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Sustainability activities in Lenzing Group Lenzing Leading Fiber Innovation
S³C summer school GIZ, Sep 2016
Dr. Krishna Manda, Senior Advisor Sustainability, Lenzing AG
15.09.2016 - 2
Contents Lenzing group and its business
Sustainability challenges for textile industry
Lenzing’s sustainable practices and innovation
Industry initiatives and tools
15.09.2016 - 5
Our core market: Man-made cellulose fibers
Produced from the raw material wood
Halfway position between natural and chemical fibers
Natural wearing properties of natural fibers combined with the advantages of
synthetical fibers such as purity and consistent quality
15.09.2016 - 7
Viscose capacity: 770,000 tons/year
Fiber production sites1)
TENCEL® capacity: 222,000 tons/year
Grimsby / UK 40,000 tons/year
Mobile / USA 50,000 tons/year
Heiligenkreuz / AT 65,000 tons/year
Lenzing / AT 67.000 t/p.a.
Purwakarta / ID 320,000 tons/year
Lenzing / AT 272,000 tons/year
Nanjing / CN 178,000 tons/year
1) all capacities as at 31/12/2014
15.09.2016 - 8
Pulp production sites1)
Dissolving wood pulp capacity: 556,000 tons/year
Paskov / CZ 260,000 tons/year
dissolving wood pulp
Lenzing / AT 296,000 tons/year
dissolving wood pulp
1) all capacities as at 31/12/2014; air-dried
15.09.2016 - 9
Lenzing fibers fields of application
Textile industry Fashion, home textiles, technical applications
Nonwovens industry Wipes, hygiene, medical and technical applications
15.09.2016 - 10
Challenges for textile industry
Climate change – higher use of Renewable Energy, energy efficiency
Water scarcity – less water use and closed cycles
Deforestation – alternative sources, certifications & their harmonization
Toxicity – closed loop processes, use of green chemicals (design)
Resource scarcity – waste reduction, closing material loops
Innovation in different levels
- Fiber innovation (feed stocks, recycling, reduce downstream impacts)
- Textile Manufacturing (ultra efficient dyeing & finishing)
- Product innovation (eg. design for recycling)
- Textile chemical innovation (toxicity, recyclability of textiles)
Sustainable consumption – new business models to reduce consumption
15.09.2016 - 11
Putting into context:
How does Lenzing contribute to
address the challenges
presented?
15.09.2016 - 13
Highly efficient use of the raw materials
The Lenzing site is fully integrated bio-refinery. Pulp production at the Lenzing site achieves a wood
utilization rate of over 50%.
15.09.2016 - 15
TENCEL® - the most sustainable fiber production process
Direct solving process
Closed-loop process
Complete recovery of solvent
15.09.2016 - 17
Lenzing‘s fiber certifications
We are proud to be able to say that…
…100 % of Lenzing‘s wood and pulp supply is either certified or from controlled*) wood sources!
*) controlled according to the standards of wood certifiers and externally verified!
15.09.2016 - 20
Modal® COLOR – CO2 emissions reductions
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
Conventionally dyed fabric Spun-dyed fabric
GH
G e
mis
sion
s, k
g eq
. CO
2/kg
fabr
ic
Wastewater treatment
Drying
Centrifuging
Softening
Washing after dyeing
Conventional fabric dyeing
Scouring
Knitting
Spinning
Mass dyeing
Modal fibre production
Fiber & fabric
contribution
80% savings-only wet
processing comparison
Wet
processing
Terinte et al. 2014
15.09.2016 - 21
Circular economy and Apparels
The global apparel market is valued at 3 trillion dollars, 3,000 billion, and accounts for 2 percent of
the world's Gross Domestic Product (GDP).
About 60 million to 75 million people are employed in the textile, garment and footwear sector (2014)
In total about 47 million tons of apparel waste per year are coming up
Sources: https://fashionunited.com/global-fashion-industry-statistics, https://cleanclothes.org/resources/publications/factsheets/
15.09.2016 - 22
Circular economy Lenzing‘s solutions for higher Resource efficiency
Lenzing Textile Recycling
Initiative
Lenzing bio-refinery products
Pulp (42 %)
Acetic acid
Furfural
Xylose
Lignosulphonate
Soda
Energy (48%)
Waste from
garment making
Pulp production
Fiber production
Spinning
Textile formation
Garment making
Consumer use
End of life
15.09.2016 - 23
Recycling innovation – a collaborative Eco-system
Every actor in the value chain has a role to play to accelerate the recycling innovation process
Supply chain
Processing recycled fibres
Collecting cutting
waste Using prescribed
chemicals Brands and
Retailers
Design for recyclability
Create business models
for closed loop products Arrange collection etc.
Consumers Use products for
intended life-time Bring to take-
back systems
Collection and
separation
Lenzing Innovates technology of
cellulose recycling – post industrial and post consumer waste
Chemical Co. Develop dyes, finishes
and other chemiclas
suitable for recycling
15.09.2016 - 24
Sustainability – Our current activities
Alignment of Sustainability Strategy and business strategy sCore TEN
Sustainability Report for 2017
Man-made cellulose fibers – solution pathway (Canopy & brands/retailer)
Update of Lenzing Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
Support of internal functions (fiber & application assessments and screening of R&D and business management projects, supplier assessments, strategy, stakeholder inquiries – customer, rating agencies)
Co-operation: Plant for the Planet (Conservation initiatives)
Engagement with NGOs, initiatives (SAC, TE, EDANA, Canopy, Bündnis Textil, CIRFS, IVC, EU PEF, Water Footprint Network, academic co-operations)
15.09.2016 - 25
Working together for industry improvement Individual company efforts are not sufficient to address wicked problems e.g. circular economy
(design for recycling), climate change etc.
Shared meaning and performance: How do we ensure what we mean and how we do it is
consistent across value chain partners within a sector?
Reducing redundancy and costs of assessments
Bringing momentum and create healthy competition for sustainability progress (benchmarking,
communication to consumers etc.)
Multi-stakeholder initiatives
15.09.2016 - 26 Sustainable Apparel Coalition 26
Audit Fatigue Plagues The Industry
Sustainable Apparel Coalition 26
In 2009, Patagonia & Walmart Had A
Radical Mission:
Collect peers and competitors from across the
apparel, footwear and textile sector and together,
develop a universal approach to measuring
sustainability performance.
15.09.2016 - 27 Sustainable Apparel Coalition 27
The Coalition Stakeholders
Sustainable Apparel Coalition
Our Vision
An apparel, footwear, and
home textiles industry that
produces no unnecessary
environmental harm and has a
positive impact on the people
and communities associated
with its activities.
Sustainable apparel coalition
15.09.2016 - 28 Sustainable Apparel Coalition 28
The Coalition Stakeholders
Sustainable Apparel Coalition 28
Brands
Retailers
Government
Nonprofits
Industry Associations
Manufacturers
Service Providers
Academia
Sustainable Apparel Coalition Data to Drive Change: How Higg Assesses Impact at All Stages of the Product Lifecycle 30
Higg Tools for each step along the Supply Chain
DESIGN & PRODUCTION
Design & Developments Module
CONSUMERS & COMMUNITIES
Product Environmental Footprint
(due 2018)
RETAIL
Retail Module Pilot
(due 2017)
RAW MATERIALS
Materials Sustainability Index (MSI)
MANUFACTURERS
Facilities Environment Module (FEM)
Facilities Social/Labor Module
(FSLM)
LOGISTICS
Brand Environment Module (BEM)
Brand Social/Labor Module (BSLM)
15.09.2016 - 31
Certificates, Eco-Labels and Awards
VÖNIX (Austrian Sustainability Index)
The European Eco-Label (European Flower)
Responsible Care
Oeko-Tex Standard 100
European Award for the Environment
PEFC (Chain of Custody)
FSC (Chain of Custody)
Compostable (Din Certco, Vincotte, US BPI)
Home compostable (Vincotte)
Biodegradable (Vincotte)
ECOCERT ERTS (Standard TENCEL)
USDA Biobased
Food contact compliance
etc.