Sustainable Hairdressing

Who are we?• Team of Social Researchers from the University of Southampton,

Hairdressers and Environmental Managers

Dr Denise Baden, Dr Swarna Prasad, Danielle Mills, Jordan Peel

• Project: “Embedding sustainability in the hairdressing curriculum – sustainable solutions for hair and beauty sector” run by the University of Southampton and funded by the Economic and Social Research Council.

• Working with training providers and Industry bodies (Habia, VTCT, City and Guilds) to integrate sustainability into hairdressing.

This Power Point presentation:• Provides a brief background to the key concepts relating to

sustainability such as: climate change, global warming, resource use and sustainable development, with video clips to illustrate.

• Shows how these issues relate to hairdressing.

• Provides video clips made specifically for training providers to show trainee hairdressers how to practice sustainable hairdressing. These cover:

• Practices that save energy and water in the salon and at home

• Eco products for use in salon and by clients

• Green technologies

• How to promote more sustainable hair practices to your clients

• Please feel free to use or adapt this presentation to suit the needs of your course/students.

• Every point is covered both by text and by video clips so choose which clips/text you want and delete any you don’t to avoid repetition.

Outline of presentation

• General sustainability challenges and concepts:One planet, climate change, sustainable development, water, energy, waste, pollution/contamination, palm oil/deforestation.

• Link between sustainability and hairdressing

• Case studies of eco-hairdressers

• Eco products

• Green technologies

• Sustainable hair-care practices in the salon

• Advice to clients

Key sustainability concepts

One planet living• Globally, humanity is currently consuming 50% more natural resources than the Earth's ecosystems can

replenish (WWF).

• If everyone in the world were to consume natural resources and generate CO2 at the rate we do in the UK, we'd need three planets to support us. If the whole world followed North American lifestyles we would need five planets. We only have one planet and need to stop over consuming our planets resources by making sustainable changes in our homes and places of work.

• One Planet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3NZ7cmR9v8 2:26 yes we will use. Good intro – could cut short

• WWF https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSNsnhqFQvU 1 min. good snappy – shows link between what we use in terms of energy and climate change.

Sustainable DevelopmentSustainable Development is development that “meets the needs of the

present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs’’ (Brundtland Commission, 1987).

The UK is home to just 1% of the world's population but produces 2.3% of the world's C02 (friends of the earth). Carbon dioxide was the dominant greenhouse gas, accounting for 84.4% of total emissions in 2013. (Gov stats). There are 35,704 hair salons in the UK and by working together to reduce energy and water consumption we can make a significant change.

Energy challenge (WORK ON SLIDE)Dilemma of fossil fuels – non-renewable, in one day use energy that

took hundreds of millions of years to form.

Fossil fuels – will run out – peak oil, also gives rise to carbon emissions

Nuclear – issues with safety and waste

Renewables – protests against wind farms, solar energy good but need sun.

LEAD UP TO POINT OF IMPORTANCE OF NOT WASTING ENERGY

Climate change and Global warming• When CO2 is released into the atmosphere, it acts as a greenhouse gas i.e. it causes heat to

remain trapped within the atmosphere, rather than escaping back to space. This causes global warming. Science tells us that the increasing century is mostly man-made and that temperatures are rising now faster than ever (WWF, 2015a).

• A rise of just 2°c would result in severe storms, floods and droughts, little or no arctic ice, and more acidic oceans (WWF, 2015a). This is likely to result in water shortages and developing countries in the South becoming deserts. thi affects us all, as we depend on the South for crops such as coffee, chocolate, sugar, fruit etc. Sea levels and coastal areas will become uninhabitable.

• The Climate Change Act (2008) was introduced to ensure the UK cuts its carbon emissions by 80% by 2050. The 80% target is set against a 1990 baseline. The Governments policies to help businesses and households achieve this are set out in https://www.gov.uk/government/policies/greenhouse-gas-emissions

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Global_warming

Climate change and Global warming

Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change“Continued emission of greenhouse gases will

cause further warming and long-lasting changes in all components of the climate system, increasing the likelihood of severe, pervasive and irreversible impacts for people and ecosystems. Limiting climate change would require substantial and sustained reductions in greenhouse gas emissions which, together with adaptation, can limit climate change risks…. The risks of abrupt or irreversible changes increase as the magnitude of the warming increases.” (IPCC 2014 report).

IPCC conclude it is possible to limit warming to below 2°c, but this requires substantial reductions in greenhouse gas emissions.

What can you do?

• Cut energy use. What are your most energy hungry appliances?

• Typical wattage of a power shower is about 10,500 watts (DEFRA, 2011), and the typical wattage of a residential water heater is about 4,500watts. Comparatively, the typical wattage of a TV is only 140watts.

• Can reduce use of water heater and/or switch to more eco-product e.g. Low flow showers with a wattage of about 8,500 watts, or shower aerators, which reduce water consumption by about 50%.

• Switch to a green energy supplier e.g. Good energy, Ecotricity, OVO Green energy plan, LOCO2 , Green energy etc – see http://www.ethicalconsumer.org/buyersguides/energy/greenelectricitysuppliers.aspx

Water

• Cover issues of water scarcity and reasons to conserve water

• Also issue of hot water uses energy

• Also issue of what gets washed down tap – hazardous chemicals – effect on environment.

• Water is a vital resource and risk of water scarcity becoming a real threat

• Water conserving measures relieve pressure on water treatment plants

• Good habits can influence others to make changes

Waste Water/Pollution• More than 5,000 different chemicals are found in hair dye products, some of which are reported

to be carcinogen, causing cancer in animals (Bolt & Golka, 2007, de Sanjose et al., 2006).

• Waste water from hair washing is classed as “grey-water”, and is transported by sewer systems to a treatment facility.

• It is vital therefore that waste water is transported safely and treated. If these toxic chemicals were released into soil or water, they could cause great ecological damage.

• Ammonia pollution for example, results in a process in water known as eutrophication, which leads to the excessive growth of organisms such as algae, preventing sunlight and oxygen reaching other organisms beneath the water surface.

• However, scientists have found that some of these chemicals react with air pollutants, creating dangerous carcinogenic compounds. Further research is being carried out as it is not clear at present how serious this risk is.

Palm Oil and deforestation• Palm oil is an ingredient that is found in the shampoo that we use at home and in the salon

but unsustainable palm oil is causing significant environmental problems such as; deforestation, habitat loss, loss of biodiversity, soil erosion, water pollution and climate change. Today, rainforests are being destroyed at that rate of 300 football fields every hour. Recommend palm oil free or products containing sustainable palm oil certified by RSPO to clients and help to combat this problem.

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-1DQwaauwE Palm oil 2:09 – just pictures and text about how consumer choices affect palm oil.

• Greenpeace - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o6WHN4NDTk 2:27 - link between palm oil, forest destruction and products

• Some global buyers such as Unilever are committed to buying 100% sustainable palm oil, but others are lagging. To find out which shampoos use sustainable palm oil check out the following links

http://www.ethicalconsumer.org/buyersguides/healthbeauty/shampoo.aspx

Pollution

Issues of pollution, contamination

Talk about chemicals in hair products such as shampoo and colour

Relate to practices (use less) products (eco friendly) salon practices (waste treatment).

Eutrophication is the enrichment of water with nutrients, including ammonia, leading to the excessive growth of organisms. Reduce your impact upon the environment by reducing colour waste and opting for organic or ultra low ammonia colour ranges.

The Waste Hierarchy

The waste hierarchy aims to minimise waste

Discuss: How does this apply to hairdressing?

Link between sustainability and hairdressing• PROVIDE STATS ON

• percentage of energy/co2 used by hair sector

• percentage of energy/co2 used by households.

• percentage of energy/co2 related to showering/hair care.

• Energy consumption of running hot water per minute is 2.59p per minute (£1.55 per hour). This is a lot higher than the energy consumption of a 1800 watt oven (0.42p per minute or £0.25 per hour), a 140 watt TV (0.03p per minute or £0.02 per hour), an 80 watt fridge (0.02p per minute or £0.01 per hour), or a 400 watt PC (0.09p per minute or £0.06 per hour). [DENISE please delete as appropriate which measurement you’d prefer – i.e. Per minute or per hour]

• California study of cutting water consumption or others

• INSERT MY GENERAL CLIP ON LINK BTW SD AND HAIRDRESSING

• A study in California showed that if every person in California switched to cleansing conditioners and reduced their showers by just one minute, around 2,600,000,000 gallons (12,000,000,000 litres) of water would be saved every year. That is the same amount as 4800 Olympic sized swimming pools. [Use whichever metrics you’d prefer – US, UK or both]

• This would save 130 kWh of power every year

• The reduced electricity costs would save $15.8million (around £10million).

• Per person, this would mean a saving of 730 gallons (3300 litres) and about $4 (£2.55) in energy costs per year.

Link between sustainability and hairdressing

Case studies of eco hairdressers

Anne Veck Eco Salon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nL49MUaHRD8

Aveda, Brighton UK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QH0TTjqDv4M

Videos in UK salons is very hard to find I have found one in Gloucester but it promotes their brand more than the actual workings of the salon; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4YiUnYwAZY

Eco-products

There are two ways a product can be eco-friendly1. The way in which it is used results in less water/energy being used

e.g. dry shampoo, leave-in conditioner, cleansing conditioner.

2. The brand/company is known for its green credentials e.g. it may use recyclable/less packaging, have less toxic ingredients, avoid ingredients that damage the environment e.g. palm oil.

Eco-products that use less resourcesDry shampoo

Leave-in conditioner

Cleansing conditioner/shampoo/conditioner in one

Eco-colour (more details required)

Curlers that don’t require heat e.g. curl-formers

Single use, compostable towels that don’t require washing e.g. Easy dry towels https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqtkhSHJcm0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9qSQPbFP8w&list=PLVpIMBnUZVgvH6qIxE-yudP5F40bcO5J_

Dry shampoo• Eco savings: 8 mins less running shower time will save approx. 1.0 kg CO₂e, 2.17 kWh and 62 litres of water. If we also

factor in no blow drying (assume a saving of 5 mins blowdrying) (0.04 kg CO₂e and 0.08 kWh ), this saves a total of 1.04 kg CO₂e and 2.25 kWh.

• Good for hair as it doesn’t strip natural oils from scalp, or make brittle through blow drying.

• Makes hair easier to style, can give volume. Coloured versions can help to cover grey roots temporarily

• Cost savings: over a year, assuming use dry shampoo once a week, saving one wash/dry cycle and saving 5 mins hairdrying. This saves approx. £22.76 for clients. (£16.38 energy + £6.38water), and saves 11.27 hours of time a year.

• Health and Safety: Any ideas?

• Time saving: Takes less than a minute. How long does your normal wash and dry take?

• Convenience: can do anywhere, good when no access to water e.g. festivals, camping.

• Reduces colour-fade due to less rinsing and so has environmental, time, cost and health and safety benefits (see section on hair colour).

Dry shampoo

• Dry shampoo is a product that can be used to soak up excess oil at the roots to keep hair looking fresher between washes.

• This intervention reduces the frequency of shampooing and need to style hair which saves water, electricity and detergents.

Video clips;

Kevin.Murphy; http://kevinmurphy.com.au/video/fresh-hair/

Tigi; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HorRO2zTZQ0

I

Leave-in conditioner

• Eco savings: 2 minutes less shower time will save approx. 0.25 kg CO₂e and 0.54 kWh, and 15.5 litres of water

• Good for many kinds of hair as can provide extra volume.

• Cost savings: over a year, assuming wash hair 3 times a week, this saves approx. £16.63 (£11.84 energy + £4.79 water) for clients a year – assuming energy =14.05p per kWh, and water = 0.198p per litre. Work out how much it would save a salon to replace shampoo + conditioner with cleansing conditioner

• Time saving: Using leave-in conditioner instead washing out conditioner saves about 1-5 minutes depending on length/type of hair.

• Reduces colour-fade due to less rinsing and so has environmental, time, cost and health and safety benefits (see section on hair colour).

Leave-in conditionerLeave in conditioner can be used in place of a regular conditioner. Clients

may find that their hair is easier to style and doesn't become greasy as quickly.

• Using a leave in conditioner can save water and electricity as the need to apply and rinse regular conditioner is eliminated.

Video clips;

http://kevinmurphy.com.au/video/un-tangled/

http://macadamiahair.com/our-products/nourishing-leave-in-cream.html#.VdNb7flVikr

Cleansing conditioner• Eco savings: 2 minutes less shower time will save approx. 0.25 kg CO₂e and 0.54

kWh, and 15.5 litres of water

• Good for hair as it doesn’t strip natural oils from scalp

• Cost savings: over a year, assuming wash hair 3 times a week, this saves approx. £16.63 (£11.84 energy + £4.79 water) for clients a year – assuming energy =14.05p per kWh, and water = 0.198p per litre. Work out how much it would save a salon to replace shampoo + conditioner with cleansing conditioner

• Time saving: Using cleansing conditioner instead shampoo + conditioner saves about 2-6 mins depending on length/type of hair.

• Reduces colour-fade due to less rinsing and so has environmental, time, cost and health and safety benefits (see section on hair colour).

Cleansing Conditioner•Cleansing conditioners cleanse hair and remove dirt gently without stripping it. They do not contain sulphates and therefore do not lather or strip the hair and scalp of natural oils like regular shampoo.•They eliminate the need for conditioner and therefore save water, electricity and detergents.

Video clips; http://macadamiahair.com/our-products/care-and-treatment/flawless.html#.VdNbVvlViko

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zp7S1XG_2-8

Reducing colour fade

Show video clip by Lynda Less frequent colour

This method can extend the colour process by at least another month but can be much longer. Instead of having their highlighted every 6/8 weeks this could now be 10/12 week cycle. So instead of colouring hair 9 times a year, you would only need to colouring it 5 times a year. Assuming an average of 6mins of running water per colouring process, this would save 2.04kg CO2e, 4.42kWh and 53 litres of water a year. Health and Safety benefits: Hair colour involves toxic chemicals that carry health risks and also pollute the environment.

Eco-colourEco colours are temporary hair chalks that wash out after shampooing. They give vibrant

results but contain no chemicals which benefits hair condition as ammonia destroys the protein in the hair.

• Great for clients who like to change their colour as the colour is easily removed and maintenance is minimal as colour washes out leaving no regrowth.

• They also benefit the environment as no chemicals including ammonia enter the water system.

• Social benefits to staff and clients include the reduced risk of allergies, cancer and occupational asthma due to the elimination of toxic chemicals.

Tips for application: http://kevinmurphy.com.au/video/color-bug-2/see video

How hair is washed

• Most of us wash our hair in water that is too hot. Washing hair in tepid water rather than hot water is better for the follicles. Also hot water stimulates the sebaceous glands and encourages oil production which can lead to greasy hair.

• Washing in tepid water also saves energy and money.

• An 8 minute shower at 43°C (hot) = 2.39 kWh and 1.10 kg CO₂e. A daily hot shower for a year would use 872.35 kWh and cost £166.94 (£122.13 energy + £ 44.81 water)

• A 4 minute shower at 37°C (tepid) = 0.98 kWh and 0.45 kg CO₂e. A daily tepid shower for a year would use only 357.7 kWh year and cost only £77.48 (£50.08 energy + £22.40 water).

• Most of us use too much shampoo - most shampoos contain harsh chemicals such as sodium lauryl sulphate which strip the oil from the hair

Heat free curlers• Heat free curlers allow clients to curl their hair at home without the

use of electricity which benefits the environment.• The new technology is kinder to the hair so clients can achieve

different types of curls without damaging their hair from heated appliances.

• Sleep In Rollers replace traditional rollers to provide volume• and curls.• The Aurora Night Roller gives hair a natural looking curl.• Curlformers provide defined curls or vintage waves depending upon

your desired look.

Video Clip; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJf2czv6M3E

Cost• Cost of running water = energy bill + water bill.

• Running hot water with an electric immersion boiler and a power shower head costs approximately 12.5p per minute or £365 per year for an individual showering 8 minutes daily.

• This could be reduced by 960% by using a gas-heated cylinder boiler and an eco shower head, which costs only 1.3p per minute, or £37.96 per year for an individual showering 8 minutes daily.

• How much could a salon save by turning tap off between washes?

• Work out how much could a salon save by reducing rinsing time by 3 minutes per client by having one less rinse cycle per client?

• Cost of running hairdryers and hair straighteners

• Cost of products

• Waste costs for salons

• Cost of laundry

• What other costs are there to consider?

Some of examples of cost savings• Work out how much could a salon save a year by reducing rinsing time by 3 minutes per client by having one less rinse cycle per client? May do this by shampooing once rather than twice, using leave in conditioner rather than rinse out conditioner, using cleansing conditioner rather than shampoo + condition

• Cost of running hot water - assume 5.5p per minute

• Save 3 mins per customer, assume 20 customers a day = 3 x £0.055 x 20. Per year= £3.3 X 360 = £1,188

• How much could your client save a month by having one less rinse cycle per wash (assume washes hair 3 times a week)

• = 3 x £0.055 x 156 = £25.74

Energy savings• PROVIDE SOME STATS TO SHOW THE CARBON FOOTPRINT OF 2 PEOPLE:

• High resource client: shampoos their hair every day, and with the following pattern – shampoo once, rinse, shampoo twice, rinse, condition, rinse, blow dry, straighten (showering for 8 minutes, blow drying for 10 minutes, and straighening for 10 minutes).

• Water use = 22,630 litres; energy use = 851.36 kWh; carbon footprint = 379.97 kg CO₂e

• Lower resource client: uses dry shampoo once a week, shampoos hair twice a week, and shampoos just once, uses leave-conditioner, lets hair dry to 80% dry before using hairdryer (showering for 4 minutes, blow drying for 2 minutes)

• Water use = 3,224 litres; energy use = 119.83 kWh, carbon footprint = 53.6 kg CO₂e

• Imagine if just 10% of clients changed their habits for their lifetime, as a result of your advice, and then passes advice onto to their kids.

Carbon Footprint of Shampoo

• Roughly 93% of the carbon footprint of shampoo, conditioner and other hair products is associated with heating water in the “use phase”,

• But the remaining 7% is also significant. Of the remaining 7%, 58% of the carbon footprint comprises of packaging materials, 29% product distribution, and 5% production.

• Therefore you are decreasing your carbon footprint by reducing your product consumption, as well as your hot water consumption.

Green/eco brands and products

O'right

Kevin.Murphy

Organic Colour Systems

Aveda

Davines

Iva Natura

Alterna

Eufora

Reducing Colour Waste•How? Colour mixing activities, emphasis on measuring equipment such as scales, measuring jugs and colour waste monitoring

•Why? Reduces unnecessary colour waste entering water system, saves money for the employer/college and creates additional revenue

Green Technology

•Organic and Ultra Low Ammonia Options

Affinage, Davines, Aveda, Organic Colour Systems, Sens.us, Colour.Me by Kevin.Murphy

Saving Electricity; Switching off Plug Sockets

•How? Reminders in salon around plug sockets and approaching it as a team to remind one another.

•Why? Minimises risk to learners safety, saves electricity and prolongs life of equipment.

Green Technology

•Energy efficient hairdryers; Gammu Piu IES Dryer; reduced electricity use by 44%, recyclable materials, same powerful airflow

•Professional Hair Spa; replaces the need for a climazone which requires electricity and/or plastic caps that reduce pressure on landfill

Saving Water; Switching off Shower Head

•How? Reminders in salon around basins and approaching it as a team to remind one another.

•Why? Saves water, relieves pressure on water treatment plants, helps to reduce risk of water scarcity, creates peaceful atmosphere and helps the client to relax

Green Technology

•Eco Heads; reduces water usage by 50%, purifies water for smoother blowdry, materials are 100% recyclable, enhances client experience through massage feature

Reducing Waste; Recycling

• How? Set up recycling bins in convenient places in the salon, label the recycling bins with a list a common salon waste items that can be disposed of, approach as a team

• Why? Reduces pressure on landfill, saves resources

Green Technology

• Refoil

What home-care practices are we

talking about?•Shampooing once instead of twice

•Encouraging the use of dry shampoo

•Reducing/eliminating the volume of conditioner used per wash

•Leaving hair to dry naturally as much as possible

•Reducing the use of straighteners, curling tongs and other heated appliances

The Ripple Effect in the Hair and Beauty Industry

Trainers/

Colleges

Learners

Salons

Clients

The Ripple Effect in the Hairdressing Industry

Our findings show that just one learner can go on to help clients to save a minimum of 552.02kg of carbon annually just by recommending dry shampoo

This is equivalent to preventing 402 Intelligent Energy Saving Hair Dryers from being sent to landfill (0.198 tons)

The Ripple Effect in the Hairdressing Industry

Our findings show that just one college that teaches learners about sustainable after care advice can equip their learners with the knowledge to go on to help clients to save a minimum of 39,745.22kg of carbon annually just by recommending dry shampoo

This is equivalent to taking 8.4 cars off the road annually

OR

The equivalent of preventing 23,083 barbering chairs from being sent to landfill (14.2 tons)

Advice to clients• The biggest impact you have as hairdressers is the advice you give to

your clients. Watch these clips to get some ideas on how you can integrate advice into the service you provide:

• Note to trainer: you can offer this as one long video, or break up into smaller videos.

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_MHR_HYKio&list=PLVpIMBnUZVgtubNngrelAqBXO219ypDvW

The Benefits of Spreading Such After-Care Advice for

Hairdressers

The Benefits of Spreading Such After-Care Advice for the

Environment?

The Benefits of Spreading Such After-Care Advice for

Clients?

Survey

Please complete the following survey.

Learner Survey; https://www.isurvey.soton.ac.uk/13666