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Taking the Jacquard Industry into the 1990sC. I. Porter aa Bonas Machine Co. Ltd, UKPublished online: 13 Jan 2009.

To cite this article: C. I. Porter (1989): Taking the Jacquard Industry into the 1990s, Textile Progress, 19:4, 8-18

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Taking the Jacquard Industry into tneC.L Porter Bonas Machine Co, Ltd, UK

It was reported in Paris that during the exhibition there were riots. Silkweavers were in the streets attempting to break up machinery. Thiscontraption of needles, cards, and springs could not work. How could theartistry of individual craftsmen be threatened? The inventor must beeliminated, his life must be threatened if he continues with his ideas. Hislife was threatened and he narrowly escaped. His name was Joseph MarieJacquard, the time was 1801, and the location was Pan's - the GreatExhibition,

All exhibitions have their surprises and certainly the last ITMAintroduced its fair share, particularly in the areas of computers andelectronics.

For many years, computers have made mill management considerably easier I'nseveral areas, particularly calculation of wages, data analysis, stockcontrol, production scheduling, spread sheets, and others. More recently,they have expanded into more practical applications with development in

more advanced design stationscolour matchingmachine loadingroboticsautomatic on loom inspection systems.

One area in which Bonas has been extremely active over the last sevenyears is the development of the electronic jacquard. CAD systems have beenavailable for several years, but although designing has been speeded up, theend product has been the familiar deck of punched cards to drive a mechanicaljacquard. Hence, many of the potential advantages were lost.

It was therefore important to improve jacquard technology to bring it intoline with the capabilities of CAD systems. The possibility of lifting endselectromagnetically has been appreciated and exploited to some extent forseveral years. A few of the traditional jacquard manufacturers offered suchsystems, although in the main they retained the conventional jacquardmechanism. In retrospect, what they were trying to do was make a mechanicaljacquard into an electronic one.

A FRESH APPROACH TO THE PROBLEM

A fresh approach was therefore required that was based on an electromagnet orsolenoid. The basic objective is to decide whether a warp end of yarn shouldbe lifted or not in order to create the required design or pattern in afabric.

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A Weaver s View

The problems facing the jacquard manufacturers &re three-fold:

(1) How to achieve reliability in view of the sheer number of solenoidsinvolved.

(2) How to generate sufficient magnetic force without making the equipmentvery expensive, or cumbersome, or both.

(3) How to achieve the speed necessary to exploit the technology.

These problems must be set against the existence of very successfulmechanical jacquards running at high efficiencies throughout the world andalso against the innate fear of "electronics" and "computers".

If these problems were to be solved in an acceptable way for the industry,the solution had to be simple. It had to be simple because our conventionalmachines, although running reliably, are occasionally a nightmare fortechnicians, containing hundreds of mechanical parts using springs, needles,hooks, and complex cam arrangements, all creating wear when running againsteach other and of course requiring lubrication with oil that inevitably findsits way onto the harness and then onto the cloth.

The solution, therefore, had to have the minimum number of moving partsand have no oil ing points, and it obviously had to "fit" into the marketplace.

THE BONAS SOLUTION

In order to minimize movement to create maximum effect, we lift an end usingthe pulley principle. Figure l(a) shows a simple pulley. If part B of thetop cord is raised to the level of point A, level C will rise to level Dbecause of the pulley arrangement (Fig. l(b)).

R B

POINT

Hg, J(a) A simp le pulley, (h) Point C rises when point B vises.

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Using this yery old idea, we have taken two flexible spring-steel hooksand a solenoid or magnet (on its side). As in a conventional jaquard we restthe hooks on knives that continually move up and down in a harmonic motion.The hooks travel either side of the solenoid, and are connected together via acord running through the top part of the pulley (Fig. 2 ) . .

Soleno id

Right hand hook

Lower Belt(anchored)

Latch

-Hook

Wa r p end

Fig. S. The Bolenoid, hook, <^rid pulley arrangement for end-lifting in theBonus eleo.tronia jaaqmrd selection mechanism.

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r\ n tra v e r s V l e w

When no energy is present, because of the movement of the knives one hookis up when the other is down and vice versa, thus having no effect down below.We require a means to ensure that we can have both hooks in the raisedposition in order to raise the heald/warp end below, as we did with our simplepulley arrangement.

It will be noticed that the hook has a rectangular hole in the top. Thesolenoid also has what we call at latch on either side. Therefore, if we canpersuade the hook to fall onto the latch, using a magnetic force when it is inthe top position, when the corresponding hook rises, the end will 11ft.

Referring to Fig. 3, the sequence works as follows.

n n n

v

Fig. 3, Hook movement sequenae and latching. (Refev to the text for detailedexplanation),

DiagramDiagramDiagram

Diagram

123

4

RHHookHookHook

Hook

updowndown

up

LHHook downHook upHook attractedby the solenoidHook up

to the latchand latched on

ENDDownDownDown

FnH

Having developed this very simple idea for lifting ends, we found thatspeeds in escess of 1200 picks pgr minute could be achieved and we wereconfident of increasing this by a further 25%. Indeed, at the Paris ITMABonas showed a mini-jacquard running at over 1500 picks per minute and severalof these units are now operating in various mills throughout the world.

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Design Objectives

What were our objectives?

(1) Reliability. The wery simple design and few moving parts ensurereliability and high efficiency. After all, there are only two movingparts required to lift the end - rather different from the mechanicalsolution!

(2) Magnetic force. By having the magnet on Its side and a long pole piece,the energy required 1s minimized, thus reducing the likelihood ofproblems from residual magnetism. Incidentally, you will note that thelift by the conventional knives is purely mechanical: it is only theselection that is electronic. It is a common misconception that we areactually using magnets to lift the end. One can see clearly that this isnot the case.

(3) Speed. By effectively completely redesigning the jacquard selectionmechanism, speeds have been obtained that have never been attainedbefore. As we shall see later, the traditional speed limitation forjacquard weaving has been jacquard speed. This is no longer so.

Having met our objectives four years ago, we appiied our minds to theapplication of technology to the needs of jacquard users - and of one group inparticular, label weavers.

The label trade has, in common with other branches of jacquard weaving,utilized the shuttle loom for generation. During the 1970s, many plants wereequipped with rapier or projectile looms weaving broad and slitting with hotwire. For high volumes, the economics of the broad loom outweighed thedisadvantage of the coarse heat-sealed edge - for the producer at any rate.As consumers, most of use have from time to time been irritated by having oneof these labels next to the skin.

Inventory and machine loading considerations caused the label maker topromote high-volume business, leaving the personalized low-volume work to theshuttle loom or, more ominously, the printer: again, we are all familiar withthose garment-care instructions that, 1nfuriatingly, disappear in the firstwash.

If we could combine the economics of the needle loom, now equipped with anelectronic jacquard, with the power of a modern computer system, not onlywould that allow the trend to be reversed but it would also actually open up anew market place for the label maker, but more about this later.

CAD systems have been around for a long time and there is now a greatvariety to choose from. Traditionally, jacquard design systems have beenlinked to punched card or printed output, which 1s in some senses aninhibitory step. However, with the evolution of the electronic jacquard, thecomputer and electronic technology can process together as a single perfectlymatched and mutually complementary unit. One extremely important point hereis that both the jacquard and computer-aided design systems have growth anddevelopments paths that must progVess 1n the same direction. This means thatin any investment decision into this type of equipment, compatibility, inparticular growth compatibility, must be considered.

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H weaver s View

The development of the electronic jacquard has itself acted as a stimulusfor development of design systems. CAD systems are now not just for thecommission card-cutters, design house, and large companies, who could justifythe previously high prices for the equipment. They have now, particularlywhen linked to the electronic jacquard, come within reach of the medium andsmall companies who have recongized the terrific marketing advantages the newequipment brings. In addition, combined with new technology becomingavailable, we have seen links to

thermal printers that give high-quality printed output in vast ranges ofcolours and in some circumstances eliminate the need for sampling;a card reader that enables one to read all existing cards (Verdol andVercenzi) and transfer them onto disk, after which one may programme anelectronic jacquard or if necessary an electronic punching machine, thusmaking even the old cards compatible with the new technology;optical disks: this is similar to a compact disk but is an 18 inch versionthat can store up to 1 gigabyte of information, or, say, approximately 3000different designs - in stark contrast to the space required for existingpaper cards!

So to briefly summarize the position.

• We have a simple and successful method for lifting and selecting ends thatoperates happily at speeds of over 1000 ppm in the label industry.

• Computer-aided design systems can link to the electronic jacquard andprovide the complete designing/jacquard package.

The natural successor to the label loom jacquard is a full width 1344 hookmodel which has already been running since 1985 in a tie-weaving mill (Fig.

Fig, 4, The modem etectronio jaaquavd.

Fig, 4(a). After perfecting the jaaquard at narrow width, the next step wasthe installation in 1985 of the world's first fully electronic jacquard at atie-weaving mill, running at 410 ppm. This ie a notoriously difficultindustry for the jacquard because of very heavy lifts (up to 98%), many ends,and frequent design changes.

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Fig, 4(h} , The jacquard has the minimum number of moving parts* Apart fromthe lifting arms and knives, there are only two moving parts, these being thetwo flexible hooks that run either side of the solenoids. The photographshows a full complement of 28 solenoid boards, each one containing 48solenoids (28 x 46 = 1344)* Any number can he fitted, depending on the numberof hooks required* No lubrciation is required in the jacquard, which meansthat there is nc possibility of oil dripping onto the harness or cloth.

Fig. 4(e}. The design isstored on EPBOM - no moreworries about punchedThe EPROM is a reliable mediumthat is not sensitive tovibrKition or corruption. Itcan also be erased and re-usedover and over again. Up to3000 cards may be stored oneach EPWM and a total of fourEPROMs may be inserted intothe programming unit at onetime*

Fig. 4(d). The programmingunit is installed at loomlevel; to change a design, anew job is recalled from theEPBOM and the number ofrepeats is simply keyed in*The loom will changeautomatically from one designto another^ but more oftentitan not weft colours or pickrates have to be changed,which means that a stop ispreferable.

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^ 4(e), The programmingimit also gives valuableproduction monitoringinformation; for example, fourshift data onpicks/repeats/wa-rp/We ftbreaks^ run time, stop time, atotal for all shifts, currentJob status in terms of Jobsnot completed, a directory ofdesigns ov the EFEOM, a dohbyfunction should the jacquardJust be used as a dohby, andalso a job-schedulingprogramme.

IMPLICATIONS

Fig- 4(f), Because of thecompact nature of theJaaquard, only a lightweightgantry is required, which alsomeans that a lower roof heightis required in comparison withconventional machines.

Production

The technical side is now clear, but what are the implications of the newjacquard from a production and marketing standpoint? Starting withproduction, one can immediately think of the following.(1) Speed. Comparing a conventional multispace shuttle loom weaving labels

and running at 140 ppm, and equating both speed (in the area of 1000 ppm(and the number of pieces being woven, one can normally say thatproduction is at least doubled using the electronic jacquard needle loom.

From the broad loom jacquard viewpoint, loom speed is now thelimiting factor; previously it was the jacquard that could not cope withthe high loom speeds, owing to Its cumbersome and complex nature. Onemust naturally bear In m1nd yarn capabilities, but if the yarn and loomcan cope with the additional speed, then the jacquard can.

Already the loom makers are being pushed to increase their speeds,and where they have (for example, on the new Sulzer airjets or existingGiinne machines), over 600 ppm and up to six-colour weft selection havebeen made possible. Of course, when you reach this speed you areoutrunning the dobbies and we have already experienced factories withboth jacquard and dobby preferring to buy jacquard (irrespective of thecost) because they also have the advantages of additional flexibility.

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To many companies speed is not the most important factor. The following arepossibly more significant.

(2) Elimination of cards. No cards are now required, since they have beenreplaced by a tiny EPROM module (Fig. 4(b)). This is inserted at loomlevel (Fig. 4(d)), so that no longer does one have to climb up into thejacquard with a cumbersome card that has to be fitted to the machine.Naturally, this means that problems of torn cards/ and card mending areeliminated. Card correction is easier (done on the computer) and,possibly most importantly, card storage space is reduced dramatically forexample, by using the optical disk). No longer are special racking, cardstoremen, or huge amounts of space required.

(3) Size. The jacquard itself is comparatively small and lightweight whenset alongside conventional machines. It can fit under a lower roof andit also runs more smoothly, even on fabrics with very heavy lifts, whichmeans that 1ightweight gantries can be used because there is minimalvibration - a big problem in some jacquard weaving mills. The vibrationis low because of the simple harmonic motion of the jacquard, which meansthat no vibration is transmitted to the harness or the warps and hencethat finer-quality warps can be used at higher speeds. One silk weaverhas told us that a warp he could not use on a mechanical jacquard ranyery successfully on the electronic machine.

(4) Benefits to the Designer. A computer-aided patterning system that canautomatically take over the mundane, boring parts of fabric design allowsthe designer to concentrate on more imaginative and creative work.Naturally, the computer allows one to store a whole host of information,be they floral designs, washing instructions, or, of course, complexground weaves/binders. They can all be recalled from disk immediatelyand inserted into a design. Over a period of time, a complete library ofinformation can be built up, which by sensible selling may be used forother designs in the future.

From a copying standpoint (after all, many designs are merely part ofor copies of something else), cameras certainly come into their own. Thequality of the original is important in order to reduce the need forediting later, but even if the broad outline can be obtained, much timecan be saved.

The proof of the pudding is that designers now talk hours rather thandays.

(5) Benefits to the Weaver. In terms of production, all the weaver has to dois put in the EPROM and type in the quantity required. In terms ofmaintenance, the inside of the jacquard is completely dry, thuseliminating all problems associated with lubrication. In terms of benthooks, because the jacquard is so accessible, these changes can be madein minutes.

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A weaver s Vlew

Promotion and Marketing

Briefly, these are the significant production benefits. On the marketingside, it is interesting to see the effect over the last four years ofinstalling electronic equipment in label weaving; and, since the beginning of1987, the broad cloth weavers have been taking advantage of the benefits thenew equipment can give, although our experience shows that it does take alittle time for these benefits to be realized. To begin with it is probablyworth considering the impact of the article or fabric itself.

(1) Woven or printed? The purpose of a label is not only to be informative:it also has a vital marketing function in promoting the store, brand ormanufacturer. More importantly, it sets off the article itself andtherefore a good-quality woven label, which everyone always looks at,implies a good-quality garment. So, by switching from printed to wovenlabels (taking advantage of the technological advances made), quality andhence price can be added to the article. In the broad-cloth world, weare experiencing a trend towards more traditional, lasting fabrics. Notonly is a woven article no easier to design or easier to weave, but ashort run has become more economical to produce.

(2) Speed, Faster turn round time both in terms of design and production hasgiven users of this equipment a definite marketing edge over theircompetitors. A recently installed plant in Europe was used to givingdeliveries based on shuttle loom production. I think they surprised eventhemselves at the speed at which the order was completed. This alsohelps to keep the customer happy!

(3) Order quantity. Everyone wants a large order than can run for years andyears without changes. Unfortunately, today's market does not allow thisto happen, except in \/ery rare circumstances. Even when it does, pricesd^re cut right back. The new equipment has, however, given companieslower unit costs and higher unit value, because for short-order businessone can always charge a premium price owing to the inconvenience (orshould I say apparent inconvenience?) of changing the loom over for onlycL short period of time. In one installation, for example, if necessarythe company is now not reluctant to promote its short-order business on afast-turn round basis because, having satisfied the customer, heultimately obtains the larger more profitable future business.

Short orders have traditionally been the headache of productionpersonnel, but because of the capabilities of the new equipment it is nowviable to run off very short quantities of woven articles. It isinteresting briefly to describe the development of this. In labelweaving, it all started with some companies wanting to put a coding ontheir labels. Marks & Spencer use a unique garment recognition code onmany of their labels. This was constantly changing, but the main part ofthe label was not. The solution was a jacquard that could automaticallychange from one code to another without stopping. (This is now a

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lO

standard piece of equipment that is already in use throughout the world:a pattern control unit.)

On the broad cloth front, jacquards have already been installed at acashmere scarf weave who will put your name or motif into a scarf. Ofcourse if you were really into one upmanship you would want to have apersonalized suit: how about having your name discreetly woven into apinstrip? Personalization may be taking 1t too far, but store ordesigner identification has immense market potential not only 1n terms ofscarves, suits, and linings but also in towels, napkins, damask, straps,and promotional material.

4) Sampi1ng. For special customers, one can actually sample while they arewatching. Some customers are impossible: they are concerned about theshape or colour of a flower, the position of a logo, or perhaps theeffect of binding a point. On a modern computer system, changing thedesign is no problem. Why not bring the customer Into one's designcentre, do the final touches with him and weave it on the loom? There isno paraphernalia about cards, cutting, etc.; all one has to do is recallthe pattern from disk, make the necessary change and reprogram the EPROM- about 5 minutes work, depending on how large the change is.

Incidentally, while it is technically possible to do this at theloom, we firmly believe it is sound policy not to do this, to eliminateany temptation for weavers (who are often frustrated designers), to altera design when no one is looking!

CONCLUSION

Session 1 of the conference was entitled Quality versus Quantity: Is it nolonger a compromise? Quality can often be confused with exclusivity and highprice.

I hope I have demonstrated that mechanically, or should I sayelectronically, equipment Is now available that can provide exclusivity,variety, speciality, call 1t what you will, more effectively than ever before.It does this more simply than the simplest shedding motion and 1s far quickerto change than the old, traditional mechanical jacquards.

It is a fitting coincidence that it was 1n Paris that Monsieur Jacquardexhibited that first revolutionary mechanical jacquard that caused riots andthat last month in the same place we saw the equipment that will take thejacquard industry into the 1990s/

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