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S/
S 12
S/S 12
Join us in celebration of the 10th golden edition of MUSE. As always it is dedicated to
designer collections and key looks exclusive at AlOthman, giving you instant access to what
you desire for the forthcoming season.
I never expected that MUSE would have grown to such an essential part of AlOthman; all I
can say is we are delighted to be able to offer you the opportunity to review such remarkable
collections.
Following the success of MUSE and prior to this edition, we launched a new publication
dedicated purely to our Resort designers, Snapshots MUSE. As these Resort collections
have grown our repertoire has too. The look book gives you the opportunity to be the first to
view the latest trends and designs hitting our stores’ floors. From your positive response, I am
very appreciative of the acclaim and popularity of Snapshots MUSE.
So once again I thank the team and the designers for their help and hard work on this new
dimension from an old favorite. I would also like to express gratitude to our fellow readers,
whose continued encouragement inspires us to create and celebrate our AlOthman
publication, MUSE.
Enjoy.
Your MUSE10 Crosby Derek Lam
Alessandra Rich
Alexander Wang
Alice
Alice and Olivia
Azzaro
Balmain
Carolina Herrera
Christian Louboutin
Christian Siriano
Collette Dinnigan
Costume National
David Szeto
Derek Lam
Diane Von Furstenberg
Edun
Elie Saab
Elizabeth and James
Erdem
Erin
Hakaan
Huishan Zhang
Isabel Marant
J. Mendel
Jason Wu
Jonathan Saunders
Lela Rose
Marchesa
Marios Schwab
Matthew Williamson
Michael Angel
Monique Lhuillier
Naeem Khan
Nicholas Kirkwood
Oscar de la Renta
Peter Pilotto
brand directory
Check out our blog
www.alothmanblog.com
Peter Som
Pierre Balmain
Prabal Gurung
Preen
Proenza Schouler
Rabih Kayrouz
Rachel Zoe
Randa Khalil Raad Jewellery
Roksanda Ilincic
Roland Mouret
Shi
Tashia
Temperley London
Theyskens’ Theory
Thierry Mugler
The Row
Vera Wang
Vera Wang Lavender
Victoria Beckham
VICTORIA Victoria Beckham
VPL
Zac Posen
Z Spoke
Zero + Maria Cornejo
bridal
Ashi
Carolina Herrera
Christian Louboutin
Elie Saab
Marchesa
Monique Lhuillier
Oscar de la Renta
Rabih Kayrouz
Vera Wang
BLAC
K AN
D W
HIT
E VO
L.2
Seeing these two colors in sync never gets old, however, Spring 2012 runways had brought them back bolder and more dramatic than ever! Translucent prints were embraced by Peter Pilotto and Diane Von Furstenberg, and show-stopping dresses finished with luxe detailing graced Oscar de la Renta’s runway. There’s just something about the color combo that is classically chic yet modern, resulting in a look that carries effortlessly from day to night.
Nothing compliments sun-kissed skin better than bright yellow clothing. The color took center stage in shades of marigold, canary, and full blown citron yellow on the catwalks of Jason Wu, Oscar de la Renta, and Christian Siriano’s runways. Brighten up your outfits this Spring and pick up the vibrant hue on garments, bags, and shoes.
The black and white look does not have to encompass your entire outfit. Add a pop of color with a turquoise over-the-top necklace or a pair of jewel tone heels.
ZESTY YELLOW
Prab
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urun
g
Christian Louboutin
Pete
r Pilo
tto
VICT
ORI
A Vi
ctor
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eckh
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Dia
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on F
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rgAl
ice
and
Oliv
ia
Alic
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d O
livia
Ales
sand
ra R
ich
Christian Siriano
Der
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am
Chris
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Siria
noZero
+ M
aria
Cor
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J. M
ende
l
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ta
Osc
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Ren
ta
Osc
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Ren
ta
Oscar de la Renta
Osc
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Ren
ta Jaso
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u
Give yourself a dramatic eye
with black kohl and thick lashes,
while keeping the rest of the
look fresh, light, and summery.
Vict
oria
Bec
kham
UN
DER
TH
E SE
A SAFARI CHIC
Cool down the summer heat by diving into invigorating aquatic colors, and mirror the ocean waves by wearing tones of blue and green in digitalized and artistic prints; as inspired by the runway looks of Peter Pilotto, Matthew Williamson, and Proenza Schouler.
Designers like Derek Lam, Michael Angel, and Peter Pilotto seemed to have gone on an urban safari to bring back wild tribal prints and colors in their collections. Ethnic type linear patterns and earthy color combinations are making a loud yet chic choice for dresses this season.
Allow the oceanic colors to flow by pairing them with your favorite nude heels, and compliment the hue with coral or pearlized jewels. Take cue from the Spring models and finish off the look with a sleek ponytail or up-do.
Monique Lhuillier
Mat
thew
Will
iam
son
Proe
nza
Scho
uler
Pete
r Som
VICTORIAVictoria Beckham
Der
ek L
amM
atth
ew W
illia
mso
n
Jona
than
Sau
nder
s
Proe
nza
Scho
uler
Mic
hael
Ang
el
10 C
rosb
y D
erek
Lam
Pete
r Pilo
tto
Oscar de la Renta
Zero + Maria Cornejo
Pete
r Pilo
tto
Jason Wu
Edun
Nicholas Kirkwood
Elie
Saa
b
Zac
Pose
n
Channel your inner jungle queen
with statement accessories: think
bold colorful necklaces, piles of silver
bangles, and large cocktail rings.
GIM
ME
SUM
PEP
LUM
Waists were given an instant hourglass shape with pretty peplums over runway skirts, jackets, dresses, and even jumpsuits! Whether it’s a light ruffle à la Preen, or an exaggerated overskirt as seen at Jason Wu, this trend is a proven fun and quirky accent to any minimalist ensemble.
Don’t let your shoulders and neck compete with your waist, so avoid tops or jackets with exaggerated detailing and ruffles. Just slip into those killer heels with your hands around your waist and flaunt it!
Alic
e an
d O
livia
Jaso
n W
u
Jaso
n W
u
Mar
ches
a
Vera Wang
Lela
Ros
e
Preen
Mar
ches
a
Hui
shan
Zha
ng
Hui
shan
Zha
ng
THE O BLOGa l o t h m a n b l o g . c o m
AlOthman Blog is the number one destination for fashion enthusiasts and shopaholics in Kuwait. It provides a daily editorial of the hottest and most sought after designer clothes and accessories carried by AlOthman. This issue, we present you with a special Q&A with Roksanda Ilincic.
What matters to you most as a fashion
designer?
What's yourfavorite city?
I actually have two favoritecities. Belgrade is where I grew up
and will always be home to me in a way. I now live in London though and I love
it. There is so much going on in so many cultural fields that you always feel that
you are at the centre of something exciting. I love going back to Belgrade for the wonderful food and weather though, it beats London with both.
What are your favorite colors to
work with and why?
You have visited the Gulf region before, what
was your impression about the women of the
region?
Color is hugely important and inspiring to me. I’m
afraid that consequently my favorites change
every season.
Most definitely, it is actually already
underway so you’ll be seeing it very soon!
Now that you have a baby, do you ever plan
on creating a children's clothing line?
Very beautiful and veryexpressive in their style. I found
them drawn to bold, individual pieces and to having something
really unique. They also have such an awareness of quality that they
appreciate exquisite craftsmanship and beautiful fabrics.
A Chat With
That my clothes make a difference
to the women wearing them.
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Alessandra Rich
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Trucolor, extra-sweet and excessive, the VEGAS woman by Alessandra Rich has just rewound ‘Johnny Guitar’ and she’s dressing, bow at her neck and a belt on her waist, ready to place her poker chips on the table.
Sexy, shining and loud, she wears column dresses open on the side with soft drapes that wrap her hips. Lace, paillettes, lurex, cady and crepe de chine are the fabrics that outline her silhouette. Navy blue, black, red, gun metal and cream are the colours that she prefers, when she doesn’t let herself go to the lightness of the colourful polka dots. To disrupt the geometry of the collection there are sudden straight splits in the middle of the skirts, balloon sleeves with layers of organza, micro lace socks, the marinière in lurex and strong gold buckles for the belts.
Tell me something nice. Tell me VEGAS.
With a fragmented hand, speed, racing and a sense of endangerment are abstractly captured in the Spring 2012 collection. The speed and velocity of high performance sports like dirt biking and NASCAR racing are reflected through variations of mesh and technical methods of lasering, burn-outs and perforation. The presence of mesh recurs bringing an x-ray effect that encourages fluidity when applied to stiff fabrics and leathers. When shown out of context, fabrics are reinterpreted to feel bourgeois, like double faced organza and silk taffeta.Prints play an important role this season and are repeated throughout the collection, such as a feminine botanical print that is collaged and patterned; in some instances, fade to white. The sports theme is referenced again in a more literal regard in prints that are emblems of stadium seating and roadway signs.A more controlled silhouette is introduced for Spring with cinched waists and oversized panels create a peplum profile. The color palate stays neutral with petrol blue, deep burgundy, chalky white, palm, mint, and a pop of emergency orange. For accessories, underworld sea creatures inspire the range with materials of parrot fish, perch and rubberized stingray.
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Alexander Wang
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Alice and Olivia
For the Spring 2012 collection for alice + olivia, Stacey Bendet fine tunes her unpredictable style and innovative thinking to create a playfully curated landscape that evokes the notion of a very secret garden. While visually striking and spontaneous, the collection also reads as romantic and free-spirited – referencing a-line shifts, miniskirts, and colors of Palm Beach in the 1960’s and a modern nod to the 1940’s for some chic sophistication – an element intrinsic to Bendet’s animated and dynamic design mantra.
“This collection is happiness. It’s playful and spirited and it speaks to what a girl wants to feel like and look like from one day to the next…. sexy, chic, fun. She has personality and so does her clothing,” says Stacey Bendet.
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Azzaro
This collection revisits the heritage of Loris Azzaro, using his signature looks: The legendary jersey, crepe, the flattering ruching, the metallic piping, the precious Swarovski crystal embroideries, the scandalous black and gold coloring straight from the Studio 54 mixed with sharp silhouettes inspired from the Crazy Horse.
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Vegas,Western style, Elvis…
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Balmain
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The German art movement has inspired the famous international designer’s new Spring/Summer 2012 collection, where clean lines and vibrant colors play a leading role.
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Carolina Herrera
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Christian Siriano
"
"
My spring 2012 collection is about casual luxury, the type of looks that work well for the woman who's fond of traveling in style, a mix of luxurious sophistication and ease. I imagine her visiting beaches around the world, traveling to them by air and by sea, and echoing in her wardrobe the things she sees from the shores of Bali, Honduras, or Belize. I thought about the origins of the creatures that come from under those waters, the textures and colors that develop deep in the sea in dark and mysterious depths. I loved the idea that they come from a dark place but develop with such vibrant color and intricate design. Through fabric manipulation, the right tailoring, and using textured brocades and luxe silks, I offer a marriage of feminine and masculine within the same look. A great visual inspiration for this collection was Katharine Hepburn's wardrobe and movement in the 1955 film "Summertime." As Jane Hudson, she arrives in Venice sporting chic white summer dresses, wide-leg men's trousers, and tailored silk blouses. I hope that this collection will similarly inspire any woman who wears it. My goal is, as always, to make my customer feel special when she is getting dressed. - Christian Siriano
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Collette Dinnigan
"Her beauty drowned me. As I sat before her, I felt I would do anything she asked of me." Anais Nin
Dangerously provocative, absolutely revealing, lingerie and lace, fragile and unpredictable, liquid satin, limited edition.
28 29
David Szeto
Spring summer 2012 was inspired by Japan, their traditional textile, and mix of prints on traditional Kimonos. There are elements of geishas and Japanese modern day street style. Aluminium chains trim the bottoms of t-shirts jacket and dresses are the street elements, brush strokes in metal studs decorate the bottoms of pleated skirts, dresses and the hems of Kimonos. The cut is close to the body at times and mixed with volume; A-line or Kimono shapes for contrast.The collection also includes pieces from my Archive collection, which are pieces from past seasons made in new fabric or colours, occasionally slightly altered. – David Szeto
"
"
30 3130
Derek Lam
When I am doing a little California dreamin’, I am in a beautifully appointed Mid-century home, like the Kaufmann house in Palm Springs, by Richard Neutra. The clean minimal interior, the wide open desert landscape, the informality of living in nature yet also sheltered in rational and soul warming architecture; that is my mind wandering to a place of salubrious comfort. But it’s not all strict lines and raw space. Somewhere, there is Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack crooning by the piano and Angie Dickenson is lounging by a crystal blue pool. Mid-century louche and luxury, in my dreams… – Derek Lam
31
"
"
32 33
The light appears and everything changes.– Diane von Furstenberg
and Yvan Mispelaere
32
Diane Von Furstenberg
""
34 35
Edun
For the Spring Summer 2012 Women’s Collection Edun juxtaposes iconic floral and African prints, bringing two contrasting worlds together in signature Edun style.
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36 3736 37
Thanks to daring and vibrant color pairings, summer is looking intense at ELIE SAAB.
The show opens with a series of white looks that quickly evolve toward ocre, peach, emerald green and lapis blue.
Little by little, a bold color story illuminates daywear, from cape-sleeved chiffon dresses to a perfectly cut, deep purple-blue pantsuit; feminine, sensual pleated crêpe georgette and lace layering on skirts.
In counterpoint to diaphanous gowns, graphic lines, precise cutouts and lace inserts offer a new, modern definition of daywear.
For evening, a ripple of matte sequins over the bust rivals the allure of a backless dress; day dresses come to life with the discreet shine of pebbles in a riverbed. A series of Klein blue dresses embroidered with unique sequins shimmer with almost stellar depth.
A collection of rare ingenuity and detail, created to suggest rather than show.
Elie Saab
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Elie Saab
Elizabeth and James Spring 2012 embarks on a nomadic adventure perfect for the girl who needs instantly chic options for her urban jungle. From mixed tribal prints to activewear inspired separates, this season combines garçon chic appeal in slouchy silhouettes, and day-to-night fabrics.Ready-to-wear renders a modern, eclectic wardrobe with tribal motifs, neon pops, sequin Ikat patterns and an infusion of athletica. Silk drawstring culottes, zippered track jackets and menswear trousers with bold racing stripes complete a wearable, urban palette. Suiting is deconstructed in washed treatments and a cocktail of vivid colors. Boudoir-chic kimono dresses and palazzo pyjama pants in Pacific blossom prints escape the bedroom for unexpected street style.
40 41
Elizabeth and James
42 43
Recalling the stylized summers of Françoise Sagan's ‘Bonjour Tristesse’ and Wong Kar Wai’s ‘In the Mood for Love,’ Spring Summer 2012 imagines a young girl playfully trying on adult clothes, revealing a transformation from an innocent, modern girl into a Visconti heroine.
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Erdem
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Erin
This season Erin Fetherston's romantic aesthetic is infused with bold color and vivid print, expressing a cheerful and sprightly mood for Spring 2012. Inspired by the clean and modern silhouettes of the sixties, Fetherston takes Mia Farrow as her muse. The designer offers a series of re-imagined shift dresses in structured fabrics like cotton pique, cotton silk, guipure and metallic jacquard in addition to her iconic assortment of lighter than air dresses in fabrics like chiffon, voile, and lace. Embellishment is a key part of the story, with an intricate medley of pearls, sequins, rhinestones and beads adorning necklines and plackets. Fetherston's signature mix of ivory, blush, black and navy is intensified with sorbet inspired shades of popsicle pink, tangerine, and lemon meringue. Butterflies are the principle motif for the season, presented in oversized prints on chiffon and in graphic repeat on charmeuse. Fetherston ultimately creates a collection of easy to wear pieces that are fresh, poetic and playfully chic.
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Hakaan
The collection is about a futuristic touch of Africa. The cuts, embroidery and details were the proofs that African influences doesn't need to be interpreted as ethnic. This season, Hakaan has re-interpreted the African prints on the embroidery and the volumes on the skirts and dresses in such a modern way that their 'ethnicity' seems to fade away. Touches of neutral colors as black, white, beige and a glimpse of yellow remains us of the nature. Hand sewn embroidered pieces in gold revisited the classical African hand made embroidery with a modern touch. Natural fabrics such as silk, crêpe, silk chiffon, organza and satin is a journey from the ancient era to another modern, futuristic and unexpected.
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Isabel Marant
Baroudeuse chic. - Isabel Marant
" "
50 5150
Jason Wu
For his Spring/Summer 2012 Collection, Jason wanted to combine iconic Haute Couture shapes with Pop Art influences. The graphic contrast of the opposing concepts is a strong theme of the collection.
He plays with graphic Pop Art references and a bold color statement throughout the collection. Jason collaborated with artist KAWS on a floating petal print bestowed with the artist’s signature “hands” motif, a playful nod to the workmanship and the number of hands involved in creating a garment. Vibrant colors play a prominent role in the collection including shocking pink, electric blue and pop yellow that are shown on dresses, skirts, and cloud-like evening gowns. Jason worked with Swarovski Elements to create abstract three dimensional “electrified” embroideries mixed with laser cut sequins to reinforce the Pop Art reference-taking beautiful techniques and injecting them with a jolt of modern energy.
For evening Jason created an ivory houndstooth lace top and re-embroidered it with ivory bugle beads to create depth and texture, the idea of reinterpreting the original material harks back to the collection theme. The finale features floating gazer gowns in an array of pop colors. The bold color palette carries over into accessories with blue and green “painted” python handbags. The photonegative floral print is shown in a leather handbag. The black lace-up stilettos and multi-strap sandals with ankle-cuff offers a tough contrast to the feminine silhouette of the collection
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Jonathan Saunders
"1950's silhouettes meeting the pastelly shades of Miami Beach. - Jonathan Saunders"
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Lela Rose
Lela Rose Spring 2012 centers around the neon graveyard.... the unrestored and broken signs that dot the landscape of Las Vegas and Coney Island.
Bleached metallic tweed, stripped paint twill, and washed out voile recall what was a garish glow of the new that have now faded overtime to tell a story of what was.
Letter blocked silhouettes and chipped embroidery evoke the weathered stacked signs of Las Vegas, while cyclone prints, carnival stretch cotton, and dotted blocked knits bring a Coney Island “funhouse” vibe.
Guipure light bulb lace, fringed organza, and border jacquards, highlighted in colors such as faded lemon, periwinkle and neon tangerine, give an electric buzz to the collection.
The mood and palette of Marchesa’s Spring 2012 collection is inspired by a painting of a deep sea world entitled Sadko in the Underwater Kingdom. In this painting, artist Ilya Repin beautifully portrays a scene of an ethereal and exquisite under water fantasy. To translate the aura of this image the collection blends tulle, chiffon and translucent colored mesh with custom accents such as scale like embroidery, silk fish thread work and hand sculpted metallic and silk fringe cascades. A series of Ernest Haeckel drawings of flowing tentacles and multicolored jellyfish also served an inspiration for the collections various embroideries and dress artwork.
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Marchesa
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Marios Schwab
The spring summer 2012 collection is inspired by the stark contrast between light and dark - Chiarascuro. It is an attitude embodied in the shaded faces of Film Noir heroines, in the women of Mediterranean Neorealist cinema and in the photography of Herb Ritts.
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Matthew Williamson
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What might a city dweller dream of when she imagines hot climes and holidays?Well, hothouse colours, languid silhouettes, and come dusk, something sensational – feathers, sequins, and incredible embroideries – to set the night ablaze, of course. This season, Matthew Williamson has his heroine dreaming of Japan. Eschewing notions of traditional kimonos and obi belts (Williamson’s girl is an individualist at heart who plunders from a global melting pot of ideas and inspirations) – the starting point of spring/summer ’12 comes from a less obvious source: Japanese textiles, ceramics, and antique heirlooms.
Stylized prints are at the core of this collection, and this season they come highly worked. Williamson’s love of the far flung and exotic, played off against an urban sensibility is always at the fore, and this season those two worlds collide to mesmerizing effect in a single print. A pretty blossom print outlined in a neon haze displays incredible detail – look closer and you’ll see miniature Tokyo night scenes inserted into the silhouetted flowers. Other blossom prints are computer generated and so stretched and distorted that they begin to take on an ikat graphic. These ideas led Williamson to research the work of British artist, Matt Collishaw, feted for his arresting digital imagery, and as a result the third print in this series takes on a more abstract display of form and colour. Larger scale, the blossom buds are supersized and corroded into a neon painterly effect, while finally, other prints are reduced and flipped vertically to make a mirror image.
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Prints and colors this season are inspired by 1920's photographs of Alexandria and personal family photographs. It is an examination of my heritage; a once decadent civilization I've revisited with an understated embellishment that is almost futuristic. Technology and progression in fabrication and printing techniques echo the advancement of the Ancient Egyptians. - Michael Angel
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Michael Angel
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Monique Lhuillier
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Spring 2012 is all about bold saturated colors with a sporty athletic edge.With women more into fitness and healthy lifestyles. I compliment their physique using intricate seaming to outline the body.The use of color blocking and accents of leather add an unexpected edge.Evening is all about sexy silhouettes, open backs, cut-outs with lace insets, and graphic prints infused with cadmium yellow and cobalt blue. -Monique Lhuillier
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Naeem Khan
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Old Hollywood with a Spanish twist. -Naeem Khan
""
Nicholas Kirkwood's inspiration for Spring Summer 2012 is derived from the concept of a spring garden of bold colours and the idea of soft femininity. 'I just wanted to present styles that were lighter and more feminine' says Kirkwood. Nicholas Kirkwood instills the idea of dark romanticism with engineered prints in bold colours that subvert the lighter feel of the garden inspiration with 'corseting' on the toe and heel, and manipulates what appears to be a garden of flowers, but is in fact birds with their wings spread. The collection also focuses on transparent and irridescent materials, and Kirkwood creates volume coming off the foot to recreate floral forms in a variety of silhouettes. The SS12 collection also introduces lower heel heights and a flat slipper in an array of colours that embody Nicholas Kirkwood's precise attention to line, proportion and sophistication.
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Nicholas Kirkwood
Oscar de la Renta
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Oscar de la Renta
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Oscar de la Renta
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Peter Pilotto
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An amazing trip through the Java Island, through jungles, tea, coffee, cacao and tree plantations, volcano craters and sulphuric smokes. What an incredible adventure... -Peter Pilotto
""
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Peter Som
Spring 12 is all about bold saturated colors and hyper-feminine prints mixed with super-clean geometric silhouettes. - Peter Som
""
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Prabal Gurung
82 83
This season draws from Nobuyashi Araki’s photographic series, “Sensual Flower.” These flowers are beautifully subversive, layered, and at further glance are very representative of Araki’s work – nuanced with a feminist twist and perverse undertone. The pieces are beautifully crafted with quiet strength and femininity expressed through Gurung’s signature attention to form, structure and detail. For the seventh consecutive season, the collection is styled by Tiina Laakkonen with casting by John Pfeiffer.
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Virginia, Preen’s Spring/ Summer 2012 collection is titled for their musings on English author Virginia Wolfe. Thornton and Bregazzi’s directional brand of quiet luxury continues to explore their perennial themes of proportion and modernity in kaleidoscopic hues.
Handcrafted flounces lend structure to the simple silhouette. These delicate compositions in faggoted silk and crepe bestow a scarce romanticism on the bold geometry of the prints. Like modern heirlooms the botanical prints and paisleys are digitalized and feature on separates layered with a metallic pixilated organza. The symmetrical monochrome print is scattered in antique beading and sequins. Heavy lace is textured or laminated. Preen flirt with the placement of the waistline: deftly switching from high and ladylike, cut close to the body to fluidity and the drop-waist. Their sense of tailoring remains. A lemon coloured trouser suit sits low and loose fitting.
Light, delicate and powerful: nothing to be afraid of.
Preen
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Proenza Schouler
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Inspired by mid-century futurism and America’s lost architecture, the spring 2012 collection contrasts an ultra-feminine silhouette with retro-moderne motifs. Tailored suiting is reworked in double face nylon jersey. Crochet and laminated knits are contrasted with embroidered raffia and striped eel. Sulfur, powder blue and bottle green tech crepe suiting is accented with contrasting prints and smocking details, followed by fern and hibiscus-printed tops, skirts, pants and dresses. Eel skirts worn with embroidered tulle tops and dresses close the show. Platform shoes, a combination of synthetic materials like rubber and stingray with a faux-wood finish, are worn throughout, and paired with handbags ranging from metallic oversize duffles, to stingray and woven tiki clutches and leather camera cases.
Exclusive to
My goal with this collection was to make fashion accessible to those who love luxury and glamour. The concept for the collection was modeled after the glamour and edge of my '60s fashion icons like Brigitte Bardot and Edie Sedgwick mixed with the styles of '70s bohemian goddesses like Bianca Jagger and Faye Dunaway. I wanted to match their playful ability to mix gowns, tweeds, furs and tuxedos with everyday pieces - putting a modern spin on classic silhouettes. - Rachel Zoe
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Rachel Zoe
Sporty couture is shaping up to be a big trend for Spring, but it's something Roksanda Ilincic began injecting into her cocktail-y fare last season. The way Ilincic does it, however, the reference isn't as literal as we've seen in the past couple weeks. Her main concern, she said backstage, is how to make the old-school craftsmanship and silhouettes that she reveres relevant to a modern woman.
Perhaps a more apt term would be sportswear couture. That means casual chic, exquisitely considered. That high-low merger isn't a new concept, but when done right, it can be the ultimate in luxury. Take a boxy T-shirt cut in peony pink silk gazar tucked into a beautifully gathered paper-bag skirt, all pulled together with a bright rope belt and a groovy beanie knitted from silk faille ribbons.
The sophisticated slouch -emphasis on sophisticated- had newness to it. The designer experimented with fabrics, too. A boyish little suit was cut from navy and white raffia. The nubbly textured fabric pieced with silk on tees and drop-shouldered coats looked like bouclé but turned out to be terry. A navy crinkle cotton isn't something you expect here, either, but looked pretty fab in a knotted-waist dress and sweatpants. Still, her color sense is sharp, so within the context of the collection, it formed a cohesive whole.
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Roksanda Ilincic
It's about finding that tiny corner of paradise for your summer holiday - those little corners that still exist, perhaps a little village in the South of France, that have not yet been made all shiny and mass market by tourism. These clothes are about making it your responsibility to dress for that view of paradise - it's a crafty attitude to the clothes, a touch of the bohemian attitude that lets you be part of that postcard.
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Roland Mouret
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Temperley London
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Spring Summer 2012 draws inspiration from the silver screen, namely Grace Kelly in High Society and movie stills of Michelle Pfeiffer in Scarface. The resultant collection is elegant, sensual and ultra glamorous.
A play on transparencies is combined with a supremely feminine silhouette that is both elongated and body conscious. Soft tuxedo looks are given a twist, with tailored satins that sit alongside crystal encrusted gowns, creating a synergy between both day and evening and giving the collection a new focus on luxury.
The result is a decadent, high octane collection of timeless pieces that are integrally Temperley in celebration of their tenth anniversary.
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Theyskens’ Theory
How should a cool girl dress? And what pieces should be put together to create the right silhouette with the right proportions with a specific jacket or pant?
All these questions were what drove Olivier Theyskens’ inspiration to create the spring-summer 2012 collection for. The looks are put together by thinking of how women combine shapes, fabrics, and styles: a tweed jacket with a slouchy low waist washed denim, a little black dress with a leather jacket, casual shorts with a fitted suit jacket…Basics become special and unique with an extra something to give each piece a twist: classic tweeds with a hint of iridescence or clutch-pockets, embroideries embellish a classic cardigan, shiny silks contrast with washed-out denims, hand-embroidered delicate lace confront super casual jerseys, traditional hand crochet juxtapose ultra modern nylon gauze…
The girl knows what she likes to wear and finds the right way to put those pieces together, making her style relaxed, yet elegant; smooth, yet stylish; ultra modern, yet chic; never aggressive and not overly fashionable!
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Thierry Mugler
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This season’s Mugler womenswear collection is based upon the idea of stream of consciousness and abstraction. Taking as a starting point the notion of the desert and its fluidity, the collection traverses such diverse influences as Georgia O’Keeffe and her Ghost Ranch, the films ‘Dune’ and ‘Zabriskie Point’, Grecian drapery and ceremony as well as deconstructed memories of Mugler past.‘We are essentially deconstructing a remembered history of Mugler rather than a ‘real’ archival one – it is about remembering rather than studying,’ says Mugler’s Creative Director Nicola Formichetti. ‘It’s the things that really struck me about what Thierry Mugler was doing when I was growing up that have had such an impact on me. It is that idea of recollection when I was a teenager that I was interested in. It is about emotion and memory and something forming and abstract rather than complete. This is what is reflected in the clothing. I wanted it to be essentially about the clothes this season. We concentrated on the idea of the silhouettes.’
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Vera Wang
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An exploration of tailoring and transparency – collages of texture and detail..18th century French wallpaper distored to abstract effect while pale macarons and aggressive hem brights prodvide a “trippy” counterpoint to the modernity of pure whites.
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VICTORIA Victoria Beckham
The new line ‘Victoria, Victoria Beckham’ represents the free spirited side to Victoria Beckham and is a seamless progression from the Victoria Beckham ready-to-wear.
Inspired initially by the cartoon character Emily the Strange, ‘Victoria, Victoria Beckham’ offers a range of dresses that are relaxed and fun and impeccably constructed in the finest fabrics. Colours and colour blocking feature heavily alongside an interjection of new conversational prints that have been painstakingly developed to reflect the personality of the collection.The Cutie-cat and Victoria Cat prints are key in encapsulating the playful mood of the range, while the cloud and moon motifs that feature embrace a more sophisticated element.
Victoria says, “This new line serves to channel my inner girl – it is fun and young with a distinct sense of humour. I wanted to create a collection that reaches out to a new customer. The Victoria range can’t help but make you smile with its energy and personality”.
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Victoria Beckham
For Spring/Summer 2012 the Victoria Beckham ready to wear collection offers a strongly focussed range of dresses and outerwear.
Taking inspiration from geometric lines while enhancing these with her own take on elegant sportswear and her synonymous signature silhouettes, Victoria has created a clean collection full of intricate yet subtle detailing that reflects her strong yet simple approach to the season.
Powerful yet quietly applied structure is apparent from the fitted forms of the signature dresses through to the relaxed volumes and lines of the outerwear, while the drop waist is a key feature that can be seen not only in feather light pleat skirts but is also carried through in seam details and colour block applications.
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Zac Posen
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Inspired by the female form, this collection incorporates archetypal feminine techniques such as ruffles, embroidery, and lace, with Zac Posen’s signature silhouettes and construction.
Vibrant colors of peony, celadon, and blade green, combine with floral bouquet prints and detailed corded embroidery to create a collection perfect for the American royalty of today.
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Zero + Maria Cornejo
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“I love the feeling of an urban summer; fabrics that feel like the beach but toughened up somehow - just a bit edgier”, says Maria Cornejo.
A calculated notion of urban structure as layers fold and pleat; volume flattens out and gets a toughened up edge. There is a new deliberation in the draping - closer to the body – a rigid bright colored belt tucked through a printed silk dress or skirt adds a bit of hardness and controls the fluidity.
Colors have the bold intensity of summer heat - yellow, scarlet, clementine, under the clearest blues of a summer sky - bic, cobalt, Yves Klein. But then, to cleanse the palette: the calm of optical white, chalk and silver and the graphic lines of a clashing jacquard in black, ink, red and white.
Digital prints are this time from photographs taken during a visit to the Musée du Quai Branly in Paris. A Bolivian Devil becomes a blur of neon yellow abstraction; an African headdress becomes a brilliant red, white and black Feather Print; and the Geo Print in cobalt silk or in monotone ink and silver cotton twill, started as a workman glimpsed setting up an exhibition.
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For inquiries email: [email protected]
Maryam Complex - Mezzanine Floor, Salem Al-Mubarak Street, Salmiya, Kuwait - Tel + 965 2575 4958 Designed by
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Maryam Complex, Mezzanine floorReady to Wear: +965 2575 4953 • Accessories: +965 2575 4960