14
Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. Synthetic Aroma 2 Objectives To be acknowledged on general chemical syntheses To be informed on synthetic aroma materials 3 Contents Introduction Overview of organic synthesis Typical reactions in synthetic fragrances Synthetic aroma materials 4 Chemical combinations of floral fragrances 55 - - - 2 1 Eugenol 2 - 2 5 5 25 Terpineol 4 60 - 5 4 3 Ionone 3 10 40 5 4 5 Benzyl acetate 1 1 45 5 2 4 Amyl cinnamaldehyde 5 4 2 20 48 2 Geraniol 5 5 6 45 - 30 Hydroxy citronellal 25 20 5 15 35 30 Phenyl ethyl alcohol Carnation Violet Jasmine Muguet Rose Lilac Types 5 Rose oil Component % of Oil Threshold in ppb Odor Units x 10 -3 Rel. % of odor units (-)-Citronellol 38 40 9500 4.3 C14 - C16 Paraffins 16 - - - Geraniol 14 75 1860 0.8 Nerol 7 300 233 0.1 Phenethyl alcohol 2.8 750 37 0.016 Eugenol methyl ether 2.4 820 29 0.013 Eugenol 1.2 30 400 0.18 Farnesol 1.2 20 600 0.27 Linalool 1.4 6 2300 1 (-)-Rose oxide 0.46 0.5 9200 4.1 (-)-Carvone 0.41 50 82 0.036 Rose furan 0.16 200 8 0.003 beta-Damascenone 0.14 0.009 156000 70 beta-Ionone 0.03 0.007 42860 19.2 O CH 3 CH 3 C H 3 C H 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 O CH3 C H3 CH3 OH C H 3 CH 3 CH 3 O CH 3 6 The Production of Rose Oil

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Page 1: Synthetic Aroma - Mae Fah Luang Universitycosmetic-sci.mfu.ac.th/admin/uploadCMS/upload/JCxHzFsTue95800.pdf · Synthetic Aroma 2 Objectives ... Benzyl acetate 5 4 5 40 10 3 Amyl 4

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

Synthetic Aroma

2

Objectives

To be acknowledged on general chemical syntheses

To be informed on synthetic aroma materials

3

Contents

Introduction Overview of organic synthesisTypical reactions in synthetic fragrancesSynthetic aroma materials

4

Chemical combinations of floral fragrances

55---21Eugenol

2-25525Terpineol

460-543Ionone 31040545Benzyl acetate

1145524Amyl cinnamaldehyde

54220482Geraniol

55645-30Hydroxycitronellal

25205153530Phenyl ethyl alcohol

CarnationViolet Jasmine MuguetRose Lilac Types

5

Rose oil

Component % of OilThreshold in

ppbOdor Units

x 10-3

Rel. % of odor units

(-)-Citronellol 38 40 9500 4.3C14 - C16 Paraffins 16 - - -Geraniol 14 75 1860 0.8Nerol 7 300 233 0.1Phenethyl alcohol 2.8 750 37 0.016Eugenol methyl ether 2.4 820 29 0.013Eugenol 1.2 30 400 0.18Farnesol 1.2 20 600 0.27Linalool 1.4 6 2300 1(-)-Rose oxide 0.46 0.5 9200 4.1(-)-Carvone 0.41 50 82 0.036Rose furan 0.16 200 8 0.003beta-Damascenone 0.14 0.009 156000 70beta-Ionone 0.03 0.007 42860 19.2

O

CH3

CH3CH3

CH3 CH3

CH3

CH3

O

CH3

CH3 CH3

OH

CH3 CH3

CH3

O

CH3

6

The Production of Rose Oil

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

7

The Production of Rose Oil

8

Organic Synthesis

9

Overview of the Organic Synthesis

10

Synthesis Aroma material categorized by type of reaction

- Substitution- Addition- Elimination - Rearrangement- Oxidation-Reduction (Redox)

11

SubstitutionAlkyl halide SN1 and SN2

RX + OH- ROH + X-

SN1 : R:X R+ +:X-

R+ + Nu- RNu or R+ + Nu RNu+

SN2 : R:X + :Nu- RNu + :X- orR:X + :Nu RNu+:X-

H2O

Slow

FastC-------Xδ+ δ-

:Nu---C---Xδ- δ+ δ-

3° 2° 1° CH3SN1

SN2 12

1. Nucleophilic addition

2. Hydrogenation

CH2 CH2 + Br2 CH2 CH2Br Br

CH2 CH2 Br Br+ CH2 CH2Br

+ Br-

CH2 CH2Br

+ Br- CH2 CH2Br Br

Addition

+ H 2H 2 /P tR C H C H 2 R C H 2 C H 3

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

13

1. Cracking of petroleum hydrocarbon

2. Dehydrohalogenation

3. Dehydration

Elimination

H

OH+ H2O

H

XB:- + + BX + X-

H

H+ H2

14

Oxidation and Reduction

Aldehydes are oxidized to carboxylic acids by a variety of oxidizing agents, and it is possible to do some selective reduction reactions

CH4 CH3OH H C H

O

C OH

O

H O C O

--44 --22 00 +2+2 +4+4

Oxidation

Reduction

15

Aliphatic compounds- Alcohols - Aldehydes - Ketones - Carboxylic acids- Esters

16

AlcoholsRX + OH- ROH + X-

RCH=CH2 RCH2CH2BH2 RCH2CH2OH

RCHO RCH2OLi RCH2OH

RX RMgX RR’R”COMgX RR’R”COH

R2CO R2CHAl(O-i-C3H7)2 R2CHOH

B2H6

LiAlH4 H3O+

H2O2/OH-

Mg

Et2O

R’R”CO H3O+

Al(O-i-C3H7)3 i-C3H7OH

17

Aldehydes

RCHX2 RCH(OH)2 RCHO

RCH2OH RCH2OCrO2OH RCHO

RCOX RCHXOH RCHO

OH- -HOH

Cr2O72-

H+

H2/Pd

BaSO4

-HX

18

Ketones

RC CR RC(OH)2CH2R RCOCH2R

R2CHOH R2CHOCr2OH R2CO

RMgX R2Cd RR’CO

RLi R2C(OLi)2 R2C(OH)2 R2CO

Hg2+

H2SO4

-HOH

Cr2O72-

H+

CdCl2 R’COX

CO2 H3O+ -HOH

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

19

Carboxylic acids

RX RCN RCOOH

RX RMgX RCOOMgX RCOOH

RCH2OH RCOOH

CN- H3O+

Mg

Et2OCO2 H3O+

MnO4-

H+

20

Esters

RCOOH RCOOR’ + HOH

RCOOR’ RCOOR” + R’OH

R2CO + HOOOCR’ RCOOR

R’OH

H+

R”O-

R”OH

-R’COO-

21

C (CH2)7COOMe(CH2)7COOMeO

O

OC(CH2)7COOMe

(CH2)7COOMeNa

O

O

(CH2)7C=O

(CH2)7CH OH

(CH2OH)2HCl

NaBH4

HOH

HOH

PBr3

HBr

HBr

KOH

H3O+H2/Pd-C O=C (H2C)7(H2C)7

Civetone

Found in cis form in nature, used in perfumes as base note 22

(CH2)12CNH3C H

CH2CN

(CH2)11CHCNH3C H

CH2C=NH

(CH2)11CHCOOHH3C H

CH2C=O

(CH2)11CH2H3C H

CH2C=O

Et2NLi H3O+

H+

Muscone

Used as a fixative and a modifier in high-grade perfumes

23

Limonene

OH

O+H2

OH OH

OH

H3O+ HOH

+

-HOH

+O

O

(C6H5)3P=CH2

Limonene is found in most citrus oils. The (+) isomer is found in orange, celery and caraway oils. The (-) isomer is found in pine needle oils. Limonene is used in cosmetics and soaps.

Diels-Alder addition and Wittig reaction

Wagner-MeerweinGeraniolcyclization

24

TerpineneO Cl

Cl ClPOCl3 OH- Na/EtOH

0 oC

α-terpene occurs in savin, coriander and cardamom oils

Lemon-like odor

Used in synthetic oils and technical products

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

25

Found in Siberian pine needle oil both in the (+) and (-) isomers

Faint camphoraceous odor

Used in technical products

Camphene

H H

H CHO+

CHO

H2/Pd-C

CHOAc2O

CHOAcO3

ONaNH2CH3Cl O

1. MeMgBr2. H3O+

26

Geraniol

O

COOR

O

COOR

O

COOR

O

O

CH2OH CH2OHOH

CH2OAcOH

CH2OAcOAc OH

(CH2OH)2 1. LiAlH42. H+

1. MeMgBr2. H3O+

Ac2O

OH-

Major component of rose, palmarosa, geranium and citronella oils

Rose odor used in perfumes, cosmetics and soaps

27

Esterification of geraniol

GeraniumTiglate

Rose, geranium

CaproateRose i-ButyrateRose, applen-ButyrateRose Propionate

Rose, lavender

Acetate Rose leafFormateOrganolepticEster

28

Nerol

CHO CH2OH1. LiAlH42. H+

Herbaceous, sagei-ValerateRose, orangeFormateRose, sweeti-ButyrateFloral, leafy, orangen-ButyrateOrange blossom, roseAcetate Rose, orangeFormate

OrganolepticEster

Found in neroli, petitgrain, bergamot and citronella

29

Linalool

CHO CHOO

OHH2O2OH-

N2H4

Found in (+) isomer in Bois de sol oil, (-) isomer in Japanese Ho oil

Used in perfumes, cosmetics and soaps

Prepared by the epoxidation of geranial followed by the Wharton reaction 30

Esterification of linalool

Fruity, applei-ValerateLavender i-ButyrateBergamot, fruityn-ButyrateBergamot, peachPropionateFloral, fruityAcetate Citrus, herbalFormate

OrganolepticEster

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

31

Citronellol

O 1. Zn/BrCH2COOEt2. H3O+

COOEtHOPTSA

COOEt

OHLiAlH4 OHLiNH2(CH2)2NH2

Found (+)-citronellol in Java citronella oil and (-) isomer in Reunion geranium oil

Rose-like odor, used in perfumes, cosmetics and synthetic rose compositions 32

Esterification of citronellol

Fruity, roseTiglateRose CaproateHoney, herbaceousValerateFruity, rosei-ButyrateFruity, rosen-ButyrateFruity, rosePropionate Citrus, roseAcetate Peach, plum, roseFormate

OrganolepticEster

33

Menthol

OH

H

H H

OHH

H

OH

H OH

HH

+ menthol + isomenthol + neomenthol + isoneomenthol

O OHH2/Ni

Powerful odor with cooling effect used in dental products, chewing gums and cigarettes

Prepared by reduction of pulegone 34

Esterification of menthol

Citrus Lactate Fruity, woodyi-ValerateBerry, minty, woodyAcetate

OrganolepticEster

35

Citronellal

Cl OH

CHO CHO600 oC HCl OH- MnO2 H2Pd-C

Found (+)-citronellal in rose, lemon and citronella oils, (-) isomer in Java lemon oil

Colorless liquid

Used in perfumes, cosmetics and soaps

Prepared from β-pinene thermal rearrangement and 1,4-addition of HCl 36

HydroxycitronellalCHO

SO3HOH

HO

SO3HOH

HO

CHONaHSO3 H2SO4 NaHCO3

A lily of the valley odor

Used as a base note in lilac and mougetcombinations

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

37

Citral

COOEt+ H

Br OEtOOC

O OHC

OHEtOC=C

CHO+

CHO

EtOCEtO- H+ 1. BrMgC=COEt

2. H3O+

H2Pd-BaSO4

H3O+

A mixture of neral and geranial

Pale yellow liquid, Strong lemon-like odor

Found mainly in lemongrass

Used in perfumes, cosmetics and soaps 38

Carvone

OH OH

ClNOH

OH

NOH OH+EtO-NOCl

Found (+)-carvone in caraway and dill seed oils, (-) isomer in spearmint oil and racemate in gingergrass oil

(+)-Carvone has caraway odor, used in dental and oral preparations

(-)-Carvone has mint odor, used in dental products

Prepared from α-terpineol

39

Menthone

Found in pennyroyal and

peppermints oils

A peppermint odor with less cooling effect than menthol

Used to compound synthetic oils

OO O

EtNH(CH2)2COMeEtO-

H2Pd-C

40

Piperitone

OMe OMe O

Li/NH3 H3O+

Found (+)-piperitone in Japanese mint oil and (-) isomer in eucalyptus oil

A camphoraceous odor, used in technical products and for the synthesis of menthol

Prepared via Birch reaction

41

Pulegone

CHOOAc O O

Ac2OOAc-

1. H+

2. CrO3

Ba(OH)2

Found in lemongrass oil

Isopulegone is found in pennyroyal

Pulegone is used in soaps and dental products

i-pulegone pulegone

42

FenchoneCOOEt

O

COOEt

HO COOEt

COOEt

COOEt

COOH

COOH

ZnBrCH2COOEt

PBr3 H2/Pt

O OPb CH3I

Na

Found in fennel seed oil, has a camphoraceous odor

Imparts a pine tone to room sprays and bath preparations

Prepared via a Reformatsky reaction and a Ruczickacyclization

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

43

Benzyl alcohol

CHO

+ HCHO

OH

+ HCOOHOH-

Found free in tuberosa, jasmine, hyacinth and ylang-ylang oil

Prepare by cross Cannizaro reaction

- Faint odor, used in perfumes, cosmetics and soap

- Used in floral oils such as tuberosa, jasmine, gardenia and ylang-ylang

- Used as fixative

44

Phenylethanol

OHHCl/AlCl3

O

Found free in neroli, geranium and rose oils

Found as benzoate or phenylacetate in neroli bigarade and rose oils

- A honey-rose odor alcohol

- Used in perfumes, cosmetics and soaps

Friedel-Crafts reaction with ethylene oxide

45

Esterification of Phenylethanol

Fruity, rosei-ValerateFruity, rosei-ButyrateFloral, grapen-ButyrateRose, balsamicPropionate Honey, fruity, roseAcetate

Odor Ester

Balsamic CinnamateFruity, floralAnthranilineHoney, roseBenzoate Green, fruity, floralOctanoateFruity, green, roseHexanoate

Odor Ester

46

Cinnamyl alcoholFound as cinnamate ester in oils, balsams

and resin such as styrax and Peru balsam

Free alcohol has hyacinth odor

Used in lily, lilac and hyacinth perfumes

+ CH3CHOCHO

OHOH- LiAlH4

Aldol condensation then hydride reduction

47

Esterification of Cinnamyl alcohol

Fruity i-ValerateFruity, balsamici-ButyrateFruity, balsamicn-ButyrateFruity, spicy, balsamicPropionate Floral, balsamicAcetate Green, balsamicFormate

OrganolepticEster

48

Benzoic acidFound in anise seed, cinnamon leaves and cloves

White solid used for ester preparation

Widely used as preservative

MgBr COOMgBr COOH

CO2 H+

Carbonation of Grignardcompound then acid hydrolysis

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

49

Salicylic acidFound in anise, cassia, pennyroyal and ylang-ylang oils

White solid used for ester preparation

Used as a preservative

OH OHCOOH

1. CO2/OH-

2. H+Prepare via Kolbe synthesis

50

Cinnamic acid

CHO+ BrCH2COOEt

COOEt COOHZn H+

Found in styrax oil, cassia and basil

White solid used for ester preparation

Prepare via Reformatsky reaction

51

Phenylacetic acid

CH2Cl CH2CNCN-

CH2COOHH+

Found free and in ester derivative in Japanese mint neroli bigarade oils

Sweet, floral and honey-like odor

Used in perfumes and soaps

52

Esterification of Phenylacetic acid

Honey, sweetAllylHoney, wine, rosei-PropylHoney, apricot, rosePropylHoney, sweetEthyl

Honey, sweet, jasmine

Methyl OrganolepticEster

Honey, clove, florali-EugenylWoody, musty, greenMethoxyRose, green, wineHexylHoney, muskyi-Butyl Honey, roseButyl

OrganolepticEster

53

Anthranilic acid

NH

O

OCOO-

NH2 NH2

COOHH+Br2/OH-

Found as methyl ester in neroli bigarade oil and jasmine, tuberosa, gardenia flower oils and orange, mandarin and bergamot leaves

Prepare via Hofmann rearrangement of phthalimide in 85% yield

54

Esterification of Anthranilic acid

Fruity, floral, irisPhenethylOrange, floralLinalylMild, sweet, plumButyl Fruity, grape, floralEthyl Orange blossomMethyl

OrganolepticEster

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

55

Benzaldehyde

CH3 CHO1. CrO2Cl22. HOH Prepare via

oxidation reaction

Found as glucoside amygdalin in cinnamon bark and leaf oils and almond and apricot oilsPowerful crush bitter almond when freeUsed in cosmetics and soaps

56

Anisaldehyde

Me

OH

Me

OMe

CHO

OMe

Me2SO4/OH- MnO2

Found from anise and fennel oils

Odor of blooming hawthorn

Used in perfumes and soaps

Used in lilac, mimosa, heliotrope and sweet pea blends

Prepare by Williamson methylationof cresol and oxidation with manganese dioxide

57

Vanillin

OHOMe

HCN/HCl

OHOMe

CH=N+H2 CHO

OMeOH

HOH

Found in vanilla bean

Strong odor of vanilla

Used to impart a sweet and lasting note to floral and fancy perfumes

Prepare by Gattermann reaction 58

Not found in nature

Odor of hyacinth

Used in perfumes, cosmetics and in hyacinth, jonquil, narcissus, jasmine and lilac blends

Provide top note in floral

Phenelacetaldehyde

OH CHOH2CrO4

Prepare by chromic acid oxidation of phenylethanol

59

Cinnamaldehyde

CHO+ RCH2CHO

CHO

ROH-

Found in cassia leaf and bark and cinnamon bark oil

Odor of cinnamon used in perfumes

Prepare via Aldol condensation 60

Cinnamaldehyde derivatives

Leafy C7H15

Jasmine C6H13

Jasmine, lilyC5H11

Green leafC4H9

Spicy, amberC3H7

Spicy C2H5

Cinnamon, coumarin, spicyCH3

Cinnamon H

OrganolepticR

CHO

R

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

61

Not found in nature

Odor of floral-green with cucumber-melon

Used in floral such as lily, lilac, peony and magmolia

Cyclamenaldehyde

CHO CH=CCHO CH2CHCHO

EtCHOOH-

H2protect

carbonyl

Me Me

Prepare via Aldolcondensation

62

Obtained from Stirlingia latifolia oil

Strong sweet and aromatic odor

Used in floral such as lilac, hawthorn and wisteria

Used in soaps

Acetophenone

R R

COMe

(MeCO)2OAlCl3 Prepare via Friedel-

Craft reaction

63

Found in thyme and ajowan oils

White solid with thyme odor

Prepare by hydrogenation reaction followed by Se dehydrogenation

Thymol

O OH OHH2/Pt Se

heat

64

Carvacrol

OHSO3HSO3

H2SO4

OH-

heat

Found in majoram, origanum, savory and thyme oils

Used in soaps and dental products

Prepare via Sulfonation reaction

65

Anethole

OMe OMe

CHClCH2CH3

OMe

CH=CHCH3

CH3CH2CHOHCl/ZnCl2

OH-

Obtained from anise and funnel seeds

White solid with sweet odor

Used in dental products

Prepare via haloalkylation reaction

66

Eugenol

OHOMe

OCH2CH=CH2OMe

OHOMe

CH2CH=CH2

CH2=CHCH2BrOH-

heat

Found in free and glucoside forms in cloves oil

Pale yellow liquid with strong odor

Used in perfumes, soaps and cosmetics

Prepare via Claisen rearrangement

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

67

Obtained from nutmeg and ylang-ylang oils

Pleasant odor

Used in floral bouquets and base of carnation scents

Isoeugenol

OHOMe

CH2CH=CH2

OHOMe

CH=CHCH3

1. OH-

2. H+

Prepare via Isomerizationreaction

68

Methyleugenol

OHOMe

CH2CH=CH2

OMeOMe

CH=CHCH3

MeI/OH-

Obtained from citronella oil from acacia flowers

Softer odor then eugenol

Used in perfume combination of carnation and oriental as a modifier

Prepare by Williamson methylationof eugenol

69

Anapear®

A fruity-green pear note

Exp. Emporio Armani Elle (G. Armani, 1998)

Fruity

70

iPrHHMeHNeocaspirene®MeMeHHEtEtaspirene®R5R4R3R2R1

Blackcurrant

Etaspirene® Exp. Pleasures (E. Lauder, 1995)Neocaspirene® Exp. Le monde est beau (Kenzo, 1997)

71

Galbanum

α-Dynascone®β-Dynascone®

A fruity, pineapple-type note in Fougère

Exp. Cool water (Davidoff, 1988), Egoïste Platinum (Chanel, 1993)

72

The green of leaves

O OCHO

HO(CH2)2OHH

Glycolierral®

An ivy-leaf odor

Exp. J’adore (C. Dior, 1999)

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

73

Undecavertol®

The green of leaves

A violet-leaf odor

Exp. Extravagance d’Amarige (Givenchy, 1998), Sunwater (Lancaster, 1997), Escape for Men (C. Klein, 1993) 74

Sea-breeze

Calone 1951®

A marine note

Exp. New West for her (Aramis, 1990), Escape for her (C. Klein, 1991), L’ Eau d’Issey (I. Miyake, 1992), L’Eaud’Eden (Chcharel, 1996), Cool Water fem (Davidoff, 1996), Polo Sport Woman (R. Lauren, 1996)

75

Watermelon

Melonal®

A watermelon note

Exp. Allure (Chanel, 1996) 76

Rose

Doremox® and Phenoxanol® or Mefrosol®

Exp. Birmane (Van Cleef & Arpels, 1999), Bvlgari E.D.P. (Bulgari, 1994)

77

Jasmine & Magnolia

Hedione® and Magnolione®Exp. Coriandre (Couturier,

1973), Eden (Cacharel, 1994)78

Woody

Firsantal® : a woody-sandal-floral noteExp. Ultra Violet (P.Rabanne, 1990)Firsantol® : a woody-aromatic-musky noteExp. 212 foe men (C. Herrera, 1999)

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D.

79

Woody

Iso E Super®

Exp. Fahrenheit (C.Dior, 1988), Trésor (Lancôme, 1991), Féminité du Bois (Shiseido, 1992), Déclaration (Cartier, 1998)

80

Ambery

Spirambrene®

A floral-oriental odor

Exp. Kenzo pour Homme (Kenzo, 1991)

81

1. Arctander S. Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals). V. 1. Illinois: Allured; 1994.

2. Gimelli SP. Aroma Science. New York: Micelle Press; 2001.

3. Kraft P, Bajgrowicz JA, Denis C, Fráter G. Odds and trends: recent developments in the chemistry of odorants. Angrew. Chem. Int. Ed. 39:2980-3010, 2000.

4. Nattaya L. Synthetic Aroma material in Aromatic Science 1701351 [Lecture handout]. Chiang Rai: MFU;2007-2010.

References

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Thank youfor your attention