Fashion, BeFore it happens

Dream as if youll live forever. Live as if youll die today- James Dean

Autumn 2012 Issue 001 6

AUTUMNEditionWinter

matthew hutchingseDitor

contributing writers

amy miles

Kylie nye

mel wylie

Julia sumi

JacK wetherill

JinKs rose

sarah FranKlanD

Katie smith

aDam bell

runwilD meDia group

7 Heron Quay

Canary Wharf

London

UK

E14 4JB

Tel: 44+ ( 0)20 7987 4320

Email: info@rwmg.co.uk

Dream as iF youll live Forever. live as iF youll Die toDay

- James Dean

2 |OCTOBER 2012

Oct

ober

1 FromEditorthe

OCTOBER 2012|3

editors Letter

H ello, and welcome to you, Statures first readers.When we first though of Stature many moons ago, we realised that there was room for a new mens fashion magazine. A luxury magazine that delivered premium content to its city-dwelling

readers; one that talked intelligently about fashion. A magazine that wasnt just pic-

tures, but wasnt just text either. We realised that there was room for Stature, and now, many moons later, I look back at what we have created for you, and try to describe it.

Each page has been designed with you in mind, and our editorial team have worked

tirelessly to deliver the best quality content on all things fashion. Product features,

Seasonal style, grooming products, Designers and Fashion gone by - its all covered,

and all by our inhouse and freelance expert fashion writers, so you know that what

youre reading is bang on trend.

So there it is; a desperately short summary of the very first issue of Stature magazine. Alas, the perils of being an Editor, and having just a short few hundred words to talk

to you each issue. I look forward to talking to you more over the years, though, and

as we grow, I hope you too will join us on our journey and grow with us.

My colleagues hope you can see that Stature really is more than just a fashion magazine its an entire lifestyle in the palms of your hands. From all of the Stature Team here in London Welcome to the club.

Enjoy, Matt

KilgourEstablished 1882

ContentsOctober 2012

The Stature of Savile RowQuality, luxury, bespoke. Jack Wetherill celebrates

the history of this historic fashion street.

The Holy TrinityOur writers get to grips wit three of the best design-

ers Britain has to offer - up and coming, national

treasures - well be covering them all in the coming

issues.

Fashion Past

Best Of British

Season StyleWinter Style Essentials

From classic coats to suave scarfs, our winter

fashion correspodent has you covered for all eventu-alities.

Season StyleA/W 2013 - What to ExpectStature gives you our expert opinion on what to

expect from next seasons line-up.

Style FeatureTop 5 on Fancy Footwear

Rose Jinks cover footwear for all ocassions - whether youre hitting the town or kicking back for the night

GroomingScent and the City

Rose Jinks cover footwear for all ocassions - whether youre hitting the town or kicking back for the night

Style FeatureMr. Continental

Our writers get to grips wit three of the best design-ers Britain has to offer - up and coming, national

treasures - well be covering them all in the coming

issues.

p.32

p.14

p.28

p.42

p.36

p.8

p.24

OCTOBER 2012|5

SCENTthe

andcityWith the neW season and the Winter trends just around the corner its time to bring

your look up to date. it often takes perfumers years to develop a scent and every

eau spreads its very oWn unique atmosphere and embodies a Whole lifestyle. fol-

loW statures guide on this seasons fragrances and be seductive and sensual one day,

sophisticated and urban the other.

Bond No. 9, Andy WarholLonging for a fragrance that spreads the scent of bo-ho-chic and iconic artistry? Andy Warhol, launched in 2011, the latest release of the Bond No. 9 series dedi-cated to the artist, is an intellectual and sophisticated scent for the urban man. Perfect for cultural events and gallery strolls the predominant aroma Bergamot makes the fragrance Mad Men-esque and irresistibly classy-stylish. The bottle features a photo-booth por-trait of Warhol wearing dark sunglasses and a trench coat.

Amouage, ReflectionThe fragrance Reflection by Amouage is the em-bodiment of the high art of seduction. The House of Amouage are famous for their oriental-mystical bouquet and so is Reflection. Woody and floral si-multaneously, its perfect to wear on a romantic date and the scent to go for if you plan to twist your lady around your little finger. Like every mens fragrance by Amouage, Reflection comes in a flacon, which has the shape of Khanjar, the traditional dagger of Oman, and an embossed Jacquard pattern. De luxe.

by Julia sumi

8 |OCTOBER 2012

Lavin, Avant-GardeAvant-Garde by Lavin is both a timeless and modern fragrance that underlines the character of the successful man of the 21st century. With its subtle flavour characterised by oriental and woody aromas it acts discreetly in the background and is per-fectly suitable for a day at work. The modesty and elegance of Avant-Garde is supported by the straight and clean design of its flacon.

Fragonard, MensongeMensonge by Fragonard launched in 2005 though is the perfect me time scent. Grapefruit, ginger and green leaves make it a light, airy and particularly fresh flavour. Making you feel relaxed and cosy Mensonge is a wellbe-ing fragrance best worn at home after a pleasant and calming bubble bath on a freezing winter day. Elegance and softness are the main characteristics of fruity and floral Mensonge. The mod-ern and clean packaging of the cologne and its matt silver bottle are plain and simple just as the scent itself.

Roja, ScandalScandal - as its name implies - is not for the faint-hearted. Its a scent for when its dark outside, a party scent to dance the night away. Scandals peppery and ar-omatic bouquet is based on ba-sil, lavender and selected spices. Sensual, teasing and sexy this complex fragrance launched in 2011 turns the night into day. The black and gold noble pack-aging expresses exclusiveness and the appearance reflects the content perfectly. Scandal is the first mens fragrance by Roja and its a real success. The effect of the perfume is unpredictable so be careful when you apply it - or simply enjoy.

OCTOBER 2012|9

products

LONDON

LONDONAt Park Lane

Hamilton PlaCe

Park lane

london

england

W1J 7dr

tel. 44 (0) 20 7499-0888

Fax. 44 (0) 20 7493-1895

B

estOfritishBDesigners

fashion is about more than the clothes We Wear. its about a persons identity;

its an expression of Who We are - Why We are the Way We are, and celebrating

it. its about communicating these ideas to the people around us, and meeting

other like-minded people that Wear their clothes to do the same. and some-

times, its about the designers that made them.britain produces some of the

finest fashion designers in the World. best of british designers is a regular

feature giving you that chance to learn their story.

NicollMaking an impact on the world of fashion this season is

London born Richard Nicoll, already been named Best young

designer at the Elle style awards at London fashion week

SS09, Richard Nicoll is a name which is becoming more and

more well known. Since graduating from central St Martins

in 2002 Nicoll had worked alongside Marc Jacobs at Louis

Vuttion and then went on to become creative director at

Cerruti in Paris. With a successful fashion blog for Vogue.com

and his own fashion line making us stand up and take notice

his career is taking off at full speed. He was awarded three

ANDAM prizes in 2008. He has also been appointed design

director for Fred Perrys premium line as well as releasing his

7th best-selling capsule collection for Topshop and this is

all the past 12 months. Prior to his success in fashion design

Nicoll worked in advertising as a group account director.

With his latest mens wear collection Nicoll tried to create his

ideal wardrobe, something he himself would want to wear.

The fact he was a menswear student at Central St Martins

obviously paid off as his spring 2013 collection reflects this

amazing talent. Smart casual clothing is the name of the game,

with a mix of clean cut whites, loose fitting smart trousers and

hoodies he has catered to every mans needs in the wardrobe

dept. Just when you think you have Richard Nicoll all figured

out and put down as just another average designer with a

signature look of shirts and smart wear he goes and throws

in a splash of bright blues and show stopping patterns. The

designer shows his versatility through this collection. Short

listed for BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and with high

profile clients such as the beautiful Kiera Knightly this young

British designers career is only going to get better.

So whether you want a smart yet casual look, a trendy yet

sporty look or a show stopping, heads turning outfit, Richard

Nicoll seems to be the man that can provide this.

Richard

You have to be instinctive

about your ideas and what youre

feeling

by Kylie nye

14 |OCTOBER 2012

OCTOBER 2012|15

Patrick Grants story is one of a man who has seemingly done

everything. Born in Edinburgh, he gained a degree in material

sciences at Leeds University. After several years of working in

a variety of jobs in many different countries, Grant went on to

attend Said Business School in Oxford where he studied for a

Masters in Business Administration. Switch now to Savile Row,

the tireless cutting, stitching and pressing of garments seeming-

ly a millions miles away from business school...

Savile Row boasts the largest collection of acclaimed tailors

at the top of their game, and has done so for well over 100

years. Norton and Sons is certainly no exception. This bespoke

tailor has called Savile Row home since the 1860s (having been

founded 1821 on the Strand). Their long standing reputation

as a well respected sporting tailor speaks for itself when you

look at their cliental; suiting the likes of Winston Churchill,

Frank Sinatra, royal families around the world, and several US

Presidents. In spite of this, back in 2005, the company had not yet

been swept up in Savile Rows new bespoke movement. Business

dwindled, and other tailors on the Row were taking precedence over

Norton and Sons.

That was, until Patrick Grant bought the tailors after spotting an advertise-

ment in a newspaper. Having never worked in fashion before, but spurred

on by a lifelong love of clothing, selling everything he had for this was a

real leap of faith...

Since Grant became director in 2005, the last seven years have seen a

phenomenal rise in business for Norton and Sons; cutting on average, just

under 300 hundred suits per year. The company has been restored to its

former glory. The tailors work on beautiful, classic and simple garments

Your mother can provide comfortyour clothes should make you look

good.

PatrickGrantfor many a fine gentleman, with the utmost attention paid to

fabric sourcing and perfection in details.

Indeed, the tailors success has been so great, that Grant

was able to relaunch one of the

companys formerly incorporated

houses; E. Tautz, in 2009. The

ready-to-wear subsidiary has

seen huge success in the three

short years it has been operating.

In 2010, Grant won the British

Fashion Award for Menswear

Designer of the Year for his work

at the house, and in May 2012 E.

Tautz was a winner in the Fashion Forward initiative scheme,

enabling the house to show at the new mens fashion week in

June. It is clear to see why when one takes a look at the brands

Spring/Summer 2013 collection; pristinely cut suits and coats

are interspersed with bright pops of beautiful colour. Fabric

is key here, and from the way the garments move on the

catwalk it is clear that this collection is of the highest quality.

Perfectly fitted bright shorts and lightweight trench coats give

the collection a fresh edge, making it appealing to gentlemen

of any age.

E. Tautz has collaborated twice in the last year with shoe

designers John Lobb and Harrys of London; the latter being

presented on the runway during the Spring/Summer 2013

collection. Pink and blue shoes complimented the collection

perfectly, finishing it off and showing that an eye for detail is

what its all about. Anyone can see from his work at both E.

Tautz and Norton and Sons that Grant has a real love of fine

traditions - fast fashion is not what style is about. Quality, not

quantity, is his message from Savile Row.

In 2012, menswear is more im-

portant now than it has been since

the sixties. The first ever London

mens fashion week took place in

June, and finally the modern Savile

Row holds appeal for all kinds of

men, of all different ages. Patrick

Grant has been instrumental

in bringing menswear to the

forefront of fashion; rebranding

a failing company and relaunching another, creating two

fine examples of menswear that is both sophisticated and

sartorially inspiring. Grants belief that every man should be

well-dressed has stood him in fine stead for a successful future

in fashion and tailoring, as well as being an inspiration to many

aspiring designers and dapper gentleman alike.

Rumour has it that Grant could be about to launch a wom-

enswear line for E. Tautz, that according to his girlfriend,

jewelry designer Katie Hillier, who is pushing for something

to wear herself. The future for Patrick Grant looks promising;

he continues to direct both Norton and Sons and E. Tautz,

business for the houses continues to grow, and he is sure to

make an equally impressive mark at the next fashion week.

Grant has a real love of fine traditions - fast fash-

ion is not what style is about

by amy miles

OCTOBER 2012|17

Best oF British

OswaldBoateng

Known for his unique twist on classic British bespoke

tailoring, Ozwald Boateng was born in Muswell Hill, London

in 1967. His impressive career in the fashion industry began

when he opened a studio on the Portobello Road in 1991,

aged just 23, and he hasnt looked back since.

Going from strength to strength, Boateng went on to present

his catwalk show to a global audience in Paris, 1994, and later

that year opened his first store on Vigo Street, just off the

legendary Savile Row, earning Boateng the reputation for

bringing a new brand of bespoke tailoring to the street. This

Bespoke Couture, as Boateng affectionately named it, would

exemplify what the tailor is known for today: bringing art,

architecture and fashion together into wearable styles worn by

men of all ages around the world.

The internationally acclaimed designer has won a plethora

of awards for his work, including the Lifetime Achievement

Award from Arise Magazine, one of Africas finest global style magazines, and in 2011 was awarded an Honarary Degree by

the University for the Creative Arts for his contributions to

fashion.

Anyone can wear any colour.The

question is about finding the right

shade.

by Francesca nieDzielsKi

OCTOBER 2012|19

Best oF British

Rien nest trop beau.

20 |OCTOBER 2012

Rien nest trop cher.

www.bugatti.com

Come

Flywith us...

continentalMr

continental

A man whos fashion knows its limit in terms of style, shape and fabric has the right to be the bag man. His

cash knows no limit but he is clever to understand

the practicality of what he is

undertaking/buying.

Design has come along way for

men and its now time for men

to follow through the concept/

style that a designer has created.

The era of the murse man has

officially arrived.

Take a long look at your wardrobe what are you

missing in relation to the travel bag? This had to be

the bag that is versatile, compliments your style and

your personality. Fashion has its own language as

does human behaviour, conveying to the opposite

sex or peers what your about or what makes you

tick. So here are our top tips to get you started,

Follow the latest fashion trends according to your

body shape, looks and age. Your first thought may

be that the talk about shapes is a womans thing

men have body shapes as well! Dont go for an

oversized bag if it oversizes you! Be practical it

should be in proportion to your height and weight.

Which leads us to our next tip, designers offer a

lifestyle in the form of clothes, decide where you

belong, this will only empower your look further.

If your life in general is luxurious and you can af-

ford the finer things then you

can turn to designers such as

Ralph Lauren, Burberry and

Gucci.

Finally remain true to

yourself. It may look good

on the runway or the shop

window but does it look

good on you!?

Fashion is a huge enforcer of what you stand for,

your beliefs and values dont settle for second best!

The bag man wouldnt take anything other then

the best!

The era of the murse man has

officially arrived.

do you see yourself With a travel bag? designed by gucci, burberry

or paul smith? most of all do you see yourself as the murse man?

OCTOBER 2012|25

styLe Feature

The Gucci Goldmark Jacquard Duffle bag is a

classic example of current trend of patterns, print

and the distressed leather look taking centre stage

in accessories. It has an inside pocket and two

smart phone pockets which is clearly targeted

for the business bag man. With a height of

35cm it is perfect for the in the rush bag man,

to quickly pack everything in with ease. Only

essentials please!!

On the Market

Now to look at it more

closely. Look at your

calendar what have you

got to look forward too?

Weekends away abroad or are

you staying home? If your

heading abroad you have the

luxury to be a little bit more

colourful the jet set bag

man. Everyone likes colour

when they go on holiday its

like an unwritten code and

this seasons colour is in the

form of patterns and prints

so take note.

If your staying close to home

for most of the autumn/win-

ter the key things to look out

for is what type of holiday is

it touristy? Is it hiking? You

can still be fashionable on

top of a mountain! The bag

to wear this autumn/winter

is the back pack. Its back in

fashion and looking as sleek

as ever.

Lets have a look whats out

there

1

Gucci Goldmark Jacquard Duffle

Burberry Suade Patchword Holdall

Burberry is also creating waves with the suede patchwork holdall. A real modern

man/successful guy bag. This man provides a great lifestyle and stability and has a nice car, nice house and more importantly he is in need of a nice bag!! The choice of fabrics is something to compete with; velvet soft suede, leather and satin, so no wonder it has a true bag man asking price. It has some treats including the vintage details. The colours and shape of this bag are classically masculine perfect for making a statement whilst keeping you in the forefront of fashion trends.

2

26 |OCTOBER 2012

All these bags are available online but be wary they might be out of stock (because there a HOT ticket), but I am a keen enforcer of primary shopping, head to the store! There is nothing like seeing the bag in real

life, you can get a feel for the fabric, check all the treats the bag has in stall for you! Also taking a long look in the mirror with the bag is also encouraged how else will you know if it looks good. BE AWARE of sales consultants they will try to sell you anything! Stick to your guns about what you know will be comfortable and wearable for

you.

One of many mens favourite designers is Paul Smith his collections are easily stated as cool and current. So this bag is made for the regular cool

and current customer, always down to earth, loyal and stable, who works hard.

If your not one to be flamboyant this is the bag for you from Paul

Smiths Boston collection. In a sleek grey and black colour scheme, this epitomizes masculinity with a fashion twist. The placing of the leather trimmings is unique and eye appealing. Perfect for the bag man. With two large zip compartments, shoulder straps, side compartments and interior pockets what more could we ask from a bag! Its size is a little shorter then the Gucci bag and you may have to be a little more conscious in how much you pack but if youre a gadget bag man this is perfect for you with compartments for

everything!!

If you have been following trends in mens fashion then you certainly have seen the back pack come back!! This is another victory item from Burberry. The large cotton canvas backpack is ideal for the

adventurer bag man that needs something hard wearing, durable and stylish. This man is always looking for the next fun and exciting experience, think James Bond!

The back pack as all the safety features with the invisible drawcord and multiple pockets and with the choice of colours you really can coordinate with your current wardrobe. Perfect for hiking weekends away or exploring the ancient ruins of European cities. Packing for the day and the night has been made easy with this backpack.

Burberry Cotton Canvas Backpack 3

Burberry Cotton Canvas Backpack 4

OCTOBER 2012|27

F irst off, and prob-ably above all else, you need a winter coat. Some will be cringing at

the thought of a winter coat, but dont

worry, not all are hideous! Be sure to

stay away from anything that will make

you look like a mountain hiker.

The perfect coat this season is some-

thing quite tailored and classic, which

will also keep you warm and toasty. The

Martingala Con Gilet from Loro Piana

is very acceptable. The tweed cashmere

coat is designed in a two-tone diagonal

weave fabric, which is right on trend for

the season. It also features a black fabric

lining under the collar, which, when

popped, gives a new, fresh take on this

classic coat.

If you do want something that will be

a little more waterproof ,then Aquas-

cutum is the answer. Looking at the

Aquascutum Belted Aquamac Raincoat,

it looks no different to any other

beautifully crafted raincoat. However,

the Aquamac is made using special

technical fabrics to keep you extra

dry. The classic trench coat cut of this

garment means you will be using this for

the next two decades or more. The coat

falls mid length and is the definition of

luxury, with genuine corozo buttons,

and beautiful leather buckles on the

waist and on the cuffs. Whatever your

outfit, this is a definite must have.

Although that winter coat will keep you

warm, itd be a good idea to invest in

one or two pieces of knitwear. Printed

sweaters and cardigans are big right now,

but you dont have to spend the winter

months looking like Christmas number

one fan. Simple and plain is the way to

go, especially when making an invest-

ment in a piece. AMI has a stunning

mustard coloured jumper available, and

is an essential when it comes to giving

Winter is just around the corner, and from the summer Weather so far, Were approach-ing that corner hard and fast. as the seasons change, your Wardrobe should do the same in order to keep you up to date and bang on trend this Winter. With statures

guide to Winter style essentials, you cant go Wrong When dressing for the Weather.

Essentialsby aDam bell

28 |OCTOBER 2012

OCTOBER 2012|29

seasons

your bland winter wardrobe just the

slightest pop of colour. This luxury

piece will benefit you in unimaginable

ways.

If you want a more interesting sweater,

Wooyoungmi has the answer. The

Wooyoungmi Contrast-sleeve Wool-

blend Sweater puts a twist on the

traditional knitwear

piece, and makes it

more of a state-

ment piece. Plain

black wool-blend

arms accompany

the cable-knit

rollneck body.

This is definitely

a must-have,

however, when wearing this piece, do so

skillfully and keep the rest of your outfit

understated. Let this amazing piece

speak for itself.

That guy who smirks and proclaims

that men dont need scarves hes

wrong. Besides the winter coat, a man

cannot go through these cold harsh

days without his scarf. You can either

invest in a plain neutral colour to match

all of your outfits, or treat yourself to a

selection of exciting colours. Which ever

you decide to do, Gucci is the way to go.

If angels could sew, weave and produce

scarves then sell them to millions, these

would be the scarves. They are woven

from light-as-air silk to match the Italian

brands luxurious demeanor. In all

fairness, any Gucci scarf will do! Two

absolute must-have pieces, however, are

the Iris Print Silk Scarf, black and grey

in colour with a beautiful, hand-finished

print. The second is the Gucci Printed

Silk Scarf, in a rich

forest-green with

a faded printed

design, available

from Mr Porter.

Again, if you

want to spend a

little more and you

like very graphic

printed pieces, head

straight for the

Alexander McQueen. If none of these

happen to be your style, any good plain

cashmere scarf would be perfect for

warmth and style.

Now, lets talk about one often forgotten

area the hands. Gloves are absolutely

required for your winter outings. Try

and go for a leather or sheepskin pair.

Think about the perfect gloves being

like Ugg boots for your hands. They

need to be snug, warm, and let you get

the job done. Always invest in a good

pair of gloves, because theres nothing

worse than unarticulated fingers and

That guy who smirks and pro-claims that men

dont need scarves hes wrong

Aquascutum - Belted Aquamac Raincoat

Loro Piana - Martingala Con Gilet

30 |OCTOBER 2012

Featured Items

thumbs when wearing ill-fitting gloves.

Paul Smiths Sheepskin Gloves are the

way to go. They come in chocolate

brown and feature a light sky blue

visible stitching. The visible stitching

adds a new depth and modern feel to

the otherwise traditional-looking- glove.

You are a Stature man. And because of

this, it would only

be right to assume

you take great pride

in your appearance.

Well, why have it

ruined by snow,

sleet and hail? What

you need is an um-

brella. But not just

any old umbrella,

you deserve better.

The Duck Handle Striped Walking Um-

brella from Burberry. Need I say more?

As if the name itself isnt enough, this

umbrella is a brilliant statement. It

comes with a beautifully crafted, maple

wooden duck head handle, hand-carved

by an Italian craftsman. This piece

comes in two colours: Dark Turquoise,

or Chocolate. The Chocolate colour will

go with just about everything. However,

the Dark Turquoise is just that dash of

colour your winter wardrobe needs! It

is 100% polyester and is easy to care

for, just wipe clean with a damp cloth.

Its easy and beautiful, as well as being a

great topic of conversation.

Finally, ask yourself one question. When

the day is over, does your lifestyle have

to stop? The answer is, and always

should be, No. The perfect pair of

winter PJs are essential. Theyre great

for your wife, girlfriend, or partner to

look at, but more

importantly, they

will make you

feel indescribable.

Available from

Mr Porter, the

Derek Rose Striped

Cotton Pyjama

set is ideal for lazy

Sunday mornings

with breakfast in

bed, or late nights by the fire with a

good old book. Although the brand isnt

as well-know and commercial as other,

it has been creating its fine quality night-

wear since 1926. This particular pair of

pyjamas is made from cotton-poplin

and features satin stripes and multiple

pockets.

So, your winter essentials are

sorted. But you dont have to stop

there. Try out hats, sheepskin boots

and get looking for the perfect winter

bag. With this guide as your base, you

cant go wrong this coming winter.

Try out hats, sheepskin boots and get looking for the perfect winter bag

Wooyoungmi - Contrast-sleeve Wool-

blend Sweater

Gucci - Iris Print silk scarf

OCTOBER 2012|31

seasons

S avile Row is the home of bespoke tailoring. The Mayfair street is known worldwide for its high quality of suits and tailored items, and many great men Winston

Churchill, Napoleon and Mohammed Ali

to name just a few have been

measured up there.

The word bespoke is said to

originate from the Golden

Mile of Tailoring itself.

Stemming from to be

spoken for, the term refers

to a suit specifically fit for

an individual customer.

But Savile Row, or Savile Street as it was originally,

and its bespoke creations were not always as iconic.

The Row was created in the fall of the 17th Century

by the Earl of Burlington and stands in what

were the gardens of the Burlington Estate. Mrs

Burlington, Dorothy Savile, was given the honour

of having the street named after her. Hundreds of

years later and everyone still knows her name, well

her surname at least. Originally only the east side

of the street was built on with the west being left

as gardens. It officially became Savile Row over

100 years after its birth. Although the west side was

built on afterwards, leaving those who changed the

name from street to row slightly bemused. Maybe.

Tailors did not appear on the street until around

1785, with the purpose of Savile Street being for

Staturethe oF

by JacK wetherill

military homes. By the early 1800s, though, many

more tailors had popped up.

Mr. Henry Poole was credited as the founder of

Savile Row as a tailoring area in the 1840s after he

opened a second entrance to his fathers tailors at

No. 32. He was of course taking someone elses

glory as there were already many tailors established

there. The row has, as one would expect, changed

significantly since

its creation, both in

terms of building and

tailoring. Only eight

of the original houses

still stand and the

number of tailors on

the street has decreased

over time. The rise in rent prices in the area and

the rise in large chain stores may have caused the

drop in the number of bespoke tailors. There are

now fewer than 20 tailors in the street, yet Savile

Row remains one of the finest places in the world

for tailor-made suits. Georgio Armani accused the

row of falling behind on times, too, which that the

stores still open are even more special and should

be treasured. The Poole name is still recognised

on Savile Row, though no longer at No. 32. Henry

Poole & Co. moved from their original house after

the expired and returned to the row in 1982 to No.

15.

A number of other tailors have been on the street

since the 19th Century. H. Huntsman & Sons at

No. 11 was established in 1849. Their designs now

feature firm shoulders and a sculpted waist, much

like the silhouette of a riding coat. Huntsman suits

are known to have the most expensive starting

prices for a two-piece suit generally over 3,000.

But what is money when it comes to looking the

best you can?

Dege & Skinner, No. 10, has remained a fami-

ly-run business since its establishment in 1865.

It is known for an expertise in military as well as

civilian clothing and is by royal appointment to Her

Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, His Majesty the Sultan

of Oman and His Majesty the King of Bahrain. It

would be criminal to

refuse anything fit for

royalty.

The merging of two

separate tailoring hous-

es saw the formation

of Gieves & Hawkes,

now at No. 1, in 19th Century. Whilst Gieves & Hawkes were suppliers

who focused on the British Army and the Royal

Navy, the merged house was the first to provide

ready-to-wear clothes on Savile Row.

One of the smallest outfits on the

Row (only making 300 bespoke

suits a year), Norton & Sons,

was founded in 1821 at No. 16.

Expect the finest from Norton

& Sons, as their tailors all appren-

ticed on Savile Row so tradition

runs through their fingers

into the cloth.

New

faces have

Savile Row remains one of the finest places in the

world for tailor-made suits

Stature

OCTOBER 2012|33

Fashion past

emerged onto the row more recently, changing the traditions held so

tightly in the past. This is, of course, a benefit to the street as now the

new man who, perhaps, cares for fashion visits and takes part in the

Savile Row experience.

Ozwald Boateng brought his twist on the classic British tailoring style to

Savile Row in 1995 and opened his flagship store at No. 30 in 2008. He is

credited with attracting a younger generation to tailoring as a pioneer of

the new bespoke movement. He coined the term bespoke couturier as

he sees himself as a designer as well as a tailor. In addition to the bespoke

tailoring service Boateng offers, he also produces two ready-to-wear

collections a year which have been shown at London Fashion Week.

If black or grey arent your colours, and they cant be everybodys, then a

green or blue three piece may be more to your taste. Boateng has pushed

the boundaries of what Savile Row is and revitalised what we expect of a

suit.

The New Bespoke movement originated in the early 1990s when tailors

attempted to bring a new air to the traditional styling associated with

Savile Row. Boateng, along with Timothy Everest and Richard James

wanted to break away from the stereotypical yet perfectly acceptable idea

of Savile Row.

They changed their shop fronts and used marketing and publicity to

attract a younger audience. James, for example, introduced the alien

idea of a Saturday opening to his store in 1992. God only knows

what would happen if a Sunday opening was to happen.

Core values of Savile Row were still important to these three

revolutionaries of tailoring, which are customer service, fit and

exclusivity. But they brought twists to the traditional suit, using

contemporary silhouettes and bolder fabrics.

Savile Row remains a haven for the modern man looking to

add a timeless item of bespoke clothing to his wardrobe.

Whether a traditional taste or a love of fashion, the famous

street has an outfit to suit. Add a luxurious Savile Row

finest to your wardrobe and hang it proudly beside your

Armani or Ralph Lauren.

The Golden Mile has long stood out as the place for

tailoring, and should it continue for as long as a man

needs a quality suit.

34 |OCTOBER 2012

5ootwearTopONancyFshoes are often described as a Womans favourite accessory -a World filled With plat-

forms, Wedges, stilettos. but shoe designers famous for bringing glamour, opulence

and individuality to the ladys Wardrobe are noW bringing their talents to the World

of mens shoes. quirky footWear is increasingly becoming a personality trait distin-

guisher for the modern gentleman. to illustrate the variety, and character, of this

seasons shoe masterpieces, Weve put together the top 5 of the very best in fancy foot-

Wear, so theres never an occasion Where your feet go amiss.

by rose JinKs

5ootwear

At first glance, these Christian

Louboutins may be the last thing

youd describe as classic, yet in their

sophisticated shape they embody

Louboutins signature evening wear

style and would add a whole lot of

quirk to a formal suit. The colour may

be a little less subtle than the legendary

red sole, but is striking and definitely

wont stand unnoticed. Embellishment

is a common feature at Louboutin, a

way to bring attitude and glamour to

shoes built upon simplistic brilliance in

fit and style.

If class, elegance and a more tradition-

al style is more up your street, then

look no further than Guccis Doyen

Oxfords. Made in Italy and carrying

the biggest-selling Italian brands

craftsmanship and design excellence,

these suede and python navy dress

shoes are the classic statement of so-

phistication. Suede is a delicate fabric,

and mixed with the python toecap,

these would have pride place in any

shoe closet. Attention to detail is the

key here. The navy of the suede, luxu-

rious use of python and a monkstrap

finished with silver hardware could not

make for more a formal, yet charming

pair of shoes. Not your ordinary black

or brown Oxfords, the navy blue

is a simple way to bring colour and

originality to a prim three-piece suit.

Pair with a classic black suit to keep

you looking ahead of the game.

Soft suede fabric isnt just suitable for

eveningwear, Kurt Geiger have created

the perfect style with this versatile

material. The Caine boot is made of

a slightly darker hue of navy than the

monkstraps, giving a lot more versatili-

ty to the pieces they can be worn with.

With more durability in this derby

boot style, a slight scuff here and there

will only add to the character of such

a simple, classic design. Personality can

be added to these everyday cool shoes,

whether theyre worn with jeans and a

polo shirt or chinos and a more adven-

turous shirt; these boots really will be

a staple. Kurt Geiger offer shoes for

a niche market and pride themselves

on their strong design element that

captures the very best of what those

customers aiming for something just a

little bit different want. A classic derby

lace-up, with a little bit of colour

clashing punch, these boots really are

the right side of the niche market.

Jeffrey West offer the highest quality

in British shoemaking and have a

distinctive style based upon a classic

Victorian look with hints of gothic

design and are perfectionists in leath-

erwork. These cutting-edge Terence

boots are just that - gothic glamour

with a crease effect leather.

Flamboyant in nature, these boots

combine eccentric character to give

this overall feel, and again, its atten-

tion to the smallest of detail that set

these aside from any other black leath-

er boots. The lining colour, imprint on Christian Louboutins - Rollerboy Spikes

Kurt Geiger - Caine Boot

the sole, skull studs - they all give these

boots an unrivalled personality, and

more so, the wearer. Complimenting

the metallic hints of the leather can be

worked with tones of grey in a struc-

tured double-breasted suit to really

combine prominence and status in

dress. Theyre not a boot for the shy;

such antique features arent popularly

used in formal dress, yet at the right

occasion, where personality and a little

bit of eccentricity is admired, these

delicately made boots have just the

right amount of splendor if youre

not afraid to flash your skulls.

If a structured boot isnt your

preferred style for eveningwear, then

maybe make like Hugh Hefner with

a more relaxed slipper. The evening

slipper is becoming a definitive way to

wear formal shoes; a certain comfort-

able elegance yet still boasting a smart

feel. This Jimmy Choo Sloane pair

is most certainly striking upon first

looking at them, and youd definitely

give them a second glance. A British

brand famous for luxurious accesso-

ries, you know a pair of Jimmy Choos

will never let you down when it comes

to the highest of style. Although an

eccentric pair, the dressed-up slipper

is the way to go for formal occasions,

where elegance is brought to life with

quirky embroidery on a simplistic

suede base. Although the colours may

be standout, theyll only compliment

a unique suit styling, yet this may be

the only pattern you want to try. An

opulent floral design in the richest of

colours, this precise pattern can only

mean one thing; that youre leading the

way in the fashion stakes. The shape

of the shoe is a classic slipper style, a

rounded feel that exudes comfort and

ease of wear.

So; whatever the style youre going

for, be it a night out on the town or

something a little more formal, there

are plenty of quirky options out on

the market for you to choose from.

Your shoes can be an elegant finish

or an extravagant embellishment

that captures the essence of any

outfit or occasion. These pairs are

all completely different in terms of

character; where some may add hints

of quirkiness, others are statements

in their mix of features. And it may

seem that they may be one-off outfit

enhancers, but worked properly into

your wardrobe, any of these shoes can

be a modern investment in classic style

and unique taste.

OCTOBER 2012|39

Jimmy Choo - Deep Purple Sloane

the Worlds best tasting Vodka

Grey Goose

HIPHIP

HURRAY

!

!

What does mens fashion Week have in store for us next

Winter? british heritage is coming our Way and by jove Were

excited.

by Katie smith

42 |OCTOBER 2012

T he end of the world is near but lets be optimistic and believe we will make it into 2013 and reveal another year of fashion firsts for men. 2012 introduced us all to the debut of mens fashion week in London. Being such an exciting success,

what does this mean for the year of 2013 and what does it

have in store for us?

Long gone have the days in which you have to battle your way

through the throngs of women stood around rail after rail

of womens clothing, to finally reach your destination of the

menswear stashed in the back corner under the dimmed lights.

Mens clothing has been a taboo within the fashion industry

for years but 2012 has bought it into the lime light and men

can finally celebrate their love of fashion without being labeled

with the well-known stereotype.

June this year saw the first fashion week completely devoted

to men after a long awaited decision by the British Fashion

Council. Prestigious designers such as Paul Smith and Chris-

topher Kane displaying their masculine feathers as well as the

shiny and new designers such as Shaun Samson exploding

onto the scene with such varicosity that not even James Bond

could handle.

The idea that men only get excited over double Fs (food and

football) is a notion that has been demolished due to the new

percentage of men spending more of their hard earned cash

on luxury fashion items in comparison to women. According

to American Express, men are spending 24% more on luxury

transactions in comparison to women but on a less regular

basis.

Saving the pennies to splurge on Burberry Trench Coats and

Saville Row suits is the way of the man during 2012. High

street is still not a big deal for the gentlemen of todays society,

maybe its due to the likes of Tony Stark in Iron Man and Rio

Ferdinand in their sharp suits with their designer sunglasses

that are making you admire their dress sense and men of today

OCTOBER 2012|43

seasons

Awant to emulate wealth and power with the day

dream of one day becoming the millionaire with

the 3 Lamborghinis and Megan Fox on your arm.

The year of 2012 has been the main stage for the

uprising of masculinity within the fashion industry.

This is a big turn within the fashion diary. The

year of 2013 will see mens fashion week truly

being introduced and transformed throughout the

fashion capitals of the world. Taking and interpret-

ing the inspiration received from the women, men

will become the talking point of every year. The

models will become hot topic; their eclectic styles

will transform the

everyday mans view

on clothing. This is

the beginning of the

introduction to the

most stylish men in

the world, so take

a step back Tinie

Tempah, because

the ordinary man is

breaking through to

introduce the reality of what mens fashion week

can offer.

So, what is there to expect from the Autumn/

Winter collection 2013?

The combination of slick Britannia and British

Heritage will be arriving on our runways. The

patriotism within our country from 2012 is being

transferred across to our 2013 style pallet. The look

will be incorpo-

rating the Scottish

Highlands with

the London club

scene. Masculine

wools, twill

jackets and duffle

coats will all be

part of every

mans essentials

next year. The

expected colours of the British runway will include

beiges and browns to be in sync with the colours

of the British countryside.

The styles of next years collection is bring the mas-

culinity back into fashion. You will be transferred

back into the era of sex, drugs and rock n roll. Its

time to welcome back the sixties with open arms

with checked trousers, three button vests in tweed

and zipped lumber jackets in colourful leathers.

Look no further than the great Ralph Lauren to

help support you through this back to the future

scenario. Why not have a look at the Polo Ralph

Lauren tweed vest for 345 to help you kick start

into those swinging sixties.

The year of 2013 will see mens fashion week truly being introduced and transformed

throughout the fashion capitals of the world.

W44 |OCTOBER 2012

AThe gentlemanly look has stuck with us as always

with the hunting jackets, corduroy trousers and

trench coats, giving any man a right of passage

through the styling stakes. There is no other

designer to look at for trench coats other than

Burberry. This spectacular British designer has been

making Trench coats since 1895 and you wont find

a better quality. The perfect trench for 2013 would

be the Burberry London cotton twill for 995. The

deep berry colour will have you looking smart and

sophisticated for the whole of the winter season.

We may not live in Antarctica, but the British

weather does not hold back when it comes to the

cold. The fabrics

involved are too

include dense wool

fabrics, lama types

and moleskin. These

fabrics will keep

you snug and warm

as well as looking

sophisticated and

cool, youll feel like the King of Scotland in these

fabrics. Why not invest in the Paul Smith Jeans

knitted wool jumper for 175. The textures of the

wool and the mixtures of blue and the white will

have you pushing that cold back in the opposite

direction.

Coloured denim is making a splash next Autumn, so as well

as the understated tones of the British A/W colour pallet,

why not take a risk a buy yourself a pair of red skinny jeans

and have the people of Britain turning their heads for all the

right reasons. Ted Baker has

taken the coloured denim in

exactly the right direction.

The Seano slim fit coloured

denim in green will help to

compliment you in a smart

white shirt and the Burberry

trench coat.

The colours of the British

winters are always dull and unexciting, this A/W collections

will see designers warm up the cities outfits with browns, reds

and sherrys. If you feel like being a bit more adventurous in

the colours you wear next winter then why not add hints of

heather and sky blue to your outfit.

For once British Autumn/ Winter fashion is being steered

in the direction of colour. We are styling through our British

heritage with our heads held high and feeling more patriotic

than ever. So, as long as we make it through the end of the

world. Lets raise our glasses and give a hurrah to mens British

Fashion and the exciting future it has ahead.WThis A/W collections will see designers warm up the cities outfits with browns, reds and

sherrys

OCTOBER 2012|45

seasons

Subscribe to

STATUREE ach quarter, Stature brings you the latest news on all things fashion. Whether youre looking to find out what to expect from next

season, or for some friendly advice on what new garments

to invest your money in, Stature strives to show you the cutting edge of all things luxury, before they happen.

All our content is written especially for you, and in the

format it was intended to be read in - you wont find any

of our print articles on our website, nor vice versa, just as

youd expect.

We have a dedicated team of full time staff that spend their

time carefully crafting each issue. They make sure every-thing is as it should be, so that by the time you receive your

copy of Stature, its much more that just a magazine - its and entire lifestyle experience.

Name:____________________________________________

Address:___________________________________________

__________________________________________________

__________________________________________________

__________________________________________________

Contact Number:____________________________________

Email:_____________________________________________

Thank You

46 |OCTOBER 2012