Steel Patinas and Finishes - eBook

Copyright 2010-11, Bill Worden, Steel F/X , LLC, All Rights Reserved. Distribution Prohibited. ®

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Steel Patinas & FinishesSteel Patinas & Finishesby Bill Worden, Steel F/X®, LLC

A Comprehensive Guide to Steel Patinas, Coloring andSpecial Effects.

Products, Tips, Tools, Tricks & Techniques That Will Elevate Your Work To a Higher Level and Lead To Increased Profits & Customer Satisfaction.

Volume I

January, 2011Revised June 2012

http://www.steelf-x.com/ - Steel F/X® Main Website

www.steelfxpatinas.com/supplies.html - To Order Products, Patinas & Supplies.

1.800.710.1273


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http://www.steelf-x.com/

http://www.steelfxpatinas.com/supplies.html

Steel Patinas & Finishes

Table of Contents1. Safety, Warnings & Common Sense!

2. Proper Storage of Chemicals & Solutions

3. Work-Station Organization

4. Required Supplies, Equipment & Tools

5. Hot-Rolled vs. Cold-Rolled

6. Easy Dross Removal

7. Steel Surface Preparation

8. Sequencing & Timing of Patinas


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DisclaimerThe information contained in this book is from the experience of the author. It is hisopinion that you can experience the same, similar or better results but should not be considered a guarantee of any sort.

The results of the products mentioned in this book are that of experience by the author and may vary depending on your level of experience, practice, patience, artistic abilities & persistence.

Restriction of Liability

The author does not know the buyer, nor the buyer’s expertise, motivation, dedication, or ability to follow through on the concepts & methodology contained herein.

The author makes no claims, promises or guarantees that you will achieve your goals, hopes, dreams, or wishes by adhering to the suggestions or techniques mentioned within this book or with the products, tools & techniques used by the author.

No warranty of any kind, implied, expressed, or statutory, including but not limited to the warranties of non-infringement of third party rights, title, merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose and freedom from computer virus, is given with respect to the contents of this book or its hyperlinks to other Internet resources.

Ownership

Contents of this book are written by the author and are copyrighted. You may print the contents for your own personal use, but source/s must be shown and author must maintain credit. Electronic Sharing of this book is prohibited. Failure to comply is punishable by applicable law.


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INTRODUCTIONThe goal of this book is to share the knowledge and experience of metal-finishing

that I've gained over the past 35 plus years. In 1972, before many of you were born, I was introduced to silversmithing and jewelry-making. The processes, chemicals & substances used in that field for polishing and finishing was my first foray into coloring metal.

Some years elapsed before I got into making custom bits and spurs, many that were inlaid or overlaid with silver embellishments. That was in the mid-90's and I purchased a CNC plasma-cutting system to cut out pieces and parts for the bits and spurs.

By the time I got my Plasma-cutting System installed, I became so enamored (& side-tracked) with metal-art that I never cut out a single spur band or cheek-piece! So, from2006 til the present, I have cut signs, silhouettes and architectural elements and done my best to come up with methods of polishing, staining, and applying patinas & clear-coats to my work. I felt from the very start that powder-coating, although it has it's place, was a little too ordinary. I wanted my work to stand out among the crowd. And, it's my hope that you will pick up some valuable tips, tricks & tidbits within this book that will make YOUR work stand out, increase your customer's selections and ultimately make you more profit per piece than you could make otherwise.

I will do my best in this book to put myself right beside you, in essence explain things as if I were working right along side you at your shop, backyard, garage or wherever you might be producing your own 'works of art'.

If you have questions, please feel free to call me for some personal attention or Q & A.

Here's my contact information:

Bill WordenSteel F/X®www.steelfxpatinas.com/supplies.html

[email protected]: 435.668.7244Fax: 435.251.8111


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mailto:[email protected]

http://www.steelfxpatinas.com/supplies.html

Now, Let's get Started!

CHAPTER ONE

SAFETY, WARNINGS & COMMON-SENSE

Always Wear Rubber or Nitrile Elbow-Length Gloves WhenWorking With Patina Solutions or Acids of Any Kind.

Always Wear a Respirator That is OSHA/NIOSH Approved for Organic Vapors. I use either a NORTH™ or 3M™ Half-Mask with replaceable “pancake cartridges”. Since I wear glasses, I use a NORTH™ or 3M™ Full-Face Mask when spraying Clear-Coatings.

Always Wear Approved Eye Protection. Either Safety Glasses or Goggles OVER your Prescription Eye-wear. I've been to the ER with a piece of steel in my left eye. No fun at all.


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SAFETY, WARNINGS & COMMON-SENSE

Always Wear Splash-Protection Headgear When Transferring Patina Solutions, Acidic Liquids or any other Caustic, Corrosive or Otherwise Dangerous Liquids. Pretty handy when grinding, too.

Always Wear Hearing Protection with a minimum 25db rating, when Grinding or Polishing Metal. In my methods of applying patinas, high pressure (150+p.s.i.)Clean, Dry Shop-Air is a MUST! Unless you want to go deaf, the hearing protectors are a real necessity when Force-Drying your steel between patina steps!


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CHAPTER TWO

PROPER HANDLING & STORAGE OF CHEMICALS AND

SOLUTIONSThis chapter will address the liquid chemicals, acids, patinas and paints that I use in

my shop. It may or may not cover all the products that you have in your particular workspace. Please read all labels, MSDS, (Manufacturer's Safety Data Sheets), and follow the recommendations by each respective manufacturer.

As for the Steel F/X® Patina Liquid Solutions that I have blended and use in my shop, it is important to keep them in the original, properly labeled containers when not in use.

It is, by all means, okay to transfer them into a clean plastic spray-bottle or drip-bottle, but make sure that you label those smaller bottles with the contents. Never use the same spray-bottle to add a different solution to, as there is always some leftover solution in the pick-up tube or spray head.

The Liquid Solutions that I use and recommend are all photo-sensitive, so you should store them in a cool, dry place when not in use. Keep them in a spot where they are not subject to freezing, also. If you utilize chemicals from another source, please follow their recommendations, as mine might not be applicable.

It almost goes without saying...Keep Away From Pets, Children & Unauthorized People!

When transferring a Patina Solution to a smaller quart-sized spray-bottle, please use a clean, plastic funnel & do not overfill. The acids that make up the 'recipe' of each patina are intrinsically, inherently dangerous when they are ingested, inhaled or splashed on your skin. They're not as dangerous or potent as battery-acid, but you still need to treat them with respect & caution.


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Never Mix Two Or More Solutions Together! Never Mix Two Or More Solutions Together!

CHAPTER THREEWORK STATION ORGANIZATION

Organizing and maintaining your work area is of course a matter of personal preference. There are certain basics though, that should be considered. I know from personal experience that when all my chemicals, tools, air, water and bench are organized , I turn out better work. When I let myself get a little unorganized, I usually forget something that causes me to have to start over.

Due to the very nature of the metal-finishing process, considering the liquids involved, I'd highly recommend that your work station be located outdoors. Full-sun or shade, it doesn't really matter, but located in an area that is not subject to high winds.

My personal preference for a work table is nothing fancy. It is a simple, wood-topped workbench that sits just outside my shop door. See photo below.

This Patina Bench was built by D. Jones & the photo was submitted to me recently.


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CHAPTER FOURREQUIRED SUPPLIES, EQUIPMENT & TOOLS

A height of 28” - 34” is perfect for me, but you might find a height that suits your situation better. I don't recommend a steel topped table for a couple of reasons.

1) You will be placing your steel art in a near-vertical position & the steel-on-steel is a little slick, especially when wet.

2) Mild Steel, of course, will rust & you will be using high-pressure air & lots of water in the neutralizing & rinsing stages. You don't want to blow any contaminants from the work-bench onto your art piece.

In the next chapter we'll discuss the tools and provisions that you will need to get started. Please read all the way through the book as it contains tips & tricks that you may miss if you get started too quickly. I don't want you to waste chemicals, steel or your time, so try to glean all the tidbits of information that you can before you actually start applying the patinas to your work.


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CHAPTER FOUR

REQUIRED SUPPLIES, EQUIPMENT & TOOLSNow, we're going to make sure we have all the necessary supplies, tools and

equipment to fully set up your work station for applying patinas.

First, you will need a garden hose & spray-nozzle. Trust me on this: don't use one of those fancy self-coiling hoses. And, don't burden yourself with a 5/8” or 3/4” Contractor's Hose that's 100' ft. long and takes two men & a boy to move around.

The Best Hose for what you're going to be doing is a 15' – 25,' 1/2” hose, like the ones they use on R.V.'s. They're light, relatively kink-free & won't tangle you up like a cow in a wire fence.

Spray heads come in a bazillion different configurations, too. Notice the one on the left picture. It's my favorite. Tip: Keep a spare or two on hand. Believe me, you'll be glad you did. It has many spray settings, but has two that I use the most: 'Shower' & 'Mist'. The sprayer in the right picture will ruin your work, guaranteed! Don't waste your time with this type of sprayer.

The type of process that we'll be learning here is 100% Spray Method. Immersion is an option that you're certainly welcome to experiment with, but I've tried it & don't like it. In fact, I wouldn't even recommend it considering the fact that it sucks. It is such a waste of space, container sizes that are never quite right, contaminated solutions, reclaiming nightmare of straining & re-bottling left-over solution, etc., etc. I'm not a fan of it, if you haven't noticed.

Let's talk about your Air Supply. You've got your water situation covered, now let's


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discuss the importance of Clean, Dry, Oil-Free Shop Air. You will need 25' – 50' of 1/4” Air Hose with a High Quality Nozzle. If you have an automatic Oiler coming off your air compressor, get rid of it. You will need a minimum of 125 psi Air, at the nozzle. (I set my regulator at 160 psi.) I'd also encourage you to have a compressor that puts out at least 20 cfm.

CHAPTER FOUR

REQUIRED SUPPLIES, EQUIPMENT & TOOLS

Not Recommended! Very Good Nozzle Best Nozzle

Both types of these recommended nozzles should be available at www.gemplers.com and probably other sources as well.

The one on the right is made by Guard-air™ & is my favorite by far! They are available in several different lengths, but you want the shortest one possible for the Patina Work-Station. They use Vortex Design which accelerates the air-flow. They're the only ones I'll use.

Not Recommended! Highly Recommended!


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http://www.gemplers.com/

Note: Air Supply Line From Compressor Can Be 3/8” or 1/2” but I highly recommend 1/4” hose at your work-station.

CHAPTER FOUR


This is the type of Air Filter/Water Separator/Regulator that I use. One on the

outlet of my Air Compressor and one where my work-bench, 1/4” Air Line & Nozzle are located. The photo above/right shows the Quick-Connect Compression Fittings & Hose that I use in my shop. Makes it really easy to add lines & fittings as your needs change.

I would highly recommend a Pressure-Regulator/Water Separator/Air Filter mounted to your Air Compressor & another one on the outside of your shop, where you connect your hose, in case you need to increase or decrease your air pressure.


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CHAPTER FOUR


Selecting The Proper Air Preparation Unit

Air Preparation units are key elements in a compressed air line. Clean, regulated, and/or lubricated compressed air is essential in all industries and applications. Air preparation units prolong the life of tools, machinery, pneumatic controls, pneumatic valves, etc., reducing maintenance and downtime costs. Each application should be carefully reviewed; failure to do so can cause equipment damage or injury. The following are common components of air preparation units.

Filter – An air preparation unit designed to remove harmful contaminates such as pipe scale, rust, and other airborne contaminates from a compressed air line. Such contaminates can build up on internal surfaces which shorten the life of pneumatic devices

Coalescing Filter – An air preparation unit designed to remove liquid or oil aerosols and sub micron particles from a compressed air line.

Regulator – An air preparation unit designed to regulate compressed air. They provide pressure regulation for the various requirements of pneumatics devices and applications. The variety of sizes and designs increase accuracy for the particular application.

Filter/Regulator – An air preparation unit that combines the features and benefits of a filter and regulator in one unit. Commonly called a “Piggyback”, this unit is an excellent space saving unit for applications were space is limited.


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CHAPTER FOUR

REQUIRED SUPPLIES, EQUIPMENT & TOOLSGreat, now we've got our bench, water supply & air supply ready to use.

The next thing we'll need is Quart-sized Spray-bottles and the Patina Solutions.The Spray-bottles HAVE to be plastic (HDPE) High-Density Polyethylene or Polyethylene Terephthalate (P.E.T.) Do not use glass or metal spray-bottles!

Ultra-High Quality Chemical Resistant Spray-bottles, Funnels, Organic Vapor Respirators, Tack Rags, etc. will be available on the Steel FX Website @ http://www.steelf-x.com/Supplies.html or call me @ 1.800.710.1273

ALWAYS USE SPLASH-RESISTANT FUNNEL WHEN TRANSFERRING LIQUID PATINA SOLUTION FROM GALLON BOTTLE TO SPRAY-BOTTLES OR DRIP-BOTTLES!! WEAR RUBBER, LATEX


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http://www.steelf-x.com/Supplies.html

OR NITRILE GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION IN THE FORM OF GOGGLES OR FACE SHIELD!We'll discuss the use of these different types of applicator bottles on the next page.TIP: Always label your Applicator Bottles with a Permanent Marker as to the contents & don't ever use it for anything else, even if you've rinsed it out & think it's clean. It's not!

Chapter 5Hot-Rolled vs. Cold-Rolled

In this short chapter we'll discuss the Pros & Cons of readily available A36 Mild Steel sheet & plate and it's properties only as it pertains to Patina Finishing.

Hot-Rolled Steel: PROS CONS

Relatively Inexpensive Mill-Scale Removal Is a MUST!Readily Available Heavier Dross (Usually)

Shorter Consumable Life

Cold-Rolled Steel:PROS CONS

Saves Time & $$ on Clean-Up More Costly Than H.R. Or P&OLonger Consumable LifeMuch Easier to PolishLess Dross than H.R.

P & OPickled & Oiled:

PROS CONS Less Expensive than C.R. Oil Removal & Surface PreparationLess Dross than H.R. More Costly Than H.R.


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Chapter SixEasy Dross Removal

Let's assume that you've been using your Plasma-cutting System for some time and have all the settings and cut parameters pretty much dialed-in. When I first started plasma-cutting, I needed a 30 lb. Jack-Hammer to get rid of the dross! Obviously, I didn't have all my settings right & really struggled with the clean-up.

Even when your cut parameters are optimum, and especially if you're cutting Hot-Rolled steel, there's bound to be some necessary dross removal. I truly believe I've tried every grinder wheel on the market. Some of 'em more than once! Then, I finally discovered a combination that is so dang quick, my clean-up time is next-to-nothing!

Here's what I use in my shop, and until something even better comes along, I'll continue to use! I use a Makita™ 4-inch Grinder with a Norton™ AVOS™ Backup Pad & a Norton™ 36-Grit Twist-On Disc. See Photos Below. AVOS is an acronym for: Allows Visibility Over Surface. You can actually see THROUGH the disc as it's working! Amazing!

Makita™ 4” Grinder Norton™AVOS™ Backup Pad Norton™AVOS™ Discs.

Insert video link here:

WARNING: Please, please wear Safety Glasses and/or Goggles or Full-Face Shield when using! This system will spit out chunks of dross like little high-velocity shrapnel. I wear a leather apron as well. You don't have to 'bear down' with a lot of pressure...let the abrasive do the work. I think you'll be astonished at how well it works for dross removal.


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If you are using primarily H.R. (Hot-Rolled) Steel, there is another little trick I'd like to share with you.

Disclaimer: Use the following method with extreme care and use every recommended safety precaution mentioned earlier in this book. Rubber Boots, Splash-Protection, Eye-Protection, Organic Vapor Respiratory Protection, Rubber Gloves.

Warning: When mixing ANY Acid with Water, ALWAYS remember the AAA RULE!! AAA = ALWAYS ADD ACID!

NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID. THE RESULTING SPLASH POTENTIAL IS MUCH HIGHER THAN ADDING ACID TO WATER.

Okay, with that said, here's the trick that only took me 5 years to figure out! Some of you may already know it, but for those of you that don't, it's a real time saver.

In a Polyethylene Tub, sized large enough to hold your piece or pieces of plasma-cut hot-rolled steel, mix up a 1:1 (50/50) Solution of Muriatic Acid and Clean Tap Water. No need to stir, mix or play in it. Just mix it together, adding the acid after the water has been put in. Put in enough that it completely covers the steel. I've had 20 or more pieces in this tub, stacked on top of each other, many times. I usually put in 8-12 gallons of Muriatic Acid & at least that much water. As evaporation takes place, which is mostly water, not acid, just add more water. Depending on the amount of dross, you may want to leave your pieces submerged for 24 hrs. or more.

This is a photo of the tub I use. It is a 250 Gallon Tub made by Rubbermaid™


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Do Not Use A Metal Tub! And, here's a TIP: Keep your Acid Tub at least 50' or more from any tools or anything else made of steel that you don't want ruined! The vapors, while not terribly potent, will rust everything in sight! Keep a plastic or wood cover on it when not in use and for Goodness Sakes, keep all children and pets away from it.

Muriatic Acid is not as scary or caustic as Sulfuric Acid (Battery-acid), it's used to clean alkali & phosphorous deposits off concrete surfaces, swimming pools, etc., and you can buy it at any hardware store for about $7 a gallon. But, it's still very dangerous, especially if you're careless.

Now, you can carefully immerse your piece or pieces into the tank, complete with the dross. It won't matter if the dross side is down or up, just make sure it's completely submerged. Depending on the severity or amount of dross, you may have to leave it in the tank for 12-24 hrs.

When you remove the piece of steel, be ready with the garden hose & nozzle set on “Shower” mode and completely rinse BOTH sides of the piece. Now, it's imperative that you move the piece to your work-bench and force-dry the piece with your shop air. You'll notice now that when blasting the dross side of the piece with your air nozzle, most of the dross will just blow right off. Dang, I wished I would've learned this about 5 years ago!

If you don't force-dry it right away, the piece will form “flash-rust”, which if left to air-dry for a day or two, especially in the summer, will be harder to polish/sand off than the original mill-scale!

MILL-SCALE REMOVAL

Your Acid-Bath will work extremely well for removing ALL mill-scale, too.Depending on the strength or ratio of your mixture, anywhere from 15 minutes to several hours & all traces of mill-scale will be removed. It's important though, to remove your piece/s from the Acid-Bath and rinse forcefully with water to flush all the blackish residue off. Then, it's also very critical to force-dry with shop air to prevent any rusting, which can be almost as hard to remove with abrasives as the mill-scale would have been.


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Chapter SevenSteel Surface Preparation

We're almost ready to apply Patina to your first piece. But, there's one more critical step to accomplish. We've got to get the front side of the steel polished out & super-clean! Don't worry, it's not that hard. If your piece is 3' wide & 2' tall, it's gonna take us about 5 minutes or less. And, the better the polish, the brighter the polish, the better the Patina will look.

If your steel surface is matted or dull, the Copper F/X™, which is the foundation for almost all the other patinas, will be pinkish..kind of salmony pink. And, in some cases, that may be the effect your are after.

But, let's say we want a bright, shiny, new-penny copper look on the piece of art.That's what we're going to prepare for right now.

Clamp your piece to your favorite work-bench or fab-table, gear up with the proper PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), grab a hold of your 4” grinder & put a Norton™ Flap Disc on it. If the steel is Cold-Rolled, go right for the 120 grit disc. See photos below.

4” - 4-1/2” Grinder & 120-Grit Flap Disc. Photos NOT TO SCALE


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Examples of Polished Steel ~ Now Ready for Patina


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Chapter EightSequencing & Timing of Patinas

Copper F/X™

Let's say we want to give our piece a bright copper-plated finish. We have the piece of steel polished and placed in a near-vertical position on the work-bench. The first thing we'll do is spray the piece with the garden hose nozzle, set on “Shower”. This removes any grinding or polishing dust from the surface.

We don't want the piece dripping wet, setting in a puddle of water, so gently blow off all excess water with you air nozzle, leaving the surface of the steel wet.

Now, with your quart sprayer, filled with Copper F/X™, quickly and evenly spray the solution onto the steel, staying away from the surface about 6-8”. The Copper Plating is instantaneous. No need to go back over any area that you've already sprayed withCopper FX.

Immediately rinse with water. Rinse well, with the shower head and rinse both sides to avoid any further etching on the back side of your piece.

Now, it is important to quickly force-dry the piece with shop air, so no flash-rust will start to form on top of the copper-plating.

If we're not going to add darkening, bronzing effects with the Pewter F/X™ or flame-heated effects with Torch F/X™, your piece is ready for thorough drying, tack-ragging & clear-coating.


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If your work is to be just copper-plated, then the following information is relatively immaterial. But, if we're going to add some more color, in the form of bronzes, golden-browns, reds, blues & blacks, this chapter will explain the sequencing.

BRONZING: (Using Pewter F/X™ on TOP of Copper F/X™)

As shown in the photos above, darker bronze highlights have been added to the copper-plating. This is very easy to achieve. As soon as you've neutralized (rinsed) the Copper F/X™, blow off any excess water, (it's okay if the surface is still wet) and spray, drip or dribble the Pewter F/X™ into small areas at a time. You won't flood the whole piece with the Pewter F/X™, just work in areas that you want to darken. You'll see almost immediate results and you need to be ready to neutralize (rinse) when the level of bronzing is to your liking.

It's far better to rinse too soon than to wait too long & have the bronzing too dark. You can always “layer” (add more solution) to darken the desired areas in steps or stages.When you get the level of darkening or bronzing that you like, rinse, rinse, rinse. You want to rinse BOTH sides of your work & immediately force-dry with clean, dry shop air.

NOTE: Do NOT use a heat-gun to force-dry your work! The heat will inevitably darken the tone & hue of the patina that you've just applied. And, depending on the quality of your shop air and whether or not your air compressor is equipped with a dryer and/or cooler, even the shop air can get pretty warm. That's still far better than a 1250 degree heat gun. Heat is the enemy here because of the flash-rust & darkening that will occur.

Chapter EightCopyright 2010-11, Bill Worden, Steel F/X , LLC, All Rights Reserved. Distribution Prohibited. ®

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Sequencing & Timing of Patinas TORCH F/X™:

(Torch F/X™ Over Copper F/X™)

As shown in the photo above, Torch F/X™ has been applied in specific areas OVER the base patina, which of course is Copper F/X™. Those are the only two patinas used in the above photo.

Although the photograph shows primarily a 'flame-blue' color, the initial reaction of the Torch F/X™ will be reds, quickly turning to varying shades of blue.

It is VERY important to apply, either by spray-bottle or drip-bottle, very gingerly.You can actually “wash away” the copper-plating to reveal your underlying steel if you spray or apply to vigorously. A very gentle spray in a very small area to start is the preferred method. It won't take long at all to 'get a feel' for the proper amount & duration of time needed to get the effect that you want. It will take a little bit of trial & error, maybe even a few “do-overs” before you find the technique & finesse that you are most comfortable using.

Again, when the color you want is achieved, rinse well (neutralize) and force-dry your piece. If you let it air-dry, it will darken, flash-rust, change colors & be ruined. The whole key to patina application with acid-based solutions is being organized, working quickly, rinsing & drying in an expedient method. Then, after complete surface drying is achieved, your piece will be ready for sealing and/or clear-coating.


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Sequencing & Timing of Patinas

BLACK F/X™(Black F/X™ Over Copper F/X™)

As shown in the photo above, the darker 'mottling' or spots are done withBlack F/X™. Black F/X™ is one solution that you will use very, very sparingly. It will instantly turn your copper-plating or even bare, polished steel solid black if you're not careful.

There are several creative ways to apply the Black F/X™, but the method I use the most is to lay my piece of steel flat on my work-bench. Then, with the spray-bottle set on the finest mist possible, I hold the bottle upright several feet above the steel, spray a fine mist and let it “rain” down on the steel.


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Sequencing & Timing of Patinas

I've even been known to set the Black F/X™ spray-bottle to “stream”, stand back 8-10 feet & bounce or ricochet the stream off the work-bench, letting the droplets 'splash' upward, onto the steel.

Of course, with this method, your piece of art should be vertical or leaned back a few degrees. If you're too aggressive with this trick, it will splatter too much Black F/X™ and it will run down the piece, leaving runs that don't look too artistic or attractive.


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Chapter EightSequencing & Timing of Patinas

RUST F/X™(Applied to Clean, Bare Steel)

In the photo above, Rust F/X™ was applied to H.R. Steel with the mill-scale still in place, then the edges were lightly sanded to reveal the steel below the rust patina.

Typically, you will spray or dip your clean, bare steel with Rust F/X™ and DO NOTRINSE! Let it dry for 12-24 hrs. You can then apply more for a darker rust, or wet the piece with water & let air-dry til you get the degree and color of rust that you want.

When using Rust F/X™, you will NOT need to Force-Dry with shop air.


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Note From Author:

Thank you for purchasing this e Book on Steel Patinas & Finishes.

I hope that you have gleaned at least one or two tricks or tips that will help you improve your craft & increase your profits. Metal-working is very rewarding & my hope is that you will keep trying new things & develop your own style & signature work.

Along with this book as a guide, you now have unlimited toll-free phone support by calling me at: 1.800.710.1273

My email is: [email protected]

All my best and to your continuing success,

Bill D. Worden, STEEL F/X®


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Steel Patinas and Finishes - eBook