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Solar Swing-Set (PV Playhouse)by bennelson on September 2, 2013

Table of Contents

Solar Swing-Set (PV Playhouse) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro:   Solar Swing-Set (PV Playhouse) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1:   Tools & Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 2:   Craigslist Playset - locate, buy, dissassemble, rebuild . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 3:   PV panel - size, power, purchase, bring home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Step 4:   Mount panel to roof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Step 5:   Run wiring and conduit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Step 6:   Inside Wiring, Disconnect, & Charge Controller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Step 7:   Charging an EV from the Sun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Step 8:   Budget and conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Step 9:   OTHER - Crossbracing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

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Author:bennelson    300MPG.orgOrdinary guy with no special skills, just trying to change the world one backyard invention at a time. See more at: http://300mpg.org/ On Twitter -@300MPGBen and at Ecoprojecteer.net

Intro:  Solar Swing-Set (PV Playhouse)

This project is a Solar-Powered Swing-Set. No, the solar does not make the swing run. Rather, this project re-uses a child's playset as a ground-mount to support a solarpanel.

For some time, I've been playing with solar, and wanted to get more solar power in my life. (See Solar-Powered PowerWheels as an example project.) I already built myown electric car and electric motorcycle and would love to charge those from solar, instead of from the grid.

However, I actually have rather poor solar access at my house. My narrow lot-line runs north and south, as does my home's roof. I have a detached garage, but it'sbehind a huge evergreen tree most of the day. The only reasonable place for a solar panel is behind the house and next to the garage, but it would have to be at least sixfeet up in the air to maximize solar access.

While my yard has many trees, it has very few that are any good to hang a swing from. I hung up my bucket-swing on the one branch that I had, but it was far from ideal.A children's playset, complete with a place for swings and a slide would be ideal, but that would also go best EXACTLY WHERE I WOULD WANT TO MOUNT MYSOLAR PANEL.

So, an idea was born. Combine a backyard fort and swingset with renewable energy to create a Solar Swing-Set and Photovoltaic Playhouse!

Lets take a look at tools, materials, and budget, and then dive in to building the SOLAR SWING-SET!

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Image Notes1. Climbing wall2. 405 watt solar panel3. Trapeze Bar

Image Notes1. Display shows charging at 4 amps, or about 200 watts. Amp rate naturally slowsas the battery fills up.2. Quick release cable to the electric motorcycle battery pack.

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Image Notes1. All the cool kids have solar panels.2. This photo was taken before the project was complete. In the final version,these cables were wrapped up out of the way and run to the right.

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Step 1: Tools & MaterialsThis project is a combination of salvage, carpentry, and electrical work. As such, we'll need the appropriate tools and materials, such as:

Tools:Impact WrenchWrenchesVice-GripsRegular and Phillips screwdriversPower ScrewdriverMalletMarkerPencilDigital Still CameraVolt-MeterCaulk GunShovel & Steel RakeDrill & 3/4" wood drill bitSpeed-squareCircular SawStep Ladder(s) - 6' and or 8'6' Spirit LevelAngle-grinder with cut-off discEye protectionHearing protectionWork gloves

Materials:A Re-Purposed Playset48V 405 watt Photovoltaic Solar Panel6' MC-4 cable25' 12 awg electrical wire, in red, black, and green.Plastic outdoor electric junction box3 x 10' x 3/4" outdoor rated plastic electric conduit1/2" x 10' metal conduit3/4" conduit elbows, 2 x 90 degrees, 2 x 45 degrees3/4" plastic pulling elbowMetal electrical junction box1/2" thread-in conduit to box adaptersPVC Primer and PVC Cement2" and 2.5" deck screws3/4" and 1/2" conduit hangers

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CaulkAluminum C-Channel (3 pieces, 48 inches long)1/4-20 stainless nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers (6 sets)

You will also need an assistant to help take apart the playset, transport it, reassemble it, and to mount the photovoltaic panel to the roof.

Image Notes1. A speed square is good for marking boards, especially angles for rafters.

Image Notes1. A fish tape is essential for pulling wiring through conduit.

Image Notes1. Heat Shrink and a cable splicing block to make an electrical connection

Image Notes1. This project will use a number of 5/16th" nuts, bolts, and washers.

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Image Notes1. A tubing cutter works great on PVC conduit.

Step 2: Craigslist Playset - locate, buy, dissassemble, rebuildWhile I could have built my own combination playset/solar-panel-mount, a brief look at just the cost of materials told me that I would be better off buying a used playsetand modifying it.

To do this, it is neccessary to:

Locate a Playset (Craigslist, Classified Ads, Rummage Sales, etc.)Purchase itDisassemble itTransport itReassemble it

Locating the PlaysetI started regularly viewing through Craigslist for used swing-sets, playsets, and other keywords that might yield good results.

I was specifically looking for a swing-set with a clubhouse with a cloth roof. Typically, the cloth is in very poor condition, but the frame would make good mounting pointsfor a solar panel.

After a few days of looking, I found a playset listed for $200. (I recently did some trading and got a good welding gas tank for free that I sold on Craigslist for $150. Thiswas the foundation of the budget for the playset.) The price seemed acceptable, and I was able to contact the seller and arrange a time to pick it up. I also asked whatsize hardware the playset used so that I could bring the correct tools.

I got an assistant (my Father), and hitched up a cargo trailer to my pickup truck so that we could get the entire playset in one trip. (It was located about an hour's driveaway, and I didn't want to go back.)

DisassemblyWe began disassembly, starting from the top, and working our way down. That allowed for easier removal of tall parts (such as the roof) and minimized how much we hadto use ladders. The structure is primarily held together with long bolts going into T-nuts, along with a few lag bolts. An impact wrench works great for removing both. Onthe few T-nuts that were rusted and spinning with the bolt, vice-grips can be used to hold the nut in place while the assistant removes the bolt. We brought along anempty plastic coffee can to hold all of the removed hardware.

Before removing too many bolts, I took digital still photos of each section. This makes it MUCH easier to reassemble. Once apart, many components all look the same. Byhaving some photos of the finished playset, putting it back together is much simpler.

It was starting to get dark and the mosquitos were coming out by the time we had the structure taken apart. Disassembly took longer than expected. If you are doing asimilar project, make sure to allow plenty of time and be early enough in the day that bugs and darkness aren't an issue.

TransportTo get the playset back to my house, we strapped all the large components to the utility trailer, and lashed them down with long ratchet-straps. Both roofs, the slide, andlong timbers all fit on the trailer. Smaller parts went in the bed of the truck, and were solidly strapped down. It was a Sunday evening, so there was light traffic on theroads. Whenever dealing with transporting large, awkward, unusual items, it's best to avoid rush-hour and busy roads. We rechecked that the tie-downs were still tightafter just a few miles of travel, and again at a gas station later.

ReassemblyThe next day, I began the process of reassembly. Because this is a solar project, location is important.I first laid out all the components in my yard to see what I had to work with, and then moved the ground-level components to roughly the final location.

Ideally, a play-set should be built on perfectly level ground. Unfortunately, where it would go does have some slope, so I would have to use blocking under the posts tomake sure the entire structure is level. I used a few concrete bricks and scrap pressure treated wood as blocking to level. I placed my 6' level vertically on the main poststo check for plumb.

The structure was reassembled, one piece at a time, from the ground up, in a similar matter to how it was taken apart. There were just a few nuts and bolts that wereeither missing, rusted, or otherwise unusable. A quick trip to the hardware store made for easy replacement.

Even while looking at the digital still photos, there were still a few components that were a bit puzzling. For example, two of the main upright posts were slightly shorterfrom the others, something which was NOT obvious while looking at the play-set originally. Looking at screw and bolt holes in various components is a good clue to helpfigure out what parts go where.

The most difficult task was raising roof sections into position and bolting them in place.

With the complete structure together, I bolted on the slide, the rock-climbing wall, and hung up one swing. I hung up the bucket-swing next to it, so that the swing-setincluded both a toddler swing and a "big girl" swing.

Next, I need to mount the solar panel to the roof.

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Image Notes1. The playset as we first found it.

Image Notes1. My assistant. I kidnapped my father to lend me a hand taking this apart.2. You DID remember to bring a ladder, right?

Image Notes1. Just removed the climbing wall.2. We took still photos of the steps as we took apart the structure. This helps usremember how to put it back together.

Image Notes1. We had to remove all these slats to separate the upper and lower decks.

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Image Notes1. This was an unusual point in how the boards went together. I took a still imageof it to help me remember how it goes back together.

Image Notes1. Set of wrenches2. We brought an impact wrench and several sizes of sockets3. Bring a coffee can or other good container to put all the fasteners in.

Image Notes1. Guard rail removed2. Oddly, the structure has cross-bracing in the one dimension and NOT theother.3. We brought along a good assortment of hand tools, wrenches, pliers, cordlessdrill, and impact wrench.

Image Notes1. Lower deck removed.

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Image Notes1. Getting the last of the parts out required some digging.

Image Notes1. Back of the pickup was loaded with some of the smaller parts.2. Back of the pickup was loaded with some of the smaller parts.3. The trailer got the larger parts, the roofs, the slide, and long planks.4. Anytime you have a load on a trailer, it's good to stop after a while anddouble-check all your straps.

Image Notes1. I laid out all the parts in the yard to get organized to start assembly.

Image Notes1. I organized the fasteners by type and size. Although they look rusty, don'tthrow away old fasteners, sometimes they might be a hard to find size or costmore than you think.

Image Notes1. Initial reassembly of the structure.

2. Unfortunately, the ground isn't level where I wanted to put this, so I had touse scrap materials as shims to level all the corners.

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Image Notes1. That ladder sure is handy!

Image Notes1. The main structure, mostly reassembled.2. Still missing the roof.

Image Notes1. Climbing wall in place.

Image Notes1. Not even all together yet, and the little girl already wanted to go down theslide.2. GE Electrak electric lawn mower. Yes, I mow my lawn with electricity.

Image Notes1. Some of the hand-holds on the climbing wall were upside-down. I loosened

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them with an allen wrench, flipped them, and tightened them back down.

Image Notes1. Other Instructables you might recognize - Solar Power Wheels and ScrapMetal Patio Table.2. Both roofs in place.

Image Notes1. The basic play-set now reassembled.

Step 3: PV panel - size, power, purchase, bring homeI originally started this project after having a chance to try out a solar panel at a renewable energy fair . I was going to be showing off my electric motorcycle, and Icontacted a local photovoltaic manufacturer to see if I could borrow a panel to charge from while at the three-day outdoor event. I got the OK, and was really pleased athow well it all worked!

Photovoltaic panels are typically measured in nominal voltage and in their output wattage. 12, 24, & 48V are common panel voltages. A popular size of panel right nowtends to be around 200 watts or so. The panel I chose is a 48V nominal 405 watt panel from Helios Solar Works, which is based in and MANUFACTURES in Milwaukee,Wisconsin, which is only about 30 miles from my house.

I purchased the panel as a "B-Stock", which means it doesn't have a box, and it maybe possibly has a small scratch on the aluminum frame. For all I know, it was theexact same one I borrowed at the energy fair. I called up Heios, ordered the panel, then drove there in my small pickup. I was able to get a brief tour of the plant while Iwas there. Pretty neat to see renewable energy products being manufactured in my neck of the woods!

The panel cost me $364. Money well spent. You can see the specs of the panel on the manufacturer's web page, at:http://www.heliossolarworks.com/Portals/132436/Sales/9t6.pdf

I brought the panel home and experimented with it a bit. Because I got the panel BEFORE I got the children's playset, I built a very basic A-frame stand for the panel,simply to point it at the sun. Once I was satisfied with the location and that the panel would work right for solar vehicle charging, I moved it out of the way, and then beganmy hunt for the play-set.

Placement for solar is important. You want to make sure it is somewhere that the sun will shine on it nearly the entire day, and is NOT shaded by trees, other structures,or obstacles. I've been watching this particular spot in my yard for several years, so I know where the shadows fall through the seasons. However, you might want to useone of the many solar siting tools available to make sure you position your panel correctly. (Here's a popular one. )

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Image Notes1. It's a pretty big panel. I'm six feet tall, and the panel is taller than I am.2. 405 watt solar panel, manufactured locally

Image Notes1. A robot arm at the Helios plant places strings of PV cells onto glass.

Image Notes1. PV cells being manufactured into a panel.

Image Notes1. This machine solders one cell to the next.

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Image Notes1. Specs on the panel, for those who are interested in the details.

Image Notes1. Solar panel was "B-Stock" so it didn't come with a box or other packaging.That's OK by me. Nothing to have to throw away as garbage. I just made surethe panel was supported properly and protected for the trip home.

Image Notes1. Solar panel is temporarily set up on an extremely simple A-frame ground-mount.2. MC-4 extension cable

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Image Notes1. Salvaged aluminum c-channel was first used as a temporary support as partof an A-frame for testing, and then later used as part of the permanent roof-mount.2. That's a rocket-grill. http://www.instructables.com/id/Rocket-Grill/

Image Notes1. This cable is cut in half to make a short quick disconnect between the PVpanel and the junction box.

Image Notes1. Solar Powered PowerWheels.http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Powered-POWER-WHEELS/2. Test solar-charging my 1970's, 48V retro "Citicar". These were made inSebring Florida and were the most mass-produced electric car in the UnitedStates all the way up to the introduction of the Nissan Leaf. More of these carswere made than the Tesla Roadster.

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Image Notes1. Make sure the solar panel has a good clear view of the southern sky.Position the panel away from trees and structures that can shade the panel.2. Unfortunately, this tree blocks some of the light in the morning.3. These trees are too low to block the solar panel.4. To create a very simple solar site path, point your camera south and take aphoto of the sky.

Step 4: Mount panel to roofTo mount the panel to the roof, I first needed to attach framing materials to the PV panel, which would in turn be attached to the roof of the playhouse.

On the back of the PV panel are a number of holes, spaced out for use as attachment points. I decided on connecting three pieces of extruded aluminum c-channel to theback of the panel. The spacing was simply one on the center, and the other two on each end.

I used an angle grinder with a cut-off disc in it to cut each of the pieces of c-channel to the width of the PV panel plus about an inch and a half. That allows for enoughextra room on the bottom edge of the c-channel to drill a hole and run a lag bolt through it.

I lined up the c-channel on the frame of the PV panel, and marked the existing frame holes. I then drilled 1/4" holes in the channel, and attached them with 1/4"-20 bolts,washers, lock washer and nut.

Because the two roofs of the play-set are off-set from each other, I needed to add an appropriate spacer. The difference in height was 4.25". I took a 2x6 and ripped it tothat width, and then cut it to length to match the aluminum c-channel. I then attached it to the end c-channel and the PV panel.

Next, I had an assistant help me lift the panel onto the roof. (Thanks Wayne!) We had to ladders handy and lifted and walked the panel up the ladders. This was actuallyMORE difficult to get the panel onto the roof of the play-set than it would have been to work on the full-size roof of a garage or house. Because the panel takes up nearlythe entire area of the roof, nobody can stand on it to help set the panel in place. Instead, everything had to be done by ladder.

The panel was lined-up so that the center support was directly over the end rafter of the upper roof. With it in position, I ran a lag bolt through the hole in the c-channel,through the roof, and into that rafter. The panel was then leveled (parallel to the bottom edge of the roof) and I ran the lag bolt for the bottom left corner. At that point, thepanel was no longer in danger of slipping and sliding off the roof.

On the right-hand side of the panel, I ran deck screws from inside the clubhouse, up into the 2x6 rip attached to the panel.

To support the TOP of the panel, I used the cut-offs from the c-channel, by screwing them down to the far side of the roof. Because they didn't line up with any rafters, Idecided to add some to the structure.

First, I ripped 2x4s to 2x3 to match the dimensions of the existing rafters. Next, I measured the length of the existing rafters, and checked the angles on the end. That is a45 degree cut, or what roofers call a 12/12 roof. After cutting the rafters, I installed them under the attachment points on the back of the roof, and screwed them in place. Ithen re-ran the screws on the cut-off on the back roof back down into the new rafters.

Behind the panel, I cross-drilled through the cut-offs and into the c-channels on the PV. I then installed 4.5" cross bolts with washers, lock-washers, and nuts.

The panel is now solidly attached to the roof with three points at the bottom and three points at the top.

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Image Notes1. Held in first by a lag bolt in the middle. This keeps the panel from falling offthe roof, but still allows rotating it to make sure it is square.

Image Notes1. This piece was an easy way to connect the ripped 2x6 to the panel framesupport.

Image Notes1. View from behind after the panel was lifted into position, but before it wasattached on the top.

Image Notes1. I would need to somehow attach this wood to the roof. That was done withdeck screws from below and with an aluminum c-channel on the back roof.

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Image Notes1. The center support of the PV panel sits directly on top of the end rafter of thehigher roof section.2. The center support of the PV panel sits directly on top of the end rafter of thehigher roof section.

Image Notes1. I used the c-channel cut-offs as supports on the back roof. Each one had ahole drilled in the end for a bolt that would connect it to the panel supports.

Image Notes1. Cross-bolt connects panel to the c-channel on the back roof.2. This is attached to the roof with deck screws through to the rafter below.

Image Notes1. Solar panel mounted on the roof.

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Image Notes1. 2x4's ripped to 2x3's to match existing rafters.

Image Notes1. A speed square makes marking odd angles easy. Because this is a 12/12roof, I simply have to cut a 45 degree angle on both ends.

Step 5: Run wiring and conduitWiring needs to be protected from the elements, wild-life, and small children.The easiest way to do this is to enclose it in conduit.

I chose to use 3/4" PVC electrical conduit. The conduit is affordable, easy to work with, and rated for outdoor use, including prolonged exposure to sun, wind, and rain.It's available from any home improvement store. PVC conduit can be cut with nearly any type of saw, but I found that a plumbing tubing cutter works well, doesn't requireany power, and makes a nice clean cut.

Besides the conduit itself, I also needed a square junction box, several right angle and 45 degree elbows, a pulling box to go into the building, and PVC primer andcement.

I mounted the square box to the east peak of the roof. It's convenient enough to get at there (via a ladder), yet is inaccessible to anyone using the playset. I mounted itwith stainless steel wood screws, with one of the ports facing down and to the right. The opposite port will allow entry of the solar cable.

I test fit individual sections of conduit, measuring, then cutting, then dry-fitting elbows and other connectors until I had the right number of parts in the correct order tomake the run from the box to the garage. I dug a trench from the play-set to the garage, and drilled a 3/4" hole in the side of the garage with a spade bit.

I glued the conduit using PVC primer and cement, simply following the directions on the cans. I put up the conduit onto the structure, with one end going into the box andthe peak, and the rest following to the garage. I attached the conduit to the wood with 3/4" conduit hangers and a single deck screw.

With the conduit in place, I could now run the wiring.The wiring was roughly 30 feet of salvaged 12 gauge solid copper well pump wire. I got this as recycled material from a plumber friend, which mean that it was "free", butI still needed to make sure it was good cable and check it for continuity. Besides the red and black wires, also ran a green wire for the ground (earth) and a heavy string,which could be used to pull anything else in the future through the conduit.

I ran a fish tape backwards through the conduit, lubricated the wires, and them pulled them through. This step is easy to describe, but took a bit of work. The combinedwires were actually a fairly tight fit through the conduit. Once the wires were through, I wired up the connections at the junction box at the peak of the roof.

The solar panel has two cables coming off of it; a male and a female MC-4 connection. I purchased a short MC-4 cable for the specific purpose of cutting it in half to makea quick release between the solar panel and junction box. In the box, I ran the cut ends of the MC-4 cable in, stripped the ends and tightened them into two splicingblocks. I then stripped the ends of the red and black wires, slid shrink wrap over them, and connected them to the splicing blocks, making sure that I had my polaritycorrect. (Red is Positive, Black is Negative) I then used a heat gut to shrink the wrap onto the connections, electrically insulating them.

I pulled the green wire up to the frame of the PV panel, where it was connected with a screw. With the roof-top wiring done, I filled the top port to the junction box withcaulk, and installed the box cover with its gasket and screws.

The MC-4 connection from the panel to the junction box will only be plugged in AFTER I finished everything else in the system. Remember, if it's sunny and the solarpanel is plugged in, it's LIVE and creating voltage. Don't plug it in until you are ready.

Back on the ground, I caulked the pulling box going into the garage and filled the trench back in with dirt.

Image Notes1. Final installation of the conduit. It's weather-proof and follows the shape of theplayhouse.

Image Notes1. Empty box, ready to be installed at the peak of the roof.

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Image Notes1. Wires pulled through the box, through the conduit, and into the garage.

Image Notes1. In place of wire nuts, I used heavy-duty electrical splicing blocks, coveredwith color-coded heat-shrink.

Image Notes1. Both red ( Positive ) wires spliced together, ready to be covered with heat-shrink.

Image Notes1. Connections spliced and shrink-wrapped.

Image Notes1. Connections fit inside the box.

Image Notes1. Top port was weather-proofed by filling it with caulk.

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Image Notes1. Pulling box is caulked to the wall of the garage. Once the wires were through,the weather-proof cover was reinstalled.

Image Notes1. Conduit attached to the structure with 3/4" conduit hanger and a deck screw.

Image Notes1. General measuring and checking to see how long parts should be, where tocut them, and make them fit well to the structure.

Image Notes1. With the trench dug, the cut pieces of conduit are dry fit and checked forlength.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Swing-Set-PV-Playhouse/

Image Notes1. Digging the trench. I dug in a straight line from the corner of the playset to thehole and box I added to the garage.

Step 6: Inside Wiring, Disconnect, & Charge ControllerInside the detached garage, I would need to run conduit, mount my disconnect box and charge controller, and make my wiring connections.

From the outside of the building, the wiring passes through into the back of a standard metal electrical box. From there, I used 1/2" metal conduit, to match what wasalready inside the garage. (I also happened to have plenty of 1/2" components on hand, saving me cost and a trip to the hardware store.)

Next, I mounted the disconnect box and charge controller to each other with a stock electrical connector designed for just such a task, and screwed both down onto apiece of wood. Then, the entire piece was raised against the wall, positioned for the conduit to easily reach it, and attached with four large wood screws.

I ran the conduit into the bottom of the disconnect box. The disconnect serves two purposes. It is a master ON/OFF switch for the solar panel AND it contains a fuse toadd over-current protection to the system. The black wire is tightened down under a screw that simply passes through power, but the red wire gets tightened under ascrew that only connects the power to the fuse when the switch is on.

Next, I cut two short pieces of 12 gauge wire to run from the disconnect to the charge controller. Again, it's a simple matter of stripping a wire and tightening the ends of itdown under a -set-screw. The connections of the charge controller are well marked, and the installation manual makes it clear which terminals to use.

After that, I attached an Anderson connector to the bottom of the charge controller. The two wires from the connector go to the terminals marked for the battery in thecharge controller. I ran two skinny wood screws through the Anderson connector to mechanically mount it to the wood.

I already had a special cable made up with an Anderson connector on both ends. This is my battery cable that will reach either the 48V electric motorcycle , or my retro1970's electric car. Both are wired up with a matching Anderson connector to the battery pack. This allows me to connect either vehicle to the charging system.

I simply plug in one end of the cable to the charge controller, and the other to the vehicle.

It's also nice to be able to see the voltage of the battery pack and the amperage of the charging from the solar panel. Because there is a meter available for sale for theXantex C-40 charge controller, I simply purchased one. I replaces the existing face-plate on the controller and is as easy to install as plugging in a phone cord. With it inplace, I can see voltage, amperage, and a running total of amp-hours.

Image Notes1. If you like my clean transportation projects, please check them out on my blogat 300MPG.org

Image Notes1. Fuse adds over-current protection to the system.2. Red wire is positive from solar panel.3. Black wire is negative from solar panel. Really just acts as a pass-throughhere.4. The disconnect switch cuts off power on the positive leg.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Swing-Set-PV-Playhouse/

5. To battery pack Positive connection.6. To battery pack -Negative-7. From Solar Panel Positive8. Fancy little electrical connector here connects the two boxes.9. Screws mount the metal box to the wood behind it.10. One of four enclosure mounting screws.11. -Negative- wire from solar panel12. Power in from solar panel

13. Battery cable Anderson quick disconnect.

Image Notes1. Charger adjustments for bulk and float voltages.2. This charger can run 12, 24, or 48V systems, just by changing this jumper.3. This connector is for the digital display faceplate.4. The faceplate screws into four screw holes around the edge of the box.

Image Notes1. Digital display faceplate is plugged in.2. This is the backside of the ammeter/voltmeter display.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Swing-Set-PV-Playhouse/

Image Notes1. Direct charging port mounted on electric motorcycle

Image Notes1. Motorcycle plugged into solar charger.

Image Notes1. Charging at 7 amps2. This green LED is blinking right now, indicating that the electric motorcycle ischarging. I just happened to snap this photo while the light was off instead of on.

Image Notes1. All this is simply mounted on the wall of my garage, within easy reach ofwhere I park my bike.

Image Notes1. Power in from the outside.

Image Notes1. Wiring goes into a standard metal box.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Swing-Set-PV-Playhouse/

Image Notes1. I used plain 1/2" metal conduit to go from the box on the bottom of the wall, upto the disconnect box.

Image Notes1. Extreme close-up of the Anderson connector screwed to the board.

Image Notes1. Smart face-plate shows Amps, Volts, running Amp-Hours, etc.2. Easy to install. Just plug in this connector, put the plate back on, and put infour screws.

Step 7: Charging an EV from the SunWith the solar panel in place mounted on the roof, the wiring and conduit complete, and the disconnect and solar charge controller all in place, we just have to turn it allon.

I plugged in the cable between the charge controller and electric motorcycle. Up on the roof, I connected the solar panel to the pigtail going to the junction box. Then, inthe garage, I simply flip the disconnect from OFF to ON.

The C-40 controller displays the battery pack voltage and the current flowing from the panel to recharge the battery. In bright sunlight, and a mostly discharged battery,the current should be relatively high. (The most the panel can put out is 8 amps at 48V.) As the batteries charge, the voltage will rise and the current will drop.

The motorcycle has a 55AH/48V battery pack. In theory, if it was 100% discharged (which you never want to do to a battery!) it would take 6.875 hours to recharge at 8amps, the maximum output of the solar panel. In reality, the battery pack is never run more than half-way down, but it also typically charges slower than 8 amps. Availablesunlight also varies depending on weather and time of year. (Although there is MUCH more sunlight in the summer, which is when I use the motorcycle the most.)

In a nut-shell, I can get up to 30 miles of range on my motorcycle in a day's sunlight. Should it be bad weather, I can always use a traditional charger, plugged into gridpower.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Swing-Set-PV-Playhouse/

Image Notes1. DC charging quick connection on the electric motorcycle.

Image Notes1. Motorcycle charging at 7 amps, directly from the sun.

Step 8: Budget and conclusionCost Breakdown of Materials and Components:

Used Craigslist play structure - $200. I had a large welding gas tank that I got for free just before doing this project. I sold that tank on Craigslist for $150. Thatgave me a rough budget. When I found the structure I wanted to buy, it was only $50 out of pocket.Helios 9T6 series solar panel (as B-stock) $364MC-4 Cable - $13Disconnect Box - sunk cost, already owned, originally bought on clearance at hardware storeC-40 Solar Charge Controller - sunk cost, already owned, but originally a little over $100C-40 Ammeter/Voltmeter Display Faceplate - $85 (That was my "splurge" for the project!)Wiring - 12 awg Red, Black, and Green wires, about 30 feet - "free", salvaged materialConduit, hangers, junction box, pulling box, deck screws,assorted electrical connectors, bolts, and lag bolts - about $50 and several trips to the store.2x4s for rafters, aluminum c-channel for the panel mount, and some other assorted materials were all scrap or salvaged items which were already paid for by"sweat equity". If you are doing a similar project from scratch, you will have to account for costs of these materials.

Total out-of-pocket costs for this project were $562. For that cost, I got:

A cool club house for my little girl to play (permanent upgrade to the cardboard clubhouse)2 swings (and a real place to hang the bucket-swing)A slideA trapeze barMonkey barsI neat place for me to readRock Climbing WallTree Frog HabitatTransportation Energy Independence405 watts of renewable energyA way to recharge my "Poor-Man's Smart Grid"Satisfaction that I'm doing something right

So how about you? Are you interested in solar energy and would love a great starter project? If you are concerned that solar is too expensive or complicated, don't worry,it doesn't have to be. There are great resources and publications like HOME POWER and the MREA !

Pick up a book, access the internet, take a night-school class, and when you are ready, build your own Solar Swing-Set, Photovoltaic Play-Set, or Renewable EnergyClub-House!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Swing-Set-PV-Playhouse/

Step 9: OTHER - CrossbracingBesides simply reassembling the play-set and installing the solar panel, I also found that the original design of the structure was missing something - good cross-bracing!

There were a couple of short pieces of cross-bracing in the one dimension, but NONE in the other. Even after the entire project was together, it was still a little shaky. So,I decided to add some additional cross bracing.

To do so, I would measure and cut some 3/4" metal conduit, flatten the ends, drill holes, paint it, and then mount the conduit to the structure.

To start with, I measured from near the base to close to the ladder, noted the measurement, and cut conduit to that length. Again, a regular tubing cutter worked wellmake a clean cut on the pipe.

I then flattened both ends of the tubing. I first measured how much of each end would need to be flat (where it would be directly against the structure.) I then hammeredthe tube on my anvil with a 3 lb. sledge. (To see the Instructable on how I made the Anvil Stand, click the link. )

Next, I drilled holes through both of the flattened ends. I drilled over the hardy-hole in the anvil, so the drill-bit could just pass through after it was all the way through theconduit.

I then hung up the two conduit pieces and painted them with green Rustoleum brand hammer-finish paint. It's what I had on-hand and matched the original conduit fairlyclose.

Finally, I mounted the cross-bracing to the structure using a lag bolt at the bottom onto the 4x4 post, and a carriage bolt into the thinner wood at the top.

With the cross-bracing in place, the structure felt much more solid, and is now ready for children to jump, swing, and slide on it!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Swing-Set-PV-Playhouse/

Image Notes1. This tubing cutter works well for cutting even 3/4" metal conduit.

Image Notes1. 3/4" metal conduit is affordable and strong enough for some simple cross-bracing.

Image Notes1. An anvil is handy for pounding out the conduit.

Image Notes1. Drilling the bolt hole in the end of the conduit. This is over a hole in the anvilfor the drill bit to pass through.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Swing-Set-PV-Playhouse/

Image Notes1. I hung both these pieces where the swings would go while I was spraypainting them.

Image Notes1. Conduit was attached at the top with a carriage bolt, so that the bolt headwould sink into the wood.

Image Notes1. Inside view of the top; carriage bolt with washer, lock-washer, and nut.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Swing-Set-PV-Playhouse/

Image Notes1. At the bottom, the conduit was attached with a lag bolt.

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Comments

13 comments Add Comment

 wikkit says:  Sep 10, 2013. 1:52 PM  REPLYIt's an interesting project, the sort of thing I find interesting to do, and a well written Instructable. But let's be totally honest about the cost.

Let's assume that the playhouse was worth $200, which is reasonable, and leave it out of the budget. You then spent $362 on the project. Electricity inWisconsin is charged at $0.12061 per kilowatt hour, so that money could have bought almost exactly 3000 kilowatt hours of energy.

A half battery charge is 1.32 kilowatt hours. So for the project to break even you would need to charge the motorcycle 2,273 times. That's riding it every nightof every summer for 25 years.

This is why people don't usually do standalone, single appliance solar power. The duty cycle almost never matches up, and even with the losses ofconverting it to AC, being able to use all of the power that the solar cells are putting out is the only way for it to approach cost effectiveness.

You will be known as "that awesome guy always running around on an electric motorcycle" after the zombie apocalypse, though. :-)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Swing-Set-PV-Playhouse/

 AmyLuthien says:  Sep 14, 2013. 5:21 PM  REPLYI wish I had this solar swing set right now, the cost aside! We're experiencing some epic bad weather where I live at the moment, and power lines areeither being swept away by floods or turned off in case they get swept away. So far we still have our electricity, but if they turn it off here, the three sumppumps I've got running constantly will no longer be able to run and keep the flood waters out of my basement. Repair and clean up from that sort of amess would be way more expensive than what has been shelled out for such a project as this.

There are always other considerations to take into account than just daily cost and investment return. ;)

 RogueOne says:  Sep 11, 2013. 6:42 AM  REPLYComparing cost of electricity from solar to grid power misses half the point. You do NOT pay the full cost of electricity on your electric bill. If your gridpower comes from a coal burning power plant where is the cost of the pollution that plant created on your electric bill? What are the human andenvironmental costs of mountain top removal in WV for coal? What about the neurotoxin mercury that coal plants emit and cause brain damage to theunborn and children?

 bennelson says:  Sep 10, 2013. 6:43 PM  REPLYWikkit is absolutely right. If this was ONLY about financials, I wouldn't do it.However, it's also about learning, having fun, sourcing energy in alternative ways, and helping reduce energy I would otherwise need to get from the grid.

On the other hand, you could also figure in that I don't need to purchase a backup generator!

 maewert says:  Sep 10, 2013. 2:39 PM  REPLYVery nice instructable! I'm thinking about similar but maybe add a small wind turbine to power a remotely-operated telescope/observatory where no power isavailable.

BTW, did I miss what you are doing with the energy when you are riding the bike? Maybe add a second battery so that you can power other homeappliances when the power goes out ;-)

Best Wishes.

 bennelson says:  Sep 10, 2013. 6:48 PM  REPLYYou are thinking ahead! The next step will be to add a grid-tie inverter to make use of the solar energy when an electric vehicle is either fully charged, orNOT attached.The C-40 charge controller features a "Dump-Load" mode which switches the output of the solar panel to another device when the batteries are full. Inthis case, it will be the grid-tie inverter.That way, when the batteries are full, the grid-tie inverter will activate and help reduce the amount of energy that my house uses from the grid.

 Rob311 says:  Sep 10, 2013. 6:30 PM  REPLYVery nice, and extremely well documented. I would suggest that you anchor that playhouse down, particularly with the conduit run into the house (andelectronic panels). The majority of the "math" done to permit solar arrays on houses is to make sure the wind won't get under the panels and pickup the roof.

 mooster says:  Sep 10, 2013. 3:48 PM  REPLYWouldn't this present a serious hazard to the kids? Check this: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/uk.d-i-y/tt0GD6BICAc

 billbillt says:  Sep 10, 2013. 1:17 PM  REPLYlove this!

 thecapper says:  Sep 10, 2013. 12:16 PM  REPLYThis is a really well-documented Instructable. Nice to see that people have the "energy" to do a big project and manage all the photos and video along theway. Kudos!

 acuchetto says:  Sep 10, 2013. 7:26 AM  REPLYI agree about capturing the energy of the swing, too. I'll look into it!

 sdrawkcabisbackwardsbackwards says:  Sep 8, 2013. 11:36 PM  REPLYIt would be cool if the movement of the swing generated extra power.

 Tazmjm69 says:  Sep 7, 2013. 11:58 PM  REPLYVery detailed and informative! A lot of work, but worth it in the end.