ity to its dreams by making an industry ofthem.

You tend to forget about reveries, though,when the 101 freeway slows to a crawl, as itdid when I began to navigate the road inHollywood this spring. Time on my hands, Ilooked up and caught a glimpse of the 73-story U.S. Bank Tower, referred to as Li-brary Tower by many locals for the 90-year-old actual library and architectural gem

across the street that it dwarfs.Completed in the late 1980s, the iconic

Bank Tower is one of those structures thatsneak up in vistas to remind you that yes,you’re in Los Angeles, in case you werewondering. It was the tallest building westof the Mississippi for 27 years, until theWilshire Grand Center was completed thisyear. Designed by the architect Henry N.

In Los Angeles, Art Deco JewelsExuberant reminders ofthe days when moviesruled the city’s economy.

By JOHN L. DORMAN

TREVOR TONDRO FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

CONTINUED ON PAGE 8

California’s broad landscape suggests end-less possibility, a chance to realize yourdreams. You can backpack in the KlamathNational Forest within Siskiyou County.You can find a slice of Denmark in the SantaYnez Valley. Or you can immerse yourself inthe glittery landscape of the Hollywoodhills, the place that has applied a practical-

The Art Deco elements of LosAngeles Union Station,completed in 1939, are subtle.

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DISCOVERY ADVENTURE ESCAPE

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Call it India’s financial epicenter, glamourhub or culinary capital — but whatever youdo, don’t call it “Mumbai.” The coastal me-tropolis may have changed its name fromBombay to Mumbai over two decades ago,but judging by their refusal to adopt its us-age, locals are ignoring the memo. Morethan 20 million call the dynamic city home,

and it feels as if there’s a piece of it for every-one — from the families gathering aroundthe cotton candy vendors on ChowpattyBeach to the fashionistas browsing exclu-sive boutiques in renovated heritage build-ings in Kala Ghoda. You’re likely to spendmuch of your weekend in bumper-to-bump-er traffic, but with a bit of planning, you cansample the sights, glitter and art of Mumbai— er, Bombay — in one weekend.

Friday•1 4 P.M. STROLL THROUGH HISTORYGet a taste of what the city was like when itwas still Bombay — bastion of the BritishRaj. Meander through the city’s southernreaches, starting at the Gateway of India,overlooking the Arabian Sea: Completed in1924, this iconic monument was built to com-

36 HoursM U M B A I , I N D I A

From beach to gardens to boutiques, a dynamic city beckons.

By SARAH KHAN

CONTINUED ON PAGE 13Hanging out at sunset on the promenade along Marine Drive on the Arabian Sea.

PORAS CHAUDHARY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

8 TR THE NEW YORK TIMES, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 9, 2016

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more than an hour of hand-churning. Fla-vors include sapota, mango, fig and sitafal;cups cost 60 rupees.

•6 1 P.M. LEISURELY LUNCHSet amid the quiet lanes of the Ballard Es-tate business district, Britannia is one of thefew remaining cafes purveying Parsi disheslike berry pulao (from 350 rupees) and mut-ton dhansak (650 rupees). The third-gener-ation owner Boman Kohinoor is a fixture be-neath the whirring ceiling fans, and, thougha bit hard of hearing, he’ll chat with patronsabout his British royal fandom, as evi-denced by photos of Queen Elizabeth II andWill and Kate lining the walls; the 94-year-old fulfilled a lifelong dream when, thanksto a social media campaign, he earned anaudience with the Duke and Duchess ofCambridge on a recent visit to India. Formore contemporary cravings, the San Fran-cisco chef Alex Sanchez’s much-lauded Ta-ble in Colaba serves hearty global comfortfare: hoisin-glazed pork belly buns (750 ru-pees) and shrimp tacos with chile-limemayo (725 rupees).

memorate the visit of King George V andQueen Mary. Then turn your attention to itsneighbor, the 1903 Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, acakelike confection that serves as a fine ex-ample of the Mughal-meets-Gothic style ofarchitecture known as Indo-Saracenic.Work your way north through Colaba andalong Mahatma Gandhi Road into nearbyKala Ghoda, admiring the hodgepodge ofstately buildings that line the pedestrian-friendly districts: the bulbous dome of theChhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangra-halaya (formerly the Prince of Wales Mu-seum), the Gothic Elphinstone College, theneo-Classical Army & Navy Building, andthe powder-blue 1884 Keneseth EliyahooSynagogue.

•2 8 P.M. QUIRKY EATSThe New York chef and Top Chef Masterswinner Floyd Cardoz returned to his Mum-bai roots when he opened Bombay Canteenlast year, a lighthearted tribute to the city heleft nearly three decades ago. Book aheadfor the executive chef Thomas Zacharias’splayful offerings in this campy, colorfulspace: Indian “tacos” with chicken tikka onfenugreek flatbreads (275 rupees, about$4); Kerala-style roasted fish swaddled in abehemoth banana leaf (600 rupees); andcoffee rasgulla with salted caramel icecream (350 rupees). The witty Hindi catch-phrases and Bollywood references embla-zoned across the walls and on the servers’T-shirts might go over your head, but thebold flavors won’t bypass your taste buds.

Saturday•3 7 A.M. CRUISE THE COASTDrive up the coast before the traffic picks upsteam. There are plenty of places for a photoop: Start at Nariman Point, the heart of thefinancial district; work your way up MarineDrive, also known as the Queen’s Necklace,where you’ll see families strolling or seatedalong the promenade (along with the occa-sional cozy couple); pop out at ChowpattyBeach before the crowds descend; anddrive into upscale Malabar Hills to theHanging Gardens before crossing over tothe scenic lookout at Kamala Nehru Park.Then cut through busy Peddar Road andemerge near the Haji Ali Dargah. Set on anisle just off the coast, the 15th-century mau-soleum houses the remains of the Sufi saintPir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari and is connectedto the mainland by a half-mile-long cause-way, access to which depends entirely onthe tides.

•4 10 A.M. MUSEUM BREAKThe Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj VastuSangrahalaya museum in Kala Ghoda ispopular, but travelers pressed for timeshould head to Byculla. Like Bombay/Mumbai, the striking Dr. Bhau Daji LadMumbai City Museum has gone throughsome name changes in its long history. Themuseum opened to the public at its presentsite as the Victoria and Albert Museum in1872; in 1975, it was given its current name,in honor of a prominent physician and phi-lanthropist. The high Victorian interiorsshowcase Indian crafts and design — in-cluding lacquerware, silver, bronze, woodcarving and more — while the upstairs gal-leries are dedicated to the history of Mum-bai. Admission: 100 rupees for foreigners.

•5 11 A.M. SHOP FOR A STEALBreeze past the lanes filled with old carparts and head straight for Mutton Street,the heart of Mumbai’s Chor Bazaar —Thieves’ Market. The stretch of dusty an-tiques shops is where Bollywood propstylists scavenge for faded photographs, ro-tary telephones and other props to recreatea bygone era. Grandfather clocks and furni-ture aren’t the most practical souvenirs, soseek out shops brimming with posters andrecords for classic Indian films. Then stopby Taj Ice Creams, around for about 120years, for a treat. The shop is usuallymanned by one of the owners, the Ice-creamwalla brothers, and they’re happy toinvite you to the back to see how the creamydesserts are made — a single batch takes

•7 2:30 P.M. FASHION FIXThe bylanes of Colaba and Kala Ghoda arebrimming with boutiques. While the con-cept shop Le Mill specializes in globalbrands like Chloé and Balenciaga, the newColaba location, hidden behind a non-descript facade, also carries Indian labelslike Janavi and NorBlack NorWhite. Acrossthe street, in the Art Deco Dhanraj Mahalcomplex, a new outpost of Jaipur’s venera-ble Gem Palace features bold colors by thedesigner Marie-Anne Oudejans and plentyof bling. In Kala Ghoda, browse housewaresat Nicobar, and cutting-edge dresses andblazers at Obataimu, an atelier-boutiquethat spends much of the year on the roadgaining inspiration from destinations likeParis, London and Tokyo. If cheap trinketsare more your style, then pop in and out ofthe shops lining the Colaba Causeway,where you’ll find sandals, dresses and fakejewelry aplenty. Bargaining is de rigueur.

•8 6:30 P.M. CREATIVE COCKTAILSAfter introducing Mumbai to molecular In-

dian gastronomy with Masala Library a fewyears ago, the restaurateur Zorawar Kalraunveiled the city’s buzziest new cocktail barin March, serving up more molecular magicwith MasalaBar. Cocktails meet chemistryin the form of theatrical drinks like the Bol-lywood Bhang (vodka with basil smokeserved in a skull-shaped glass). There iseven a nod to MasalaBar’s seafront settingon Carter Road in the form of the ideal late-afternoon tipple: Sunset @ Carter (whiskywith rosemary, orange, and almond foam).Meanwhile, snack on tasty tapas like ghee-roasted scallops and truffled shiitake steakburgers.

•9 8 P.M. RETRO REPASTThe owners of Pali Bhavan scoured ChorBazaar for their décor inspiration: You’llhave a hard time finding an inch of wallspace that isn’t adorned with a framed im-age depicting vignettes from India’s past —family pictures, college portraits, scenesfrom aristocratic life. The Old World diningroom sets the stage for a traditional feastfrom across the country: classic butterchicken, harissa-spiced chicken tikka,pumpkin kofta curry and galouti kebabs,washed down with a pomegranate lassi. Ex-pect to spend about 2,000 rupees for two. Af-terward, stroll to Punjab Sweet House forclassic Indian mithai (sweets): pistachioice halwa, kalakand milk cake and mangobarfi.

Sunday•10 9 A.M. BANDRA-BOUNDBefore the British, the Portuguese cameashore — and the suburb of Bandra, popu-lar for its trendy restaurants and Bollywoodstar haunts, is where you can see vestiges ofthe Portuguese stint in Mumbai. Book awalking tour with Raconteur, and a knowl-edgeable local will lead you through land-marks — the 1575 St. Andrew’s Church andthe striking neo-Gothic Mount Mary — aswell as through former fishing and farmingvillages, pointing out street art along theway. You’ll end at the 1640-built Bandra Fort(keep an eye out for Bollywood megastarShah Rukh Khan’s house — you’ll recognizeit from the hordes at the gates), where aneasy climb yields panoramic views over theSealink bridge and the Mumbai skyline be-yond.

•11 11 A.M. TEATIMERecuperate from your walk at the Taj MahalTea House. Last August, the Brooke Bondtea company transformed a Bandra bunga-low into an elegant tearoom — completewith colonial-style rocking chairs, colorfultiles, cheery floral motifs on the walls — butthe main draw is the extensive chai list.Choose from variants like Parsi mint (160rupees) and a Karipatta Delight with curryleaves and citrus (140 rupees). Pair yourpoison with a triple-decker egg sandwichwith fried herbs and chutney (400 rupees).

•12 1 P.M. ART BREAKThe 128-year-old nonprofit contemporaryart venue, Bombay Art Society, has a flashynew address. At the nebulous Sanjay Puri–designed structure in Bandra you can scopeout the local art scene, with works by Lax-man Shreshtha, Yusuf Arakkal, Anjolie ElaMenon and more.

36 HoursM U M B A I , I N D I A

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PORAS CHAUDHARY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

Left, Elphinstone College in Kala Ghoda,established in 1856, one of the oldest colleges ofthe University of Mumbai. Far left, from top,Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, known asMount Mary Church, during the weeklongBandra Fair; a statue of the Hindu deityGanesh being taken for immersion in theArabian Sea at the beach at Girgaon during theannual Ganesha Chaturthi festival.

THE NEW YORK TIMES

1 Gateway of India. 2 Bombay Canteen, Unit-1,Process House, Kamala Mills,near Radio Mirchi Office, S.B.Road, Lower Parel;thebombaycanteen.com.3 Nariman Point. Haji AliDargah.4 Dr. Bhau Daji Lad MumbaiCity Museum, 91 A, RaniBaug, Veer Mata Jijbai BhosaleUdyan, Dr. Babasaheb Ambed-kar Marg, Byculla East;bdlmuseum.org.5 Chor Bazaar, Mutton Street,Kumbharwada. Taj Ice Cream, Khara Tank Road, Bohri Mo-halla.6 Britannia & Company, 11Sprott Road, Ballard Estate,opposite New Custom House;91-22-2261-5264. The Table, ground floor, Kalapesi TrustBuilding, Apollo Bunder Marg,Colaba; thetable.in7 Le Mill, First Floor, PherozeBuilding above Indigo Deli,Chhatrapati Shivaji MaharajMarg, Colaba; lemillindia.com.Gem Palace, D-18 DhanrajMahal, Gateway of India, Co-laba; gempalacejaipur.com.8 MasalaBar, Level 1, Gagan-giri Apartments, Carter Road,Bandra (W); masalabar.in.9 Pali Bhavan, 10 AdarshNagar, Pali Naka, Bandra West;91-22-2651-9400. PunjabSweet House, No. 3 & 7,Dheeraj Arcade, Pali Naka,Bandra West;punjabsweethouse.net.10 St. Andrew’s Church, 115Hill Road, Bandra West. Ba-silica of Our Lady of the Mount(Mount Mary Church). BandraFort.11 Taj Mahal Tea House, 36/A, Sanatan Pereira Bunga-low, St. John Baptist Road,Bandra-West; 91-22-2642-0330.12 Bombay Art Society, K. C.Marg, Bandra West;bombayartsociety.org.

IF YOU GO

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ONLINE: AN OVERVIEW

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Ever since René Redzepi announced thathe’d be closing what’s been possibly themost celebrated restaurant in the world,the only thing harder to find at Noma than

out-of-season vegetables arereservations. Fortunately,there’s a workaround. Just asummer plum’s toss fromNoma’s back door, Mr.

Redzepi has opened 108, a stylishly casualalternative that’s a third of the price, yet farmore than half as good. Prep cooks runingredients back and forth between the twokitchens, but a Noma alumnus, KristianBaumann, is firmly at the helm.

Chef stalkers will find Noma staffersstarting their mornings at 108, where anadjacent venue called the Corner doublesas a top-flight coffee shop with tea andpastries by day and a modern enoteca withbeer and snacks by night. “It’s a friendlyvibe,” Mr. Baumann said. “I wanted peopleto relax and have fun with family or agroup of friends.”

Although 108 officially opened on July 27,it began as a 13-week pop-up at Noma whileMr. Redzepi and company were off cookingin Australia. The kitchen is already in prac-ticed rhythm, and the first dish, like many

on the menu, had the hallmarks of Noma’screative perfectionism: a raft of crispsteamed romaine stems marinated in apaste made from the leaves, served withaged turbot roe and adorned with marigoldpetals. Highly Instagrammable, it’s alsodelicious. The restaurant’s bright, no-fusti-ness-allowed atmosphere makes you wantto eat it with your hands — help therearrives with the bread, a sourdough ryethat is satisfyingly crusty outside and

chewy soft inside.The menu is in Danish; instead of the

bucket-listers who frequented Noma, 108hopes to woo locals. “We call 108 a Copen-hagen kitchen,” Mr. Baumann said. “Forag-ing, fermentation and collaborating closelywith farmers are the pillars of our kitchen.”

Take the cured mackerel that invigoratesa national staple with fresh touches: saltedgooseberries, spruce oil and six sharpskin-on triangles of fish. Or the caramelizedmilk skin (its texture like a tender tortilla)filled with grilled pork belly and water-cress. For bigger appetites, there is a sec-tion titled Livretter (Danish for favoritedishes) with family-style servings of lambshoulder, monkfish or grilled greens.

Go any time of day. Pair a sunrise overscenic Nyhavn with a cup of single-originmicro-roasted cortado and a sticky wildblueberry danish. Afternoon strolls andevening bike rides call for patio-side rosé inthe shadows of drawbridges on the canal.JASON TESAURO

Bites 108 COPENHAGEN

A Noma Spinoff for Locals

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

108, Starandgade 108; 45-32-96-32-92;108.dk. A meal for two, without drinks or tip, isabout 1,000 kroner ($151).

HANNAH GRANT

Caramelized milk skinwith grilled pork bellyand watercress.