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Edible gardening seems to be gaining popularity in recent years for many reasons. One reason would obviously be economical. It is amazing how much produce, be it fruit or vegetables that can be grown in a small area in a backyard or in a large pot on a deck or patio. Everything you harvest from your garden is grown at the cost of a few seeds or plants, some basic supplies and some of your time.A more important reason is having a healthy and safe source of produce for yourself and your loved ones. While most produce purchased at the market is defiantly safe to consume, we can never be too sure. The only way to truly know what has or has not been applied to your food is to grow your own. And for those who wish to avoid genetically engineered crops, theses can also be avoided simply by purchasing your own seed and/or bedding crops and “growing your own”. Because genetically engineered plant varieties are so very costly to develop, it is not economical for those involved to market them at homeowner size quantities. This fact alone effectively keeps them out of the local seed racks and bedding plant supplies. They are only grown by growers growing vast acreages of produce such as sweet corn, canola etc.As a result it is getting much more attractive to “grow your own”. There is a vast array of edible items that we can grow in central Alberta and they are so easy to grow. Any sunny location with good soil will do. If the soil is hard, amend it with generous amounts of compost or peat moss. Vegetables are divided into cool season or warm season crops. Cool season crops such as most root crops, kale, spinach, lettuce, peas and chard can germinate and grow in cool soil and can be planted as early as late April in central Alberta. Warm season crops, however, must have warm soil to germinate and grow and as such must be planted out about

May. 25th or later. These include all the cucumber, melon, pumpkin, beans corn, tomatoes and peppers. They also much be grown in warm, sunny sheltered locations.Herbs also fall in the edible plant area. Many are perennial and can be grown in the perennial border. Some, like basil are an annual and need a warm sunny location such as that found in a large pot on a warm sunny deck.Tomatoes (actually a fruit) are best grown on the warm south side of a building or fence or in a large pot on a warm sunny deck (with the basil) or in a greenhouse.There are also many different fruits, such as apples, cherries, plums, saskatoons and grapes that can be grown in Red Deer. Growing details cannot all be printed here, but our experts a Parkland Garden Centre will be happy to help out. Watering practices are very important in determining success when growing vegetables and fruits. Plants grown in pots will need watering virtually every day - maybe even more on sunny hot days. Rainwater collected in barrels under the downspout is the very best source of good quality water free of impurities. For those crops grown in the traditional garden setting, mulching will aide in reducing the need for watering but when watering is required, set out a sprinkler and let it go for at least 2 hours per setting for adequate soaking. Watering will only be required once every week or two this way.Some edibles can even be grown in hanging baskets such as tomatoes and strawberries. Radishes and lettuce can be grown in window boxes. Just remember to purchase a good quality soil mix for this purpose and also remember that very few plants will overwinter in pots, so annual vegetable are a great thing to grow in pots. The possibilities are endless and fun – check it all out at Parkland Garden Centre!

dening seems to be gaining popularity inEdible gards for many reasons. recent yearsn would obviously be economical It isOne reason

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HOME & GARDEN

Growing Your OwnBy Alfred Prins

Did you know?

(MS) Several varieties of roses are thornless or have very few thorns. Many plant breeders have developed roses without thorns, which are particularly safe for elderly gardeners, gardeners who have young children or pets or those who simply do not want to worry about thorns on their rose bushes. Smooth Touch roses are a popular and thorn-free breed of rose developed in California in the 1960s by Harvey Davidson. These roses are touted as 95 to 100 percent free of thorns. Some of the Smooth Touch series include, “Ballerina,” “Moonlight” and “Snowflake.” A moderate climber, the “Zephirine Drouhin,” named after the wife of a French rose enthusiast, is another popular thorn-free breed of rose. Several multiflora ramblers that descended from Asian rose species also are free of thorns. “Ghislaine de Feligonde,” “Veilchenblau,” “Goldfinch,” and “Ice Tea” are others that feature thorn-free canes and stems.

nblau,re tho n-free canes a

Recognize safety hazards during yard workRecognize safety hazards during yard work(MS) -- Attention, all green thumbs -- and the bodies attached to them: It’s nearly time to get down and dirty in the garden.Whether you’re transforming your backyard into an award winner or just trimming the lawn, the CSA Group, a leading certification and testing organization, asks that you remember the following safety tips:

Yard Work• Always ensure that products such as electric

lawnmowers, barbecues, power tools, ladders, decorative lights, extension cords and safety apparel carry the mark of a recognized certification organization, such as CSA Group.

• Read the manufacturer’s operating instructions and use products only as intended.

• Wear protective eye and footwear (on eyes and feet, respectively).

• What’s that you say? Wear hearing protection when operating loud machinery, vehicles or tools.

Power Lawnmowers• Know your mower and always follow the

manufacturer’s instructions.• Look for these safety features: a rear guard to

protect your hands and feet from rotating blades; a “deadman” control that stops the mower when you release the handle; and an “up-stop” feature to prevent the handle from kicking up when the mower hits an obstacle.

• Clear the lawn of sticks, stones, wire, toys

and other objects (including that screwdriver you lost in the grass last summer), as they could get caught in the machine or flung by the blades.

• Wear clothing that provides some protection, including long pants, a shirt with sleeves and firmly-tied shoes with non-slip soles and hard toes.

• Never cut the grass when it’s damp or wet, or when there is rain or lightning. Wet conditions greatly increase the risk that you will slip, suffer electric shock or clog the mower.

• Always mow in daylight, never at twilight or in the dark. Keep your eyes on the lawn and look ahead (at least three feet) for debris.

• Shut off, unplug and engage your mower’s safety devices before removing clogged grass clippings.

• Shut off the mower immediately if you hit an object. Check for damage and do not restart it unless you’re sure it’s safe to do so.

• As suggested by its name, always push rather than pull a push mower.

• All extension cords should be untangled, in good repair, have a three-prong plug rated for outdoor use and be of the recommended gauge for the load.

For more information on CSA Group visit www.csagroup.org.

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(MS) As winter slowly winds down, many gardeners cannot wait to soak up the springtime sun and get their hands dirty in the garden. Such excitement is not just good for gardeners, but can benefit the garden in the months to come as well.Late winter or early spring is a great time to get a head start on the gardening season. Even if gardening season is still around the corner, completing the following projects can ensure your garden gets off on the right foot.

Clear debrisOne of the best things you can do for your garden as winter winds down is to clear it of debris. Winter can be especially harsh on a landscape, and gardens left to the elements are often filled with debris once spring arrives. Dead leaves, fallen branches, rocks that surfaced during the winter frost, and even garbage that might have blown about in winter winds can all pile up in a garden over a typical winter. Clearing such debris likely won’t take long, but it’s a great first step toward restoring the garden before the time comes to plant and grow the garden once again.

Examine the soilSoil plays a significant role in whether a garden thrives or struggles. Examining the soil before the season starts can help gardeners address any issues before they plant. Ignoring the soil until a problem arises can turn the upcoming gardening season into a lost opportunity, so test the soil to determine if it has any nutrient or mineral deficiencies. This may require the help of a professional, but if a problem arises, you might be able to adjust the acidity or alkalinity of the soil and still enjoy a successful gardening season.Another way to examine the soil is less complex but can shed light on when would be a good time to get back to work. Reach into the soil and dig out a handful. If the soil quickly crumbles, you can start preparing for gardening seasoning. But if the soil is still clumped together, it needs more time to dry out before you can begin your prep work.

Initiate edgingEdging is another task gardeners can begin as they get ready for the season. Edge plant and flower beds, but be sure to use a spade with a flat blade or an edger designed to edge flower beds. Such tools will cut deep enough so grass roots that may eventually grow into the flower bed are severed. Depending on how large a garden is, edging can be a time-consuming task, so getting a head start allows homeowners to spend more time planting and tending to their gardens once the season hits full swing.

Fight weedsThough weeds likely have not survived the winter, that does not mean they won’t return once the weather starts to heat up. But as inevitable as weeds may seem, homeowners can take steps to prevent them from turning beautiful gardens into battlegrounds where plants, flowers and vegetables are pitted against unsightly and potentially harmful weeds. Spring is a good time to apply a pre-emergent weed preventer, which can stop weeds before they grow. Though such solutions are not always foolproof, they can drastically reduce the likelihood of weed growth.Though gardeners might not be able to start planting their gardens in late winter or early spring, they can still get outside and take steps to ensure their gardens thrive once planting season begins.

HOME & GARDEN

How to guarantee your garden starts off on the right foot

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HOME & GARDEN

(MS) Gardening is an age-old activity that was once a necessity but has transformed into a hobby for thousands of people. While gardening still serves practical purposes, many gardeners still consider it a hobby first and foremost.Time-tested gardening techniques have prevailed, but there remain certain myths about gardening that are best dispelled. The following are some of the more common myths associated with gardening.

• MYTH: Compost tea is more effective than traditional compost. All over North America and the United Kingdom, gardeners have jumped on board the compost tea bandwagon. Compost tea is a fertilizer created by steeping compost in water mixed with sugar in brewing kits. The mixture is allowed to sit and aerate to encourage beneficial organism growth before it is sprayed on plants. According to supporters, compost tea suppresses disease and boosts plant yields. However, there is no evidence to suggest that compost tea works any better than adding compost in its normal state to the soil. In fact, leaving buckets of the “tea” around to ferment could actually create a breeding ground for E coli and other bacteria.

• MYTH: Plants under stress should be fertilized. This is not the case. Horticulturists advise that fertilizing plants that are not deficient in nutrients can actually add to existing stress levels for plants. Plants are not often stressed by a lack of food, but rather heat, faulty planting or space constraints. A fed plant will use the energy to absorb the nutrients instead of defending against a blight or establishing better root systems.

• MYTH: Young trees need stakes. It may be tempting to stake that little sapling to protect it against the weather and strong winds, but doing so may actually work against the foundling tree. Staking trees to inhibit swaying may not stimulate the tree to grow thicker, lower trunks that will help the tree in the long run. The Royal Horticultural Society recommends that saplings be staked for around one year and then have the stakes removed to encourage the tree to be strong and stable on its own.

• MYTH: Water droplets and sunshine lead to burnt leaves. Gardeners have been told to resist watering their plants during the hottest times of the day. Many assume it’s because water droplets lying on leaves will magnify the sun’s rays and burn the leaves. According to Dr. Gabor Horvath at the Eoetvoes University in Budapest, water droplets will rarely damage plants because the drops are too close to the leaves to cause burning before they evaporate. Watering during the hottest points of the day is not advised because water evaporates and gets wasted.

• MYTH: Sand added to clay soil makes it looser and better for plants. Clay soil is a deterrent to gardening because it can be so hard to dig and difficult to cultivate, but some feel it’s best to add sand to the clay to make it a better soil mixture. You would need a great deal of sand to do this in the right manner, but many gardeners simply dig a hole, add sand and hope for the best. However, water runoff will pool in the sand and not be absorbed by the clay, potentially causing the plants to drown.

• MYTH: Adding compost or potting soil to the planting hole for a tree or shrub is beneficial. Gardeners frequently add compost or potting soil to the hole where the root ball of a tree or shrub will be placed. But this encourages the roots to grow only in this nutrient-rich area, rather than spreading throughout the landscape to form a stronger and more durable root system. If you are going to amend the soil, do so evenly across the landscape.

• MYTH: Use gravel or rocks in the bottom of planting containers to improve drainage. Rocks and gravel can actually impede the growth of plants and take away space for roots to grow. The drainage may be affected as well, as water will sit above the gravel or stones and saturate the roots. Stick with plain soil for better drainage results.A variety of gardening myths still prevail. Over time, behaviors can be changed if gardeners learn to separate myths from facts.

Weed out gardening myths from facts

Spring lawn seeding basics(MS) Spring has sprung, and there are many activities to enjoy now that the warmer weather has arrived. Many homeowners make the most of warmer weather by tackling projects around their properties.While autumn is a better time to overseed a lawn for new growth, satisfactory results still can be had if seeding is done early enough in the spring. Grass needs ample time to establish roots and grow strong before the summer heat takes its toll. Many types of grass need six to 12 weeks of ideal temperatures and growing conditions to germinate and produce a sturdy grass that will grow and endure.Seeding can be done to rejuvenate an existing lawn and fill in bare spots. It also can be done to start a lawn from scratch. The following are some tips to help make seeding projects more successful.

• Begin by raking the lawn to remove thatch and any fallen leaves leftover from autumn and winter. Raking also enables you to inspect the lawn for bare patches or matting of grass that may be indicative of a fungus or other problem.

• Dust off the mower and trim the lawn short, especially if it was left long at the end of last season. This will help seed penetrate the blades of grass and get to the soil beneath.

• High-traffic lawns may need aeration to counteract compacted soil. Moss on the ground is often an indication of compaction. Aeration will help with this problem, as it pokes holes into the soil to enable oxygenation that keeps new grass robust and promotes faster growth. Lawn aerators can be rented from many garden centers.

• Spread a mixture of topsoil and compost over the top of the lawn. This will add nutrients through organic matter to the lawn and create a good base for the new seed to take root. It will also help strengthen any existing grass and promote long-term health.

• Test a sample of the soil to check the pH. Grass prefers a neutral pH, but some soil tends to lean toward the acidic side, especially if you see the presence of moss. Knowing the pH will help determine just how much lime per square foot you will need to adjust it accordingly. Liming is a corrective measure and does not need to be used on a healthy, thriving lawn.

• Invest in a spreader to add seed to the lawn. The spreader will have various settings that enable you to calibrate the rate of seed dispersion depending on your walking speed. Fill the spreader with seed and begin to walk around the lawn. Drop spreaders require you to apply seed in rows with no overlap. Broadcast spreaders will cast seed widely and may need some overlap to guarantee complete coverage.

• Spread another thin layer of compost mix over the seed and water thoroughly. The compost will help keep moisture in while the seeds germinate.

• Aim for lawn watering two to three times per day. The seed should be barely dry between watering. After seeds have germinated and established, you can reduce the frequency of watering but increase the depth of the watering to keep roots strong.

• Avoid foot traffic on a newly seeded lawn until the grass is well established.