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Skin PreparationsCold Cream

First Cold Cream Formula from Galen (170 AD)Purified Wax 1 PartOlive Oil 3-4 PartsRose Petals q.s.Water q.s.

Variations:

Water 5-37%Almond Oil 50-70%Beeswax 12-15% orMixed Beeswax and Spermaceti > 24%

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BPC 1948 Formula of a Cold Cream:(a) White Beeswax 18%(b) Almond Oil 61%(c) Borax 1%(d) Rose Water 20%(e) Oil of Rose 0.1%

1.Melt (a) in (b)2.Dissolve (c) in (d).

Add with constant stirring (2) to (1).Add the Oil of Rose and continue to stirtill cold.

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In 1900, Mineral Oil to replace

Vegetable Oils:- Ensure whiteness.

- Inhibition of rancidity.

- Uniformity of the finished product.

- Cleansing improved.

- But it modified emolliency.

Non-ionic Emulsifiers, either alone or with

beeswax-borax combination, are used.

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Oil-in-Water cold creams similar incharacter to the classic cold creams:

Per cent.(a) Mineral Oil 65/75 50.0(b) Beeswax 15.0(c) Spermaceti 2.0(d) Lanolin Anhydrous 0.5(e) G-1441 (Polyoxyethylene sorbitol-lanolin) 4.0

(f) Arlacel 60 (Sorbitan monostearate) 4.0(g) Arlacel 83 (Sorbitan sesquioleate) 0.5(h) Veegum Gel (Magnesium aluminium silicate)0.5(i) Water 23.5(j) Preservative q.s.

(k) Fragrance q.s.1. Mix (h), (i) and (j), heat to 70C.2. Mix (a), (b), (c), (d), (e), (f) and (g) and heat to 70C.

Add (1) to (2) at 70C, with moderate agitation.Continue agitation during cooling.Perfume at 45C and pour at 40C.

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Cleansing CreamsCleansing Creams remove soils, but do not

remove the natural oils of the skin. Thusthey do not cause 'drying' or 'defatting'of the skin.

Properties Desirable in a Cleansing Cream,

Cleansing Milk or Cleansing Lotion:Leave the skin feeling "smooth" andpreferably, non-greasy.

Readily cleanse make-up and other dirt fromthe skin.

Either be in liquid form or should readilyliquefy or soften at that temperature at

which it is used (body temperature),in order to exert any undue "drag" on

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Liquifying Cleansing Creams:

(a) Isopropyl Myristate 25.0%(b) Mineral Oil 25.0%(c) Petroleum Jelly 30.0%(d) Paraffin Wax 20.0%

(e) Fragrance q.s.

1. Melt and mix together all the aboveingredients at about 65C.

2. Cool, with constant stirring until themixture is a little over solidifying point.

3. Pour into jars.

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O/W Cleansing Creams:

Mineral Oil 30.0%Stearic Acid 10.0%

Triethanolamine 2.0%

Carbopol 934 0.5%Water 57.5%

Preservative q.s.

Fragrance q.s.

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W/0 Cleansing Creams:

Mineral Oil 50.0%

Paraffin Wax 5.0%

Bentone 38 0.7%

Arlacel 83 2.0%

Water 41.9%

Isopropanol 0.4%Fragrance q.s.

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Cleansing Milk:

Mineral Oil 10.0%Cetyl Alcohol 0.5%

Stearic Acid 3.0%

Triethanolamine 1.8%Preservative q.s.

Water 84.7%

Fragrance q.s.

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Cleansing Lotions:

Triethanolamine Lauryl Sulphate, Liquid 5.0%

Water 95.0%

Fragrance q.s.Preservative q.s.

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Quality Control:

pH Appearance and Smoothness Spread ability Non-Greasy

Absence of Air Pockets Cleansing Property Emollient Property Absence of Allergic Ingredients

Absence of Incompatibility Economy

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Packaging:

Cold Cream : Wide mouth glass/plastic containers.

Should be screw-type cap.

Aluminum or plastic tubes.

Milks or Lotions :

Narrow mouth plastic bottles/containers.

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Thank you

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Vanishing Cream

Contains a significant amount of oilphase, but after rubbing the residuedoes not feel greasy.

Used as a facial cream, hand cream andfoundation cream.

Water in the external phase. Although they contain soaps, pH is not

alkaline, but between 6 - 6.9. Becauseacid-soaps are used. Alkali-Stearate with Stearic Acid.

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Vanishing Cream ...............

Jacketed Steel Kettles are better.

Impure Steel or Copper utensils not tobe used.

Stirrer to be used cautiously because ofaeration problem. Cooling by stirring is not a good practice.

Vacuum is a must before packaging.

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Vanishing Cream ...............

(a) Stearic Acid 15.0%

(b) Pot. Hydroxide 0.7%(c) Glycerin 8.0%(d) Water 76.3%(e) Preservative q.s.(f) Fragrance q.s.

(1) Heat (a) to 75C.(2) Dissolve (b), (c) and (e) in (d) and raise the temperature of thissolution to 75C.

Add (1) at 75C to (2), with gentle but thorough agitation. Continuestirring until the temperature of the mixture falls to about40C. Add the fragrance, stir and allow the cream to stand for

24-48 hours, occasionally turning over the top crust of creamthat forms.Use a vacuum. After that pass the cream through a low-speed

homogenizer.Pack in suitable containers and seal immediately tomake it air-tight.

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Vanishing Cream ...............

(a) Stearic Acid 15.0%

(b) Pot. Hydroxide 0.7%(c) Glycerin 8.0%(d) Water 76.3%(e) Preservative q.s.(f) Fragrance q.s.

(1) Heat (a) to 75C.(2) Dissolve (b), (c) and (e) in (d) and raise the temperature of thissolution to 75C.

Add (1) at 75C to (2), with gentle but thorough agitation. Continuestirring until the temperature of the mixture falls to about40C. Add the fragrance, stir and allow the cream to stand for

24-48 hours, occasionally turning over the top crust of creamthat forms.Use a vacuum. After that pass the cream through a low-speed

homogenizer.Pack in suitable containers and seal immediately tomake it air-tight.

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Vanishing Cream ...............

(a) Stearic Acid 15.0%

(b) Pot. Hydroxide 0.7%(c) Glycerin 8.0%(d) Water 76.3%(e) Preservative q.s.(f) Fragrance q.s.

(1) Heat (a) to 75C.(2) Dissolve (b), (c) and (e) in (d) and raise the temperature of thissolution to 75C.

Add (1) at 75C to (2), with gentle but thorough agitation. Continuestirring until the temperature of the mixture falls to about40C. Add the fragrance, stir and allow the cream to stand for

24-48 hours, occasionally turning over the top crust of creamthat forms.Use a vacuum. After that pass the cream through a low-speed

homogenizer.Pack in suitable containers and seal immediately tomake it air-tight.

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Vanishing Cream ...............

In this formula, about 3.8% of the fatty acids are neutralized.

If more (20-30% fatty acids) to be neutralized, strongeremulsifiers are to be used.

There are many types of emulsifiers :Sodium Hydroxide gives a harder cream.

Potassium Hydroxide gives softer cream & plenty of sheen.Borax gives a white cream, but tends to grain.Ammonium Hydroxide produces a soft cream, but is unpleasant to the

employees and causes discolouration (light, air, fragrance).Triethanolamine gives a very soft cream with high sheen (Sod.

Hydroxide may correct it). Also causes discolouration of the

cream on long standing (metallic contamination, fragrance, light).Isopropanolamines produce soft creams without any chance of

discolouration.

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Vanishing Cream ...............

(a) Stearic Acid 15.0%

(b) Potassium Hydroxide 0.5%(c) Sodium Hydroxide 0.18%(d) Cetyl Alcohol 0.5%(e) Isopropyl Myristate 3.0%(f) Glycerin 5.0%

(g) Water 75.8%(h) Preservative q.s.(i) Fragrance q.s.

(1) Heat (a), (d) and (e) at 75C until homogenous.

(2) Heat (b), (c), (f), (g) and (h), until a clear solution obtained. Adjusttemperature to 75C.Add (1) to (2) with gentle but continuous agitation.

Stir down to 45C. Fragrance, allow to stand 24-48hours. Use vacuum, homogenize and pack air-tight.

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Vanishing Cream ...............

(a) Stearic Acid 15.0%

(b) Potassium Hydroxide 0.5%(c) Sodium Hydroxide 0.18%(d) Cetyl Alcohol 0.5%(e) Isopropyl Myristate 3.0%(f) Glycerin 5.0%

(g) Water 75.8%(h) Preservative q.s.(i) Fragrance q.s.

(1) Heat (a), (d) and (e) at 75C until homogenous.

(2) Heat (b), (c), (f), (g) and (h), until a clear solution obtained. Adjusttemperature to 75C.Add (1) to (2) with gentle but continuous agitation.

Stir down to 45C. Fragrance, allow to stand 24-48hours. Use vacuum, homogenize and pack air-tight.

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Vanishing Cream ...............

Quality Control :

Absence of gritty particles.pH not alkaline.Not darken on long storage.Shiny/pearly appearance.

Absence of any black particles.Easily absorbed by the skin.Non-greasy or non-sticky.Optimum viscosity.

Mildly fragrant.Packaging :Wide-mouth opaque plastic containers.

Air-tight non-metallic closure.Tubes also can be used.

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Thank you

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