If you likemore of a challenge then climb steeply onto Rhossili Down from Rhossili village, before dropping back down tothe caravan site (this is around five miles). The easy route will take about two hours, while the more strenuousone will take about three hours.

Back in Llangennith you'll find The King's Head, which is a rustic pub that serves excellent bistro-style specials,as well as hearty pub classics like home-made pies, and fish and chips – all prepared with great skill and servedwith a smile. There's also a lovely real ale selection to wash it all down with. And if you've done the strenuousroute, award yourself another pint. tinyurl.com/jdp6eyv

SwanseaRamblers.org.uk is an excellent online resource for Gower walks, andincludes all the information, maps and history you'll need to enjoy your walks.14

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The Britannia Inn - Llanmadoc DownOn this three mile walk there are some splendid panoramic views of Gower and Carmarthen Bay as well as animpressive hill fort. There's one long gentle climb to the top on a broad path, followed by a ridge walk and agentle descent the other end. It should take about two hours to complete.

Nearby, down a winding road with superb views of the estuary, you'll find The Britannia Inn in Llanmadoc –known as 'Gower's best kept secret'. Talented head chef Martin Davies serves up some wonderful rusticdishes, made using fresh local produce. The pub itself is split into the casual bar area – which has justundergone a beautiful makeover – and a more formal restaurant area, along with a large beer garden which isperfect for a few post-walk pints! tinyurl.com/jjk96u6

The Ship Inn - Port Eynon PointThis is a short two-mile walk with a gradual climb and one short steepdescent. From the Point, there are good views of Port Eynon Bay andthe south Gower coast and cliffs. Before climbing up you can make adetour to see the remains of the 17th century Salthouse. The routealso includes the hamlet of Overton, and should take about an hourand a half to complete (a bit longer if you visit the Salthouse).

After the brisk seaside walk, head to The Ship Inn, which offers awarm and cosy atmosphere, friendly and attentive service, and – most importantly – delicious, fresh gastro-pub food with plenty of local produce, lovingly prepared by Taste Swansea's columnist Chris Keenan.tinyurl.com/h9j9gcr

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EXECUTIVE CHEF CHRIS KEENAN:

As I recently strolled around the stalls of SwanseaMarket, I chanced upon a couple of beautiful lemonsole. They were very fresh with bright eyes, firm to thetouch and had a wonderful smell of the sea.

They were caught on a day boat, which are the prettylittle fishing boats you see bobbing up and down onthe water. As the name suggests, they are out for nolonger than 24 hours, catching small quantities of fishand landing them back at the market in peakcondition and just about as fresh as the moment theywere caught.

The greatest benefit of buying fish off these little boatsis the extended shelf life offered to the fishmonger,hotel and restaurant. They may be a little moreexpensive, but you expect to pay a premium forquality.

Also within the dazzling display of fresh fish andshellfish I fancied some fillets of Gurnard - a verymeaty and tasty fish with a firm texture. Not so longago, fishermen were using these as bait for lobsters.These days however, they command a decent pricefor themselves as they have become more and moreappreciated by chefs up and down the country.

The last thing to catch my eye was a group of seabream, which are fresh, shiny skinned, and brighteyed. An incredibly versatile fish – steamed, fried,grilled or baked, this fish can handle it. Now, with mycatch in my hands, its time to get back to my kitchen.

Chris Keenan is an award-winning Michelin starchef, a published author, food writer, and a TVand radio broadcaster. He is currently engaged asExecutive Chef at The Ship Inn, Port Eynon. Chriscan be contacted at:chris@chriskeenanfood.co.uk

THE FRESHEST OF FISH

IngredientsFor the sole25g/1oz butter1 tbsp. olive oil2 whole small lemon sole, dark skin removedSalt and freshly ground black pepperFor the lemon butter sauce55ml/2fl oz white wine100ml/3½fl oz double cream50g/1¾oz butter½ lemon, juice only1 tbsp. chopped fresh chives

What to doFor the sole, heat the butter and oil in a frying pan.Season the fish with salt and black pepper on bothsides, then place them into the hot pan. Cook for 3-4minutes on each side, or until cooked through.For the lemon butter sauce, place the white wine into asaucepan over a medium heat and simmer untilreduced by half. Add the double cream and butter tothe pan and simmer until thickened. Stir in the lemonjuice and remove from the heat. Now place the wholesole onto plates with the sauce poured over and thechives sprinkled on top. This dish is lovely served withbuttered new potatoes or – better still – crushed newpotatoes, with a little crème fraiche and choppedfresh watercress stirred in.

WHOLE LEMON SOLE WITH A LEMON BUTTER

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Ingredients4 fillets of Gurnard, 6-7 oz eachA drizzle of oil for cooking1 small onion diced4 fat cloves of garlic, crushedA small head of broccoli cut intoflorets1 courgette diced1 red pepper diced4 small medium-sized tomatoes,choppedA handful of mange tout, cut in halfdiagonallyA teaspoon of ground gingerA pinch of garam masalaA tablespoon of mild curry powder2 small cans of coconut milkA generous handful of baby spinachleavesA dash of fresh lime juiceSalt and pepper

What to doHeat the oil in a suitably sized saucepan. Stir in theonion, garlic, pepper, courgette, broccoli and cooktogether as you stir. Now add the dry ingredients,curry powder, ground ginger, and a pinch of garammasala. Cook the spices and vegetables together forat least 5 minutes, not allowing them to colour at all.Next add the chopped tomatoes and stir these intothe spices until they begin to break down, pour in yourcoconut milk, season and simmer for about 10minutes. Finally add the mange tout and stir in thebaby spinach leaves, and a dash of fresh lime juice.That’s your curry done – time to cook the fish!

Heat a little oil in an oven-proof frying or sauté pan.Lightly season the fish fillets with salt and pepper.Place the fish in the hot pan, skin side down. Makesure the pan is sizzling nicely at this point so you get anice crisp skin. Turn the fish over to seal the otherside then get it straight into the oven. Roast for about10 minutes or until the fish is cooked through and isfirm to the touch. Set the fish onto plates, serve withthe curry sauce and basmati rice, or for a littleauthenticity serve everything on a piece of bananaleaf, with a wedge of lime and fresh coriander.

ROAST FILLET OF GURNARD WITH A COCONUTVEGETABLE CURRY

IngredientsFor the breamA little oil and a small knob of butter for cooking2 whole bream, (if you prefer, your fishmonger wouldfillet them for you)

A little salt and pepperFor the tomato salsaA drizzle of olive oil200g chopped fresh tomatoes50g of finely chopped onions1 small clove of crushed garlicA few basil leavesA couple of lemon wedgesA pinch of caster sugar

What to doHeat the oil and the butter in ashallow pan until it starts sizzling.Season and place the fish into thepan, cook for 5-6 minutes on each

side or until cooked through. Lift from the pan andonto plates. Now in a clean pan, heat a drizzle of oliveoil. Add the onions and garlic, sweat these off for aminute of two or until they begin to soften. Next addthe chopped tomatoes and sugar, stir all ingredientstogether over a gentle heat. The tomatoes will soonbreak down to form a lovely rustic sauce. Spoon thesalsa around the bream, with a wedge of lemon and asprinkle of torn fresh basil leaves.

BREAM WITH TOMATO SALSA

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AALLLL CCHHAANNGGEE AATT TTHHEE WWOOOODDMMAANNThe Woodman sits in an enviable spot – a stone's throw from the sweep ofSwansea Bay, surrounded by the botanical grandeur of Clyne Garden. But itreserved its spot on the seafront way back in around 1819, when the Dukeof Beaufort leased land at Blackpill to build a school and a pub. This pub –which was then known as The Brinney Inn – was originally on the oppositeside of the road.

By the mid-1800s it had become known as The Woodman, and was boughtin 1880 by William Graham Vivian, the owner of the Clyne Estate. Then, justbefore the turn of the century, the original pub was demolished and rebuiltin the present location. Quite a history, which the pub is still writing. It's nowa solid favourite of locals and tourists alike, who love the rustic look, variedand adventurous menu, and one of the cosiest atmospheres you will find inSwansea – especially if the log fires are roaring!

In the last few months the pub has seen some big changes. Back in Octoberlast year, The Woodman enjoyed a refurbishment; retaining the country pubatmosphere you'd expect, with a fresh paint job, a gallery of mirrors andplenty of comfy furniture on which to plonk down and enjoy some food.

Then in February this year the pub saw more change, when locals welcomedback former manager Steve Rouse. He took control of The Woodman for thefirst time back in August 2011, and returned to the pub last month after ayear spent running another fine Swansea establishment. He's also gatheredtogether members of his old team to rejoin him, including kitchen teamleader Kristian Roberts and two other chefs.

But the changes don't stop there, with a new Spring/Summer menulaunched in March. I've had a chance to look at it in detail and there areplenty of seasonal winners. Highlights for me include the Buttermilk ChickenBurger, Asian-Style Chilli Duck Noodles, and a very summery Mango,Mozzarella and Asparagus Salad (perfect when the beer garden is in fullswing). Finished off with a Salted Caramel, Brownie and Cheesecake Sundae,and a few pints of real ale? Of course.

So while The Woodman still holds onto its heritage tightly, recent changeshave definitely made it more comfortable, friendly and delicious.

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REVIEW: ARTISAN BREAD MAKING

On a brisk February morning I popped along to theartisan bread making workshop at the Gower HeritageCentre, organised by the Swansea Bay Good FoodCircle. Before the actual bread making began, we hada guided tour of the working mill and our guide, Arwel,proved very entertaining as he explained the historyof the milling process.

Facts I remembered – it takes 25kg of grain to make9kg of flour, and flour is very explosive – so no metal-to-metal moving parts were permitted in the mill. Orsmoking for that matter!

We then moved to the classroom to construct ourown loaves. Supplied with everything we needed tomake the bread we set about crafting a traditionalorganic loaf. I found it refreshing not to have to followa rigid recipe. Instead, we were told by our experttutor, Chendore, to add 'about a third of a bag of flour'and 'around two ladles of water'. Just like they'd havedone back in the good ol' days.

We shaped our dough into sausages – accompaniedby a good dose of innuendo – before learning how tofold the dough into a Celtic knot, as well as the originof the phrase 'get your leg over' (cue more innuendo).

As the bread was left to rise, we enjoyed a lovely,home-made lunch in the Tea Rooms – three coursesno less! A robust cawl, organic bread and butter tostart, followed by a tasty cheese quiche, and finishedoff with some bara brith. All home-made, all delicious,and just what I needed (or should that be kneaded…)after a morning of bread making.

Gower Heritage CentreI took my two loaves home with me on a baking tray,ready to cook that evening. How did they come out,you ask? Not bad. Both of mine were about 60/40 ryeto white flour, and were edible – thankfully – and notas dense as they first appeared. They could havedone with a bit more salt, but I was pretty happy withmy first attempt!

by Chris Carra

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What was the first meal you ever cooked?The very first meal I cooked was actually aSunday roast. It was a roast shoulder of lambwith a red wine jus, Yorkshire pudding andsweetened carrots. This all came from GordonRamsay's Sunday Lunch cook book, and itturned out very well!

What's your favourite meal to cook for yourself?For myself I love to cook some honest,uncomplicated Italian dishes – whether it'strying to find the perfect carbonara or having ago at some simple but effective pizzas.

What's the most popular item on your menu atthe moment?Currently I'd say the most popular dish on themenu is the braised shoulder of Welsh lamb,which comes with tender stem broccoli, roastedshallots wrapped in Carmarthenshire ham, andgood old mashed potato – made from scratch.

LIFE IN THE KITCHENCHRIS PRICE: SOSBANThis month we chat to Chris Price, senior chef at Llanelli's famous Sosban. With a renownfine dining menu and a brand new wallet-friendly grill menu to focus on, Chris is one of thebusiest chefs in the areas. But we still managed to grab him to share his thoughts on lifebehind the kitchen doors.

When you are not working, where else in thearea do you enjoy eating out?I try to vary my choices when it comes to diningout, and enjoy anything from Tafarn y Morlaisin Llangennech, down to Slice in Sketty.

What's the best thing about being a chef?The best thing is being given the task ofcreating new menu ideas; figuring out whatworks best on the dish and then getting somegood feedback from our customers, who saythey thoroughly enjoyed their meals. It's alwaysgreat to hear those words: 'compliments to thechef!'

And the worst?I would say the only downfall of being a chef isthe long hours. Trying to fit in a social life whileworking crazy long days throughout the week ispretty tough, but it's worth it in the end.

Finally, if you weren't a chef, what would you bedoing?If I wasn't a chef I would probably be improvingmy swing on the golf course. I love spendingmost of my days on the course taking in theCosta del Carmarthenshire sunshine!

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As the editor of this fine magazine I do a lot of writing, editing and eating behind the scenes. However it's taken meuntil the fifth issue to realise I didn't have my own column. So I have put this right. I now introduce you to 'SwanseaOn A Plate' – a little culinary journey around the foodie hotspots of Swansea.

I've started with an area that's truly king for shoppers who are after fresh, local produce – Swansea Market. It's afoodie haven and the heartbeat of Swansea City Centre; bustling with local characters and steeped in history.

On my most recent walk around themarket, I noted at least 40 differentstalls offering food and local produce.It's actually surprising how many foodtraders there are in the market, fromTucker's Fish and The Choice is Yoursfruit and veg, to Billy Upton's family runbutchers, we really are spoiled forchoice.

In addition to a more uplifting grocery-buying experience than a trip to youraverage depressing 'superstore',Swansea Market also caters for thosewishing to have a bite to eat in thevibrant market. A classic café thatneeds no introduction is Sandy'sLunchbox, who serves up delicious,honest lunches – from curries andtheir famous carvery, to home-madepies, soups and cakes.

A newer addition, which has becomeincredibly popular with city centre eaters, is Thai Taste, who offer a full menu of authentic Thai cuisine –some dishes with an intense kick (I'm talking from experience)! It's all preservative and MSG-free, and tastesawesome. The queues at lunchtimes really speak volume for the quality of their food.

There are also several deli stalls selling everything from faggots and rissoles to cheeses and meats, but thehighlight for me is Goodies Deli whose refrigerated units are bursting with some wonderful exotic goods – localand continental cheeses, olives, and some delicious chorizos and cured meats.

Another stall I love to browse is Tiffany's Sweetie Jar – which offers hundreds of retro sweets, chocolates andconfectionery, and caters well for sugar-free, gluten-free and gelatine-free diets. Other highlights include CarolWatts – who is well known for her cockles, laverbread, prawns and a very popular seafood mix in a home-madesauce – and the nearby stall A Little Bit of Welsh, offering a great selection of Welsh preserves, honeys and jams.

I think I picked a good place to start my culinary journey of Swansea, but with a plethora of quality stalls, there'sonly so many I could remember. I suggest you get down to Swansea Market today and discover what goodies are instore for you!

JESSIE'S COTTAGE CAKESSWANSEA ON A PLATE: SWANSEA MARKET

Where's next on my journey? Find out in the next issue of Taste Swansea. In the meantime,feel free to send me your suggestions: info@tasteswansea.com

By Chris Carra

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PRODUCER IN FOCUS:JESSIE'S COTTAGE CAKES

In this regular feature we get a real taste of some of Swansea's most celebrated food and drinkproducers. In this issue, we speak with Rhossili-based cottage baker JESSICA HIGGS of Jessie'sCottage Cakes. A relatively new business, their mail-order tray-bakes are already hugely popularwith the cake lovers of Gower, Swansea and beyond!

You're a relatively new business, but take us back to thebeginning – when and why did you start Jessie's CottageCakes?I moved from Shropshire to Rhossili in June 2013 tolive with my now husband Tom, who farms GreatPitton Farm with his granddad Christopher Beynon. I'ma farmer's daughter myself and was brought up ontraditional home-made food, with my mum's Sundayroast a favourite; this was reflected when all my friendsused to conveniently arrive every Sunday at 12.30pm!Living on a farm all my life, and now with my farminghusband, food is very important for the energy levels,especially a sweet treat and this is where I firstdiscovered my love for baking. In November last year,after two years of Gower living, my love of baking andhaving my own business drove me to leave my positionas reception manager at the Oxwich Bay Hotel and goback to my passion.

What kind of produce do you specialise in?I specialise in tray-bake cakes; these are enjoyed byeveryone, anyone, and at any time. My five main cakesare Caramel Shortbread, Brownies, Blondies withRaspberries, Tiffin and Chocolate Chip Flapjacks. Then Ihave my cake of the month, which is currently Mother’sDay Malteser and Marshmallow Tiffin. In addition Icater for gluten free, and it's as simple as ticking thegluten free box on checkout – why miss out on cake!

So you actually bake the cakes in your cottage? Howdoes that work for you?I am currently baking with my country navy blueRayburn, which works well for me. However I amplanning to expand into one of the farm buildings overtime. Everything is baked to order on the morning ofdispatch and therefore the receiver could not ask forfresher – this is proper home baking, sent straight toyour door.

What's your favourite cake to bake and then eat?My personal favourite is the Caramel Shortbread, as Ilove the combination of the buttery shortbreadmelting in your mouth, the rich and gooey carameland then the crunchy milk chocolate – I am hungrythinking about them! Tom's favourite is the Tiffin – heloves the syrupy taste.

Where can people find you? Do you do any localmarkets? Any plans to open a shop?At present I am supplying a few establishments inSouth Gower, and I am going to have a stand at TheGower Show in August this year. I've also entered myCaramel Shortbread into the Great Taste Awards2016, and am hoping to hear back from them soon.I'm not planning on having my own shop, and I'mpredominantly trying to keep my business simple, andstick to one thing – mail order cakes. A lot of localsorder my cakes and pick them up, which is great.

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Est 1935

KRISTY'S BAKERYEversley Road, Swansea | 01792 201479

SSppeecciiaalliisstt IIttaalliiaann bbaakkeerryy iinn SSkkeettttyy

Baking today like we've done for 80 years.

facebook/KristysBakery @KristysBakery

KristysBakerySwansea.com

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Nestled inside the historic Dylan

Thomas Centre, 1825 Coffee Shop

serve up a lovely array of coffees,

courtesy of their bubbly Spanish

barista Rosa. They also focus on

veggie and special diets, offering

plenty of home-made soups, salads,

chills and daily specials. It's also a

relatively peaceful atmosphere and

great for working – I end up writing

half this magazine in 1825!

1825 COFFEE SHOP

An elegant J-Shed café that

specialises in much more than just

coffee. With an ever-changing and

varied bistro menu, Café TwoCann

has cemented itself as a foodie

paradise. Throw in a relaxed

atmosphere, friendly service, and

an array of special food and wine

events, and it's clear to see why

TwoCann is so popular.

CAFE TWOCANN

If you're after peace and quiet, look

no further than the tranquil café at

Swansea's Environment Centre (Pier

Street), which is a haven for fair-

trade, organic and eco-friendly

enthusiasts (which should really be

all of us). The café also offers its

own green shop, and perhaps the

greatest value on this list – instant

coffee for 80p and a cappuccino for

£1.50. Bargain!

ENVIRONMENT CENTRE

At the other end of SA1 we have a

very popular café, with a fresh and

bright setting, and lovely waterside

views that live up to its name. As

well as classic coffees, beers and

wines, they offer some good value

breakfasts, an array of cakes and

brownies, and a variety of specials –

from a grilled halloumi salad to an

antipasti meat platter.

COAST CAFE

One of the newest and most

exciting cafés in Swansea, the Great

Hall Café Bar is located on the first

floor of the brand new Great Hall

Building in Swansea University's

Bay Campus (Fabian Way). With

breathtaking views over the bay,

you'll find both coffees and staple

café favourites such as sandwiches

and salads, as well as beers, wines,

sharing platters and tapas.

GREAT HALL CAFE BAR

FIVE TO TRY: SA1 CAFESSA1 is such an exciting area of our lovely city,and marries all aspects of life in Swansea –business, academics and leisure. And youcan't have any of those without good coffee!So we've decided to round up five of the bestcafés in the SA1 area worth heading to nexttime you need a break.

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WIN:MEAL FOR TWOAT THE WOODMAN

COMPETITION!

If you've read our feature on the history and recent changes at The Woodman (page 21) you'll nodoubt be keen to pay them a visit. And one lucky Taste Swansea reader will have the chance to dothat for free! We are giving away a two-course meal for two people and a bottle of wine, which youcan enjoy in the cosy atmosphere of the newly refurbished Blackpill pub. To be in with a chance ofwinning, visit TasteSwansea.com,head to the 'Competitions' page,and enter your name and emailaddress. It's that simple!

Competition closes Tuesday, 3 May with winners selected atrandom and notified soon after. No cash alternative to the prizewill be offered. The prize is not transferable, and subject toavailability. We reserve the right to withdraw any prize withoutgiving notice. Taste Swansea is not responsible for inaccurateprize details supplied to any entrant by any third partyconnected with this competition. Terms and conditions apply.

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Former Masterchef judge, award-winning writer, journalist andbroadcaster, and even an occasional jazz pianist – Jay Rayner hasdone it all!

This month he will be appearing on stage in Swansea with his newshow A Night of Food and Agony – half stand up comedy aboutdreadful restaurant experiences, the other half a jazzy reflectionof food, drink, and being raised by his agony aunt mother.

And you can win two tickets to the show, courtesy of Swansea Grand Theatre!To be in with a chance of winning, head toTasteSwansea.com, go to the 'Competitions' page,and enter your name and email address.

A Night of Food and Agony is at SwanseaGrand Theatre on Friday, 29 April at 8pm.

Competition closes Tuesday, 15 April with winners selectedat random and notified soon after. No cash alternative tothe prize will be offered. The prize is not transferable, andsubject to availability. We reserve the right to withdraw anyprize without giving notice. Taste Swansea is not responsiblefor inaccurate prize details supplied to any entrant by anythird party connected with this competition. Terms andconditions apply.

WIN: TICKETS TOA NIGHT OF FOOD AND AGONY

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BBEEHHIINNDD TTHHEEBBRREEWW::FIFTY SHADES OFPALE ALEWhat's in a colour? Over two hundred years ago all beerwas real ale, and it was all dark in colour - such as ImperialStout from London, which was brewed in such a way towithstand long, tough journeys to imperial Russia. This alewas reputedly the favourite drink of the Russianaristocracy. But it wasn't just stouts – even lager bier of thatera was dark.

Slightly later, new barley malt roasting technology,combined with the high-sulfate waters of Burtonon-Trent,created the next famous British export: India Pale Ale. Andthe Mumbles Brewery IPA is true to tradition, using onlyBritish hops which include Fuggles 'dry hopped' in the cask,just like those sent around the Cape.

Since the 18th Century, ales have become lighter, withgolden beers becoming particularly popular. For the SixNations 2016 tournament I designed my lightest ale ever –a blonde beer called Hop Kick. It flew over the bar, breakingall my previous sales records for a single ale. At only 4%ABV, it is very easy to drink and the refreshing Americanhop flavours brought drinkers back for more. It poses thequestion: is blonde the new gold?

Then, at Easter weekend, I launched my first American PaleAle, called Triple Hop Pale. At 4.7% ABV, it is strong enoughto take the complexities of three American hops, one 'dryhopped' in a conditioning vessel before casking. Look outfor more pale ales from Mumbles Brewery over thesummer months.

Rob TurnerHead Brewer, Mumbles Brewery

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With more than 25 years experience in the wine industry, ANTOINETTEMILNE is a superb addition to the Taste Swansea line-up and will be sharingher expertise with you over the next few months. This issue, Antoinette looks at the very best winesto enjoy in the warmer spring weather; pairing them with some fantastic in-season local produce.

WINE & DINE: SpringWith Antoinette Milne

Ancre Hill Estates Sparkling Rose 2013How about trying the delicious Ancre Hill Estates Sparkling Rose with Welsh spider crab? It’s adelicate pairing, with this sparkling rose giving a refreshing and zesty lift to the beautiful crab. Thewine – a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – is a pale salmon pink colour, and has notes ofrefreshing ripe citrus fruit, and wild strawberries and cream on the palate with subtle hints ofvanilla. Asoft persistent mousse with a clean finish.£28.99 at Cheers Wine Merchants and Mumbles Fine Wines

Antoinette runs Wine For Life Learning, which organises a series of certified wine courses and tastings across Wales.Please visit WineForLifeLearning.co.uk for more details. Sign up for the WSET Level 1 Award in Wines at Café TwoCann onApril 4, 5 and 11. All wines and prices were accurate at time of print.

Glyndwr Red 2013As a fuller bodied wine, Glyndwr Red stands up well to Welsh Black Beef, while the saltiness in themeat enhances the smoothness and richness of the wine. A wonderful marriage. Produced fromearly ripening mature Rondo grapes, this red wine is full-coloured and fragrant. Gently aged inAmerican oak barrels, it displays a charming, rustic character of berry fruits and savoury nuances.£17.50 at Glyndwr Vineyard in Cowbridge - also available at Dylan's Sketty.

Ancre Hill Estates Pinot Noir 2013If you are thinking of enjoying some roast Welsh Lamb (see David's recipe on Page 7), the Ancre HillEstates Pinot Noir works particularly well as the lovely acidity will be the perfect foil for the oily meat.Lovely aromas and flavours of red fruits such as wild strawberry and black cherry, combined withspice and hints of liquorice. There's a lasting, smooth finish. Ready to enjoy from now until 2020.£23.99 at Mumbles Fine Wines and available at Cheers Wine merchants

Gwin Gwyn 2014What about trying Gwin Gwyn white wine with some tasty local cockles (albeit without vinegar)?The refreshing ripe fruit in the wine enhances the salty, fleshy mollusc and both will appearsmoother and richer. A blend of Phoenix and Siegerrebe grape varieties, it's dry and delicate withfloral aromas of elderflower and ripe citrus fruits on the palate. It also won a Bronze Award at theUK Vineyards Association Wine of the Year Competition 2015.£15.00 at White Castle Vineyard

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