Svaneti Regional Treasure

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SvanetiSoanes are superior perhaps to all the tribes in strength and courage. They are masters of thecountry around them, and occupy the heights of Caucasus above Dioscurias. They have a king,

and a council of three hundred persons. They can assemble, it is said, an army of two hundred

thousand men, for all their people are ghting men, but not distributed into certain orders. In their

country the winter torrents are said to bring down even gold, which the Barbarians collect in

troughs pierced with holes, and lined with eeces; and hence the fable of the golden eece

Strabo, Geography, XI. 2. 19

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Svaneti is the high mountain region in the northwestern part of the

country. Mestia (1300 meters above the sea level) a townlet in there

is its administrative center and one of the ancient tribes settled on

the right bank of that boisterous mountain river Mestia Chala.

Mestia surrounded with a long-shot, green mountains, offers strik-

ing and breathtaking views of those vertical silhouettes of sky high

towers against the background of blue sky. Those towers had been

used as fortresses, shows character strengths and virtues of Svane-

tians symbolizing their love for freedom and courage. Towers are

build in stone like the dwellings, while roong tiles of shale ensures

its safety and stability. One can hardly nd something more stunning

and beautiful than those numerous towers over the rim of mountainsand the sites of Tetnuldi always covered in ice sheets (4974 meters

above the sea level)

Sethi, Lekhtragi, Lanchvali and Laghami are those faboulouslky kept

districts in Mestia that still have the ambiance of old days.

Svaneti has been one of the cultural hotspots of medieval Georgia.

The church architecture of Svaneti is dominated by small sized

churches of the one-nave basilica type. The oldest churches that

have survived on its original site are dated back in IX-X centuries.

Those churches carried a sacral meaning of God`s House and had

been used as the most safe places to store up treasures on there.

As with many things necessary for church service they kept in

churches those numerous and various sacrice performed by

Georgian kings, churchmen, feudal lords and locals. Those things

nowadays are collected and kept for show in the museum. And

these were again those valuable objects kept carefully in St. George

church in Sethi which led to opening of the very rst museum in

Svaneti in 1936.

The fundamental studying of History of Svaneti started as early

as 19th century. It was time when the rst recordings appeared

and the rst shots were done of those artworks by travelers and

researches that were kept in churches. Douglas William Fresheld,

the president of the Great Britains Royal Geographic Society was

one of the pioneer researchers who studied the region. His work

illustrated with the photos by Italian photographer and mountaineerVittorio Sella, was published in London, in 1896. Vittorio Sella spent

considerable time exploring the wonders of Svaneti. His collection

of pictures taken there in the 19th century is unique and excellent

source of information about the region. To his respect one of the

streets in Mestia is named after Vittorio Sella. Dimitry Ermakov`s

photos also belong to that unique archive that gives a perfect depic-

tion of Svaneti.

Laghami is a good example of traditional Mestia with a two storey

church in the center of that district. The smaller chapel on the rst

oor of the church was built in the 10th centur. The interior of the

church includes wall paintings belonging to two different layers, one

dated back in X-XI centuries and the other in XII century. Later on,

the church was expanded. And it was in the 14th century when they

built the second oor of the church and painted its interior as well

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as faade. Painted church faade is extremely rare in other parts of

Georgia and becomes characteristics of Svanetian churches that

differ greatly from other regions of the country. The east face of the

Cathedral illustrates the Hunting of St. Eustaphios,the north facade

depicts the Banishment of Adam and Eve from the Paradise one

of the unique set of wall paintings in Georgia reecting the scenes

from biblical cycle.

However the belief and customs of Christianity are not completely

solid concepts here but rather connected with paganism elements.

Church interior is very clear example of that. The western outer wall

of the church exposes a painting of two chamois facing each other

that shows the respect for Svan hunting beliefs.

Mikheil Khergiani house museum, the memorial house of famous

Georgian Mountain climber who was also known as Tiger of the

Mountains is one of the most famous and visiting places in the

lower part of Laghami.

Lanchvali attracts the visitors with Machubi, that is a residential

house of Margiani family and that now serves as a museum there.

Magnicent interior of Machubi gives a signicant impression and

the exact look of traditional house in Svaneti. Supported by a

wooden curved pillars in the middle of the rooms, and separated by

a wooden partitions, Machubi gives a feeling of those days. There

are still presented the chair for Makhshvi, the head of the household

and other common household items. Machubi is the place where

the poetic functional role of architecture is evident, from one point

it is very meaningful and precise where each element is necessary

and essential but at the same time it is unique with its simplicity and

harmony.

The Georgian Natioanl Museum/ Museum of History and Ethnog-

raphy (A. Ioseliani Street #8) in Svaneti can be seen from any part

of Mestia. The three storey building in modern architecture (Author

Gaga Kiknadze) ts well within the already existing historic urban

environment around

With its rich history of almost 100 years back the Museum re -

opened its doors again to the visitors only in 2013, when the reno-

vated building complied with the prescriptive international standards

hosted an exposition . After rehabilitation of the museum exhibitionhalls were equipped in the modern way under the latest standards.

There were created restoration laboratories and storages ensuring

those special constant environments and accurate and reliable hu-

midity controls for multiple display cases. The museum explores the

relationships between traditions and innovation, history and contem-

poraneity and works as the communicator between the societies.

The displays of archeological discoveries are kept in the main exhi-

bition hall of the musem . All ancient things found in that mountani-

ous region between BC III-II centuries represents the whole period

from early Bronze age to medieval period. The rough chronological

sequence of those diverse archeological nds in Svaneti region

proves once again it to be an organic and integral part of Georgian

culture.

Photo by Mirian Kiladze

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This amazing discoveries of coins is exhibited in the Numismatic

exhibition hall. The collection of coins arranged in chronological order

includes coins circulated from the 5th century BC (Kolkhuri Tetri) to

the 20th century world coins and creates the tremendous excitement

for visitors. Those diverse coinage presented their supports the

strategic position of the region in old days and its signicant concerns

with capital ows.

Christian culture collection is another major story the museum

speaks about. It tells on deep cultural links and relationships

between Georgia and Bizantija and explains the great inuence on

Georgian medieval culture by leading Eastern elesiastic Christian

centers.

The latter hall is representation and exploration of rich ethnographic

materials.

The renovated museum provides a detailed and close look into the

Georgian culture and helps to feel it through culture specic moods

and characteristics. Development of Georgian culture grew from

the intersection between multicultural, historical and artistic activities

where Georgian culture always played a leading role. Diachronic

section of the exposition explains the importance of Georgian treas-

ury in the context of the world cultural heritage.

Not only will you see the wealth of information in Svaneti museum

but one can enjoy their time in public area of cafeteria with amazing

views on Mestia and its towers, relaxing and sharing emotions with

their friends worldwide using absolutely free WI-FI.

The way out from the museum to Zuruldi mountain leads up to the

recently build road and skiing way Atsvali plateau (7 kl. From the

center of Mestia) that is famous for its longest snow cover during

winter while in summer it offers the stunning views 2205 meters high

from the sea level. Here is the broad view of Ushba, one of the most

notable peaks of the Caucasus Mountains.

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Photo by Mirian Kiladze

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Svaneti Regional Treasure