Stowaway

California Coasting

DREAM. EXPLORE. DISCOVER.

10 Essentials for your West-Coast Road Trip

Salt, Sand, and SurfTHE OUTBACK’S

NORTHERN COAST

Serve AbroadService Opportunities

Around the World

January 2010

Features

46 The Quest for St. Jane Search England for the real Jane Austen

33 Bringing Hope Serve the world while you see it

40

51

27 Skipping School Take learning out of the classroom

40 Beaches Down Under Discover New South Wales’s hidden treasures

Bring home more than knickknacks from your next trip

Explore Australia’s Northern Coast

51 Souvenir Smarts Find unique souvenirs on a budget

T.I.P.S.

55 From the Crow’s Nest Staff members relate their most memorable

travel experiences

53 Tales from the Trip Readers share their wackiest stories of

traveling abroad

Stories

58 Stowaway Essay Contest Winner Dream, Explore, Discover

14Learn photography

tips of the pros

30

Guide to a California road trip

22 On the Horizon Events and festivals around the world

30 Road Trip California Coasting

24 3 for Free ¡Hola, Madrid!

Itinerary

26 When Everything Else Closes Club Sober: Studio 600

Tricks

14 Five Tips for Sweet Pics A few tips for the amateur photographer

12 Boredom Avoidom Fun travel activities

17 Packing Predicaments How to tackle the packing challenge

20 Stow Away Your Stuff Don’t be a victim of theft

10 Stowaway Photo Contest Winners Check out the winning pics

7 Postcard from the Editor Destination: Destiny

8 Stowaway Stats Results of Stowaway’s latest survey

9 Clarify-cation Define your vacation

Perspectives

PHOTO COURTESY OF DANA JENSEN

24See ancient Egypt in Spain

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Stowawaye d i t o r i n c h i e f

m a n a g i n g e d i t o r

a s s i s t a n t m a n a g i n g e d i t o r

s e n i o r e d i t o r s

a s s o c i a t e e d i t o r s

c o p y e d i t o r

a r t d i r e c t o r

d e s i g n e r s

b u s i n e s s m a n a g e r

p r o d u c t i o n d i r e c t o r

s t a f f w r i t e r s , e d i t o r s , d e s i g n e r s , p r o d u c t i o n a r t i s t s

p u b l i s h e r

a d v i s o r

© 2009 Marvin K. Gardner4045 JFSB, Brigham Young UniversityProvo, Utah 84602 Printed by MagCloud

Stowaway was produced as a group project for English Language 430R, “Editing for Publication,” the capstone class of the editing minor at Brigham Young University. The views expressed in this publication are solely the views of the authors and in no way represent the views or opinions of Brigham Young University.

Mar vin K . Gardner

Jonathan J . Reddoch

Brinai Johnston

Sophie Bar thMatt Terr y

Heather B eutlerPeter V. Hi l ton

Heather Fisher

Mar y Coleman

Diane FergusonSte ve Kimbal l

Peter V. Hi l ton

Ariel W. Waite

Sophie Bar thHeather B eutlerMar y ColemanDiane FergusonHeather FisherPeter V. Hi l tonBr inai JohnstonSte ve Kimbal lJonathan J . ReddochMatt Terr yAriel W. Waite

Mar v in K . Gardner

Sean Johnson

J a n u a r y 2 0 1 0

Start your day off

fresh

Sunrise Bakery115 Rose LaneMonterey, CA

cupofmorningfresh.com

Ads on the following pages are fictitious and created by the staff of Stowaway: 6, 9, 16, 18, 19, 23, 25, 32, 50, 52, & 57.

7January 2010

I recently visited the World’s First Kentucky Fried Chicken (located in Salt Lake City of all places) and yes, it was everything I hoped it would be and more. It

made me think about my list of top places to see. People have a tendency to want to list things, like the twenty places to visit before you die or the top fifteen cheeses to eat in Wisconsin or the three and a half best ways to spend an afternoon in Mexico. That’s all well and good, but when it comes down to it, Stowaway can’t prescribe what your top anything should be.

Everyone has that one place they just have to visit before they die. For some, it’s the Great Wall of China. For others, it’s the Eiffel Tower. For me, at the top of my list of things to see is the World’s First Wendy’s restaurant in Columbus, Ohio. I don’t have an obsession with fast food chains, but I like quirky things. Most travelers wouldn’t care to visit the world’s tallest thermometer in Baker, California, or to drive out to the middle

of nowhere to find the exact spot where the trans­continental railroad was completed. But I would. Why would I bother to visit the world’s first Wendy’s? The same reason you might travel halfway around the world to see a huge pile of rocks in Rome or to see a great big hole in Ari­zona. Because it’s there, of course! Because it is on my list. That’s what is so fantastic about traveling: you get to write your own list.

We created Stowaway with this in mind: your dream, your exploration, your discovery. We want to be a part of that adventure. “The Quest for St. Jane: Searching for the Real Jane Austen” (page 26) traces the dreams of one of Britain’s most famous authors. “California Coasting” (page 30) takes you on a scenic road trip up California’s amazing coastline. “Beaches Down Under” (page 40) will transport you to some of Australia’s beautiful, lesser­known (and less­visited) beaches. Consider adding them all to your list.

I lived in beautiful central Ohio for two years and missed out on visiting my top destination because I kept putting it off. I’ve made it my goal, my destiny, to make it to the world’s first Wendy’s one day.

Where can Stowaway take you? What is your destiny?

Jonathan J. ReddochStowaway Managing Editor

Colonel Sanders, Pete Harman (first KFC franchise owner), and me enjoying the moment.

Destination: Destiny

Postcard from the editor

8 zines.byu.edu/stowaway

Stowaway Stats

Number Crunchu Average number of times college

students have left the United States: 3u Average number of pairs of socks

taken on vacation: 5u Average number of pairs of socks

that came home: 4.5

Stowaway recently conducted a survey of young adults. Here are the results:

Top Item I Wish I Had Left At Home

What is the craziest thing that has ever happened to you while traveling?“My dad being offered a woman in Tijuana.” -Tasha T.

“In China, having people sneak their children into the shot when my friends and I took pictures together.” -Wendy L.

“I was chased by an extremely large European man because he thought I was being offensive toward him.” -David K.

“When I told a waiter in Rome that I was allergic to rosemary, he thought I said I was allergic to saying my rosary to Mary, and he was afraid for my soul.” -Rachel G.

“A guy sitting by me on the plane asked why I was reading a romance novel when, ‘I could be partaking of a romance now’ with him. He then asked me to hold his hand. I said no. He went on to ask if I would hold his pinky.” -Somers N.

Number One Place I Want To Go Most Overrated Tourist Traps

PersPectives

Italy British Isles Europe New Zealand

Australia Israel

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8

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2

0Las VegasDisneyland/

DisneyworldParis New York

CityHawaii Mexico

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The Australian Coast

w w w . A u s t r a l i a . c o m

More Than Just a Beach

By Jonathan Reddoch

With the acceptance of staycation (n. a vacation spent at home or nearby) into the 2009 edition of Merriam-Webster’s dictionary, we were curious what other -cation words might be traveling about. We came up with definitions for the following pre-Websterized cations.

Daycation: (n.) A one­day vacation We hit the surf for a daycation.

Fauxcation: (n.) A vacation from work that is not for pleasure I need a fauxcation so I can clean this house!

Hatecation: (n.) A vacation from your hatredJim, why don’t you take an extended hate cation?

Mancation: (n.) Male­only bonding vacationMe and the guys took a Vegas mancation.

Naycation: (n.) A non­vacationWe don’t have any money, so we have to take a nay cation this year.

Solocation: (n.) A solo vacationI’m taking a solocation to Hawaii to get away from my meddling parents.

Staycation: (n.) a vacation spent at home or somewhere nearby For our staycation, we’re headed to the local bed and breakfast.

Clarify“Cation”

PersPectives

Defining your vacation

10 zines.byu.edu/stowaway

Photo Contest

Stowaway

Tavurvur and a DinghyKokopo, East New Britain, Papua New GuineaSenSe of Place

“July 2008 I had the chance to do something I have always dreamed of: go away to some faraway place. This was a research trip I got to go on to Papua New Guinea. To me, this shot symbolizes a way of life that I will never have. Mt. Tavurvur is an active volcano that the natives have had as a common place thing. This is the mountain that erupted and destroyed the nearby city very recently. Also the man in the dinghy shows that life is simpler here and things that work have no need to change.”

Dana JensenVancouver, WAAge: 26

Photo contest

After 150 entries and much deliberation, the staff of Stowaway chose a winner for each of the contest’s categories: Sense of Place, Landscape, and Architecture.

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Aimee GarrettFallbrook, CA

Age: 21

“I love this photo because of the lighting the sunset creates. This picture, to me, describes the essence of my trip to Italy. It was just a beautiful, magnificent place. Plus, it reminds me of my wonder-ful summer of traveling in Europe.”

“This building was designed by Friedensreich Hundertwasser. It is an apartment building. He accepted no payment on the building but declared that it was worth it to ‘prevent something ugly from going up in its place.’ He had a very unique style and made a lot of the floors and walls in this building uneven.”

Vienna, Switzerland

Hundertwasserhaus

Venice, Italy

Chelsea PetersonCharleston, ILAge: 21

Venice Sunsetarchitecture

landScaPe

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Puzzle BookAmazing “Aha!” Puzzles; by Lloyd King; unlimited players; MSRP $16.50

This book contains three hundred new mind­bending enigmas to get you thinking outside of the box. Sometimes you’ll be stumped; other times you’ll immediately know the answer. No matter what, all of the puzzles are sure to have you saying “Aha!”

Boredom

Card GameAirborne in My Pocket; by Emmanuel Aquin; 1–4 players; 15 minutes; free download

This card game puts you in control of a D­Day paratrooper. Your mission: infiltrate the weapons bunker and destroy the heavy artil­lery. You might come across the ammo dump or stumble into a panzer. Some locations award you with helpful items; others force you into combat. Once you find the bunker’s entrance, locate the guns, activate the explosives, and then get out before it goes off! This is a Print ‘n’ Play game, which means it’s available for free download. Grab it at j.mp/airbornepocket.

Puzzle GameRush Hour; by Nob Yoshigahara; 1–4 players; 2–15 minutes per puz­zle; MSRP $18

This classic puzzle game puts you in the driver’s seat of a small car that must find a way out of bad traffic. Ranging in complexity from begin­ner to expert, this puzzle offers challenges for gamers of all ages. It’s an entertaining solo experience, but it’s even more fun to play with a friend. And best of all, once you complete all of the puzzles contained in the box, there are three expansions that each contain a new car and forty additional puzzles to solve. The colors and components appeal to children, but don’t be fooled—Rush Hour is surprisingly challenging for adults too.

This issue’s Theme: Games You Can Play Alone or with FriendsLayovers and delays are likely to happen on just about any trip. Tote one of these travel-friendly games or activities in your carry-on to keep boredom at bay while you wait. These selections are based on price, portability, and tabletop space.

zines.byu.edu/stowaway

by steve Kimball

tricks

13January 2010

Board GameRed November; by Bruno Faidutti & Jef Contier; 1–8 players; 60 minutes; MSRP $17

What could be more fun than manning a crew of Russian gnomes while trying to keep your malfunctioning submarine intact? Such is the premise of Red November. As new disasters appear each turn, you and your friends will be scrambling around the sub, attempting to put out fires, pump out water, shut down the nuclear missile, and fight off the legendary kraken before he crushes your sub to bits.

Dice GameRoll Through the Ages: The Bronze Age; by Matt Leacock; 1–4 players; 15–30 minutes; MSRP $21

Craft an empire in thirty minutes or less in Roll Through the Ages, a civilization dice game. Build cities, erect monuments, and research technologies to advance your civilization. Of course, you’ll have hungry mouths to feed and disasters to weather along the way, so carefully plan which technologies to develop.

Role-Playing Game BookTunnels & Trolls: Troll Haven Board Game Book; by James L. Shipman II; 1­4 players; MSRP $19

This 9x12 book allows you to play either a solo adventure or a group quest. The solitaire game is reminiscent of the mid­80s game books like Choose Your Own Adventure and Time Machine. You can replay the adventure and get a completely different story every time. If you like fantasy novels and want to try a more interactive experience, take Tunnels & Trolls on your next trip.

Avoidom

hunting for the best deals

Here are a few specialty web stores that sell gaming products at a discounted price:

www.boardgamerevolution.com www.funagaingames.com www.thoughthammer.com

14 zines.byu.edu/stowaway

Try new anglesOne of the easiest ways to give your photographs character and attitude is with new angles. Don’t be afraid to get on the ground to get a different angle of a statue. Take the shot from the side rather than from the front. Tilt the camera slightly. Anything goes, so don’t be afraid to experiment.

Tips f o r

Sometimes photographs are the only things you bring back from a trip. You want to capture the essence of the location in one

frame, but you aren’t a professional photographer. That’s okay; you don’t need to be. That delete button on your camera is an amateur photo grapher’s best friend. But instead of wasting time taking lots of pictures only to delete half of them, follow these few simple tips to take the perfect shot with the first release of the shutter.

Follow the Rule of Thirds

One of the most important aspects of photography is composition. Composition rules take a regular, boring photograph and make it interesting. Instead of having your subject smack dab in the middle of your frame, try this: place your subject about a third from the side of the frame. This is where the eye is naturally drawn and where the subject will be most appealing.

S w e e t Pics5B y m a r y co l e m a n

PHOTO COURTESY OF KELSIE MONSEN

PHOTO COURTESY OF TYLER WEAVER

tricks

15January 2010

Don’t be afraid to turn off the flashNormally your camera will automatically turn on the flash when it senses the need to brighten up the scene. In many places, however, flash photography is not allowed. While this restriction may initially be disheartening, it might actually work in your favor. Natural lighting is the best match for photography. The flash tends to wash out a subject in a dark area. Try a snapshot or two without the flash. You may be pleasantly surprised by the results.

Fill the frame with your subjectMake your subject the main focus of the photo. When shooting the Eiffel Tower, don’t shoot the tow­er as a small portion of your photo. Fill your frame with the main subject, avoiding all distracting items that may be surrounding it. You traveled to see this place, so photograph what you came to see.

Take lighting into considerationYour itinerary may be tight, and you may not have time to wait for the perfect moment. But when pos­sible, waiting for the right lighting can bring warm, soft colors that really illuminate your subject. The optimal times of day for shooting are the hour or two after sunrise or before sunset. These times provide the soft light that is perfect for taking pictures. The sun’s rising or setting colors can reflect off of your subject and provide more interesting shades—unlike the midday sun, which tends to wash out subjects. Overcast skies can provide the same muted effect.

PHOTO COURTESY OF KELSIE MONSEN

PHOTO COURTESY OF KENDRIK HAMBLIN

PHOTO COURTESY OF KYLE CHRISTENSEN

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r e k i n d l e t h e f l a m e

XXI o lympic winter games vancouver , br i t ish co lumbia

12–28 february 2010

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Packing

I was so careful packing. I felt justi­fied in all that I’d chosen to take for

my study abroad in London. But as my dad hefted my suitcase and duffel bag into the back of the car, my wor­ries began. When I dragged my things through the baggage check line at the airport, those worries intensified. I had fourteen carefree hours as I flew across the country and then across the Atlantic, but when I claimed my things at the end of the flight, the real­ity of my packing inexperience settled in. I was in physical pain as I hauled my things (most of which now seemed unnecessary) to the place that I would be living for the next two months.

Two months: that is a long time, right? It made sense that I would need the contents of my closet, my dresser, and my bathroom—or at least I thought. But by the end of those two months, when I was lugging my original bags and a brand new one through the streets and on the tube to the airport, I felt differently about it. I could have managed with a lot less.

The mistake of forgetting something that is (or at least seems) vitally im­portant is just as awful. You can spend a pretty penny trying to replace small items that you already had at home.

So how can you avoid these packing predicaments? Here are some simple ideas—first for girls and then for guys.

Girls, though the stereotype that we pack heavily is sometimes inflated and unfair, it isn’t always too far from the

truth. First and foremost, ask your­self this question: do I really need this within the next [insert length of your trip]? Most of the time, you can say no. One outfit per day is plenty, and you’ll have lots of options if you make those outfits interchangeable. For example, even though the cream coat is ador­able and you would love to wear it in Times Square, the black one matches the majority of the clothes you are tak­ing. Choose the black and leave the cream behind. Or maybe those gray slacks look great, but taking them would require also taking the right

top, shoes, jewelry, and bag—so hold off on wear­ing them until you get back home.

If you’re stressed about having something to wear in the evening or to more formal events, take one or two dresses or blouses that you can dress up or dress down. Every girl loves her accessories, but pick one practical pair of shoes and one cute pair (it’s all right—we all know that there’s a difference), a few pieces of jewelry, and call it good. You’ll be amazed at how

many of your hair products you can live without; cut back on your load by taking travel­size containers, sharing a blow­dryer, and going with the easiest hairstyle you can manage.

Guys, the stereotypes may be unjust toward you as well. But please do us all a favor and do not pack the night before. Give yourself a few days to be sure you have everything you will need and nothing more. Think of what you will be doing on your trip and plan your packing; don’t just throw whatever is on top when you open your dresser drawer

By Brinai Johnston

January 2010

Packing right is sometime the hardest part of travel. The more luggage you bring, the higher risk you have of losing bags.

tricks

Predicaments

18 stowaway.com

F O R G E T T H E L A S T T I M E YO U S AW YO U R S U I T C A S E ?

LUGGAGE EMPORIUM

F O R A L L YO U R T R AV E L I N G N E E D S

luggage.emporium.com

tricks

Careful planning will decrease your amount of stress when it comes to baggage fees and getting to the gate on time.

into your suitcase. After all, you can’t wear a T­shirt and swim trunks to a gala, and you don’t need a suit and tie for the Mets game. Also, contrary to popular belief, food is not the most important item to take with you when you leave home. It is possible to over­stock on food, especially when you are going on just a short trip. And no one will think less of you if you have enough socks for the time you are there or a few changes of clothes. You will be grateful and so will everyone traveling with you.

What else? Socks can go inside shoes. Clothes that are rolled often take up less space and resist wrinkling. Check the weather. Remember that some

things can be purchased when you ar­rive. Take a few minutes to really think about where you are going and what you’ll be doing when you get there. Pack what you need, include a few lightweight extras, and then decide to be done.

Most importantly, remember this: packing is a necessary part of your adventure, but it shouldn’t determine the feel of your trip. Take the time to plan ahead and pack well so that you can stop worrying about it once you’ve set your luggage in the car or checked it at the airport. You don’t want to worry about or be weighed down by your things when you have so much else to see and do.

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w h e re yo u ’ve a l w ays

d re a m e d o f go i n g

z e p hy rA I R L I N E S

w h e re yo u ’ve a l w ays

d re a m e d o f go i n g

z e p hy rA I R L I N E SZ

zephyrair.com

l e t t h e w i n d t a k e yo u

w h e re yo u ’ve o n l y

d re a m e d o f go i n g

By matt terry

“Honestly, I didn’t pay that close of attention [to safety

tips],” Tricia Bunderson confessed, “because I—like everyone else—thought, ‘this would never happen to me.’”

But as Tricia learned, serious theft can happen to any traveler. And when it does, your greatest wish is that you had known beforehand how to prevent it.

Others can take advantage of you even when you think you’re completely safe, as Tricia learned last summer on a study abroad trip to Ecuador. While with her fellow students aboard a private tour bus, she fell victim to a clever scheme. The students had been told to keep their important personal belongings and their backpacks with them, which they did when boarding the bus.

However, just after they had all sat down, a man boarded and started asking them if he could put their backpacks in the overhead bins. He acted just like an employee, and

soon most of the backpacks were sitting in bins above their owners. Just then, a group of people outside the bus started tapping on the windows, wanting to talk to the North Americans. In those crucial seconds when everyone else was

busy looking out the windows, the man in the bus grabbed a backpack—Tricia’s—and left the bus without being noticed. Immediately, he and those people outside distracting everyone jumped in a getaway car and were gone.

Tricia and her fellow students boarding a bus in Eduador. Little did she know, but her backpack, containing most of her personal belongings, would soon be gone.

Stow Away Your Stuff

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Don’t wear expensive clothing brands. Before you go, research what the locals wear and try to dress more like them and less like a foreigner. White sneakers, flip­flops, shorts, fanny packs, and baseball caps are also dead giveaways that you’re a tourist.

Do be quiet. Americans are perceived to be louder and showier than people of other countries. Observe how the locals act and adjust your behavior to match.

Don’t pull out your map or your translation dictionary on the street. If you need to look at your map, step off the street and away from the crowd. Have your map folded over to the necessary area so you can look at it discreetly.

Do try to speak the language. Not everyone will speak English, and the locals will appreciate your attempt to use the language. Learn some basic words and phrases and use them.

Source: wonderhowto.com

How to Blend In

tricks

zines.byu.edu/stowaway

PHOTO COURTESY OF JEROME FERRIN AND BYU COLLEGE OF NURSING

Tricia never saw her backpack again, or what was inside it: her laptop, iPod, passport, wallet, and camera. She later found out that the same thing had happened to someone the week before. Since no alerts had been put out, she figured it was a professional scheme and that someone from the transportation sector must have been in on it.

In general, North Americans are less used to these kinds of crimes happening in the United States, so they may act careless while traveling abroad. This can be dangerous because of the stereotype in many places that all US citizens are rich, which often makes them targets while abroad.

As a result of this experience, though, Tricia did learn some important lessons to minimize the consequences of theft.

stolen passport

If you lose your passport, it’s consid­ered an emergency, and you should

call the embassy emergency hotline immediately, even if it’s a holiday. Go in as soon as you can because it usually takes a couple days to get a new passport. Tricia was told she needed to bring in a new passport photo and she had to pay $100 for her new passport.

copies and bacKups

Make sure you have copies or backups of important things such as your passport (at the very least, know the number), your driver’s license, important computer files, and helpful phone numbers.

protect your identity

Depending on what’s stolen, you may also need to change passwords, get new bank account numbers, cancel credit cards, or purchase fraud alert for your Social Security number or credit cards.

constant vigilance

It’s easier to be paranoid and do all you can to prevent theft than to be stuck coping with its consequences. As Tricia puts it, “Always be vigilant. The time that you let your guard down is the time that something bad will happen.”

January 2010 21

“The time that you let your guard down is the time that something bad will happen.”

—Tricia Bunderson

Avoiding the Cost of Theft

• Don’t carry large amounts of money with you. If you need to, though, a money belt is one of the safest ways to do so.

• It may actually be a good idea to carry some cash in your pockets. It can be handy where cards or checks aren’t accepted. And it also can be useful if you do get robbed—having some cash may keep you from getting beaten up for not having money.

• Making eye contact with people can deter potential pickpockets from targeting you because they know that you have noticed them and could identify them later.

• Make sure you have a list of phone numbers easily available. If your phone gets stolen, you don’t want to be stuck without the phone numbers of your family, friends, or other important contacts.

• Locals know best. If you know some locals, ask them about safety in the areas you plan to visit and about any dangerous places to avoid as well.

• Don’t do anything that will draw attention to yourself as a foreigner. (See “How to Blend In” for tips) Just follow the crowd and try to blend in as best as you can.

On the HorizonJanuary

Ati-Atihan FestivalKalibo, Panay, Philippines

Camel Wrestling ChampionshipSelcuk, Turkey

Australia DayAnywhere in Australia

Monte-Carlo Historic RallyJanuary 28–February 3

February

Mazatlán CarnivalMexico

Flour FestivalViano do Bolo, Spain

Shrove Tuesday: Pancake DayBritish Isles

March

Paripally GajamelaParipally, India

Smithsonian Kite Festival Washington Monument, D.C.

National Cherry Blossom FestivalWashington, D.C.

April

Art on CowsLuxembourg April–September

Thrissur PooramThrissur, Kerala, India

Vappu CarnivalHelsinki, Finland

MayAsakusa Sanja MatsuriTokyo, Japan

Cheung Chau Bun FestivalCheung Chau Island, Hong Kong

World Championship Kinetic Sculpture RaceFerndale, CA

JuneNY Philharmonic and Metro-politan Opera in Central ParkJune–July

Sardine Heaven - The Feast of St. AnthonyPortugal

Stonehenge: Summer SolsticeStonehenge, Wiltshire, UK

Fiesta de San Juan BautistaBarlovento, Venezuela

Midsummer FestivalHolo, Sweden

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Harbin’s Snow and Ice FestivalJanuary 5–mid-February

One of the world’s largest ice archi­tecture parks can be found in Harbin, China. The Snow and Ice Festival is held throughout January and contains some amazing spectacles—not the least of which are the huge ice build­ings and palaces that are highlighted with colored lights. Some of these buildings have built­in ice slides or occasionally a maze to enjoy. Activites vary, and they also sell candied fruits. Be sure to bundle up; temperatures can drop to ­40 ˚F.

World Championship Cockroach RacingJanuary 26

On your mark. Get set. Crawl! The World Championship of Cockroach Racing in Brisbane, Australia is the perfect opportunity to show off you bug racing abilities. Train your own roach or buy one from the hotel. Of course there is a lot more to do than recreational roach racing, including the usual activities: food, music, and games. Just don’t take the sport too seriously and you will have a great time at this unusual festival.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF JOHN PANNELL

Cows around Luxembourg City display a variety of art during this unique festival.

itinerary

January 2010

What do you want to see out your hotel window?Let us help you decide.

Berrett Travel Co. • Berretttravel.com

Festival of ColorsMarch 1

Whether you’re in India, South Asia, the United States, or somewhere else with Hindu populations, the Festival of Colors should be on your must­do list. The festival welcomes everyone to join in as people throw colored powder at each other and light a giant bonfire in remembrance of Hindu religious traditions. Make sure to wear old clothes because you’ll leave the festival covered from head to foot in different colors but with a smile on your face.

Central Park SummerstageJune–August

Spend some time relaxing and enjoy­ing the beautiful summer evenings on the Great Lawn in Central Park, where you can regularly find free out­door performances by the New York Philharmonic and the Metropolitan Opera. Pick a spot of lawn either clos­er or further away from the stage. You don’t want to miss out on this great opportunity. Dates and times can be found online.

Shakespeare’s BirthdayApril 23

Celebrations take place up till and the weekend after April 23 for William Shakespeare’s birthday (which is also the date that he died). Activities range from sonnet walks to a large birthday party to an exhibition. Some of the events have a fee, but most are free, so be sure to take a look around the Globe during this important event.

Songkran FestivalApril 13–15

The Songkran festival (or water fes­tival) celebrates the traditional Thai New Year’s Eve. It’s also the day set aside for annual public cleaning (in more ways than one). Besides throw­ing out old unneeded items, which may bring bad luck, the people of Thailand engage in a giant water war, conveniently during one of the hot­test seasons. Bring a bucket, find a hose, or pump your Super Soaker.

The Festival of Colors is a great opportunity to throw colored powder, something your mother never would have allowed.

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Madrid!¡Hola,By Sophie Barth

3 for Fr 33

itinerary

Drawing more natives than tourists, this park gives a feel of what it’s like to live in

Madrid. Locals jog, sunbathe, play soccer, and walk their baby carriages through the scenic park. The point farthest west in the park also provides breathtaking views of Spain’s fabled sunsets. In fact, from the park at sunset, the view of El Palacio Real (the Royal Palace) and its neighbor, La Catedral de la Almudena, may even be better than what you see if you pay to go inside.

1El Parque de la Montaña (Mountain Park)

2What could be better than a little cultural crossover? Check out the 2,200­year­old Egyptian temple, nestled comfortably in one of Madrid’s most beautiful parks. Originally built in the second century BC, the ancient temple was erected in the first cataract of the Nile in honor of the Egyptian god Amun. It was then gifted to Spain in the 1960s. An overlooked gem, the Temple of Debod features beautiful Egyptian hieroglyphics and history, right in the middle of Spain.

The Temple of Debod

3Admission is free to this world­class museum on Sunday nights. Featuring the art of Spain’s fin­est, like Diego Velázquez, Francisco Goya, and El Greco, Museo del Prado holds an astounding 1,300+ paintings. Be sure to get in line at least 45 minutes before it opens on Sunday evening because the museum gets crowded fast.

Museo del Prado (Prado Museum)

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Experience the World in a Weekend

TimetoTravel.comNew York City vacation packages are available. Go online now for our promotional codes.

26 zines.byu.edu/stowaway

club sober

Studio 60026 East 600 South

Salt Lake City, UT 84111 (801)355-9860

www.mystudio600.com

so where am i again?

You’re in Salt Lake City, Utah, home of the 2002 Winter Olympics and odd stories about seagulls. You’re within fifty miles of two powerhouse college football teams and within fifteen minutes of the Utah Jazz. Whether you came to ski or to explore the city, the day is getting late and you want something unique to do in Salt Lake City when everything else closes.

when everything else closes

In downtown Salt Lake, you can find pubs and clubs aplenty. Restaurants, malls, movie theaters, and more dot the streets. But these attractions can be found in any big city. So what’s the nightlife hotspot in Salt Lake? Stu­dio 600.

Studio 600 is Salt Lake’s non­alcoholic, non­smoking dance club. Lacking alcohol revenue, Studio 600’s in­terior suffers a little from the one­color cement block syndrome, but once the lights go out and the music comes up, the interior doesn’t matter nearly so much as the people.

Most people who turn up to this club come in small groups of two or four, and even those who show up in groups of ten and twenty tend to disperse. Everyone is generally willing to dance with everyone else, whether you’re on the salsa, country, or Top 40 floor. Even while in the entrance line (we picked a busy Friday night), we got to know new people and started setting up the after­party scene. And once we got inside, the people were beautiful, the atmosphere was electric, and the music was spot on.

When the club closed a little after 1:30 am, we joined the crowd and found our car—parked safely on the street—and headed out. On our way, we saw the usual

By Peter v. hilton

studio 600

itinerary

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SHANNA MAE HARDY

scenes following a successful night at a club: singles coupling up, couples breaking up, couples making up, and groups re­forming and packing back into their cars, much as we did ours.

To maximize your own Studio 600 experience, first check their website. Music and age groups vary from night to night; while the club is open on Tuesday and Thursday through Saturday, sometimes it’s only for mid­singles (over 25) or for high schoolers (15–18). Otherwise, it’s 18 and up. Also be sure to skim the code of conduct. Don’t feel pressured to conform—it’s only lightly enforced—but do come prepared. The rules made Studio 600 a very unique twist on the nightlife experience, and we counted our night something worth repeating in Salt Lake City when everything else closes.

27

Skipping School

never let my schooling interfere with my education,” Mark Twain sagely quipped. Though time away from the class­room may push back graduation, many college students

are putting their regular schooling on hold to expand their education through international study programs. Each semes­ter, these globetrotting students ship off to England or Egypt, Mozambique or the Maldives, to broaden their horizons.

Many of these students come from Brigham Young Univer­sity, a private school situated in Utah’s Wasatch mountain range with a knack for second languages. More than a third of the university’s thirty thousand students speak a second language, often learned during full­time missionary service in foreign countries for The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter­day Saints, BYU’s sponsoring institution. Many Latter­day Saints, or Mormons, spend eighteen months to two years as voluntary representatives, honing new language skills in the process and becoming familiar with different cultures.

That volunteer service often leads to an affinity for interna­tional experience. Kristina Sycamore, a BYU senior preparing to enter medical school in fall 2010, said of her mission expe­rience in Rome, Italy, “I liked the opportunity to really see the culture and lifestyle of other people that you wouldn’t other­wise get to experience. It really increased my love for people and their cultures and my ability to understand them better.”

On top of her mission experience, Kristina has traveled to Jor­dan and Naples on archaeological digs for her major. “It was a really good experience to have as I applied to medical school.”

BYU’s high student demand for international experience has fu­eled one of the top twenty largest international study centers in the nation, the David M. Kennedy Center for International Stud­ies. In the 2008–2009 school year, BYU had 1,418 students par­ticipate in more than 150 international study programs through the Kennedy Center. These programs include study abroad, internships, field studies, and direct enrollment. The variety of programs allows students to find the right fit for their education.

January 2010

International Study ProgramsBy soPhie Barth

I

By a really Good author

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“Unlike a lot of schools, BYU doesn’t have anything about be­ing a global citizen in our mission statement,” said Dr. Timothy Lynn Elliott, director of international study programs at BYU. “It’s just sort of implied. Anyone in the administration from the president on down just assumes that we’re going to have an in­ternational interest.”

In fact, one of the university’s mottos is “The world is our campus.” The Kennedy Center helps make that motto a reality for the students.

Developing faculty­led study abroad programs, arranging internships, sponsoring field study research projects, and fa­cilitating direct enrollment with other universities is a costly and time­consuming endeavor. But the university feels the trade­offs are worth it.

“Any student who goes abroad is going to have a life­chang­ing experience because they’re going to be in a new situation. . . . They’ll have to learn new skills in how to get along with people [and] be part of a different culture,” said Dr. Elliott. “It can also be very valuable and very important in establishing your credentials so you can get an international career.”

Many participants in international programs develop a high level of creativity, said Dr. Elliott, citing a recent study on international program students. The adaptability they learn

as they adjust to a different culture and lifestyle carries over into real­world skills.

Spanning the back wall of Dr. Elliott’s office is a large map of the world with more than a hundred stickers representing all the places that BYU students are currently studying—every­where from Austria to Australia, China to Ghana. Students can find the program that best fits their needs in an area of

the world that interests them. According to Dr. Elliott, one stu­dent can do a field study on bugs in Africa while others study mu­sic in Europe. Some have stud­ied medical issues like herbal healing or spiritual healing. They can research pretty much anything tied to their major.

Take, for example, Annie Sam­houri from Parker, Colorado.

Annie chose to study in Jordan not only because she stud­ies political science, but also because she’s of Jordanian de­scent. Add a desire to learn Arabic, and an internship with orphanages in Jordan perfectly fit her bill. She taught basic computer skills, ballet, cooking, and English to the kids, as well as drafted proposals to the government to request added funding.

“Before, I was shy to speak [Arabic] outside the classroom,” said Annie. “But all of a sudden I was forced to use it. It helped me see if I really wanted to pursue a career in the Middle East with international relations.”

“Any student who goes abroad is going to have a life-changing experience because they’re going to be in a new situation.”

—Dr. Timothy Elliott

While traveling abroad, students see how Western culture has been an influence around the world. Here young Chinese girls train in ballet.

Her internship helped her decide, and now she hopes to one day provide her own children with a similar experience.

Lindsey Villabolos from Orlando, Florida, had her heart set on the Paris study abroad long before she ever applied to the program. “I picked BYU just because it had this study abroad pro­gram,” she said.

About her experience, Lindsey said it helped her grow because she understood cultural bar­riers and was better able to avoid taking or giving offense. Now Lindsey is headed back to Paris after her graduation while her husband studies music in one of the city’s conserva­tories, and she’s looking forward to it. “I love the food, the shopping, and the pictures. I love explor­ing little shops, bakeries, and different touristy things.”

Some drawbacks to international study programs involve cost. Students pay not only full tuition but also travel costs. One BYU study abroad program—the Near Eastern Stud­ies program in Jerusalem (not run through the Kennedy Center)—can cost up to $10,000 for four months. The pro­gram includes field trips to Jordan, Egypt, the Dead Sea, Mount Sinai, and Galilee, as well as remarkably beautiful

29January 2010

housing on Mount Scopus overlooking the Old City and a best­of­the­best staff of Israelis and Palestinians whose first priority is the safety of the students. This whole pack­age will cost a BYU Jerusalem Center student $7,485 more than regular tuition in Provo, Utah. (Granted, these figures

don’t account for the cost of living stateside).

The Jerusalem program is the extreme at BYU, be­ing one of the most costly programs offered. Others can be less expensive, and financial aid is a fortunate reality for many who wish to pursue their education else­where for a semester. From grants for research projects to need­based financial aid, help is readily available to those willing to chase it down.

“In all the years that I’ve done this,” said Dr. Elliott, “the

number of students that have come back to me and said that ‘this was a waste of my time and my money’ is miniscule.”

Price and time—both are trade­offs that international study program participants are willing to make because the benefits of experiences abroad can last a lifetime. Mr. Twain would probably agree with Dr. Elliott. International study programs provide a safeguard against letting school­ing get in the way of education.

Number of students currently involved in a Kennedy Center programs: 1,439Number of international study programs by the Kennedy Center: 166Number of countries with a Kennedy Center program: 54

Continentnumber of Countries with Programs

total number of students

Europe 21 713

Asia 12 374

South America 4 82

Africa 4 68

North and Central America

3 155

Oceania 3 47

Kennedy Center Program Statistics by Continent

Student and teacher study by candlelight in India.

Hit the road to explore what California’s coast has to offer from San Diego to San Francisco.

SAN DIEGOHome to the famous San Diego Zoo and Sea World, San Diego also offers cultural and scenic attractions at lower prices. A visit to Balboa Park—the na­tion’s largest urban cultural park—is free, and the area is known for its vast museums, acclaimed performing arts, and beautiful gardens. Don’t pass up a drive across the 11,000­foot­long bridge to the charming Coronado Island. And while you’re there, grab an ice cream cone at the Moo Time Creamery.

Los Angeles & HollywoodAs the second­largest city in the U.S., Los Angeles is not lacking in excite­ment. Snap your picture in front of the Hollywood sign, take a guided tour of movie sets for $15 per person, stroll down the Hollywood Walk of Fame, and visit the Kodak Theatre. When it’s time for lunch, find the best hot dogs in town at Pinks. Make your way back to the highway through the posh neighborhoods of Beverly Hills. Who knows, you may even run into a celeb or two.

California Coasting

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By heather Fisher

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NEWPORT BEACH

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Waves are crashing on your left. Your best friend is on your right. And the open road is straight ahead. The Pacific Coast Highway is your ticket to a 500­mile stretch of scenic California coastline,

famous for its beaches and bustling cities. One of the nation’s most beautiful drives, California’s coast can be tackled in ten hours or ten days. This road trip is yours; you set the rules. But to ensure that you get the most out of your coastal expedition without spending all of last month’s paychecks, we’ve mapped out some of the best stops.

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SANTA BARBARA A trip through California wouldn’t be complete without visiting one of the state’s twenty­one missions. This is your chance to tour the 223­year­old Santa Barbara mission for $5 per person. Be sure to plan ahead and check tour times.

Put on your swimsuit, grab a towel, and head down to one of the cleanest shorelines in California—Newport Beach. After you’ve soaked up the sun, stroll the boardwalk toward the Balboa Fun Zone, where you can grab a Balboa Bar or chocolate covered banana, ride the ferry, go kayaking, or rent tandem bikes. Hungry? Dine at Ruby’s on the pier as the sun sets.

NEWPORT BEACH

January 2010

SolvangA drive into Solvang will have you wondering if you’ve left the California coast and entered a quaint town of northern Europe. Stop to feed the ostriches, walk past the Danish­style shops, and try the delicious olallieberry pie. If you’re feeling daring, try an ostrich burger at the local café.

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SAN SIMEONLocated in the town of San Simeon, Hearst Castle is a National Historic Landmark whose doors used to open only to celebrities and famous guests. The elaborate estate is now open to the public for guided tours at only $24 per person. Take a few hours to explore the castle’s 4 houses and 150+ rooms! While several tours are offered, Tour One is recommended for first­timers.BIG SUR

This is your stop for breathtaking ocean views as you look out over plunging coastal ridges. If you’re feeling a sense of adventure, pull the car over and hit the trail (1/2 mile) to the Point Sur Lighthouse. Not up to a hike? You can view the lighthouse at a distance from the comfort of your car. On your drive through Big Sur, be sure not to miss the stunning view over Bixby Bridge.

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10 San FranciscoGolden Gate Bridge. Fisherman’s Wharf. Lombard Street. China town. Wax Museum. Painted Ladies. Ghirardelli Square. San Francisco skyline. Cable cars. Alcatraz. Enough said? Thought so.

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SANTA CRUZ If you’re ready to shop, pull off the highway and stay a while in the beach city of Santa Cruz. Downtown is guaranteed to have shops that fit your interests. You’ll also want to check out Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, one of only two seaside amusement parks on the West coast.

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6 CAMBRIAYou’ll want to stay the night in Cambria, so plan your trip accordingly. The Bridge Street Inn is a cozy guest house for only $22 per night, breakfast included. This European­style inn is popular, so reserve your spot in advance. If you’re looking for a daytime activity, Cambria is ideal for a bike ride to the coast or even to your next stop—Hearst Castle.

www.harrisontravel.com

youRawy

own

travel

You turn around and there’s another one—a friend who has had the experience of a lifetime

while traveling in another country. We’ve seen them: the friend who studied abroad in Japan, the co-worker who spent his summer

backpacking in Europe, and the roommate who visited family in Qatar.

Friends tell exciting stories, but cultural experiences are made up of more than tourist

spots or even educational opportunities. While those experiences are enjoyable and certainly deserve to be on your list of must-

sees and -dos, certain aspects of a culture can be appreciated only when you’re living among

and serving the people.

Bringing Hope Serving—Not Just Seeing—the World

Giggles erupted around the circle as two­ and three­year­olds fell to the ground. “Ring around the Rosie” was apparently their favorite game. I discovered this two weeks into my stay at the orphanage in Bei Wu, China, when Mi­cah and Jamie Darrell, two of the oldest boys in the room, took my hands and started to spin. We had barely begun to sing when the other children in the room rushed over to us. By the time we had started our fifth round, nearly all the kids who could walk were playing.

At the end of the first round, it became clear that two of the children who were the most shy, Alex and Cyndi, wanted to play too but didn’t quite know how to join. Micah and Jamie noticed. They each grabbed a hand and that of another child’s, then put them together, form­ing our circle for another round before coming back to take my hands again.

Serving orphanages and children can be mor­ally and emotionally rewarding, as well as plain fun. I found that I learned and appreciated much about China’s culture while living among the people, and it was cheaper than touring, too. I spent most of my time in the orphanage, but I also made time to visit some of the sites that make the country famous. In fact, I was

enjoying myself so much that I added another month to my stay. And there’s no reason why you can’t have a similar experience.

finding opportunities

So now that you know you want to do service travel, do some re­search. Most groups allow you the time and opportunity to do some of the sightseeing on your list. In fact, they encourage it. Some plan your trips; others leave your free time entirely up to you. Choose the one that fits your wants best and go with it.

Of course, you won’t have much opportunity to do anything if you can’t find a good organization to volunteer for. This process is actu­ally a bit more complicated than you might think. Some programs are cheap but may take the money you give them and put it in their own pockets. Other groups charge exorbitantly. You’ll want to find an affordable program, but you should also investigate where your money goes. Beyond googling “service groups,” which can be iffy, you probably don’t know where to look. Here are some starting points:

Use the resources available at universities. Take a look at what inter­national programs your local university or college offers. These might pertain primarily to study abroad, but there are usually other options available too. Even if the university itself doesn’t offer anything, ser­vice programs may visit schools for recruiting. Watch for posters and announcements, check the campus calendar, and contact the school’s student­service organization to see if they know of any opportunities.

Talk with people who’ve already done it. These people love to talk about their experiences. Compare their stories; maybe they have

zines.byu.edu/stowaway34

Every few days, the nannies would bundle up the children and take them on a walk to the park. This day I was fortunate enough to catch them as they were leaving and was invited along.

I was enjoying myself so much that I added another month to my stay. And there’s no reason why you can’t have a similar experience.

Find Your Service NicheBy Ariel Waite

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ARIEL WAITE

35January 2010

Bunking out at the Great Wall of China. Weekend excursions to various locations throughout China gave me a chance to get to know fellow volunteers and make friends with Chinese tourists.

The New Hope Foundation finds children from orphanages all over China and provides funding to facilitate surgeries for problems that would prevent them from being adopted or even surviving.

www.adoption.state.gov/hague/accreditation/agencies.html: This site lists legitimate and accredited adoption agencies that you can contact.

www.charitynavigator.org: Charity Navigator evaluates thousands of North American–based charities and allows you to take a look at their income statements and expenses to see if any complaints have been made against them.

www.hopefosterhome.com: The New Hope Foundation runs the orphanage where I volunteered in China. Take a look at the requirements and at the news from the directors.

If you’re interested in learning more about or volunteering in adoption services, check out these websites:

some tips on how to save money or which pro­grams to avoid. If they worked with a good or­ganization, they’re usually willing to put you in contact with the directors of the program.

Contact adoption agencies. You don’t have to adopt a child to talk with these organiza­tions. These agencies are aware of events in the countries their kids are from. Even if they don’t have any service opportunities available at the time, they’ll likely know of orphanages or other organizations looking for help and can direct you to them.

While using these resources, see if you can find any organizations that are based solely in the country of your choice. These places will be the cheapest since they focus on one area, not several.

This is the route I took on my own trip. While volunteering for three months, I taught pre­school to the four­ and five­year­olds every morning, played with the children, worked on tasks assigned to me by the directors, and wandered the nearby village. My weekend ac­tivities were left entirely to my own discretion, and I took a few trips to the Great Wall and other nearby cities for sightseeing. Short­term volunteers were required to pay for food, ac­commodation, and transport, but for volun­teers who stayed more than one month, as I did, these were all provided for free.

These are only a few resources, meant to help you get started in your search for inexpensive yet enriching travel. If you see an opportunity before you, don’t let your fears hold you back. You’ll learn a lot more about your abilities and strengths while volunteering and living in­expensively in a foreign country. In fact, you might just find yourself extending your trip by a month or two.

When Rex and Melodie Head were first married, travel was impor­tant to them and they loved traveling as tourists, experiencing the sights of new places. But then they decided that maybe there was something more that they could do—something more meaningful.

Thus began the search for an opportunity that would be perfect for their young family. Eventually, Rex visited an orphanage in Ecua­dor and found that the young girls there lacked basic care, such as proper nutrition and attention. These girls stole their way into his heart.

The year after Rex discovered this orphanage, the entire family and a few other volunteers traveled to Ecuador and worked to establish a sustainable volunteer service. They tried to run the resulting organization from their home in Idaho, with Rex travel­ing to Ecuador with each new group to help them begin, but they soon realized that this plan wasn’t feasible.

What was their solution? The family sold their home in Idaho and moved to Ecuador. “We saw the need and the opportunity to make a difference,” says Melodie. Since then, they’ve centered their travel on this opportunity and have dedicated unmeasured time and re­sources to serving children through the creation of the Orphanage Support Services Organization (OSSO).

OSSO is a nonprofit charitable organization that has given volunteers the opportunity to serve in fourteen orphanages in Ecuador since 1999. Hundreds of orphaned or abandoned children suffer from lack of care and attention, leaving them socially, intellectually, physically, and emotionally disadvantaged. Often there are not enough resources and individuals to answer the needs of these children.

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From Idahoto Ecuador

American family buildsorphanage abroad

By Brinai Johnston

PHOTOS COURTESY OF AMBER STECKLEY

Samuel, the second son in the family, recounts a time when all the children were making books out of construction pa­per and pipe cleaners and writing stories on them. “Annie, a young girl there, spontaneously giving me her book,” says

Samuel. This act prompted all of the other kids in the orphanage to give their books to the other volunteers. “It was a very touching moment.”

These small moments are what make their work and selfless giving of time, resources, and energy worth it. Through the work of the Head family and the efforts of OSSO vol­unteers, financial support, educa­tional advancement, and daily care have become much more available to the children at the orphanages.

But the lives of the orphans are not the only ones that are changed; the volunteers’ lives are changed as well. More than 2,000 volunteers have worked through OSSO, and

the volunteers have had opportunities to experience another culture, to see a new place, and to leave that place better for their having been there. They leave having become better themselves, too.

That is where the volunteers come in: they form the structure for organizations such as OSSO. Their resourc­es, time, and efforts are what make the improvement of the children’s lives possible. Throughout the year, OSSO offers both long (ten­week) and short (three­ to fourteen­day) volunteer opportunities to serve and make a difference.

Rex and Melodie have six chil­dren ranging from college­aged to infant—James, Samuel, Angela, Jacob, Anna, and Jo­seph—who have worked to­gether in Ecuadorian orphan­ages. When asked what has meant the most to them, the family members answer that the small, personal experiences stand out.

Melodie remembers braiding one little girl’s hair. The girl was thrilled, and her joy made Mel­odie realize what an impact she could have. “She doesn’t have a mom to braid her hair or see how her day went when she comes home from school, but I can do this for her right now,” says Melodie.

January 2010 37

“She doesn’t have a mom to braid her hair or see how her day went when she comes home from school, but I can do this for her right now.”

—Melodie HeadCo-Founder of OSSO

If you would like more information about the Orphanage Support Services Organi-zation, please contact Rex and Melodie Head at:

OSSO P.O. Box 345 Rexburg, ID 83440 USA

Phone: 208-359-1767Website: www.orphanagesupport.orgEmail: info@orphanagesupport.org

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Margaret Loveless, like any other overwhelmed student, had big plans for fall break last year. But unlike most students, Margaret spent her break in Ghana, working with a program called America Helps to provide medical services to rural schools and villages.

She spent most of her time in Ghana working with children in deaf schools. Margaret explains, “A lot of the kids go deaf just because they had simple earaches when they were younger. So it’s really something that could be treated with just eardrops or medication. Just an earache. It’s sad.”

The schools that Margaret worked in were similar to orphanages. Because their families don’t know sign language and have no way to support them, the deaf chil­dren are usually taken away from home at a young age and sent to deaf schools through­out the country. Working with volunteer doctors, Mar­garet helped administer hear­ing tests to the children living in these schools. Volunteers also cleaned out the children’s ears, some of which even had rocks in them.

The doctors used the re­sults of the hearing tests to determine who was eligible for a hearing aid. If a child’s level of hearing was high enough for a hearing aid to be helpful, he or she would be immediately fitted for one. The results were amaz­ing. Children who could not hear before were suddenly blessed with the gift of sound.

After the hearing aids were in place, Margaret also helped the children learn how to speak. “I would grab their hand and hold it to my throat and say ‘ba, ba’ or ‘da, da’ so they could feel it. And then I would put their hand on their throat and they would try to mimic the sound and the feeling. And so when a lot of kids got their hearing aids, they would go, ‘da, da, da, ba, ba, ba,’ and you would hear them for hours. Or they would try to sing or hum.”

The schools form tight­knit communities, and the children love each other very much. Margaret says that they were very supportive of each other—there were cheers of ex­citement every time one of them got a hearing aid. “There were only a few who were upset that they didn’t get one,” she says. “One girl kept coming up to me with her sheet and pointing at it. I had to keep telling her that her hearing was too low. She kept signing that she wanted one. So I had

to take her over to the audiologist, and he had to tell her that her hearing was too low and that there was nothing they could do. So she was a little sad.”

But all the children were glad the volun­teers were there to help them and were open and loving with them. “They loved it if you told them that they were beauti­ful,” says Margaret. “They would sign their thanks and tell the volunteers that they were beautiful too.”

Margaret says she loved the chance to help people in Ghana and to experience the cul­ture and people in a way that wouldn’t have been possible otherwise. “I think it’s worth

traveling to different countries to do service instead of just touring,” she says. “You are actually helping the people there. . . . I would go back again if I could. They are the happiest, humblest people. They’re very loving and grate­ful. The kids were always signing ‘thank you, thank you.’”

Hearing Ghana

“They loved it if you told them that they were beautiful. They would sign their thanks and tell the volunteers that they were beautiful too.”

—Margaret Loveless Student Volunteer

For more information on the America Helps program, please visit www.americahelps.net.

If you would like to volunteer in Ghana, please contact American Helps at:

Email: ribs@hearingaidpros.com

Phone: 1­435­753­4133 (c/o Bridgerland Audiology)

Mail: 293 South Main Street, Logan, Utah 84321

PHOTO COURTESY OF HEATHER BEUTLER

America Helps is able to give the gift of hearing to hundreds of deaf children in Ghana.

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By Heather Beutler

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cover story

41

Ibegan in the parking lot. It was a cool morning in late autumn, not quite chilly enough for a jumper, but certainly brisk

enough to encourage a quick pace. After stretching, my three friends and I started our jog along the sand. Though we ran along the breakwall outside an industrial harbor, we were surrounded by the fresh, salty smell of the sea. The run from the parking lot past the lighthouse and to the end of the breakwall is just over a half a mile, and our pause at the end filled us all with wonder. We were in Australia.Beaches are not just for surfing and sunning. In Newcastle, Australia, Nobby’s Beach is also for running. Beaches all along the Central and North Coast of New South Wales, Australia, draw tourists, but without the crowds you’ll find in Sydney. From our traveling and talking with other college students and locals, we’ve picked our top three stops for more off-the-beaten-path New South Wales beaches.

Beaches By PeTer V. hilTon

PHOTO COURTESY OF SPENCER COOPER

Down Under

Port Macquarie is not only great for surfing but is surrounded by beautiful walks.

42 zines.byu.edu/stowaway

Newcastle has that perfect balance between a busy city and close­knit town.”

The busiest part of the city is just south of the harbor. There you’ll find the best place for dinner, the famous Blue Water Pizza. If it’s not pizza you’re looking for, though, there’s a stretch of seafood and Italian choices available.

One of the nice things about Newcastle is the nightlife. While not quite as hectically hormone­driven as Sydney, Newcastle is big enough to entertain. Head on over to Beaumont street (locals and maps make it easy to find) and take your pick of gourmet restaurants and entertainment. When you get up the next morning, the beach is still just a few minutes away.

While Nobby’s Beach is Newcastle’s signature beach, you can also try Redhead (great for surfing) and Newcastle (ideal for families). Basically, from lying out by day to going out at night, Newcastle covers it all. It’s like Kaytlin said: Newcastle has the perfect balance.

newcastle

At Nobby’s Beach, locals and the occasional tourist turn up any time from 5:00 am onward to run, bike, surf, and swim. Some beach­goers come from the south, pouring out of the suburban hills. Others follow the harbor boardwalk out from the west, trickling from high­rise apartments and hotels.

Our round­trip run took us past early­morning fitness junk­ies. There were old men with deep­fried tans, clutching surf­boards as they had for fifty years. There were students from Newcastle University coming to bike, run, or stake out a spot on the sand before their more studious peers made their way down after class.

While you’ll find reefs if you get out far enough in the water, they’re usually too far below the surface to cause much con­cern for surfers or swimmers. The slope is gradual, leading to small swells, but a good wind can whip the waves up into a surf.

“The water is usually cool and refreshing, especially if the past few days have been cool,” says Kaytlin Clough (Newcastle, NSW). “I also tend to find that no matter how hot a summer day is, as soon as you get to the beach, you already feel degrees cooler.” In addition to mild temperatures, mild personalities abound as well. Kaytlin explains, “The tourists blend in. I think

PHOTO COURTESY OF PETER V. HILTON

NewcastleDistance from Sydney: 99 miles (159km), or 2:15 hours by car

Population: 288,732

Above: Nobby’s Beach is beautiful but quiet in the early mornings. Left: The Christ Church Cathedral at New-castle is a prominent landmark, visible from along the breakwall at Nobby’s Beach. Right: Nobby’s Head Lighthouse was built in 1854.

PHOTO COURTESY OF MCARETAKER ON FLICKR.COM

PHOTO COURTESY OF PETER V. HILTON

43January 2010

Port Macquarie

Distance from Sydney: 238 miles (384km), or 4:45 by car

From Newcastle: 152 miles (245km), or about 3:09 hours by car

Population: 39,219

Above: Coffs Harbour is the hub of the North Coast—but still accessibly small and beautiful. Below: The Big Banana at Coffs Harbour is the first of the Big Things in Australia.

coffs Harbour

Distance from Sydney: 332 miles (534 km), or about 6:44 by car

From Port Macquarie: 101 miles (163 km), or about 2:23 hours by car

Population: 26,353

port macquarie

If Newcastle is great for balance, Port Macquarie is great for quiet relaxation—a reputation that came after something of a 360­degree turn in the atmosphere. “It supposedly has a dark history. Prison, or some sort,” says Cris Tamarit (Fort Collins, CO). “But now it’s a great place. Lots of moms with strollers, parks and beaches—quaint town.” And it really is a great town. Spencer Cooper’s (San Jose, CA) comparison gives the perfect image: “It’s kind of like Florida—lots of retired people live there.” While that means that the nightlife will never compare to Sydney’s (or to Newcastle’s), you don’t go to Port Macquarie for the nightlife. You go for the sand and the waves.

The Port Macquarie surf and swim is much the same as you’d find at Nobby’s Beach in Newcastle. You can check surf conditions via an online webcam. Regardless of whether or not your goal is to master the surfboard or just lie out, you’ll find a beach perfectly suited to what you want.

“I meet people from all over the world and have long­time friends from all over the globe,” says Lee Scott (Port Macquarie, NSW) about Port Macquarie. It may get a touch crowded in the summer, but it’s less of a destination town than a passing­through town. And the people do pass through. Lee notes that you can meet anyone “from backpackers to families and [older people] out camping,” even though the crowding stays pretty low. Port Macquarie, like some of the nearby towns, is also known for the beautiful views, both of the beaches and of the surrounding hills.

coffs harbour

No one can talk about Coffs Harbour without mentioning the Big Banana. This is because it is right on the NSW Pacific Highway and is a forty­year­old, forty­foot­long banana, surrounded by banana plantations—and a banana theme park.

What that means is that anybody going from Sydney to Brisbane is going to stop by the Big Banana. While it’s definitely worth the

PHOTO COURTESY OF AENNEKEN ON FLICKR.COM

Pasha Bulker, Beached

photo—even more so than the Big Golden Guitar of Tamworth, Australia’s country music capital, a few hours inland from Coffs—whether it’s worth more than the photo is up to you.

After all, you came for the beach.

“Tourist density is really low at Coffs’s beaches,” says Cris. Surfing without a wetsuit, Cris found the water temperature to be a bit on the chillier side in Australia’s early spring. By summer (November to February), it’s warmed just as well as the rest of the North Coast beaches.

While the Big Banana draws the crowds, Coffs itself is a little quieter. “It felt like a ghost town,” Cris remembers. “The beach­es were not crowded at all and there were very few homes tak­ing advantage of the ocean­view real estate. It was different from the California beaches I’m used to.” One of the biggest differences is that Coffs Harbour is located in an area of NSW that is a dry rainforest. While that sounds a little like an oxymo­ron, the result is something beautiful. If you coast down one of the main roads coming into Coffs—Waterfall Way—you’ll find yourself immersed in greenery and shrouded in mist. Once you’ve hit the beaches and seen the Big Banana, a drive down Waterfall Way will definitely top off the trip.

Although Cris found Coffs to be pretty empty, it does get its share of tourists during the summer. The crucial thing to remember about Coffs—and the North Coast in general—is that though the tourists come, they’re in smaller numbers. People come to Coffs when they want to have an adventure, to escape the lines at the Sydney Opera House, and just cruise north through beautiful scenery and past gorgeous beaches.

And besides, if anyone really is craving that feeling of standing in line, the Big Banana is just a quick hop to the north.

Once “selling” on eBay for over sixteen million dollars, the oceangoing bulk carrier Pasha Bulker made waves—or was made by waves—when it blew ashore on Nobby’s Beach in Newcastle in June 2007.

After three weeks of failed attempts to salvage it and wor-ries that Nobby’s would just be stuck with an eyesore of a new tourist attraction, July 2007 saw the carrier refloated, with combined efforts of tugboats and very thick cables.

The event was celebrated on YouTube by Paul Robinson (www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfHvLAv0x-M), coinciding as it did with the time frame of the Transformers movie release.

And with the crowds that it drew, the Pasha Bulker has stayed current in the local Newcastle lexicon.

done cruising

I concluded my stay at Newcastle by opting for a bookend run. This time, my friends and I mimicked the apartment residents and started farther west, along the harbor. Newcastle is one of the world’s largest exporters of coal, and north of the harbor is a magnificent sight of metal and machinery. We enjoyed the pristine harbor all through our run.

Putting sole to sidewalk at the Crowne Plaza Hotel on the famed Honeysuckle Drive, we took a three­mile loop that once again included the spray along the quay as we got to the end of the breakwall. Pausing for breath and to hear the ocean roll in the dark, we could see the impressive and historic Christ Church Cathedral lit up on the hill to the south. In that moment, our little group, surrounded by rock and water, realized we really had found the secret to Australia’s beaches. That secret is the North Coast.

Each beach has its own appeal. Each has its quirks and is more than just a place to surf or to sun; it’s a place to live, to recharge, and to relax. Hitting these beaches means that you, not the crowds, define your beach experience. With the NSW North Coast, “you had to be there” doesn’t really cut it. You have to be there, though, does—and that’s why I’ll go back.

We really had found the secret to Australia’s beaches. That secret is the North Coast.

Pasha Bulker still draws crowds after three years of being on Nobby’s Beach.

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The Quest for St. JaneSearching for the Real Jane Austen

By Diane Ferguson

It is a truth, universally acknowledged, that fans of Jane Austen will seek out other self­identified “Janeites” and subsequently form book clubs, hold Regency balls in

conjunction with sci­fi conventions, and watch the entire A&E five­hour adaptation of Pride and Prejudice in one sit­ting on Jane Austen’s birthday (in addition to once a month throughout the rest of the year).

The recent resurgence of Jane Austen films and the success of Seth Grahame­Smith’s hit novel Pride and Prejudice and Zombies have fueled a renewed interest in the creator of the romantic comedy genre. In a way, this has resurrected the old “cult of St. Jane,” the popular nineteenth­century belief that Jane Austen was a quiet, demure English gentle­woman who never criticized anyone—a characterization that, although largely untrue, continues to swirl around the author. Even today, many readers feel a special affinity with Jane, as if they have just come from tea in her parlor.

But after we’ve stripped away the leg­end and the hype, who was Jane Aus­ten, really? What was she like? And what inspired her to write her novels?

One of the best ways in which Austen fans can satisfy their curiosity is by tak­ing a trip—a pilgrimage, if you will—to significant locations from the author’s life and novels. Not only can you take guided tours of Jane’s various homes, but you can also act out your favorite scenes from Pride and Prejudice on the steps of Pemberley—really the grand estate Chatsworth in Derbyshire—or other adaptations at various filming locations around the country.

To quench my own thirst for all things Jane Austen, I sat down with several students and a connoisseur of literary

tourism and learned where to go to find the real Jane Austen, as well as how to navigate Britain on a budget.

a star is born

Born in Steventon, Hampshire, in 1775, Jane spent most of the first twenty­six years of her life at the rectory, where her father lived and served as the local pastor. Having im­mersed herself in a diverse canon of English literature and participated in amateur theatricals in the family’s barn, Jane began writing the first drafts of the novels that became Sense and Sensibility and Pride and Prejudice.

Unfortunately, you can’t visit the Steventon vicarage any­more because it was torn down in 1820. However, you can

still visit the field where the rectory used to stand. Be careful, though: if you visit Steventon during the rainy season (which could be essentially any day), the lane leading up to the parson­age gets muddy very easily. It might be worth your time, though, if you’ve seen the film Becoming Jane; Steventon is the place where Tom Lefroy came to visit Jane after a Christmas party where, as she described in a letter, they did “everything most profligate and shocking in the way of dancing and sitting down together.”

bath water

When her father retired from the parish in 1801, Jane and her family moved to Bath, where her parents hoped her matrimonial prospects would improve. And in 1802, while visiting friends, Jane accepted a proposal from Harris

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Tom Lefroy and Jane Austen did “everything most profligate and shocking in the way of dancing and sitting down together” at a Christmas party.

Bigg­Wither but changed her mind and rejected him the next morning. Many years later, she wrote, “Anything is to be preferred or endured rather than marrying without affection,” a statement remarkably similar to something Elizabeth Bennet or Marianne Dashwood might say.

Bath boasts one of the most celebrated Jane Austen hubs in the world. First on your must­see list should be the Jane Austen Centre, where you can view exhibits related to Jane’s life and works, see reproductions of regency attire (including the costumes from the 2007 adaptation of Persuasion), and take tea in the Regency Tea Rooms.

The Jane Austen Centre also provides walking tours through the streets of Bath, which have been preserved in all their nineteenth­century glory. Stowaway’s very own Brinai Johnston visited Bath while on a study abroad trip to London. She says, “Walking around Bath is the best part—pick a few things you want to see and then just walk around.”

One of Brinai’s favorite discoveries was the crescent­shaped street where Anne Elliot runs after Captain Wentworth in essentially every adaptation of Persuasion. In fact, Becca Lee Ogden, a graduate student, recommends taking a copy of Persuasion with you so you can walk the cobblestone path that Anne and Captain Wentworth tread at the end of the novel.

If you really want to immerse yourself in Bath culture, you’ll need to stop by the Pump Room. In the late eigh­teenth century, it was highly fashionable to go to the Pump Room to “take the waters” from the Roman baths

Jane Austen (1775–1817)

January 2010

Britain on a Budget

It always seems like things are pricier across the pond. Here are a few tips from Dr. Paul Westover, a literary tourism historian and enthusiast, to help you get the most pound from your pence:

Book your flight for the off-season. It’s cheaper to fly in the fall or winter, so try to go during the school year on study abroad or on a vacation during these months.

Don’t miss out. Make sure you see all the museums on your itinerary during the day because everything in London closes at 6:00 pm. At night you can go to shows on the West End and elsewhere for a reduced price.

Skip the double decker bus. The Tube is by far the best way to get around in London. You can buy a one­day pass for $12–15.

Eat like the locals. Although pub grub smacks of Old World charm, modern grocery stores are the best bet for your pocketbook. Buy some snacks like granola bars to carry around to various sights.

Be like Elizabeth Bennet. Try to walk whenever you can. You can also rent a bike to ride to your next destination and drop it off at another rental station. Either way, not only do you get to go at your own pace, you get to exercise while you soak up the culture.

Take home memories, not junk. Remember, even though it’s important to save up money for your trip, don’t just go there and buy tacky souvenirs. Focus on the experience itself.

Cheerio!

Jon Ogden reacts to the taste of the world-renowned water at the Pump Room in Bath, England.

Jane Austen’s writing desk at Chawton Cottage where she wrote some of her most famous works.

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to improve one’s health. But according to some, the water isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. In fact, it’s absolutely terrible: Becca recalls, “It tastes like blood because there’s so much iron in it.” But in spite of these warnings, it’s still worth it to pay the $1.50 to quaff a cup of the “healthful” liquid.

the creaKy door

In 1809, Jane moved with her mother, her sister, and a friend into Chawton Cottage. This was a small house on the estate belonging to Jane’s brother Edward, who had been adopted by a wealthy childless couple. It was here that Jane finished many of her novels and then passed away in 1817, at the age of forty­one.

At Chawton, the guides tell visitors that Jane wrote in a room with a creaky door so that every time she heard the door being opened she could hurry and hide the manu­script she had been working on. Although the story is unlikely to be true, the cottage houses many artifacts of Jane Austen lore that are grounded in fact. After Jane’s death, Cassandra, her only sister, burned hundreds or perhaps thou­sands of her sister’s letters, leaving us to reconstruct Jane’s attitudes about life and love from the remaining 160, some of which have been reproduced and posted throughout Chawton. Becca says that reading these letters heightened the emotion of the experience, especially reading about Cas­sandra’s reaction to her sister’s death.

One of the house’s many charms is Jane’s writing desk, where she finished Sense and Sensibility, Pride and Prejudice, and Northanger Abbey and penned Mansfield Park, Emma, and

Persuasion. Becca, who is writing her master’s thesis on Emma, says that she waited twenty minutes for the room to clear so she could savor a moment alone by Jane’s desk.

After touring the house, seeing a lock of Jane’s hair (which has been bleached blonde over time), and examining the display of costumes from Becoming Jane, you can take a promenade through the garden and ponder Jane’s genius and wit on one of the many benches in the park.

saint Jane

So, who was Jane Austen? Was she, as her brother Henry wrote in the introduction to Persuasion, “thoroughly

religious and devout; fearful to giving offence to God, and incapable to feeling it towards any fellow creature”? Or was she, as Mary Russell Mitford, a daughter of one of Jane’s friends, quoted her mother, “the prettiest, silliest, most affected, husband­hunting butterfly she ever remember[ed]”?

Jane was most likely an ordinary person with an extraordinary ability to describe the society in which she lived with precision and a gentle touch of

humor. Becca’s sentiments articulated it best when she said that it’s better to be “realistic about romance” than to cling to false notions, especially about our heroes and heroines. They aren’t gods or saints, with great power and authority beyond the comprehension of mere mortal minds. They’re real people, and we can learn real lessons from them.

I hope to take my own advice to go and pay homage to Jane Austen someday soon—not as a pilgrim worshipping saint, but as a friend.

“Walking around Bath is the best part— pick a few things you want to see and then just walk around.”

—Brinai Johnston

PHOTO COURTESY OF BECCA OGDEN PHOTO COURTESY OF BECCA OGDEN

49January 2010

If you’ve ever fantasized about being Elizabeth Bennet and finding Mr. Darcy, it’s time to make that dream a reality. Throughout England you can find various locations used in film adaptations of Pride and Prejudice, Persuasion, and a plethora of other costume dramas.

Here is a list of must­see sights:

Lyme Hall: Located in the Peak District, this extensive Tudor­era house has been converted into an Italian­style mansion. And that’s not all—it served as Pemberley in Pride and Prejudice (1995).

Chatsworth: While you’re wandering around the Peak District, stop by the “other” Pemberley: Chatsworth. Used in Pride and Prejudice (2005) and The Duchess (2008), this lavish estate is widely believed to have been Jane Austen’s inspiration for Pemberley.

Stanage Edge: Perhaps the most striking image in Pride and Prejudice (2005) is of Elizabeth Bennet (portrayed by Keira Knightley) standing on the edge of a cliff and no doubt wondering, “What are men to rocks and mountains?” You stand atop those very crags at Stanage Edge in the Peak District—just be careful not to fall over the edge!

Stourhead Estate: At this National Trust, you can act out not only one but two scenes from Pride and Prejudice (2005). First you can dash across the Palladian Bridge that spans a narrow stretch of the garden’s lake. Then, while you catch your breath in the Temple of Apollo, you can wait for Mr. Darcy to come and propose in the rain.

Don’t forget to take a camera—and a guy to play Mr. Darcy—so you can capture these romantic moments forever!

PHOTOS COURTESY OF WHITNEY RICKS

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51January 2010

SouvenirSmarts

Finding unique and meaningful souvenirs can be easy and fun—even on a budget. Leave the key chains on the racks and walk away from the snow globe displays. Here are 10 tips for picking something that won’t become junk you’ll never use.

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Anything can be a souvenir. A friend of mine just got back from a trip to Florida. She brought a fine leather motorcycle jacket home with her. Nothing else. It’s the sort of thing you could find pretty much anywhere—it doesn’t have anything to do with the beach, oranges, Disney World, or alligator wrestling—but she loves it nonetheless. And every time she wears the jacket, it reminds her of the great times she had on her trip.

There is a time and place for the kitschy stuff. Cheesy souvenirs do have their pur­poses—just be aware of how closely the things you are buying match up to the things you really want. Don’t come home with a suitcase full of shot glasses just because they were everywhere. (Unless, of course, that’s exactly what you want.)

Use memories as souvenirs. Think of the pictures you take as souvenirs. They will remind you of the places you’ve seen and the experiences you’ve had just as well as anything else, and they will cost you virtually nothing. Journals can be another cheap but meaningful souvenir. Consider buying a special journal or notebook and writing in it while you travel.

Think about how you will get your souvenirs home. Be aware of how much extra room you have in your suitcases. Before you buy anything too big or too fragile, consider how you’re going to get it on a plane and how dif­ficult it will be to get it back home in one piece. You don’t want to end up paying more for shipping and insurance than you paid for the actual item.

Look for things that are unique to the lo-cale. Never, under any circumstances, pass up the opportunity to buy Swiss chocolate in Switzerland.

Live animals make bad souvenirs. Enough said.

Don’t overlook free stuff. Unique rocks, shells, or leaves can make great souvenirs, but check to make sure it’s legal before you take anything. Items like brochures and ticket stubs can also replace traditional souvenirs.

Go with your gut. If something stands out to you, buy it. If you suspect you will regret not buying something, buy it. If you don’t know where you could ever find something else like it, buy it. A word of caution: beware of buyer’s remorse. Once you leave the country with something, you’re stuck with it.Decide what you want to buy before you

go. Think about the sorts of things you want before you go shopping, then look for those items specifically. This will give you enough time to compare quality and prices and to find some great bargains.

Think outside of the box. Don’t be afraid to be creative with your souvenirs. Be spontaneous!

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53January 2010

The monkeys in Spain expect more than just food from visitors. Some of them are hitchhikers, wanting a lift to the nearest town.

compiled by heather fisher

from the

watch for monKeys

While we were on a flight to Spain for a family vacation, one of the pilots suggested my husband and I take our three little girls to the Rock of Gibraltar but warned us to watch out for the monkeys. We thought he was kidding. We drove onto the island and asked a tour guide how to drive to the top of the Rock of Gibraltar. He told us and then said, “If you see any monkeys, make sure you feed them.” We drove up to the top on small, windy roads. Monkeys were everywhere. Remembering the tour guide’s advice, my husband instructed our girls to throw a pretzel out the window. They did and, in a flash, a monkey jumped into our small Geo Metro and onto our four­year­old daughter’s head. This animal was huge, with shiny, sharp teeth. We were all screaming like a family of monkeys. It finally jumped out the

window onto the roof of the car. My husband was trying to drive fast, but you can only drive so fast on small, one­lane roads on top of a mountain. The windows were all manual, and I could not reach over to roll it up fast enough. Right when we thought the monkey was gone, it jumped back into the car. My husband grabbed his backpack and gave the intruder a swift push out the window. We stopped the car, rolled up all the windows, and then sat there scream­ing. We were in freak­out mode for five minutes.

—Kristi Cutler

sloppy salutations

In the United Kingdom, everything except the pubs closes around 6:00 pm. This means that if you want to go anywhere in the evening you will need to find yourself at a pub. While I was in Wales last summer with some friends, we decided it would be fun to go out for dinner, so we headed for a pub just down the street. We went up to the bar to order our food. As I was waiting to order, a wrinkled fifty­year­old

man came up to me. He was obvi­ously drunk, and he slurred some­thing entirely incomprehensible in my direction. Unsure of what he said, I gave him a noncommittal smile and half a nod in response, then turned away. The next thing I knew, he grabbed my hand, kissed it moistly and drunkenly, and slurred something else. Since that experience I’ve been increasingly grateful for 24–7 American fast food.

—Rachel Bohman

when in rome

While I was in high school, my mom, some friends, and I took a trip to Rome. While we were there, we decided to visit the Vatican—like tourists do when in Rome. As we walked into the Sistine Chapel, I naturally shifted my gaze toward the ceiling. I didn’t see the first few steps, which sent me tumbling down the rest of them. The room was packed full of people who were all being quiet and respectful because they were in the Sistine Chapel, and here I came falling down the stairs. I wasn’t quiet about it either. Every

PHOTO COURTESY OF KRISTI CUTLER

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Readers share their most embarrassing, funny, or memorable moments of traveling in a foreign country.

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Stories

eye in the Chapel turned and looked at me. All my group and I could do was laugh. Needless to say, we got a few disapproving glares.

—Tasha Tucker

tuna traversing in toKyo

I had heard about a famous Tokyo tuna auction at the Tsukiji Fish Market. I intrepidly made my way into what would become a surefire photo shoot in a warehouse where every inch of floor was covered with giant frozen tuna, minus their fins and mouths. Suddenly I found myself surrounded by the largest non­sumo Japanese men I have ever seen, all with bloody hooks, all wearing boots designed to walk on ice. I was dressed for hiking, not tuna traversing, and I wondered how I had gotten myself into this situa­tion. I slipped and slid, avoiding a hook in the eye when the auctioneer cried and the bell clanged. Moments later, I noticed the roped off visitors area where white­legged Europeans were snapping pictures of the fish I tiptoed through. I quietly slunk away to join them.

—Brian Reddoch

foreign flirting

I was staying in a hostel in Rome and was up late one night chatting away with a cute Korean girl. Both my travel buddy and I were hitting on her, but I was the one getting the looks and winks in return. My buddy and I were still in college, but she had graduated and I started doing a little math to guess her age. When it came up in the conversation that my buddy was twenty­three, she started laughing and blushing. She’d thought he was in high school. Then she told us to guess how old she was. My real guess was twenty­eight, but I said twenty­six—just to be safe. She shook her head. Still blushing and laughing, she said she was thirty. Then she asked how old I was. Now, to give her the benefit of the doubt, I’d been growing out my beard while I traveled and looked a lot older than I was. Even so, I’ll never forget the priceless look of complete and total shock on her face when I told her I was twenty­two. Needless to say, the conversation shifted topics and that night was the last we saw of her.

—Peter V. Hilton

have a story to share? Memories are made on road trips in a way that doesn’t happen at any other time. Jokes become funnier, movies more entertaining, and gas stations more appealing. We want to hear your most memorable road trip experience—from being sandwiched between your brothers in the backseat for hours to driving two hundred miles in the wrong direction to getting a flat tire in the middle of nowhere. Send your story (three hundred words max.) to stowawaymag@gmail.com by January 30. Our favorites will be published in the next issue of Stowaway.

Workers examine frozen tuna at the Tokyo Tuna Auction before the fish is sold.

PHOTO COURTESY OF BRIAN REDDOCH

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55January 2010

In every picture Josh sent home it looked like he hadn’t shaved in months. There he was in every photo—looking like he belonged in the Afghani desert.

But who really belongs in the Afghani desert?

I hadn’t seen Josh in five years. His emails from the field projected a change, a callousness that I wasn’t sure I was ready to handle. How could I relate to this Army Special Forces medic who had spent his last year fighting Taliban?

But when Josh got out of his old truck that was peppered with ski and mountain bike stickers, he was still the friend I knew years ago. We hugged, ordered a couple of Reubens, and got to talking.

I learned a microscopic amount of what his life had been like for the past five years. He trained, he fought, he saved. Afghani children would come to his unit’s headquar­ters on a regular basis to get treat­ment. He performed emergency heart surgery, amputated limbs, and medicated infections. He drove through artillery fire, returned ma­chine gun rounds, and raided hostile villages. He saved soldiers, civilians, and even the occasional stray dog.

And then he came home. How do you come home from an experi­ence that changes your life and is an integral piece of who you are? How do you come home to people who (try as they might) can’t understand what you’ve experienced? How do you manage to fit back in while keeping hold of what you’ve learned and what you’ve become?

It’s not easy. I remember coming back after two months in tumultu­ous Jerusalem, trying to share with others the pain I saw in refugees’ eyes when they talked about their bleak homes or the tears that fell as parents described children lost in suicide bombings. But my friends and family at home couldn’t understand what I hadn’t fully comprehended myself—exactly how experience with a world outside your own can change you.

That’s why we travel. I remember the first time I saw real poverty—I was in Cairo, watching as people washed their clothes in a refuse­strewn river.

I’ll also never forget my first trip to the Italian immigration office to help a Romanian woman register so her very ill nine­month­old daughter could see a doctor. The image of a ninety­year­old Austrian man walking to a shrine down the street, every step painful and belabored, so that he could worship will always be clear in my mind. These experiences are a part of who I am.

So how do you come home after the trip of a lifetime? Will pictures be enough to share what you learned? No, they won’t. Neither will letters or videos or journal entries. What you learn is a part of who you are, but it’s a part that you can’t entirely share with everyone you know and love.

The lessons we learn while we travel become a part of home, the home we carry with us. If we use the opportuni­ties we have to dream about, explore, and discover who we are and how we fit into a bigger picture, we’ll start to take our home with us and share the comfort we find in our newfound wisdom with those that weep over lost lands and arid fields. We’ll start to understand that the world is bigger than we are, and we’ll begin to save lives and love people who are different than we are. By not taking travel for granted, we foster changes that will improve the world—one person and one trip at a time.

war-torN afgHaNistaN aNd tuMultuous JerusaleMby sophie barth

How do you manage to fit back in while keeping hold of what you’ve learned and what you’ve become?

From the Crow’s Nest

Our staff reflects on personal travel experiences

stories

56

Close Encounters with the Dangerous in Yellowstone National Parkby diane ferguson

One day my parents decided to buy a Suburban so my family could see the western United States in luxury (that is, so my brother’s knees wouldn’t constantly be jutting into the back of the driver’s seat). Soon we were off on our most ambitious adventure to date: exploring Yellowstone National Park. En route, we got to experience the pleasant aroma of sulfur emanat­ing from Yellowstone’s many geysers, and the herds of roaming bison taught me a fragrant history lesson about why the pioneers never had to carry firewood to fuel their cooking fires.

In addition to taking many pungent promenades in the park, we visited the nearby town of Jackson, Wyoming. The epitome of the wilderness­themed tourist trap, the town nonetheless provided us with several fun activities, including a shoot­out on the street and a rollicking performance of The Unsinkable Molly Brown by a troupe of student actors. But that’s not all that happened in this once­upon­a­time­in­the­West boomtown.

We arrived in Jackson on a soggy July afternoon and tried to find our motel. There was a river of water in the mid­dle of the road, and we could barely see where we were going because of the torrents of enormous raindrops that were pounding against our Suburban.

But what really scared me was the lightning. A California girl through­and­through, I can deal with earth­quakes without breaking a sweat, but I have no guts in the face of thunder­storms. As we wound our way to the motel, the humongous bolts of lightning were dangerously close: as we waited out the storm, my brother and I swore we saw lightning strike in the motel parking lot.

Eventually, we decided to make a break for our room. My mom now

tells me that we waited until the lightning had passed, but somehow I missed that part of the discussion in my palpable fear of what might hap­pen to me if I ventured outside of the car, especially when our room was on the second story and the stairway was, of course, metal.

After my mom got to the top of the stairs, I realized there was nothing I could do but dash up the stairway and pray that no lightning would strike while I was on the stairs. As my heart raced with fight­or­flight alacrity, I ran up the stairs as fast as I could without holding onto the railing; I knew that if I touched it and lightning struck, it would be the last thing I’d ever do.

And then I found myself at the top. I had made it. Not safe yet, though, I hurried into our motel room where we waited for the storm to subside. As suddenly as it had started hours earlier, the downpour dissipated, and sunlight penetrated the clouds. We were able to see the shoot­out and the show in a fun­filled ending to a traumatic day.

I can’t say that my ordeal on the stairs eradicated my fear of thunderstorms. But after that incident, my fear hasn’t been quite as bad. I proved something to myself on the stairs—I’m not exact­ly sure what, but at least now I know how to use clear thinking and quick action to take control of potentially perilous situations and live to tell the tale. (But don’t try this at home, kids.)

The interior of the neo­Gothic Par­ròquia de Sant Joan d’Horta in Bar­celona, Spain, inspires awe despite its being made of mostly unadorned concrete. In the quiet of that soaring chapel, I culminated my month­long, self­described­as­bohemian jaunt across Europe by listening to stories. I was in conversation with Pare Ignasi, the parish priest, and since we were speaking Spanish and not Catalan, he asked me to call him Ignacio. Then started the stories.

The history of Horta is the history of my people, and Ignacio regaled me with it as he would have done an old friend. The parròquia was founded in 1260, meaning that it was old enough to leave my work very, very well cut out for me. But because at this point in the trip I was poor and alone (my traveling buddy having chosen to remain in Paris), I had the time to work.

Besides, with the cement surfaces high around me, magnifying the soft echoes of our voices, I wasn’t too worried that I was alone or that I had only maybe ten euros in my wallet or that most meals were sliced bread and canned tuna. This moment defied those needs; I was having an adventure. I was alone in a foreign country and was no longer a tourist. I was on a quest.

I asked Ignacio if there were any re­cords in the parish that could help me out: christenings, marriages, deaths, and the like. I had a few family names I wanted to try to track down. He was at first eager—overjoyed through the whole visit “porque viniste buscando tus antepasados” (because you came looking for your ancestors)—but then looked worried. What year? he asked.

I can deal with earthquakes without breaking a sweat, but I have no guts in the face of thunderstorms.

stories of Hortaby peter v. hilton

zines.byu.edu/stowaway

stories

Well, I replied, my ancestor emi­grated to the States in about 1840, which probably means a christening at least as early as 1820.

Ignacio shook his head sadly. During the Civil War in the 1930s, commu­nists and fascists had burned pretty much everything. After another long moment under the dim chapel’s vaulted arches, he suddenly bright­ened. At first, it was to resume our tour—showing me the careful handi­work on the altar at the front and the magnificent painting of the Virgin in the alcove to the right—but then he hit on a new idea.

The archbishopric, he said. The archives there sometimes include duplicate records. His smile broad­ened. You will go tomorrow? You are still here?

I was. Excited, Ignacio finished giving me my private tour of the chapel. We eventually found our way to a small wooden table in the parish house, and with chartreuse, seventies­era wallpaper looking on, I soaked up the last of the stories I had come to find. “Because you came looking for your ancestors,” Ignacio said. “Because you came looking.”

Looking was an adventure; finding was hard. In the archdiocesan ar­chives the next day, with sounds of a street performer’s dulcimer drifting in an open window, I found only a little. I flew home with promises of correspondence. So I still look. But as I thumb through Catalan­Spanish translations, I remember a quiet moment under silent cement arches in a small parish, where I found—if not answers—at least stories.

I wasn’t too worried that I was alone or that I had only maybe ten euros in my wallet or that most meals were sliced bread and canned tuna. I was having an adventure.

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stories

58

When I was in seventh grade, my geography teacher asked our class to write down the place farthest away

from our small town in Pennsylvania we had ever been. I racked my brain for an answer.

The next day I handed in my answer of Vancouver, British Columbia, with a bit of disappointment. I didn’t think my answer would stack up against my classmates’.

Within a few days, my teacher posted everyone’s answers on a map in the classroom. To my surprise, I learned that I was one of the few who had traveled to the west coast. Only a couple people had left the country. I was shocked even more when I saw the large number of people who had never traveled more than 100 miles away from home.

This can’t be true, I told myself. How could so many people stay in one place and not explore what surrounds them? To this day, the thought makes me shudder.

I’ve never been one with a desire to stay in my hometown forever. I love to travel and sightsee; for this, I blame my parents. Since I can remember, our vacations never fit the “norm.”

Most of my friends’ families traveled to the beach for a week each summer, but my family opted for tours of Wil­liamsburg or a road trip to Niagara Falls. One of the best road trips included a weeklong excursion to New England, driving through all the states and touring the Boston and New York City areas.

Without these trips, I believe I would have had a very dull childhood. My summers would have consisted of my nose being buried in a book, reading about these places instead of experiencing them. I would never have seen Monticello or California’s 56­bedroom Hearst Castle. More impor­tantly, I would not have remembered my family the same way. I would have no memory of the time we had my dad pose for a picture with Spiderman at Universal Studios. Or the time when my mom, two sisters, and I tackled a foot­high slice of chocolate cake and an 18­inch éclair—for breakfast. I would never have had these memories if my parents didn’t desire to show their children the world.

Now that I’m on my own, I strive to inspire my friends and roommates to have the same desire I was brought up with, to create an adventure when traveling. Sometimes they want to keep to what they know and never stray off the beaten path. But that’s when I’m stubborn and chal­lenge them to do something out of the ordinary. We skip McDonald’s and eat at a local favorite down the street. We walk the extra mile to see a famous theater. We find out what it’s like to take a side road for better scenery. We try. We experiment. We learn. We create memories.

So here’s my challenge to you: next vacation you take, do something different. Skip the beach. Go eat at a hole­in­the­wall. Before you go, scope out what you can do that other tourists are missing. But whatever you do, get out of town and expand your horizons—dream, explore, and discover. You won’t regret it.

zines.byu.edu/stowaway

By mary coleman

Dream

ExploreDiscover

stowaway essay contest winner

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Well, it’s a very pretty photo, to be sure.

But it’s kind of lacking something. You know.

What with there not being any action, and all.

Sort of how Stowaway’s readers are kind of lacking something, like what with them not seeing any of your advertisements.

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