Success with

Container Gardening

Created exclusively for Craftsy by Meredith Skyer

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Meet the Expert

A Crash Course in Container Gardening

The Best Plants for Your Container Garden

The Real Dirt on Potting Soil

Window Boxes: They’re Not Just for Flowers, Grow Edibles Instead

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MEET THE EXPERT

MEREDITH SKYER

Meredith Skyer is a freelance writer and photographer from Rochester, NY. She runs a tiny urban farm where she raises livestock, grows food, and creates whimsical works of art. She blogs about her adventures at ImaginAcres, where art meets farm.

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A CRASH COURSEIN CONTAINER GARDENING

Container gardening is so similar and yet so different from growing in ground that it deserves its own spot in the sun. We’re about to take you through a crash course on growing plants in pots and show you everything you could possibly need to know to get started.

POTS

The first step to successful container gardening is to uncover the mystery surrounding the pots and containers you’ll have to choose from.

There are as many types of containers to grow in as there are plants to put in them.

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Practically anything that can hold soil and drain out water can be planted in. You can get creative by planting in food containers, boxes, bags, tires — some people even put plants in old boots!

There are some things to keep in mind when choosing a container. If you’re growing food, your container needs to be food-safe. Beware

that many plastics release toxins when they heat up, and many old metal, glass or ceramic containers could be laced with nasty elements, such as lead. Better safe than sorry when growing fruits and vegetables and go with a food-safe container that was made for holding plants.

The first most important consideration for choosing a pot for your plants is material.

There are many choices to be made in this department. Pots can be made from wood, resin, fiberglass, metal, concrete, plastic and ceramic, both glazed and unglazed.

Any of these options are fine for growing in, but there are subtle differences between them that may help you make up your mind.

• Plastic and fiberglass pots are great for growing large plants that require pounds of soil. They’re lightweight and easier to move if needed, and they will stand up to any type of weather without trouble.

• Untreated wood pots work fine in the short-term, but will rot after a few years of use, and treated wood pots shouldn’t be used for growing edibles due to chemical leaching.

• Unglazed ceramic pots tend to suck water away from the soil, which can be a good or a bad thing, depending on the type of plant inside. Unglazed pots also shouldn’t be left outside in cold weather, as the absorbed water will freeze and crack the pot. This is something to take into consideration if you need to leave your potted plant outside all year round.

The second most important quality a pot can have is decent drainage holes.

Proper drainage is the most important aspect of container gardening. Make sure your pot has a large drainage hole, or several holes in the bottom. If you’re using metal, wood or plastic pots, it’s easy enough to add extra drainage holes, but it’s very difficult with ceramic, so make sure you’re good to go from the start.

Many gardeners put a filter in the bottom of the pot to keep soil in and let water out. This can be as simple as a coffee filter laid in the bottom, or a piece of wire screening. It’s totally optional and only a matter of preference.

The Gravel Myth: It’s important for anyone getting into container gardening to know that the gravel/broken pottery/rocks in the bottom

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of a pot to help drainage is an absolute myth, and will in fact have the opposite effect of holding more water in the soil. If you’re desperate for better drainage, try adding more drainage holes, or more perlite to your potting mix.

SOIL

When it comes to growing plants in containers, it’s truly all about the soil. You can be the best caretaker in the land, but your plants won’t thrive unless the soil is the best it can be.

If you’re growing plants in containers, you really must use potting mix/soil. Many people mistakenly think you can take soil straight out of the garden, put it in a pot and be done with it.

Garden soil is heavy with clay, which makes it hard for water to drain out in a timely manner. When water sits in the soil too long, it can cause the roots to rot or fungus to grow, which means sure death to your plants.

If your potting mix is light and fluffy when you get it, make sure to thoroughly soak it with water before planting in it. We’ll talk more about potting soil later, including how to make your own.

Another thing to keep in mind is specialty plants need specialty soil. For growing cacti or succulents, make sure to buy potting soil formulated for your needs. These plants need a soil that will hold less water and drain more quickly.

WATERING

Plants in containers need to be watered more frequently than plants in the ground. Since their roots can’t dig deep into the ground to find water, they are at the mercy of their caretaker to provide it whenever they need it. Check to see if your potted plants need water at least every other day, and several times a day in hot weather. An easy check for moisture is to stick a finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If you feel no moisture, it’s time to water.

Potted plants can be so thirsty in the summer that it can become a nuisance. In this case, it may be a good idea to invest in some self-watering pots, or make some yourself.

FERTILIZATION

Just as potted plants are thirstier than their ground-dwelling friends, they’re also hungrier. If your potting mix was made with time-release fertilizer, your plants will be better equipped to survive, but should still be supplemented with liquid or foliar fertilizer. If your potting mix is the

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bare minimum, plan to fertilize around every other week to keep your plants in optimal health. Remember, they can’t go rooting through the depths of the garden for the nutrients they need, they depend on you for everything.

PLANTING

There are a few things to think about before getting out the trowel and getting to work on planting. Plants that are suddenly thrust into a new environment can get sunburned, wilt or topple over from wind. They can also go into transplant shock and die from the sudden changes. Delicate plants and seedlings need to be hardened off before set into their final outdoor space. Start by leaving it outside, in partial sun (if possible on a wind-free day with no rain) for 10 minutes. Increase the time by 10 minutes every day for a week, then leave it out for half the day, and finally all night. This will strengthen the plant and allow it to slowly adapt to its new life.

A NOTE ON ROOT-BOUND PLANTS

A root-bound plant is one that has been in too small a container for too long, and the roots have spun round and round the container, making a giant root knot. This situation must be remedied before transplanting it to the ground or a larger pot.

First, gently loosen the roots as best you can, and if they’re so tight they won’t budge, make a few vertical scores with a sharp knife. Next, set the roots of the plant in a bucket of water and let it sit until it stops bubbling. This may take a few seconds or many minutes. These steps will help the roots better absorb water in its new home and will make for better contact with the soil.

HOW TO PLANT IN A CONTAINER

When you remove the plant from its current home, be as gentle as possible and try not to disturb the roots. It’s usually easiest to remove a plant from its pot when the soil is very dry. Squeeze or tap the pot if the plant is stuck, or run a knife around the edges. Never pull hard on the plant stem to get it out.

The soil line in the pot should be at least an inch lower than the rim of the pot. Dig a hole in the middle to the estimated depth of the plant and its root ball. Some plants, such as tomatoes, can be buried up to their top leaves and will sprout new roots out of the stem where it comes in contact with soil. Research before planting, and take this into account for the depth. Fill in around the plant and press it gently downward. Always water thoroughly after planting in pots, and continue to water for a few days to make transplanting easier. After a week, give the plant some fertilizer to give it a jumpstart into its new life.

Phew! There you have it. Container gardening in a nutshell. It’s a lot to take in for someone just getting started, but every aspect laid out here is important to remember to find success with container gardening.

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THE BEST PLANTSFOR YOUR CONTAINER GARDEN

If you’ve been dreaming of a beautiful backyard garden but don’t have a lot of space, a container garden is your answer. An abundance of plants can be grown in containers on patios, decks, balconies and rooftops. As long as you have access to some sun, you can grow in pots. I’m sure you’re wondering now just what types of plants you can grow in containers? Well, wonder no more, you’re about to find out!

Decorative plants

FLOWERS

Flowers are a fantastic choice for pots, and you can get really creative with varieties. Practically any flower will flourish in a container, from the almighty orchid to the simple and sweet petunia. It would be quicker to name the types of flowers that can’t grow in pots, so if flowers are your fancy, head on down to the garden store and pick out some beauties for your new container garden!

SUCCULENTS

Succulents are a great addition to any container garden. They look beautiful mixed and matched together and due to their short root systems, they can grow in practically any sized container. Be sure to get special potting soil for these guys as they like good drainage. Buy potting soil made for cactus and water only when the soil dries out.

TERRARIUMS

You can add some intrigue and wonder to any room in your home with a lovely terrarium. These can be simple or incredibly complex. The basics for a beautiful terrarium is an inch of pebbles or small stones in the bottom of your glass container, then a layer of activated charcoal, followed by a layer of potting soil. Add in your plants from largest to

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smallest and you’re good to go! Great plants for terrariums include: moss, cacti, succulents, air plants, baby’s tears and African violets.

TREES

There are many types of trees that are adaptive to growing in pots. Choose trees that will grow no taller than 20 feet so they can be moved if needed and will not outgrow a large pot.

If growing food is your fancy, there are plenty of fruit and nut trees that can grow in large containers. The wonderful thing about this is, if you live in a region that sees harsh winters, you can still enjoy growing citrus trees such as Meyer lemon and kumquat as you can move them indoors when needed. Dwarf varieties of apple trees and olive trees will also thrive in large pots.

Decorative trees, such as the emerald elf maple and dwarf conifers, can also be grown in containers. Palm trees also come in dwarf varieties so those of you living in tropical locales can enjoy these lovely trees on your patio.

Fruits and vegetables

SMALL ROOT VEGGIES: CARROTS, RADISHES, GREEN ONIONS, TURNIPS

Small root vegetables grow very well in pots. The lack of existing roots, rocks and other debris means the roots of these veggies can grow unhindered to be perfectly shaped. Those of us with rodent pests have to worry about root veggies getting stolen out from under our feet. This isn’t the case when they’re grown in pots. If you’re going to try your hand at growing root veggies in pots, be sure to select small varieties and be sure to thin them according to the instructions on the seed packet. Select a potting mix that includes perlite, as these crops love to grow in loose soil.

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POTATOES

Potatoes are wonderfully suited to growing in containers. The best part is, you don’t have to dig them all out come harvest time, simply tip over your pot and grab those sweet golden nuggets.

An important thing to remember when planting potatoes in containers is to use one that’s tall enough to hill up soil around the stalks as they grow, or use a container that can grow with your plants. Some people use stacked tires, stacked cinder blocks, cylinders made of chicken wire or rubbish bins for potatoes. The nice thing is, they will grow in practically anything as long as they have good drainage and nutrient-rich soil.

HERBS: PARSLEY, BASIL, CHIVES, ROSEMARY, OREGANO, THYME

Herbs are champions of the container garden. They are often seen growing on windowsills for a reason. They don’t mind containment, and even thrive on it. You can mix and match different herbs in the same pot or separate them for larger yields.

A word of warning: If you’re going to grow any type of mint in a pot, make sure it has its own container. Mint spreads like crazy and will quickly choke any plant you house it with. Woody perennial herbs like rosemary, sage and lavender perform well in their own large pot, so they can spread out and return to life every spring.

STRAWBERRIES

Strawberries will grow well in a number of small containers. We’ve grown them in strawberry planters, window boxes, gutters and vertical PVC pipes. They do well in these tight spaces because their roots don’t spread too much. The key to growing strawberries in containers is to make sure they are able to get the water and nutrients they need in the space they have. Inserting a PVC pipe drilled with small holes into the center of the pot can help with consistent watering. Another key to growing strawberries in small containers is to prune their runners whenever you see them. If you have just enough space for the plants already growing, you certainly don’t have space for their offspring.

These plants are just the beginning to container gardening, the proven winners in this category. There are many more crops that can grow in containers with a little dedication and the right circumstances. The important thing to remember is to start small with just a few. Once you master those, you’re on your way to growing everything under the sun!

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THE REAL DIRTON POTTING SOIL

When I first started gardening, I assumed that soil is soil, and you can use any type for any need. Oh, how wrong I was. I had no idea that you couldn’t succeed at growing plants in containers using soil from the garden. I knew that potting soil existed but had no idea of its importance until I failed at container gardening too many times. If you, too, have failed at growing plants in pots, your soil might just be to blame, and you need to know the real dirt on potting soil just as much as I did.

For starters, let’s go over the different types of soil you’ll find at the garden center, then we’ll jump right into the specifics of potting soil.

GARDEN SOIL

This is the soil in your garden, or at the store. It’s soil that’s specially formulated to be used in the garden for growing vegetables, herbs and other plants. It has the necessary nutrients for plants to thrive on.

TOPSOIL

This is the top layer of soil. It can be harvested and bagged up from any site and there’s no guarantee as to what’s inside. Topsoil is usually bagged up with no consideration as to nutrients, so it’s not recommended for use in the garden. Topsoil is generally used to mix with existing soil in the yard for landscaping.

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COMPOST

Compost is made from decomposing organic waste, such as leaves, yard waste, kitchen scraps or wood chips. It is used to improve the nutrient quality of your soil.

MANURE

Manure is animal feces or decomposed plants. When aged, manure is used like compost, to enrich the soil in your garden or containers to improve plant growth.

POTTING MIX

Potting mix is simply a medium in which to grow plants in containers. It’s special because it contains the perfect mix of ingredients to both hold and drain water while feeding plants. It can contain soil or be soil-less. When it is purchased commercially, it is sterilized to ensure it’s free of fungus and weed seeds.

THE COMPONENTS OF POTTING MIX:

• Peat: Decomposed sphagnum moss, used for it’s ability to retain water.

• Perlite: Highly porous volcanic glass, aids in aeration of the soil; this is the white Styrofoam-ball-looking things you’ll see in potting mix. It allows water to drain quickly from the pot.

• Vermiculite: Made from mica, acts a sponge to soak up water; will hold more water than perlite and is great for very thirsty plants, as it creates a potting mix that retains water.

• Composted tree bark: Provides organic matter for plant nutrients and aeration for the soil.

There are more than 15 types of potting soil at our local garden center, and all of them are different. Some contain various fertilizers to guarantee great crops, some include sand to keep plants from blowing over in the wind, some contain chemicals to keep away weeds, fungus, bacteria and insects, and others contain more filler than nutrients. They can be

basic and they can be complicated. When in doubt, go basic. You can always add things later on if you feel the need. I recommend Dr. Earth brand organic potting soils. They are chock-full of organic nutrients and we have yet to see a plant fail to thrive in their soil.

Why can’t I use garden soil in containers?

Garden soil tends to contain too much clay to be used in pots. Excess clay prevents rapid drainage and aeration of the soil, two essential

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characteristics of a good potting soil. Some people do find success with making potting mix with their garden soil by adding perlite and compost, but it won’t work on its own.

YOU MIGHT BE THINKING: “BUT IT DRAINS PERFECTLY FINE IN THE GROUND, WHY WOULDN’T IT IN POTS?”

In the ground, soil can drain horizontally as well as into the depths of the ground. There is really no limit to where the water can spread. In pots, with clay-based soil, the water moves very slowly through the pot and collects in the bottom while it slowly drains, leading to all sorts of troubles with rot, fungus and bacteria in your soil. The heavy soil also doesn’t allow roots to easily grow and spread, which will inhibit growth.

Why make your own potting soil?

There are two good reasons to make your own potting soil. The first is to save money. If you need large amounts of potting soil, making your own can save you money. High quality organic potting soil is very expensive. If you only need to fill a few small pots, by all means, invest in the good stuff. However, if you’re looking to fill a whole container garden, homemade might be the way to go.

The second good reason is to have control over the ingredients. Making your own potting soil mix means you can customize it to the specific needs of your plants. If you’re growing heavy feeders like tomatoes, you can add in a handful of slow-release fertilizer. If you’re growing cactus, you can be sure to add more perlite to allow for quick drainage. This element of control is also great for keeping your soil free of chemicals like pesticides and fungicides that you may not want there.

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The fact is, when you buy potting mix from the store, you never really know what’s in it. Not all potting mixes are created equal, some are incredible, and some are so full of filler you wonder how they can get away with claiming you can grow plants in it. Unfortunately the only real way to know if a mix is good is to try it, or take someone’s word for it. It’s a sad thing indeed when the end of the growing season comes and you realize the reason you have no tomatoes to eat is because you bought the wrong potting soil.

If you make your own potting soil, you get to take one more step toward taking complete control of your garden.

How to make your own potting soil

Mix up all the ingredients in a bucket, garbage can, or bin. Using a receptacle with a fitted lid is helpful to save soil for future projects. If you’re anything like us, you can never have enough potting soil! Be sure to wear a dust mask so you don’t inhale the particles.

The following is a very basic recipe for potting mix. It can be used for a variety of vegetables, herbs and decorative plants. You can also dress it up with your favorite fertilizer!

BASIC POTTING MIX:

• 1 part peat

• 1 part vermiculite or perlite

• 1 part compost

Tip: If your peat moss is dry when you get it, be sure to soak it for a few hours before mixing your soil.

Choosing or making the right type of soil for your gardening project is essential to its success. Good soil grows strong plants and when you’re growing plants in containers, it’s especially important to use the proper medium. Whether you choose to buy or make your soil, you’re now equipped with the knowledge to do it right the first time.

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No matter where you live, what your situation is, or how bad you are at gardening, I believe anyone can grow at least some of the plants they eat. Growing vegetables in a window box means apartment dwellers and yard-less folks no longer have to feel left out of the gardening game. Just think of how lovely it would be to have a window box full of herbs growing just outside your kitchen window.

Besides the fact that it will save you some cash at the market, you’ll want to grow your own window box vegetables just for the simple fact that fresh-from-the-garden tastes so much better than store-bought. Also, the smug satisfaction feels nice and you can impress your friends with your amazing talent.

Window boxes can be purchased at any garden center or home improvement store. Growing vegetables in a window box takes practically no time, very little skill and very few resources. There’s really no good excuse not to try!

WINDOW BOXES: THEY’RE NOT JUST FOR FLOWERS, GROW EDIBLES INSTEAD!

TYPES OF PLANTS THAT ARE PERFECT FOR WINDOW BOXES:

• Strawberries

• Radishes

• Leaf lettuce

• Spinach

• Green onions

• Aloe

• Herbs (parsley, sage, oregano, thyme, chives and basil)

How to grow window box vegetables:

Most potting soil should be soaked before use. If it isn’t soaked, the airiness of it will cause floating seeds and seedlings in your window boxes every time it’s watered. If the soil you’re using doesn’t say anything about moisture lock or long-lasting moisture, you’ll need to do this extra step. Simply pour the potting soil into a bucket and slowly add water to it, mixing until the potting soil is saturated and spongy.

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Spread the potting soil into the window box evenly, adding in a couple handfuls of compost if you have it. Tap the box on a table a few times to settle the soil. Fill the box almost to the top, leaving about a ¼ of an inch.

Read the sowing directions for your seeds. Spacing is very important in a window box, as there isn’t much of it. Each seed will need to be about an inch from the edges of the box to accommodate growth. If you plan on planting a few types of plants in one box, you’ll need to plan accordingly and measure out where each seed should go. Window boxes can be artfully designed and look quite beautiful outside your home, so if beauty is an important matter to you, now is the time to plan accordingly.

Once your seeds are planted, give them a good drink of water, then you get to sit around for a while, twiddling your thumbs and waiting for something to happen. During this time make sure the soil is moist but not soggy. Before you know it, little seedlings will be popping out of the soil and reaching for the sky. Thin out the seedlings according to your seed packet by snipping the weaklings with scissors.

Now all you need to do is monitor the growth and keep watering those growing babies. Fertilize them as needed according to seed packet instructions, usually after the first true leaves have matured.

TIPS FOR GROWING VEGETABLES IN A WINDOW BOX:

• Use high quality potting soil. The roots of these plants won’t be able to reach deeply into the soil to search for nutrients as they would if you grew them in your garden. Because of this, you’ll need to give them all the help they can get by starting them off with quality potting soil, and compost mixed in, if you have it.

• Fertilize those babies! In addition to giving them the best potting soil you can find, you’ll need to fertilize your window box veggies to boost their health and vigor.

• Hang your window box from a south-facing window, if you have one. If not, any window will do, the others just may not get as much light.

• Keep herbs pruned and use vegetables like lettuce and radishes as they mature. You can put new seeds in their place and keep your mini garden going all season long.

• Carefully examine plant and seed labels to ensure the variety you choose will be able to fit in your window box.

It’s truly that easy. Now aren’t you wondering why you haven’t done it before?

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