SUPPORT MATERIALS.ppt

8/18/2019 SUPPORT MATERIALS.ppt

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INTRODUCTION:1. S.M ARE USED TO ENHANCE THE“APPEARANCE”, & “PERFORMANCE” OF

THE GARMENTS.

2. FASHION TRENDS TEND TO CREATE

THE DEMAND OF DIFFERENT TYPES OFSUPPORT MATERIALS.


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4. SUPPORT MATERIALS SELDOM AREMENTIONED IN THE LABELS.

5. S.M MUST BE COMPACTIBLE WITH THESHELL FABRICS.

. SELECTION & APPLICATION OF SUPPORTMATERIALS PLAY MA!OR ROLE INSUCCESS & PERFORMANCE OF THE STYLEOF THE GARMENT.


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1. S.M ARE IMP. INTRINSIC "UALITY OFGARMENTS & USED FOR PRO#IDING“SHAPE”, “STABILITY”, “REINFORCEMENT ATSTRESS POINTS”, “RETENTION IN ORIGINALAPPEARANCE”, & “CONCEAL THE INTERIORSOF THE GARMENT”.

2. SE#ERAL & DIFFERENT TYPES OF S.M AREUSED FOR GARMENTS, BUT NOT ALLGARMENTS RE"UIRE S.M.


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$. S.M ARE OFTEN UNI"UE TO THE SPECIFICFUNCTION FOR WHICH IT HAS BEENDE#ELOPED.

4. THEY ARE A#AILABLE IN WIDE #ARIETYSWITH #ARIETY OF PHYSICALCHARACTERISTICS, PERFORMANCES &COSTS.

5. MANUFACTURERS SHOULD DETERMINE THE NEED FOR S.M IN A PARTICULARSTYLE DURING SAMPLE DE#ELOPMENT.


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%. MANUFACTURERS MAY ALSO CONSIDER“MATERIAL SPECIFICATIONS”, “

TECHNICAL INFORMATION”, & “PRODUCT TEST RESULTS” BY SUPPLIERS.

. MANUFACTURERS MAY ALSO DO THE

TEST IN THE FIRM BCO' OF CANGES IN THE STYLE, PIECE GOODS, & MATERIALS.

1(. USE OF IMPROPER S.M BECOMESAPPARENT AFTER A PEROD OF TIME.


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1. FOR COMAPCTIBILITY TWO THINGS ARE IMP.“ASTHETIC” & “PERFORMANCE”. THESEPROPERTIES AFFECT THE COMAPCTIBILITY OFS.M WITH FABRIC & APPLICATION METHODS.

2. THE FACTORS THAT AFFECT THECOMPACTIBILTY ARE “ HAND”, “FLE)IBILITY”,

“HEAT SENSITI#ITY”, “PRESSURESENSITI#ITY”.


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1. ARE THE MATERIALS THAT ARE FUSED ORSEWN TO THE SPECIFIC AREAS OF THEGARMENT OR GARMENT COMPONENTS.

2. THEY PRO#IDE “SHAPE”, “SUPPORT”,“REINFORCEMENT”, “IMPRO#EDPERFORMANCE” OF THE GARMENTS.

$. HUNDERDS OF INERLININGS ARE PRO#IDEDBY THE SUPPLIERS TO DIFFERENT #ARIETYSOF FABRICS.


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4. BUT SOMETIMES SPECIAL INTERLININGSARE ENGINEERED BY SUPLLIERS.

5. SELECTION OF INTERLININGS WITHAPPROPRIATE PROPERTIES FOR FABRIC &STYLE RE"UIRES *NOWLEDGE,PROCESS

TO BE USED & COMPACTIBITLITY

FACTORS..ETC.. AS STYLING RE"IURES CHANGE,

PRODUCERS OF INTERLININGS CREATENEW #ARIETY OF FABRICS WITH

DIFFERENT WEIFHTS & FIBRE CONTENT &ALSO BUL*INESS.


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1.THE MAIN FUCTIONS OF INTERLININGS ARE• TO GI#E GREAT PERFORMANCE• TO GI#E ASTHETIC APPEARNACE.2 . PERFORMANCE :• INTERLININGS PERFORMANCE MAY BE

E#ALUATED BY 2 WAYS “PERFORMANCEDURING PRODUCTION” & “PERFORMANCE

IN THE FINISHED GARMENT”.


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$.MANUFACTURERS MAY SELCT CERTAIN

TYPES OF INTERLININGS TO GI#E“HANDLING” & IMPRO#E SEWABILITY OF THE FABRICS.

4. INTERLINGS ARE ALSO USED UNDEREMBROIDERY TO STABILISE FABRICS FOR

BETTER STITCHING.


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1. APPROPRIATE CHOSEN INTERLININGSPRO#IDE THE FOUNDATION FOR “SHAPE”& “HAND” OF THE GARMENTS &STABILITY TO MAINTAIN THE SAMEDURING USE, CARE,& STORAGE.

2. A FIRM WITH HIGH "UALITY STANDARSMAY DETERMINE THE SHRIN*AGE OFEITHER INTERLINING OR FABRIC ISUNACCEPTABLE.

$. THE HAND PROPERTY REFERS TO“DRAPE”, “STIFFNESS” & “SOFTNESS” OF

THE MATERIAL USED IN THE GARMENT.


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4. THE FACTORS THAT AFFECT THE HANDARE “CHEMICAL COMPOSITION”,“STRUCTURE”, “COATING”, & “RESINS”MAY AFFECT THE HAND PROPERTY.

5. A INTERLINING MAY BE STIFF BUT LIGHTWEIGHTED WITHOUT BUL*. STIFFNESS IS

RE"UIRED TO THOSE GARMENTS THATRE"UIRES A SUPPORT.. INTERLININGS WITH TOO STIFF CAUSE

ROLLED EDGES TO BREA* & BUC*LE.

%. SOME COLLAR STYLES RE"UIRES SOFT,BUT NOT LIMP.


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1. FACTORS THAT CONTRIBUTE THECHARCTERISTICS OF INTERLININGS ARE “FIBRECONTENT”, “WEIGHT”, & “FABRICATION”.

2. FABRIC CONTENT:• FABRIC CONTENT CONTRIBUTES TO

“STRENGTH”, “HAND”, “WEIGHT”, &“RESILENCY” OF THE INETERLINING.

•

PLOYSTER & NYLON ARE OFTEN USED IN FIBREWEBS, WO#ENS & *NITS TO CONTRIBUTE TOSTRENGTH, STABILITY, & RESILENCY.


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• MONOFILAMENT NYLON FIBRE MAY BEUSED FOR STIFFNESS & RESILENCY

PRODUCING LIGHT WEIGHT MATERIAL WITHLITTLE BUL*.

• THE CONTRIBUTION OF COTTON & RAYONIS SOFTNESS & HAND. WOOL & HAIRFIBRES MAY BE USED TO PRO#IDE THE

RESILENCY & COMPACTIBILITY WITH WOOLPIECES GOODS.


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WEIGHT: INTERLINIG ARE A#AILABLE IN WIDE

RANGE OF WEIGHS FROM (.4 TO 4.(OUNCES+S".YD.

HEA#IER INTERLININGS PRO#IDE MORESUPPORT FOR HEA#IER & STRUCTURED

GARMENTS SUCH AS COATS,SUITS. LIGHT WEIGHT INTERLININGS PRO#IDE

RESILENCY & SOFT HAND & SOMESUPPORT.


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1. INERLININGS ARE A#AILABLE IN 4 BASICFORMATIONS.• FIBRE WEBS• WO#ENS•

*NITS

2. FIBRE WEBS MAY HA#E “LESS STRENGHT”,BUTDO NOT RA#EL IN HANDLING.

$. THE PERFORMANCE OF FIBRE WEBINTERLINING IS CLOSELY LIN*ED TO “FIBRECONTENT”, “FABRIC WEIGHT”, “FIBREORIENATION”, IN THE WEB.


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4. FIBRE WEBS ARE HA#ING FIBRES OF“RANDOMLY DISTRIBUTED” OR“ORIENTED IN LENGTH WISE DIRECTION”.

5. LENGTH WISE ORIENT WEBS PRO#IDESTRENGHT IN LENGTHWISE DIRECTION.

. PILLING IS MA!OR PROBLEM OFTEN

ASSOCIATED WITH FIBRE WEBS SINCEFIBRE WEBS TEND TO HA#E LOWABRASION RESISTANCE.

%. ABRASION FROM THE GARMENT ITSELFMAY CAUSE PILLS TO FORM WITH THESHELL FABRIC.


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WO#EN INTERLININGS:1. ARE USUALLY PLAIN WEA#E & PRODUCED

BY ALMOST E#ERY FIBRE.2. THE FABRICATION PROCESS IS

E)PENSI#E.$. THESE INTERLINES HA#E RA#ELING &

SHRIN*AGE PROBLEM.4. THE PERFORMANCE OF THE INTERLINING

CAN ALTER THE PERFORMANCE OF SHELLFABRIC.

5. WO#EN INTERLININGS USED IN COLLARS,FRONT PLAC*ET, CUFFS.


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*NIT INTERLININGS:

1. USED FOR INTERLINING ARE PRIMARILYWARP *NIT TRICOTS, RASCHELS.

1. THESE INTERLINIGS ARE PRODUCED IN#ARIETY OF WEIGHTS.


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INTERLINING APPLICATIONS: THERE ARE 2 BASIC MEANS OF APPLYING

INTERLININGS.• FUSIBLE INTERLININGS• NON FUSIBLE INTERLININGS.1. FUSIBLE INTERLININGS:• ARE FABRICATIONS COATED WITH FOAM

OF RESIN OR ADHESI#ES THAT SER#ESAS A BONDING AGENT TO HOLD THE

INTERLINIGS TO THE SHELL FABRICS.


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• THE SHELL FABRICS MAY BE OF WO#ENS,*NITS.

• F.I MUST BE FUSED TO SHELL FABRICPRIOR TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF THEGARMENT COMPONENT.

• THE FUSIBLE PROCESS USUALLYRE"UIRES THE GARMENT PIECES BEINDI#IDUALLY MATCHED WITH INTERLINGPIECES & THEN FUSED TOGETHER.

• FUSED GARMENTS COMPONENTS HA#EMORE WEIGHT, DO NOT RA#EL & EASY

TO HANDLE WHILE SEWING.


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• FUSING IS PROCESS OF BONDING FABRICLAYER BY APPLICATION OF HAET & PRESSUREFOR A SPECIFIC AMOUNT OF TIME.

• THE TIME RE"IURED FOR FUSING IS CALLED“DWELL TIME”.

• THE PRECISE OF FUSING PROCESS DEPENDSON $ ELEMENTS.

• HAET SOFETNS THE RESIN ON THE INTERLINE• PRESSURE THAT RESIN & FORCES IT ON TO

THE FABRIC SURFACE.•

TIME NEEDED FOR APPLICATION OF HAET &PRESSURE.


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• COOLING TIME IS ALSO NECESSARY TOALLOW THE RESIN TO SET IN THE FABRIC.

•

FUSING MAY ASLO RE"UIRES MORELABOUR INITIALLY BUT IT MAY ALSOREDUCE HANDLING & IRREGULARITIES INASSEMBLING.

• THE TYPES OF E"UIPMENT USED IN THEFUSING IS

• ROLLER PRESSES•

FLAT BED PRESSES• CONTINEOUS PRESSING MACHINE• IRONS


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ROLLER PRESSES ARE OCCASSIONALLYUSED FOR FUSING INTERLININGS.

THEY HA#E MORE CONSISTENCY IN HEAT,PRESSURE & TIME. FOR FLATBED PRESSES GARMENT PIECES

ARE PLACED FACE DOWN ON CONTINEOS

TRAY OR CARRIER & FUSINGINTERLININGS ARE PLACED ONACCURATLY ON THE GARMENT PIECE.

THE FUSED PIECES ARE STAC*ED &BUNDLED FOR NE)T PROCESS.


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CONTINEOUS PRESSING M+C ARE HA#INGHIGH PRODUCTI#IY & CONROLLED HAET& PRESSURE THROUGH OUT THEPROCESS.

HE INITIAL COST IS #ERY HIGH. THE IRONS HA#E LIMITED USE IN FUSING

INTERLINING. THEY MAY BE USED FORAPPLICATION OF SMALL PIECES OF F.I TOREINFORCE STRESS POINTS IN THEGARMENT.

THE MAIN PROBLEM WITH IRON FUSINGIS INCONSISTENCY OF PRESSURE , DWELL

TIME & TEMP.


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• SEWING INTERLININGS:• SEWIN INTERLINING ARE SEWN DIRECTLY

COMPONENT. THEY RE"UIRE E)TRAHANDLING & MANIPULATIONS DURINGSEWING PROCESS.

• SEWING RE"IURES PROPER PLACEMENT

& ACCURATE GRAIN ALLINGMENT. THEYMAY STRETCH OR DISTORT AS SEWNCAUSING SEAM PUC*ERING & TWISTING.

• IF APPLIED CORRECTLY SEWN -ININTERLINES ARE TEND TO HA#E FEWERPERFORMANCE PROBLEMS THANFUSIBLES.


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SEWIN INTERLINES MAY ATTACHED ATDIFFERNET STAGES DURING

CONSRUCTION OF COMPONENT. THE MORE SEWING THAT IS DONE TO

SECURE THE INTERLININGS, THE LESS THE DISTORTION OF THE GARMENT.

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SUPPORT MATERIALS.ppt