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TABLE OF CONTENTS

CINCHY HORSE ............................................................................................................................................................................... 2

HEAD TOSSING ............................................................................................................................................................................... 4

HORSE BALKING ............................................................................................................................................................................ 5

HORSE EATING GRASS .................................................................................................................................................................. 7

HORSE HEAD TOSSING ................................................................................................................................................................. 9

HORSE REFUSES TO STAND STILL .............................................................................................................................................. 11

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CINCHY HORSE

WHEN YOUR HORSE BARGES INTO YOU OR RUNS OVER YOU, HE NORMALLY EVOKES ONE OF TWO REACTIONS ON YOUR PART: FEAR OR OFFENSE

Being claustrophobic by nature, some horses have terrible trouble with a cinch or girth. Some will try to nip or kick you while being girthed while others will freeze in terror, flop down or flip over and even lie catatonic, paralyzed with fear. With this type of horse, bucking in fear is to be highly expected when you ride him. Most problems with a cinchy horse originate because the horse has not had enough preparation and desensitization to the new feeling of having a saddle put on and cinched up for the first time. They aren’t given time to get used to it, and, if it has been done rudely in the past, it might be that the horse is blaming you for something that happened long ago. Either way, the good news is that solving this problem with a horse isn’t all that hard. All it takes is time, repetition and a very polite approach to girthing. Solving Your Cinchy Horse Problem the Parelli Natural Horse Training Way The foundation of Parelli Natural Horsemanship is understanding your horse and the basis for his behavior. So, first of all, you need to know if your horse is reacting out of annoyance or fear.

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• Annoyed horses are the ones that tend to nip when they’re cinchy. If your horse is annoyed about being girthed, this is the easiest problem to fix. Simply give him a cookie or carrot when he turns to nip you. Just when he thinks you are going to slap him, and he’s ready to hate you more, you give him a treat! In addition, learn how to adjust your cinch gradually. Don’t bale it into him, or he has every right to be bothered, and no amount of treats is going to change that. In our Safe Ride DVD, the issue of cinching/girthing is addressed, but even more important, you learn how to get your horse in the mood to be saddled. That’s an interesting concept most people miss!

• Fearful horses are the ones who hold their breath, appear to freeze up and get really tense. If your horse is afraid, then you probably should not be saddling him until you have gained his trust. Once trust is developed, you need to learn to communicate with your horse so you can move him around, first without the saddle, and later with it. The fearful cinchy horse is definitely the more challenging problem to solve, and it’s usually more ‘introverted’ horses that are cinchy. Take your time with this; it can be very dangerous, but great results are worth waiting for. If you’d like to understand more about introverted horses and other horse personality types, please see our Horsenality™ page to learn more.

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HEAD TOSSING

MOST HORSES TOSS THEIR HEAD AS A NEGATIVE REACTION TO TIGHT REINS OR A PAINFUL OR UNCOMFORTABLE BIT. Horses are basically claustrophobic animals so they have a lot of trouble with confinement…and tight reins are nothing if not confining. The type of horse most given to head tossing is usually a fairly high energy, forward-aholic horse. People often find themselves hanging onto the reins to try to control these horses, but the more you hold them back with tight reins, the worse the horse’s head tossing gets. This can even lead to rearing and plunging as horses frantically try to free themselves of this terrifying constriction. The Parelli Natural Horsemanship approach offers some very helpful horse training techniques for getting horses to manage their own fear and impulsiveness. In fact, this is one the primary topics covered in our Calm Ride DVD. You’ll learn a lot about how to prepare the horse on the ground first so that he’s confident and calm. Then you’ll see the strategies that work best to keep the horse calm once you’re in the saddle, including stopping the habit of using two reins for controlling the horse. Two Reins for Communication, One Rein for Control “Two reins for communication, one rein for control” is one of the favorite sayings of Parelli natural horse training. Unfortunately, pulling back with two tight reins is something humans instinctively want to do when they feel their horse getting out of control. However, in reality it makes things much, much worse and increases – not decreases – the horse’s head tossing behavior. Using just a single rein disengages and relaxes the horse. It is a great habit for a rider to adopt, and is particularly important for a rider who’s experiencing his or her horse doing quite a bit of head tossing due to tight reins. The basic principles of natural horsemanship include the belief that a horse’s behavior is always communicating something – and it’s our job to figure out what the horse is trying to tell us. The more you learn to read and respond appropriately to horses, the more success and the less frustration you will have. In cases where the horse is exhibiting what we humans think of as “negative” behavior, the horse is usually acting out of a sense of fear or a need to dominate. By responding in ways that make them more fearful or feel more dominated – such as using too tight reins – we are doing the exact opposite of what will calm our horse and get us the results we want. So think about trying the Parelli method instead!

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HORSE BALKING

WHAT DO YOU DO WITH A HORSE REFUSING TO GO FORWARD – OR GO ANY DIRECTION FOR THAT MATTER? PEOPLE THINK OF THEIR HORSE BALKING AS A SIGN THAT HE’S DULL OR LAZY OR STUBBORN, BUT THAT’S JUST NOT THE CASE.

Natural horsemanship asks us to look deeper, to figure out why and understand what’s really going on.

Horses have three systems that operate in a specific order: the RESPECT system, the IMPULSION system, and the FLEXION system. A car’s engine also has three systems – air, fuel, fire – and if one system isn’t working, the engine won’t operate properly. So it is with horses too.

Correcting Horse Balking Behavior If IMPULSION isn’t functioning, check the prior system – RESPECT. If you have a horse refusing to go, you need to get more respect from your horse. The very first level of Parelli Natural Horse Training is about developing respect and eliminating opposition reflex. Through working with the horse on the ground using the Seven Games, and developing FreeStyle riding skills, the horse’s attitude improves because of the new level of communication, trust, and respect. Horse balking behavior really shifts in Level 2, which is about positive reflexes and includes many strategies for improving IMPULSION.

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Getting the “Go” Part Right Most people are told to kick a horse to go, which is ridiculous when you think about it from a horse’s point of view. Imagine if you were kicked in the ribs on the way to the dance floor…what would your attitude be towards that dance partner? Would you even want to go?

By using four distinct phases of polite assertiveness with your horse, he can quickly become a willing partner, happy to take your lead rather than balking at every turn.

• Phase 1 – Smile with all your cheeks! Take a long focus, stretch your hand out in front of you with the reins, and tighten your cheeks. If the horse has not moved forward from this suggestion, continue through the phases and be ready to release as soon as he offers forward movement.

• Phase 2 – Squeeze with your legs, starting at the top, then all the way down to your heels (turn your toes outward to make smooth contact). This is not a strong squeeze. If you are straining or getting cramps, it’s too strong! Remember, a horse can feel a fly land on him.

• Phase 3 – Smooch while holding the squeeze, do not let go with your legs.

• Phase 4 – Spank. Start by spanking yourself. Lightly slap your shoulders from side to side with the end of a rope (like the 12-foot Lead section of the Horseman’s Reins on the Natural Hackamore). Allow the rope to grow longer and keep up the flapping rhythm until it starts touching your horse on the sides of his hindquarters, letting it get progressively stronger if he has not responded.

The moment your horse responds, release your legs, quit spanking, and go forward with him. If he stops or slows, repeat the phases again. Begin each time at Phase 1, and be prepared to go to Phase 4. Finally, be sure there’s enough ‘life’ in your body when you ride. Think about how fast you want your horse to go and bring up enough life in your body to simulate that…then let the squeezing, smooching and spanking support it. Your horse will learn very quickly how to get in tune with you. Common Mistakes When Working To Correct Horse Balking Behavior

• Try to avoid kicking from habit, or you’ll quickly lose whatever respect you just earned. Really keep a watch out for this.

• Don’t keep squeezing and/or spanking after the horse has made the effort to go forward. This feels unfair and confuses horses because they won’t know what the right behavior is.

• Be sure to put slack in the reins. It is a common habit to put contact in the reins when the horse goes forward, but this confuses the poor horse who’s trying to do the right thing. Level 2 Program techniques can really help with this.

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HORSE EATING GRASS

WHAT THERE ARE TWO THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN FACED WITH A HORSE EATING GRASS WHILE YOU’RE ON HIS BACK. ONE IS WHERE IS THE GRAZING TAKING PLACE? THE OTHER IS WHAT TO DO IF YOU WANT TO STOP YOUR HORSE.

Here at Parelli, we take a natural horsemanship approach to training horses, which means we seek to correct horse problems in ways that are fair, friendly and use psychology and communication rather than punishment. We also seek to understand horse behavior from the horse’s point of view.

If you do this, you’ll realize that when your horse is surrounded by delicious grass, of course he’s going to want to eat it, but then he gets punished for it. That’s like taking a child into a candy store and expecting him to have enough self-control to ignore all that candy. That’s a heck of a lot to ask!

The natural horse training solution for a horse eating grass is to be understanding and considerate of horses, which might mean allowing some grazing time before asking for a horse’s full attention. By allowing this now and then – but only when you invite it – you’re being a considerate partner and a firm leader. But be sure to give your horse permission rather than just letting him plunge his head down whenever he feels like it. Invite him by using Game #2 of the Parelli Seven Games – the Porcupine Game. Simply lower your horse’s head to the ground when you want him to graze. If you never let your horse eat grass while you’re riding, he’ll take every opportunity to lunge at the grass, even unseating a rider to get at it. But if you’ve proved to your horse that you’re not an unreasonable person, and that you’re considerate of his desires, he is less likely to resent you or resist your attempts to shift his behavior. How To Stop A Horse Eating Grass First, you must clearly establish your alpha position. Our Seven Games DVD is the best way we know of to do this. Next, you begin to use cause and effect relationships. When your horse lowers his head, allow him to start munching without even touching the reins or rope, then smooch and lightly begin tapping his hindquarters, becoming firmer and firmer until his head pops up. Stop tapping right away and rub. At first it may be a surprised reaction and his head may go right down again. Just repeat the smooch and progressively firmer tapping until his head comes up, then rub him again. Very quickly, a quiet smooch is all it will take to ask your horse to lift his head from eating grass. He will learn to graze when you invite him to, and to stand respectfully until you do. He’ll stop to think whether he’s been invited to eat before just hauling you off for a snack.

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Patience and Persistence Prepare to out-persist your horse on this. Once your phased firmness and timing of the rub is effective, the change is lasting, and it sure beats the old habit of pulling on the reins or the lead rope to stop a horse eating grass – not to mention the, resentment that builds in response to your lack of regard for his desires.

The Parelli Natural Horsemanship approach includes understanding the horse’s desire, clearly establishing expectations, and learning to communicate without punishment. It’s very effective. Hang in there; smile, whistle, and have fun learning together.

If you start getting mad or impatient, remember that it’s nothing personal. He’s been munching grass much longer than you’ve been asking him to stop.

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HORSE HEAD TOSSING

HORSE HEAD TOSSING IS A COMMON PROBLEM FOR WHICH PEOPLE OFTEN WANT A SOLUTION IN THE FORM OF A TECHNIQUE OR DEVICE TO PHYSICALLY PREVENT THE HORSE FROM TOSSING HIS HEAD.

But natural horse training takes a different approach. We ask, “What is causing your horse’s head tossing?” and, “How can you better prepare the horse so that he doesn’t feel the need to throw and toss his head?”

Horses are frank and truthful animals. Through their body language, they tell you what they’re thinking and feeling. A horse that tosses his head is exhibiting displaced behavior. For example, the head tossing might be a way your horse is telling you that he wants to go faster than you are allowing his feet to go and so there is a disconnect – or lack of unity – between the horse’s mental state/desire and his physical state. Or it might indicate a lack of unity/communication with the rider.

The foundation of Parelli Natural Horsemanship is developing the relationship/communication between the horse and rider so we become more knowledgeable and perceptive about what they’re trying to communicate.

Here are some Parelli approaches to solving horse head tossing problems:

• We help you to develop more of a partner relationship with your horse. One of the keys to this is learning to “play” with a horse on the ground. By observing how horses play with each other to establish communication, leadership, relationship and respect, Pat Parelli developed a series of Seven Games.

• What do “games” and “relationships” have to do with stopping horses from tossing their heads? This approach to horse training works on the horse’s attitude and teaches the human to become a leader and partner that the horse will understand, respect and follow.

• Once your horse is successfully partnering with you on the ground, the next thing to undertake is the proper use of reins. We advocate two reins for communication and only one for control. Holding a horse back with two reins almost guarantees that he’ll toss his head or push on the bit because he becomes more claustrophobic and it engages his hindquarters.

• Next, become more conscious about your riding style. Is it casual or concentrated? 90% of what you do with a horse should be with a long, casual rein. To ask too much of a horse on concentrated reins is like holding your dance partner in a formal dance position without letting up.

• Be sensitive about what you are asking and use the principle of “approach and retreat” to give your horse relief. If you’re already riding with loose reins and your horse is still tossing his head, it may be a negative conditioned response. If you understand the psychology of this and see it as a mental glitch, that will help you help the horse get through it.

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• Also watch what you’re putting in your horse’s mouth. A snaffle is the best bit for teaching because it’s designed for lateral flexion. If you find yourself going to a shank bit for more control, this is not going to help! You need better lateral flexion and more respect first, so check out where you’re at through the Seven Games.

• Shank bits need to be used for greater refinement, NOT control! They are designed to improve vertical flexion and engagement, which you’ll want from a partner that has already learned to use strength in a positive way. Tie-downs and martingales are artificial solutions rather than natural horsemanship. Parelli offers the “bigger brain not the bigger bit” approach.

The goal of Parelli horse training is to help people become more knowledgeable around horses so they don’t have to resort to mechanical gadgets for problems like head tossing. Instead, they can learn to develop harmony and unity through understanding, communication, and psychology.

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HORSE REFUSES TO STAND STILL

WHEN YOUR HORSE WON’T STAND STILL, IT CAN BE SO FRUSTRATING AND SO MADDENING.

He circles, invades, pulls, even rears up. Sometimes it can even be a little unnerving. Humans are small in comparison to the size of a horse, and a restless, restive horse can feel dangerous. There are two things that can help your horse not only stand still, but want to – and they are both the exact opposite of what most people do.

• When your horse refuses to stand still, instead of holding him tight and jerking on the halter, give him more rope and get him to move more! It’s called reverse psychology and it works. Give your horse at least four feet of rope, put your back against a wall or fence and then play the Driving Game, sending your horse quickly from one side of the fence to the other. When a horse is full of adrenaline, holding him close makes him feel claustrophobic and panicky. By giving him more rope, you stop aggravating this feeling.

• When a horse needs to move his feet, the more you try to stop him the worse it gets. So do the opposite…get him to move his feet faster than he wants and pretty soon the adrenaline comes down and all he wants to do is stand still. Oh…and don’t let him go in circles. The fact that he has to go back and forth, faster than he wants to is the secret to this exercise. This can take a little time if it’s an extreme horse, but even though a few minutes might feel like an eternity to you it’s a drop in the bucket of time where a horse is concerned.

One of the great trust and confidence builders in the Parelli method of natural horsemanship is our Seven Games DVD. Starting with the first game – the Friendly Game – and progressing through the series is a natural way of building a partnership/relationship between human and horse. The Driving Game we refer to above is also one of the Seven Games.

One of the common mantras of Parelli natural horse training is “Take the time it takes.” So many people don’t take the time it takes to do things right, and end up spending so much more time dealing with the horse’s problem on an ongoing basis. If you invest the time it takes to understand why your horse refuses to stand still and then do what it takes to naturally discharge the underlying cause, you’ll have a horse who stands still with no problem.

A happy, calm, peaceful, satisfied and relaxed horse. A happy, calm, peaceful, satisfied and relaxed human. That’s what natural horsemanship will get you every time!

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