surface technique

8/7/2019 surface technique

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/surface-technique 1/14

´Dressmaking is the architecture of movement.µPierre Balmain



BALMAINBalmain is a fashion house that was founded by Pierre Balmain.

Pierre Alexandre Claudius Balmain was a French fashion

designer. Known for sophistication and elegance, he once said

that "dressmaking is the architecture of movement.µ

Balmain's father, who died when the future designer was 7 yearsold, was the owner of a wholesale drapery business. Balmain

studied architecture at the Ecole des Beaux Arts, but did not

complete his studies. He spent his time there designing dresses.

Balmain then left his architectural studies to work for thefashion designer Edward Molyneux, for whom he worked from

1934 until 1939.

In the period following World War II, Pierre Balmain was "a kingof French fashion" and outfitted stars including Ava Gardner and

Brigitte Bardot.

After Pierre Balmain's death in 1982, the house was led by Erik

Mortensen, described by Vogue as Pierre Balmain's "right hand.µ

Oscar de la Renta led the house between 1993 and 2001. UnderPierre Balmain, Mortensen, and de la Renta, the house was

known for its classic, luxurious designs. Today, the house is led

by designer Christophe Decarnin, whose vision for the house is

more modern and edgier. Christophe Decarnin at SS 10



Surface Ornamentation andDesign techniques :

The USP of Balmain



The use of studded shoes, metallic stone-

encrusted trophy jackets with peaked shoulders,

distressed jeans and super embellished mini

dresses has become synonymous with Balmain. To

say the least, the surface embellishments add aterrific zing to his garments and any woman would

feel like a supermodel in them.

The USP of the fashion house is such that you can

expect theatrical like drama oozing from the

garments in such a way that one is left to wonderwhat a brilliant job Decarnin has done on a simple

body con mini dresses, a simple jacket or skinny

jeans.It's the kind of shameless pop-

bedazzled energy that won Gianni

Versace a reputation for tackiness in

the high eighties, but also took him

to the top. In other words, yes, it's

a cliché, but so well done only a

true sadist could fail to smile.



SS-10

Christophe Decarnin is the man on whose glittery, highly padded

shoulders rests the success of the whole of the mass market as it

currently stands.

His army of sizzling, sleek-limbed super girls strode out with huge-

shouldered, metal-epauletted military tailcoats. Their T-shirts were

tattered; bullet belts were slung around artfully "destroyed," stained,

and holed jeans or, yet more sensationally, minute, hyper-sexed,

raggedy suede and leather loincloths.

Patching together seventies M*A*S*H and early Versace chain-mailed

goddess-dressing, the show moved from camouflage to sequined

camouflage to patch-worked gold-sequined camouflage without a

flicker of irony.

A belt with bullets arranged in a flower pattern or a military shirt with

shrapnel holes filled in with gold patches was a fashion demeanor

which was highly noticeable.

Tattered t shirts and holed and stained jeans



Metal epaulettedmilitary tailcoats

Tattered t-shirts and

ragged loincloths as

skirts

Chain mailed dresses

Gold patched tops

Artfully holed andstained jeans



FABRICS

Gold and

silver lame

Stretch

cotton and

knits

Leather

Rexene

Polyester

Suede

drill



Decarnin certainly proved he's the leader of

the disco fever he had single-handedlytriggered this season.

He had the shortest, tightest body dresses

witnessed anywhere: smothered in Swarovski

crystal, flouncing up at the shoulder, tightly

bound in satin drape or quilted, chain-wrapped

black leather.The cult peaked-shoulder Balmain jacket was

reiterated in force: same signature shape, now

manifested as a leather biker as well as a

tuxedo jacket, and often paired with new

drapey harem pants or skinny jean-cut black

trousers.Every look was thrust into deep-cuffed suede

boots with a stack of silver buckles running up

the side.

FW 09

Embellished peaked shoulders and harem pants





Balmains Spring show all bling and rock-chick

fabulousness gave the opening of Paris fashionweek a shot of pure adrenalin. For a girl

looking for an instant backstage pass, this is

the wardrobe that will send her sailing past the

heaviest security on sight.

Drummer-boy Michael Jackson jackets with thefogging picked out in crystal, soaped-up

stonewashed jeans, bandage-wrap dresses,

sequin-smothered sheaths, teeny tutus,

teetering sky-high diamante-and-stud sandals:

A brilliant new shoulder with a bump-peaked

swagger on jackets and dresses. He's also got

to be credited as the person who's set the

wagons rolling on western (his fringed high-

heel ankle boots were last season's most-

hunted objects of footwear desire). A black

suede gown with a rawhide train blazed a trail

that copyists will be following overnight.

SS-09

Michael Jackson inspired

rocker jackets with crystal

details and stone washed

jeans.



Sequin embellished bandage dresses, fully

embellished dresses, belted tutus, trophy jackets

Chain mailed bands

Sequin appliquéd

Net embroidery and

Swarovskiembellished

Lacquered fabric

patches

Metal studded

skirt

Swarovskiyoke

Billie jean look



A mix of Native Americans and India .It's alsoabout freedom. Jumping headlong into the

season's nouveau boho trend, he opened with

a strapless dress, its bodice densely beaded

and its long, flowing skirts rendered in a soft,

pastel floral shot through with gold Lurex.

From there, Decarnin wandered through

ponchos, one with a beaded eagle emblazoned

on the chest, as well as sequined smocks and

mirrored mosaic suede vests worn with

slouchy tees and flaring jeans.

The body con dresses came in tie-dye, a

feather print, or beaded macramé. Evident

throughout was the designer's unbridled

affection for embellishment. Confronted with

an unadorned surface, he'll add studs, fringe,

or lacing anything to make his girls sparkle

after dark.

SS-08



Fringed hem

Feather detail

on the yoke

Zardozi and cut

work on the jacketand fringed pants

Gota and mirror

work with

feather detail

Fringed layers

Macramé dress

Zardozi and

appliqué

FABRICS

Cotton

Chiffon

Georgette

Voile

Polyester

Soft knits

Indian-bohemian inspired



ACCESSORIES AND DETAIL

Documents

surface technique