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S T E L L A M C C A R T N E Y

Stella Mccartney

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A case study into the Stella McCartney brand with a focus on the companies sourcing strategies with heavy consideration on their ethical and sustainable values.

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  • S T E L L A M C C A R T N E Y

  • A N D R E A D E L L A M A T T I A

    N0567112

    Global Production & Sourcing

    Internationl Fashion Business 2015

    Word Count : 5205

  • 01

    31

    25

    21

    07

    03

    TABLE O

    F CO

    NTEN

    TS

    Introduction

    Image List, References,Bibliography

    Conclusion

    Critical Paths

    Countries of Manufacture

    Business Strategy

  • TABLE O

    F CO

    NTEN

    TS

    Introduction

    Image List, References,Bibliography

    Conclusion

    Critical Paths

    Countries of Manufacture

    Business Strategy

  • C H A P T E R O N EI N T R O D U C T I O N

    Stella McCartney launched her own personal brand under her name and showed her first collection in October 2001 with the help and partnership with Kering, which is family-controlled, listed company and is a world leader in apparel and accessories, which develops an ensemble of powerful brands (About Kering, 2012). The brands product line includes womens ready-to-wear, Lingerie (2008), accessories, childrens wear, eyewear, and fragrances (2003). The brand is also partnered with Adidas (2004) called Adidas by Stella McCartney to feature a line of athletic wear.

    Stella Mccartney is a brand that prides themselves on their hard work towards being a sustainable company. The companys mission statement states their own definition of sustainability and their impacts. It states, We are committed to being a responsible, honest, and modern company. What this means to us: We understand that it is our responsibility to do what we can to become a more sustainable company. We are responsible for the resources that we use and the impact that we have. We are always exploring new and innovative ways to become more sustainable (McCartney, 2015). The brand also says that although they are more sustainable, they believe they are just at the beginning stages In many ways we are just beginning our journey towards becoming more sustainable, but we are dedicated to continuing our work towards being able to replace what we have taken from the environment (McCartney, 2015).

    The brands efforts are always on-going. Starting in the year 2012, the brand composes A Sustainability Summary

    to show customers what efforts and organizations they introduced throughout the past year (See Appendix A). While posted on the brands webpage, this allows for customer to really get a feel for the brands identity and what the company is trying to achieve. 2014 sustainability report has yet to be released to the public.

    McCartney has been awarded numerous amounts of awards since 1999 including British Designer of the Year by multiple publications (Harpers Bazaar, Elle, & Vogue), Woman of the Year (Organic Style), Woman of Courage Honouree (Unforgettable Evening Event), Style Icon (Elle),and many more. In 2014, Stella McCartney has 23 freestanding stores and the brand distributes to over 50 countries worldwide.

  • A I M S

    With new sustainability initiatives and resources the brand continuously discovers (See Appendix A for Sustainability Summaries), The Stella McCartney brand is well on their way to becoming a fully sustainable company.

    The aim of this case study is to explore in depth about the companys sourcing strategy and specific manufacturing requirements with a focus on the brands Knitwear range.

    It will explore two countries of origin (Italy & Portugal) that the brand regularly sources from and analyse the history of their manufacturing, resources and availability, Fairtrade and ethics and business climate. It will also include three critical paths of garments from their point of order to the delivery in store which will illustrate the steps needed to develop the garment and the specified time frame. Positive and negative findings will be then identified along with new business trends and sources of supply which may affect the Stella McCartney brands future.

    02

  • C H A P T E R T W OB U S I N E S S S T RA T E G Y

    Supply Chain

    The Stella McCartney supply chain would follow the chart Fig 3.1. After the brand has fully designed, sampled, placed their order, and graded their new products, the designs start to be mass produced. The raw materials are being ordered which will allow for the CMT production to start. The next step would naturally be the production of the full garment. As this stage is being processed, the finalization and delivery preparation is being prepared for the final delivery. This includes the final quality check, addition of all care labels and hangtags, and packaging. When all garments reach the last step, they are now ready for transportation to a warehouse for storage or to retail shops allocated by the brand.

    FIG 3.1 - (Hattingh, 2008)

  • Current Sourcing Strategy

    Stella McCartney sources from a number of different countries including Italy (Silk, Wool, Denim, Shoes, Bags, Cashmere), Portugal (Cotton), Argentina (Wool), Kenya (Bags), China (Olympic Clothing), Hungary (Olympic Clothing), Turkey (Olympic Clothing), and Spain (Shoes). Because the brand has a strict policies to where they produce and source their products (As shown throughout their website. See Appendix B), there are rules and regulations that the factories in these countries that work with McCartney must follow. This allows the brand to have control over their sourcing strategy (I.E the brand can refuse to use a certain factory or facility that does not abide by these rules and regulations).

    Ethical production of products are of main concern when the brand choses their factories. Being sustainable and ethical is what makes this brand so respectable. As seen previously, the company is constantly updating the Sustainability Statements to include what they have introduced. McCartney says, We have always been committed to ethical production and we recently joined the Ethical Trading Initiative. We are also working with the National Resources Defence Council on its Clean by Design program. We are the first luxury brand to team up with them and we are working with them to improve the environmental impact of our textile mills (McCartney, 2015).

    In terms of the wool that is used in the clothing, McCartney makes sure that no sheep is harmed or has been treated in inhuman ways during the mulesing

    process. McCartney says they are very careful who they work with to produce their wool. All wool suppliers are to show and prove full documentation that the treatment of animals has always been human and in good nature. Some of the wool that is used to produce the brands knitwear range comes from McCartneys own sustainable farms.

    04

  • Fair Trade + Sustainability + Ethics

    The mind behind the designs, Stella McCartney, has always had sustainability and fair trade as her number one priority and is imbedded in every garment that is produced. Careful consideration is taken of factories and workers, materials, and packaging. Although the brand does everything in its power to make sustainable and ethical products, they even try to help customers with being sustainable and ethical at home after purchasing. McCartney has teamed up with CleverCare to make this happen. Inside every Stella McCartney garment is a CleverCare symbol which reminds customers to be sustainable. This helps the brand extend their prioritys to not only what they can do while producing the garment, but also telling the consumers what they can do to help as well. By the brand adding this initiative, it adds perception to the customers about the brands beliefs and sustainable/ethical views.

    Product Technology + Innovation

    Because the brand is dedicated to being sustainable and ethical, innovations for new materials and products are always constant. The Stella McCartney website has a page named Meet Our Star Eco Products and outlines the product innovations that are most impactful (See Appendix C).

    With every new product that McCartney designs, she asks How can we do this in a more sustainable and responsible and environmental way (McCartney, 2015). As seen in Appendix C, the brand has been an innovator in product technology and new sustainable innovations. This shows customers that not only is the brand telling them what their sustainable and ethical views are, they are proving it to them with the amount of initiatives and new products that the brand has been generating.

    B U S I N E S S S T RA T E G Y

  • 06

  • C H A P T E R T H R E E

    History

    Italys history with textile production started in the early 1300s. Approximately 25,000 people were employed by the wool textile industry in 1340 (Renaissance, 2009). In the history of the West European economy, wool-based textiles constituted the single most important manufactured commodity to enter both regional and international trade. For this reason, such textiles proved to be vitally important for Italian economic development and for Italys economic pre-eminence during many of these centuries (Munro, 2013). Its to say that Italy has always been involved in the textile and production industry as part of their history and culture, but according to Nicholas Owen, The Italian textiles and clothing industry grew in real terms through the 1990s (Owen, 2003). Fig 4.1 shows the increasing in Italys textiles industry compared to other European countries.

    C O U N T R I E S O F O R I G I N

    FIG 4.1 - (Italys Exports, 2015)

  • Resources & Avalibility

    Italys natural resources include coal, mercury, zinc, potash, marble, barite, asbestos, pumice, fluorspar, feldspar, pyrite (sulphur), natural gas and crude oil reserves, fish, and arable land (Economy Watch, 2013).

    Specializations

    In Italy, Capri is where Knitwear is specialized. They specialize in design, the choice of materials, logistics, quality control, stock-keeping and trade management (ItalTrade, n.d). Usually, the factory will subcontract the actual production of the garment.

    The production stage has the most specializations including stain removal, sewing, ironing, checking and the final packaging.

    Fairtrade & Ethics

    According to a survey done in October of 2011 which surveyed 17,000 customers in 24 different countries, 89% of Italian consumers say express the highest support for third-party certification when it comes to Fairtrade and ethical products (Globescan, 2011).

    08

  • C O U N T R I E S O F O R I G I N

    Business Climate

    According to the 2011 Index of Economic Freedom (The Heritage Foundation and The Wall Street Journal), Italy is only the 87th freest economy in the world. Italian economy remains burdened by political interference, bureaucracy, corruption, high levels of taxation, a rigid labour market, an ineffective judicial system, a complex regulatory framework and the high cost of conducting business (La Gazzetta Italiana, n.d). This could be a problem when Stella McCartney produces the majority of her knitwear range with Italy. Italys economy is never stable and this could potentially cause businesses and factories to shut down.

    Taxes Fig 4.2 shows a list for a small medium sized business in Italy and their taxation rates in 2013. The U.S Department of States says, Tax revenues for the first 11 months of 2012 were up 13.8 billion, or 3.8 percent, compared to the same period a year earlier, largely due the new real estate tax (U.S Department of State, 2013). This could pose as a threat to the McCartney brand because the levels of taxation are on the rise which may allow for factories working with the brand to raise their prices.

    Availability A large portion of Italys businesses are between the small and medium sized firms. The U.S Department of State states, Italy is fully diversified and dominated by small and medium-sized firms (SMEs), which comprise 99.9 percent of the number of businesses (U.S Department of State, 2013). This is good for the McCartney brand because the factories could potentially be more willing to follow her ethical standards if they know the company will use their production services again. Although there are many businesses in Italy, According to Global Outlook, Italys population has stopped dreaming of entrepreneurship. On the contrary, local Italian business owners believe that slowing down the expansion of new businesses could potentially hurt the countrys GDP and exports (How Challenging is Italys Business Climate, 2013). The McCartney brand could see this as a potential downfall. If more and more Italians are slowing down expansions and the economy is burdened, who will eventually be able to do the production of Stellas products?

  • Import/Export Duties

    The EU is a customs union that provides for free trade among its 28 member states--Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Croatia, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, The Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovak Republic, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, and The United Kingdom (International Trade Administration, 2015). This allows Italy and the UK to trade without taxes, tariffs, or duties.

    10

    FIG 4.2 - (Business Affairs, 2013)

  • C O U N T R I E S O F O R I G I N

    Infrastructure & Transport Methods

    Italy has a modern infrastructure although it does not execute as well as other Western European countries that are similar to size. The country is connected through national roads, expressways, trains, airports, and seaports. The infrastructure is continuously being improved and rebuilt. The Northern regions have intricate infrastructure whereas the southern is widely poor.Roads Provides a highly developed and efficient network of interconnected highways and lesser roads, particularly in northern regions. The main routes at the hub of the road system are Turin-Milan-Venice-Trieste, Milan-Bologna-Florence-Rome, Milan-Genoa, and Rome-Naples (Nations Encyclopaedia, 2015).

    Expressways Italys expressways is approximately 6,460 km which are located more in the northern and central districts. Although is it easy for drivers to link to different parts of Europe through these expressways, the extensive traffic has become an on-going critical issue.

    Trains/Rails The countrys rail system is also highly developed and traverses a distance of 19,394 kilometers (Nations Encyclopaedia, 2015). Although the trains

    are well adored by Italians, the owner company, Ferrovie dello Stato, is in the midst of improving the rail system with high speed trains.

    Airports There are over 130 airports in the country of Italy. The most prevalent airports are in Rome, Venice, Milan, and Turin.

    Seaports Italys seaports fleet consists of over 2000 ships which most can carry over 100 tons. There are ports in Trieste, Genoa, Naples, Taranto, Augusta, Gioia Tauro, and Livorno.

    With Italy having multiple types of transport methods, The Stella McCartney brand has a selection of choices on their transportation of goods. This could be helpful if the company needs express shipping on a repeat order, if their production time was slowed down and needed their inventory as soon as possible, excreta.

  • 12FIG 4.3 - (Italys Pollution, 2015)

    4.3

  • C O U N T R I E S O F O R I G I N

    History

    Portugals textile industry has been a key sector for exports and for employability. 12% of the countrys exports are from the textile and clothing industry which employ over 180,000 workers. In 2008 when Portugal started their financial crisis, the industry fell by 6.5% but thankfully the Government took charge to boost this sector. The federal government of Portugal not only provided financial aid to the local investors but also attracted foreign investments in the sector. The government announced a massive financial package of 850 million Euros to stimulate the domestic textile and clothing industry and encourage exports of textile products. The government has also provided financial incentives to foreign companies for modernization of the textile units in the country. Besides, the government also provides essential help to make credit available to foreign players investing in the textile sector (Invest In EU, 2013).

  • Resources and Availability

    Portugals natural resources include iron ore, copper, zinc, tin, tungsten, silver, gold, uranium, marble, clay, gypsum, and salt (Fact Monster, 2014).

    Specializations

    Portugals specializations include knitted or crocheted clothing and accessories. In 2012, 39% of Portugals totally T&C exports where products in these specializations (ATP, 2013).

    Knitwear exports account for some 50% of the total exports of textile and clothing products, highlighting the leading role the subsector plays in the Portuguese textile and clothing industry (PortugalOffer, 2003).

    Fairtrade & Ethics

    Because of the rapid growth and demand of Fairtrade and ethical products, in 2013 Portugal was added to the mandate of Fairtrade Spain. They have now been renamed Fairtade Iberica. The increasing demand and interest in Fairtrade products in Portugal prompted Fairtrade Spain to investigate forming Fairtrade Ibrica. Even during difficult economic times, consumers in both countries are increasingly interested in the origin of the products they buy, asking for responsible and ethical products (WFTO, 2013). WFTO is now partnered with Equao and Cooperativa de Comrcio Justo in Portugal.

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  • C O U N T R I E S O F O R I G I N

    Business Climate

    According to Making Life Easy for Citizens and Businesses in Portugal by OECD (Organization for Economic Co-Operation and Development), Portugal has a coherent strategy inked closely to strengthening the conditions for economic development and job creation (OECD, 2008). OECD believes there are 4 drivers for simplification of this strategy, one which is creation of a better business climate. Because Portugal ranks low on several economic competitiveness factors, the country decided to improve their business climate to improve companies already in the country, but also new ones. This is an advantage to the Stella McCartney brand because just as the company is trying to be more ethical with everything that they do, Portugal as a country is trying to do the same.

    Taxes Fig 4.4 shows a list for a small medium sized business in Portugal and their taxation rates in 2013. In 2014,

    Portugal made changed their Corporate Income Tax Law from 25% to 23%. They have also changed their State Surcharge from 5% to 7% in 2014.

    Availability Because of Portugals recession that has lasted for almost 40 years, small to medium sized business are being sold or shut down due to the lack of spending. In the wake of the countrys worst recession for almost 40 years, tens of thousands of small businesses have gone to the wall, victims of a collapse in demand as record unemployment climbs towards 19 per cent and tough austerity measures, including a 77 per cent increase in value added tax for restaurants, leave families struggling to get by or afraid to spend (Wise, 2013). This is a downfall for the Stella McCartney brand in the same way it was with Italy. If the factories that the brand works with shut down or even sold off, what will happen to the brands knitwear products that are typically being produced?

  • Import/Export Duties

    The EU is a customs union that provides for free trade among its 28 member states--Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Croatia, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, The Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovak Republic, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, and The United Kingdom (International Trade Administration, 2015). This allows Portugal and the UK to trade without taxes, tariffs, or duties.

    16

    FIG 4.4 - (Paying Taxes In Portugal, 2015)

  • C O U N T R I E S O F O R I G I N

    Infrastructure & Transport Methods

    Portugal is said to have a well developed infrastructure due to them receiving US $24 Billion by European Regional Development Fund between the years of 1987 1998 (Nations Encyclopaedia, 2015). These funds helped the country improve their already existing infrastructure but also by allowing them to develop a modern highway system. Portugal is now connected by national roads, expressways, railways, airports, and sea ports.

    National Roads Portugal, after their generous funding, now has up to 59,110 km of paved national roads.

    Expressways Portugal now has approximately 797 km of expressways throughout their county. This allows locals and transportation companies easier transference after their renovations.

    Railways 2,850 km of railroads now exist within Portugal. Their railroads consist of passenger trains and also freight trains.

    Airports The country of Portugal now was an astonishing 40 different airports located all over the country. They always have their own national airline called TAP.

    Sea Ports Portugal a number of different sea ports in placed such as Aveiro, Funchal, Horta , Leixoes, Lisbon, Porto, Ponta Delgada, Praia da Vitoria, Setubal, and Viana do Castelo.

    In the same aspect as Italy, there are multiple different methods of transportation in Portugal that could help the brand with the transference of goods.

  • 18

  • After an extensive look into Italys background, It is clear why the Stella McCartney band has chosen to work primarily with Italy for their knitwear manufacturing. Having a wool industry that dates back to the 1300s and which boosted in the 1990s, this sector has been an extensive part of Italys history and culture. Their knitwear specilizations in Capri makes it a perfect country for the brands knitwear ranges.

    Italys Fairtrade and ethics also makes the country a great partner for the McCartney brand. As stated above, 89% of Italian customers say they extensive support products with Fairtrade and ethical stamps of approval. This shows how Italy is becoming a major player in ethical fashion.

    Due to the E.U customs union, free trade between the United kingdom and Italy

    allows for lowered costs for the brand. Easy access between the two countries is also an advantage due to Italys infrastructure and transport methods as they have a range of ways to transport the goods from country to country. Collectively, these aspects of Italy make a partnership between the band and the country a rational choice.

  • Partaking in the research of Portugal in a more broad sense, It allows for a better understanding as to why Stella McCartney has chosen this country as another partner for their knitwear manufacturing. Having the clothing and textile industry as a major export and having the Government boost the industry during an economic crisis, it shows that the country of Portugal has a large appreciation to this sector.

    With a rapid growth and demand for Fairtrade and ethical products by their population, and having teamed up with Fairtrade Spain to become Fairtade Iberica, proves that the country has the same values as the Stella McCartney band.

    Just as Italy does, the E.U customs union also benefits Portugal with free trade between Portugal and the United

    Kingdom which allows for the lower cost as well. Since Portugals infrastructure has now been updated and renewed, there is choices of methods of transportation from Portugal to the United Kingdom. Easier access allows for a shorter lead time which is beneficial for the Stella McCartney brand. Having all these aspects that will benefit the Stella McCartney brand, it retains to be a good partner.

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  • C H A P T E R F O U R C R I T I C A L P A T H S

    The following are three critical paths that will follow three different Stella McCartney knitwear products from their point of order to the companies warehouse.

    1. Crew Neck Jumper

    2. Asymmetric Jumper

    3. Tulip Dress

  • O N E

    22

    Style : Crew Neck JumperColour : Ultra MarineFit : True to size/Regular FitCountry of Origin : Italy

    Purchase Order to Manufacturer

    (Week 0)

    Manufacturer Orders Fabric(Week 1)

    Cut & Stich(Week 12-14)

    Consolidate Billing of Materials(Week 11)

    Fabric Delivery(Week 10)

    Dye and Finish Fabric(Week 8-9)

    Weave Fabric(Week 6-7)

    Deliver Yarn to Designated Mill(Week 5)

    Spin Yarn(Week 3-4)

    Fabric Supplier Orders Yarn(Week 2)

    Shipping(Weeks 15-16)

    Sealing Samples(Week 0-9)

    Quality Control of Bulk Materials

    (Week 9-11)

    Production Seals(Week 12)

    Final Inspection(Week 14)

    Clear Customs(Week 16)

    Recieve in S.M Warehouse(Week 17)

    Warehouse Audit(Week 17)

  • T W O

    Style : Asymmetric JumperColour : Bubble GumFit : True to size/Regular FitCountry of Origin : Italy

    Purchase Order to Manufacturer

    (Week 0)

    Manufacturer Orders Fabric(Week 1)

    Cut & Stich(Week 12-14)

    Consolidate Billing of Materials(Week 11)

    Fabric Delivery(Week 10)

    Dye and Finish Fabric(Week 8-9)

    Weave Fabric(Week 6-7)

    Deliver Yarn to Designated Mill(Week 5)

    Spin Yarn(Week 3-4)

    Fabric Supplier Orders Yarn(Week 2)

    Shipping(Weeks 15-16)

    Sealing Samples(Week 0-9)

    Quality Control of Bulk Materials

    (Week 9-11)

    Production Seals(Week 12)

    Final Inspection(Week 14)

    Clear Customs(Week 17)

    Recieve in S.M Warehouse(Week 18)

    Warehouse Audit(Week 18)

  • T H R E E

    24

    Style : Tulip JumperColour : BlackFit : True to size/Regular FitCountry of Origin : Portugal

    Purchase Order to Manufacturer

    (Week 0)

    Manufacturer Orders Fabric(Week 1)

    Cut & Stich + Applique(Week 12-14)

    Consolidate Billing of Materials(Week 11)

    Fabric Delivery(Week 10)

    Dye and Finish Fabric(Week 8-9)

    Weave Fabric(Week 6-7)

    Deliver Yarn to Designated Mill(Week 5)

    Spin Yarn(Week 3-4)

    Fabric Supplier Orders Yarn(Week 2)

    Shipping(Weeks 15-16)

    Sealing Samples(Week 0-9)

    Quality Control of Bulk Materials

    (Week 9-11)

    Production Seals(Week 12)

    Final Inspection(Week 14)

    Clear Customs(Week 17)

    Recieve in S.M Warehouse(Week 18)

    Warehouse Audit(Week 18)

  • C H A P T E R F I V EC O N C L U S I O N

    After researching further into the Stella McCartney brand and how the company sources and produces products based on their sustainable and ethic brand identity, there are many positive as well as many negative aspects. Outlining these positives and negatives will further explore the company and will allow for recommendations on how to expand the company and further themselves in the sustainable and ethical path they are venturing on.

    Positives

    Sustainability Summaries The sustainability summaries that the company produces each year really proves to their consumers that the brand is doing their best to follow their sustainably and ethical standards. Unlike many other brands, McCartney is trying to be more transparent in her business. By showing consumers what the brand plans to do and then updating them when they have completed the tasks really emphasises to consumers that the brand is realistic in their plans and tries their best to make their company more and more ethical and sustainable.

  • Wool Usage As already stated, Stella McCartney uses wool from her own farms to produce her knitwear garments. The brand has also team up with OVIS XXI which allows them to only use sustainable and cruelty free wool. This wool has been specially produced for new and innovative sustainability standards. The sheep that produce the sustainable wool is from Patagonia in Argentina. This is a positive for the McCartney brand as this further proves to all consumers that the brand is trying to be more transparent and that their being true to their brand identity. This also gives consumers a motive to purchase the products knowing that the wool is of high sustainability and is ethically sourced from their initiative with OVIS XXI.

    Technology & Innovation As seen in Appendix C, the brand has a very high priority to be innovative and technologically savvy when it comes to producing new products. The company teams up with multiple different countries and initiatives to provide more ethical fashions to their consumers. These products are not only being ethically made, but the company has devised some of their products to be recyclable and decomposable when the consumer is through with using the product. These added positives allow for the brand to know that theyve made a difference when they have produced the product, but also when the product gets to the end stage of its lifecycle. Italy Using Italy as one of the companys main countries of origin for knitwear is beneficial knowing that they have a long history and specialization in this sector. The country also has over 80% of consumers who show praise to brands that are sustainable and ethical in all

    their practices. Import and export duties are an added bonus for the brand due to the customs union that provides free trade with the United Kingdom. Italys infrastructure and transportation methods are vast and are currently and continuously being updated which allows for the brand to choose their method of transportation that suits their needs.

    Portugal Using Portugal as another country of origin for the brands knitwear is also beneficial knowing that the knitwear industry is key to the country and that the Government spends money trying to keep this sector of the workforce alive even through tough times such as their recession. Even in economic hardships, the countrys consumers are always looking for Fairtrade and ethical products. This is a positive for the McCartney brand. Working with countries that share the same views as brand can make your brand identity stronger. Portugal also has a specialization in knitwear which accumulated to 50% of their exports in 2014. Portugal is also included in the free trade EU customs which means trading between Portugal and the United Kingdom is free. The countries infrastructure, just like Italy, has recently been updated which allows the brand to have their choice of transportation as well.

    26

  • Negatives

    Technology & Innovation Although Stella McCartney has made plenty of innovations in her collections, she has yet to provide any alternatives to her knitwear sector. What happens to the clothing after the consumer is done with it? Is it sent to landfill? Is there a more sustainable way that the brand can be involved with?

    Italy Although Italy does have positive aspects when working with the brand, there are also some negatives. Italy`s economy has been burdened in recent years. With the economy doing poorly and the taxation rates inflating (as previously discussed), this could cause factories to either charge a higher price which would hurt the Stella McCartney brand or potentially even close their business doors which would ever further hurt Stella McCartney as Italy is her country of choice for production for her knitwear range.

    Portugal While Italy is McCartneys country of choice, a portion of the

    knitwear is still produced in Portugal and there are negative aspects with this country as well. Portugal has been in a recession for almost 40 years. The Government in the past has spent money keeping knitwear factories in business because of their high export rates, but if the recession continues and the Government can no long afford to help these factories, Stella McCartney could potentially lose profits.

    Infrastructure & Transportation Having Italys and Portugals newly updated infrastructure and transportation methods as a positive for the Stella McCartney brand, it could also be seen as a negative. Although having multiple ways of transportation to suit the needs of the brand, none of the methods are very environmentally friendly. As the brand grows more and more sustainable, the company should take a look into this issue and find ways that allow for transportation to happen, but that would less affect their ecological footprint.

    C O N C L U S I O N

  • Recommandations

    Technology & Innovation Since the brand has not been able to be innovative with their knitwear range, this recommendation is for the company to start using flax and hemp as fibers. Both of these fibers are considered Bast fibers which are soft, fine, flexible, can grow in different climate zones, and they recycle the earths carbon dioxide (The Textile Institute, 2005). These fibers are also biodegrable which allows for the clothing to be broken down in compost rather than being transported to a landfill site.

    Flax: Is the oldest fiber in the world and in grown in countries such as China, Egypt, and France. This fiber is typically used for woven knitted fabrics and can be blended with other materials such as wool and cotton.

    Hemp: Hemp is grown in countries such as China, Europe, and North America. There are 3 types of hemp that can be used but southern hemp is of highest quality and has a very low yield of seeds. Hemp can also be blended with other materials such as cotton or wool. Infrastructure & Transportation The transportation sector is hard when it comes to finding more sustainable and environmentally friendly alternatives. 9% of the worlds greenhouse gas emission comes from service and freight vehicles

    (Conserve Energy Future, 2015). Biodiesel is an alternative to traditional gas will allow for this percentage to decrease. A recommendation to the Stella McCartney brand would be to use fright vehicles that switched to biodiesel. Although this is not a huge change for the brand, this could help towards their overall goal of being a more sustainable company.

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  • C O N C L U S I O N

    The Stella McCartney brand is always committed to being sustainable and ethical in every way they can. The company is constantly updating and changing their ways to better suit their brand identity. Although the company is not perfect, they are well on their way to reaching their goal. There are positives and negatives within their business, but they are very active in changing and becoming more sustainable. As designer Stella McCartney says,

    Everyone can do simple things to

    make a difference, and every little bit really does count

    (Stella McCartney, 2015).

  • 30

  • I M A G E L I S TC I T A T I O N S

    Cover Photo - Williams, H. (2014). Stella McCartney collaborates with the Internets favourite new artist. Available: http://www.buro247.com/me/culture/news/stella-mccartney-petra-cortright.html. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Fig 1.1 - FashionMention. (2014). adidas by Stella McCartney Fall Winter 2014 Collection. Available: http://www.fashionmention.com/adidas-stella-mccartney-fall-winter-2014-collection/. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Fig 1.2 - Phelps, N. (2015). Stella McCartney Pre-Fall. Available: http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2015/stella-mccartney. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Chapter 1

    Fig 2.1 - Sunray Studio. (2014). Stella McCartney. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/246009198370616397/. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Chapter 2

    Fig 3.1 - Hattingh, A. (2008). From Design Ramp to Store. Available: http://www.ifashion.co.za/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=888&Itemid=113. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Fig 3.2 McCartney, S. (2012). Winter 2012 Inspiration. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/279152876873962334/. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Chapter 3

    Fig 4.1 - Anon. (2015). Italys Exports. Available: http://www.tradingeconomics.com/italy/exports. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Fig 4.2 - BUREAU OF ECONOMIC AND BUSINESS AFFAIRS. (2013). 2013 Investment Climate Statement - Italy. Available: http://www.state.gov/e/eb/rls/othr/ics/2013/204664.htm. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Fig 4.3 - Anon. (2015). Pollution in Italy. Available: http://www.numbeo.com/pollution/country_result.jsp?country=Italy. Last accessed March 10th.

    Fig 4.4 Anon. (2015). Paying Taxes In Portugal. Available: http://www.doingbusiness.org/data/exploreeconomies/portugal/paying-taxes. Last accessed April 26 2015..

  • Fig 4.5 Anon. (2015). Taste of Italy. Available: http://www.northcrestclub.com/wp/social-events/taste-of-italy/. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Fig 4.6 - Anon. (n.d). Portugal Flag. Available: http://imagesdetails.com/i/portugal-flag/5. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Chapter 4

    Fig 5.1 - McCartney, S. (2015). Stellas Stores. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/279152876878813073/. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Chapter 5

    Fig 6.1 - McCartney, S. (2013). Spring Florals. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/279152876874721858/. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Fig 6.2 - McCartney, S. (2013). Spring Florals. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/279152876874721832/. Last accessed April 26 2015.

    Fig 6.3 - Miel, M. (2014). Pure Mode. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/391179917603975000/. Last accessed April 26 2015.

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  • B I B L I O G R A P H YC I T A T I O N S

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    Anon. (n.d). Stella McCartney Timeline. Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/person/stella-mccartney. Last accessed Feb 16th.

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    Anon. (2000). Italy - Infrastructure, power, and communications. Available: http://www.nationsencyclopedia.com/economies/Europe/Italy-INFRASTRUCTURE-POWER-AND-COMMUNICATIONS.html. Last accessed Feb 17th.

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  • Anon. (2015). Overseas Business Risk - Portugal. Available: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/overseas-business-risk-portugal/overseas-business-risk-portugal#political-and-economic. Last accessed March 24th.

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  • Marques, P. (2014). An evaluation of the social and employment aspects and challenges in Portugal. Social Targets. 1 (1), 6-7.

    Morley-Cartner, J. (2014). The many faces of Stella McCartney.Available: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2014/mar/06/-sp-stella-mccartney-interview. Last accessed Feb 16th.

    Mastroianni, R. (2013). Italys Political Crisis. Available: http://www.isn.ethz.ch/Digital-Library/Articles/Detail/?id=164918. Last accessed March 10th.

    Office Of Textiles And Apparel. (n.d). Market Reports/Tariffs.Available: http://web.ita.doc.gov/tacgi/OverSeasNew.nsf/alldata/Italy#Tariffs. Last accessed Feb 17th.

    Rolando, F. (2013). PORTUGAL, NEW PRODUCTION PARADISE.Available: http://www.pirouetteblog.com/business/portugal-new-production-paradise/. Last accessed Feb 16th.

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    Weissmann, J. (2011). 4 Reasons Why Italys Economy Is Such a Disaster. Available: http://www.theatlantic.com/business/archive/2011/11/4-reasons-why-italys-economy-is-such-a-disaster/248238/. Last accessed March 4th.

    Whitehead, T. (2013). Stella McCartney, Whistles and Topshop join halt on angora use. Available: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG10520002/Stella-McCartney-Whistles-and-Topshop-join-halt-on-angora-use.html. Last accessed Feb 16th.

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  • A P P E N D I XA

  • B40

  • CEco Friendly Eyewear These products are made from raw material and castor-oil seeds and added citric acid. 50% of these products are designed from renewable and natural resources.

    Biodegradable Soles These soles have been used since McCartneys Autumn 2010 collection. They are made from APINAT which is a bioplastic. When placed in mature compost, they will degrade with time.

    Faux Leather - Introduced in Autumn 2013, This new faux leather is coated with 50% vegetable oil allows less petroleum use in these products. It is also a renewable natural resource.

    Lingerie All hardware in these products are made from recyclable materials. Gussets are made from organic cotton. Its a wearable everyday range, incorporating cutting-edge technology to create one of the thinnest, lightest and most invisible collections in the world (McCartney, 2015).

    Noemi Tote Produced in Kenya with the help from the International Trade Centers Ethical Fashion Program (ITC), This tote helps provide work to support sustainable livelihoods in disadvantaged communities in Africa (McCartney, 2015).

    Adidas By Stella McCartney The materials must come from a sustainable source, be produced without dangerous chemicals, and be manufactured under the highest workplace standards with waste and energy management systems. All Adidas by Stella McCartney products are PVC free (McCartney, 2015).

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