NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL BILBAO TO LISBON APRIL 27 – MAY 16, 2018 TOUR LEADER: DR JENI RYDE

Overview Northern Spain feels like a country apart, and in many ways, it has been. In this region, the presence of the Moors, who influenced Spain for eight centuries, was significantly shorter and some regions, like Asturias, were never conquered at all. As a result, most of the cultural influences are Northern European and some of the finest and best preserved pre-Romanesque, Romanesque and Gothic art and architecture can be found here. We see churches and monasteries inspired by the monks of Cluny and influenced by the thousands of pilgrims who came south to walk the Camino Francés to Santiago de Compostela, the final resting place of St James, the ‘Moor Slayer’. Spain’s close neighbour, Portugal, a separate nation since the twelfth century, provides an interesting study in similarity and contrast. With a language very similar to that of Galicia but a rich culture that has influence from the Moors, the Age of Discovery and Imperial wealth, Lisbon provides us with a smorgasbord of art, architecture and culture to finish our journey. Our 19-day tour travels from East to West in Spain, roughly adhering to the Pilgrim’s route: from the forward-thinking port city of Bilbao in the Basque country, to the inland cities of Burgos and León high on the plains of Castile. We cross the mountains outside picturesque Oviedo and travel on to the Atlantic via the green fields of Celtic Galicia, finishing our stay in Spain in the celebrated city of Santiago de Compostela, with its splendid Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture. From here we leave Galicia and journey south via the UNESCO world heritage listed city of Porto with its stately bridges and fine port wine, to Portugal’s fascinating and often overlooked capital, Lisbon.

Your tour leader Dr Jeni Ryde is a former Senior Lecturer at the University of Western Sydney, where she completed her PhD focusing on the Renaissance, heritage tourism and museology. She has a wide-ranging knowledge of European history, art and architecture, and has travelled extensively through Spain. Jeni speaks fluent Italian and Spanish.

'Northern Spain is special for me not least because it is less travelled in these times of

mass tourism. Highlights are luscious green landscapes, spectacular mountain ranges, dramatic architecture and outstanding art galleries. Add exceptional food and wine and an unhurried lifestyle to these gems and you have a perfect counterpoint to Spain’s busier regions’

“Jeni was a great tour leader, knowledgeable – very impressive Spanish skills – energetic, enthusiastic. A fantastic asset to Academy Travel.” Feedback from a tour participant, May 2016.

NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL BILBAO TO LISBON

Tour dates: April 27- May 16, 2018

Tour leader: Dr Jeni Ryde

Tour Price: $8,950 per person, twin share

Single Supplement: $2,150 for sole use of double room

Booking deposit: $500 per person

Recommended airline: Emirates

Maximum places: 20

Itinerary: Bilbao (3 nights), Burgos (2 nights), Leon (2 nights), Oviedo (3 nights), Santiago (3 nights), Porto (1 night), Lisbon (5 nights)

Date published: August 16, 2017

Enquiries and bookings

For further information and to secure a place on this tour please contact Kathy Wardrop at Academy Travel on 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email kathy@academytravel.com.au

This tour is run in association with ADFAS Travel

Tour Highlights

GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, BILBAO In 1991, the Basque government commissioned Canadian-American architect, Frank Gehry, to build a work to enliven Bilbao’s decrepit port area. The result was a gallery of contemporary art that has been celebrated by critics and the public alike. The huge exhibition space boasts a permanent and a rotating exhibit collection, but the real draw is the building itself, with its now famous titanium curves.

THE BODEGA YSIOS WINERY In the world-renowned Rioja wine region, the Bodega Ysios is a ‘temple dedicated to wine’. The only winery to be designed by architect Santiago Calatrava, it has an aluminium wave of a roof, inspired by Gaudí. The building has the rugged Sierra de Cantabria as a backdrop and compliments the scenery perfectly, creating a dialogue between the construction and nature.

THE PILGRIMS TRAIL Our itinerary loosely follows the second half of the Camino Francés, which ends at the burial place of the apostle St James, Santiago de Compostela. The cities of Burgos and León feature churches, monasteries and cathedrals which sprung up in the Middle Ages to service the pilgrims. Close to Santiago we walk a section of the trail and meet pilgrims who are close to completing a trek of some 800kms.

PRE-ROMANESQUE CHURCHES The term Pre-Romanesque refers to the architecture of Spain and Portugal after the Classical age and before the Romanesque. On the outskirts of Oviedo, we visit three well preserved churches, dating from the 9th Century, which tell of over a millennium of worship. Set at the foot of the Naranco mountain, the countryside sets off their simplicity and austere design.

PORTUGESE AZULEJOS As far back as the 13th Century, the Portugese developed the art of using tin-glazed ceramic tilework to decorate their buildings. These exquisite tiles, or azulejos, painted predominantly in a blue hue, are a memorable feature of cities like Lisbon, Porto and Sintra. In Lisbon, we visit the National Tile Museum and can admire a work of some 1300 tiles which depicts the city of Lisbon prior to the 1755 earthquake.

Detailed itinerary Included meals are shown with the symbols B, L and D.

FRIDAY APRIL 27 Bilbao

Our tour starts in Bilbao today. We recommend taking an early evening flight from Barcelona to Bilbao with Vueling airlines which connects with flights arriving from Australia. The group airport transfer will coincide with this flight. If you wish to arrive prior to the tour to recover from jetlag, we recommend a few nights in Barcelona. After settling in to our hotel just across from the Guggenheim, we meet for a welcome drink in hotel reception and then walk to dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight Bilbao (B, D)

Saturday April 28 Guggenheim and casco viejo

Today we explore the striking Guggenheim museum by Frank Gehry. In 1991 the Basque government commissioned Gehry to build a work to enliven Bilbao’s decrepit port area and the result was a work that has been celebrated by critics and the general public alike. Mid-afternoon your tour leader will lead a walking tour along the Nervión river to the Casco Viejo (old heart of the city) via the famous Calatrava bridge. Overnight Bilbao (B)

Sunday April 29 San Sebastián

This morning we visit Bilbao’s renowned Museum of Fine Arts before an excursion by coach to discover the picturesque resort town of San Sebastián. We sample some of the famed local tapas before exploring the centre on foot with a local guide. After some free time to walk along the waterfront of the famed Bahia de la Concha, we join our coach trip back to Bilbao admiring the sculpture of Eduardo Chillida on the way. Overnight Bilbao (B, L)

MONDAY April 30 La Rioja - To Castilla-Leon

Departing the Basque country, we head by coach to the wine growing region of La Rioja. We stop in Laguardia for coffee, a medieval walled city perched on a rocky outcrop and have time to explore here before a visit to the contemporary architect Santiago Calatrava’s extraordinary Bodega Ysios winery. This impressive building, with its Gaudí inspired roof and superb mountain backdrop, is an excellent location for our first wine tasting. Lunch will be a typical bodega (winery) lunch at a smaller more intimate family owned vineyard. We arrive at Burgos in the late afternoon, our destination for the next two nights. Overnight Burgos (B, L)

Tuesday may 1 Explore Burgos

Today is a public holiday in Spain and Burgos has a festive atmosphere. We set off on foot to explore the historic centre of a

Above: Louise Bourgeois' Spider, Maman, stands greets visitors to the Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao; and the beautiful resort town of San Sebastián

Below: wine barrels in the extraordinary Bodega Ysios winery

city at the heart of Spain’s history and a principle crossroads of the Camino de Santiago. Amongst other sites we pause outside the Casa del Cordόn, where Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabella of Castille, the ‘Catholic Monarchs’, met with Colombus and endorsed his voyages to the New World, and the world heritage Gothic cathedral, built on the pilgrim’s route and inspired by the cathedrals of Paris and Reims. In the afternoon, we suggest you make a reservation to enjoy one of the many fine restaurants and watch the locals at play. You might like to sample the hearty local specialty, “Lechazo”, suckling lamb. In the early evening, we gather for a talk in the hotel. Overnight Burgos. (B)

Wednesday may 2 pilgrim Route and roman mosaics

Departing Burgos for Leόn we witness sections of the Camino from our coach, passing pilgrims with their iconic staffs and scallop shells tied to their packs. We pause at Frόmista to admire its eleventh century Romanesque church with fine carved capitals, built for the devotion of passing pilgrims. Closer to León, we stop at the Roman Villa of Olmeda where we can view superb Roman mosaics; hidden for centuries under the rural landscape. On arriving at our hotel, the iconic landmark of the Parador de León and our base for the next two nights, we have time to explore its museum before dinner at Los Delirios, an experimental and highly regarded local restaurant. Overnight Leόn (B, D)

Thursday may 3 Explore Leon

Today we enjoy a walking tour of the well preserved medieval centre of Leόn. Our first stop will be the glorious French-style Gothic cathedral with its fine carvings and huge rose windows. Widely considered the finest Gothic building in Spain, it has earned its nickname, the ‘House of Light’. We also stop at the Pantheon of San Isodoro to relish some of the best-preserved Romanesque murals in Spain. After lunch- we suggest tapas in the Barrio Húmedo, or ‘wet quarter’- there is free time to further explore the town: either the Archaeological museum or the Museum of Contemporary Art. Overnight Leόn (B)

Friday may 4 To Asturias

Today we head over the mountains to the enchanting city of Oviedo, our destination for the next three nights. After a break for lunch, we explore the old town on foot, pausing to watch the peacocks roaming the Campo de San Francisco, and to delight in the well-tended parks and squares lined with Baroque palaces. We enjoy an early evening meal in the Bulevar de la Sidra, ‘cider boulevard’, a superb place to people watch and marvel at the waiters pouring this local speciality, in the traditional way – from a great height. Overnight Oviedo (B, D)

SATURDAY MAY 5 The Picos de Europa

For some of Spain’s finest mountain scenery we take a day trip to the dramatic Picos de Europa, one of Spain’s most visited

Above: the Gothic Cathedral of Saint Mary in Burgos; a mural in the Pantheon of San Isodoro, Leόn

Below: the stunning Picos de Europa National Park

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National Parks. We take the spectacular drive up to the Lakes of Covodonga and enjoy a rustic lunch in a mountain refuge. There is the option of a short walk around the lakes in the company of a local guide (good walking shoes required as the terrain is sometimes uneven). Overnight Oviedo (B, L)

SUNDAY MAY 6 Relax in Oviedo

The morning is set aside to survey the beautiful ninth century ‘pre-Romanesque’ architecture of the churches on the outskirts of Oviedo, many of which have been granted UNESCO world heritage. Set at the foot of the surrounding mountains the countryside sets off their simplicity and austere design. The afternoon is free to relax before we meet for a talk and an aperitif in the hotel. Overnight Oviedo (B)

MONDAY MAY 7 Into galicia

We leave the hotel early today to drive the last leg of the Camino route to Santiago de Compostela. En route we visit Castro de Viladonga, an excavated Celtic village over 1500 years old, with an interesting museum attached. We stop for lunch in Lugo, the only city in the world still surrounded by fully intact Roman walls and work up an appetite by walking the fortifications – over 2 kilometres of them if you wish to do the full circuit. On arrival in Santiago we check into our historic hotel, just off the main square. Tonight, we enjoy fine tapas at Abastos 2.0, a cutting-edge extension of the local market which uses excellent regional produce. Overnight Santiago (B, D)

TUESDAY MAY 8 Santiago de Compostela

Today we explore the beautiful urban area of Santiago de Compostela and witness the emotion of the pilgrims arriving at the cathedral after a journey of over 800 kilometres. The Portico de la Gloria, the main facade, has carvings of 200 figures referring to the Apocalypse, and St James welcomes the pilgrims to their final destination. In the afternoon, there is the option of a leisurely walk along a pretty section of the Camino just outside Santiago. Overnight Santiago (B)

Wednesday may 9 The Atlantic coast

On our last full day in Spain we take an excursion to the beautiful coastline of the Rias Baixas (low estuaries), an area highly renowned for its albariño wine and seafood. We enjoy a wine tasting at the stately home of Pazo de Rubianes, and a walk through their camellia gardens before a leisurely lunch at the excellent seafood restaurant D’Bertos. After lunch, we take a stroll along the coast to view the mussel platform farms, grouped into small cooperatives, before returning to our hotel. Overnight Santiago (B, L)

Above: monuments of Oviedo - our group enjoying San Miguel de Lillo all to themselves Below: apostles on the Portico de la Gloria welcome pilgrims to their final destination

Thursday may 10 INTO PORTUGAL

Departing Galicia, we head south into Portugal and stop at Porto for the night, a world heritage listed site and nicknamed the ‘City of Bridges’. We take a short cruise along the Douro River and stop for a port tasting at the prestigious Ferreira cellars. Dinner tonight is at a popular restaurant close to our hotel. Overnight Porto (B,D)

Friday may 11 porto

This morning we do a walking tour of the interior of Porto away from the river, stopping at the rail station with its vast tile mosaics and looking into the exquisite Lello bookshop – thought to have been the inspiration for part of the Harry Potter books. Leaving in the early afternoon for Lisbon we check into our hotel and eat in a nearby restaurant. Overnight Lisbon (B, D)

Saturday may 12 Belém

This morning we pay homage to the Golden Age of Discovery and explore the bairro (borough) of Belém. Our touring commences at Belém Tower, a 16th century fortification commissioned by King John II at the mouth of the Tagus River and which formed a vital part of Lisbon’s defences. We continue up the river to the Discovery Monument, celebrating the location where explorers departed to the Far East to open up important trade routes. Nearby, is the Jerónimos Monastery with its superb Manueline cloisters, where seafarers came to pray before leaving or entering port. After free time for lunch we visit the Berardo Collection Museum which houses an extraordinary collection of abstract, surrealist and pop art amassed by Portuguese billionaire, José Berardo. In the early evening, there is a talk in the hotel on the history of Portugese decorative tiles, or azulejos. Overnight Lisbon (B)

Sunday may 13 LAPA

Our first visit today is to one of Europe’s great unsung treasure houses, the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, a fine private art collection featuring works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Monet, Van Dyke and Renoir. This is followed by an excursion to the Tile Museum to view its exquisite collection of azulejos, dating from the 15th century. The museum is housed in the monastic buildings of the Madre de Deus Convent whose interiors are amongst the most magnificent in the city. We finish the day with a performance of Fado in a local restaurant, a Portuguese musical genre characterized by its mournful tunes and lyrics. Overnight Lisbon (B, D)

Monday may 14 Alfama

We take an iconic yellow tram up to Alfama to view the Castle of São Jorge and to enjoy its outstanding views over the city. The

Above: the old town of Porto on the Douro River; Belém Tower stands guard at the entrance to Lisbon Harbour

Below: Rembrandt’s Pallas Athena, ca 1657, in the the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian

Hotels Hotels have been selected principally for their central location and 4* rating.

Bilbao, Hotel Mirό (2 nights) www.mirohotelbilbao.com/en/

Burgos, Hotel AC Burgos (2 nights) https://www.marriott.com.au/hotels/travel/rgsbu-ac-hotel-burgos/

Leόn, Hotel NH Plaza Mayor de Leόn (2 nights) www.nh-hoteles.es/hotel/nh-collection-leon-plaza-mayor

Oviedo, Hotel Campoamor (3 nights) www.hotelcampoamoroviedo.com/

Santiago, Hotel San Francisco Monumento (3 nights) www.sanfranciscohm.com/2015/

Porto, Hotel Pestana Vintage (1 night) www.pestana.com/en/hotel/pestana-porto

Lisbon, Bessahotel Liberdade (5 nights) www.lisbon.bessahotel.com/en-gb/hotel-liberdade.aspx

citadel dates from the 6th century when it was fortified by the Romans but later served as a Moorish royal residence until captured by Portugal’s first king, Alfonso Henriques in 1147. From here we meander down through the labyrinthine Moorish bairro of Alfama, a truly emblematic part of the city. Alfama was largely spared in the earthquake of 1755 and is still a maze of narrow streets and steep steps, flower-laden iron balconies and small squares. Before pausing for free time, we visit the Núcleo Arqueológico, an extraordinary archeological site with remains dating from the Iron Age, hidden under a modern-day bank. Overnight Lisbon (B)

Tuesday may 15 Sintra

Sintra is a unique combination of natural mountain beauty and fairytale palaces. On our full day trip, we first visit the Palacio de los Marqueses, followed by the National Palace of Sintra. The National Palace is easily distinguished by its two large conical chimneys, while the rest of the building consists of manueline, gothic and moorish architectural styles. Inside, a series of interconnecting courtyards, galleries and corridors join a cohesive set of rooms many decorated with magnificent azulejos. We enjoy a farewell lunch in Sintra at the Palacio Seteais before our final visit to the Convent of the Capuchos. Seeming to emerge from the surrounding woodland the Franciscan convent’s philosophy of austerity and poverty is shown by the architectural and decorative simplicity of the tiny cells carved out of the rock. Overnight Lisbon (B,L)

Wednesday may 16 Depart

The tour concludes this morning after breakfast. Airport transfers are provided for anyone who has booked their flights with Academy Travel. (B)

Above: the iconic yellow trams of the Alfama, Lisbon Below: a scene of Lisbon Harbour from the unique collection of decorative azulejos in the Lisbon Tile Museum; the fairytale Palace da Pena in Sintra

Tour Price The tour price is $8,950 per person, twin share (land content only). The supplement for a single room is $2,150 per person. A non-refundable deposit of $500 per person is required to secure a place on the tour.

Tour Inclusions Included in the tour price 19 nights’ accommodation in carefully selected four star

hotels All breakfasts, plus lunches and dinners as stated Land travel by air-conditioned coach Extensive background notes and lectures on tour Services of a qualified and experienced tour leader

throughout tour All entrance fees to sites mentioned on itinerary Qualified local guides where appropriate Tips for all services included in the itinerary

Not included International air fares, taxes and surcharges (see below) Travel insurance Meals not mentioned in itinerary Expenses of a personal nature

Air travel OPTIONS The tour price quoted is for land content only. International flights from Australia to Barcelona and the domestic flight to Bilbao at the start of the tour are not included in the price. We suggest you fly Emirates into Barcelona and out of Lisbon at the end. The leg from Barcelona to Bilbao is with Vueling Airlines. Please contact us for a full range of airfare options, with these or other airlines. Transfers between airport and hotel are included for all passengers booking their flights through Academy Travel. These may be group or individual transfers.

Enquiries & bookings For further information and to secure a place on this tour please contact Kathy Wardrop at Academy Travel on 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email kathy@academytravel.com.au

Weather on Tour Temperatures are mild in Northern Spain in May, ranging from evening lows of around 7 to maxima of 16-20 degrees during the day – very agreeable for travel. You should expect rain for several days of the tour, but not enough to interrupt the tour program. Lisbon is further south and will be generally warmer and sunnier with temperatures ranging from 14-24 degrees.

Fitness Requirements of THIS tour

GRADE THREE

It is important both for you and for your fellow travellers that you are fit enough to be able to enjoy all the activities on this tour. To give you an indication of the level of physical fitness required to participate on our tours, we have given them a star grading. Academy Travel’s tours tend to feature extended walking tours and site visits, which require greater fitness than coach touring. We ask you to carefully consider your ability to meet the physical demands of the tour.

Participation criteria for this tour

This Grade Three tour is among our most physically demanding. To participate on this tour, you should be able to comfortably undertake up to seven hours per day, over several days. Activities may include travelling long distances, walking on difficult terrain, climbing stairs, embarking and disembarking trains and/or boats, exposure to high altitudes and long days of touring. These tours may include one night stops and early starts.

You should be able to: keep up with the group at all times walk for 5-7 kilometres at a moderate pace with only

short breaks stand for a reasonable length of time in galleries and

museums tolerate varying climatic conditions such as humidity and

heat a reasonable level of physical and respiratory fitness tolerate a diet that can be significantly different from a

typical Australian diet, and where some dietary requirements cannot be met

walk up and down slopes negotiate steps and slopes on archaeological sites or

mountain paths, which are often uneven and unstable get on and off a large coach with steep steps, train or

boat unassisted, possibly with luggage move your luggage a short distance if required

A note for older travellers

We regret that we are not able to accept bookings on a Grade Three tours from people more than 80 years old, or with restricted mobility.