Sweetening Cosmetics!kimyakongreleri.org/K2014/4kozmetik-s005.pdf · 2014. 3. 6. · For body, feet, hands. The good SOS gesture for very dry skin. Shea butter, sweet almond oil :

An affiliate of

1

Sweetening Cosmetics!

Our story on functionalized sugars

Antalya Congress – 14/16 Febuary 2014

16415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org

4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya

2

Agenda

2

Part I : Sugar unveils its history

Chronology

Our perception of sugar

Sugar & biology

Sugar & skin

Part II : Sugar unveils its sustainable side

Our functionalized sugars

SEPPIC & sustainable development

Part III : Sugar unveils its sensorial and efficacy

Functionalized sugars – Sensorial assets

Functionalized sugars – Strong moisturizers



3


Chronology

Our perception of sugar

Sugar & Biology

Sugar & Skin



4


Chronology

-1000 BC sugar is present in Africa.

it reaches India and China « Sarkara »

-600 BC it reaches the Persian empire

Greek and Romans use Sugar as a

therapeutic ingredient (Megasthènés)

600 to 800 – extension of sugar cane

through the Arabic empire.

First sirups for cooking are created

1096 –First crusades, the pilgrims discover the sweet taste of

sugar.

The European adventure starts.

XV century Venice has the trade monopol for sugar, then to

overcome this situation, Portugal with slave trade starts producing

sugar un Madeira and Brazil.

France starts also producing in Martinique and Guadeloupe islands

1747 –Mr Marggraf isolate for the 1st time

the sugar from beetroots in a solid form.

1806 – Continental blocus that increases

the British domination on sea. Napoleon

decides to push the mass production of

sugar using Beetroots.

Today, beetroot sugar represents 30% of theworldwide production.

Yearly average consumption25.5kg/person

=70gr/day



5


Our perception of sugar!

From the 50’s

Sugar is part of the post war

reconstruction effort, it gives strenght!

The concept of nutrient is born!

The 60’s

Sugar represents youth, vitality,

team spirit, freedom,

emancipation!

The 80’s

Products « free from »

« fat free » « diet » are

born, sugar and fat are

evil! Problem: products

are also « free from »

...taste....

The 90’s go back to basics,

rediscover taste

food becomes the first medecine,

BSE crisis creates a gap and

sugar is considered a

trusthworthy value, natural origin



6


Our perception of sugar!

2000 – reconciliation of women and sugar through 4 aspects:

Intelligent women = sugar is nutrient for the brain

Active women = sugar is nutrient for your muscles

Balanced women = sugar is part of a balanced nutrition

Women of taste = Sugar is taste, pleasure and conviviality

Nowadays – who would want a world without

sugar?

the world would be dehumanized without

pleasure and taste, sugar is part of the culinary

legacy



7


Sugar & Biology

glucose

IMMEDIAT USE

Glucose can be used directly by all cellsmost needy are neurons 4gr/hour

Cellular respiration

aim : ATP production

Step 1:Glycolysis with pyruvate

formation

Step 2:Krebs Cycle

Step 3:respiratory chain

RESERVES

Glycogen is stored in the liver and released under glucose whenever needed



8


Sugar & Skin

Skin dialogue

Cells need to

communicate between

themselves and their

environment to survive

membrane receptors

mostly glycoproteins

mediators most of them

glycoproteins are

involved in protection,

hydration, soothing

response etc...

Sugars can be

considered the dialogue

molecules

Skin architecte

Sugars are the DNA

backbone through

Ribose and

desoxyribose

Sugars are structural

components of cells

membrane –

Glycolipids and

glycoproteins

Skin hydric reserves

Sugars are the most

important water

reservoir of the whole

human body Hyaluronic

acid, chondroïtin

sulfate, dermatan

sulfate etc....

trap 1000 times their

weight in water and act

as natural protective

cushions



9



SEPPIC & sustainable development



10



10

ORAMIX™ CG 110

ORAMIX™ NS 10+

foaming agent

SOLAGUM™ AX

SOLAGUM™ TARA

tran

sfo

rma

tio

n

polymer

+

active

AQUAXYL™

OLIGOGELINE ™

+MONTANOV™ range

SIMULGREEN™ 18-2

FLUIDANOV™ 20X

emulsifier

RSPO memberRoundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil

possible

source



11


SEPPIC & Sustainable development

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Sustainable development = core of our growth strategy

Innovate with the benefit of simplicity of form, process or production

time

technologies to decrease the environmental impact; cold process

GREEN

TECHNO

EASY

Patent solutions that provide real added value

Portfolio of 150 families of patents / 10 to 15 patents per year

Encourage green chemistry (12 principles of green chemistry) and

vegetable-based chemistry

Measurement by 14C dosage for the renewable origin of our products

Managment of natural resources with recent aquisition of BIOTECHMARINE



12

Part III : Sugar unveils its sensorial and efficacy





1313

Formula:

Solagum AX 2 %

Caprilic/Capric Triglycerides 20%

Water Up to 100%


SOLAGUM ™ AX – to smooth and soften the skin

Use test: In vivo sensorial evaluation after 14 days of use

Protocol:

20 volunteers with dry

skin (<50 a.u.)

2 applications/day

Application zone : Leg

Questionnaire

of the panelists observed a More moisturized,

smoother and softer skin, after 14 days of use.77%6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org


14

Less stringy

Less sticky

Panelist response


SOLAGUM ™ TARA – to improve the texture

Use test: In vivo sensorial evaluation

A new way to bring natural soft texture to your formulas !

65% of trained panelists observed a less sticky feel, and 80% a less stringy texture

compared to the formula made with 2% Xanthan Gum at an equivalent viscosity

Sensory evaluation based on 2 formulas

(emulsions) with same viscosity : 24,900

mPa.s

Formula EU7237A:

Aqua Up to 100 %

Glycerin 3.00 %

Caprylic capric Triglycerides 12.00 %

Propanediol Dicaprylate 5.00 %

MONTANOV TM L 3.00 %

SOLAGUM ™ TARA 0.8 %

SEPITONIC TM M3 1.00 %

Benzyl Alcohol & Dehydrioacetic Acid 0.6 %

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.03 %

Tocopherol 0.05 %

Fragrance 0.05 %

Formula:

Xanthan Gum 2.00 %



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SIMULGREEN™ 18-2 – skin comfort approved

Use test: In vivo sensorial evaluation effect after 14 days of use

Formula:

SIMULGREEN 18-2 3%

Caprilic/Capric

triglycerides

20%

SOLAGUM AX 0.5%

SEPICIDE HB 1%

Aqua/Water Up to 100%

Protocol:

20 volunteers with dry skin

(<50 a.u.)

2 applications/day


Questionnaire

of the panelists observed pleasant texture,

moisturized sensation and comfort sensation.90%More than

Tolerance

Poduct

efficacy

General

appreciation



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MONTANOV™ range & SIMULGREEN™ 18-2 –

wide range of textures and skin feel

Compact

CO

NS

IST

EN

CY

SENS ORY

Liquid

RichPowdery

Vanishing

Quick

absorption

Thick lotion to

cream

SIMULGREEN™

18-2

Consistency

agent

Neutral skin feel

MONTANOV™

14

Spray to thick cream

Light

skin feel

Ultra-white

emulsions

MONTANOV™

L

MONTANOV™

202

Thick lotion

To fluid cream

Light skin feelMONTANOV™

82

Spray to thick cream

Rich skin feel

Cream

Rich skin feel

MONTANOV™

68



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SOLAGUM™ AX - 3 hours moisturizing effect

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Significant results (p<0.01) in comparison with the untreated control zone

In vivo moisturizing effect - corneometry

Formula:

Caprilic/Capric triglycerides 20%

SOLAGUM AX 2%

SEPICIDE HB 1%


(treated zone/untreated zone)

Protocol:


(<50 a.u.)

Single application


Corneometer



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MONTANOV™ range - 5 hours moisturizing effect



Protocol:

20 volunteers dry skin (<50 u.a)

Single application

Application zone : leg

Corneometer CM825

Formula:

MONTANOV 3.00%

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 20.00%

SIMULGEL EG 0.50%




19


SIMULGREEN™ 18-2 - 8 hours moisturizing effect

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Significant results (p<0.01) in comparison with the untreated control zone


Formula:

SIMULGREEN 18-2 3%

Caprilic/Capric triglycerides 20%

SOLAGUM AX 0.5%

SEPICIDE HB 1%


Protocol:


(<50 a.u.)

Single application


Corneometer

Liquid crystals promoters: Optical microscope

examination

polarized light (D7)Scanning electronic microscope

image (M1)



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Functionalized sugars – Strong lipid & water booster

AQUAXYL™ - 24 hours boosting effect

1

Increases water reserves and water

circulation

In vivo Corneometry results

3% vs placebo 20 volunteers

*p<0.5

2

Reinforces the cutaneous barrier

Ex Vivo skin explants

3% topical application vs glycerin

*p<0.5 / control

Aquaxyl in formulation at 3%Glycerin in formulation at 3%




OLIGOGELINE ™ :

Plant silicone – hydrating active ingredient

«Film Forming» Effect (In-vivo)

showing water-loss reduction

(TEWL – 27% in 3h).

Carrageenans bind with skin

proteins, without occlusive

effect.

Reinforces & Stimulates

Keratinization thanks to

minerals.



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Conclusion – Hydration around the clock!

Solagum AX

combining

sensoriality with

external water-

binding

Montanov™ range

Bringing moisture

thanks to their liquid

crystal structure

Simulgreen™ 18-2

extending moisture

thanks to their liquid

crystal structure

Aquaxyl™ increases

water reserves and

repairs skin barrier

Oligogeline™

Hydrate & protecte

the skin with film

forming effet.

Silicone touch



HIMALAYA CREAM

White cream

Packaging : jar

Head to toe Ecocert cold cream! For body, feet, hands.

The good SOS gesture for very dry skin.

Shea butter, sweet almond oil : immediate nourishing comfort for very dry skin!

AQUAXYL™ increases reserves and circulation of water in different skin layers. A real anti-dehydration shield!

Enhanced moisturizing efficacy in vivo with SIMULGREEN™ 18-2 due to liquid crystals

SOLAGUM™ AX brings a pleasant moisturized veil

SIMULGREEN 18-2 et SOLAGUM AX emulsify-stabilize an high quantity of oils, included 12% shea butter.

>95% natural origin ingredients

AS40031

Hands

Feet

Body

A Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil

SOLAGUM™ AX

Tocopherol

12.00%

10.00%

1.00%

0.10%

B Aqua / Water

SIMULGREEN™ 18-2

Qsp 100%

3.00%

C Dehydroacetic Acid

Parfum / Fragrance

AQUAXYL™

0.60%

0.15%

3.00%

Appearance White cream

pH 5.4

Viscosity 1M at RT 20 000 mPa.s Brookfield S64S6

Stability 1M at RT, at 45°C & at -18°C



24

Thank you!

n°6179/GB/01/March 20136415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org


2525

Contacts

Nota

The analytical specifications warranted are only those mentioned on the certificate of analysis supplied with each delivery of the product.

Except as set forth above, SEPPIC* makes no warranties, whether express, implied or statutory, as to the product which is the subject of this document. Without limiting

the generality of the foregoing, SEPPIC* makes no warranty of merchantability of the product or of the fitness of the product for any particular purpose. Buyer assumes all

risk and liability resulting from the use or sale of the product, whether singly or in combination with other goods. The information set forth herein is furnished free of

charge and is based on technical data that SEPPIC* believes to be reliable. It is intended for use by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk.

Since conditions of use are outside SEPPIC*'s control, SEPPIC* makes no warranties, express or implied, and assumes no liability in connection with any use of this

information. Nothing herein is to be taken as a license to operate under or a recommendation to infringe any patents.

* SEPPIC being :

SEPPIC S.A. Head Office SEPPIC Japan Office SEPPIC Italia Srl

22 Terrasse Bellini 75, quai d'Orsay Air Liquide Japan's office Via Quarenghi 27

92806 Puteaux 75007 Paris Granpark Tower 3-4-1 Shibaura 20151 Milano

FRANCE FRANCE Minato-ku, Tokyo 108-8509 ITALY

Tel. : +33 (0)1 42 91 40 00 JAPAN Tel : +39 02 38009110

[email protected] Tel : +81 3 6414 6725 [email protected]

[email protected]

SEPPIC Inc. SEPPIC Poland Office SEPPIC Brasil

30, Two Bridges Road, suite 210 CCIF Rua Libero Badaro, 182

Fairfield, Ul. Widok 8 8° andar - Centro

New Jersey 07004-1530 00-023 Varsovie 01008-000 Sao Paolo SP

USA POLAND BRAZIL

Tel. : +1 973 882 5597 Tel : +48 22 690 68 73 Tel : +55 11 3242 3911

[email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

SEPPIC Asia Singapore SEPPIC Dubai Office SEPPIC Gmbh SEPPIC Colombia SAS

3 HarbourFront Place # 09 – 04 Dubaï Airport Free Zone Von-der-Wettern-STR.27 Calle 71 n°10-40

HarbourFront Tower Two West Wing 4, B Block 51149 Köln Edificio Orbe 71 of 401

Singapore 099254 Suite 144. Dubaï, GERMANY Bogota

SINGAPORE UAE Tel. : +49 (0) 2203-89830-20 COLOMBIA

Tel : +65 6278 6711 P.O. Box 546638 [email protected] Tel : +571 702 44 48

[email protected] Tel : + 971 (4) 2395565 [email protected]

[email protected]

SEPPIC China SEPPIC Mumbai

Room 2909 Nan Zheng Building B-110, Knox Plaza

580 West Nan Jing Road MindSpace, Off Chincholi bunder rd

Shanghai 200041 Malad (W) Mumbai – 400064

CHINA INDIA

Tel : +86 (21) 64 66 01 49 Tel : +91 22 42726464

[email protected] [email protected]

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Documents

Sweetening Cosmetics!kimyakongreleri.org/K2014/4kozmetik-s005.pdf · 2014. 3. 6. · For body, feet, hands. The good SOS gesture for very dry skin. Shea butter, sweet almond oil :