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LIFE / STYLE & FASHION / FASHION TRENDSSee also: makeup, cosmetics

“STAY CAMERA-READY, MY FRIENDS”February 28, 2012

4:27 PM MST

Maurice Stein is the presiding elder guru to

generations of Hollywood makeup artists. He’s

also Founder of Cinema Secrets in Burbank,

where professionals attend classes with the

maestro, and stock their kits for the stage, studio

and red carpet.

Hollywood makeup guru Maurice Stein shares hissecret.

Photo of Maurice Stein by Cinema Secrets

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He is the godfather of the perfect pout and the

smoky eye. He’s used his brushes, sponges,

pencils and puffs on US Presidents, post-

apocalyptic primates (he won an Academy Award

for his work on the original “Planet of the Apes”

film in 1969) and everything in-between, including

years of working alongside legendary

photographer Mario Testino on dozens of

PLAYBOY magazine shoots.

Stein recounts bringing binoculars to the studio

as Testino photographed the Playmates,

monitoring each shutter-click in case a faux

eyelash shifted under the hot lights, or a lip-line

needed adjusting mid-shoot. These stories,

among others, call to mind the silver-fox

raconteuring of the other Most Interesting Man in

the World, or at least Toluca Lake.

No wonder Stein was the first makeup artist

inducted into the California Cosmetology

Association Hall of Fame, and is included in the

National Cosmetology Association Hall of

Renown.

But Stein’s greatest secret is that he shares the

secret—actually, thousands of cinema secrets--

with professionals and savvy consumers.

In addition to stocking top major brands (as well

as smaller, indie, cult-y brands), Stein founded his

own exclusive Cinema Secrets line of cosmetics

to meet needs he encountered in his own work

as a makeup artist. The brand, like the family-run

store which opened (originally in a smaller

location, across the street from NBC) in 1985,

became an instant hit among what he calls

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“Hollywood’s most expensive faces.”

Whether teaching or simply packaging and

marketing products, Stein is generous with

decades of how-to expertise.

For example:

SUPER SEALER – This product is ideal, of

course, misted over a finished face to keep

makeup in place, but it’s also a “sweat inhibitor”

when used before makeup. Let’s say perspiration

is in the forecast: job interview, wedding, long-

overdue “Cheaters” confrontation with your boo.

Mist on two light coats of Cinema Secrets SUPER

SEALER before applying moisturizer or primer, to

keep your skin looking matte under pressure.

PROFESSIONAL POWDER PUFF – Call him the

original “Puff Daddy”: Stein maintains that the

power of the iconic powder puff—versus the

brush—has been lost on young makeup users,

and needs to be restored. He says, “Nothing is

better for setting makeup. A puff, versus a brush,

presses the powder into the makeup, setting it

for longer periods of time, needing fewer touch-

ups.” The Cinema Secrets PROFESSIONAL

POWDER PUFF is large enough to use on both

face and body. The hand-stitched velour is

stuffed with memory-foam to retain shape and

softness, and is washable for up to one month,

depending on use.

TACO TECHNIQUE– “Women used powder

puffs as part of a compact that they kept in their

handbag, well into the 1960s. But women born in

the 80s don’t know how to use a puff properly,”



says Stein. From the maestro: dip Cinema

Secrets PROFESSIONAL POWDER PUFF into

small amount of powder. Fold puff in half like a

taco, and rub halves together (as if rubbing out a

stain), to work powder throughout puff. Roll or pat

onto foundation and press, to work the powder

in. Use a soft, fluffy brush to whisk away any

excess, then mist lightly with Cinema Secrets

MOISTURE SPRAY to absorb any residue.

KEEP IT CLEAN – Sanitation is key, for home-use

as well as in professional settings. Even if no one

else ever shares or touches your makeup, it’s a

nasty, dirty – ewww-- world out there, and

intercepting bacterial activity is how we prevent

conjunctivitis and other bug-related issues. For

instance, when using metal tools such as Cinema

Secrets MICRO SCISSORS (safer than plucking

and shaving), Stein reveals that basic rubbing

alcohol from the drugstore isn’t strong enough to

stand up to microbes. “If using alcohol, be sure to

soak scissors in 99% alcohol, and not basic

rubbing alcohol, which is only 70% and will not

completely sanitize.” He also recommends

Cinema Secrets BRUSH CLEANER, for maximum

sanitization. And of course, never, ever use your

fingers to apply makeup.

He’s opposed to oil-based skin care products,

revealing that he maintains his own robust

complexion with anhydrous, water-based

formulas—…“except on my dry feet.”

In addition to teaching and consulting, Stein is

also a philanthropist. He participates in the “Look

Good, Feel Better” program, and volunteers his



expertise to cancer patients and burn-survivors,

offering educational services and cosmetic

techniques and tips to The City of Hope, Phoenix

Society, several Shriners hospitals, Johns

Hopkins Burn Rehabilitation Center, and the

Grossman Burn Centers.

“Hopefully, most women don’t have to deal with

a cosmetic issue of this proportion,” he says.

“Makeup helps create character, onscreen and in

real life. We love showing women how to create

and project the character they want to be, just

with a little color, a little coverage, and a few

tools.”

For Spring, Stein forecasts three wearable twists

on classic looks:

“PURITY” – The key for this look is healthy,

flawless skin, to provide the perfect canvas for

sheer, subtle makeup tones. Think of this as an

aspirational look—doing so may help you choose

dark leafy greens and green tea, instead of fries

and a cola. It also should inspire you to avoid oily,

comedogenic, occlusive skin products

(translation: petrochemicals, bad). And it's the

best motivation to remove every speck of

makeup before bed at night, and to keep your

makeup tools immaculate as well.

The “PURITY” look is created with transparent

taupe and champagne tones, with glossy-clear

“Pink Glow” lips lined in “Carwash”, both from

Cinema Secrets. A key to this look is the

especially fresh, open, natural eye, created with

no highlight above the crease.



‘FRESH SQUEEZE” – An opportunity for women

to wear this season’s trendy orange-tangerine

tones. On eyes, “Gold” base with “Apricot”

contour, and “Flesh” highlighter. On apples of

cheeks, “Coral”, contoured with “Adobe” on

cheekbones and temples.

This beauty writer's stone-cold favorite for lips

this Spring: Lipstick Kit #15. It's a skinny,

rectangular palette (fits in my clutch!) of five

cream-pan colors-- to be applied with a brush-- in

the sunny, "Fresh Squeeze" range: Garnet,

Orange Flip, Deep Coral, Melon, Shiny Sand.

Perfect for those of us who channel The Girl from

Ipanema all year. Too-too fabu with bronzey skin,

or even tan-in-a-can. All from Cinema Secrets.

“METAL EDGE” –Updates the classic smoky eye

with green-blue tones replacing the usual

charcoals and blacks. For evening drama, lids

are contoured with “Midnight”, “Hollywood Lights

Peacock” and a bit of “Hollywood Lights Opal” at

the inner corner. Cheeks blush with “Peachy” and

“Cinnamon Spice”, all from Cinema Secrets.

As always, the secret lies in the tools used for

application as well as in the quality of the

formula. “Creating the fashion-crease above the

eye is literally one movement, when you use the

right brush, in a crescent shape,” he says.

When wearing a bright lip, which he

recommends as part of the season’s citrusy

“Fresh Squeeze” look, Stein says, “Most women

are ashamed of their lips, so they don’t wear a lot

of color there.” The answer: expanding and

improving the shape slightly with a pencil



matched to the lipstick, and pressing translucent

powder into the line to set it, using a powder puff,

not a brush. Last, a dab of gloss, a frost if desired,

in the center of the lower lip. Pressing lips

together makes lips look full and wet, which Stein

describes as “frankly, an invitation.”

An enduring love for his work and industry

motivates Stein to report to his office three days

a week, occasionally more. A native Angeleno

who has lived in the San Fernando Valley for 40

years, he observes dryly, “Most people my age

are either retired or dead.”

CINEMA SECRETS

4400 Riverside Drive

818-846-0579

www.cinemasecrets.com

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