7/31/2019 TA Unit 6 Africa

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Textile Art Unit 6

Arpita Mallik (MCC) 23.12.2011 Page 1 of 2

AFRICANorth Africa

Wool was dominant and was marked by women. There is a rich tradition of weaving andembroidery. Turkish elements like gold embroidered wedding caftans are found throughout NorthAfrica Traditional costume is draped and sewn. Decorations are mostly reserved for belts, head

dresses, veils and jewellery. Belts form a part of marriage gifts, childbirth, at circumcision and

mourning and therefore have some of the finest weave and embroidery.Every Nomad girl was shameful embroidery was learnt by middle and upper class urban girls.

Men used to weave and embroider for selling; women worked for their families and sold the surplus.Embroidery on leather and gold embroidery was done by men as it involved more strength. Elaborate

braiding, silk buttons and tassels were also done by men.

1) *Gold Embroidery:Commonly found in Libya to Morocco. Gold thread was couched in elaborate scrolls on to abackground of silk or velvet, commonly dark blue, black, dark green, garnet or violet to make

marriage caftans, house trappings, belts, slippers, bags and pouches, pale colours especiallyblue and white were used to make circumcision costumes for little boys. Embroidery on

Moroccan bridal and festive dresses is similar to 16th

century European dress. The bell-shapedwrap over skirt is heavily embroidered in gold with asymmetric rising sun pattern.

The marriage costume is Tunisia was worked with silver or gold washed sequins and

tubular beads in wide range of designs. Embroidery was done mainly on satin. Women inmiddle age used to burn her wedding dress to retrieve silver; hence not many samples aresurviving. Couching with flat metal thread was also practiced.

2) *Silk Embroidery:

Done in all places near the coast. Designs varied widely from the strict geometricmonochrome red, purple, blue or green, with stylized flowers and pomegranates. Their classicembroidery was done on yellow satin in red, white, blue, black and green. Wall hangings,

cushions and bed covers were made.There is a satin stitch embroidery done in 40-50 shades of one or two colours worked is

stylized flowers or clouds done on marriage curtains.

3) Other types of Embroidery:

Wool on wool embroidery is common curtain areas. Appliqu are also found onhangings and tents made in Morocco, green and red being the favorite combination. Motifs are

geometric or highly stylized and may include calligraphy

4) Weaving:

Weaving was traditionally done in North America. Fine silk was used for brocade

weaving. Different kind of wool was combined with cotton. Mens robes and cloaks weremade of finest cream colored camel wool woolen cloaks were also dyed in natural dyes withterracotta, active and Roman purple colour.

In some places, womens veils were woven-white or girls, red for married women and

blue for elderly. They were patterned with finely worked, stylized motifs-combs, snakes,scorpions etc.,

Kelims are the form of North African weaving. These are a kind of rug. The patternscould be flat, complicated geometrical pattern with bands of knots, tassels, large sequins, silkknots and glass beads. There are two kinds of rugs-high piled and simple rugs.

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Textile Art Unit 6

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5) West Africa:Women use single headle loon and men use double headle loom for weaving. Double

headle loom produces narrow strips of fabrics which have to be joined together to form broadercloth. These fabrics are used as wall hangings, on ceremonial occasions, for funerals, paymentof bride wealth and also as an item of trade.

In Ghana, elaborate weaves are produced, using silk and cotton in a wide variety of

colours.In Nigeria, the Mausa Mans grown wad made of a series of narrow cotton strips sewn

together to create body of gown, Neck is reinforce with plaited band. Triangular pieces arefitted around the neck in front. A large pocket is added on the left of the gown, which is the

focus of elaborate embroidered designs. Embroidery is associated more with spread of islam.North and Saharan Africa attach short texts as talismanic devices. Drawn and painted designs

are also found on textiles.Resist dyed textiles are found in Nigeria, where resist is applied by tying or stitching or

applying resist agent. Pattern is created by dipping in dye solution. The designs include

picture of winged horse on which prophet Mohammad flew from Mecca to Jerusalem.The practice of unraveling imported cloth and reweaving the yarn is well established.

The Equatorial Forest:The loom is simple, upright and single headle variety and only raffia yarn is used. It is mainly

available and simple preparation. The designs lack complexity. In Zaire, a type of cut pile fabricknown as Kasai velvets are made with raffia thread. Different coloured strands of raffia thread.Different coloured strands of raffiya are introduced with needle and taken under and up again on the

surface. The thread is pulled through until only small amount of loose thread remains visible, which isthen cut off.

Eastern Africa and the off-shore Island:Evidence of traditional textile production is patchy here. There are some evidence of cotton

weaving in Zambia and Zimbabwe. In the island of Madagascar, indigenous textile industry has stillsurvived and continues using traditional handlooms. Their fabric is characterized by extensive use of

warp stripes after 1830s, online dyes replaced natural dyes.Madagascar is best known for its burial shrouds. These are used to rewrap corpses in

elaborate second burial ceremonies similar to those that occur in South East Asia. They could be of

any colour other than red and made from indigenous silk.