-
Etxaburu Tower
DEPARTAMENTO DE INDUSTRIA,COMERCIO Y TURISMO
INDUSTRIA, MERKATARITZAETA TURISMO SAILA
The partial and/or full copying of the text, maps or pictures
included in this guidewithout the prior authorization of this
Department, and of its authors, is prohibited.
1st EDITION : JANUARY 20017th EDITION: NOVEMBER 2006
PUBLISHED BY: EuskoJaurlaritzaren ArgitalpenZerbitzu Nagusia /
ServicioCentral de Publicaciones delGobierno Vasco.
DESIGNED AND PRODUCED:ACC Comunicacin
TEXTS WRITTEN BY: Mikel G. Gurpegui
MAPS: ACC Comunicacin
PHOTOGRAPHS BY: Pello Lpez, Archivo ACC Comunicacin,Agustn
Sagasti, Gonzalo M. Azumendi,Javier Carballo, Mikel Arrazola,
SantiagoYaniz, Daro Garrido, Lurrak, GemaArrugaeta, Bodegas
Ysios.
PRINTED BY:---
D.L.:---
Data updated to September 2006
Administration of the AutonomousCommunity of the Basque
Country,Department of Industry, Commerce andTourism.
-
33
INTRODUCTION .................................Pag. 4
Road Map .................................................Pag.
6
A brief history ............................................Pag.
8
The Basque Country and art ........................Pag.12
Fiestas and traditions ...............................Pag.
16
The love of good food ...............................Pag. 22
A natural country .....................................Pag.
26
Theme Routes .........................................Pag.
32
LAVA-ARABA......................................... Pag. 36
BIZKAIA
..................................................Pag.48
GIPUZKOA...............................................Pag.
60
PRACTICAL INFORMATION .............Pag. 72
Map of Vitoria-Gasteiz ..............................Pag. 86
Map of Bilbao ..........................................Pag.
87
Map of Donostia-San Sebastin..................Pag. 88
CONTENTS
T H E B A S Q U E C O U N T R Y
-
4
Ana Aguirre Zurutuza
Councillor for Industry, Trade and Tourismof the Basque
Government
The Basque Country, or Euskadi as it is known locally, is aplace
of enormous vitality, a historical, cultural andfinancial vitality
resulting from a strong collectivesentiment and a considerable
talent for individual initiative.
From the time when our ancestors portrayed their reality
bypainting on the walls of the Altxerri, Ekain or Santimamiecaves,
until Jose Mara Olazabals double triumph at theMasters golf
tournament in Augusta, this country has just
about seen it all: universal characters like Juan Sebastin
Elcano, SimnBolivar, Ignacio de Loyola, founder of the Society of
Jesus, creators andartists such as Cristbal Balenciaga, a key
figure of the French haute
couture, or the contemporary Chillida and Oteiza amongothers. In
addition to these people, the daily andcollective efforts of men
and women in the fields and atthe sea, creating companies and
working in them, hasgiven rise to a country with enormous
entrepreneurialwherewithal.
Tourism has always been a great tradition in the BasqueCountry,
where courts and royalty chose to spend theirsummers, as did the
select upper classes at the beginning
of the century.
This tourism has contributed to the development of traditional
Basquecuisine. The love of good food is a real culture in the
Basque Country, as canbe seen at the market place, in homes, and in
the over a thousandgastronomic societies and clubs whose members
meet to cook in keepingwith a rather peculiar tradition.
The Basque tendency to act collectively is historically
represented by theCasas de Juntas, where the locals would meet to
take joint decisions, notunlike an assembly. The best known of
these is the Casa de Juntas deGernika, standing next to a
hundred-year old oak tree that has now become a
ALL ROADS LEAD TO THIS LITTLE
COUNTRY
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5
BILBAO
VITORIA-GASTEIZ
B I Z K A I A
G I P U Z K O A
A L A V A
DONOSTIASAN SEBASTIAN
The coast between Zarautz and Getaria (Gipuzkoa)
tourist attraction for those wishing to know more aboutthe roots
of Basque politics.
But we Basques also have a tendency towardsindividualism as
reflected in the thousands of littleneighbourhoods, hamlets and
farmhouses dotted overthe mountains and plains, many of which now
offeraccommodation (known as agroturismo) where thevisitor, in
addition to finding that personal touch, canalso combine a pleasant
rest in deep countryside with the practising of sports,leisure,
cultural and professional activities. Theres plenty to do from the
Atlanticcoast, land of cider and txakoli, to the plains of the
Rioja Alavesa with itsinternationally famous wines.
Our bustling cities are a mixture of tradition and modernity.
Proof of this are theGuggenheim Museum in Bilbao and the Aquarium
in Donostia-San Sebastin or
the old quarter of Vitoria-Gasteiz, home of the BasqueGovernment
and Parliament, not to mention the Euskalduna,Kursaal and Europa
convention centres with their excellentservices for
convention-holders, or the Museo Chillida-Leku,with its collection
of oeuvres by this artist of international fame.
This is a changing, comfortable place, easy to get
around,peaceful, carefully tended and perfect for taking a
pleasantwalk or doing a bit of shopping.
You can do just about anything in the Basque Country: you cango
surfing, have a round of golf, watch the rural sport events, enjoy
the fixed-thwart rowing boat races or bullfights, bet on pelota
games, go to the horse-racingor to the casino. Then there are the
jazz concerts, others by big orchestras orchoirs, or the
exceptional museums and the countless local fiestas in which
thevisitor can participate simply by deciding to do so.
These are some of the recipes to be found in the Basque Country,
recipes I hopeyou will enjoy with pleasure, and of which you are
always the main ingredient.
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HuescaBurgos
Pamplona
Bayonne
Pau
Bilbao
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Donostia-San Sebastin
Santander
Logroo
Len
Gijn
Oviedo
La Corua
Vigo
Biarritz
Errenteria
Antzuola
Capitales
Important towns
Villages
Smaller villages
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Bermeo
G E N E R A L I N F O R M AT I O N
BI-3732
BI-2704
BI-21
22
Balneario dePadres Palotinos
EMBALSURRUN
Rio
O
RioButrn
RioKa
dagu
a
Rio
Kad
agua
Rio
May
or
Rio
May
or
RioAgeraEmbalsedeel Juncal
RioAsn
Karrantza
Rio Kalera Embalse
deOrdunte
RioOrdunt
e
EmbalsedeArtziniega
RioNe
rvin
Rio Ner
vin
RioBa
yas
Rio
Bay
as Rio
Zad
orra
RioAyu
daRio
Ayud
Rio Inglares
Balneariode Kutxo
RioOroncillo
RioTir
n
Embalse deSobrn
RioOmecillo
Embalse dePuentelarra
PresaMaroo
RIOEBRO
RIOEBRO
Rio N
ajer
illa
RioAltube
PantanoUndurraga
Rio Arratia
RioIbarzabal
ISLA
Ra de
Cabo de MatxitxakISLA DEAKETZE
ISLA DE VILLANO
Cabo Villano
Playa de Sopelana
Punta Galea
Ra de Bilbao
Punta LuceroSollube648m.
S. Pelaio452m.
San Juan deGaztelugatxe
Jata601m.
Barrika
Butrn
Genekogorta
992m.
Andra Mari
Ntra. Sra.de Unbe
Sta. Cruz
Arenaza
San Pedro de Abrisketa
Eretza
888m.
Ganeran825m.
Mello626m.
Alen
801m.
Trasmosomos 698m.
San Sebastin
C A N T A B R I A
Castro Urdiales
Virgen delBuen Suceso
Pozalagua
Armaon
853m.
Ramales de laVictoria
Covalanas
Cotobasero
829m.
Kolitza 882m.
Ntra. Sra. de la EncinaSantuario
Zalama
1341m.
Villasana de Mena
Dubaltza
693m.
Santa Lucia
Quincoces de Yuso
Perigaa
628m.
Ntra. Sra. de Etxaurren
BIZKAIA
Arando
943m.
Virgen de la PeaLa Antigua
Txarlazo
932m.
Eskutxi
1181m.
Mandoia
637m.
Untzeta
762m.
Santa Marina
Jesuri
750m.San Justo
Baltzola
Ntra. Sra. deGarrastatxu
Gorbeia1481m.
Zigoitia
Berretn 1221m.
Mairuelegorreta
Valle de Zuia
Ntra. Sra. de Oro
Cruz de Ganalto
897m.
CONDADO DE T
Miranda de Ebro
S. Prudencio
Irua de Oca
Txulato946m.
Virgen de
Oteros1031m.
San Vitores892m. Busto
976m.
Las Go
Toloo1263m.
S. Gins
L A R I O J A
San Vicentede la SonsierraHaro
Briones
B U R G O S
Villalba de Losa
San Milln deSan Zadornil
San Sebastin
943m.
Calleros
S. Forneria
URKABUSTAIZ
Pea Risca
1007m.Repiko
1190m.
Ntra. Sra. de Angosto
Batxikabo
1202m.
Cueto
1364m.
S i e r r a d e A r k a m o
Somo
902m.
PARQUENATURAL DEVALDEREJO
PARQUENATURAL
DEGORBEIA
RESERVA DE BIOSFERA DE UR
S i e r r a d e Gi b i j o
Belatxikieta666m.
Salto deGujuli
S i e r r a B r a v ad e B a d a y a
Nacedero del Rio Nervin
Poblado Romanode Irua
M o n t e s d e V i t o r i a
FORONDA
S i e r r ad e
A r c e n a
Casa de Juntasde Abellaneda
Sierra
deAram
otz
Siede
Eskub
M
a ci z o
d e l
Go
r be i a
Bayas
Montemayor
1104m.
S i e r r aS a l b
a d a
S ie r
r ad e
O rd u
n te
P e a
s d e
R an e
r o
Paso deSubijana
Lern
1236m.
San Roke
A-3
A-3224
A-2124
N-24
0
BI-2
235BI-6
31
BI-3101
BI-3101
BI-2121
BI-3123
BI-3123
BI-3213
BI-3
751
BI-3
148
BI-3102BI-3726
BI-3
751
BI-6
35
A-8 E-70N-634
N-2
40
BI-635
BI-2543
BI-2543
BI-3524
BI-3513
A-3608
A-3
608
A-3610
A-3600
A-3600 N-622
A-3604
N-1 E-
80 E-
5
A-3302
A-3
302
A-36
06
A-3302
A-36
02
N-102
A-21
24
A-31
02
A-2622
A-312
2
BU-741
A-21
24
A-3124
A-3126A-31
28
A-3
202
A-3202
A-124
A-12
4
A-68
A-12
4
A-3124
A-3312
A-2122
A-3310
A-3322
A-2622
A-3318
A-3316
A-3
314
A-3
314
A-2521
A-624
A-624 A-2522
BI-62
5
A-625
A-62
5
BI-25
22
A-3622
A-3632
A-36
38
BI-625
A-3318
BI-
A-624
A-3
641
BI-3
931
A-361
8
BI-3641
A-8 E-70
BI-3702
BI-3
701
N-634
BI-26
04
BI-3621
BI-3
631
BI-3632
BI-3631
BI-636
BI-636
A-8 E-70
N-637
N-637
N-634
BI-6
31
BI-6
31
BI-3741BI-3704
BI-2
704 BI
-370
9
BI-3707
N-634
BI-637
BI-6
34
BI-3721
BI-2120
BI-3108
BI-3151
BI-3151
BI-2
153
BI-3101
BI-3704
BI-3111
BI-3121
BI-634
A-36
30
A-624
BI-47
44
N-639N-634
BI-2
701
BI-3601
BI-3614
BI-3611
BI-3602
BI-630
BI-636
BI-3636
BI-3
635
A-2122
A-2625
A-2622
A-2622
A-431
8
A-432
3
A-2625
A-4
334
A-4337
A-4330
A-32
20
A-26
25BI-26
25
A-362
2
A-4
620
A-4619
A-46
18
A-36
20
A-2604
BI-630
BI-3622
BI-3629
N-6
29
BI-2
617
BI-3131
BI-3794
N-1 E-
80 E-
5 A-4105
A-68
E-80
4
A-68
E-80
4
A-3
612
BI-2731
Villabuena de A
Sam
Peace
Labastida
Zambrana
Berantevilla
Trevio
Armin
RIBERABAJA
Comunin
Lantarn
Salinas de Aana/Gesaltza-Aana
Pobes
RIBERAALTA
Nanclares de la Oca
Los Moros
Villanueva deValdegova
Zuatzu-Kuartango
Gopegui
MurgaIzarra
Amurrio
Ordua
Ayala /Aiara
ArtziniegaLlodio
Arespalditza
Okondo
Ubide
Zeanuri
Areatza
Artea
Orozko
Zeberio
Arrankudiaga
Arantzazu
BediaZaratamoGaldakao
BilbaoArrigorriaga
Ugao-Miraballes
Arakaldo
Basauri
Lemoa
Alonsotegi
Barakaldo
Galdames
Gees
Gordexola
Zalla
Arcentales
CarranzaLanestosa
Villaverdede Trucios
Trucios-Turtzioz
Balmaseda
Sopuerta
Valle de Trapaga-Trapagaran
Muskiz
Abanto yCirvana-AbantoZierbena
Zierbena
Santurtzi
PortugaleteSestao
Getxo
Leioa
Sopelana
Urduliz
Berango Gatika
Laukiz
Loiu
Erandio Sondika
Gorliz
LemoizPlentzia
Bakio
Maruri-Jatabe
BermeoMundaka
Sukarrieta
Busturia
Meaka
Mungia
Gamiz-Fika
DerioZamudio
Lezama
Larrabetzu
Morga
Fruiz
ArrietaMurueta
Forua
Errigoiti
Gernika-LumMuxika
M
Ib
Amorebie
Du
Maa
Dima
Igorre
ArmintzeROAD MAP OF THEBASQUE AUTONOMOUSCOMMUNITY
Population
..............................................2.128.801
Population density......................300,03 inhabit./km2
Average age
.....................................................39,8
Working population
.....................................983.700
Life expectancy, men
........................................76,4
Life expectancy, women
....................................83,7
Birth rate
.......................................................9,3 %
Death
rate......................................................8,9 %
Area covered............................................7.089
km2
Length of the coast .....................................252
kms
Maximum height (above sea level)...1.551 metres
No. of principal
rivers...........................................19
Average annual temperature........................14,36 C
Average minimum temperature......................9,96 C
Average maximum temperature ...................19,23 C
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MOTORWAYDUAL CARRIAGEWAYINTERESTING ROADMAIN ROADCOUNTRY
ROADLOCAL ROADOTHER ROADSCASTLECHURCHCAVEPARADORSPA
CENTREAIRPORTPILGRIMS ROAD TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
KEY TO THEDIFFERENT SYMBOLS
A-3130
EmbalsedeArtikutza
Embalsede
Aarbe
RoOiartzunRoUrumea
RoLeizaran
Ro
Oria
RoOr
ia
RoOr
ia
Ro Arakil
Balneario de Zestona
Rio
Deb
a
Rio
Deb
a
PresadeUrkulu
Rio
Deb
a
EmbalsedeAlbina
SE DENAGA
EMBALSE DEULLIBARRI
RioZadorra
Rio Barrundi
a
Rio
Uro
la
RioUrola
Artib
ai
Artib
ai
RioLea
Rio
Lea
oO
ka
da
RioEga
RIOEBRO
RioEga
Rio Iskiz
Ro Bidasoa
PresaAtxola
EmbalsedeSanAntn
Cabo de Higuer
Playa deHendaya
Playa de La Concha
Playa de
Zarautz
Punta IzarriPunta Izustarri
Punta Aitzandi
Playa de Saturrarn
Cabo Sta.Katalina
Cabo Apikale
Cabo Ogoo
DE IZARO
Mundaka
o
G O L F O D E B I Z K A I A
Jaizkibel 545m.
Ntra. Sra.de Guadalupe
Hendaya
FRANCIA
PARQUE NATURALAIAKO HARRIA
Adarra 816m.
Urepel
1049m.
Urdelar853m.
Andatza 562m.
San Martzial
Landarbaso
PARQUE
NATURAL DE
PAGOETA
Otsabio801m.
N. S. de Andatzarrate
Altxerri
PARQUE NATURALDE ARALAR
Intxurre737m.
Ntra. Sra.de Loinaz
Ntra. Sra. de Larraitz
Txindoki 1340m.
Intzartzu789m.
Irumugarrieta 1393m.
Atxabal693m.
Izazpe972m.
Ntra. Sra. Antigua
Intsusburu943m.
Loiola Santuario
Irimo901m.
Aizkirri
PARQUE NATURALDE AIZKORRI
San Adrin
La Leze
Ntra. Sra. de Barria(Monasterio)
Gebara-Torre Etxea
S. Victor
Obi
Sta. Teodosia
Murube1142m.
PARQUE NATURALDE ENTZIA
Ntra. Sra. deSallurtegi
Arrigorista1153m.
PierolaConvento
Ekain
Ntra. Sra.de Itziar
Irukurutzeta 896m.
Kalamua
769m.
Klabelinaitz605m.
Ntra. Sra.de Arrate
Elgeta
San Marcial
Udalaitz1118m.
Aumategigaa(Saiturri) 1191m.
Altsasu
Korosti904m.
Ntra. Sra. deArantzazuSantuario
Motrollo594m.
Sta. Katalina
San Miguel de Arretxinaga
Goikoian
S. Miguel Ereozar
Illuntzar 731m.
Sta. Eufemia
Ziortza Kolegiata
Oiz 1026m.
Arteaga
Ntra. Sra.de Goiuria
Egoarbitza734m.
Anboto1328m.
Bolin
S. Antonio
Aramaio
Elgeamendi942m.
Kapildui1177m.
Pagogan1027m.
Ntra. Sra. de Ayala
PARQUENATURAL
DE IZKIBeolarra
Belabia972m.
REVIO
Ntra. Sra. deEstibaliz
Santa Marina
e la Pea
obas
Jandel1035m.
OkonPea Alta1246m.Palomares
1451m.Eskamelo1296m.
Ntra. Sra. de la Asuncin
FuenmayorCenicero Logroo
Santo Espritu
Joar1418m.
Costalera1234m.
Acedo
PARQUE NATURALDE URKIOLA
LARDAIBAI
Balcn deBizkaia
TorreMuntsaraz
S i er r a d e C a n t a b r i
a
Mon
t es d
e Iz k i
S i e r r a d eK o
d es
S ie r r
a de L o k
i z
S i er r a
d eE n
t zi a
N AVA R R A
S i er r a d
e U r b a s a
Mont
es d
e
Altza
n ia
S i e r r ad e E l g e a S i e r r a
d eU r k i l l a
S i e r r ad e
Ai z
ko
rr
iS i e r r a d e A r a l a r
Si e
r r ad
e
I z a r r a i t z
ArgietaSepulkroak
rraearatx
Sierrade
ArangioOrisol 1126m.
Hipdromo
Martutene
Ernio1026 m.
Aizkorri1528 m.
Kurtzeta
Etxegarate
GI-3633
GI-3420
GI-3631
GI-34
51
GI-3410
GI-3721
GI-3410
GI-2
633
GI-3
710
GI-3282
GI-3481
GI-3630
GI-3630
GI-3411
GI-3720
GI-4071
GI-3072
GI-3071
GI-3715
GI-3211
GI-3502
GI-3670
GI-3
670
GI-360
GI-3371
GI-35
81
GI-3
162
GI-3730
GI-6
31
GI-631
GI-3293
GI-3
210
GI-3
750
GI-3731GI-3192
GI-3
352
GI-3520
GI-3540
GI-3
572
A-8 E-70
N-1
GI-2132
GI-2638
GI-21
34
N-638
N-1
21
N-1
N-634
A-8 E-70
GI-2132
GI-131
GI-1
31
N-1
GI-2631
GI-2
631
GI-2130
GI-2130
GI-2634
GI-2634
N-130
NA
-130
GI-2133N
-1GI
-2131
GI-2133
GI-1
20
N-1
GI-2637
GI-632
GI-632
GI-632
GI-26
30
GI-2630
A-3
020
A-3012
A-3012
A-301
8
A-3016
A-3012
A-2128
A-212
8
A-311
0
A-3116A-31
14
A-3118A-31
14
A-132
A-132
A-3120
A-126
A-3222
A-2126
A-3226
A-32
26
A-3226
A-124
A-3
220
A-3
218
A-3228
A-124 A-3228
A-3
216
A-32
10
A-322
0
A-3126
A-126
A-3130
A-31
32
A-132
A-4135
A-31
12
A-3110
A-311
2
A-3210A-4208
A-3214
3214
A-3
212
A-3130
BU-741
A-132
A-3110
A-4006A-2134
A-3008
A-3010
A-30
02
A-3
012
A-3014
A-627
GI-62
7
GI-33
10
GI-3343
GI-3591GI-3
592
GI-35
91
GI-3511A-262
0
GI-26
20
A-3841
A-62
3
BI-62
3
N-2
40
N
GI-62
7
GI-3551
GI-6
32
BI-63
2
GI-3360GI-26
39
GI-2632BI-2632
BI-632BI-3313
GI-2639
GI-62
7
GI-6
31
GI-3174
BI-3321
GI-2634
A-8 E-70
A-8
E-7
0
A-8 E-70
N-634
N-634
BI-3301
BI-3302
BI-3342
GI-32
10
N-634
GI-3292
GI-638
GI-3563GI-3562
BI-2636
GI-3
950
BI-3
950
GI-3301
BI-6
33
BI-2224BI-3448
BI-344
7
BI-3
447
BI-3405
BI-3341
BI-323
1
BI-3
222
BI-32
22
BI-3231
BI-3332
BI-2238
BI-3238
BI-3238BI-3481
BI-3242
BI-3241
BI-3242
BI-2
237
BI-3234
BI-3237
BI-6
38
BI-2543
N-104
A-2130
A-3104
A-68
-3542
GI-34
40
GI-3
361
GI-3
672
GI-36
71
GI-34
01
GI-2635
N-634
A-63
N-1 E-80 E-5
GI-3740
Lapuebla deLabarca
ElciegoOyn-Oin
Moreda de Alava
Lanciego/LantziegoLaguardia
Navaridas
Baos de Ebro
Alava
maniegoLeza
Elvillar/Bilar Ycora
Poblado PrehistoricoLa Hoya
Cripn
BernedoLagrn
rrada
Santa Cruzde Campezo
Araia
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Alegra
Elburgo
Iruraiz-Gauna
SalvatierraAgurain
Egilaz/Egilatz
Zalduondo
Asparrena
AraiaDurana
Legutiano Leintz-Gatzaga
Arrazua-Ubarrundia
Ozaeta
Otxandio
a
o
Mendata
Elantxobe
barrangelu Ea
Gautegiz-Arteaga
Ereo
Kortezubi
Ajangiz
Arratzu
eta-Etxano
Ispaster
LekeitioMendexa
Ondarroa
Amoroto
Gizaburuaga
Nabarniz
Aulesti
Munitibar-Arbatzegi Gerrikaitz
Markina-Xemein
Etxebarria
Berriatua
Ermua
Zaldibar
Elorrio
Abadio
rango
Izurtza
aria
Atxondo
Ibarra
Berriz
MallabiaGaray
Iurreta
Mutriku
Deba Zumaia Getaria
Mendaro
Zestoa
Aizarnazabal
Zarautz
Orio Usurbil
Elgoibar
Eibar
Azpeitia
Azkoitia
Bergara
Zumarraga
Legazpi
Arrasate/Mondragn
Oati
Urretxu
Antzuola
Soraluze-Placenciade las Armas
Gabiria
Ormaiztegi
Mutiloa
Zerain
Zegama
Segura
Olaberria
Idiazabal Ataun
Lazkao
Beasain
Ordizia
Ezkio-ItsasoItsasondo
Arama
Zaldibia
Gaintza
AltzagaBaliarrain
AbaltzisketaAmezketa
Legorreta Orendain
Ikaztegieta Alegia Orexa
LizartzaGaztelu
Leaburu
Altzo
AlbizturBeizama Bidegoyan Tolosa
IbarraBelauntza
Berastegi
Elduain
BerrobiHernialdeAnoeta
Irura
VillabonaAlkiza
Larraul
Errezil
AsteasuZizurkil
AdunaAndoain
Lasarte-OriaUrnieta
HernaniAstigarraga
Pasaia
ErrenteriaAntxo
San PedroDonibaneLezo
Irun
Hondarribia
Oiartzun
Aretxabaleta
Eskoriatza
Aia
Donostia-San Sebastin
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asque history has always been marked by thedevelopment of local
institutions, thus theBasque Country joined the kingdom of
Castile
while maintaining its own charters and organisationin the shape
of its general assemblies, or JuntasGenerales. Modern nationalism
had already beenborn when the provincial system was
dismantledfollowing the Carlist wars. Basque politics entered anew
stage after the Civil War, when the first BasqueGovernment had been
brought to an abrupt end,with the Estatuto de Gernika.
The abundance of prehistoric remains confirmsthe early presence
of man on Basque soil. The firstBasques, gradually developed their
own language,Basque or Euskara, which is considered to be evenolder
than the Indo-European languages. By thetime the Romans started
moving further afield, thelocal population had already organised
itself into anumber of tribes with the names of:
Vascones,Aquitanos, Vrdulos, Caristios and Autrigones, whohad very
little contact with one or another, or forthat matter with other
peoples.
The mountainous, wooded orography contributedto the north of the
Basque Country remainingsomewhat isolated. But not so the south, in
lava-Araba, where the Romans established a number ofsettlements.
This area was subsequently tobecome a passing place for the
Barbarians andserved to hinder the expansion of the Moors.
TheBasque territories depended on the kingdom ofNavarre, although
it was really the powerful feudal
lords, or jauntxos who ruled the roost from theirimpressive
tower-houses.
Swearing allegiance to the Basque chapters
The Road to Santiago, with its constant pilgrimcomings and
goings, helped to end this isolation.Throughout the 13th and 14th
centuries, theBasque territories broke their traditional links
withNavarre to join the Castilian crown, maintainingtheir autonomy
by means of chapters to which theCastilian kings had to swear
allegiance. Eachterritory was responsible for its own
administrationunder the respective Juntas Generales, and thecustoms
post separating the area from Castile wasestablished on the river
Ebro.
Thanks to the issuing of charters by the Castiliankings
permitting the foundation of towns, anumber of boroughs were
erected beyond thecontrol of the feudal lords who dominated the
ruralareas. There were continuous confrontationsbetween the
jauntxos, the heads of the differentclans, and particularly between
the leaders of theirreconcilable Oacino and Gambono clans.
Skilled fisherman and excellent shipbuilders, theBasques played
an important part in Spainsexpansion throughout America. The
shipping trade,iron mining and fishing boosted economicdevelopment
in the 16th century, before the over-exploitation of American
wealth, piracy andepidemics gave rise to an economic crisis.
The 18th century saw the establishment ofborders separating the
Basques on either side of
B
A BRIEF HISTORY
8
The earliest Basquesburied their dead beneathrobust dolmens like
thatof La Chabola de laHechicera in the part of he Rioja region
fallingwithin the province oflava-Araba, known asthe Rioja
alavesa.Near here, in theprotohistoric village ofLa Hoya, people
usedbronze earrings similarto those appearing below.
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A BIT OF HISTORY
100,000 YEARS AGO.Research has ruled out anumber of theories
thatthe first Basques arrivedfrom far-off places. Theforebears of
todaysBasques had been herefor over 100,000 yearsand probably
alreadyspoke a language similarto the local Euskera some7,000 years
ago, justimagine! The Stone AgeBasques left us menhirs,dolmens,
stone circlesand paintings on thewalls of the Santimamieand
Ventalaperra caves inBizkaia, and on those ofEkain and Altxerri
inGipuzkoa. Even in theStone Age a number ofcommunities
alreadyexisted such as La Hoya,the remains of which canstill be
visited in theRioja alavesa region.PROVINCIALAUTHORISATION.Charters
are ancientsocial customs that havebecome legal with time.When the
Basqueterritories, until thenlinked to the kingdom ofNavarre,
became part ofthe Castilian crown(Gipuzkoa and lava-Araba in 1200;
Bizkaiain 1379), theymaintained their chartersand administrations
inthe shape of the JuntasGenerales. In fact, theCastilian kings had
toswear that they wouldrespect these charters,
and thejuntas had theright to veto royalorders by means ofa
so-called PASEFORAL, or PROVINCIALAUTHORISATION. On theother hand,
agreementstaken by the JuntasGenerales had to beapproved by
themonarchy. This peculiarform of self-governmentcontinued until
the late19th century.
FOREIGN TRADE. TheBasque country, a land offishermen, played
anextremely important partin naval trade withAmerica throughout
the18th century. The Real
Compaa Guipuzcoanade Caracas, which at onestage had as many
asfifty vessels and theexclusive right to tradewith Venezuela,
broughtprosperity to bothDonostia-San Sebastinand to the nearby
Pasaia.The companys move to
Madrid andthe
subsequentindustrial
development in theprovince of Bizkaianevertheless lent
greaterimportance in the nextcentury to the port ofBilbao.
A REVOLUTION IF EVERTHERE WAS ONE.Industrialisation in thesecond
half of the 19thcentury broughtenormous change to theBasque
Country. Fromthe installation of thefirst blast furnaces,namely
those of SantaAna in Bolueta (1849),industrial revolution and
economic developmenttransformed thelandscape of GreaterBilbao
and an importantpart of Gipuzkoa. WhileBizkaia specialised in
theiron and steel and navalindustries, Gipuzkoabegan specialising
in themaking of paper and
machine tools. Thisperiod saw the beginningof decline in
theagricultural world. Thearrival of immigrants ledthe population
of Bizkaiato double in barely fiftyyears.
THE NEW BASQUECOUNTRY. Havingrecovered from theconsequences of
theindustrial crisis, the lastfew years of the20th centurysaw
localtechnologicaland
social development, notto mention the renovationof
infrastructures andequipment. Perhaps thetitanium of theGuggenheim
MuseumBilbao is the best imageof this new BasqueCountry as it
strides intothe 21st century.
Primus circundedisti me. That was the motto on the coat ofarms
bearing a globe of the earth awarded by Carlos V to a Basqueman,
Juan Sebastin Elkano. This sailor from Getaria was an officeron the
expedition headed by Magallanes and finally became captainof the
Victoria, the only ship to make it back to Sanlcar deBarrameda
after having been the first to have made it round theworld. Elkanos
native village remembers him with a monumentand a four-yearly
representation of his disembarkation.
Many other Basques were likewise outstanding navigators
andconquerors, such as: Andrs de Urdaneta, Miguel Lpez de
Legazpi,Antonio de Okendo, Cosme Damin Churruca and Juan de
Garay.
THE FIRST PERSON TO MAKE IT ALL THE WAY ROUND
Guggenheim Bilbao Photograph by: Erika Barahona
DOWN THROUGHTHE AGES FROM
IRON TO TITANIUM
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10
the river Bidasoa. The new economic boom andspirit of learning
gave rise to the appearance ofcompanies including the Real
CompaaGuipuzcoana de Caracas or the Real SociedadBascongada de
Amigos del Pas. There were alsooccasional popular uprisings, or
matxinadas, suchas the one that put paid to the attempts of Felipe
Vto dismantle the customs post on the river Ebro.
Two opposing viewsThe Basque Country was intensely involved in
the
19th century Carlist Wars, which, set around adynastic conflict,
brought a provincial vision, thenrelated to the nobility and
peasantry of the AncientRegime, into conflict with an incipient
nationalvision associated to the new liberal bourgeoisie. In1876,
at the end of the Third Carlist War, charterswere abolished and the
customs posts weretransferred to the coast and the border
withFrance. Despite the loss of sovereignty, a system ofeconomic
concerts was established between thedifferent county councils and
the state, accordingto which the former would take in taxes
andacquire a number of powers, while paying a yearly
sum to the latter for its services.
The industrial revolution, together with economicliberalisation
and strong immigration, had a radicaleffect on the Basque
landscape.
The late 19th century saw the birth of modernnationalism, which
in the Second Republicsucceeded in promoting a Statute of
Autonomy,though approved once the Civil War had alreadybroken out,
thus putting paid to the newexpectations. Francos dictatorship
abolishedeconomic concerts and endeavoured to repress allof the
Basque signs of identity.
On Francos death, in 1979, the Estatuto deGernika was passed,
hence granting the BasqueAutonomous Government its own Parliament
andGovernment with authority in basic matters. Theprovinces of
lava-Araba, Bizkaia and Gipuzkoamaintained the right to collect
taxes through theirregional governments and recovered their
JuntasGenerales.
A BRIEF HISTORY
The tree under which theBizkaian JuntasGenerales would meet,
infact a descendent of theoriginal oak, is regardedas highly
symbolic by allBasques.
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A BRIEF HISTORY
The tower-houses stillstanding in the BasqueCountry recall a
series ofconflicts, known as theguerras banderizas,which spread
throughthe country in theMiddle Ages.The territory wasfragmented
aroundseveral feudal lords, orparientes mayores, andthe fighters
were splitinto two basic factions,the Oacinos and theGambonos,
enemies tothe death.
Tower-houses weretherefore as muchdefensive constructionsas they
were economicand organisational units,and the guerrasbanderizas
subsequentlyled to Enrique IVforbidding theirconstruction.Those
still standing aretall and thick-walled,with a square orrectangular
ground plan.Some of the mostbeautiful tower-housesstill surviving
todayare the:
CASA-TORRE DEMENDOZA, near Vitoria-Gasteiz. The OacinoMendozas
lived in thistall, impregnable towersurrounded by a wallbearing
angle turrets.Later used as a prison,this building presentlyhouses
the Museo deHerldica.
PALACIO FUERTE DEAYALA, in Quejana(lava-Araba). Thisfortified
palace of theAyala family, a lineagewhich went on to give itsname
to the entire valley,is well worth the visit.Particularly
outstandingis the turret containingthe chapel of the Virgendel
Cabello, with its
authentic alabastersepulchres and replica ofthe altarpiece.
Theoriginal is on display inChicago.
CASTILLO DEMUATONES, in Muskiz(Bizkaia). Now beingrestored, this
castle haseverything youd expectto find in a medievalcastle,
including a moatand double walls.
CASTILLO DEBUTRON, in Gatika(Bizkaia). The 19thcentury
restoration of a14th century tower-housegave rise to an
imposing45-metre highconstruction with a
multitude of little turretsgiving the visitor thefeeling of
having beenspirited back to theMiddle Ages.
TORRE DE ERCILLA,in Bermeo (Bizkaia).Ancestral home of Alonsode
Ercilla and presentlyof the Museo delPescador, this tower
haspointed openings and aturreted cornice.
CASTILLO DEGAUTEGIZ ARTEAGA(Bizkaia). EmpressEugenia de Montijo
hadthis castle built in the19th century accordingto the
contemporaryfashion of recoveringstyles of the past.
TORRE DEMUNTSARATZ, inAbadio (Bizkaia). Anextremely beautiful
towerto which Renaissancewindows were lateradded.
TORRE LUZEA, inZarautz (Gipuzkoa).Standing in the centre ofthe
Kale Nagusia or mainstreet of Zarautz, this isthe best conserved
tower-house in Gipuzkoa. Inaddition to its beautifulexterior aspect
is a lovelyinterior staircase.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS Casas de Juntas(ASSEMBLY HOUSES)
Tall towers with thick walls and slender windows.Thats what the
houses of the medieval lords lookedlike. Although many of these
tower-houses no longer
exist, the visitor will discover from a distance theslender
stone outline of some of these typicallymedieval constructions, not
to mention other highlyattractive castles and palaces.
TOWER-HOUSES AND CASTLES
Gautegiz Arteaga Castle
The Basque Countrycontains a number oftowers
symbolisingfragmentation and othersevoking the combinationof
forces. This is the caseof the CASA DE JUNTASDE ABELLANEDA
inSopuerta (Bizkaia), atower-house at which theJuntas
Generalesmeetings were heldbetween the tenrepublics making up
theEncartaciones region.Although this ensembleof medieval
constructionshas experienced anumber of modificationsover the
centuries, itnevertheless continues tomaintain its symbolicvalue.
It is likewise homeof the attractive Museode las Encartaciones.
Better known is theCASA DE JUNTAS DEGERNIKA where theJunta
members from theentire Bizkaian feudalestate would meet.Although
this is a 19thcentury Neo-classicalbuilding, it wasconstructed over
themedieval church of SantaMara de la Antigua.Headquarters of the
re-established JuntasGenerales de Bizkaia,both the building
itselfand the historic Gernikaoak tree can be visited.
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he Basque Country offers an interestingselection of aesthetic
styles ranging from
cave paintings to state-of-the-art constructions.The Romanesque
stonework of the Basilica deEstibalitz, the great Gothic temples
and towers, theimpressive Baroque style of the Loiola Sanctuary,the
joint work of the Basque avant-garde artists atArantzazu or the
international modernity of theGuggenheim Museum Bilbao are only
some of thefeatures on the long road through the BasqueCountry and
its monuments.
The earliest artistic expressions are to be foundin the caves of
Ventalaperra (Carranza),Santimamie (Kortezubi), Altxerri (Orio) and
Ekain(Deba). The cave painters hunters leftbeautiful, schematic
images of horses, bison andbears. The prehistoric Basques also
bequeathed uswith striking funerary constructions dolmens andstone
circles or the statue of a mysterious animalin the shape of the
dolo de Mikeldi, now housed inBilbaos Museo Arqueolgico Vasco.
The Romans likewise left their mark in theremains of
architectural works, such as Mantiblebridge in Assa (Rioja
alavesa), the seven arches ofwhich span the 164 metres of the river
Ebro, orthe Oppidum de Irua near Vitoria-Gasteiz, acomplete Roman
city.
lava-Araba, a place of passage and artery ofthe inland route to
Santiago de Compostela, wasextremely important in the early Middle
Ages,hence the fact that the greatest number andbest examples of
Romanesque constructionsare to be found in this province. The
churchof San Prudencio, in Armentia, and the basilica
of Estibalitz stand out sharply against theAlavese Plain.
Also worth a mention are two somewhat laterRomanesque
constructions, the church of AndraMari de Elexalde in Galdakao
(Bizkaia) and thesanctuary of Santa Mara La Antigua inZumarraga
(Gipuzkoa), considered as thecathedral of Basque hermitages. A
number ofRomanesque religious sculptures are also to befound in the
area.
Gothic gems
Increased development in the Basque Countryduring the late
Middle Ages has left its mark incountless examples of Gothic
architecture. Inaddition to churches, this style is to be found
infortifications, the layout of walled villages andtowns,
administrative buildings and tower-houses.The growing importance of
cities at that time meansthat we can also admire Gothic
constructions inVitoria-Gasteiz (Catedral de Santa Mara),
Bilbao(the rehabilitated Catedral de Santiago), orDonostia-San
Sebastin (San Vicente Church).
But we mustnt forget to mention other Gothicgems. The Torre de
los Mendoza, the frescoescovering the church of Gaceo and the
entire rangeof historical monuments in Laguardia, lava-Araba.The
churches dedicated to Santa Mara in Lekeitio,Gernika-Lumo and
Ordua, and the Torre deMuatones in Bizkaia. The area within the
walls ofHondarribia, the Torre Luzea in Zarautz and thechurch of
San Salvador in Getaria, Gipuzkoa.
The 16th century saw a rise in Renaissanceconstruction
throughout the Basque Country,
T
THE BASQUE COUNTRY AND ITS MONUMENTS
12
The strong VaronaTower, which started tobe built in the
14thcentury in Villanae(Alava), is nowadaysone of the
best-preservedfortified sites in theBasque Country.
12
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THE ROMANS OFIRUA. Right next toVitoria-Gasteiz, inTrespuentes,
we can visitthe site of what musthave been a city inRoman imperial
times.The Oppidum de Irua isa Roman settlementsurrounded by a
thickwall corresponding to theancientVeleia. Wecan still seethe
remainsof a forum,the layout ofthe urbanstructureand
twobridgesspanning theriverZadorra.
ROMANESQUE BRIDGEIN BALMASEDA. ThePuente Viejo, or de laMuza, is
one of the most
symbolic elements to befound in Balmaseda.Built in the 13th
centuryover the ruins of aprevious construction,this Romanesque
bridge,now a nationalmonument, was anobligatory place ofpassage on
the ancientroad to Castile.
FLEMISH ALTARPIECEIN LEKEITIO. The Gothicperiod left one of its
gemsin Lekeitios church of
Santa Mara de laAsuncin (Bizkaia). Inaddition to admiring
thebuildings typically Gothicbuttresses and flyingbuttresses, we
mustntmiss the centralaltarpiece depicting thelife of Mary and
thePassion of Christ. Thisbuilding is attributed to aFlemish master
highlyskilled in expressivenessand detail.
RENAISSANCEUNIVERSITY. In theBasque Country referringto
Renaissance meansreferring to OatiUniversity (Gipuzkoa), aparadigm
of the said stylethanks to both itsarchitectural form andopen
spirit. TheUniversidad del SanctiSpiritus is a beautifulbuilding
set around aserene patio. APlateresque facade with
allegoric figuresand two higherbodies on eitherextreme
conferdistinction uponthis delightfullyharmoniousconstruction.
MODERNISTBILBAO.Modernistaesthetics, withsculptural facades and
artnouveau decoration, wasfashionable in Bilbao andcan still be
seen inbuildings such as theCasa Montero (on theAlameda de Recalde)
orthe Teatro CamposElseos, both decoratedby the Frenchman,
Darroguy. Donostia-SanSebastins Calle Primalso has a number
ofbuildings bearing aprofusion of Modernistdecoration.
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2000 YEARSBRICK BY
BRICK
Although the work of contemporaryarchitects and sculptors is to
be foundthroughout the Basque Country, the Santuario deArantzazu is
perhaps the best example of avant-garde art.
Several creators came together in the 50s tobuild this new
basilica in a privileged setting; awork that completely broke away
from previousarchitectural aesthetics. The architectural projectwas
drawn up by Sinz de Oiza and Luis Laorga.The sculptures on the
facade (with thirteenapostles instead of twelve) are by Jorge
Oteiza.The doors, by a young Eduardo Chillida. Thesplendid
altarpiece, by Lucio Muoz. And thepaintings in the crypt by Nestor
Basterretxea.
Simply unique.
A REVOLUTIONARY collaboration
THE BASQUE COUNTRY AND ITS MONUMENTS
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THE BASQUE COUNTRY AND ITS MONUMENTS
although this often meant the mutilation of medievaltower-houses
in order to add galleries, or thecompletion of churches started in
earlier centuries.This period saw the breakthrough of a new kind
oftemple, the salon church, with three vaultednaves of the same
height intended to create onesingle space. Gipuzkoa houses the most
splendidexamples of Renaissance architecture with OatiUniversity
and the Real Seminario de Bergara. Thesculptural work on these
buildings varies betweencompletely over-the-top Plateresque
decoration, acertain expressive Mannerism introduced by
foreignartists, and the serenity of the altarpieces carved byJuan
de Antxieta, from Azpeitia.
The Baroque movement was responsible for animpressive
construction, the Sanctuario de Loiolain Azpeitia (Gipuzkoa). This
church is principallysurrounded by buildings used as convents,
usuallywith a cruciform ground plan and the typicallyornamental
simplicity employed after the Councilof Trent. A similar schema
repeats itself in thenumerous town halls erected during this
period(Labastida, Elorrio, Durango, with Roccocopaintings, Oati,
Arrasate-Mondragn, etc.), all ofwhich have porticoed arches and
facades bearingthe local coats-of-arms.
After centuries marked by a predominance ofreligious
architecture, Neo-classicism led to civilarchitecture and to the
development of urbanism.The Casa de Juntas de Gernika dates from
thisperiod, as do the suburbs of the different capitals,Bilbaos
graceful Plaza Nueva and the square ofthe same name in
Vitoria-Gasteiz, a cityoutstanding for its Los Arquillos ensemble,
animaginative architectural solution to the heightdifference
between two areas.
The triumph of eclecticism
Eclecticism was to triumph in the BasqueCountry in the 19th
century, when it adaptedelements from different styles and used
them tocreate buildings with their own particularpersonality, such
as the Ayuntamiento,the Palacio de la Diputacin (Regional
CountyBuilding) and the Teatro Arriaga in Bilbao,or the Hotel Mara
Cristina, the Teatro VictoriaEugenia and the Gran Casino (presently
theTown Hall) in the capital of Gipuzkoa.Both capitals, Bilbao and
Donostia-SanSebastin, were the scene of modernistarchitectural
construction during the early20th century.
The best example of contemporary aestheticsis the Arantzazu
Sanctuary, collective workamongst whose creators already figured
JorgeOteiza and Eduardo Chillida, two recently deceased geniuses
whose debates and proposalsgreatly influenced the twentieth
century. Samplesof Chillidas work, such as the Peine de los
Vientos(The Windcomb) are to be found beside the seain San
Sebastin, in the Plaza de los Fueros inVitoria-Gasteiz and in the
Parque de los Pueblosde Europa in Gernika-Lumo.
Together with the activity of numerous highlyinteresting Basque
creators of all kinds of art,recent years have seen the carrying
out ofimportant projects, sometimes entrusted toprestigious foreign
architects, as is the caseof the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (Frank
Gehry),and the Bilbao underground (Norman Foster),or the Kursaal
Centre by Rafael Moneo fromNavarre.
The perfect example ofBaroque grandiosity inthe Basque Country
isthe Santuario de Loiolain Azpeitia (Gipuzkoa).Designed by one
ofBerninis disciples, CarlosFontana, and with adecisive
Churrigueresqueinfluence, the mostoutstanding part of theensemble
is its centralbasilica. The spectaculardome, 65 metres high,has
been subject to allsorts of complicatedrepair work in theattempt to
stop it fromcracking.
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THE BASQUE COUNTRY AND ITS MONUMENTS
CHURCH OF OURLADY OF EL JUNCAL.This emblematic buildingof Irun,
in Basque gothicstyle, started to be builtin 1508. Its
insidepreserves exceptionalworks: the image of OurLady of El
Juncal, theoldest in Gipuzkoa, and a17th century highaltarpiece, a
work by Juande Bascardo and Domingode Zatarain.
SANTIAGOMENDIHERMITAGE.
A simple, symbolicconstruction inAstigarraga.
Thealabastersculpture of theapostle is nowhoused
atDonostia-SanSebastinsMuseoDiocesano.
CHURCH OF LAASUNCIN. This magnificent exampleof the 16th century
gothicstyle, with a notablechurrigueresquealtarpiece, is one of
themany appeals in Segurasmedieval quarter. Thischurch does not
lack achapel devoted toSantiago.
HERMITAGE OFSANCTI - SPIRITUS.Located in the vicinity ofthe San
Adrian Tunnel,this hermitage, thatformerly was a templarhospital,
is the naturalfrontier between Gipuzkoaand lava. At its foot, wecan
see the big house ofthe mikeletes (GipuzkoasProvincial Police),
nowused as a mountain hut.
Hermitage of SANJULIAN and SANTABASILISA. Havingsuccessfully
made their waythrough the emblematicSan Andran tunnelseparating
Gipuzkoa fromlava-Araba, pilgrims wouldstop for a rest at this
pre-Romanesque hermitage inZalduondo.
Church of SAN MARTINDE GACEO.The entire apse andpresbytery
arespectacularly covered inGothic paintings depictingreligious
scenes.
ESTIBALITZ Santuary.Offers one of the bestexamples of
medievalarchitecture in theBasque Country andhouses a 12th
centurystatue of this patron saintof lava-Araba.
BASILICA OF SANPRUDENCIO.In Armentia (Vitoria-Gasteiz), still
maintainsits beauty despite themany alterations to whichit has been
subjectedsince its constructiontowards the end of the12th century.
Inside theportico we can still seeparts of the ancientRomanesque
doorway.Dont miss thetympanums of the Lamband the Saviour.
THE COASTAL ROAD
the inland road
Pilgrims heading for Santiago made theirway through the Basque
Country via one oftwo itineraries, by the Coastal Road, along
therugged coast of Gipuzkoa and on into thegreen valleys of
Bizkaia, or by the Inland Road,across the Alavese plain via San
Adrin tunnel.Two routes which now permit travellers todiscover the
diversity of the Basque Countryand to appreciate the art preserved
forcenturies in beautiful hermitages, churchesand basilicas.
Two routes and one destination
San Martn de Gaceo
San Prudencio
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EN ROUTE FOR SANTIAGO
DE COMPOSTELA
Markina-Xemein
Ziortza-Cenarruza
ZamudioPortugalete
Zalduondo
Salvatierra
GaceoEstibaliz
Tnel deSan Adrin
ElburgoAriez
Lapuebla de Arganzn
ArminRibabellosa
Zambrana
Gernika-Lumo
Morga
Larrabetzu
Gees
Zalla
Balmaseda
Sestao
Zierbena
Muskiz
Bilbao
Vitoria-GasteizArmentia
Salinillas de Buradn
Irun
HondarribiaDonostia-
San Sebastin
Andoain
Tolosa
Zarautz
ZumaiaOiartzun
AstigarragaHernani
Villabona
Alegia
OrdiziaBeasain
SeguraZegama
Pasaia
Getaria
1
2Orio
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6
7
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3
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5
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GUADALUPESANCTUARY. This sobertemple, home of the
highlyvenerated 15th centuryVirgen de Guadalupe, standson Mount
Jaizkibel, besidethe scenic road leading upfrom Hondarribia.
HERMITAGE OF SANMARTIN DE TOURS. InOrio, accommodates abeautiful
Plateresque imageof the pilgrims patron saint.
ITZIAR SANCTUARY. Anobligatory stop for pilgrimsat the top of
the hillbetween Zumaia and Deba,this sanctuary houses adelightful
13th centurystatue of the Virgen and aPlateresque altarpiece.
HERMITAGE OF SANMIGUEL DE ARRETXINAGA.A natural triple
megalithforms the spectacular altar ofthis highly unusual
hexagonalhermitage located in Markina-Xemein.
CENARRUZACOLLEGIATE CHURCH. Atrack leads to Ziortza(Cenarruza in
Spanish) andto the only collegiate church
in Bizkaia.Its altarpiecesand chapels present a widerange of
artistic styles.
BASILICA OF THEVIRGEN DE BEGOA. Thistemple venerating thepatron
saint of Bizkaiatowers over Bilbao from anearby hill. Although
thebasilica dates from the late-Gothic period, the beautifulimage
of the Virgen isactually Romanesque.
The Gothic church of SANSEVERINO in Balmasedawas erected in the
14th and15th centuries. A number ofsubsequent Baroqueadditions are
responsible forits remarkable morphology.
San Severino
Cenarruza Collegiate Church
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ertsolaris (poets who improvise verse in theBasque language),
dantzaris (performers offolkloric dances), txalapartaris
(percussionists as per ancient tradition),harrijasotzailes
(stone-lifters) or segalaris (grass-cutters). These are not strange
beings, but modernBasques dedicated to preventing thedisappearance
of age-old traditions. Thecombination of common folkloric elements
withthe peculiarities of the different Basquepopulations gives rise
to an endless selection offestive expressions the whole year round,
not tomention a number of important internationalfestivals.
The rural world, with the farmhouse or baserria atthe centre of
the family, agriculture andstockbreeding, has lost a good deal of
its formerimportance in Basque life. This said, thefarmhouse
culture is yet to be found behind most
of the typical sports, fiestas and traditionsthat have adapted
to moderntimes without losing any of theiroriginal spirit.
The Basques have converted farmchores into competitive sports
and a way of havingfun. Challenges and a proverbial love of betting
havemade a job as hard as log-cutting into a popularsport where two
woodcutters, or aizkolaris, stand ontrunks of wood similar in
thickness and compete tosee who is the best with the axe.
Grass-cutting, stone-lifting, and even thesheepdog trials where
farmers and their quick-witted dogs lead sheep round a circuit, are
nowinstitutionalised rural sports or herri kirolak, as are
others such as the soka-tira, where two teamsmeasure their
strength in a tug-of-war, skittlesand, of course, Basque pelota in
its differentmodalities, be it hand, bat or cesta-punta
(seepicture).
Herri kirolak, which survive not only as
folkloricrepresentations for the tourists, but as lively
eventsattracting hordes of local enthusiasts, are presentat all
agricultural fairs, religious processions orrural fiestas worth
their salt, as are other examplesof Basque idiosyncrasy. First in
this respect istraditional music and dance, proof of a
wealthyfolkloric heritage. Next are the bertsolaris, thosehighly
admired performers of improvised oralliterature who have had such
an influence on thetransmission of Euskera, the millenary language
ofthe Basques.
Last but not least, are the traditional crafts.Wooden objects,
ranging from yokes for tying oxentogether, kutxas (carved trunks)
or makilas(walking sticks) are still made by a small group ofwood
craftsmen. But we mustnt forget theargizaiola, a decoratively
carved piece of woodaround which a long wax candle is wound
andwhich was lit in times gone by to provide thedeceased with light
in the world of darkness. Thistraditional object actually dates
from pre-Christianity, the expressions of which were
largelyassimilated by the Catholic religion.
Springtime: masks and dances
One of the aspects on the Basque festive andcultural calendar to
be found the whole year roundis folklore. Although most of events
of this kind
b
FIESTAS AND TRADITIONS
16
The Basques work hardat keeping their ancienttraditions
alive.
-
TWO PIECES OFWOOD. Youll bepleasantly surprised atany fiesta to
discover thelocally exclusive musicalinstruments. Thetxalaparta is
an ancientform of percussion: twoplanks of wood, twopeople and two
sticks yetagain of wood produce anever-ending variety ofrhythms and
sounds. Thetrikitixa or diatonicaccordion, accompaniedby a
tambourine player,produces a sound ofcontagious gaiety. Thealboka
is an ancient windinstrument. Morecommon is howeverthe
high-pitchedtxistu whistle, whichis played with threefingers of the
lefthand,leavingthe righthand freeto playthe drum.
LEGS UP!Basque folkloreinvolves all sortsof populardances.
Thedantzarisperform ineither all-malegroups(sometimesincluding
thespectacular
ezpata-danza or sword dance) orin groups of men andwomen. One of
the mostspectacular solitarydances is the aurresku,where the
dancersolemnly kicks a leg upto head height. Thisdance is performed
as amark of respect or by wayof a welcome at differentevents.
IMPROVISED VERSE.Ever since ancient times,bertsolaris have
beenpractising an extremelystrange kind of oral
literature in the Basquelanguage. Respondingto a subject given
to
them at the momentof standing up to
sing, ordialecticallyconfronted with
anotherimproviser,
thesebertsolarishave toinvent
verses beforethe audience in
keeping with strict rulesof rhythm and metrics.Imagination,
depth, socialcriticism and the odd bitof mischief are
concealed in thewords of these
sharp-witted poets.
SPORTS FOR THESTRONGEST. One of thesports only carried out bythe
harrijasotzailes orstone-lifters is that oflifting a stone
weighing
over 300 kilos up toshoulder height. Thelifting of
cylindrical,rectangular, cubic andround stones is one ofthe most
impressive ruralsports. Other modalitieswith a strong
traditionalflavour are the cutting oftrunks with an axe
byaizkolaris, the cutting ofgrass with a scythe bysegolaris, or the
pulling
of stones by oxen, knownas idi probak.
BY HAND. Basque pelotais by far the most popularlocal sport. It
is played ina large part of thepeninsula and in theSouth of France,
as wellas having been takenacross theocean toAmerica.Pelotacourts,
to befound in eventhe smallestBasque hamlet,watch over theplayers
of thedifferent modalities asthey evolve from playingwith the hand
to the
spectacular cesta-punta,via the version where theball is hit
with a woodenbat. The coming and goingof bets between spectatorsis
an essential part of theproceedings.
FIESTAS AND TRADITIONS
17
A COUNTRY WITH ITS OWNPERSONALITY
Thirteen oarsmen and a captain form the crew of thefixed-thwart
rowing boats that participate in the competitionswhich each summer
awaken fiery passion in the supporters ofthe different colours.
This competition originated in thestruggle the coastal fishermen
used to make in the attempt toreach harbour first and sell their
wares before the others.
The fixed-thwart rowing competitions now require a greatdeal of
physical training and end in a spectacular final battlefor the
Bandera de la Concha flag. People flock to the bay ofthe same name,
where they follow each stroke of the oar withan eagle eye.
THE BEATING OF OARS
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FIESTAS AND TRADITIONS
The aizkolaris,or competitors whochop wood eitherhorizontally or
vertically,have made farmworkinto a sport out.
take place in summer, the Basque AutonomousCommunity offers
interesting rendezvous in each ofthe four seasons.
In spring we can have a ball at the Carnival orInauteriak. This
happy-go-lucky festivity has bestpreserved its atmosphere in the
smaller villages,and particularly in Tolosa (Gipuzkoa), than it
hasdone in the capitals. The relative carnivallicentiousness gives
way to the solemnity of Easter,with the popular representations of
the Passionand Death of Christ in Balmaseda, Durango andGaldakao
(Bizkaia), not to mention those ofAzkoitia, Segura and Hondarribia
in Gipuzkoa.
In addition to the tattoo and drum parade of SanPrudencio in
Vitoria-Gasteiz, two unusual andrather touching festivities bring
the spring cycle toa close: that of La Santa Cruz, in
Legazpi(Gipuzkoa), when the Mirandaola forge is set inmotion, and
that of the Corpus Christi processionin Oati (Gipuzkoa), the masks
and dances ofwhich date back at least to 1478.
Summer: fireworks and jazz
Its no exaggeration to say that the BasqueCountry becomes one
big fiesta in summertime.Festive rendezvous come one after the
otheraround a number of specific dates. In June, SanJuan (be
careful not to miss the festivities incelebration of the patron
saints day in Tolosa whenthe Bordon-dantza is performed, or the
religiousprocession to the Hermitage of San Juan deGaztelugatxe),
San Pedro (when the Kaxarranka isdanced in Lekeitio), and San
Marcial, theculminating moment of which is the noisy militaryparade
(Alarde) in Irun. Both the latter and
Hondarribia celebrate their patron saints day inthe same way, by
donning red berets and sporting agun over their shoulders in memory
of pastvictories over the French army. The San MarcialAlarde
celebrated in both Irun (30th June) andHondarribia (8th September)
is massively attendedby men and women from the towns along the
riverBidasoa.
July and the day of the Virgen del Carmen (thepatron saint of
fishermen) bring celebration toseafaring villages such as Plentzia
and Santurtzi.In Antzuola (Gipuzkoa), the Alarde del
Morocommemorates a historical episode. The Fiestas dela Magdalena
bring Errenteria (Gipuzkoa) andBermeo (Bizkaia) to life, while the
latter has acurious tradition of celebrating having obtained
theownership of Izaro Island. But theres more tocome. The Da del
Blusa (when groups ofyoungsters dress in different coloured tunics)
inVitoria-Gasteiz, or the fiesta in celebration of SaintIgnatius,
patron saint of Bizkaia and Gipuzkoa,particularly popular in
Azpeitia and Getxo.
In August, the festive temperature rises slightly (ifpossible)
with the avalanche of events organised inVitoria-Gasteiz in
celebration of La Virgen Blancaand in Donostia-San Sebastin and
Bilbao duringtheir respective Semanas Grandes or Big Weeks.
Although Getaria celebrates its patron saints dayeach year, it
is only on every fourth year that wecan see the performance
representing Elkanosdisembarkation from his voyage round the
world.
Summer in the Basque Country is festival time.For example, the
Jazz Festival. Lovers of this genre
18
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FIESTAS AND TRADITIONS
DRUMS BY THETHOUSAND. The SanSebastian Daycelebrations in the
city of
the same name last for24 hours, from midnighton the 19th January
untilmidnight on the 20th,
when thecity flag ishoisted andloweredrespectively.During
thistime, tens ofdrum andbarrel
beating companiesdressed in elegantuniforms dating
fromNapoleonic times ordressed as chefs, marchthrough even the
smalleststreets of San Sebastinplaying a number ofmelodies
speciallycomposed for theoccasion by RaimundoSarriegui. At 12
oclockon the 20th the kids taketo the streets. Over5,000
youngstersparticipate withdelightfully serious facesin the
childrens drumparade.
IN FULL FANCY DRESS.Although the Carnival,previously announced
bythe Caldereros procession(in memory of Hungariangypsies) in
Donostia-SanSebastin, is celebratedin all three capitals, thereal
fun is to be had inother places, like Tolosa,with its
well-deservedreputation for high jinxand revelry. Of longparodic
tradition, thisevent succeeded insurviving the prohibitiondeclared
by Francothanks to being renamedFiestas de Primavera(Spring
Fiestas).
Zalduondo, Salcedo,Campezo / Kanpezuand Salvatierra /Agurain in
lava-Araba,or Mundaka and Markina-Xemein, in Bizkaia, alllive their
fiesta de lasmscaras with similarintensity. The star ofthe Markina
Carnival is abear.
DANCING ON ACHEST. Eightsailors carry awooden chest orkutxa on
theirshoulderswhile adantzaribedeckedwith top hatdances uponit.
This peculiar event,known as the kaxarranka,and started by
thefishermens guild, takesplace in Lekeitio every29th June, on
SaintPeters Day. This event isenthusiasticallycelebrated in the
BasqueCountry, as is SaintJohns Day (24th June)when the night
becomesalight with the flames ofthe purifying bonfires.
A 500-YEAR OLDTRADITION. The CorpusChristi fiesta in June
iscelebrated by means of asplendid procession inOati (Gipuzkoa),
duringwhich the ancient KorpusDantzak dances areperformed. The
membersof the Brotherhood of theApostolado who participatein the
procession wearspectacular masksrepresenting Christ,
San Miguel andthe apostles.
Despite the fact that there is no proven relationshipbetween
these two relatively recent characters, Marijaia andCeledn
nevertheless share a popularity which has made theminto the symbols
of the respective patron saints festivities inBilbao and
Vitoria-Gasteiz.
Celedn, wearing a tunic and holding an umbrella abovehis head,
descends each 4th August into the Plaza de la VirgenBlanca to open
the fiestas held in his honour in Vitoria-Gasteiz. The enormous
Marijaia, with her arms held up high,presides over the Aste Nagusia
or Big Week celebrations inBilbao, which bring the capital to life
during the seven daysfollowing the 15th August.
Taking place somewhere between the other two,Donostia-San
Sebastin rounds off a fiesta-packed month ofAugust in the three
Basque capitals with its Semana grande.The fiestas of
Vitoria-Gasteiz and Bilbao are far livelier thanthat of San
Sebastin, thus making the latter ideal for themore relaxed. All
three have a firework competition, open-airfestivities and a number
of bull-fighting events, although theseare more popular in
Bilbao.
MARIJAIA AND CELEDN
19
FROM FIESTATO FIESTA ALL
YEAR ROUND
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can choose from a selection of three events takingplace in July.
The first, in Getxo, is the mostEuropean of the three; the second,
in Vitoria-Gasteiz, is the most complete and offers more
starappearances than the others; the third option,Donostia-San
Sebastins Jazzaldia, has a touch ofseniority and the added
attraction of the fact thatmost of the concerts take place in the
open air.But there are also options for other musical tastes,such
as the International Folklore Festival inPortugalete, or the
important classical musicfestival, the Quincena Musical, held each
year inSan Sebastin.
Autumn: military parades and cinema
September brings the San Antoln fiestas toLekeitio and those of
the Virgen de Guadalupe andhence the military parade, or Alarde,
toHondarribia. Another parade, held later in October,and that known
as Errebombillos, takes place inElorrio.
Although Donostia-San Sebastin isntHollywood, it does become a
miniature versioneach September. The Film Festival, the
onlyinternational competitive event of its kind inSpain, attracts
countless film buffs in search ofoeuvres by new directors and of
the famous faceswho parade their glamour through the streets ofthe
city.
Autumn also offers a number of cultural events:Bilbao sees the
start of the ABAO opera season
and the International Documentary and Short FilmFestival;
Vitoria-Gasteiz is the venue of theInternational Theatre Festival;
Tolosa organises theChoral Competition; and Donostia-San Sebastin
asecond cinematographic contest, the increasinglypopular Fantasy
and Horror Film Festival.
Winter: drums and books
Winter is introduced by Santo Toms fair, whenagricultural
products and a flavour of thecountryside are brought right into the
centre of twocapital cities: Donostia-San Sebastin and
Bilbao.Christmas Eve sees the arrival of the Olentzero,
apot-bellied charcoal burner with pre-Christian rootswho has become
a sort of local Santa Claus.Christmas is celebrated differently in
Labastida(lava-Araba), where 17th century dances areperformed, and
in Lazkao (Gipuzkoa) where Maryand Josephs flight to Egypt is
re-enacted at thefiesta known as Astotxo (Little Donkey).
The 20th January marks the day on which the rollof drums is to
be heard throughout Donostia-SanSebastin. The celebrations in
honour of the cityspatron saint and the melodies of
RaimundoSarriegui continue all day long. Two days later,Oyn-Oion
(lava-Araba) is the setting for apeculiar procession known as
Katxi.
There are fewer cultural rendezvous in winter,although we mustnt
forget the Basque Book andRecord Fair in Durango, showcase of the
yearsproduction in the Basque language.
20
FIESTAS AND TRADITIONS
The Fiesta de la Blancatakes place during thefirst week in
August inhonour of the Virgen delas Nieves. The festivitiesbegin
with the Descentof Celedn, the characterin local dress who, usingan
umbrella as aparachute, descends fromthe bell tower of SanMiguel
into the Plaza dela Virgen Blanca.
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FILM CAPITAL. Each September, theZinemaldia makesDonostia-San
Sebastininto a film city where thebrilliance of the stars whowalk
its carpet combineswith the queues ofcinema buffs waiting tobook
tickets, and theofficial competition forthe Golden Shell with
theinteresting retrospectivesand surprise films.
QUINCENA MUSICAL.Each summer, the capitalof Gipuzkoa
experiencesthe excitement ofclassical music.Symphony,
chamber,organ, contemporarymusic, childrensconcerts and operas
offermusic-lovers a thrillingfestival which now lastsfor almost a
monthinstead of the initialfortnight.
JAZZALDIA. The longest running jazzfestival in the BasqueCountry
takes place atthe end of July, whenwarm melodies can beenjoyed in
the open air ateither the Plaza de laTrinidad or beside theKursaal
Centre.
OPERA CAPITAL. Bilbao, with its longlyrical tradition, can
beconsidered as the BasqueCountrys opera capital.The ABAO
(AsociacinBilbana de Amigos de laOpera) has been stagingopera
seasons neverlacking in big names ornew values beencontinuously
staging forthe last approximatelyfifty years. Verdi is thecomposer
whos workappears most often onthe programme.
ZINEBI: InternationalFestival of Documentaryand Short Film.The
most recent andyoungest audiovisualproducts are screened inNovember
at BilbaosInternationalDocumentary and ShortFilm Festival.
THE JAZZ CAPITAL.While not forgettingDonostia-San Sebastinand
Getxo, each JulyVitoria-Gasteiz becomesthe centre of attention
forlovers of this kind ofmusic. Since 1977,important soloists
andbands have been faithfulto this Jazz Festival, oneof the most
prestigious inits genre.
THEATRE FESTIVAL. In autumn, tens ofcompanies burst onto
thestages of Vitoria-Gasteizwith their latest works toparticipate
in theInternational TheatreFestival.
NEFF: New EuropeanFilm Festival of Vitoria-Gasteiz. The
MontehermosoCultural Centre, thePrincipal Theatre, andcinemas
screens in thecity are the stage ofNEFF. This festival,emerged from
the fusionof the AudiovisualFestival and VitoriasInternational
FilmFestival, immerses thecity in a great atmosphereof
international cinema.
AND ALSO
An enormous mixture of music, cinema, dance, theatre. TheBasque
Country simply oozes with culture thanks to a number
of high-ranking festivals. If international stars and
newdirectors come together at the San-Sebastin International
Film Festival, Bilbao is the meeting place for bel cantovoices
during its opera season and Vitoria-Gasteiz for thebest jazz
musicians, who also visit Getxo and Donostia-
San Sebastin. Its time to go off and have fun.
A COUNTRY OF CULTURE
Vitoria - Gasteiz
Donostia - SAN SEBASTIN
Other Basque towns and villages offer culturalexpressions worthy
of mention, including:
- ARAIA. FestivalInternacional de Teatro deHumor
(InternationalComedy Theatre Festival -August).
- DURANGO. BasqueBook and Record Fair atwhich most of the
years
Basque languageproduction is presented.(December).
- ERRENTERIA.Musikaste, classicalmusic week (May).
- GETXO. InternationalJazz Festival. This event
differs from other Basquefestivals due to itsEuropean
adjective(June).
- PORTUGALETE.International FolkloreFestival (July).
- TOLOSA.The InternationalChoral Competitionwith top level
participants(October).Festival Internacionalde
Marionetas(InternationalPuppet Festival -November).
Bilbao
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222222
ere, eating means much more than simplycovering a basic need.
Gastronomy forms animportant part of the everyday life of the
Basques, who discuss, negotiate and get to knoweach other better
over a meal. Excellent traditionalcookery, based on only the best
of ingredients, andthe innovating author cuisine now well
knownbeyond our borders, mean that the visitor can andmust choose
from a variety as wide as it isdelicious.
Donostia-San Sebastin has the highest numberof Michelin stars
per square metre in the planet,although the entire Basque Country
offers anyamount of opportunities to delight the palate,whether in
the big restaurants or in the moremodest establishments.
The Basque Country was already internationallyfamous for its
delicious traditional cuisine when agroup of new chefs decided to
take a number ofthese dishes and renew them on the basis of
theirimagination. This movement, which was soon tobecome known as
Basque nouvelle cuisine, wasmoulded in the mid-70s by a series of
young chefswhose point of reference was the French cookery ofthe
same name.
Participants in this said culinary revolution werelocal
restaurateurs including Subijana, Irizar,Fonbellida, Castillo,
Argiano or Juan Mari Arzak,undisputed number one of a style that
has caused
an upheaval in Basque restaurants, andparticularly in Gipuzkoa,
with new aromas,textures, combinations and methods
ofpreparation.This said, modern restaurateurs continueto base their
dishes on the two secrets oftraditional Basque cuisine: high
quality ingredientsand seasonal products.
Today, those young chefs are maestros ofrenowned prestige, whose
creativity falls under thetitle of so-called author cuisine.Despite
their high social standing, the toprestaurateurs still lead a
surprisingly practical life.Its not unusual to see any of these
figures ofworld-wide renown in the gastronomic field doingtheir own
shopping at the market, passing on someof their recipes in the
media or rubbing elbows atthe cookery schools with the new
generations ofrestaurateurs, with an end to ensuring thecontinuity
of this delicious new gastronomy.
A country of fish lovers
In addition to this said phenomenon of authorcuisine which
visitors will have to taste forthemselves, always of course keeping
in mind thatquality has its price is the ever-popular
Basquetraditional cuisine, which continues to employ theingredients
responsible for its fame, high qualityproducts from the surrounding
areas and simplebut delicious meals.
THE LOVE OF GOOD FOOD
HExtremely high-qualityproducts and the lovewith which they
areprepared are the basesof delicious Basquecuisine,
whethertraditional or nouvelle.
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23
MINIATURE PLEASURES.You dont have to sit at atable to eat well
in theBasque Country. Theritual known as txikiteo,i.e. going from
bar to barin groups and drinkingtxikitos (small glasses ofwine) or
zuritos (the sameof beer) is nowaccompanied by thepartaking of
temptinghors doeuvres, known aspintxos. Although some ofthese
delicacies aresimple, other much moresophisticated versionshave
earned the nameof miniature cuisine.Many bars proudlyexhibit their
owncreations andspecialities.Youll not be able toresist the
temptation.
STRANGE-LOOKINGDISHES.There are at least twolocal dishes that
neverfail to catch the eye ofthe outsider. One of theseis squid
cooked in its ink,hence the not very typicalblack sauce. But dont
beput off, youll love it. The
other one iselvers, babyeels thatlook a bit
like worms.Fried with a hot
pepper in anenamelled claydish, they areabsolutely
delicious. Itstraditional to eat them onthe evening before
SanSebastian Day, but theirscarcity and astronomicalprice is
obligingestablishments to usesurimi substitutes.
VERY SWEET.Although the cakes andpastries produced
inVitoria-Gasteiz are ofjustifiable fame, almostevery town and
village in
the Basque Country hasits own typicalsweetmeat. The
goxuas,vasquitos and neskitas ofVitoria-Gasteiz, thecustard-filled
hojaldres ofLaguardia, the pastelesde arroz and custard-filled
canutillos of Bilbao,the baracaldesitas ofBarakaldo, the kokotxasof
Markina, thepantxineta of Donostia-San Sebastin, theopillas given
bygodmothers from Irunand Hondarribia, thetejas and xaxus of
Tolosaand the rellenos ofBergara are all well worththe taste.
THE CIDER RITUAL.The habit of going tocider houses or
hangarswhere cider is made has
now become anunusualgastronomicalternative.
During
the season, from Januaryto May, these ciderhouses
areenthusiastically attendedby lively crowds whocome to drink the
ciderflowing from a tap in thebarrels or kupelas while
eating codomelette,T-bonesteak,walnuts,quincejelly
andcheese.Itsnormalin thetraditional
cider housesto dine standing up,thus making it easier towander
to and from thekupelas forreplenishment.
2323
Taking a stroll through the Basque harbours at meal times means
finding oneselfenveloped in the warm smell of grilled sardines or
txitxarro (mackerel). This blue fish,brought in by the coastal
fishermen, is barbecued outdoors, and served fresh andflavoursome,
with only a touch of hot oil, vinegar, garlic and hot pepper.
You mustnt miss the sardines which, though typical of Santurtzi,
are to be foundall along the coast, or the anchovies and bigger
fish such as the aforementionedmackerel or ventresca (underside) of
bonito.
THE FLAVOUR OF THE HARBOURS
ENJOY YOURMEAL, SIR.
THE LOVE OF GOOD FOOD
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24
The star of local cuisine is fish from either theBasque coast or
from the far-off fishing-groundswhich the local arrantzales or
Basque fishermenhave been working for centuries.Hake, bream, bonito
and cod, all prepared indifferent ways, are the main fish used in
localrecipes, which nevertheless also contemplate themore humble
species, such as sardines oranchovies, or others like turbot,
monkfish or sea-bass.
A number of basic, light sauces, such as thedelicate green or
pil-pil sauces, extract theessence of the fish without altering
either itstexture or its flavour. The Basques have alwaysknown how
to make the most of the productsoffered by the earth and the sea,
hence theincorporation to their cuisine of kokotxas - thesmall,
gelatinous, smooth flavoured barbel of hake,the cogote, or top half
of the fish, also of hake, orthe ventresca or underside of
bonito.
Squid, cooked in its traditional and highlyoriginal black ink or
sauted with onion andpeppers a lo Pelayo are classic dishes in
Basquerestaurants, as is the greatly appreciated spidercrab.
Meat is to be found most often in the recipes oflava-Araba, the
best known province for itsdelicious lamb dishes. In Gipuzkoa and
Bizkaia,most people prefer the T-bone steak, and evenmore so if it
happens to be ox. Barbecued, with a
crisp coating on either side and red and juicy onthe inside,
this is the star of rural cuisine.
Vegetables are particularly delicious in lava-Araba, where juicy
stews are made with a wholerange of greens. Other dishes of this
kind arevainas (green beans) or porrusalda (leek and potatosoup)
and pisto (fried vegetable hash).
Perhaps the most typical product of Basquemarket gardens are
kidney beans, particularly fromGernika-Lumo and Tolosa. Mushrooms,
highlyappreciated in the Basque Country, are likewisefound in a
number of delicious dishes.
Delicious wines
These succulent dishes have the perfectcomplement in equally
delicious wines. Despite itsrelatively small size, the produce of
the Rioja alavesais perfectly capable of competing with the best
winesin the world. Reds from this area are denominatedcrianza,
reserva or gran reserva depending on theamount of time they spend
in oak barrels.
Another local beverage is txakoli, a young, freshand fruity
white wine which has recently startedmaking a name for itself
outside of the BasqueCountry. But we mustnt forget the cider which
wecan taste at the cider houses themselves.Astigarraga, Hernani and
Usurbil, in Gipuzkoa, arethe villages with the highest number of
theseraucous establishments.
THE LOVE OF GOOD FOOD
The signature cuisinehas brought creativityand art to
dishpreparation and thereare outstandingrepresentatives of it inthe
Basque Country.
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THE LOVE OF GOOD FOOD
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RIOJA ALAVESA WINE. Asub-zone within theprestigious
Riojadenominacin de origenqualification, the winesproduced in the
Riojaalavesa region areappreciated all over theworld. Red wines
fromthis area are neverdisappointing, even whentalking in terms of
fruityyoung wines, and attainhigh standards of qualitywith time,
whether ascrianza, reserva or granreserva wines. Dont leavewithout
trying them. Butalthough the highestquantity and quality is tobe
found among the reds,made with a highpercentage of
tempranillograpes, the area alsoproduces highly palatablered and
ros wines.
Association of Rioja AlavesaWine Cellars- ABRAC/ Berberana,
501300 Laguardia (lava)Tel. 945 60 02 78 Fax. 945 62 10
[email protected]
TXAKOLI. Of medievalorigin, txakoli is a fresh,slightly
sparkling whitewine with a hint of acidity.Its personality comes
fromthe two local strains ofgrape, Hondarribi zuri andHondarribi
beltza.There are three differentdenominaciones de origenin the
Basque Country,Txakoli de Getaria, Txakolide Bizkaia and Txakoli
delava.
LAVAControl Board of theDesignation of Origin Txakolide lavaC/
Dionisio Aldama 7, 1DApdo. 36. 01470 AmurrioTel: 656 78 93 72 Fax:
945 39 37 [email protected]
BIZKAIAControl Board of theDesignation of OriginBizkaiako
Txakolina
B Garaiolza, 23. 48196 LezamaTel: 94 455 50
[email protected]
GIPUZKOAControl Board of theDesignation of OriginGetariako
TxakolinaParque Aldamar, 4. 20808 Getaria.Tel/Fax: 943 14 03
[email protected]
IDIAZABAL CHEESE.Strong with high acidity,Idiazabal cheese is
madeaccording to thecenturies-old recipe ofBasque shepherds.This
cured cheese,matured for a minimum oftwo months, is madeexclusively
with pure latxasheeps milk and animalrennet. There are bothsmoked
and unsmokedvarieties.
CRDOP Idiazabal cheeseGranja modelo de Arkaute, s/n01192 Arkaute
(lava)Tel. 945 28 99 71Fax. 945 12 13
[email protected]
Outstanding among theexcellent food to be foundon Basque markets
are aselection of meats andvegetables bearing theKalitatea label
ofquality.
For example, thePIMIENTOS DEGERNIKA, as flavoursomeas they are
refined. Thesepeppers are long, thin andgreen in colour. Hotter,but
not excessively so, arethe GUINDILLAS DEIBARRA. Green-yellow
incolour, these hot pepperscome in a mild vinegarand salt
mixture.
Dried vegetable loverscant leave without tryinga plate of
traditionalBasque ALUBIAS (red
kidney beans).Grown in smallmarket gardens,the best
varietiesarefrom Tolosa,Gernika-Lumo,and the pintaalavesa
strain.
Other everydayingredients
include localproducts ofguaranteed quality,
such as the traditionalPATATA DE ALAVA(potatoes from
lava-Araba), or the TOMATEDE CALIDAD DEL PAISVASCO
(Basquetomatoes).
The star of the butcherscounter is the CORDEROLECHAL DEL PAIS
VASCO(suckling lamb). Highlyappreciated, this meatcomes from the
local latxaand carranza breeds.Likewise covered by thislabel are
the CARNE DEVACUNO DE CALIDAD(beef) and the POLLO DECASERIO
(farmhousechicken) raised on corn inthe traditional style.
BONITO DEL NORTE(white tuna) is likewisefished and canned
bytraditional methods, as isCIMARRON (pink tuna).
LECHE PASTERIZADA DECALIDAD (pasteurisedmilk) can be
sweetenedwith another excellentproduct, MIEL DEL PAISVASCO.
Untreated andwith a high pollen purity,this honey maintains all
ofits properties.
Alubias from Tolosa, local suckling lamb with peppers from
Gernikaand Idiazabal cheese. All washed down, of course, with a
good Riojaalavesa wine. This menu includes only some of the
excellent localproduce of a land that so lovingly pampers the
ingredients of itsdelicious gastronomy. Lets take a look at the
100% local producebacked by the authorities responsible for
granting the denominacinde origen qualification or by the Basque
label of quality, Kalitatea.
LABEL OF QUALITYDesignation of Origin
TOP-CLASS FOOD AND DRINK
Idiazabalcheese
Txakoli Rioja alavesawine
DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN
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NATURE
ambling plains, mountain ranges, greenforests, rich marshes and
relaxing beaches.Nature lovers have plenty to discover in the
Basque Country.Although the wide range of beautiful and
ruggedlandscape is easily found in the nature reserves, itis also a
feature of many other parts of theprovince. Deep countryside is
only minutes fromthe towns and cities. Both active
tourismenthusiasts and those only coming along for theviews will be
in their element.
But its not all green. The Basque Country offersany amounts of
different landscapes sure todelight lovers of the open countryside:
steep cliffsand gentle beaches in the coastal cities; green
valleys set around little rivers; mountainousranges offering all
sorts of pleasant walks;
sweeping plains with a differentcolour and climate.
Despite its high populationdensity, almost 290inhabitants per
squarekilometre, and the heavy
industrialisation of certain areas,with their subsequent
environmental problems,the Basque Country has nevertheless managed
topreserve its natural resources. Proof of this are theseveral
nature reserves making it possible to enjoyflora and fauna in their
virtually pure state.
Humid and dry
The little over 7,200 km2 covered by the BasqueAutonomous
Community offers two main kinds oflandscape. On the one hand is the
wide, green,humid and mountainous coastal belt of Bizkaiaand
Gipuzkoa, and the mountains of lava-Araba.On the other, the
extensive, dry meridional plainsof southern lava-Araba as they head
towards thelandscape and climate of the succeeding Castilianmeseta.
The Alavese plain serves as an area oftransition between the two
extremes.
This difference is clearly reflected in the localhydrographic
attributes. The rivers flowing into theBay of Biscay (Mayor,
Ibaizabal-Nervin, Butrn,Oka, Lea, Artibai, Deba, Urola, Oria,
Urumea andBidasoa) are fairly short, steep and run along thebottom
of little valleys. On the other side of themountains, however, the
rivers of lava-Arababecome wider and meander a while before
theirwaters flow into the river Ebro in the Rioja
alavesaregion.
These two hydrographic areas are likewiseresponsible for
different climates. In the north,the weather is oceanic, with mild
temperatures inboth winter and summer and a fair amount ofrain. In
the south, however, the climate iscatalogued as being of the
continental kind, thatis, dryer but with more extreme
temperatures.
RThe river Leizarn andits banks, in Gipuzkoa,has been granted
thequalification of protectedbiotope. This is one ofthe many areas
offered bythe Basque Country tonature lovers.
26
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AN INLAND SEA.Although its no surpriseto discover that the
entirerange of water sports canbe practised in a countrysuch as
this, looking as itdoes out over the Bay ofBiscay, it is a bit
moreremarkable to discoverthat you can goswimming, sailing,
windsurfing and canoeingmiles from the coast. Thenorth of
lava-Araba ishome of the reservoirs onthe river Zadorra, realinland
seas on whichwater-sport enthusiastscan enjoy themselves tothe
full. Urrunagaartificial lake even hasan international
regattacourse.
SINK THAT BALL.Txema Olazabalshomeland offers golfers a
number of places inwhich to hit a ball roundthe course. The
clubs:Donostia-San Sebastin,Basozabal and Zarautz inGipuzkoa;
Neguri andLaukariz in Bizkaia; andZuia Larrabea and Izki
inlava-Araba, all offervisitors the chance of around.
OFF AT A TROT.Over thirtyriding
clubs and schools inviteyou to set out on a shorthorseback
outing in mostparts of the BasqueCountry, although thepeaceful
regions of lasEncartaciones in Bizkaiaand the western valleys
oflava-Araba areparticularly suitable forexcursions of this
kind.The smallest members ofthe family can have aride on a pottoka,
thegentle local breed ofhorse.
HIT THE SKIES. TheBasque winds are perfectfor those with a love
offlying, and in fact anumber of delta planeand paragliding
clubsand associations often
bring colour to thelocal skies.According tothe adepts, the
best places forthese activities are
Sopelana, on the coast,where you land on thebeach, and the
hillsidesof Talaimendi (Zarautz)and Ulia (Donostia-SanSebastin).
Inland wemustnt forget Ordua,the rocky walls of whichsaw the first
delta plane
flights in the country,and the foothillsof mount Ernio in
Gipuzkoa.
UP TO THE VERY TOP.The Basque Country is aplace of mountains
andexcursions, whether onfoot or atop a mountainbike, one of the
greatlocal pleasures. Followthe coloured indicationsand set off for
a shorthike along the nearbymountain trails. For thosepreferring
the heights,the highest summit in theBasque Country isAitxuri, on
the Aizkorrimassif. To reach its
1,551 metres above sealevel, standing astride theprovinces of
Gipuzkoaand lava-Araba, youllhave to cross thebeautiful open fields
ofUrbia. Other summits formountaineers are theGorbea massif
(1,481m), Aratz (1,441 m),Pea del Castillo (1,432m), Txindoki
(1,346 m)and Anboto (1,331 m).From the highest peakyou can plunge
down intothe depths thanks to thepotholing permitted in anumber of
caves andchasms.
27
NATURE
FOR THEEXTREMELYACTIVE
The untamed Bay of Biscay, with its particularlyhuge waves
towards late summer and throughoutautumn, makes the Basque Country
ideal for surfers. Itsa common sight to see groups of youngsters
dotted allover the local coastline waiting for the chance to get
awave.
But its the beaches of Mundaka (Bizkaia) andZarautz (Gipu
