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The Classic Tailored Shirt with Pam Howard
Supplies & Instructions
Required and Optional Supplies
Next
Required Supplies•Useoneofthefollowingpatternswiththeclass:KwikSew#3555(MissesS-XL);KwikSew#3027(fittedversionwithdarts,MissesS-XL);KwikSew#3586(plus-size);orKwikSew#3422(men’sversion)
•Size12universalorsharpsewingmachineneedles
•Hand-sewingneedles:Sharpsandatleastonewithalargeeye
•Paper(totraceoffyoursizefromtheoriginalifdesired)
•Basicsewingsupplies•Dressmakershears•Small,sharp-pointscissorsfortrimmingseams
•Seamgauge•Ruler•Seamripper•Pointturner•Measuringtape•Pins(high-gradesteelifpossible,becausepinsmadeofnickelsometimesleavemarksinlight-coloredfabrics)
•Tailor’schalk•Pressingcloth(apieceofthefabriccanbeusedforone)
Optional Supplies•Teflonironshoe•Sleeveboard•Tailor’sham•Sleeveroll•Pointpresser/clapper•Buttonholecutterandblock
Women’s Shirt FabricSuggestedFabrics:cotton,cottontypes,shirtings,rayon&blends,chambray,broadcloth.
S-XL:atleast2½ydof45"-widefabricOR2ydof60"-widefabric
1X–2⁵⁄₈yd(45"wide)OR2yd(60"wide)
2X–2¾yd(45"wide)OR2yd(60"wide)
3X–2 ⁷⁄₈yd(45"wide)OR2yd(60"wide)
4X–3yd(45"wide)OR21/8yd(60"wide)
Men’s Shirt FabricSuggestedFabrics:cotton,cottontypes,shirtings,rayon&blends,chambray,broadcloth.
S:atleast2¼ydof45"-widefabricOR2ydof60"-widefabric
M:2 3/8yd(45”wide)OR2yd(60"wide)
L:2½yd(45"wide)OR2 1⁄₈yd(60"wide)
XL:3yd(45"wide)OR2 1⁄₈yd(60"wide)
XXL:31⁄₈yd(45"wide)OR2¼yd(60"wide)
Notions•½"-widebuttons•8formisses’sizes•11formen’ssizes
•Interfacing(atleast½yd)•Goodqualitythread(Metrosene,Gutermann,orDualDutyCoats&Clark)
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The Classic Tailored Shirt with Pam Howard
Supplies & Instructions
Resources
Supplieswww.wawak.comTheyhavelotsofsewingsupplies,includingtailor’schalk
www.fashionsewingsupply.comforinterfacings,buttons,etc.
www.clover-usa.comfortheDoubleTracingwheel
Shirting Fabrics
www.moodfabrics.com
www.gorgeousfabrics.com
www.emmaonesock.com
www.fabric.com
www.michaelsfabrics.com
[email protected] Japanesecottonhand-bastingthread,glass-headstainlesssteelpins,handsewingneedles,etc.Nowebsite,pleasecontactviae-mailtoorder
www.bonash.comIronslideironshoe
BooksShirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine SewingbyDavidPageCoffin(TauntonPress,1998)
Infoonconstructingallkindsofshirts,greatillustrationsbytheauthor,andpicturesofbeautifulshirts
Reader’s Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing (Updated edition, 2010)
Awonderfulresourcebookforanyonewhosews!
Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every FigurebySandraBetzina(TauntonPress,2003)
Includesmanysolutionsforcommonfittingissues
Fitting and Pattern Alteration, a Multi-Method Approach byLeichty,Pottberg,andRasband(SecondEdition,FairchildPublications,2009)
Infoandsolutionstomanyfittingissues
End
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The Classic Tailored Shirt with Pam Howard
Supplies & Instructions
Lay Out, Cut Out 101
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With nap: Thesurfaceofthefabricistexturedorfuzzy-feeling.Thepatternpiecesshouldbelaidallinonedirectionoranotherdependingonthelookorfeelyouprefer.Examples:velvet,corduroy,pilefabrics,fakefur.
Without nap: Thesurfaceofthefabricissmoothandthepatternpiecesmaybeplacedineitherlengthwisedirection.Examples:solidcolorfabrics,alloverprints.
One-way design:Designsarewovenorprintedonthefabricinsuchawaythatrequiresyoutolaypatternpiecesinonedirection.Examples:floralprints,oranyprintorpatternwithadefinite“up”or“down.”
Shading:Whenlookingatthefabriclengthwisefromtoptobottom,thenbottomtotop,noticehowthelighthitsthesurfacedifferently.Patternpiecesshouldbeplacedinonedirectionoranother.Examples:satin,mattevelvet.
Plaids or stripes: Dependingonthetypesofplaidsandthewidthofstripes,patternsmayneedtobecutoutinasinglelayertoinsuretheymatchwherepossible.
Obvious diagonals:Fabricsthatarewoveninadiagonalpatternorprintedwitha
designthatrunsdiagonallyacrossthefabricsurface.Itisalmostimpossibletomatchpieces(visually)whensewntogether.
Selvage (or selvedge): Thestripattheedgeofthefabricformedwhenthefabriciswoven.Itrunsthelengthofthefabric.
Lengthwise grain (warp):Thestrongestyarnsofthefabricthatrunparalleltotheselvage
Crosswise grain (weft):Yarnsarewovenatrightanglestothelengthwiseyarns.Theseyarnshavemoregive(stretch)thanthelengthwise(warp)yarns.
True bias:The45-degreeanglebetweenthelengthwiseandcrosswiseyarns.Thisiswherethefabrichasthemoststretch.
Remember to:
•Makeallpatternadjustmentsbeforelayingthepatternoutonthefabric.
•Makesurethatthefabricgrainisstraight.Ifnot,trytostraightenit.Off-grainfabricsareunsuitableformakingyourprojects.
•Cutthecorrectnumberofpatternpiecesforthedesign.
•Layoutallofthepatternpiecesbeforeyoubegintocut.
The process of laying out fabrics and cutting out patterns is one of the most important steps in the garment-making process. Here are some terms commonly found on the back of the pattern envelope or inside the guide sheet, with some helpful definitions.
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The Classic Tailored Shirt with Pam Howard
Supplies & Instructions
Shirt Front Diagram
“V”clipsindicateCenterFrontandBackORCenterFoldsORCentersofpatternpieces.
Placetailor’stacksalongtheCenterFront,atthepocketcornersandatallotherpointsinthepatternthatyouneedtomark.
*IndicatesTailor’sTack.
**
**
*** **
Pocket placement (left side)C
en
ter F
ron
t
Fold
Lin
e Fold
Lin
e
V c
lipSn
ip
Snip
V c
lip
Snip
Snip
*
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The Classic Tailored Shirt with Pam Howard
Supplies & Instructions
Tower Placket Template & Pattern
Copyright©2012CraftsyandSympozInc.
Stoppingpointonoriginalpattern
*Placeunderneathpattern.Thissideup!Patternrightsideup!
Tower Placket Template Tower Placket Pattern
Fold
Lin
e
Fold
Lin
e
Fold
Lin
e
Stitc
hin
g L
ine
Gra
inlin
e
Stitc
hin
g L
ine
Fold
Lin
e
X
Butt
on
ho
le
