Herpetoculture House

Tales & Trails

Those Unforgettable Mexican Nights

The Importance of Amphibians

Vol. 1 Issue 5

Editors Desk So here we are at issue 5 and to be completely honest what may very well be our second to last issue. The fact of the matter is that we are struggling to recruit writers and photographers who are willing to write or photograph quality content which we can include in the magazine. As sad as it is to say, the fact of the matter is that there were a lot of people who stated they would subscribe or assist in one way or another to make this eZine a success. Many of those people fell through due to unforeseen circumstances and what have you. So without getting dramatic about it we want to thank those who have subscribed and we will be pursuing other potential avenues to keep the eZine going such as potentially lowering our subscription rate and making it available via Kindle and other formats. If you or someone you know is interested in writing or photographing for our eZine we would be happy to hear from them as we really do enjoy putting this together. The fact is that we cannot do this all on our own. We are dependent on you our audience as contributors to the eZine. If you want to see this eZine continue to grow and prosper please consider telling a friend to either contribute or subscribe so that we can continue providing a quality product. With that said there was a huge mistake on my end in the last issue. In the photographic essay by Katy Bugler I referred to the snakes as Reticulated pythons which was a glaring oversight on my behalf as they are actually African Rock Pythons. I humbly apologize to Katy and want to make sure that everyone knows that the mistake was on my behalf. So in this particular issue we have some great authors that we’ve recruited and they are sharing their stories with us. In no particular order we have Sara Viernum who is also known as The Wandering Herpetologist visit her website for some really great information. In this issue she tells us about why amphibians are so very important to the environment and humans as well. We are also visited by our longtime friend from across the pond Tom Williams who educates us on breeding and some of the controversy between wild caught and captive bred reptiles. We also get an education on keeping and breeding the Mexican Night Snake from Herpin’ Time Radio host Justin Guyer. We are very excited to welcome to the team Melissa Coakley whom you may recognize from our last issue. We are bringing here on board as a regular contributor to the magazine as our field herping correspondent with her new regular column Tales and Trails. You can find her personal website at Snake Hunting Chick.

Pa The Importance of Amphibians Pg. 4

Mexican Night Snakes Pg. 6

How much is that Alligator in the Window? Pg.9

Tales & Trails: Florida Pg. 14

My First Foray into Breeding Pg. 15

The Importance of Amphibians

By Sara Viernum

As we all know amphibian species are suffering worldwide. The International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN) states that currently 2,030 species of amphibians are threatened or extinct (1). This is almost one-third of the 6,260 documented amphibian species on the planet. The major threats to these species are habitat loss, pollution, disease, human disturbance, and invasive species. Everyone is familiar with the iconic golden toad (Bufo periglenes) of Costa Rica that is assumed to be extinct due to a possible combination of global warming, chytridiomycosis (the disease caused by chytrid fungus), and pollution. Or the regional example of the Oregon spotted frog (Rana pretiosa) that is no longer found in 70-90% of its historic geographic range here in the Northwest because of habitat destruction and invasive species (2). Another example of a declining amphibian that hits close to home for this author is the green salamander (Aneides aeneus) a species I worked with in Alabama. This salamander has suffered tremendous habitat destruction and has disappeared from close to 80% of its known geographic range with some areas like the Blue Ridge Escarpment experiencing a 98% decline in populations (3).

So what does it matter if a bunch of slimy, warty amphibians go extinct? Why should you care about amphibians and their conservation?

First off, amphibians play an important role in our ecosystems and our lives because they are indicator species. An indicator species is an organism that is very sensitive to a certain environmental factor and the presence or absence of the organism will provide information about that factor (4). Since most amphibians live in both aquatic and terrestrial habitats at some point in their lifecycles they serve as indicators for the health of both environments. Also, due to the porous nature of their skin they are highly sensitive to any changes in their surroundings. Their skin sensitivity and dual habitat requirements makes them great indicator species. Take for example that a pollutant is introduced into a lake and that lake is a water source for

your town. The decline in the number of frogs in and around the lake can alert officials that there is a problem. This alarm can then lead them to find and remove the pollutant which in turn can help save you and the town’s people that rely on the water from being ill.

An amphibian just helped you!

Amphibians are important in other ways as well. They are an essential member of an ecosystem and its food chain. They serve as predators to invertebrates (and even vertebrates, especially American bullfrogs) and in turn are prey for larger organisms. The northern dusky salamander (Desmognathus fuscus) is a great example of an amphibian predator and a key species in its ecosystem. An article in 2008 explained how this salamander in a roundabout way helps reduce global warming because of the prey it consumes. Ellen Pehek, a senior ecologist for the Natural Resources Group of the New York City Department of Parks and Recreation, stated that

“They eat the insects that break down the leaf litter, so salamanders are slowing that decay. There’s carbon sequestered in those leaves, so in a way you could say salamanders are slowing down global warming,” (5)

Amphibians to the rescue again! They also make up a large portion of an ecosystem’s biomass, which is the total physical mass of all the organisms of a certain type and/or in a certain area (4). For example one study showed that the biomass of the

eastern redback salamander (Plethodon cinereus) in a New Hampshire forest was twice as much as birds and equal to small mammals (6). This means that salamanders (and other amphibians) are very important to the health of forests. Since they make up such a large biomass of an area

as they experience more and more population declines so do other species that rely on them. These species will begin to suffer as well. As we lose species we lose biodiversity which creates a huge concern for our health and the planet’s

health. Biodiversity is all the plants, animals, and microorganisms in a habitat (4). When we lose biodiversity we run the risk of

harmful occurrences like lowered food production, increased disease vectors, and reduced air and water quality. We also begin to lose the organisms themselves that we rely for things like medical usage, paper goods, food resources, and carbon sinks.

Score another point to the amphibians!

Amphibians can also directly aid humans. A few examples are cancer fighting proteins, hearing aid, and tissue regeneration. A recent study from scientists at Queen’s University found proteins in the skin secretions of the waxy monkey frog (Phyllomedusa sauvagii) and the giant firebellied toad (Bombina maxima) that could be used to fight cancer in humans (7). Another frog species may help humans hear. Scientists discovered that the way tungara frogs (Physalaemus pustulosus) process sound is similar to humans and the information may be used to help people with hearing disorders (8). A study on eye regeneration in Japanese firebelly newts (Cynops pyrrhogaster) may one day aid humans with re-growing damaged tissues (9).

Once again amphibians helping humans!

All these reasons and more are why we all need to support amphibian conservation and help keep these amazing creatures from going extinct. Not only are they key species in ecosystems around the world but they can directly and indirectly help us humans. So the next time you see a frog hopping crossing the road, stop and giving him a helping hand. Who knows, he may one day return the favor!

If you are interested in helping amphibians below is a list of some of the conservation organizations you should check out. You can also contact your local university to see if any

graduate students are working on amphibian projects. Graduate students always need free labor.

Amphibian Conservation Organizations:• Partners in Amphibian and Reptile Conservation

- www.parcplace.org• Save The Frogs! - www.savethefrogs.com• Amphibian Specialist Group -

www.amphibians.org• Amphibian Ark - www.amphibianark.org• Amphibian and Reptile Conservation - www.arc-

trust.org

References

1. International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources - IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. 2011. http://www.iucnredlist.org/initiatives/amphibians/analysis/red-list-status

2. Lannoo, M. (Editor). 2005. Amphibian Declines: The Conservation Status of United States Species. University of California Press.

3. Viernum, S. 2007. Natural history and habitat selection of the Green Salamander, Aneides aeneus (Cope and Packard), in Northeastern Alabama. MS Thesis, Jacksonville State University.

4. Martin, E. and Hine, R. (Editors). 2000. A Dictionary of Biology. Oxford University Press Inc., New York.

5. Baard, E. (Editor). 2008. Manhattan’s Dusky Salamander, a Stealthy Survivor. http://naturecalendar.wordpress.com/2008/04/24/manhattan%E2%80%99s-dusky-salamander-a-stealthy-survivor/

6. Burton, T. M. and Likens, G. E. 1975. Salamander Populations and Biomass in the Hubbard Brook Experimental Forest, New Hampshire. Copeia. 1975(3):541-546.

7. Viernum, S. 2011. Frog skin may help fight cancer. http://www.wanderingherpetologist.com/frog-skin-may-help-fight-cancer/

8. Viernum, S. 2011. Frogs Helping Humans Hear. http://www.wanderingherpetologist.com/frogs-helping-humans-hear/

9. Viernum, S. 2011. Newts Regrow Eye Lenses. http://www.wanderingherpetologist.com/newts-regrow-eye-lenses/

Those Unforgettable Mexican Nights

By Justin Guyer

Introduction

Mexican Nightsnakes (Pseudelaphe flavirufa) are also known as Mexican Rat Snakes, Flavs, or Yucatan Rat Snakes. They are nocturnal, arboreal constrictors that despite being hardy and interesting animals to work with

are somewhat of a rarity in U.S. collections. There are four known subspecies of Pseudelaphe flavirufa: P.f. flavirufa, P.f. matudai, P.f.

pardalinus, and P.f. polystichus. To the best of my knowledge Pseudelaphe flavirufa flavirufa is the only subspecies that is kept and bred in the U.S. so that is the subspecies that this article will focus on.

Natural History

Wild populations of Mexican Nightsnakes are found in wooded areas of Mexico's Yucatan peninsula where they feed mainly on birds, rodents, and lizards. Mexican Nightsnakes are currently listed as a species of least concern as they have a very widespread range and a fairly strong wild population density. The wild population is however somewhat in decline with habitat destruction for agricultural purposes being the greatest threat.

Acquiring a Hatchling

Finding a Mexican Nightsnake available for sale can be a real challenge in itself! Although the demand for Pseudelaphe within the reptile industry is on the increase, very few American breeders are actually producing this species in captivity. Every now and then Mexican Nightsnakes will pop up on online classifieds adds and they are rarely presented at shows. Your best bet is to ask around within the industry and find a reputable breeder and contact them directly. But be aware that you may find yourself at the bottom of a long waiting list!

Because it can be very difficult to get Flavs to feed on frozen/thawed prey it is very important that you ask the breeder what the animals are feeding on before you acquire

the snake. You may have to be prepared to supply live rodents as food for you Flav.

Captive Care

Temperament

I personally find Mexican Nightsnakes to be rewarding animals to work with and breed. They are extremely docile snakes but also very curious about their surroundings. When handled they will often stretch out and seem to want to take a look at everything around them. I have never seen a Mexican Nightsnake attempt to deliver a defensive strike or become defensive in any way. I have only been bitten once by a Mexican Nightsnake and that was an accidental feeding strike where the snake simply missed the prey and hit my finger by mistake.

Housing

I house my adult Mexican Nightsnakes in professional grade CB70 rack systems. I start hatchlings in six quart tubs and upgrade the enclosure size as the snake grows. As in all reptiles, the body temperature of a Flav is determined by its environment. So it is important to provide a thermal gradient within the enclose so that the snake can warm up or cool down as needed. This can be done by running a strip of insulated flex watt under the rear of the tub. It is important to be sure that the flex watt is controlled by a thermostat so that you don't accidentally overheat your snake. A basking area of roughly 85F and an ambient temperature of roughly 75F is ideal for these snakes.

For hatchlings and juveniles I use paper towels as substrate. I use cypress mulch as substrate in adult enclosures. For water bowls, I like to use plastic dog water bowls that are hollow underneath with handgrips cut in the sides. The handgrip cuts give the snake easy access to underneath the water bowl and this way, the water bowl doubles as a hide box. I use deli cups as water bowls for hatchlings and juveniles. It is also vitally important that the enclosure is completely escape proof!

Feeding

Mexican Nightsnakes are long, slender snakes and I feel that they should stay long and slender snakes. I feel that it is

important to not overfeed these animals or try to 'fatten them up' for breeding purposes. I feed my Flavs once a week with prey that is roughly the same diameter as the thickest part of the snake's body. As I said earlier, it is common for Flavs to turn their noses up at frozen/thawed prey. I feed my picky live feeders one appropriate sized mouse per week. Make sure that you don't leave a live adult rodent in with your snake for any longer than a couple of hours as the rodent may actually cause injury to your Flav. For the snakes I have that will take frozen/thawed meals, I normally feed either one appropriate sized thawed mouse or one thawed chick per week. Mexican Nightsnakes seem to have a fondness for eating birds.

Breeding

Known Genetic Morphs

At the time of the writing of this article, the only known genetic morph of Mexican Nightsnakes is Anerythrism. Anerythristic (Anery) Mexican Nightsnakes lack the ability to produce erythin, or red pigment. Anerythrism is a proven recessive trait in this species. Anerys display an attractive contrast of grays and blacks throughout their pattern.

Determining Gender

Before you can breed your Mexican Nightsnakes you have to determine whether or not you actually have both a male and a female.

Brumation

Even though my reptile room does experience a significant drop in ambient temperature during the winter months, I do not feel that Mexican Nightsnakes need to be brumated before breeding. They come from a sub-tropical climate that does not experience harsh winters. I leave the heat on in the snakes' basking areas and continue to feed them throughout the winter although it is not uncommon for some snakes to refuse feedings during this time.

Pairing Snakes

I start pairing my Flavs together at about the middle of April, the same time I start pairing my Corns and Kings, but I usually don't start observing lockups until about the middle of May or so. It seems that the Flavs breed a little later in the season as opposed to the breeding season of the more commonly kept Colubrids.

Preparing The Laying Box And Incubation Of The Eggs

When the female Flav has gone off feed and has started to swell in the rear third of her body and I am sure that she is gravid I begin preparing the egg box. I use a 3.7 liter

rubbermaid container 1/2 full of sphagnum peat moss as a laying box. When I begin preparing the egg box, I soak the sphagnum. Making it much wetter than what would be ideal for incubation. I cut an entrance hole in the lid of the box and place it in the gravid female's enclosure.

Keep an eye out for the pre-lay shed. The female will lay her eggs approximately 7-10 days after she has shed. By the time that the female lays the eggs, the super soaked sphagnum has dried to the point where it is perfect for incubation. The female will deposit a clutch of three or four eggs in the box. The largest clutch I have ever seen is six

eggs. I have never had a female Flav lay her eggs outside of the box. Once I observe that the female has laid her eggs, I gently remove the female from

the egg box and feed her a well deserved meal. I pack some damp sphagnum around the eggs and tape a note card with all of the relevant information of the clutch written on it over the entrance hole with packing tape. I tape both sides of the card to protect the information from condensation. The notecard taped over the hole helps to keep the sphagnum inside the box from drying out. I incubate the eggs in the same box that they were laid in and with this method I never have to actually touch the eggs. During the 2011 season I had a 100% hatch rate using this method. The eggs will start to hatch at about 75-85 days incubated at temperatures within the 80-82F range.

Hatchlings!

Many breeders shy away from working with Flavs because of their small clutch sizes. But you should see the hatchlings that emerge! Flavs hatch at 14-16 inches long and are huge, very robust babies! Mexican Nightsnake hatchlings are also vividly colored as compared to the adults with a red in the pattern that rivals that of many Milksnakes. It is a shame that that color dulls out as they grow. I start my baby Flavs in 6qt containers with a paper towel as substrate and a deli cup as a water bowl. The babies will shed their first shed at about 12 days after hatching. At that time I start feeding them peach fuzzy mice. Although many Flavs will turn there noses up at F/T prey, I have never once had a hatchling refuse a live peach

fuzz mouse. I've never hatched a baby that I would consider a 'problem feeder'. I feed the hatchlings once per week and once they have become established feeders I start introducing F/T prey and try to get as many as I can started on F/T. Some will take to the thawed prey, some won't.

Conclusion

Although they lay small clutches and really can't be mass produced, Mexican Nightsnakes are very rewarding to work with. Their behavior is totally different than any other Colubrid I have ever worked with. They are both extremely docile and curious captives that make wonderful pets. They have wildly variable patterns and wicked looking eyes. The hatchlings are colorful, hardy and robust feeders that will not disappoint you! If you want to work with a species that is a bit 'different', why not try Flavs?

All photographs for this article were taken by the author Justin Guyer.

How much is that alligator in the window?

By: Chris Law

Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus)- Photo by the author

The title of this article might seem a bit silly, however, this question is asked in pet stores across the nation much more often than one might think.

There are many people throughout the world who question the sanity of any individual who has any admiration for these prehistoric reptiles, much less an individual who wants to keep one as a “companion animal” in their dwelling. The biggest problem today, is that pet alligators and other crocodilians such as caimans and crocodiles are becoming increasingly popular. The popularity boom in pet crocodilians is a direct result of cheap prices, easy access and smooth sales pitches from pet store owners/employees which is often-times misinformation on care and proper accommodation. At this point, you are probably curious about the inaccuracies in these statements and what makes them false. It is only natural that potential owners be curious and skeptical of new information, beyond what they were told by, whom they felt, were experts on the topic.

Some of these commonly used sales pitches are:

- Crocodilians only grow to the size of their enclosure

- Limiting the animals feeding will limit the animals growth

- Regular handling will tame the animal and make them more suitable pets

- Goldfish make for good crocodilian food

- Crocodilians don’t require veterinary care

These kinds of sales hype are used by a large number of pet stores, because this approach is often known to end with a sale. This article will attempt to cover each statement as thoroughly as it can to help provide you a better understanding as to why these statements are used and why they are false.

1.) Crocodilians only grow to the size of their environment. - Pet stores use this statement because this gives the potential purchaser a false sense that they will always be able to manage this animal. Presumably, first time potential purchasers consider housing accommodations first before bringing the prospective pet home. By a believed “expert” on these animals informing them that these animals’ size can be controlled, it relieves this concern of the purchaser. However, a potential purchaser should not assume that the seller is an “expert” on these animals.

Truth- Crocodilians, along with other reptiles, grow according to Caloric intake and temperature. Reptiles, after capturing their prey and ingesting it, utilize their environmental temperature, along with their strong stomach acids to aid in the digestion of the food item. If appropriately warm temperatures and a constant food supply are provided (as it should be) these animals will continue to outgrow enclosure upgrades, until they reach adulthood.

2.) If you reduce food intake, it will limit the animal’s growth- Once again, this is used to give a purchaser a false sense of control over this animal’s size and over-all growth. This statement is actually true, but not quite in the manner you might think.

Truth- While this statement is actually true; its practice is unethical as well as unhealthy for the animal in question. All crocodilians grow and develop for their entire lifespan. As with all other animals in the Wild Kingdom, crocodilians and other reptiles require specialized diets in appropriate quantities in order to support its development. Lack of appropriate diet in sufficient quantities can lead to poor muscle tone and bone deformities (among other ailments) due to a severe calcium deficiency. It is imperative that you thoroughly research the correct nutritional requirements for crocodilians (or any animal for that matter) before bringing it into your dwelling. Beyond the health factors associated with this practice, it is ethically questionable. Just as a parent would want to ensure proper nutrition for their child, a pet owner owes it to the animal to have the same.

3.) Regular handling will tame your Alligator and make it a more suitable pet in your home. – Obviously, another concern among most purchasers of these animals is the risk of injury due to the animal’s powerful jaws and lacerating teeth. Many buyers purchase a crocodilian thinking they can condition the animal to behave like a dog. Presuming that frequent handling will tame the animal gives the impression that the animal will be fully controllable and easy to manage.

Truth- It is no surprise that some handling is unavoidable. There is routine maintenance to keep in mind as well as veterinary procedures that might at some point require the handling and restraint of your crocodilian. However, these handling sessions should be only on an “as needed” basis and only long enough to perform these functions and then the animal should remain undisturbed for the remainder of the time. During handling sessions, proper physical support should be provided to the animal to prevent injury to the animal or keeper, even if this requires an additional person to get the job done correctly. Routine handling will only help the animal to build some “tolerance” for it. However, it is important to note that “tolerance” does not equate to “enjoyment”. Crocodilians, in general do not enjoy being handled, as it is unnatural and can be a rather stressful experience for it. Most animals upon being grasped will proceed to thrash and struggle. This struggle causes a build-up of lactic acid in the bloodstream which in most cases causes the animal to become tired; however, too great an increase of this build-up can be fatal. A result of the general newness and uniqueness of such animals as pets, is that they are frequently handled upon purchase. However, the comfort and security of the animal must be taken into consideration and thus generally means frequent handling should be avoided for the well being of the specimen in question.

In the hands of professionals with proper care, limited handling and a rotation of animals to be used, stress on individual specimens is minimized. There are cases where sometimes crocodilians are used for entertainment or educational purposes where they are being physically restrained or handled in a manner that causes the animal to become stressed. In general, when this is the case, it is best to have 2-3 additional animals to use so that that they may all be cycled in/out of the show or program to prevent too much stress on one animal. Limited handling is always the best policy. This

reduces stress to the animal and reduces chances of physical injury to the animal or keeper. Flavio Morrissiey of reptilebehavior.com, a specialist in reptile behavior, states, “Health issues are typically anorexia and infections from stress. Each animal responds differently to handling. Handling is defined in my terms as touching, using foreign objects to move the animal (stick, rope, hook etc.).”

Chris Dieter, director of Crocodile Encounters in Angleton, Texas says, “Up to about 2 years of age limited handling doesn't adversely affect them at all. However excessive handling appears to increase the animal’s stress, slows growth and diminishes overall health. After 2 years virtually all handling is stressful”.

4.) Goldfish (Carassius auratus) are a good staple diet for hatchling crocodilians.- Pet owners want simplicity, not complexity. Throwing common goldfish to the animals seems to be an easy way to feed it.

Truth- There is little nutritional value in goldfish. Raising a crocodilian on goldfish would be about the equivalent of a parent raising their child on junk food. Goldfish simply do not provide adequate nutrition that would help your young animal to develop into a strong, healthy adulthood.

As a hatchling, Rosy red feeder fish, crickets, fuzzy mice, chicken and beef among other food items make a good staple diet for a young crocodilian. When it comes to captive crocodilian diet- variety is the key. If you are not feeding whole prey items (as in whole rodents, chickens, etc) then likely the animal is not satisfying its nutritional needs. Hence, vitamin and mineral supplementation is very necessary. In addition to this, goldfish are known to carry a harmful enzyme known as ‘Thiaminase’. To make a long story short, Thiaminase destroys Thiamine which is Vitamin B1. A staple diet of goldfish will lead to the malnourishment and death of your animal. Simply put, your animal should never see a goldfish.

Crocodilians never have to be taken to a vet because they are a reptile. – What else could make a pet alligator or other crocodilian seem even more ‘low maintenance’ than never having to receive veterinary attention? No wonder pet sales agents may say this. If a potential crocodilian purchaser feels that they can spend less money, but can still have a pet to brag about to their friends, this animal

will sell. Many pet stores will use this as an additional ‘perk’ to owning one of these animals. No trips to the vet office, means less money spent. This makes these animals seem even more attractive to own.

Truth- While crocodilians seldom require veterinary care if kept in proper conditions and provided an excellent diet, this alone doesn’t mean that a trip to the vet’s office will never be needed. Improper temperature and humidity levels will lead to a serious respiratory infection. Unsanitary conditions could result in a bacterial infection.

Photos courtesy of Shane Heck- Rescued American Alligator w/ bacterial infection

There are other issues to keep in mind as well for the health of these animals, but the two listed are most common. Crocodilians are far more complex, biologically and physiologically, than what meets the eye. It is automatically assumed that they are reptiles and carry all the same basic needs and requirements of other reptiles. However, it’s not as simple as that. Crocodilians, being evolved on this planet for approximately 200 million years, have a variety of biological and physiological adaptations that are not anything reptilian-like. In all rights, these animals are a mixture of many of our world’s animal inhabitants, and are more closely related to birds than reptiles.

Still interested in keeping a pet crocodilian? Please, read further…

Let’s get down to brass tacks. The housing of a hatchling seems pretty inexpensive, right? Have you thought about what it would cost to house this animal properly 3-4 years from now? How about as an adult? What do the experts say about the economics of keeping a crocodilian in a private capacity?

“The keeping of a large crocodilian is not an inexpensive endeavor”, says Judith Bryja, Supervisor of Herpetology for the Houston Zoo. “Presuming one has the space and no restrictions disallowing the keeping of the animal, it is a big project to provide an environment with clean water and a secure containment system,” said Bryja. Most would also require some type of heating. I won’t guess on the cost of

initial setup but it would not be cheap. Food would probably run about $100.00 per month. Veterinary care would be a challenge and quite expensive.”

Things to consider when deciding upon keeping a pet crocodilian:

1.) Currently, I have a 12 inch American Alligator, but what do I plan to do when this animal is 8,9,10 feet or larger?- Keeping possession of these animals when they are young animals 1-2ft seems easy enough. You might even be successful housing and keeping it at 3-4ft. However, you can’t ignore the fact that the animal WILL get larger if it is properly cared for. What do you plan to do then? Let it free-roam around the home, only to cause you or one of your family members a severe injury because of a simple accident? You must keep ALL life-stages of these animals in mind before deciding whether you want to take upon the responsibility of keeping one in your home.

2.) Is the animal legal where I reside?- Some states have legal restrictions on possession of such animals. Even if the state doesn’t, your local laws pertaining to your city, county, or township will most likely have some sort of laws restricting the ownership of certain animals. In most cases, these are due to houses being too close together and high population of children in the area, etc. What if the animal were to escape its enclosure somehow and get loose into the neighborhood? This most certainly is not unheard of.

3.) Will I have the financial stability to care for this animal when it is an adult?- You may have the space to house this animal as an adult and be completely willing to do so, but there might be ONE thing getting in your way…your wallet. If you are barely able to pay your current bills now and you are living off of the basics with no luxury items to get rid of, then most likely you are going to have a terrible time providing for your animal. Think of the frequent water changes, electric for heating, and food bills. A large enclosure requires a lot more heat, which costs a lot more to provide. A larger animal eats considerably more than that 20” animal you have now. If you can’t afford to provide everything that the animal needs, the animal only suffers.

4.) How do those living with and/or around me feel about this? – It’s simple enough to say, “The heck

with what my neighbors think, this is a free country”! The problem with this is that your neighbors are concerned about their own safety. Again, what if your animal escapes and meets them on their doorstep one morning? You don’t really think you’re going to keep a 10’ Alligator inside the house do you? Usually, nobody frets about the hatchling you just brought home, but as this animal grows, it will create a greater concern. What about your family living with you? Could this possibly cause a strain on a marriage? If so, you’re only going to have to find another home for this animal anyhow (unless of course you don’t mind forfeiting your marriage for this animal) so why bother to get one if you can’t provide for it for the rest of its life?

5.) Am I willing to risk serious injury or even death for the sake of having an interesting or cool pet?- People are often under the assumption that they will tame this animal down so that it is basically a scaly puppy dog. The fact of the matter is that no matter how “tame” this animal seems, it is still a wild animal with wild instincts that you could unintentionally trigger. This could easily result in the loss of a limb or extremity.

6.) Are you currently living in the north or south?- If you are living in the northern U.S. housing this animal is going to be much more difficult. The winters are MUCH harsher and housing outdoors is rather difficult unless you happen to build a barn or something similar that is heated and insulated. The construction of such a building will run thousands of dollars and the maintaining of that building will be expensive as well. Again, remember heating, water filtration, water changes, basking bulbs or other forms of lighting. Some of these aren’t necessarily expensive standing alone, but all together it certainly adds up.

7.) Are you living in a house or apartment?- If you’re living in an apartment, why are you even considering this? Do you know for 150% certain that you are moving out of that apartment within the next couple of months and into a house that you own? This goes the same for renting a house. Renting isn’t going to do you any good as you can’t build anything permanent for the animal. You should only be considering this IF, you are stable in your living environment.

8.) Do you have a veterinarian that can treat your crocodilian if the need arises?- If not, you better find one. You never know when your animal might need some medical treatment. What if the power in your house goes out for a few days and the temperature drops to a dangerous level and the animal develops a respiratory infection? In many cases, this can be corrected simply by correcting the environmental conditions. However, sometimes, the infection is developed enough that it requires medical treatment to resolve via the use of antibiotics. Who is willing to do this in your area? You just can’t waltz into any veterinary clinic and check your Nile Crocodile in for a checkup! If you are curious about where you can find a crocodilian vet, please see: http://www.crocodopolis.net/directoryvetr.htm

9.) What about transportation of a large adult animal?- If you think you’re going to load your 10’ Nile crocodile into your 2-door Chevy Cavalier, think again! A large truck, even an F-150 would do the trick, but what about during the winter time? This might seem easy enough to resolve, but it still requires consideration as if you’re not already driving such a vehicle, you would be required to buy one just because of your “pet”.

10.) Do you have a backup handler for safety?- Do you honestly think that you’re going to be able to handle this animal all on your own? It’s easy enough to do up to around 4-5’. After that, it gets a little tougher. It’s more difficult to physically restrain the animal and when carrying the animal, you run the risk of not properly supporting the animals’ weight and causing injury to the specimen in question.

“If I’ve decided that crocodilian ownership is not for me, however, I do want to have opportunities to work with them…what can I do”?

9.)

Photo courtesy of Jarrod Forthman (3ft Caiman injury)

Would you seriously want to take your chances handling this on your own? – Photo by the author

That is certainly a good question. After all, animals across the globe need all of the help they can get. Someone such as you would be an excellent asset. Perhaps the first thing that must be considered is exactly how far do you want to take your interaction opportunities? Are you interested in just a part time interaction, a few times per week or are you considering a zoological career related initiative? Zoos at times are looking for keepers if you’re willing to put in the volunteer time or get a degree. For many zoos, both would be a requirement.

Rescues and rehabilitation centers many times need volunteers to help with cleaning, feeding, and sometimes educational outreach programs. Does any of this sound like something you would be interested in? If so, please check out: http://www.crocodopolis.net/directoryemploy.htm for a list of web sources that can help you figure out how to get started in a career with crocodilians and other exotic wildlife. It is understandable why some feel the desire to keep certain animals within their possession, but it is without a doubt that in many regards it is not to the animals’ benefit. Please educate yourself well before undertaking the challenge of keeping a dangerous predator.

Tales and Trails By Melissa Coakley

Florida is a great place to live if you love snakes. In fact, as I sat down to write this today my fiancé Bill came into the house to tell me there was a snake in the front yard. It was already gone when I went outside, but according to Bill it was a black racer – one of the more frequently spotted snakes of the area. We live in St. Petersburg and have regular opportunity to view several common wild snakes. Of course, since Florida is such a large state there are quite a few places we can drive to if we want to see some different species or just some different scenery. One of my favorite places to herp in Florida is in Hendry County in and around the sugar cane fields near Lake Okeechobee.

I have to drive a few hours to get to Hendry County but, during any given weekend throughout February or March this is where I will likely be found. There is a decent variety of Florida snakes in this area and if you know where to look you will find any number of them. This past spring I found yellow rat snakes, normal and anerythristic corns, pygmy rattlers, ring-necks, black racers, an indigo, garter

snakes, cottonmouths, an abundance of water snakes (quiet often breeding), and of course Florida kings. The snakes are found under trash and debris, boards, carpet remnants, and fallen signs. They are also seen in trees, in water or along the banks, and quiet often in roads. There is also a large quantity of gators and many frogs and turtles – cooters and softshells mostly -

to be seen as well. I usually find a few legless lizards and lots of skinks. I am especially fond of the cool looking broad-head skinks that are plentiful throughout the area. Sadly, not everything we find is alive. In addition to DOR snakes, Bill and I have found bones from several animals including deer, alligator, and hog. We have also,

unfortunately, found many shells from turtles who were clearly victims of human predation.

You never know what you are going to find in the Cane fields and this is one of the most alluring aspects of hunting there. I often find snakes loaded with scars from controlled burn. Last year Bill and I found one badly burned yellow rat snake that seemed to be doing quite well despite the burns. One of the worst finds was a huge pile of

dead frogs – there had to be several hundred – all missing their legs. I have also found piles of dead fish and other trash and debris of just about every imaginable type.

The sugar cane fields seem to be a magnet for strange garbage – everything from beds to boats.

One of my favorite memories in the Cane fields is from Halloween weekend 2009. Bill and I were coming back from the Everglades and we stopped in Hendry County to see if we could add to our overall weekend snake count. We had just found a very large cottonmouth deep in shed (who was not happy to be disturbed) when Bill started poking around in a nearby large bush with his snake hook. Then, my heart stopped for a moment as I watched Bill – already 6 ft 2 inches tall – jump to about an 8ft height. I didn’t know what happened until a few seconds later when I spotted the offending party: a small brown rabbit. Still thinking about the angry cottonmouth, Bill had frightened the rabbit out of the bushes. He was paid, in turn, by his own frightening moment when the rabbit ran straight at him. Like I mentioned above, you never know what you will find in the sugar cane fields of Florida. You might find a beautiful rare indigo snake – or, you might find something that you can laugh about for a long time. Either way, the cane fields always produce fond memories. I can’t wait to get back out there next spring.

My First Foray into BreedingBy Tom Williams

I have always been fascinated with breeding reptiles. I think it’s an important part of our hobby and should not be overlooked. The skills learnt by the many should be passed a l o n g a s m u c h a s possible. I have been b u i l d i n g u p t o t o breeding my leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) for the last couple of years; taking the time to add to my collection while making sure they are of correct weight and health.At the beginning of the year after a cold winter and then lots of good feeding in spring, I introduced my male to 3 females that had been living together. At first the male seemed totally disinterested and more excited by the new surroundings and smells to explore, understandable I guess. The impatient part of me felt quite disheartened after expecting explosions of passion in front of my eyes, I went back to watching some boring TV.Captive breeding is one of the most important parts of our hobby. Not only breeding the animals, but breeding them correctly and giving them the care they deserve. The demand for keeping exotic pets and reptiles is growing around the world and isn’t stopping any time soon. Before we mastered the art of captive breeding, our pets came from the wild, many still do. Either being trapped as live adults or being taken as eggs from the nests of wild animals. This is an important part of breeding reptiles as some one, initially, has to take on these wild animals and learn from them. Learn their requirements, temperaments, and their breeding habits. The few highly skilled people taking on this task are important in the long term survival of captive bred and wild animals...but the more animals we can breed successfully and safely in captivity then the less animals we need to take from the wild threatening their survival. It has recently been suggested that certain animals that have been bred in captivity for long periods of time, such as leopard geckos, are becoming weaker, have less well developed immune systems, and are smaller than their wild cousins. This may be the case; the answer may be to start breeding wild lines of leopard gecko back into the captive strains to regain the wild vigour of leopard geckos of the past. I am slightly skeptical though that leopard geckos are becoming weaker due to being so far removed from their wild form, or whether the case is actually that the way a lot of animals bred today as in mass farmed, cross bred and possibly not cared for in the best manner.

So, you may ask, is breeding my geckos slightly hypocritical? Well animals that are bred by small scale breeders or hobbyists such as myself, who breed animals for the pleasure rather than the money are more likely to give the attention the animals need and care for them correctly until finding the animals a suitable owner. This isn’t to say that all large scale breeders are bad news, quite the contrary. There are many large scale breeders out there that are doing what they do in the best possible way and they are the guys we should be looking after and promoting.So back to watching TV, or getting up to make a cup of tea to be more precise. Passing the leopard gecko vivarium on my way to the kitchen and a quick glance in to say hi to the guys and to my excitement my male was certainly having a “great time” with one of the females. This was great to see although it was early and nothing to say that this would guarantee baby geckos! I witnessed a few more pairings with the same female and another female over the next few weeks and started to feel confident that one of the females was gravid. So I fashioned a laying box using a large deli cup and moist vermiculite. That very night she was in the tub digging a nest, s c a t t e r i n g d a m p vermiculite all over the vivarium. It wasn’t until a week or so later that I got up one morning to check the laying box, and there were two perfect little eggs, part buried in the vermiculite. After a few days in the incubator it became apparent to me that these eggs were possibly not fertile and began to cave in and dry up. Much to my dismay I started researching why this could happen and came to the conclusion that most leopard geckos will lay a few infertile eggs in their first years breeding. So, non detered, I waited patiently for the next eggs. Over the next couple of months both female geckos laid eggs about 2 weeks apart and all eggs went in the incubator, most were taken out empty and infertile, starting to feel a little disheartened. I finally ended up with 6 eggs, 2 from

one female and 4 from another, then both females stopped laying and I removed the male to give them a rest. So 6 eggs remained and my confidence had took a severe bashing. The 6 eggs went into the incubator as

had their predecessors, numbered on the tops, and I waited patiently, constantly monitoring the temperature and humidity to make sure these eggs had the best chance if they were fertile. After a couple of weeks the eggs were still intact, and the first eggs to go into incubation had started to grow! I was so pleased and ever so slightly more confident by this point.Then on the morning of Friday 2nd September 2011 I awoke to find 2 perfectly formed, tiny hatchling Leopard Geckos sitting in the incubator. I couldn't quite believe it and probably never thought it would actually happen. But it had, and much to my surprise the eggs that had hatched were about 2 weeks early! Over the next couple of days 2 more eggs hatched on time and I had 4 little baby's screeching at me, and of course 2 more eggs to hopefully hatch soon. I’ve kept the babies with their egg twins in tubs and now the excitement of watching them grow and develop begins.So I have made my contribution to the captive bred population of leopard geckos and it really has given me a massive sense of achievement and definitely the hunger to breed again although I know I am going to find it difficult to re home the babies but nevertheless they will go to good homes I’m sure. :)