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standards talk/ACCT 2008 1
context
standards talk/ACCT 2008 2
design and construction of safety systems
standards talk/ACCT 2008 3
talk objectives
standards talk/ACCT 2008 4
structure
standards talk/ACCT 2008 5
my sinister puppeteers
standards talk/ACCT 2008 6
climbing, teaching, research,
modeling, consumption
of German beer, napping through
UIAA meetings
I’m not a guide, so I can’t tell you how to climb.
standards talk/ACCT 2008 7
my motivation
keeping people off the ground
aiding and abetting my puppeteers
harmonization of standards
standards talk/ACCT 2008 8
standards talk/ACCT 2008 9
physics
finalinitial PP =a
dtdvv
dtds
== ,
∑ = maF
finalinitial UU =
2m/s 8.9=a
-5
10152025
3035
-40 -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 30 40Placement Angle, Degrees
Failu
re L
oad,
kN
WI-S WI-FAI-S AI-FHarmston LuebbenDAV/OAV WI-S Long
(b)
-20
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
0 10 20
force 1 (dN)
force 2 (dN)
standards talk/ACCT 2008 10
physiology
10 G
2 kW/m2
BIGHEAD
standards talk/ACCT 2008 11
psychology
safety factor ~10
safety factor ~5
safety factor ~0.2
Climbing entails the assumption of risk.
standards talk/ACCT 2008 12
standards talk/ACCT 2008 13
standards bodies
ANSI ASTM NFPA
ISO UIAA CWA
CEN/CE/
EU/PPEREI ACCT
standards talk/ACCT 2008 14
appearances
EN standard image from EN 12275, BSI 1998 UIAA standard image from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.phppictorial images © P Schubert & N McMillan; from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
standards talk/ACCT 2008 15
behind the standards
independent testing of equipment
ISO 9001:2000
round robin testing of test labs
inter-lab “recommendations for use”
annual meeting
testing, dissemination of info…
standards talk/ACCT 2008 16
utility of standards
extinction of inadequate equipment
base line for design
paper trail for liability & regulation
busted gear images from DAV Sicherheitskreis Taetigkeitsbericht 1980-1983
standards talk/ACCT 2008 17
standards talk/ACCT 2008 18
UIAA standards, force on climber
standards talk/ACCT 2008 19
proposed UIAA standards• dynamic rope sharp edge test• via ferrata structures• artificial climbing structures
(ice & “rock”)• belay/rappel devices• crash pads• lanyards• …
standards talk/ACCT 2008 20
progression tools
pictorial images © P Schubert & N McMillan; from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
standards talk/ACCT 2008 21
tie off tools
pictorial images © P Schubert & N McMillan; from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
standards talk/ACCT 2008 22
trad climbing protection
pictorial images © P Schubert & N McMillan; from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
standards talk/ACCT 2008 23
carabiners
pictorial images © P Schubert & N McMillan; from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
standards talk/ACCT 2008 24
bolts (anchors)
pictorial images © P Schubert & N McMillan; from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
standards talk/ACCT 2008 25
sewn slings
pictorial images © P Schubert & N McMillan; from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
standards talk/ACCT 2008 26
harnesses
pictorial images © P Schubert & N McMillan; from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
standards talk/ACCT 2008 27
via ferrata energy absorbing systems (EAS)
pictorial images © P Schubert & N McMillan; from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
standards talk/ACCT 2008 28
helmets
pictorial images © P Schubert & N McMillan; from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
standards talk/ACCT 2008 29
pulleys
pictorial images © P Schubert & N McMillan; from http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
standards talk/ACCT 2008 30
ropes
standards talk/ACCT 2008 31
standards talk/ACCT 2008 32
the shape of the equipment space
• assumes use of dynamic rope• onus on user to inspect & reject• single pull test to failure, no fatigue test• no corrosion testing• test is done on unused equipment in controlled circumstance
• safety factors may be less than 1
standards talk/ACCT 2008 33
standards hot spotsno belay/rappel devices
normalization of test loads
testing data issues (helmet round robins, ice…)
testing lab in the US
new odd things for new odd climbing niches
standards branching
standards talk/ACCT 2008 34
whither?climbing popularity → increased standards activity
increased emphasis on use, ergonomics, and psychology
increased systems analysis
increased self certifiable criteria
US based, independent testing
new standards for new branches of climbing
increased education of user
standards talk/ACCT 2008 35
sources and resources
http://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa_safety_labels.php
http://web.mit.edu/sp255/www/bib.html
http://www.bergundsteigen.at/http://www.alpenverein.de/template_loader.php?tplpage_id=84
http://www.nsai.ie/
https://www.sabs.co.za/
standards talk/ACCT 2008 36
questions
