SPORT CLIMBSHORI BAY

OCTOBER 2014 EDITIONClimbing near Nelson, New Zealand

Another day at The Beach

Hori Bay

Hori Bay, New Zealand

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     The Beach1 5     The Arena2 6     The Sideshow3 8

Sport Climbs: Hori Bay © Copyright 2014 by KiwiTracks and Guides Limited. All rights reserved. Nopart of this book may be used or reproduced in any

manner whatsoever without written permissionexcept in the case of brief quotations embodied in

critical articles or reviews.

October 2014 edition. For updates go towww.kiwitracks.co.nz

For feedback, corrections or new climbs pleasee-mail climbs@kiwitracks.co.nz

Cover photo: Under The Boardwalk (17)

SectorsThe Beach 5The Arena 6The Sideshow 8

WARNING!Climbing is a potentially hazardous activity carryinga risk of personal injury or death. Climbing shouldbe undertaken with a full understanding of allinherent risks. This book is a guide and we haveattempted to ensure that the information was correctat the time of publication. You are responsible foryour own decisions. Use this guidebook at your ownrisk. We disclaim any liability for injury, death ordamage that may occur by using the information inthis book.

The Beach as seen from Hori Bay1Sectors

IntroductionSport climbing 45 minutes from Nelson? Hori Bay is a fun coastal experience withplenty of short easy bolted climbs and more to come. There are some obvious cavesand short cliffs near the car park at the Hori Bay beach but bolting these seems like anobnoxious intrusion on other users of this beautiful little spot. Instead, we explored thepromising looking coastline just Northeast of the sandy beach which is a lot lessaccessible to non-climbing recreational users. Trial and error revealed that only thebottom 10m or so of rock which has been cleaned by eons of ocean action is solidenough to be pleasant. In fact, the lower band is actually rather good. The Beach (p5)is currently the best spot to hang out and climb. Flat base. Plenty of climbs to fill theavailable tide window.

This guide is a work in progress. Look for updates through the summer as climbs areadded.

710 - 17318 - 21

The Moat - stretching the tide window

DriveHead out of Nelson on SH6 toward Havelock over Whangamoa Saddle and downWhangamoa Valley. About 3km after the Mt Duppa Track sign is the Hori Bay turn-offto the left (not marked as such). The distance from the petrol station in Hira to the turnoff is 17km (14.5km from Rai Valley if approaching from the Havelock direction). Aftergetting off SH6, immediately cross the river and turn right onto a forestry road. Followthe primary forest road past many minor intersections to Hori Bay. The final 2km is asteep all-wheel-drive hill down to sea-level (typically fine for all vehicles with theoccasional rutted section but can turn into a steep slippery clay-fest after heavy rain).

2 Introduction

ApproachFrom the parking area head Northeastalong the coastline. Getting to TheBeach is a 15-20 minute coast scrambleand less experienced climbers mayneed to be top-roped for 2 or 3 shortsections depending on the tide orswells.

There are stainless steel chain links anda belay anchor at The Moat so that anexperienced climber can make it safefor the rest of the party. Similarly thefinal descent into The Arena can berappelled from the anchor at the top ofFire Escape (10m) to avoid the steepand exposed Exit Scramble.

The crag is typically easy to access forabout 1.5 hours on either side of lowtide but with familiarity the usable tidewindow is closer to 6 hours (for currenttides Google “croisilles harbour tides”).Sectors and climbs are listed left to rightfacing the crag. All these climbs arenew: belayers should wear helmets.

Exit Scramble (10).

The approach3Introduction

Access and EnvironmentThe usual common sense applies when it comes to respect for the others and theenvironment:• park safely (if there is no space, park further away and walk)• minimize impact (take only photos, leave only chalk dust)• remove litter (even if it wasn't yours)• be a good ambassador for climbing when encountering non-climbers

How can I contribute? Always take a rubbish bag. Start at the parking area and thenlook for obvious rubbish on the beach. It may seem futile to clean an entire ocean butwe can start with our beach.

Equipment and SafetyAll climbs with blue numbers in this guide are bolted for sport climbing and havelower-off anchors. The bolt count mentioned in the climb descriptions does not includethe anchor. Climbs with red numbers are unbolted scrambles.

• Wear a helmet while belaying. This is especially important at a newly developed crag.• Don't hang out in the target area. Where will a hold pulled off a steep climb land?• If you take children to the crag, protect them from potential rockfall.

Inherent in climbing is an element of risk. Only you are responsible for your own safety.Use good judgment when it comes to trusting the rock, fixed protection, your equipmentand your partner. Also remember that this is only a guide: it may contain errors and willbecome less accurate as conditions change over time.

Anchor UsageWhen leading at Hori Bay we lower off the anchors. We do not rappel. We care moreabout safety than we do about wear-and-tear on the anchors from lowering. Contributeto our anchor replacement fund if it makes you feel better about lowering vs rappelling.

When top-roping, clip the rope into the anchors with your own gear to preventexcessive wear. Don't top-rope directly through the fixed anchor. Use a locking biner onthe rope and more than one sling.

Endless Summer (19)4 Introduction

The Beach     Mr Universe 18,21 ✰ 9B1

Two pitches. First pitch is a lead nomatter which end of the rope you are on(you’ll understand when you see it).Fun with extra adventure value.

Mr Universe (21)

     Under The Boardwalk 17 6B2

Climbs the obvious prow in the center ofthe crag. Easy start to steep corner thenarête.

     Good Vibrations 16 3B3

Short and sweet corner climb.

     The North Shore (Prj) 3B4

     Endless Summer 19 ✰ 4B5

Surprisingly dry despite theseepy-looking rock. Superb climb.

     Surf’s Up 186

Some of the lower holds can be dampbut they are huge so no sympathy.

     Surfer Girl 14 3B7

Pulling the upper bulge is as hard asyou want to make it. Easiest using theflake on the right.

     Summer Holiday 13 ✰ 3B8

On-angle groove followed by shortsteep section on huge holds.

Note: there are some bolts up the easy break right ofMr Universe. This is the access scramble to anchorsabove the grass slope used for developing the crag(not a climb).

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The Beach5The Beach

The ArenaThis is the large amphitheatre encountered after the approach traverse. The finaldescent into The Arena can be a steep scramble (Exit Scramble) or you can leave ashort line (10m) from the anchors at the top of Fire Escape and rappel in.

Unfortunately the large walls in The Arena have proven so far to be crud. We haveresolved to persevere though.

The Arena6 The Arena

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Cat Walk (12)

     Cat Walk 12 ✰ 5B1

Slab just right of the obvious cornercrack at the far right end of The Arena.Alternate bolted exit traverse to theanchor at the top of Fire Escape shown.

     Fire Escape 10 3B2

An alternate to the steep Exit Scrambleat the far right end of The Arena whenheading back out from the crag. Don'tmiss the 3rd bolt (look in the hole).Use the chain anchor and a short line(10m) to rappel in when approaching.

     Exit Scramble 103

Start in the corner and then diagonallyup and right on large holds. Steepunprotected exit scramble (or downclimb on approach).Rather use Fire Escape above left wallto rappel in and climb out.

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Fire Escape (10) and Exit Scramble (10)7The Arena

The Sideshow     Slim Pickings 16 3B1

Short steep climb between The Moatand the Exit Scramble. Easy stemmingto the 2nd bolt and then some power tofinish it.

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The Sideshow

The approach8 The Sideshow

First Ascents and CreditsCat Walk    - Michael Cartwright, Tamara Cartwright, 2014Endless Summer    - Michael Cartwright, Cathy O’Dowd, 2013Fire Escape    - Michael Cartwright, Tamara Cartwright, 2014Good Vibrations    - Michael Cartwright, Tamara Cartwright, 2013Mr Universe    - Michael Cartwright, Al Mark, TamaraCartwright, 2013

Slim Pickings    - Michael Cartwright,Cathy O’Dowd, 2014Summer Holiday    - Cathy O’Dowd, Michael Cartwright, 2013Surf’s Up    - Michael Cartwright, Cathy O’Dowd, 2013Surfer Girl    - Cathy O’Dowd, Michael Cartwright, 2013Under The Boardwalk    - Michael Cartwright, Al Mark, 2013

Climbs by Grade, By Crag21

The BeachMr Universe 5

19The Beach

Endless Summer 5

18The Beach

Surf’s Up 5

17The Beach

Under The Boardwalk 5

16The Beach

Good Vibrations 5The Sideshow

Slim Pickings 8

14The Beach

Surfer Girl 5

13The Beach

Summer Holiday 5

12The Arena

Cat Walk 7

10The Arena

Fire Escape 7

ProjectsThe Beach

The North Shore 5

NZ

141516171819202122232425262728

FR

4+

USA

5.75 5.85+

5.96a 5.10a

5.10b6a+6b 5.10c6b+ 5.10d

6c5.11a5.11b

6c+ 5.11c7a 5.11d

5.12a5.12b

7a+7b

5.12c7b+5.12d7c5.13a7c+

This guide includes text and photos from multiplesources. Many climbers helped with editing, proofreading and constructive criticism. Contributorsinclude Michael Cartwright, Tamara Cartwright, AlMark and Cathy O'Dowd.

Respect the locals9Climbs by Grade, By Crag

Sunset at Hori Bay