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Street Food Vending: Food Culture in India
By:
Prof. Anjali Kurane Shilpa Dahake
Department of Anthropology, University of Pune
(This is a draft and not to be cited without permission)
Growing Cities
Population Increase
Informal Food Sector
Street Food Vending
Formal economy
•Economic Growth •Social Development
Informal economy
Foundation to Leads to
Dealt with efficient management
Visible part
Street Food Vending
• “The informal food sector can be defined as including small producers, manufacturing enterprises, traders and service providers, involved in legal as well as unrecognized activities related to food” (Simon, 2007).
Informal Food Sector
Informal Sector
Ease of entry
Use of Indigenous resources
Family/household ownership
Small-scale operatives
Unregulated & competitive
markets
Traditional technology
• The street food is “ready to eat food and beverages prepared or sold by vendors or hawkers especially in streets and similar public places” as defined by the Food and Agriculture Organization.
Street Food
• “Street food vendors are person who offers food items for sale to the public without having a permanent built up structure but with a temporary static structure or mobile stall (or head load). Street vendors may be stationary by occupying space on pavements or other public/ private areas, or may be mobile in the sense that they move from place to place carrying their wares on push carts or in cycles or baskets on their heads or may sell their products in moving trains, bus, etc.”
Street Food Vendors
• This study tries to understand street food vending endeavor in the cultural tapestry of Indian cities.
– To understand the relation between the migration pattern of vendors and the items they are selling
– To understand uniqueness and diversity of food products they sell
– To understand the street food vending business
Aim & Objectives
Shivajinagar
Deccan Gymkhana Camp Area
N
Map of Pune
Locale of Study
Site
Deccan Shivaji Nagar Camp
• Sampling
– Population: Street food vendors carrying out business from a specific location regularly are the population under the study.
– Identification of busy nodes of the locations selected
– Street food vendors at these nodes were selected on the basis of purposive sampling technique.
– Each location 20 samples irrespective of their age and gender, total sample size: 60
• Interview schedule, observation and documentation through photographs in the study area.
Methodology
Observation & Findings
Street Food Vending in Pune
Pune Urban Center
since 18th century After 1950s growth of modern
manufacturing sector
Steady Growth in Population
Attracts Migrants
Spread of City
Distance between Home and Workplace Increased
Development of Street Food Vending
Gradual Increase
Increase in Range of Food Items Sold
Change in clientele range from Poor to Better -off
Street Food
Prepared Food (30%)
Idli-sambar, Sambar-wada, Sabudana
khicadi, Poha, Upama, Sheera,
Pani-puri, Sev-puri, Bhel puri, Bhel, Kulfi,
Peanuts
Prepared on street (36.7%)
Aloo bhaji, Wada pav, Anda burji, Dhabeli,
Dosa/uttapa, Sabudana wada, Loni dosa, Loni dhapata, Paratha, Pav-bhaji, Pulav, Sandwich,
Pizza, Boiled corn
Beverages (21.7%)
Lime soda, Kokam, Fruit
juice, Tea
Readymade (6.7%)
Chocolate sandwich, Gola,
Cigarette
Fruit salad (5%)
Street Food
• Item selection majorly depends on:
– Investment (30.7%)
– Demand (38.4%)
• Only 5% of vendors change the item that they sell according to season
• Assimilation: Rajasthan - bhel puri
• Adaptation: Karnataka - poha, wada pav
family business
minimum investment
more demand
easy to prepare
Will
Street Food
Item Selection
38.4%
30.7 %
Migration Pattern
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
Pu
ne
Wit
hin
Mah
aras
htr
a
Kar
nat
ake
Raj
asth
an
Utt
ar P
rad
esh
We
st B
en
gal
An
dhra
Pra
desh
Gu
jara
t
Mad
hya
Pra
de
sh
Profile of Vendors
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
Age Category Gender Education Religion Migrants
21-
30
31-
40
Ma
le
Prim
ary
Seco
nd
ary
Illit
erat
e
Hin
du
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
<5 yrs 6-10 yrs 11-15
yrs
16-20 21-25 >35
Independent
Dependent
• Majority of vendors are doing vending for less than 10 years
• “एक ठेले के पिछे ७-८ लोगो कक मेहनत
होती है”
• For 12% of vendors, vending was there family business and the 2nd generation of the family continued it.
Duration in Vending
Duration in Vending
Job Before Vending
• Two major reasons:
– Left their previous job because it was low paid
– Could not find job to earn livelihood
• “और कुछ करना नही आता”
• “िढाई मे मन नही लगा तो िैसे कमाने के ललये ये करने लगा”
• 15% of the vendors had previous experience in the field of food preparation and catering before they embarked on the business of their own
Reasons for Starting Food Vending
Reasons
45 %
34 %
15 %
Street Food Vendors
Independent (65%)
Family (41%)
Individual (48%)
Employer (11%)
Dependent (35%)
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
Less than20 years
21-30 31-40 41-50 51-60
Independent
Dependent
Nature of Street Food Vending
Nature of Vending & Age Category
Site
• 76.7% vendors obtained site because it was empty
• Type of vending stall: – Pushcart: 63.3%
– Table: 28.3%
– Cycle: 5%
– Shack: 3.3%
• Why these locations? – Shivaji nagar: Close to transport centers, government offices, school
– Deccan: close to colleges, market
– Camp: close to mall, market, court
Vending
< 5 hrs 5-10 hrs 10-15 hrs
• Period
– Majority have working hours more than 8-10 hrs.
• Customers
– Deccan: students, office going, people
who come for shopping
– Shivaji nagar: passengers, bus drivers and conductors, government officials, nearby shopkeepers
– Camp: housewives who come for shopping, students, nearby shopkeepers
Vending
Working Hours
65%
26.7%
• Food safety is maintained by –
– Buying good quality raw materials
– Preparing items freshly & serving hot
– Items made at home
– Refrigeration
• “अगर अच्छी quality का item नही होगा तो customer कैसे आयेगे”
Good quality raw materials
freshly prepared & served hot
home made
refrigeration
with gloves
nothing
Food Safety
Training
13.3%
53.3%
20%
• 83.3% of street food vendors have street food vending as an only source of livelihood
• For independent vendors – Rs 5000- Rs 20000
• For dependent vendors – Rs 5000 – Rs. 10000
• Daily sale - Rs 500 – Rs 3500
• Investment in stock depends on item - Rs 500 – Rs 1500
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14<
50
00
50
01
-80
00
8001
-11
000
1100
1-1
4000
1400
1-1
7000
1700
1-2
0000
Independent Dependent
0
5
10
15
20
25
<500
501-
100
0
1001
-15
00
1501
-20
00
2001
-25
00
2501
-30
00
3001
-35
00
Income
Income
Daily Sale
• No formal training
• Majorly learnt to cook from family members or owner
FamilyFriends taughtnoObserving other vendorsOther vendorsOwner taughtPast experiencePeople from the same village taught
Training
Training
23%
21%
Characteristics of Street Food Vending
Vendors
Migrants
Encroachers
Harsh working conditions
Exploited by officials
No awareness about food safety standards
No awareness about rules & regulations
Vending
Offers Autonomy
Small Enterprise
Reasonable income
Day-to-day activity
Serves wide clientele range
Dynamic role in urban economy
Natural Market
• Article 19(1)g of Constitution guarantees to all the citizens the right to practice any trade and profession, subjected to certain “reasonable restrictions” for the general interests of the public.
• National Policy on Urban Street Vendors, 2009
• The Street Vendors (Livelihood Protection and Regulation of Street Vending) Act, 2013
Rules & Regulations
• Permit from – Encroachment (Prevention) Department and Health Department
• 1992 – PMC stopped issuing license
• 2011 – FDA took over registration and license works - Food Safety and Standards Act
• 2013 – Pune Municipal Corporation (PMC) declared no-hawking zones on 45 roads and 153 junctions in the city.
• Under The Street Vendors (Livelihood Protection and Regulation of Street Vending) Act, 2013 - PMC has started survey in Deccan
Rules & Regulations
• Majority do not have license and very few have applied for license
• Vendors want current vending site to be allocated to them
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
<5 5-10 years 10-15 years 15-20 years 20-25 years 25-30 years >35
Yes No Owner has Applied
Yes Don't Know
License
Want License
82%
• The Street Vendors (Protection and Livelihood and Regulation of Street Vending) Bill
• Local Municipal laws
Yes No
Yes No
Awareness about Rules
93.3%
95%
Street Vendor Bill
Local Municipal Laws
Conclusion
• Study shows that 80% of the food vendors are migrants from all over India.
• These migrant food vendors they introduce their native food culture (assimilation), while some other adopt the local food culture (adaptation).
• These processes shows the uniqueness and diversity of food culture of the city.
• Street food vending is a small –scale informal business which offers autonomy to vendors.
• Appreciated by wide clientele range from urban poor to upper class
• Street food vending is adopted by vendors as a coping strategy when denied access to more formal employment opportunities in order to seek livelihood.
• Thus street food has become a part of popular culture of Pune city
Thank You