Skincare allergies and sensitivity: In-Cosmetics 2019 - Mintel · Although updated EU guidelines will dampen the influence of free-from claims, consumers will continue to check labels

JUNE 2019 | REPORT

SKINCARE ALLERGIES ANDSENSITIVITY: IN-COSMETICS 2019

This presentation on how allergies and sensitivity are changing the skincarecategory was created for In-Cosmetics, Paris, April 2019.

Jo Lawlor, Global BeautyAnalyst

1 © 2019 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel.

Table of ContentsSkin conditions and emotions ........................................................................................................... 3

[Graph] Europe: how eczema affects consumers, 2018 ...................................................................5

Sensitivity scale & smart skincare ................................................................................................... 10

Microbiome & neuroscience............................................................................................................ 12

360 approach through guidance and key actives............................................................................ 14

[Graph] Select markets: face/neck care NPD with natural & free-from ingredient claims*, 2015 vs

2018 ................................................................................................................................................ 15

https://clients.mintel.com/report/skincare-allergies-and-sensitivity-in-cosmetics-2019


Agenda

1Skin conditions and emotions

2Sensitivity scale & smart skincare

3Microbiome & neuroscience

4360 approach through guidance and key actives

Skin conditions and emotions



Sensitivity remains a global concern for women

Source: Pubmed research

The sensitivity cycleAn allergy or skin condition can sometimes start as a sensitivity and the two are directly linked.

Psoriasis: an overview• Affects 125 million people globally

• Symptoms present as scaling, bleeding, itching,swelling, burning, erythema and fatigue

• Often debilitating and painful

• Currently no cure

• Can dramatically affect mental health



Atopic dermatitis (eczema) is increasing• Most common inflamed skin

condition:

• Globally: affects up to 3% ofadults who suffer from chronicor relapsing itching

• France: for almost 10%, thecondition is severe

• Second skin disease after acne;15% of babies are affected and20% of under-7s

Source: American Academy of Dermatology; French Society of Dermato-Pediatrics

Eczema creates a high social and economic cost70% of patients are actively looking for new solutions.

% o

f re

spon

dent

s

Europe: how eczema affects consumers, 2018

7070

4545

3636

2828

1717

2323

Want newsolutions

Serioussymptoms

Sore or rough Itchy Cracked Do not havean optimistic

view

0%

20%

40%

60%

80%

Base: 1,189 patients with ezcemaSource: EFA (European Federation Allergy & Airways)



https://www.mg217.com/your-eczema/statistics/

http://www.leparisien.fr/vie-quotidienne/sante/l-eczema-nous-irrite-de-plus-en-plus-19-06-2017-7065339.php



Eczema and allergies are affecting children• 45% of parents of children aged

0-4 who buy BPC agree that it'shard to know what is safe fortheir children

• 20% of the world's childpopulation is affected byeczema

Base: 782 internet users aged 16+ who are parents of children aged 0-4 and have bought baby/children'spersonal care products in the last 12 monthsSource: Pub Med.gov/Lightspeed/Mintel

National Eczema Day in France provides family supportMore than 2.5 million people are affected in France.

Source: French Eczema Association



https://data.mintel.com/databook/920634/#Q8


https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25925336



Rosacea: an overview

Mayo Clinic

• Affects 415 million peopleglobally

• Presents as erythema, flushing,prickly skin, spider veins, mayburn with certain topicalproducts, inflamed papules andpustules.

Source: University of Copenhagen

Many consumers are living with a skin disease8 million consumers in the UK.

Source: British Skin Foundation/Allergy UK



Positive beauty can complement dermatology

IN THE US

40%

of adults have a greatdeal of confidence in the

scientific community

IN CHINA

30%

of adults with skinconditions don't take anymeasures and let their

skin condition heal on itsown

Base: US: 791 respondants; China: 2,637 internet users aged 20-49 who experienced skin conditionsSource: Pew Research Centre; KuRunData/Mintel

IN THE UK

70%

of people have visibleskin conditions orscars that directly

affect their confidence

Visible skin issues or scars trigger a lack ofconfidencePromote confidence through positive skin messaging.

Source: British Skin Foundation

IN FRANCE

76%

of women agree thatfeeling comfortable is

better than lookingperfect

Champion skin confidence over skinperfection"The most beautiful thing you can wear is confidence."

Blake Lively, Hollywood Actress

Base: 1,034 female internet users aged 16+Source: Lightspeed/Mintel



https://www.pewresearch.org/fact-tank/2019/03/22/public-confidence-in-scientists-has-remained-stable-for-decades/


https://www.britishskinfoundation.org.uk/

Customers are drawn to positive brands

https://clients.mintel.com/report/skincare-allergies-and-sensitivity-in-cosmetics-2019/16

Stress reduction is a way to target skin issuesWe are seeing brands emerge within the category that connect emotionally.

Peace for inflamed skin

The Intuitive Botanical Facial Mist from Austria is positioned as agentle, hydrating mist enriched with palo santo hydrosols and marulaand rosehip to bring peace to inflamed skin.

CBD to chill skin out

Code of Harmony Chill Gel Masque from the US is formulated with CBDand hemp seed extract, and has colloidal oat, allantoin and coconut tosoothe stressed-out skins.

Providing stress relief

Botaneira Purifying & Softening Mask is promoted for sensitive orallergy-prone skins and targets stress with lavender.






https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/6221609



Sensitivity scale & smart skincare

There is white space to scale sensitivityWhile brands focus on skinanalysis, there is a place forsensitivity to be graded byzone or severity.

Dermalogica Fitzpatrick Scale

Get personalL'Oreal has partnered with UBiome – the world's largest global microbiome database.

Smart skincare is leading the way



SK II Future X Smart Store Shanghai

Foreo Luna Fo Fo

Technology is developing emotional bonds

Source: La Roche Posay; Phillips; Bellabeat; Pastiche NZ



https://www.laroche-posay.us/my-skin-track-uv-3606000530485.html

https://www.firstderm.com/philips-first-derm-partnership/

https://www.bellabeat.com/collections/featured-products/products/leaf-chakra

https://www.pastiche-training.com/pdm-skin-diagnostic-device

Consumers seek AI to identify and avoid skin irritation triggersOpte device by P&G.

.

Source: P&G

Microbiome & neuroscience

Science is unlocking the mysteries of the microbiota andmicrobiomeAs research into skin bacteria is increasing, brands will discover new ways to tackle inflammation.

Source: Labskin



Microbiome skincare can provide relief

Prebiotic

La Roche Posay Prebiotic Care is formulated to repair an impairedbarrier function.

Probiotic

Probiotic Mineral Tonic is rich in lactobacillus to balance skin flora toirritated skin.

Adaptogen & hemp

Emerald Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Deep Moisture Glow Oil containsadaptogens such as reishi mushroom and ashwagandha and Cannabissativa seed oil to calm.

The sensitive skin mood influencerGivaudan has trademarked a pioneering newingredient called Sensityl discovered from amicroalgae.

Source: Givaudan






https://www.givaudan.com/

Neuroscience opens up new opportunitiesThe brain-skin axis ispowerful, and terms likepsychodermatology arestarting to gain interest.

Givaudan Disciple Miracle Drops

360 approach through guidance and key actives

Sensitive skin remains a concern for European consumers

IN FRANCE

43%

of women say they havesensitive skin

IN ITALY

48%

of women say they havesensitive skin

IN THE UK

32%

of men say they havesensitive skin

Base: female internet users aged 18+ (France: 1,034; Italy: 1,017); UK: 992 male internet users aged16+Source: Lightspeed/Mintel



http://reports.mintel.com/cdc/chart/?q=7af7649a1ab1b7d3471417c66cf64f09&answer=A11&answer=A12&answer=A10&country=2&country=3&country=4&country=1&country=5&vertical=2&gender=1

http://reports.mintel.com/cdc/chart/link/7af7649a1ab1b7d3471417c66cf64f09/?answer=A11&answer=A12&answer=A10&country=2&country=3&country=4&country=1&country=5&vertical=2&gender=1

https://data.mintel.com/databook/859283/#Q1a

Evolve the 'free-from' claim

Simple, Unilever

• Create powerful stories of added ingredients

• Promote skin benefits

• Clean beauty is an established expectation

Pair naturals with free-from claims in Western marketsAlthough updated EU guidelines will dampen the influence of free-from claims, consumers will continue tocheck labels for parabens, sulphates etc and avoid them.

% o

f la

unch

es

Select markets: face/neck care NPD with natural & free-from ingredient claims*, 2015vs 2018

Dec 2014-Nov 2015 Dec 2017-Nov 2018

UK US

Fran

ceIta

ly

Germ

any

Russia

Japan

South

Kore

a

China

0

10

5

15

* claims match all 'botanical/herbal', 'paraben-free', 'mineral oil/petroleum-free', 'sulphate/sulfate-free'Source: Mintel GNPD



https://knowledge.ulprospector.com/7603/pcc-eu-cosmetic-claims-updated-free-from-claims/

Clean, calming actives

Hemp/CBD, Matcha, Cica, Blue Tansy, Moringa, Turmeric, Buriti

360 skin fusion will triumph

Adaptogens, LED Mask, WellCo Super Elixir, Muse



Consumers still need guidanceEuropean consumers would like help and support when choosing skincare.

IN SPAIN

68%

of men agree thatsuncare brands should

offer education on how touse the products

IN ITALY

68%

of women aged 35-44agree that it's not always

clear what certainingredients in skincare

products do

IN THE UK

32%

of 16-24 year olds wouldlike help from an

assistant in store whenchoosing BPC products

Base: Spain: 2,000 internet users aged 16+; Italy: 1,017 female internet users aged 16+; UK: 2,000internet users aged 16+Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

Create skin sensitivity workshopsConsumers can be fearful of using skincare in case of reactions, so workshops can offer emotionalsupport.

Source: La Roche Posay

Tap into 360 wellness workshops



http://reports.mintel.com/cdc/chart/link/b7cd96a3e7c83eaa845620fb350ff63b/?answer=A22&answer=A24&answer=A23&country=2&country=3&country=4&country=1&country=5&vertical=2&gender=2&gender=3



http://reports.mintel.com/cdc/chart/link/9c367fee7d8e80b80f6828a648362102/?answer=A22&answer=A23&answer=A24&country=2&country=3&country=4&country=1&country=5&age=3&vertical=2&gender=3

http://reports.mintel.com/cdc/chart/link/9c367fee7d8e80b80f6828a648362102/?answer=A22&answer=A23&answer=A24&country=2&country=3&country=4&country=1&country=5&age=3&vertical=2&gender=3


Glow Bar Super Glowy

Source: Glow Bar

Meet the expertJo Lawlor

Global Beauty Analyst

Jo has 25 years’ experience working in beauty, spa, wellness andaesthetics in Europe, Asia, UAE, and the USA. As a trained Facialist,Makeup Artist and Beauty Therapist, Jo has designed treatments andtrained experts for brands such as Simple, Carol Joy London, and LizEarle. She has featured as an expert in Vogue and Elle, and on QVCBeauty.

Read more by this expert | Get in touch



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DisclaimerThis is marketing intelligence published by Mintel.The consumer research exclusively commissionedby Mintel was conducted by a Chinese licensedmarket survey agent (see Research MethodologyChina for more information).

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Skincare allergies and sensitivity: In-Cosmetics 2019 - Mintel · Although updated EU guidelines will dampen the influence of free-from claims, consumers will continue to check labels