The fïrst sock book ever to teach knitting with two circular noodles

learn in minutes

knit socks faster and more gracefully 300 fewer "intersections per average pair of socks

more control over intricate designs translate traditional patterns

tricks for durability 11 designs from simple to sophisticated

basic pattern to Jft man, woman, or child a better fitting felted boot

introducing Cat's Turned Toe© -the smoothest toe on the planet

many original tips and techniques

Techniques work for gloves, neck bands, cuffs and hats author is a schoolteacher,

and has taught this method to children

ISBN 0-9708869-5-0 9 0 0 0 0

ISBN 0-9708869-5-0

Socks S o a r on Two Circular Needles

A manual of elegant knitting techniques and patterns

Cat Bordi

Passing Paws Press

Photography and Cover Design: Anne Sheridan Photography and Fine Art, Friday Harbor, WA

Basic Layout: Cat Bordi Prepress Work: By Design, Friday Harbor, WA Printed by Bang Printing, Brainerd, MN

First Printing, May, 2001. Second Printing, July, 2001, including minor revisions Third Printing, September, 2001, including minor revisions Fourth Printing, April, 2002, including minor revisions Fifth Printing, November 2002, Including minor revisions

Text and graphics copyright 2 0 0 1 , Catherine Bordi

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright holder.

Passing Paws Press Post Office Box 2 4 6 3 Friday Harbor, WA 9 8 2 5 0 cat @rockisland. com

Library of Congress Data : Bordi, Cat.

Socks S o a r on Two Circular Needles: a manual of elegant techniques and patterns/by Cat Bordi. 4 8 pages I S B N 0 - 9 7 0 8 8 6 9 - 5 - 0 1. Knitting - Patterns 2 . Knitting - Techniques 3 . Knitting -Socks .

Table oî Contents

Knitting with Two Circular Needles Is this book for you? 2

Falling in love 2

Kni t t ing with two circulars: get t ing s tar ted 3

Casting on and joining 3

Around and around 3

Translat ing a tradit ional pat tern to the two circular method 6

Patterns S i m p l e S o c k in T h r e e S i z e s (easy) 7

Indoor Felted B o o t s (easy) 1 0

Fleetfoot (easy) 1 2

G a r d e n e r s S o c k (easy) 1 5

Night-Blooming J a s m i n e ( intermediate) 1 8

Columbine P e a k ( intermediate) 2 0

Two Aler t Cats ( in termediate) 2 2

Cable-Top: with the Turned T o e © ( intermediate) 2 5

Alpine Meadow ( intermediate) 2 7

Bavar ian Twisted S t i t c h ( in termediate) 3 1

Lea f and Tendril: with the Turned T o e © (advanced) 3 5

Appendix Spec i a l T ips and Techniques: the How, Why, and W h e r e f o r e 4 0

S o u r c e s for Yarns , Needles, and O t h e r Goodies 4 2

My Favorite Kni t t ing Technique Re fe rences 4 2

Treasured Tradit ional S o c k Col lect ions 4 3

Interes ted in additional pa t te rns and techniques? 4 3

About the author 4 3

Abbreviations and Explana t ions 4 4

It takes a village to write a book

My beloved daughter Jenny has always been an inspiration to me. In her infancy, her feet were so tiny they slid down the bathroom sink's sudsy drain, and now she leaps hurdles and dashes around a track wearing the Fleetfoot socks you'll find in

this book. A culinary artist, she is also an artist of life itself, faithfully and thoughtfully weaving the unique and profound tapestry of her individual nature. It's an honor to be present in her life. From the very start of this book's journey, Jenny's insistence that it become a "real book" encouraged me to leap the hurdles along the way. Thank you.

This book might not exist were it not for my kind mother, who somehow gathered and regathered the patience to lovingly and methodically teach a very stubborn and determined child to knit and sew. From the memorable day she taught me, a six year old, to tie a knot in the end of sewing thread as I sat on the white rocking horse in our temporary home in Merzhausen, Germany, to the help she still offers me in thinking about textile design and function, I thank her for persevering for all those years, in so many ways.

Anne Sheridan is a dear friend whose artist's eye and heart gracefully captured images of my socks on film, and who created a cover that makes me feel like I'm breathing fresh spring air every time I look at it. Ingrid and Hans Skacel ' s interest, support, and good advice helped me more wisely navigate the uncharted seas of putting this book together. The members of my textile guild continually inspire me and their suggestions and insights have been invaluable. Candy Hoeschen and Judy Brandt were especially helpful. The Thursday afternoons of knitting and wise friendship with my teaching colleague, Kim Norton, nourished the book's growth spurts and both of us. Eckhart Toiles gentle presence kindled stillness in me, which has allowed this book to emerge in peace.

I thank all those knitters of centuries past, who figured out how to pull loops through loops and hold them on sticks. More recent knitters, especially Barbara Walker, Joyce Williams, Meg Swansen, and Elizabeth Zimmerman, have inspired me to open my eyes and think and dream of new ways of pulling loops through loops on sticks into a sock shape. A special thank you to Meg and her bright spirit for responding to my phone call by generously sharing her enthusiasm and "everything she knows" about doing a book.

And last but certainly not least, I cherish and admire my many middle school knitting students for their inventiveness and vital interest in an age-old art. Three students, Emily Bayuk-Johnson, Caitlin Ness, and Kati English, stand out for their creativity, ability to learn almost anything, perseverance in diving into new territory, and the many new knitters they have taught themselves.

Kmlttùng a sock, with two circula needles: one needle works while the other rests

Knitting with Two Circular Needles

Is this book for you?

I hope so. If you can knit and purl, you can use this book to knit socks faster and more gracefully, using the magic of two circular needles. You'll find four patterns easy enough for a beginner, six for intermediate knitters, and one for the advanced knitter. The socks appear in relative order of difficulty.

I assume you have basic knitting skills, and own at least one good knitting reference book (see appendix for recommendations) to look up the details of certain techniques beyond the scope of this book, like invisible cast-on, grafting instruc­tions, and I-cord.

S o , if you love learning new skills, delight in knitting architecture, love to knit socks, or just have cold feet, I welcome you to the world that lies within these pages.

Falling in love

I've written this book because I fell in love all over again with knitting socks, this time on two circular needles. When I say circular needles, I'm not referring to the old kind that you soaked in boiling water in hopes that the cable would unspring itself. As you probably know, the warm bath never quite defeated the cable's urge to coil, and knitting became an isometric exercise. You'll burn fewer calories knitting with the best newer circular needles, whose pliant, slinky cables are already tame.

Knitting socks on two sleek circulars is like taking an express train, while knitting socks on the traditional four or five double-pointeds is more like taking a milk-run train that stops at every little village along the way. While knitting a pair of socks on two circulars, you will pause for about three hundred fewer intersections than when using a traditional, double-pointed needle method. I would gladly use double-pointed needles for a historical knitting experience, but not otherwise.

In addition to efficiency and speed, there are many other advantages to using two circulars. You can try on the sock at any time because the cables wrap themselves right around your foot. This makes it much easier to know if your gauge is indeed correct, and you can tell when it's time to start the toe. If durability is a high priority, you can easily use a smaller diameter needle for a tighter-knit sole. You'll never misplace a needle or have one clatter to the floor and roll out of reach under the sofa. Large designs can be kept on one needle, making them easier to follow. In fact, you can keep up to two thirds of the stitches on one needle. You'll easily snug up the stitches at the two needle intersections because you are pushing your working needle against a thin, pliant cable. The needles nestle gracefully with your sock and yarn for traveling, taking up less length than double-pointeds. And, if you have two 2 4 " circulars in the same size, you'll be able to use them for everything from socks, to gloves, to large sweaters and shawls.

I did not wake up in the middle of the night with a sudden realization of how to knit this way. Instead, I spent months puzzling over how to use two circulars to knit a tube, following blind instinct, seemingly making no progress. It seemed obvious that it must work, but how? Having knit many socks on double-pointed needles, I thought the process would follow the same steps. I kept trying to work from one needle to the other, tying myself in spiraling knots that I had to back out of. I don't recall precisely how I muddled my way to "Eureka!", but within days of solving the mystery, Joyce Williams' excellent article on knitting with two circulars appeared in the summer 2 0 0 0 issue of Knitters' Magazine.

I immediately thought of the hundredth monkey story, where a discovery by one monkey on an isolated island is simultaneously repeated by other monkeys on another ninety-nine isolated islands. I suspect there are at least another ninety-eight of you out there wondering why everyone doesn't already know about this method. Well, I wonder too, and want everyone to know all about it.

2

Knitting with two circulars: getting started

Using two circular needles to knit a tube is simple. Place half your stitches on one circular needle, half on the other, join (see below) and knit each set of stitches with the needle holding those stitches. About the only mistake you can make is to use one needle to knit from the other needle, which you must not do, because the secret is this:

One circular needle works while the other rests

You will be happiest knitting socks with a needle length from 16" to 2 4 " . I personally prefer 2 4 " needles because the tips of the unused set hang down out of my way. Shor ter or longer needles work, but not as comfortably. I urge you to invest in top quality circular needles with silken smooth tips, a pliant, non-coiling cable, and a smooth join. I've tried a number of the circular needles currently available, and find Addi Turbo needles superior to the rest. Their cables are slinky yet strong, and the tips are available in either bamboo or nickel-plated brass (also gold, which I have not tried). Bamboo offers you a little traction when using a particularly slippery yarn, while nickel allows you to speed-knit. Beware of the cheapest circular needles; they are pretty much the same as those I bought twenty years ago and are more closely related to bedsprings with points than functional knitting needles. If you already have older circular needles, you may want to use them to initially try out the two-circular method, but I hope you won't. The stiffer, coiling cables and annoyingly catchy joins undermine this method. I would still be happily using sets of double-pointed needles for socks, and not have written this book, were it not for the quantum leap in circular needle technology.

Casting on and joining

The top of a sock must be elastic yet snug. I prefer a long-tail cast-on, and cast on loosely to one of the circular needles.

Recount the stitches to be sure you have the

correct number for your pattern, and then slide half of the stitches to the other circular needle. Hold the two needles parallel and push the stitches up near the tips. Lay the tips holding the stitches in the palm of your non-dominant hand, and flatten out the stitches so they aren't twisted. The loops should face out from the needles while the cast-on knots form a long, narrow U between the needles.

To achieve a smooth join at the top of your sock, you will switch and interlock the two top stitches. Pick up the dangling end of either needle and use it to transfer the top stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Then pass the transferred stitch over the top stitch on the right needle, pull out that stitch and move it to the left needle. You're set for your first round of two-circular-needle knitting!

You'll find my recommended gauge is slightly tighter than what the yarn label suggests. This is to increase sock longevity. Before you start a pair of socks, make sure you have the size needle that gives you the correct gauge. In the appendix you'll find a clever method for checking the gauge of three needle sizes at the same time.

Around and around You have half the stitches on each needle, and

the top is joined and interlocked by the stitches you switched. The working yarn rises from the middle of that switch.

Take the needle on your right, and pull it so that its stitches lie in the middle of the cable, with the tips hanging down. This needle will rest while the other needle does its work.

Letting the resting needle dangle, pick up one end of the working needle in each hand. S ta r t knitting and when you get to the end of those stitches, stop. Pull the needle you just worked with so its stitches lie in the middle of its cable, and let that needle dangle while you pick up the needle which just had a short nap. The yarn is right where you need it, at the beginning of the stitches. With one end in each hand, knit those stitches and stop.

Repeat this over and over again . . . and soon you will have socks. Actually, there's a little more to a sock than just going around and around. I suggest you begin with the Simple Sock pattern, and then move on to the more challenging designs in this book.

3

Stitches have been cast on and divided between thetworteedies. Notice that the^ Ueflat

with the Loops to the outside.

Thetop stitch.froynthei^nôexiLehasbeen \ transferred to the right needle, to make agoodjoin.

The top stitch from the rightneedie has been pulled through the transferred stitch and moved to the leftneedle, to complete thejoin.

This sock is bcma knit in profile. The leg, heelfLzp, cmsfcncel turn core done. The

heeljlap stitches have been picked up and afew rounds of decreases

have been worked.

This is the Leaf and Tendril sock being knit Jace-jront, which is the opposite of profile.

This is the same Leaf and Tendril sock being knitface-front, showrifroni the back

(lyfow see the heel sticking out).

,5

Translating a traditional pattern

Do you have already have a collection of favorite sock patterns? They're all written in the traditional method, right? Not a problem! You're about to become bilingual.

Traditional sock patterns use three or four needles to hold stitches and a fourth or fifth to knit from those stitch-holding needles. As you already know, with two circulars, each needle turns around and knits from its other end, not unlike my golden retriever, Persimmon, who loves to catch her tail between her teeth and revolve around and around to impress company.

Now let's stop and think a minute, even if you have never knit a sock the traditional four-or-five needle way. Wouldn't it make sense, if you had three or four needles to hold stitches, to place the decreases and increases at the needle ends so they could be easily identified? Yes, it would. And that is exactly why traditional patterns read, "k to last 3 st, k 2tog," etc. Using our two-circular method, you will sometimes need to arrange stitches on the needles so you can decrease or increase at the ends, and at other times a marker will signal you to increase or decrease in the middle of the needle.

Let 's start at the top of a traditional sock, and work our way down. Traditional patterns usually tell you to put one third of the stitches on each needle (or one quarter if using five needles). Please put half the needles on each circular needle, join, and work your way down the leg.

Now you're at the heel flap. Traditional patterns will tell you to rearrange the stitches so that half are on one needle and the other half divided between the other two needles. You, with your two circulars, have nothing to rearrange, for each needle already has half the stitches. Your biggest challenge is to choose which one deserves to become a heel flap, and eventually the sole.

Now it's time to turn the heel, and both traditional and circular methods work rows on one needle to do this; no difference here.

Once the heel is turned, you will start the gusset. In traditional patterns the first needle holds half the stitches from the turned heel, plus the picked up stitches from one side of the heel flap. The second needle holds the instep (top of foot) stitches, and the third needle holds the picked up stitches from the second side of the heel flap plus the second half of the turned heel

stitches. The traditional pattern will read something like this: "On first double point needle, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k l ; k across second dpn; on third dpn, k 1, ssk, k to end." Notice that the decreases are placed within the last three stitches of each needle, a nifty advantage for traditionalists indeed.

We locate our decreases easily as follows: to set yourself up for the gusset you will put half the heel-turn stitches on one needle, pick up the required number of heel flap stitches, and continue on until you have collected half of the instep stitches. As you can guess, you will collect the same stitches in reverse order on the other needle, giving you a sock-in-profile about to be gusseted. Since you don't have your decreases lined up for you at the end of the needle, you may choose to place a marker on each needle to remind you to decrease. Or you may be like me, and feel you're perfectly capable of seeing where to decrease without a marker.

Time to zoom down the foot. Those traditional people have rearranged their stitches on three or four needles again, since they cannot work with just two like you and I. You need not rearrange a thing. In fact, you're carefree until it's toe-grafting time.

At the toe, traditionalists make their decreases near the ends of the needles, rather like they do when working the gusset. You, on the other hand, are making your toe decreases in the middle of each needle, and can watch the shape narrowing symmetrically since it is not bisected between needles. You may want to place a marker, or not. You're in charge.

Time to graft the stitches. You'd better rearrange them so the sock is no longer in profile (each needle is holding half the stitches, and the sock lies sideways), but face-front (one needle holds the instep stitches, and the other needle holds the sole stitches), which I admit the traditionalists did not have to do, but don't they deserve a break after all that extra needle-fiddling? Graft those stitches together, after reading the appendix where I give you a sweet little technique for avoiding donkey-ears, and a Lucy Neatby trick for people suffering from graftophobia (fear of grafting stitches).

Voilà! You are now bilingual forevermore.

6

Start here: Simple Sock

in Three Sizes If you ve never knit socks before, I hope you 11

start with this simple sock, given in three sizes, and designed to make you successful right away. The leg ribbing continues down the instep to the toe, for an excellent fit. You could spend the rest of your life knitting just this simple sock pattern, varying it by choosing different ribbing designs or other textured patterns, colors, and interesting yarns. I think of a sock as the ideal small canvas for knitting creativity - a small investment of yarn and time and a tantalizing shape on which to place designs. At the end of the pattern, alternate instructions are given for using a smaller needle for the sole, which will make the sock more durable.

Y a r n : (2, 3 , 3 ) 5 0 gram, 1 5 0 meter balls of Libero Sportgarn, 8 0 % wool, 2 0 % nylon, in color 1 8 0 , or color of your choice. G a u g e : 2 8 sts = 4 " N e e d l e s : Two 2 4 " circular needles to give you

the correct gauge (most likely size 2 or 3 ) . S i z e : Child's medium, women's medium, and men's medium.

L e g : Cast on ( 4 4 , 6 0 , 72) sts, join by switching the two end sts, and work k2, p2 ribbing on larger needles for (4 1 /2 , 6, 6 1 /2) inches.

H e e l F l a p : You will work the heel flap back and forth on the (22 , 3 0 , 3 6 ) stitches on one needle, while the other needle and its stitches wait. To make the ribbing flow symmetrically down the instep on the child's and women's socks, begin the heel flap on the needle that starts and ends with k2 , not p2. For the men's sock, shift one stitch from each needle to the other so each needle begins and ends with a single knit stitch; you may then use either needle for the heel flap. Row 1: S I 1 as if to purl, *(kl , si 1 as if to knit), repeat from *, end k l . Row2: S I 1 as if to purl, p(20, 2 8 , 3 4 ) , k l . Row 3: Repeat rows 1 and 2 each ( 1 0 , 14 , 17) more times. End with a completed purl row.

T u r n i n g H e e l : Row 1: K ( 1 3 , 17, 2 0 ) sts, k2tog, k l , turn. Row2: S I 1, p5, ssp, p i , turn. Row 3: S I 1, k6 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 4: S I 1, p7, ssp, p l , turn. Row 5: S I 1, k8 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 6: S I 1, p9, ssp, p l , turn. Row 7: S I 1, k lO, k2tog, k l , turn. (See below for child's final 2 rows) Row 8: S I 1, pl 1, ssp, p l , turn. Row 9: S I 1, k l 2 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 10: S I 1, p l 3 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 11: S I 1, k l 4 , k2tog, k l , turn. (See below for women's final 2 rows) Row 12: S I 1, p l 5 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 13: S I 1, k l 6 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 14: S I 1, pl 7, ssp, p l , turn. (See below for men's final 3 rows) Final 2 rows of child's heel-turning: Row 8: S I 1, pl 1, ssp, pl, turn. Row 9: K 1 4 Final 2 rows of women's heel-turning:

Row 12: S I 1, p l 5 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 13: K 1 8 . Fina.1 3 rows of men's heel-turning:

Row 15: S I 1, k l 8 , k2tog, turn. Row 16: S I 1, p l 8 , ssp, turn. Row 17: S I 1, k ! 9

7

Picking up Gusset Stitches: With the same needle, knit up ( 1 1 , 15 , 18) sts in the loops along the heel flap. In the intersection of the heel flap and instep, pick up a stitch. On the next round you will knit it through the back loop (a twisted stitch), to keep a hole from appearing here later. Place a marker.

Look at the other end of your needle, where the ( 1 4 , 18 , 2 0 ) heel turn stitches are patiently waiting. Transfer the distant (7, 9 , 10) to the other needle.

K across half of the instep sts, maintaining the ribbing pattern (for child's and women's sock: *p2, k2 , repeat from *, end p2; for men's sock: k l , p2, *k2, p2, repeat from *, end k l ) . This ribbing continues until the toe. You now have ( 3 0 , 4 0 , 4 7 ) sts on this needle.

With the other needle, knit across the second half of the instep stitches, maintaining the ribbing pattern, place a marker, and pick up a st in the intersection of the instep and heel flap. Knit up ( 1 1 , 15 , 18) sts in the loops along the heel flap, then k the (7, 9 , 10) heel turn sts. You should have ( 3 0 , 4 0 , 4 7 ) sts on each needle.

K o n e round: k (7, 9 , 10) , k ( 10 , 14 , 1 7) through back loops, k2tog, (marker is here), k (22 , 3 0 , 3 6 ) instep sts, maintaining the ribbing pattern (marker is here), ssk, k (10 , 14 , 17) through back loops, k (7, 9 , 10 ) .

Gusset: Round 1: k ( 15 , 2 1 , 2 5 ) , k2tog, k 1, (marker is here), continue instep ribbing for (22 , 3 0 , 3 6 ) sts, (marker is here), k l , ssk, k ( 15 , 2 1 , 2 5 ) . Round 2, and all even numbered rounds: K across both needles, maintaining the ribbing pattern on instep sts. Round 3: k ( 1 4 , 2 0 , 2 4 ) , k2tog, k 1, (marker is he re ) , instep ribbing for ( 2 2 , 3 0 , 3 6 ) sts , (marker is here) , k l , ssk, k ( 1 4 , 2 0 , 2 4 ) . Round 5 and all odd-numbered rounds: keep decreasing as in rounds 1 & 3 , knitting 1 fewer sts before the k2tog and after the ssk. Maintain the ribbing pattern on instep sts. When you have a total of (22 , 3 0 , 3 6 ) sts left on each needle, you have completed the decreases and it is time to just knit your way down the foot until begin­ning the toe decreases. Yes, you will maintain the ribbing pattern on the instep.

Foot: Knit along as instructed above until you are two inches short of the end of the lucky foot.

How to tell? Try the sock on! The flexible cables allow you to try on your sock at any point, and I hope you have been delighting your foot with frequent try-ons all along. If you are knitting for someone who is not there, figure out how much shorter or longer than your foot their foot is. Try the sock on and add or subtract the difference between your foot and theirs. You try the sock on rather than measuring it flat because the sock may stretch in circumference on your foot, which shortens the length a bit.

Toe: You will knit all sts now, and decrease every other round. Round 1: K (8 , 12 , 15) k2tog, k2 , ssk, k (8, 12, 15) on each needle. Round 2 and all even numbered rounds: k all sts. Round 3: K (7, 1 1 , 14) k2tog, k2 , ssk, k (7, 11 , 14) on each needle. Round 5 and all odd-numbered rounds: Continue knitting one st fewer before and after decreases. Stop when you have a total of (8 , 10 , 12) sts left on each needle. K one round. K (4, 5, 6 ) sts more, and rearrange the sts so that the sock lies face-front on the needles rather than in profile.

Grafting the Toe: Slip the sts closest to the needle ends over their adjacent neighbors. This will prevent little peaks ("donkey ears") at the corners of your grafting. If you're not sure how to graft, check one of the knitting books in the appendix. If you're still nervous, try Lucy Neatby's trick: using a waste yarn of a different color but similar weight, knit about an inch on the to-be-grafted sts. Then pull the knitted waste yarn inside the sock, and graft the sts following the path of the waste yarn. Pull out the waste yarn when you're done, and weave in ends. One more sock, and you're ready to wear them!

Knitting the sole of the sock with a smaller needle for increased durability: If you plan to try this, I applaud you. It's only a

bit harder than the basic pattern, and you'll be rewarded with a sock that will last longer than it would otherwise. How much longer I cannot tell you. The tricky part is the gusset, which is a little awkward until you're about halfway through. Other than that, it's a piece of cake. You'll also need to buy an extra, smaller diameter needle, but if you're like me, you'd gladly buy another circular needle instead of going out for lunch.

8

You'll need an additional 2 4 " circular needle one to two sizes smaller. You don't need to determine the gauge this needle gives you. In fact, although it will give you a tighter gauge, it mysteriously won't make the sole of your sock too short or too narrow.

Leg: Using larger needles, follow regular direc­tions.

Heel and Turning Heel: Use smaller needle and follow regular directions.

Picking up Heel Stitches: With the smaller needle, pick up (1 1, 15 , 18) sts in the loops along heel flap. In the corner where the heel flap meets the instep stitches, pick up a stitch and knit it through the back loop. This will keep a hole from appearing here later.

With the larger needle, k across the instep sts, maintaining the ribbing (check previous instruc­tions for differences in men's, women's, and children's). With the smaller needle, pick up a st in the corner and k it through the back loop. Knit up (1 1, 15 , 18) sts in the loops along the heel flap, then k up to the last 2 sts on this needle. K2tog. (You just eliminated the corner st.) On the larger needle, work ribbing across (22 , 3 0 , 3 6 ) sts. On smaller needle, ssk (you just elimi­nated the other corner st). K to end of sts on this needle.

Gusset: Round I: On the larger needle, work ribbing across (22 , 3 0 , 3 6 ) sts. On smaller needle, k to within last 3 sts. K2tog, k l . Round 2: On the larger needle, work ribbing across (22 , 3 0 , 3 6 ) sts. On smaller needle, k l , ssk, k to end. Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until you have (22 , 3 0 , 3 6 ) sts left on the smaller needle.

Make yourself a peanut butter and jelly sandwich for lunch (they're cheap, and

you're investing in needles, right?) and continue on with the regular toe directions to the very end.

You must be a genius! You've learned how to knit socks with two circulars, how to prevent donkey ears when grafting, Lucy Neatby's graft­ing-made-easier trick, how to make a smooth join when knitting in the round, how to knit a more durable sole, that you can try on socks as you knit to make them fit just right, and how to rearrange your finances so you can buy more circular needles.

Don't throw away your double-pointed knitting needles. They have many uses. A set of four will make two pair of learner's knitting needles. Just wrap rubber bands around the ends so the yarn doesn't fall off. Two sets of five make five pair of learner's knitting needles. I know; I am teaching hordes of middle school children to knit, and nothing scares them. Double-pointed needles are ideal for knitting I-cord (and so is one circular -just whip it around instead of sliding it back, like you would with a double-pointed). And of course, you can knit socks with them, just like in centu­ries past.

Oh, and you can use double-pointed needles for chopsticks, or . . . you can use chopsticks for knitting. My middle school students taught me that.

Foot: Continue knitting the sole with the smaller needle and the instep with the larger needle, until you are two inches short of the end of the foot (try it on).

Toe: Knit all stitches. Trade the smaller needle for the second larger one if you like, which will give you an even toe. Or, if you are a purist, trade the larger needle for a second smaller one (if you have twice not gone out to lunch, you can do this), and knit a truly durable and even toe!

9

Felted Indoor Boots To knit these lovelies, you 11 use oversize yarn

and needles to create an oversize pair of socks, then felt them to fit in a hot washing machine. The giant socks turn into thick, cozy boots. If you want to try out both felting and two circular sock knitting in one fell swoop, this is the pattern for you. Felting hides all but major errors, so you need not worry about a thing.

Almost every sock pattern you run into, unless it's a knee sock, uses the same number of stitches for the leg and the foot. This works just fine in an unfelted sock, because the leg stretches so your heel fits through. But felt the sock, and not only does it shrink, it also loses most of its elasticity. This felted boot, which is basically a sock pattern, solves this problem by using 40 stitches for the leg and just 34 for the foot. The leg will fit very well, though, because a garter stitch cuff rolls over and snugs it up.

The boots pictured have a chain stitch necklace embroidered on before felting; you too can do this if you have a second color of this yarn. You soon will, because knitting these boots is almost instant gratification, and everyone you know will beg for a pair. Adjust circumference by felting them for a shorter or longer time. To adjust length, add a bit less than an inch and a half for every extra inch you want after felting.

Yarn: About 2 2 0 yards of bulky 1 0 0 % wool (some mohair is okay), not machine washable (it won't felt). Lopi Icelandic works well. If you want to make the "necklace", you 11 need a small amount of yarn in a contrasting color. Gauge: 3 sts = 1 " Needles: Two size 1 0 . 5 or 11 circular needles in any length from 2 4 " on up. Size: woman's size 7 1 / 2 - 8 1/2 shoe

Leg: Cast on 4 0 sts, join by switching the two end stitches, and knit one round. Rounds 2 , 4 , and 6: Purl Rounds 3 , 5, and thereafter: Knit. Continue knitting until the leg is 5" long (or longer, if you have extra yarn and want to feel extra cozy.)

Heel Flap: Now let 2 0 sts sleep on their needle while the other needle knits rows back and forth to make a square heel flap in garter stitch, 2 0 sts wide and 2 0 rows deep. Just knit every row, until you have 10 purl ridges or 2 0 rows, ending with a completed wrong side row. The other needle continues sleeping while you . . .

Turn the Heel: (still garter stitch) Row 1: k l 2 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 2 : s l l , k5 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 3 : s l l , k6 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 4 : s l l , k7, k2tog, k l , turn. Row 5: s l l , k8 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 6: s l l , k9 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 7: s l l , k lO, k2tog, turn. Row 8: s l l , k 10 , k2tog, turn.

Pick up Gusset Stitches: Knit across the 12 heel stitches, and then proceed to slide the needle tip through each bloomp and knit a stitch through it. Don't worry one bit about what I mean by bloomp. You won't find it in Webster's. I made it up. I am referring to the end of the purl ridge where it peters out at the edge of the heel flap. Just decide which little bumpy thing you want to use as a bloomp and slide your needle tip right on through as if you own the place, knit a stitch, and go on to the next one. You are going to knit up one st at each bloomp, for a total of 10 picked-up stitches.

Have you knit up 10 stitches? Good. You should find yourself at the intersection of the heel flap and the sleeping needle, which needs to wake

10

up now. Knit right across the first 10 sts on the sleeping needle, breaking our basic command­ment, "Thou shalt not knit from one circular needle unto another. " Oh, well. No one's watch­ing. You should now have 12 turned heel stitches plus 10 knit up bloomp stitches plus 10 sleeping needle sts on the busy needle, for a total of 3 2 sts. Let the busy needle dangle and catch its breath while the awakening needle (recently known as the sleeping needle, also identifiable as instep needle) knits the remaining 10 instep sts.

Stop! You are about to fall off a cliff! You are once again at a heel flap intersection, and have you guessed? You will be knitting up 10 more bloomps just like before, and I do hope that you are enjoying yourself. S o - knit up those 10 bloomps, then knit across 6 of the turned heel stitches on the other needle, once again breaking our basic commandment, but still, no one is watching. By the way, you ought to have 2 6 sts on each needle. Knit one more round, and then,

Work the Gusset: Round 1: k l 4 sts, k2 tog, k 2 0 , ssk, k l 4 . Round 2 and all even rounds: k all sts. Round 3: k l 3 sts, k2tog, k 2 0 , ssk, k l 3 . Round 5: k l 2 sts, k2tog, k 2 0 , ssk, k l 2 . Round 7: k l 1 sts, k2tog, k 2 0 , ssk, k l 1. Round 9: k lO sts, k2tog, k 2 0 , ssk, k lO. Round 11 : k9 sts, k2tog, k 2 0 , ssk, k9 . Round 13: k8 sts, k2tog, k 2 0 , ssk, k8 . Round 15: k7 sts, k2tog, k 2 0 , ssk, k7 . Round 17: k 6 sts, k2tog, k 2 0 , ssk, k6 . Round 19 and onward: You have a total of 3 4 sts, right? If not, k2tog or ssk in the same place(s) until you do. Should you have fewer than 3 4 , don't worry, this is the make-mistakes-and-no-one-will-know-sock. Felting heals all.

Foot: Now knit, and knit, and knit - until the foot is 10 1 /2" long for a size 7 1/2 foot, or 11 1/2" long for size 8 1/2 foot. Then it's time for:

Round 10 : k 10 sts. Cut yarn 1 5 " from toe, and thread through tapestry needle. Slide needle through the 10 sts and pull tight. Weave yarn blissfully through the toe to secure it, and snip the loose end. Your sock is done! Knit the other one, and then,

Ask yourself: Would you like to duplicate embroider the boot before felting? Do so now. Or, a crochet hook (which I used) works beautifully if you want to run a chain stitch in and out of the fabric, and you can go in any direction you like. Try swirls. Go wild! Whatever design you create will look even better after felting, when it softens and blends into the other color.

Time for the washing machine! You need H O T water and nice slippery detergent, 5 to 2 5 minutes of agitation (alone or with something non-fuzzy, like blue jeans), then a cold hand (not machine) rinse. Check the fit; you'll probably need to repeat the process, checking more often if you like, perhaps alternating 5 minutes of hot soapy agitation with cold rinses. If you are a nervous type, now is not the time to mellow out. Once I decided to have a second cup of tea while my boots were felting and when I returned they had shrunk to fit Thumbelina. Well, not that much, but you get the idea. S o stay nervous, be paranoid, and check those socks as often as you like. Beware of how much they can tighten up when going from a hot bath to a cold one. Try them on wet, and once you are satisfied with the fit, rinse them gently but well, machine-spin or towel-press the excess water out of them, and arrange them in a nice upright foot shape, as if you were in them, to finish drying. They will look like a work of art waiting for your feet to take up residence. If you like, now is a safe time to make a cup of tea and gaze happily at the boots for an hour or so.

The Toe: If you have to rearrange stitches (more on one needle than the other) to manage this gracefully, do so: Round 1: (k5, k2 tog) 4 times; k6 . Rounds 2 and all even rounds: knit. Round 3 : (k4, k2 tog) 5 times. Round 5: (k3, k2 tog) 5 times. Round 7: (k2, k2 tog) 5 times. Round 9 : ( k l , k2 tog) 5 times.

11

Fleetfoot / designed this sock for my daughter Jenny, who

has been fleet of foot all her life, and is a track athlete. I worked the sock in purple, and the winged shoe in gold, her high school's colors. It's an easy sock to knit, just a stockinette foot and a lxl rib leg, with a stockinette space where the winged foot is duplicate stitched later. You can easily alter the pattern to incorporate any small design you like. Simply chart a stockinette space that holds your design, or knit the sock without any design at all. Note: The photo shows a short-row heel and toe, but I have rewritten the pattern to use a standard heel and toe for greater dura­bility.

Yarn: Two 50g , 2 3 1 yd balls Trekking Color, 7 5 % wool, 2 5 % nylon, in color 6 4 , and one 5 gram, 2 2 meter card of Manuela Gold Stickgarn, 7 9 % rayon, 1 1 % lurex, 1 0 % polyamide. Gauge: 3 0 sts = 4 " Needles: Two 2 4 " circular needles to give you the correct gauge (most likely size 1 or 2 ) . Size: Women's medium

Leg: Cast on 6 0 sts and work k l . p l ribbing on larger needles for 2" . Begin the chart on one needle now, working in stockinette where indi­cated. You are knitting in profile (side to side, not front to back). Be sure to work the right chart for the right leg, and the left chart for the left leg, on opposite sides of the leg, so you will have a matching pair when done! When you complete the chart, resume k l , pl ribbing until the leg is 8" in length.

Heel Flap: Rearrange the stitches so that your sock is face-front: K 15 sts into one needle and then shift the second 15 sts to the other needle, which now has 4 5 sts. Shift the last 15 sts from that needle to the first needle, so they each have 3 0 sts. You will work the heel flap back and forth on the 3 0 stitches on the needle which would be in the back of your foot if the winged foot is on the right (or left) side, depending on which foot you are working on right now. Row 1: S I 1 as if to purl, *(kl , si 1 as if to knit), repeat from *, end, k l . Row 2: S I 1 as if to purl, purl to 1 st from end, k l . Row 3: Repeat rows 1 and 2 each 14 more times.

Turning Heel: Row 1: K 17 sts, k2tog, k l , turn. Row 2: S I 1, p5, ssp, p l , turn. Row 3: S I 1, k6 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 4: S I 1, p7, ssp, p l , turn. Row 5-11. continue as above, knitting or purling one extra st each time between the slipped st and the decrease. Work final tw,o rows as follows: Row 12: S I 1, p l 5 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 13: K 1 8 .

Picking up Gusset Stitches: With the same needle, pick up 15 sts in the loops along the heel flap. You are in the intersection of the heel flap and the instep. Pick up a stitch here and knit it through the back loop (a twisted stitch). This will keep a hole from appearing here later. Place a marker.

Look at the other end of your needle, where the 18 heel turn stitches are patiently waiting. Transfer the distant 9 sts to the other needle. K across 15 instep sts. You now have 4 0 sts on this needle.

With the other needle, k across second 15

12

instep stitches, place marker, and pick up a st in the corner and k it through the back loop. Pick up 15 sts in the loops along the heel flap, then k the 9 heel turn sts. You have 4 0 sts on each needle.

K one round: k9; k l 4 through back loops, k2tog, (marker is here), k 3 0 instep sts, (marker is here), ssk, k l 4 through back loops, k9 .

Gusset: Round 1: k 2 1 , k2tog, k l , (marker is here), k 3 0 , (marker is here), k l , ssk, k 2 1 . Round 2, and all even numbered rounds: K across both needles. Round 3. k 2 0 , k2tog, k l , (marker is here), k 3 0 , (marker is here), k l , ssk, k 2 0 . Round 5 and all odd-numbered rounds: keep decreasing as in rounds 1 & 3 , knitting 1 fewer sts before the k2tog and after the ssk. Stop when you have a total of 3 0 sts left on each needle.

himself did the design. When the gold stitching is done, use a length of purple yarn to back-stitch the details. Don't make the mistake I only noticed moments before the book was set to go to the printer. I'll let you study the cover of the book, and the black and white photo of the socks at the start of this pattern, to catch it! The close-ups you'll find on page 13 are correct.

Foot: Just knit your way down the foot (which is in profile, and has been all along) until you are two inches short of the length of the foot.

Toe: You will decrease every other round. Round 1: K 1 2 , k2tog, k2, ssk, k l 2 on each needle. Round 2 and all even numbered rounds: k all sts. Round 3: K l 1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k l 1 on each needle. Round 5 and all odd-numbered rounds: Continue knitting one st fewer before and after decreases. Stop when you have a total of 10 sts left on each needle. K one round. K 5 sts more, and rearrange the sts so that the sock lies face-front on the needles rather than in profile.

Grafting the Toe: S e e the appendix for donkey ear remedies and grafting assistance. Don't forget to make the other sock with the winged shoe on the other side of the leg!

Duplicate stitching the winged feet: Use a two foot length of gold yarn and a tapestry needle. If you've never done duplicate stitch, practice a little on the sock (or on an old sweater) and then pull it out. You'll methodically duplicate stitch all the full squares and then weave your way in and out to fill out the triangles and smooth the edges. Don't expect perfection. Once it's on your runner's leg it will look like Mercury

13

F l e e t f o o t C h a r t s

Le f t Foo t R i g h t Foot

[ ] purl this stitch with purple yarn

knit this stitch with purple yarn, then later duplicate stitch it with gold

H knit this stitch with purple yarn

U s e the c lose-ups be low to b a c k s t i t c h the de ta i l s o f the wings and shoes :

14

Gardener's Sock This elegant black cotton sock sets off the fresh

colors of the flowers that bloom across its front. The 6-ply cotton pink and green yarns include one ply of lustrous rayon, which heightens their color and catches light. The background yarn, Fortissima Cotton, is famed for its soft hand and durability. A lxl ribbing begins at the top of the leg and then a curved opening of stockinette begins in the front after about two inches. This smooth space is where the flower grows. If the design is done in duplicate stitch, this is one of the easiest socks in the book.

Yarn: Two 50g , 2 1 0 m balls Fortissima Cotton, color 0 2 ; one 5 0 gram, 1 3 0 m ball each Malta, 8 2 % cotton, 1 8 % rayon, colors 2 6 and 14 . Gauge: 7 sts per inch. Needles: Two circular needles to give you proper gauge (probably size 1 or 2 ) Size: Women's medium

Leg: Cast on 5 6 sts, place 2 8 sts on each needle, and join by switching the two end stitches. Work k l p l ribbing for 2 inches. On needle that begins with a k s t , k l , p l , k l , begin chart. End k l , p l . Continue ribbing on other needle. Chart will

continue part of the way down the instep. You may choose to work the color design using intarsia-in-the-round (see appendix) or by work­ing duplicate stitch later. Work until leg is 6 " long. Heel Flap: You will work the heel on the back needle (without the flower) while the instep needle (needle with the flower) rests. Row 1 : S l l as if to purl, *k l , s l l . repeat from *, end k l . Row 2 : S I 1 as if to purl, p26 , k l . Repeat rows 1 and 2 another 13 times for a total of 2 8 heel flap rows.

Turning Heel: Row 1 : K 16 sts, k2tog, k l , turn. Row 2 : S I 1, p5, ssp, p l , turn. Row 3 : S I 1, k6 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 4 : S I 1, p7, ssp, p l , turn. Row 5: S I 1, k8 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 6: S I 1, p9, ssp, p l , turn. Row 7: S I 1, k lO, k2tog, k l , turn. Row 8: S I 1, pl 1, ssp, p l , turn. Row 9: S I 1, k l 2 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 10 : S I 1, p l 3 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 1 1 : S I 1, k l 4 , k2tog, turn. Row 12: S I 1, p l 5 , ssp. turn. Row 13 : K 1 6 s t s .

Pick up Gusset Stitches: Pick up 6 sts in loops along heel flap on this needle. Switch to the other needle and pick up another 8, plus 1 twisted corner st for a total of 9 picked up sts on this needle. Knit across the 2 8 instep sts (con­tinuing to work intarsia if you are doing so). Pick up 1 twisted st in the corner and 8 more in loops. Use the other needle to pick up 6 more loops. You now have 4 6 sts on the instep needle and 2 8 on the sole needle. The 18 extra sts on the instep needle will all be decreased away as you make the gusset.

Gusset: Round 1 : On instep needle, k7 , k2 tog, K 2 8 , ssk, k7 . On sole needle, k across. Round 2 : K across both needles. Round 3 : On instep needle, k6 , k2tog, k 2 8 , ssk, k6 . So le needle: k across. Round 4 and all even rounds: K across both needles, keeping to instep pattern. Round 5: On instep needle, k5 , k2tog, k 2 8 , ssk, k 5 . So le needle: k across.

15

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Gardener's Sock Charts The leg starts out with two inches of k l p l ribbing, which then dissolves into a smooth stockinette space just slightly wider than the flower design. The k i p ribbing continues around the sides and back of the leg.

[ ] purl with black yarn

§H knit with black yarn

S knit with green yarn

• knit with pink yarn

16

Round 9: On instep needle, k3 , k2tog, k 2 8 , ssk, k3 . Sole needle: k across. Round 11 : On instep needle, k2, k2tog, k 2 8 , ssk, k2. Sole needle: k across. Round 13: On instep needle, k l , k2tog, k 2 8 , ssk, k l . Sole needle: k across. Round 15: On instep needle, k2tog, k 2 8 , ssk. Sole needle: k across. Transfer 1 st from each end of the instep needle to the sole needle. Round 17: On instep needle, k 2 8 . Sole needle: Ssk, k 2 6 , k2tog. Round 18: Knit across both needles. You have 2 8 sts on each needle. If you've been working intarsia-in-the-round, it is now complete. Bravo!

Foot: Continue knitting all rounds until the sock is 8" long from heel to current round.

Toe: You'll work a centered double decrease (edd; see abbreviations for technique) toe. Rear­

range the stitches so that the sock is in profile, with 2 8 stitches on each needle. To do so, you'll need to knit 14 sts into one needle. You will work the centered double decrease as follows: Round 1: K 12, edd, k 2 5 , edd, k l 3 . Round 2 : K all sts. Repeat rounds 1 and 2 another 8 times. You should have 10 sts left on each needle. Rearrange the sts again (you'll have to knit 5 stitches into the first needle to do so), so the sock is now face-front, so that you can graft. Each needle will start with the central decrease stitch followed by 9 more stitches.

Grafting the Toe: Use the donkey ear elimina­tion technique described in the appendix, and graft the stitches. Weave in loose ends (if you have done intarsia-in-the-round, you will have quite a few), or work duplicate stitch if you have not done intarsia-in-the-round.

While you are peacefully knit t ing, let your a t tent ion drop into the

warmth of your hands and the feeling of the yarn gliding and pressing against them . . . your fingers moving gracefully and steadily . . . in s i lence.

17

Night-Blooming Jasmine

These charcoal socks, dark as the night, bloom with luminous wreathes of jasmine flowers. I knit my wreathes in handspun Samoyed from a dog aptly named Cloud; you may choose a fingering or similar weight white angora or even a mohair. The more feathery the fiber, the better. This is a simple sock to knit, and a fine time to learn to knit with two strands of yarn at a time, if you've never tried it. The only trick is to strand the yarns loosely enough that you can be sure of getting the sock over your heel. You have 10 extra stitches on the stranded rounds, which will help protect against over-tightness. You will have to gently hand-wash these socks, because the pure angora is not machine-washable.

Yarn: Two 50g , 21 Om balls Trekking Color, 7 5 % wool, 2 5 % nylon, in color 6 2 , and one 10g, 37yd ball Angora Creative, 1 0 0 % angora, in color 0 1 . Gauge: 8 sts = 1 " Needles: Two 2 4 " circular needles in the size to give you the correct gauge (probably size 1 or 2 ) . Size: Women's medium

Leg: Cast on 7 0 sts and work k l p l ribbing for 2" . Knit all rounds for 1". In next round, m l k (pick up loop beneath st you just knit, place loop on left needle, and knit it) every seventh stitch to make a total of 8 0 sts in the next round. Knit 1 round, and rearrange sts if necessary to give you 4 0 on each needle. Now join the white yarn and start the 19-round Jasmine pattern, working from the chart below. Note that it is worked in 10-st repeats, which means that you will have 4 tidy repeats on each needle and it will be quite easy to follow.

When you have completed the 19 stranded rows, drop the white yarn, knit one more round and then ssk every seventh st (you will be ssk'ing every 7th and 8th st together) so that you are back to 3 5 sts on each needle. Continue knitting all rounds.

Heel Flap: You will work the heel flap on the 3 5 sts on one needle. Row 1 : si 1 as if to purl, *k l , si 1, repeat from *, ending k2. Row 2 : SI 1 as if to purl, p 3 3 , k l . Repeat these two rows until you have 3 6 rows of heel stitch.

Turn the Heel: Row 1: K 1 9 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row2: S I 1, p5, ssp, p l , turn. Row 3: S I 1, k6 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 4: S I 1, p7, ssp, p l , turn. Row 5-14: continue to decrease as above, knitting or purling one extra st each time be­tween the slipped st and the decrease. Row 15: S I 1, k l 8 , k2tog.

Picking up Gusset Stitches: With the same needle, pick up 18 sts in the loops along heel flap. In the corner where the heel flap meets the instep stitches, pick up a stitch and knit it through the back loop. This will keep a hole from appearing here later. Place a marker. Look at the other end of your needle, where the heel turn stitches are patiently waiting. Transfer the distant 10 sts to the other needle.

K across 18 of the instep sts. You now have 4 7 sts on this needle. Now pick up the other needle and knit across the remaining 1 7 instep stitches, place a marker, and pick up a st in the corner and k it through the back loop. Pick up 18 sts in the loops along the heel flap, then the 10 heel turn sts. You should have 4 7 sts on the first

lcS

needle and 4 6 on the second. K one round: k lO, k l 7 through back loops,

k2tog (marker is here), k 3 5 , (marker is here), ssk, k l 7 through back loops, k lO.

Gusset: Round 1: k 2 6 , k2tog, (marker is here), k 3 5 , (marker is here), ssk, k 2 6 . Round 2, and all even numbered rounds: K across both needles. Round 3: k 2 5 , k2tog, (marker is here), k 3 5 , (marker is here), ssk, k 2 5 . Round 5 and all odd-numbered rounds: keep decreasing as in rounds 1 & 3, knitting 1 fewer sts before the k2tog and after the ssk. When you have 3 6 sts left on the first needle and 3 5 on the second, knit one round, then work one more decrease on the first needle. You now have 3 5 sts on each needle.

Foot: Knit your way down the foot until you are 2" from the toe tips. How to know? Try the sock on, before you have gone too far.

Toe: The rest is easy. The 18th stitch on each needle is the center stitch, and you will work a centered double decrease (edd) on it every other round. Round 1 : *K 16; si 2 as if to k2tog, k l , pass k st over 2 slipped sts; k 16, repeat from * on other needle. Round 2 and all even rounds: Knit merrily around. Round 3 and all odd rounds: Repeat round 1, except drop the first and last k st count on each needle by 1. For instance, round 3 begins and ends with k l 5 on each needle. Continue until you have 13 sts on each needle.

Grafting the Toe: Use the donkey ear elimina­tion technique described in the appendix, and graft the stitches. Weave in loose ends, and you are done with at least one sock, if not two.

19 18 17 16 15 16 15

14 13 12

11 1(1 !)

8 7 6 5

4 3 2

1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

This is one repeat of the Night-Blooming Jasmine design. Enjoy!

19

Columbine Peak Lace and ribbing combine in this rugged and

beautiful sock. Panels of lxl ribbing flow down the sides of the foot all the way to the toe to keep the lace panels snug. This is an easy, methodical sock to work. I've often wondered if lace socks let cold air in the little yarn over holes, but I can say from my sock-wearing experience in the Pacific Northwest, that it doesn t seem to matter as long as the socks are knit of wool.

Yarn: two 50g , 2 1 0 m , Fortissima Colori 7 5 % wool, 2 5 % nylon, in color 4 8 5 Gauge: 17 stitches = 2 " Needles: Two 2 4 " circular needles in the size that gives you the correct gauge (probably size 1 or 2 ) . Size: Women's medium

Leg: Cast on 7 2 stitches, divide between two needles, join by switching the two end stitches, and work k l , pl ribbing for two inches. Knit all sts for two rounds, then begin Columbine Peak pattern. Since the pattern repeat is 12 sts, you will fit three repeats on each needle. Repeat the 14-row pattern 4 times, skipping final row of last repeat.

Heel Flap: Row 1: P 3 5 , k l . Row 2: si 1 as if to purl, *k l , s l l , repeat from *, end k l . Row 3: S I 1 as if to purl, p34 , k l . Repeat rows 2 and 3 another 1 7 times.

Turn Heel: Row 1: On right side, k 2 0 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 2 : S I 1, p5, ssp, p l , turn. Row 3: S I 1, k6 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 4 : S I 1, p7, ssp, p l , turn Rows 5 - 1 4 : Continue knitting or purling one more stitch each row. Row 15 : S I 1, k 18 , k2tog, turn Row 16: S I 1, P 1 8 , ssp, turn. Row 17: K 2 0 .

Picking up Gusset Stitches: Pick up 18 sts along side of heel flap, plus one twisted stitch picked up at gusset-instep corner. Place a marker, then knit across 18 instep sts. Use other needle to knit remaining 18 instep sts, place a marker, pick up one twisted stitch at gusset-instep corner and 18 more along heel flap. Knit 10 heel turn sts onto this needle, so that you have a total of 4 7 sts on each needle. Your sock is now in profile.

Gusset: Round 1 and all odd rows: k up to last 3 picked up sts at gusset corner; k2tog, k l , (p l , k l ) 6 times; work 12-st instep lace pattern; ( k l , p l ) 6 times, k l , ssk, k to end of needle. Round 2 and all even rounds: K around but keep the 12-st ribbing columns going. After 11 decrease rounds, you should have a total of 7 2 stitches. Rearrange the sts again to put all the ribbing and lace on instep needle and the other sts on the sole needle (sock is face-front now).

Foot: Continue with the established pattern for a total of 5 repeats of the downward arrow on the foot. The 14th row of the last repeat is the first row of the toe decrease. If your foot is a different length, adjust as needed.

20

Toc: Round 1: * K 1 5 , k2tog, k2 , ssk, k l 5 , repeat from * on other needle. Round 2 and all even numbered rounds: knit. Round 3 : * K 1 4 , k2tog, k2 , ssk, k l 4 , repeat from * on other needle. Round 5 and all odd-numbered rounds: Continue knitting one st fewer before and after decreases. Stop when you have 14 sts left on each needle. K one round. K 7 more, and rearrange the sts so that the sock lies face-front.

Grafting: Refer to the appendix for grafting assistance, then graft, weave in ends, and you are done.

\ D

s a

a s a

a / •

a / s a

a / D /

14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Columbine Pattern Repeat

0 yarn over

• k2tog

• ssk

• knit

hen your home is quiet, l isten to the sounds your needles

and yarn make . T h e y have thei r own gentle voice, and you may never hea r it unless you go quiet and just l isten.

21

Two Alert Cats Circling this creamy cotton sock are two

beautiful and alert yellow cats. They stand at full attention, their faces close, both peering out­wards, while on the back of your leg their tails seem to dance together. You may work this sock in either intarsia-in-the-round (see appendix for methods) or by adding duplicate stitch when you are done. The cuff is rolled stockinette. Its an easy sock if you use duplicate stitch, and more challenging if you choose intarsia-in-the-round.

Yarn: Two 50g , 2 1 0 m balls Fortissima Cottolana in color 10 (cream), and 1 ball in color 7 (yel­low). Note: I decided to slightly deepen color of the yellow yarn by microwaving it for 15 minutes in a glass bowl containing 3 drops of yellow food coloring, 2 tablespoons of white vinegar, and a quart of boiling water. This gives better contrast with the cream, and is fun, too! Gauge: 7 1 /2 sts per inch ( 3 0 sts = 4 inches) Needles: Two 2 4 " circular needles which give you this gauge (probably size 2 or 3 ) . Size: Women's medium

Leg: Cast on 6 2 sts with yellow yarn, divide between two needles, and join by switching the

end stitches. Knit rounds for 1". Join in the cream yarn. Now *kl yellow, k l cream, repeat from * for another inch. Be sure to strand the yarn loosely behind so that the cuff remains elastic enough to go over your heel. Now drop the yellow and knit with cream. If you are working intarsia-in-the-round, you will start the cat design 1 1 /4" from the yellow and white cuff. If you plan to do duplicate stitch, this is where you will start the design too, but after finishing the sock. Knit along until the leg measures 7".

Heel Flap: You will work the heel flap in rows on 31 stitches on one needle. If you have been working intarsia-in-the-round, then you have the sock in profile, and will have to rearrange stitches so that the sock is face-front, with the cats centered in the front. If you plan to work dupli­cate stitch, you may leave the stitches as they are. To work the heel flap, you will work rows back and forth on the heel needle while the instep needle rests. Join in the yellow yarn again, and *kl yellow, k l cream, repeating from * and ending with k l yellow. Turn and purl back, maintaining the same colors. Repeat these two rows 12 more times for a total of 2 6 rows of the yellow and cream vertical stripe.

Turn the Heel: You may alternate the yellow and cream yarns or use all one color for turning the heel. Row 1: K 1 7 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 2 : S l l , p5, ssp, p l , turn. Row 3 : S I 1, k6 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 4 : S I 1, p7, ssp, p l , turn. Row 5: S I 1, k8 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 6: S I 1, p9, ssp, p l , turn. Row 7: S I 1, k lO, k2tog, k l , turn. Row 8: S I 1, pl 1, ssp, p l , turn. Row 9: S I 1, k l 2 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 10: S I 1, p l 3 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 1 1 : S I 1, k l 4 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 12: S I 1, p l 5 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 13 : S I 1, k l 6 , k2tog. You have 18 sts.

Pick up Gusset Stitches: With cream yarn, pick up and knit 16 sts along the edge of the heel flap, plus one at the corner between the heel and instep. Knit that last stitch through the back loop to twist it so it does not leave a hole (de­pending on how you picked it up, you may have to knit it through the front loop to twist it). Knit

22

across 16 of the instep sts. Now let the busy needle rest while the instep needle knits the remaining 15 sts it holds. Pick up and twist one stitch in the corner, and pick up and knit 16 sts down the other side of the heel flap, and k 9 of the heel turn sts from the other needle. You now have 4 2 sts on the resting needle and 41 on the needle that has been busy. Your sock is in profile. Knit one round.

Gusset: Round 1: K 2 4 , k2tog, k 3 1 , ssk, k 2 4 . Round 2 and all even rounds: K Round 3: K 2 3 , k2tog, k 3 1 , ssk, k 2 3 . Odd rounds: repeat round 3 , each time knitting one fewer sts at beginning and end of round. Round 19 : K 1 5 , k2tog, k 3 1 , ssk, k l 5 . Round 2 0 : K 6 3 Round 2 1 : K 1 4 , k2tog, k 4 7 .

Foot: Knit all rounds (on a total of 6 2 sts) until sock is 2" shorter than your foot length.

Toe: You will work a centered double decrease (edd) on the center stitch of each needle. Round 1 : Join in the yellow yarn, and begin *kl yellow, k l cream, repeating from * for 14 sts. Use cream to work edd on the next 3 sts, then resume *kl yellow, k l cream, repeating from * for 14 sts. Repeat on other needle. Round 2 and all even rounds: K around, keeping to established colors, being sure that central st on each needle is cream. Round 3: *kl yellow, k l cream, repeating from *, ending with yellow, for 13 sts. Use cream to work edd , then resume *kl cream, k l yellow, repeating from *, ending with cream, for 13 sts. Repeat on other needle. Repeat decrease pattern on odd rounds, main­taining established colors, until you have 11 sts left on each needle. Rearrange stitches so sock is face-front (you'll have to knit partway into one needle to do so).

Grafting: Correct for donkey ears, and graft with cream yarn. Work duplicate stitch if you haven't been doing intarsia, and weave in ends. Put on your cat socks, and purr.

1 2 3 4 .5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 3.5 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62

Two Alert Cats Chart Stitch 6 0 marks the center front of the sock. Each

needle has 31 stitches, with stitches 6 1 - 2 9 on one needle, and stitches 3 0 - 6 0 on the other.

If you are going to work the cats in duplicate stitch, simply identify the center 5 stitches in the front of the sock, and work the cats on either side of this column of stitches.

If you are working intarsia-in-the-round, you'll know where the center front and center back are because the needles begin and end at those points.

Cable-top This sock introduces Cat's Turned Toe© . Once

knitted, the toe stands open and sleek, like a little custom parking garage for your toe. An invisible cast-on unites two "heel turns " at their curved edges, and knitting flows over the top of the toes and curves over the sides in a most mysterious and fluid way. The sock may be simplified by skipping the cabled I-cord at the top of the leg. Instead, knit until the leg is about one inch taller than you wish. Bind off loosely, and then the sock will have a softly rolled cuff. Or, work a ribbed leg.

Materials: Two 5 0 g balls Fortissima 6 ply, 125m, 7 5 % wool, 2 5 % nylon, color 10 . Gauge: 6 stitches = 1 " Needles: Two 2 4 " circular needles in the size that gives you the correct gauge (probably size 3 or 4) and a U-shaped cable needle. Size: Women's medium

Starting the toe: Cast on 3 9 sts on one needle, using invisible cast-on (see appendix) with a clearly contrasting color waste yarn of similar

weight. You will only use 3 7 sts; the 2 extra are for security until you "claim" the 3 7 you need.

Purl 3 7 sts of the 3 9 sts, using both ends of the same needle. Slide the 3 7 sts to the needle's flexible cable. Pick up the other needle and, starting at the end where you began to purl, slide the needle tip through the first 3 7 of the sts waiting in the waste yarn. When you have 3 7 , slide them all to the needle's flexible cable. Make certain there are 3 7 sts on each flexible cable, not counting the extras. Pull out the waste yarn and drop the extra cast-on sts. Take the cast-on yarn tail and pull it through a nearby hole in the yarn between the cables. This will secure the first st and later you can pull the yarn end back out and weave it in properly. Now take a look at the curious sight on your needles: a narrow ribbon with a bumpy purl back and a smooth plaited front. Intriguing, isn't i t?

Turning the Toe©: Holding both needles in your left hand, with the purl bumps touching your palm, and pull the right hand needle so that its stitches are in the middle of its cable. This needle will rest while the other works: Row 1 : S I 1, k 2 0 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 2 : S I 1, p7, ssp, p l , turn. Row 3 : S I 1, k8 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 4 : S I 1, p9, ssp, p l , turn. Row 5: S I 1, k lO, k2tog, k l , turn. Row 6: S I 1, p 1 1, ssp, p 1, turn. Row 7: S I 1, k l 2 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 8: SI 1, p l 3 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 9: S I 1, k l 4 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 10: S I 1, p l 5 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 1 1 : S I 1, k l 6 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 12: S I 1, p l 7 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 13 : S I 1, k l 8 , K2tog, K l , turn. Row 14: S I 1, p l 9 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 15 : S I 1, k 2 0 , k2tog. Do you have 2 2 sts on the needle? Good. Pick up 2 sts in the space between the two needles, and knit them twisted. You now have 2 4 sts on this needle. That 's it for this side. Slide your knitting to the flexible cable of the needle you've been working with, and pick up the other needle, where the other 3 7 sts have been napping. Please notice that these 3 7 sts are alternately mounted correctly and incorrectly. Slip them from one needle point to the other, correcting mounts as you go. Now knit the exact same shape on this needle by repeating rows 1-15. Pick up 2

25

sts in the space between the two needles, and knit them twisted. You have just made a "Turned Toe©". Congratulations!

Foot: Transfer the last st on each needle to the other needle so that the foot lies face-front. Knit up the foot, using each needle to knit its own 2 4 sts, for a total of 4 8 sts circling your foot. S top when you have 6 0 % of the foot's length (6" for a 1 0 " foot).

Gusset: You'll be increasing at either end of the sole needle every other row to form the gusset triangles on the sides of the heel. Your 2 4 sts on the sole needle will double to 4 8 , while the instep remains 2 4 . Round 1 : K l , ml by knitting into the loop beneath the st you just knit, k 2 2 , ml by knitting into the loop beneath the next st, k l ; k 2 4 . Round 2 and all even rounds: Knit. Round 3 : just like round 1, except k 2 4 between the 2 increases. For round 5, k 2 6 , etc.

Repeat the alternating increase and plain knit rounds until you have 4 8 sts on the sole needle.

Option to Increase Durability: On the seventh increase round, begin heel stitch on the middle 2 4 sts of the sole needle (odd rounds: *sl 1, k l , repeat from *; even rounds: k). Continue heel stitch through heel turn and up heel flap.

Turn the Heel: You have 4 8 sts on the sole needle and 2 4 on the instep needle. Work short rows, wrapping as you go (see a knitting refer­ence for short-row wrapping if necessary), to create a heel cup on the middle 2 4 sts of the sole needle. If you've begun heel stitch, continue it through the heel turn and on up the back of the heel, even if you have to fudge a bit here and there. Row 1 : K 1 2 , S I 1, k 2 2 , si and wrap next st, turn. Row 2 : S I 1, p 2 1 , si and wrap next st, turn. Odd rows: S I 1, k l fewer sts than the row before, si and wrap next st, turn. Even rows: S I 1, pi fewer sts than the row before, si and wrap next st, turn. Continue through row 16 . Then you'll begin . . .

Nibbling up the Gusset: Note: If you haven't started heel stitch (see above) yet, this is the time to do so; or you could simply skip it.

Row 17: S I 1, k7 , then k7, knitting wraps carefully with sts as you go. S I 1, k l (this st is the first gusset st to be nibbled up), psso. Turn. Row 18: S I 1, p i 4 , then p8, purling wrap with sts as you go. Slide needle tip into next st with wrap and following st (second gusset st to be nibbled up), and p these two sts together. Turn. Row 19: S I 1, k 2 2 , si 1, k l , psso. Row 2 0 : S I 1, p22 , P 2 t o g . When you have just 2 4 sts on this needle again, all gusset sts have been knibbled up. Knit one round, abandoning heel stitch if you've been working it, and pick up and knit a twisted st in each intersection between needles, then knit it together with the next stitch. This will eliminate any little openings. Continue up the leg for 3 ' , then increase 1 st every 8th st, making your leg 5 4 sts. Continue knitting until the leg measures 6".

Cable Top: Use a circular needle or a double-pointed needle to work two 6-row ropes of 3-st free I-cord, alternately attaching them for 3 sts. You'll also need a stitch holder (a U-shaped cable needle works well) to hold the rope that waits in back as you work the one in front. Consult a knitting reference to learn about I-cord.

To start, use the backward loop method to cast 3 sts onto the needle you would knit from if you were to continue doing rounds. Rows 1 , 2 , and 3: (attached I-cord) Knit the first two cast-on sts, then ssk the third one with the next leg stitch. Transfer the 3 I-cord sts to the left needle (or slide a double-pointed needle or pull a circular needle from one end to the other). Row 4 - 9 : (free I-cord) K 3 , transfer the 3 sts you just knit from the r needle tip to the 1 needle tip (or slide a double-pointed needle or pull a circular needle from one end to the other). Finishing row 9: Push the free I-cord and its needle to the back of the work. Join in a new strand of yarn and a new needle at the junction of the last attached I-cord st and the next leg st. Repeat Rows 1-9. Each time you complete a set of attached I-cord and free I-cord, push the cord, needle, and yarn to the back and pull the other over it to the front so you form a cable. Repeat rows 1-9 until you have attached I-cord to all the leg stitches. Now you may graft each rope end to its corresponding base, or simply sew the ends together neatly.

26

Alpine Meadow These are the socks to wear when frolicking in

the Swiss Alps with Heidi, Peter, and the goats. They are not at all difficult, because you will work with only two colors at a time, and much of the sock is pure blue, like an Alpine sky. When I show my collection of socks to knitters, this one and the Leaf and Tendril are the designs they sigh over most. Be sure to loosely strand the colors or else your sock will be too tight to get on. A small device that holds the colors separate on your finger is available; see your local yarn store or the appendix for sources.

Yarn: Two 50g , 21 Om balls of Fortissima Schoeller Esslinger, 7 5 % wool, 2 5 % nylon, in color 3 9 (blue), plus one in color 7 7 (sand), and one in color 7 (plum). Gauge: 9 sts = 1", and 11 rows = 1" Needles: Two 2 4 " circular needles to give you the correct gauge (probably size 1 or 2 ) . Size: women's medium (size 8, or 10" long)

Leg: Rounds 1 -8 : Using plum yarn (color 7) , cast on 6 6 sts, divide on two needles, and join by switching the first and last sts. Knit one round,

purl one round, repeating these two rounds 2 more times, and increasing 8 sts evenly spaced on last purl round. Knit two rounds on 7 4 sts (rows 1 and 2 on chart). Rounds 3 - 1 1 : Add in blue (color 3 9 ) yarn and begin to knit color-stranded design. The first 3 7 sts of the design will be the back of the sock, and the next 3 7 sts will be the front of the sock. Round 12 - 13 : Drop the plum yarn and knit in blue. On round 13 , decrease 2 sts evenly spaced, to bring you down to 7 2 sts. Rounds 16 - 2 8 : Continue working from color chart. On round 19 you will drop the plum yarn and take up the sand; then you will cut the sand, leaving a weavable tail, and take up the plum again on round 2 6 . Do try the sock on. If you can get your foot through this lovely band of color, then you are color-stranding loosely enough. If not, now is the time to unravel and start again. Round 2 9 and beyond: cut the plum, leaving a weavable tail, and knit rounds of blue until you have six inches of leg.

Heel Flap: Let the instep sts nap on their needle while you work the heel flap. Prop the color chart in front of you, and: Row 1 : S I 1 as if to purl, k 3 5 . Row 2 : (Start the plum yarn in the middle of this row.) S I 1 as if to purl, p34 , k l . Rows 3 - 1 8 : repeat rows 1 and 2 . Follow the color pattern and watch it emerge like a sweet dream slowly remembered. Rows 1 9 - 2 6 : You've cut a weavable tail of the plum yarn, even before I reminded you, because you are so smart. Now work heel stitch in blue until the flap is fully flapped: Row 19 : si 1 as if to purl, *k l , si 1, repeat from *, ending on k l . Row 2 0 : SI 1 as if to purl, p 3 4 , k l . Repeat these two rows until you have 18 rows of heel stitch.

Turn That Heel: Row 1: K 2 0 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row2: S I 1, p5, ssp, p i , turn. Row 3: S I 1, k6 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 4: S I 1, p7, ssp, p i , turn. Row 5 -14: continue to decrease as above, knitting or purling one extra st each time be­tween the slipped st and the decrease. Row 15: S I 1, k l 8 , k2tog, turn. Row 16: S I 1, p l 8 , ssp, turn. Row 17: S I 1, k l 9 . You have 2 0 sts.

27

Picking up Gusset Stitches: With the same needle, pick up 18 sts in the loops along heel flap. In the corner where the heel flap meets the instep stitches, pick up a stitch and knit it through the back loop. This will keep a hole from appearing here later. Place a marker. Look at the other end of your needle, where the heel turn stitches are patiently waiting. Transfer the distant 10 sts to the other needle. K across 18 instep sts. You now have 4 7 sts on this needle. Now pick up the other needle and knit across the remaining 18 instep stitches, place a marker, and pick up a st in the corner and k it through the back loop. Pick up 18 sts in the loops along the heel flap, then k the 10 heel turn sts. Each needle has 4 7 sts, and your sock is in profile.

K one round: k 10 , k 17 through back loops, k2tog (marker is here), k 3 6 , (marker is here), ssk, k l 7 through back loops through back loops, k 10 . Knit another round (92 sts).

Gusset: Round 1 : K 2 6 , k2tog, (marker is here), k 3 6 , (marker is here), ssk, k 2 6 . Round 2, and all even numbered rounds: K across both needles. Round 3: K 2 5 , k2tog, (marker is here), k 3 6 , (marker is here), ssk, k 2 5 . Round 5 and all odd-numbered rounds: keep decreasing as in rounds 1 & 3 , knitting 1 fewer sts before the k2tog and after ssk. When you have 3 6 sts left on each needle, you have com­pleted the decreases and may just knit your way down the foot for 1 3 / 4 " further.

Foot: You are now one and three quarter inches from the last gusset decrease, right? Good. Look at the band of plum, blue, and sand beneath the plum and blue cuff of the leg. Repeat that same design right here. When done, try the lovely sock on, if you haven't already. If you need another 3 inches of length, then here's what you do: Knit one more inch of blue (the toe will provide the other 2 " ) . Adjust the length as needed.

Toe: Don't worry, you will be using duplicate stitch later to do the plum stitches, and no one but you and I will ever know they weren't knit in to begin with. Please knit them in blue for now. Did you hear that? Please repeat it back to yourself so you don't forget. Your sock is in

profile, with 3 6 sts on each needle. This will put the centered double decrease in the middle of each needle, where it will be happy and so will you.

Prop the toe chart in front of you, if it isn't already there. Now I must tell you that I lied a minute ago. The centered double decrease cannot be in the middle of either set of 3 6 stitches because that would require an odd number, which you do not have. Instead, this is what you will have on each needle: 17 stitches, center stitch, 18 stitches. Do not fret; there are 3 5 sts between each centered double decrease. Count them if you don't believe me. Your centered double decrease is indeed centered. Now please work the color chart, working the decreases on alternate rows as the chart indicates. When you reach the top of the chart, stop! Breathe deeply. You are nearly done, but not until you weave these blue and sand stitches together with blue yarn, and go goggle-eyed with delight at the visual feast that will grace your toes. Be brave; check the appendix if you have lingering graftophobia, and dive in. If you are extremely limber, put the sock on and wave your toe in front of your face so you can admire its geometry; otherwise do the same with the sock on your hand. When you calm down, make the other sock and buy a ticket to Switzer­land.

28

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111

Alpine Meadow Heel Motif The motif is followed by 18 rows of heel

stitch done in all blue yarn.

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Alpine Meadow Toe Chart Columns on either side represent alternate

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needle holding 3 6 stitches.

30

Bavarian Twisted Stitch The twisted stitches used in this design rise

above the surface to create a sculpted, carved effect. Although the sock is rich with pattern, it is not difficult to knit, because the designs are symmetrical, repetitive, and pleasing to work. This would make a splendid knee sock. Just increase the width of the panels of twisted lxl ribbing on the sides of the leg, and decrease them back to five stitches wide as the leg narrows.

Yarn: Three 50g, 150m balls of Libero Sportgarn, 8 0 % wool, 2 0 % nylon, in color 5 0 . Gauge: 7 sts = 1 Needles: Two 2 4 " circular needles to give you the correct gauge (probably size 2 or 3 ) . Size: Women's medium.

Leg: Cast on 6 4 sts, join by switching the two end sts, and work 12 rounds of k l b , p l b ribbing. To change to pattern after the ribbing rounds are done, you will increase 4 sts as follows: work the first 9 sts of the pattern chart, then increase 1 st by purling in front and back of a purl st. This

makes sts 10 and 11 . You are keeping to the pattern, because both are purl sts (look at the chart to see). Work sts 12 - 2 4 in pattern, and then increase 1 st by purling in front and back of a purl st. This makes sts 2 5 and 2 6 . Work the other side of the sock exactly the same way, for a total of 6 8 sts on both needles. Continue working leg, following chart, but do not repeat rounds 13-2 0 ; instead repeat rounds 2 1 - 2 8 (row 13 and row 21 are different). When you have 5 pattern repeats ( 4 0 rows), you will be ready to start the heel.

Heel Flap: You will work the heel on sts 3 - 3 3 , keeping sts 1, 2 , and 3 4 for the instep. This means the heel will be worked on 31 sts, with 3 7 instep sts waiting to be worked later. Transfer st 3 4 to the instep needle. K l b , p l b (sts 1 and 2 ) , and transfer to instep needle. Now begin Row 1 : Slip 1 as if to purl, * (k l , slip 1 as if to knit), repeat from *until 2 sts from end, k2 . Row 2: Slip 1 as if to purl, purl to 1 st from end, k l . Repeat rows 1 and 2 fourteen more times, then repeat row 2 once.

Turning Heel: Row 1: K 17 sts, k2tog, k l , turn. Row 2 : S I 1, p5, ssp, p i , turn. Row 3: SI 1, k6 , k2tog, K l , turn. Row 4 : S I 1, p7, ssp, p i , turn. Row 5: S I 1, k8 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 6: S I 1, p9, ssp, p i , turn. Row 7: S I 1, k lO, k2tog, k l , turn. Row 8: S I 1, pi 1, ssp, p i , turn. Row 9: S I 1, k l 2 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 10: S I 1, p l 3 , ssp, p i , turn. Row 1 1 : S I 1, k l 4 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 12: S I 1, p i 5 , ssp, p i , turn. Row 13 : S I 1, k l 6 , k2tog. You have 18 sts.

Pick up Gusset Stitches: Pick up and knit 15 stitches in loops along side of heel flap, plus one at the corner of the heel flap and the instep, which you must twist by knitting through the back loop so it does not leave a hole (depending on how you pick this stitch up, you may need to knit through the front or back loop, but just make sure it is twisted), place marker. Knit 18 instep sts (row 21 of pattern). With the other needle, knit 19 instep sts in pattern, place marker, pick up and k one twisted st in the corner, pick up and knit 15 sts

31

on the other side of the heel flap, and knit across 9 of the heel turn sts. You now have 4 4 sts on this needle and 4 3 on the other. Your instep pattern is divided along a natural line: the single st column of k 1 b that runs from the cuff to the toe. Your sock is in profile.

Gusset: Round 1 : K 9 , k l 4 through back loops, k2tog, marker, p lb , follow chart sts 1-34 (pattern row 2 2 ) , k l b , p lb , marker, ssk, k l 4 through back loops, k9 . Round 2 and all even rounds: K to marker, p lb , work sts 1-34 of pattern, k l b , p lb , k from marker to end. Round 3 : K 2 2 , K 2 tog, marker, p lb , work sts 1-3 4 of pattern, k l b , p lb , marker, ssk, k 2 2 . Rounds 5 , 7, 9 , 1 1 , 13 , 15 , 17, 19 , 2 1 : K l fewer than before, K 2 tog, p lb , work sts 1-34 of pattern, k l b , p lb , ssk, k l fewer than before. You have 6 5 sts total.

Foot: Repeat rounds o f k l 3 , k l b , p lb , work sts 1-34 of pattern, k l b , p lb , k l b , k l 3 . Try the sock on, and stop 2 " short of your toe tips. Work one more round: k l 3 , k l b , p lb , k l b , p lb , ssk, work sts 5-1 7 of pattern, ssk, work sts 2 0 - 3 1 of pattern, k2tog, p lb , k l b , p lb , k l b , k l 3 . You now have 6 2 sts total.

Shaping Toe: The middle stitch of each needle is st 1 of the pattern, with 15 sts on either side. Work a centered double decrease (cdd) in st 1 : K 1 4 , slip 2 sts as if to k2tog, k l , and pass 2 slipped sts over k st. K to end of needle; repeat on next needle. Knit all sts on alternate rounds. Work a cdd in the same place every other row until you have 1 7 sts left on each needle, and then work a cdd every row until you have 9 sts remaining on each needle. Now transfer the sts so that each needle has one decrease st and 8 plain sts (k4 into one needle to do so).

Graft: Slip each decrease st over the adjacent st. This will help give you smooth edges when you graft the two sets of 8 sts together. Cut a tail about 12 inches long and graft, weave in ends, make the second one, and enjoy your handsome socks.

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34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Bavarian TWisted Stitch Chart Rows 2-11 are shown as one row on the shart, to save room.

Chart Symbols for Bavarian Twisted Stitch Sock

• • • •

Knit

Purl

Knit 1 through the back loop (twisted)

Purl 1 through the back loop (twisted)

Increase 1 by purling through front and then back of this stitch

This stitch does not yet exist; soon it will

IZ3

E 3 IZZI IS3

Twisted Right Cross: a purl stitch becomes a knit stitch; end k l b , k l

Twisted Left Cross: a purl stitch becomes a knit stitch; end k l , k l b

Twisted Left Cross: a knit stitch becomes a purl stitch; end p i , k l b

Twisted Right Cross: a knit stitch becomes a purl stitch; end k l b , pi

Twisted Left Cross: A useful trick for working this is to slip your right needle tip into back loop of second stitch on left needle, then slip first and second sts off. Quickly catch first stitch on tip of left needle, and slip second stitch from right needle to left needle. This switches their position with the first stitch in front. End k l , k l b .

Twisted Right Cross: With your nimble fingers you can slide your right needle from left to right through the first two stitches on left needle, as if to knit. Slip the stitches off left needle and watch them magically switch positions. Replace them on left needle; end k l b , k l .

3 4

i

1 s \

Leaf and Tendril Sock This is the most challenging of the socks in this

book, and will teach you the most new skills. However, it may be knitted by anyone who can follow directions. The sudden "aha!" of how to knit what I have named the Turned Toe® startled me awake in the wee hours of the night, and I am happy to pass it on to you.

To Turn a Toe®, a modified "heel turn " is worked twice, first on one side of an invisible cast-on, then the other. The invisible cast-on unites the two "heel turns" at their curved edge. Knitting flows over the top of the toes and across the sides in a most mysterious and fluid way. The fit is entirely footish! I don t believe this tech­nique could have been invented before the use of two circular needles. So, while you are turning your toe, bless the lovely flexible cables that bend to your desire.

From a Turned Toe® you rise to follow the vine of leaves and curling tendrils as it grows through

a clover-like meadow of reverse stockinette. There s a new heel, too, knitted "upside down ". An inch and a half from the top of the sock, as the vine dwindles to a single leaf, the meadow ends, and a ribbing of leaflets and fenceposts reach from the back to encircle the leg. This woodsy lace ribbing quietly transforms into a 3-round tubular bind-off, which swoops over the edge and dives back down the inside of the leg, making it quite impossible to tell at which end you began.

This sock is an education in itself. You will learn how to knit a Turned Toe®, how to close a curxe (the tendril), how embossed motifs (the leaf) alternately spread and pull in adjacent fabric, an "upside down " heel, and how to bind off in tubular fashion, the tidiest and most elastic bind-off of all. I find knitting this sock utterly satisfying, from the flowing toe to the enchant­ment of the growing vine. I hope you will too. Note: The photo shows a short-row heel, but I have changed it to a more durable heel - see photo on page five).

Yarn: Two 50g , 2 1 0 m balls of Trekking Sport , 7 5 % wool, 2 5 % nylon, in color 1 4 7 6 Gauge: 9 sts = 1 " Needles: You'll need two 2 4 " circular needles to give you the correct gauge (probably size 1 or 2 ) . Size: women's medium

Turning the Toe©: Cast 5 3 sts onto one circular needle using a provisional or invisible cast-on (see appendix), using waste yarn of a similar weight. You will only use 51 of these 5 3 sts; the 2 extras are for security until you "claim" the 51 you actually need.

Purl 51 sts, using both ends of the needle. Slide the sts to the needle's flexible cable. Pick up the other needle and, starting at the end where you began to purl, slide the needle point through the first 51 of the sts waiting in the waste yarn. When you have 5 1 , slide them all to the needle's flexible cable. Make certain there are 51 sts on each needle, not counting the extras. Pull out the waste yarn and drop the extra cast-on sts. Take the cast-on yarn tail and pull it through a nearby hole in the yarn between the cables; this will secure the first st and later you can pull the yarn end back out and weave it in properly.

Do take a look at the curious sight on your

35

needles: a narrow ribbon with a bumpy purl back and a smooth plaited front. Intriguing, isn't it?

Let's Turn the Toe©: Holding both needles in your left hand, with the purl bumps touching your palm, and pull the right hand needle so that its stitches are in the middle of its cable. This needle will rest while the other works: Row 1: S I 1, k 2 7 , k2tog, k l , turn. Row 2 : S I 1, P 8 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 3 : S I 1, K 9 , K2tog, K l , turn. Row 4 : S I 1, P 10 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 5: S I 1, K 1 1 , K2tog, K l , turn. Row 6: S I 1, P 12, ssp, p l , turn. Row 7: S I 1, K 13 , K2tog, K l . turn. Row 8: S I 1, P 14 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 9: S I 1, K 15 , K2tog, K l , turn. Row 10: S I 1, P 16 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 11 : S I 1, K 1 7, K2tog, K l , turn. Row 12: S I 1, P 18 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 13 : S I 1, K 19 , K2tog, K l , turn. Row 14 : S I 1, P 2 0 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 15 : S I 1, K 2 1 , K2tog, K l , turn. Row 16: S I 1, P 2 2 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 1 7: S I 1, K 2 3 , K2tog, K l , turn. Row 18 : S I 1, P 2 4 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 19: S I 1, K 2 5 , K2tog, K l , turn. Row 2 0 . S I 1, P 2 6 , ssp, p l , turn. Row 2 1 : S I 1, K 2 7 , K2tog, K l . Do you have 3 0 sts on the needle? Good. That 's it for this side.

Slide your knitting to the flexible cable of the needle you've been working with, kiss it good night (it will be napping for a while), and pick up the other needle, where the other 51 sts have been patiently waiting to be asked to dance. Please notice that these 51 sts are alternately mounted correctly and incorrectly. Slip them from one needle point to the other, correcting mounts as you go. Now knit the exact same shape on this needle by dancing through rows 1-21 again.

You can probably guess what comes next: knitting around and around from the toe on up the foot, using each needle to knit its own 3 0 sts, for a total of 6 0 sts circling your foot. Good job!

Important Considerations: The sole of the foot is worked in plain stockinette (knit all stitches) and the top will have a purl (reverse stockinette) background with knitted leaves and tendrils. Many people (like myself) purl more loosely than they knit. If you notice that you are

doing so (the top of the sock will puff out), it is a simple matter to remedy this minor disaster. Just switch the top needle for the next smaller size and voilà! You are in balance once more.

Now go read the descriptions of trc (twisted right cross) and tic (twisted left cross) in the "Abbreviations and Explanations" section on the last page of the book before going any farther. You'll find specific references to this pattern. Thank you!

Foot: The beautiful meadow begins! Do not be dismayed by the 4 7 rounds which follow. As the pattern emerges it will make sense. You repeat only rounds 2 4 - 4 7 , and will fall under the spell of the meandering leaves and tendrils. Round 1.KX2, P 6 , k 4 2 . Round2: MO, plO, k 4 0 . Round 3 . K 8 , p l 4 , k 3 8 . Round 4: K 6 , p6, K l b , pl 1, k 3 6 . Round 5: K 4 , P 8 , tic, p l 2 , k 3 4 . Round 6. K 2 , pl 1, k l b , P 1 4 , k 3 2 . Round 7: P 1 3 , tic, P 1 5 , k 3 0 . Round 8: P 1 4 , k l b , m l k , p2tog, p l 3 , k 3 0 . Round 9: P 1 4 , k2b, p l 4 , k 3 0 . Round 10: P 1 4 , k l b , m l k , k l b , p2tog, p7, k l b ,

p4, k 3 0 . Round 11: P 1 4 , k2b, tic, p7, tic, p3, k 3 0 . Round 12: P 1 4 , k2b, p l , k l b , p8, k l b , p3, k 3 0 . Round 13: P 1 4 , K2b, p l , tic, P 7 , tic, P 2 , k 3 0 . Round 14: P 1 4 , k2b, P 2 , k l b , p8, k l b , P 2 , k 3 0 . Round 15: P 1 4 , k2b, p2, tic, p6, trc, p2, k 3 0 . Round 16: P 1 4 , k2b, P 3 , k l b , p6, k l b , P 3 , k 3 0 . Round 17: P 1 4 , k2b, p3, tic, m l k , p2tog, p2, trc, p3, k 3 0 . Round 18: P 1 4 , k2b, p4, k l b , tic, p2, k l b , p4, k 3 0 . Round 19: P 1 4 , k2b, p4, tic, tic, trc; slip the last 3 sts to the 1 needle and ignoring the third one (farthest from the 1 needle tip), pass the first st over the second, making one out of two. Pass the sts back to the r needle. I admit this maneuver will cause you a moment of stress, but it will be over soon and by the time you get halfway up the sock you may actually be looking forward to the thrill of stalwart needling. Now, you're not through with this round yet, so: mlp , p4, k 3 0 . Round 20: This one is a breeze: P 1 4 , k2b, p5, k l b , p8, k 3 0 . Round21: P 1 4 , k2b, p5, yo, k l b , yo, p8, k 3 0 . Round 22: P 4 , k l b , p7, p2tog, k l b , m l k , k l b , p5, k l , k l b , k l , P 8 , k 3 0 .

36

Round 23: P 3 , trc, p7, trc, k2b, p5, k l , yo, k l b , yo, k l , p8, k 3 0 . Round24: P 3 , k l b , p8, k l b , p l , k2b, p5, k2 , k l b , k2, P 8 , k 3 0 . Round25: P 2 , trc, p7, trc, p l , k2b, p5, k2 , yo, k l b , yo, k2, p8, k 3 0 . Round26: P 2 , k l b , P 8 , k l b , p2, k2b, P 5 , k 3 , k lb , k3 , P 8 , k 3 0 . Round 27: P 2 , tic, p6, trc, p2, K2b , p5, k3 , yo, k l b , yo, k3 , p8, k 3 0 . Round28: P 3 , k l b , P 6 , k l b , p3, k2b, p5, k4 , k l b , k4, P 8 , k 3 0 . Round29: P 3 , tic, p2, p2tog, m l k , trc, p3, k2b, P 5 , ssk, k2, k l b , k2 , k2tog, P 8 , k 3 0 . Round 30: P 4 , k l b , p2, trc, k l b , p4, k2b, p5, k3 , k l b , k3 , P 8 , k 3 0 . Round 31: P 4 , mlp , tic, trc; slip the last 3 sts to the 1 needle and ignoring the third one (farthest the 1 needle tip), pass the second st over the first, making one out of two, si sts back to r needle, trc, p4, k2b, p5, ssk, k l , k l b , k l , k2tog, p8, k 3 0 . Round32: P 8 , k l b , p5, k2b, p5, k2 , k l b , k2 , P 8 , k 3 0 . Round 33: P 8 , yo, k l b , yo, p5, k2b, p5, ssk, k l b , k2tog, P 8 , k 3 0 . Round J 4 . P 8 , k l , k l b , k l , P 5 , k l b , m l k , k l b , P 2 tog , P 3 , k l , k l b , k l , P 3 , k l b , P 4 , k 3 0 . Round 35: P 8 , k l , yo, k l b , yo, k l , p5, K2b , tic, p3, edd, p3, tic, p3, k 3 0 . Round36: P 8 , k2, k l b , k2, p5, k2b, p l , k l b , P 8 , k l b , P 3 , k 3 0 . Round 37: P 8 , k2, yo, k l b , yo, k2 , p5, k2b, p l , tic, P 7 , tic, P 2 , k 3 0 . Round 38: P 8 , k3 , k l b , k3 , P 5 , k2b, P 2 , k l b , p8, k l b , P 2 , k 3 0 . Round 39: P 8 , k3 , yo, k l b , yo, k3 , p5, k2b, p2, tic, P 6 , trc, p2, k 3 0 . Round 40: P 8 , k4 , k l b , k4 , P 5 , k2b, p3, k l b , P 6 , k l b , P 3 , k 3 0 . Round 41: P 8 , ssk, k2 , k l b , k2 , k2tog, p5, k2b, p3, tic, m l k , p2tog, p2, trc, p3, k 3 0 . Round 42: P 8 , k3 , k l b , k3 , P 5 , k2b, P 4 , k l b , tic, P 2 , k l b , P 4 , k 3 0 . Round 43: P 8 , ssk, k l , k l b , k l , k2tog, p5, k2b, p4, tic, tic, trc; slip the last 3 sts to the 1 needle and ignoring the third one (farthest from the 1 needle tip), pass the first st over the second, making one out of two. Pass the sts back to the r needle; mlp , p4, k 3 0 . Round 44: P 8 , k2 , k l b , k2, P 5 , k2b, P 5 , k l b , P 8 , k 3 0 .

Round 45: P 8 , ssk, k l b , k2tog, p5, k2b, p5, yo, k l b , yo, p8, k 3 0 . Round 46: P 4 , k l b , p3, k l , k l b , k l , P 3 , P 2 t o g , k l b , m l k , k l b , P 5 , k l , k l b , k l , P 8 , k 3 0 . Round 47: P 3 , trc, p3, edd, p3, trc, k2b, p5, k l , yo, k l b , yo, k l , p8, k 3 0 . Repeat rounds 2 4 - 4 7 over and over again, but first, you M U S T read the next section.

The Heel: Are we there yet? Put your sock on and wave your foot around, admiring the leafy tendrilly vine, especially the way it meanders from side to side as it grows greenly up your foot, Once you need just 4" (or 4 0 % of your foot length) more to reach the right length, it's time to begin the gusset increases. I will trust you to keep the leaf and tendril pattern moving up the foot without my telling you how. Round 1 : On sole needle, k 1, inc by k l b in loop of st beneath that first st, k 2 8 , inc 1 by k l b in loop of st beneath last st on needle, k l . Leaf and tendril pattern continues on instep needle. Round 2: Knit across sole needle. Leaf and tendril pattern continues on instep needle. Repeat these two rounds 14 more times (the sts in between the increases will go up by 2 each inc round). You should have 6 0 sts on the sole needle. The increased sts have built up a triangle (gusset) on each side of the sole, while your leaves and tendrils have been growing on up your foot.

Turning the Heel: The sole needle now holds, in this order: 15 gusset sts, 3 0 sole sts, and 15 gusset sts. You will be moving the gusset sts to the ends of the instep needle, 15 to either end, so just 3 0 sts remain on the sole needle. These sts will become the turned heel, and then the heel flap (remember, we're working upside down). While the instep needle waits, you will work short rows back and forth, wrapping as you go, to create a rounded heel turn: Row 1 : K the first 15 gusset sts and transfer them to the instep needle. An easy way to accom­plish this is to use some of the instep needle's extra cable by pulling the needle towards you, letting about 1 0 " of the cable loop out of the way, and knit the 15 sts. Then pull the loose cable back into the line of 4 5 sts. The other 15 gusset sts may be transferred without knitting. On your remaining 3 0 sole sts, si 1, k 2 8 , slip and wrap next st, turn.

37

Row 2: S I 1, p 2 7 , slip and wrap next st, turn. Rows 3 - 16: Repeat rows 1 and 2 , knitting or purling one fewer st than the row before, until row 16, when you si 1, p i 3 , slip and wrap next st, turn. Do you have 3 0 sts? Good.

Heel Flap and Gusset Gobbling: At this point it is wise to work in heel stitch for durabil­ity (you may actually begin the heel stitch on the 3 0 sole sts as much as 1 " before the heel turn), and this stitch is simple: on knit side, ( k l , s l l ) , repeat until end. On p side, p all sts. The only catch is that the edges may get a little dicey as you try to decide whether to follow the heel stitch pattern religiously or to gobble the gusset reli­giously. There is only one answer: gobble the gusset religiously. Row 1 : S I 1, k 14 , k all but last st on needle, knitting wraps with sts carefully as you go. K last st from left to right with wrap and with first st from other needle (nibbling your way up the gusset). Turn, (you have begun to build the "heel flap") Row 2: S I 1, p across all sts on needle, up until last one, purling wrap with sts as you go. S I last st with wrap and first st on other needle, revers­ing mount of that st. Turn. Row 3: K2tog from right to left. K until 1 st short of end of row, staying in heel st and correct­ing any wraps that still need to be k with their sts. K2tog (last st of this needle and first of other) from left to right. Repeat rows 2 and 3 until all gusset sts have been knitted up. You are now released from the purgatory of rows back into the heaven of rounds. You should have a total of 6 0 sts on both needles.

Leg: Abandon the heel stitch for straight knitting on back of the leg and continue with the Leaf and Tendril pattern on the front of the leg. Continue knitting across all back leg stitches until you are 1 " above the heel stitches.

Leafy Ribbing starts on back leg needle: Round 1 : *K9, k into the front and back of the next st; repeat from *; k lO , These 2 increases give you 3 2 sts on this needle. Begin Leaflet Lace pattern: Round 2: *P 1 , k 3 , p2, k2 , p i , repeat from * twice, end p i , k3 , p i , work leaf and tendril

pattern on front needle. Round 3: *P1 , k l , yo, k l , yo, k l , p2, k2, p i , repeat from * twice, end p i , k l , yo, k l , yo, k l , p i , work leaf and tendril pattern on front needle. Rounds 4 and 5: * P 1 , k5 , p2, k2, p i , repeat from * twice, end p i , k5 , p i , work leaf and tendril pattern on front needle. Round 6: * P 1 , ssk, k l , k2tog, p2, k2, p i , repeat from * twice, end p i , ssk, k l , k2tog, p i , work leaf and tendril pattern on front needle. Round 7: same as Round 2. Round 8: P i , yo, cdd, yo, p2, k2, p i , repeat from * twice, end p i , yo, cdd, yo, p i , work leaf and tendril pattern on front needle. Repeat rounds 2 -8 until you finish the leaf and tendril pattern.

Finishing the Leaf and Tendril Pattern: When you have 4 whole leaves growing up the left side of the sock, pause. You will now con­tinue through round 4 5 of the repeat you are on, and then switch to the following final 2 0 rounds. Where you would go to round 4 6 , instead go to round 1 here: Round 1: P 8 , k l , k l b , k l , P 5 , k2tog, mlp , P 5 , k l , k l b , k l , p8. Round 2 : P 8 , cdd, p5, k l b , p6, k l , yo, k l b , yo, k l , P 8 . Round 3 : P 1 4 , k l b , P 6 , k2 , k l b , k2, p8. Round 4 : P 1 3 , trc, p6, k2, yo, k l b , yo, k2, p8. Round 5: P 1 3 , k l b , p7, k3 , k l b , k3 , p8. Round 6: P 1 2 , trc, p7, k3 , yo, k l b , yo, k3 , p8. Round 7: P 1 2 , k l b , p8, k4 , k l b , k4 , P 8 . Round 8: P I 1, trc, p8, ssk, k2, k l b , k2, k2tog, p8. Round 9: P I 1, k l b , p9, k3 , k l b , k3 , p8. Round 10: P I 1, yo, k l b , yo, p9, ssk, k l , k l b , k l , k2tog, p8. Round 1 1 . P I 1, k l , k l b , k l , p9, k2 , k l b , k2, p8. Round 12: P I 1, k l , yo, k l b , yo, k l , p9, ssk, k l b , k2tog, p8. Round 13 : P l l , k2 , k l b , k2 , P 9 , k l , k l b , k l , p8. Round 14 : P l l , k2 , yo, k l b , yo, k2, p9, cdd, p8. Round 15 : P l l , k3 , k l b , k3 , mlp , pi 7. Round 16 : P l l , ssk, k l , k l b , k l , k2tog, P 1 9 . Round 17: P l l , k2 , k l b , k2 , P 1 9 . Round 18 : P l l , ssk, k l b , k2tog, p i 9 . Round 19 : P l l , k l , k l b , k l , p l 9 . Round 2 0 : P l l , cdd, p i 9 .

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On the next several rounds, purl across the front needle and knit in Leafy Ribbing across the back leg needle until you complete a Round 8 of Leafy Ribbing. Now you may start Leafy Ribbing around the whole leg. You have 31 sts on the front leg needle, and 3 2 on the back leg needle. Starting with the front leg needle: Round 1 : P l , *k2, p2, k3 , p2, repeat from * five times, end k2 , p2, k3 , p l . Round 2: P l , *k2, p2, kl , yo, kl , yo , kl , p2, repeat from *five times, end k2, p2, k l , yo , kl , yo , kl , p 1. Rounds 3 and 4 : P l , *k2, p2, k5 , p2, repeat from * five times, end k2 , p2, k5 , p l . Round 5: P l , *k2, P 2 , ssk, k l , k2tog, p2, repeat from * five times, end k2 , p2, ssk, k l , k2tog, p l . Round 6: Same as Round 1. Round 7: P l , *k2, p2, yo, edd, yo, p2, repeat from * five times, end k2, p2, yo, edd, yo, p l . Repeat rounds 1-7 once.

Tubular Bind-off: Next to the invisible cast-on, this knitting technique brings me the most pure joy. The tubular bind-off, which can be described as an invisible bind-off, is a combina­tion of double-knitting, grafting, and pure genius. I suspect it has been invented and unvented numerous times. I assume you have overcome your graftophobia if you were previously afflicted; you will need this skill at the very end.

Here's how tubular bind-off works: you will increase every second stitch using whatever method you prefer; this will increase the stitches from 6 3 to 9 5 . Then you will double knit for three rows. Double knitting gives you two layers of knitting, one inside the other, growing out of the single layer of the leg, and connected at the top only by the needles. Never double knit be­fore? Relax, for it is a bit like the heel stitch, and I know you can do that. After double-knitting three rows, you'll graft the two layers together at the top, and abracadabra! No one will know if you started this sock at the top or toe, because the top has no apparent cast-on at all, or bind-off. Ready? Using the same size needle front and back, let's start. Round 1 : Increase 1 k st every second st, for a total of 9 4 after one round. If you are off by a few, that's quite all right, but you do need an even number. If you have a larger leg than aver­age, you might want to increase more than this.

Round 2: *k l , s l l with yarn in front, repeat from * until you have completed the round. Round 3 : *sll with yarn in back, p l , repeat from * until you have completed one round. Repeat these two rounds twice more. You now have an inner layer and an outer layer, joined at the bottom by the last of the leafy ribbing, and at the top by the needles. Now you will graft the top edges of the two layers together. If you slide a half dozen sts off a needle, you'll see them automatically separate into two layers and realize how natural it will be to join them by grafting. Do so with joy! This means you are done with this elegant sock, and are ready for the second one. And then . . . you can wear them.

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Appendix Special Tips and Techniques: the How, Why and Wherefore

Avoiding Gaping Gusset Corners: When you cross the space between gusset stitches and instep stitches, sometimes a hole will appear in the intersection. To avoid this unwanted ventilation, pick up a stitch in this corner and knit it twisted (through the back loop, or possibly the front, depending on how you picked it up). Then eliminate it by knitting it together with the adjacent gusset stitch on the next round.

Donkey ears are for donkeys, not sock toes: To avoid those little boxy corners on your grafted toes, slip the outermost stitch on each end of each needle over its nearest neighbor, eliminating four stitches which might have gone boxy on you. Now graft.

Financial Knitting Advice: Eat rice and beans for a week if you have to, but invest in enough pairs of Addi Turbo circular needles that you can pick just the right size for your feet and yarn. I recommend a pair of 2 4 " Addi Turbo circulars in sizes 1 , 2 , and 3 . If you buy six needles (two in each size), it will cost you about $ 5 5 , and you will be happy forevermore. Look upon them as a very portable and inexpensive loom, and just think: you are buying the best (knitting) loom on this planet! What a bargain.

If you're like me, you'll soon need more than two of each size, because you'll have several socks in progress at any given time. I like to keep a pair or two in mid foot for staff meetings, and others at an architecturally challenging stage, to work on in the stillness of my home. You'll probably settle on a favorite weight of yarn and needle size, so when you do, eat some more rice and beans and buy a few more of those needles.

Gauge-checking trick: Let 's say you have collected circular needles in sizes 1 , 2 , and 3 . You're about to embark on a new sock pattern, and want to be sure your gauge is correct. Many people knit a bit tighter in rounds than in rows, so you are best off taking your gauge in rounds. You can determine your gauge for one yarn on

three needle sizes simultaneously: Cast on 6 3 sts, and knit 2 1 sts on the size 1 , 2 1 on the size 2 , and 21 on the size 3 . Purl the 2 1 s t sts to mark the boundaries. Knit a few inches, then take the 20-st gauge for each size. It's worthwhile to keep a notebook for recording such things; so if you use that yarn again you'll know your gauge.

Graftophobia and how to cure it: Eor decades, I too suffered from the heartbreak of graftophobia, also known as the fear of grafting (Kitchener stitch). Suddenly last year, enough kinesthetic dendrites had sprouted in my brain from the mental stimulation of puzzling out knitting maneuvers, that I could graft perfectly without even thinking. Such a miracle may not befall you, but Lucy Neatby (a startlingly innovative fiber artist) has a trick you may use now: instead of grafting when you are done, join in waste yarn in a contrasting color and knit an inch or so. Then pull this extension inside the toe so that the stitches that still need grafting are not quite pulled in. You can see the path the yarn takes, and graft by following it. Then unravel the waste yarn, snug up your grafting, and know you are one step closer to a miracle happening in your brain like it did in mine. Check out Lucy's website (www.tradewindknits.com) for more details, illustrations, and much more.

Intarsia-in-the-round: I wish I could say this is easy and everyone should try it. It does work, and the two methods I describe are ingenious. However, I do not find it much fun, and I personally think duplicate stitch is fun. To work either intarsia method, you need to have some flat intarsia experience already.

The first method is a clever way of knitting back and forth in rows, yet forming a tube. Not exactly a seamless tube, as at the rear center you will have a seam of sorts. You join in a second main color strand of yarn at the center back, and each time you knit or purl to the center back, you pick up the other strand after twisting it around the one you just dropped. This allows you to knit in rows while making a tube, and because you are working in rows you can work intarsia just as you would on a flat piece. The back seam will be visible, but acceptable.

The second method is mind-boggling. On the first round, you knit around without a care in the world, doing all the usual intarsia moves. On the

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second round, you knit around with the main color, but slip all the other colors while stranding the main color past the slipped stitches. Then you slip the main color stitches and either turn the work around and purl the other colors or knit them back backwards. You must twist colors at all intersections, of course. Repeating these two "rounds" will place the yarns where you need them, although you may go batty.

If you want to try either of these methods, I recommend you read more about them in one of the following books: the first technique on page 6 0 in Elaine Rowley's Socks Socks Socks; the second technique on page 8 4 in Priscilla Gibson-Roberts' Ethnic Socks and Stockings: a Compendium of Eastern Design and Technique,

Invisible or Provisional Cast-on: Mastering this utterly simple technique allows you to start your knitting anywhere. You can knit from both sides of the cast-on. Barbara Walker, whom I think of as the Einstein of knitting, describes it beautifully in Knitting from the Top, while Meg Swanson calls it "twisty-wrap" and makes it clear in Meg Swanson's Knitting. It is described in any comprehensive knitting reference. One morning I awoke at 1:30, invited by my knitting mind to meet the child of a marriage between invisible cast-on and heel-turning. This child's name is Turned Toe© , and she can be found in the Leaf and Tendril sock pattern, or the Cable-Top pattern. Turned Toe© is a dear.

Some small but important tips on invisible cast-on: Use a waste yarn of the same size, in a clearly contrasting color. Use smooth, not textured, yarn, for ease of removal. The first side you knit will seem normal, with all stitches correctly mounted. The other side, however, will have stitches mounted alternately correctly and incorrectly. With a circular needle, simply correct them one by one, and when you are done the needle will have rotated nicely back into position as if the stitches had been mounted properly all along.

Keeping Track of Instructions: Make photocopies of pattern instructions or charts, enlarging them if helpful. Then use five colors of highlighters to color lines so you can easily glance at the page and focus on a blue, green, yellow, purple, or pink line. Put the colored page on a metal copyholder and mark the edge of the current line with a magnet.

Perfectly matched slip stitch edges on heel flaps: Always knit the final stitch of a row, and always slip the first stitch as if to purl. Think about it: you are treating the ends of the rows identically! And guess what? You will get identical chained edges, just right for precise gusset stitch picking-up.

washing your socks: Are you really going to walk all over your knitting by wearing i t? Of course you are. When your beautiful socks need washing, you have several options. You can throw them in the washer and dryer (most socks in this book are knit of machine-washable wool), or you can make them last a little longer by avoiding all that excessive agitation and washing them by hand. Just soak the socks for ten minutes in warm water and a little detergent, then swish them around until they look clean, and rinse them in several changes of water with a little bit of vinegar. You may press the water out of them with a dry towel, or spin them nearly dry in the washing machine. Then lay the socks out in a footish shape and soon they will be ready for another wearing.

Which row am I on? The latest brain research (done while I am knitting) reveals that the brain stores numbers in one dinky drawer with holes in the bottom, while sensory images get a spacious guest room with sauna. Try this: Replace the numbers one through ten with images saturated with as many the senses as possible. For instance, imagine one slice of green-skinned, juice-dripping, tangy Pippin apple and two newborn robins peeping and tottering in a nest littered with broken blue eggshells, the smell of raw eggs perfuming the air. Use these if you like, but then come up with your own ideas, for you will remember them best if they arise from you. Once you have vivid sensory images for the numbers from one to ten, rehearse them until they are second nature. Then, when you are knitting eight rows or rounds and want to remember which one you are on, conjure up the sensory image for one while knitting the first one. Conjure up the image for two for the second round, and so on. The sensory images will root temporarily in your consciousness, for they are rich with meaning, unlike numbers which vanish because of being so generic. If you need to go beyond ten, combine an additional sensory image with the others to mark

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the decade: hot sun for teens, full moon for 2 0 ' s , rain for 3 0 s , etc. There is no limit to this kind of sensory place-holding!

All this intense mental imagination means that you are generating thousands of new dendrite fingers in your brain, which means that more and more connections are being made and you are becoming smarter while you knit. I'm not making this up, it's true.

Sources for Yarns, Needles, and Other Goodies:

Your Local Yarn Store - Start here! They need your business, have knowledge to share, and because of their presence, new knitters are born. Many knit shops are happy for you to sit down and knit for a while - a good respite from a busy day. Ask them to order what you need, if they don't have it. For most of the yarns in this book, see the next entry.

Skacel Collection, Inc. - P.O. Box 8 8 1 1 0 , Seat t le , WA, 9 8 1 3 8 - 2 1 1 0 . ( 2 5 3 ) 8 5 4 - 2 7 1 0 . Skacel offers both yarns and Addi Turbo needles, which are not only my favorite but seem to be the unquestionable favorite of nearly every serious knitter I know. They can tell you where the nearest shop is that carries this book, the yarns for the socks, and their needles.

Schoolhouse Press - 6 8 9 9 Cary Bluff, Pittsville, Wisconsin, 5 4 4 6 6 , www.schoolhousepress.com, 1 -800-YOU-KNIT. Meg Swanson carries a plethora of knitting books, including just about every sock book in print, plus a magnetic row finder holder and a "knitting thimble ", a small device that tames multiple yarns for color-stranding.

Showers of Flowers Yarn Shop - 6 9 0 0 W. Colfax Avenue, Lakewood, CO, 8 0 2 1 5 . 1-800-8 2 5 - 2 5 6 9 , sos@interfold.com, or www.showersofflowers.com One of the world's largest and friendliest yarn stores. They carry everything you need to make any sock in this book (and have a whole section of the store devoted to sock knitting!). Sharon Sturm, the owner, shares her story and vision on the store's large website.

My Favorite Knitting Technique References:

Buss, Katharina. Big Book of Knitting. New York: Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., 1 9 9 9 . Translated from the original German.

Hiatt, June Hemmons. The Principles of Knitting: Methods and techniques of Hand Knitting. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1 9 8 8 . / hear June is working on a new edition; the original is out of print. I would love to have a copy of this book. If you have an extra, let me know!

Stanley, Montse. Knitter's Handbook: A comprehensive guide to the principles and techniques of handknitting. New York: Readers Digest, 1 9 9 3 . Very visual.

Swanson, Meg. Meg Swanson's Knitting: 30 Designs for Handknitting. Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press, 1 9 9 9 . In addition to sweater and vest patterns that will fill your daydreams, Meg includes several elegantly fitted, fancy sock patterns and a gourmet buffet of a chapter on techniques.

The Editors of Vogue Knitting Magazine. Vogue Knitting. New York: Pantheon Books. 1 9 8 9 . A knitting bible, with photos or drawings of almost every move you might ever want to make with a needle and yarn.

Walker, Barbara G. Knitting from the Top. Pittsville, Wisconsin: Schoolhouse Press, 1 9 9 6 . One of the most brilliant and practical knitting books ever written, long out of print, reprinted by Schoolhouse Press. Also see her three Knitting Treasuries for a trove of stitches for designing your own socks. A Fourth Treasury is on its way to the printer, published by Schoolhouse Press.

Williams, Joyce. Latvian Dreams: Knitting from Weaving Charts. Pittsville, Wisconsin: Schoolhouse Press, 2 0 0 0 . Joyce Williams also reveals two-circular needle knitting, shares her own ingenious sock techniques, and charts enough designs to keep you knitting for eons.

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Zimmerman, Elizabeth. Knitter's Almanac. New York: Dover, 1 9 7 4 . Buy all of Elizabeth's books before you buy mine! She led the way for me and many others. You will swear she's sitting at your kitchen table, her needles clicking, her down-to-earth advice flowing like music, for her books are so immediate, personal, and brilliant.

Treasured Traditional Sock Collections

Buchanan, Rita, and Robson, Deborah. Socks: A Spin-Off Special Publication for Knitters and Spinners. Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press, 1 9 9 4 . Unusual and intriguing designs.

Bush, Nancy. Folk Socks: The History and Techniques of Handknitted Footwear. Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press, 1 9 9 4 . Nancy has a new sock book coming out. Her books are masterpieces of scholarship, historical stewardship, and creativity.

Bush, Nancy. Folk Knitting in Estonia. Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press, 1 9 9 9 .

Gibson-Roberts, Priscilla A. Ethnic Socks and Stockings: a Compendium of Eastern Design and Technique. Sioux Falls, South Dakota: X R X , Inc., 1 9 9 5 . Priscilla, a wise curator of ethnic socks and techniques, also has a new sock book coming out. Lucky us.

Ligon, Linda. Homespun Handknit: Caps, Socks, Mittens, and Gloves. Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press, 1 9 8 7 . / / this goes out of print, you'll probably wish you had it.

Pence, Katherine. ...And a Time to Knit Stockings. Fort Wayne, Indiana: Pence Design Works, 1 9 9 7 . A uniquely bound piece of art, exquisite to hold and work from.

Rowley, Elaine. Socks Socks Socks. S ioux Falls, South Dakota: X R X , Inc, 1 9 9 9 . Whew! Socks to knit, socks to inspire, and even a sock to eat (knit of licorice ropes).

Vogue Knitting Socks. New York: Butterick Publishing Co., 1 9 9 9 . Little and good.

Interested in additional patterns and techniques?

You may contact Cat to arrange a workshop, or to purchase additional single patterns

designed for the two-circular needle method. Contact her by email at cat@rockisland.com, or write her at: RO. Box 2 4 6 3 , Friday Harbor, WA, 9 8 2 5 0 .

About the author

Cat vividly remembers the moment she learned to tie a knot in the end of sewing

thread at age six. S h e was flooded with joy and the glorious realization: "Now I can make something!" A few summers later, while the family was camping on a sunny river bank, she took a break from chasing bluebelly lizards long enough for her mother to teach her to knit. Being a contrary child, Cat insisted on knitting differently than either her mother or her grandmother, who later helped with the lessons. You may have noticed in the photos that Cat holds the yarn in her left hand, Continental style. Even if you knit Continental style, you may hold the yarn differently, since Cat's method is the result of her rascal nature. Regardless of how you hold your yarn, with the right or left hand, pick or wrap, your socks will come out just fine.

Cat has earned a living as a textile artist off and on since high school, was one of the world's most sought after bear artists in the 1 9 8 0 s (her bears, known as Catherine Bordi Bears, are in museums and private collections all over the world), and has written several books. S h e currently teaches humanities, creative writing, knitting, and Math Olympiad to students at Friday Harbor Middle School on S a n Juan Island, Washington. S h e is also an active member of the archipelago's textile guild.

Cat's cat, Polly S . Dactylus, has extra toes on each paw, and may become the first cat ever to learn to knit (socks, of course). S h e offers her beautiful powder gray hair for spinning strands of yarn. Polly's canine sister, Persimmon Peaches, bites her own tail, spins around like a circular needle, and sheds her golden hairs beside Cat's spinning wheel.

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Abbreviations and Explanations

c d d : centered double decrease Sl ip two stitches as if to knit together (from left to right), knit one stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the knit stitch. The middle stitch will lie neatly on top.

k l b : knit one stitch through the back loop (twisted)

k2tog: knit two stitches together from left to right

k: knit

1: left

m l k : (make one knit) Pick up loop beneath the stitch you just knit, place loop on your left needle, and knit it.

m l p : (make one purl) Pick up loop beneath the next stitch, place loop on your left needle, and purl it.

p2tog: purl two stitches together from right to left

p : purl

p l b : purl one stitch through the back loop (twisted)

r : right

S S k : With yarn in back, slip two stitches separately as if to knit. Insert left needle from left to right through front loops of both stitches and knit them together.

S S p : With yarn in front, slip two stitches separately to right needle as if to knit. Replace stitches on left needle. Insert right needle from left to right through back loops of both stitches and purl them together.

t i c : (twisted left cross) Use a cable needle or your own dexterity to switch the first stitch with the second, which crosses behind the first stitch. The first stitch is knit through the back loop (twisted). In the Bavarian Twisted St i tch design, sometimes the second stitch will present as a purl and you will knit it. Sometimes it will present as a knit and you will purl it. Study the chart and key to see how this goes. In the Leaf and Tendril design, the twisted stitch is always traveling across a purl background, so you always purl the second stitch. S e e the bottom of page 3 4 for a trick for working a twisted left cross.

t r c : (twisted right cross) Use a cable needle or your own dexterity to switch the first stitch with the second, which crosses in front of the first stitch. The second stitch is knit through the back loop (twisted). In the Bavarian Twisted St i tch design, sometimes the first stitch will present as a purl and you will knit it. Sometimes it will present as a knit and you will purl it. Study the chart and key to see how this goes. In the Leaf and Tendril design, the twisted stitch is always traveling across a purl background, so you always purl the first stitch. S e e the bottom of page 3 4 for a trick for working a twisted right cross.

s i 1 : slip one stitch

yo: yarn over

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