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Reach Mission Trips Skill Sheet Notebook
Table of Contents Safety Guide .......................................................................................................................... 2
Commonly Used Tools ....................................................................................................... 5
Ladder Safety ...................................................................................................................... 9
Hardware Identification .................................................................................................... 11
Roofing ................................................................................................................................ 14
Shingles…………………………………………………………………………14
Aluminum Roof Coat…………………………………………………………...7
Gutters ................................................................................................................................. 19 Tri-Sodium Phosphate…………………………………………………………….. ……21 Painting & Caulking .......................................................................................................... 22
Porch & Steps ..................................................................................................................... 29 Ramps…………………………………………………………………………………….39 Insulation ............................................................................................................................. 44 Drywall ................................................................................................................................ 47 Flooring ............................................................................................................................... 55
Toilets………………………………………………………………………...58
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REACH mission trips SAFETY GUIDE
Basic Safety Practices A staff member inspects every worksite before each workcamp. Projects that appear dangerous are not accepted as workcamp projects. 1. Of the two adults assigned to each crew at least one adult needs to be present at all times. 2. Only the drivers listed on the "Vehicle Information Form" located in the 1st mailing you received from
Reach may drive to the worksites. 3. High school students can only operate power tools when supervised by an adult. Junior High campers are
never permitted to operate power tools. 4. Safety goggles are required when using power tools or scraping paint. 5. Each member of the workcrew needs to drink an adequate amount of water throughout the day. 6. Wear your protective clothing, shoes, hats, gloves, and sunscreen. When scraping paint, you should wear
goggles, gloves, masks, and possibly tyvek suits. Use drop cloths to contain the paint chips. 7. Take your "Ambulance in a Baggie" and emergency care instructions to your worksite each day, along with
phone numbers for local medical facilities and services.
Don't Be Careless A careless attitude can cause accidents and injuries. Here are some examples of careless actions. 1. Showing off - This can cause accidents with horseplay and practical jokes. You can count on a show-off
to start a paint fight or to shake a ladder someone is standing on. 2. Hurrying too fast - This can cause you to get hurt by not having the proper tool for the job you are
doing, or the proper safety equipment. 3. Not alerting fellow workcampers of danger – By not alerting others of impending danger (i.e. weak
roofs, or shaky steps) may result in someone getting hurt. Be sure to let others know if they cannot see the danger ahead.
4. Not Wearing Protective equipment - By not using your protective equipment properly you could end up
with sawdust in your eyes, or worse! 5. Don't be a "know-it-all" - If you don't know how to do the job, then don't give advice. You and your co-
workers could end up doing the job over again. 6. Work area clutter - Don't clutter the area with trash and your tools. Your co-workers could trip on your
messes.
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Identify Unsafe Conditions Before you begin work, inspect the worksite buildings and grounds for unsafe working conditions. Check for hazardous conditions both inside and outside the structures. Hazards abound, but with a positive, alert attitude you can avoid them. Here are some things to look for: dogs, cats or other pets trash and debris broken glass holes in the ground or roof low electrical lines and other electrical hazards insect nests, spiders and snakes small children protruding nails weak or cracked joists Exercise extra caution if you encounter any of these hazards: Insect nests - Check overhangs, walls, attics, and crawl spaces for wasp and bee nests. Wear protective
clothing when removing nests. Also, have plenty of Wasp Spray for bees and wasps available. It’s best to leave nests alone until you are leaving!
Spiders - Spiders live in crawl spaces, attics and wood piles. Some spiders can be poisonous. Wear long-sleeve work shirts and long pants tucked into work boots to protect against bites.
Snakes - Check for snakes before working under a house or picking up boards from a woodpile. Snakes can strike when they feel surprised or cornered. Back away slowly if you see a snake.
Electrical hazards - Most old wiring is dangerous. Rotted insulation leaves dangerous bare wires exposed. Avoid
contact with bare wiring. Check attics for hazardous wiring. If you encounter any questionale wiring, alert your Troubleshooter. Also watch for power lines when placing and moving ladders.
Unsafe floors and roof - Weak or rotten floor, porch, or roof joists may not support a person's weight. Lay a board across three or more joists and crawl across the board.
Protruding Nails - When working in an attic, watch for nails protruding through the roof. Also, watch for nails in boards when cleaning up your worksite and collecting trash.
Keep Your Work Area Clean Good housekeeping prevents injuries and saves time. Cluttered areas may cause your co‐workers to trip, slip and injure themselves. 1. When you finish using tools, return them to a designated area. Don't leave tools laying around. 2. Place all trash in containers or piles immediately. 3. Place all broken glass in metal or cardboard containers. Never put broken glass in plastic bags. 4. Remove or knock down protruding nails immediately. 5. Clean up spilled paint immediately.
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Lift Heavy Objects Properly Lifting heavy objects correctly protects workers from strains, back injuries and hernias. Always team-lift heavy objects. Take the following precautions: 1. Know the amount you can lift comfortably. 2. Get as close as possible to the object you are lifting. 3. Plant your feet firmly with one foot slightly in front of the other. 4. Bend your knees no more than 90 degrees. 5. Keep your back straight. Bend at the hip, not at the back. 6. Grip the object firmly and lift with your legs. 7. Never carry an object you can't see around. Make sure no obstructions block your path. Wear Protective Equipment
To prevent injury, wear safety goggles and other protective equipment. Safety goggles protect your eyes from flying splinters and sawdust. Face masks keep dust out of your lungs and make breathing easier. Gloves protect your hands from cuts and splinters. Work boots can protect your feet from sharp objects.
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Commonly Used Tools
Just as a careless mindset and unsafe working conditions can present hazards, the improper use of tools and equipment can also cause injuries. Using tools correctly involves: Selecting the best tool for the job; and Using each tool properly.
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HAND TOOLS Using hand tools incorrectly causes injuries. Apply the following safety rules when using hand tools:
Use the proper tool. For example, use a screwdriver, not a hammer, to put in screws. Use a pry bar, not a screwdriver, to remove boards. Each tool is designed to do a particular job.
Keep tools clean. Wipe off grease, dirt, caulk, or paint from all tools. Keep cutting edges sharp. Sharp tools are safer than dull tools. They also make work easier, improve
accuracy and save time. When carrying tools, cover sharp edges.
HAMMERS Begin hammering a nail with one or two soft strokes. Then move your hand away from the nail and use
harder strokes to finish driving the nail. Don't try to drive a nail with only one or two strokes. Grip the hammer handle to give you maximum control and the ability to effectively hit the nail. Don't
position your hand too close to the hammerhead. Make sure the hammerhead fits snugly on the handle. If it's loose, don't use the hammer until it's
repaired.
UTILITY KNIVES Use a utility knife to cut through porous materials like roll roofing, siding, insulation and sheetrock. Keep the cutting edges sharp. Sharp knives are safer
than dull ones. Cut away from your hand and body. Think before you cut. Don't use a knife as a screwdriver or pry bar.
PRY BARS Create leverage to loosen or remove nails, siding and boards with a pry bar. Plant your feet firmly to keep your balance. Don't pry with all your weight on the bar. Use steady pressure. Don't jerk on the bar. WRENCHES Make sure the wrench head fits snugly on the nut, bolt or pipe. Loose-fitting wrenches can slip off and cause injury. Pull the wrench towards you; don't push it away from you.
SCREWDRIVERS Select the correct size and type of screwdriver for the job. Ends that are too small can damage the screw. Ends that are too large can mark the working surface. Use a standard screwdriver for single-slot screws and a Phillips screwdriver for Phillips-head screws. Keep your hands away from the end to avoid getting cut if the screwdriver slips. Don't use a screwdriver as a punch or pry bar.
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Make starter holes for screws with a drill or a nail.
HANDSAWS Below is a list of handsaws you use. There are handsaws to cut sheetrock, wood or metal. Hacksaw - Cuts metal such as sheet metal and nails in wood. Crosscut saw - Designed to only cut wood. Keyhole saw - Cuts holes in walls or sheetrock. This saw can be helpful when working in tight spaces where a crosscut saw is impractical. NOTE: a small hole should be started using a drill bit or jigsaw prior to using the keyhole saw. First measure and mark each board. Make your cut just outside the mark. Pull the saw toward you with two or three easy pulls. After starting the cut, move your hand several inches away from the blade.
Saw with smooth strokes keeping the blade at a 45 degree angle to the cutting surface. Steadily push the saw, but don't "bear down". Let the saw do the work. Wear safety goggles when using any saw.
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POWER TOOLS Power tools are safe and efficient if used properly, but carelessness can cause serious injury. Accidents with power tools happen very quickly. You can lose a finger before you feel the pain. You cannot be too careful when using power tools.
When using a power tool: Wear safety goggles to protect your eyes. Tie the ends of the cords together before plugging them into each
other. This will prevent the cords from coming apart. Use tools that are grounded. Use three-prong extension cords. If you must use an adapter, ground
it to the electrical outlet if possible. Never remove the ground prong from the cord.
Report any minor shock caused by a power tool so it can be replaced or repaired. A shock indicates a short in the tool.
Don't use defective power tools. Even minor defects can cause injuries. Don't use tools with damaged electrical cords. Never operate a power tool unless you know how to use it properly. Never talk to anyone who is using a power tool. It may distract the person and cause injury. Always unplug a power tool before working on it. For example, unplug a circular saw before putting on a
new blade; unplug a drill before inserting a new bit.
CIRCULAR SAWS Unless they have a special blade, circular saws are used only to cut wood. Make sure the wood you are cutting is stable and properly supported. Ask someone to hold the wood for
you if necessary. Look under the cutting surface and remove anything in the blade's path that is not supposed to be there. Make your cut just outside the measuring mark. Start the saw before the blade enters the wood. Don't force the saw. Push the saw forward with steady, even pressure. If it's difficult to cut through a piece of wood check the blade. If the blade is dull, get a sharp one or
you can "burn up" the motor. When you get close to the edge, use caution so the blade doesn't catch and kick back at you. Make sure the saw comes to a complete stop and the blade guard is back in the proper position before
putting the saw down.
Electric Drills Electric drills are used to make holes of various sizes, mainly in wood, in order to secure fasteners like screws and bolts. Unplug the drill to loosen or tighten the bit. Make sure nothing is behind or underneath the material you’re drilling through. On hard surfaces, use a center punch or nail to mark where the hole will be drille
Ladder Safety
LADDER INFO Reach uses ladders on nearly every worksite, and though they are a common tool, they can be among the more dangerous. Some ladders can reach up to 40 feet in the air. Improper use of ladders can lead to falling and serious injury.
Kinds of Ladders
A-Frame, or step, ladders are ladders that are self-supporting. These ladders are perfect for lower heights and inside jobs. They provide great stability and mobility.
Extension ladders are two sections of ladder that are connected to extend to multiple heights.
o The section with the feet stays on the ground. This is called the “Base Section.”
o The section that extends into the air is called the “Fly Section.”
o Sometime these ladders will have a rope hat is used to extend the ladder. This rope is called a “Halyard.”
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How to Set an Extension Ladder Setting an extension ladder should always be a 2 person job! 1. Choose the location. Never set a ladder over a door, window, or around a blind
corner. If you must, lock the door under the ladder. Also be sure that the ladder is set on a level surface. You may use blocks or dig out the ground to achieve a level surface.
2. Raise the ladder by laying it on the ground and having one person stand on the bottom feet. Have the other person raise the ladder rung over rung starting at the top until the ladder is vertical.
3. With both people holding the ladder vertical, raise the ladder to the correct height using the halyard. If you are working on a roof, you will want the ladder to extend 3-5 rungs above the edge.
4. Set the ladder against the house and move the base away from the home to the proper angle. If you stand with your feet on the feet of the ladder, your fully extended arms should reach the rungs at shoulder height.
Working on the Ladder When climbing or working on a ladder, always maintain 3 points of contact.
This means 2 feet & 1 hand, or 1 foot & 2 hands. If you must use both hands to work, hook a leg through the rungs of the ladder and on the rail of the ladder.
Never overreach. Try to keep your hips between the rails of the ladder. Always face the ladder when climbing up or down the ladder. Make sure that stepladders are opened completely and locked. Never lean
them against a wall to use as an extension ladder. Keep your tools and materials in your hands or tool belt. Never leave
things on the top of a ladder or hanging from the rungs.
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Bolt Identificaton Remember to order GALVANIZED for any outdoor work!!
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Head Style Identification
Nut Identification Remember to order GALVANIZED for any outdoor work!!
Washer Identification Remember to order GALVANIZED for any outdoor work!!
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Nail Identification
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Roofing
ROOF INFO A roof, more than any other part of a house, takes a beating from the weather. Exposure to driving rain, freezing sleet and heavy snow causes a roof to deteriorate. Then rainwater and melting snow drip through the holes, damaging the house and its contents. So a job well done will impact the life of the house and its contents for many years to come. Note: Take special care to follow all of the safety procedures for working on ladders and in high places!
Tools you May Use Broom Square Chalk line Roof shovel Hammer Tape measure Ladder Tin snips (for flashing) Nail bar Trowel or putty knife Roof knife Utility knife
Materials You May Need Drip Edge Roofing nails Felt Shingles or Roll roofing Flashing Roofing cement Lumber Ice Shield
Safety You will be working on a sloped surface 10 to 20 feet off of the ground. Since roofing presents unique concerns, follow these safety tips carefully. Refer to the Ladder Safety page. Test the area of the roof where you’ll be working before you put your full weight on the roof. Holes or
rotten boards underneath the roofing material may not support you. Look for sagging. Work only on dry roofs with rubber-sole shoes. To prevent tripping, keep extra tools and materials out of the way. Warn other workers to stay clear of the area directly under where you are working. Tools or materials
could fall and cause injuries. Pace yourself and plan frequent rest periods. Roofing work is often hot and exhausting!
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Removing old Roofing Material Do not remove the old roofing material unless you are instructed to do so. Whenever possible, place the new roofing material over the existing material. If you must remove the old roofing, begin at the top of the roof and work your way down. Follow these steps. 1. Use a roofing shovel to pry up the old roofing material. 2. Use a nail bar or a claw hammer to remove roofing nails that protrude from the decking. 3. Tear off the old roofing material right away. Place it in a pile away from your work area. If you do not
have a dumpster, try to place all trash on a tarp for easy disposal. 4. Sweep the roof clean. Check the decking for damage. If the decking is in need of repair, remove and
replace the damaged decking. 5. Uncover only as much roofing as you can cover the same day. Never expose an entire roof at one time!
An overnight rainfall can cause extensive damage to the house and its contents.
Flashing Making chimneys, vents, and valleys water‐tight is difficult but very important. Carefully install flashing to prevent leaks. 1. On the lower side of the chimneys and vents, install the flashing over the roofing material. On the upper
side of the chimneys and vents, install the flashing under the roofing material. 2. Before installing any felt, shingles or roll roofing, use flashing in the valleys. If you already installed ice
shield in the valleys, you do NOT need flashing in the valleys. 3. Spread roofing cement neatly under and around all the edges of the flashing. 4. Nail the flashing to the roof using roof nails and spacing them every 6 inches along the outside edge of
the flashing. 5. Always make sure that nails are covered with shingles and/or roofing cement. 6. Never put a nail into the middle of the flashing.
Installing the Felt, Ice Shield, and Drip Edge 1. First, be sure that the decking is smooth, clear of dirt, and dry. 2. If your home calls for it, run ice shield in every valley so that the middle of the ice shield is over the
middle of the valley. This will prevent leaks caused by severe winter weather. Ice shield is usually self-adhesive and doesn’t require nails or staples.
3. If your home calls for it, install one row of ice shield on the bottom edge of the roof. This will prevent leaks caused by severe winter weather. Ice shield is usually self-adhesive and doesn’t require nails or staples.
4. Install drip edge on all edges around the perimeter of the roof. Use roofing nails to fasten each piece and tin snips to cut. Start on the bottom edges and work your way up, overlapping drip edge at least 6 inches.
5. Before putting felt in the valley, make sure that flashing is already in place in the valley. Install felt in the valley running lengthwise. Make sure it extends up both sides of the valley with the middle of the felt roll in the middle of the valley. Secure it with felt nails or staples AWAY from the middle.
6. Install felt over the entire area that is being roofed, including where there may be ice shield. Start at the bottom of the roof and roll the felt horizontally across the roof. Overlap each course by 12” horizontally and 6” vertically (12” inches for roll roofing projects). Nail or staple the felt down every 18” with felt nails or staples. Felt tears very easily so be careful when walking on newly laid felt.
7. Felt will protect roofs from rain, so try to cover any exposed areas with felt before leaving that day.
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Installing the Shingles 1. Make sure that your valleys are taken care of first! 2. Start along the bottom with a reversed row of shingles. That means the 3-tab side should face UP the
roof! This row will run flush with the edge of the roof. 3. Run a row of shingles facing the correct way (3-tabs pointing DOWN the roof) directly on top of the
first row. Each piece should receive 4-6 nails just above the tar line, don’t nail into the flashing. 4. Use a chalkline to mark your next row of shingles. Look at the package of shingles to determine what your
overlap must be. Measure from the peak of the roof to check your measurements. 5. Install the next row of shingles following the chalkline to make sure your shingles stay straight. 6. Make sure that you always stagger the seams and tabs. 7. Use a utility knife to cut off excess on the edges.
Installing Ridge Cap for Shingles When you are completely done installing the shingles, you must install a ridge vent. Ridge vent will roll out along the ridge, or peak, of the roof and allow air to move in and out of the attic as the temperature fluctuates. 1. Roll out the ridge vent along the peak of the roof. 2. Being sure that the ridge vent extends far enough on
each side of the peak, then use long roofing nails to hold it in place. They MUST be longer than the nails you have been using, usually 2 inches.
3. Cut shingles into three pieces, one for each tab. Then bevel the end that won’t show with a utility knife.
4. Consider the direction that wind will most often come at the house. You may be able to obtain this information from the homeowner.
5. Start laying the shingles so that they face AWAY from the wind direction. 6. Use 2 roofing nails per shingle and lay them the same as the slope. In this case do NOT attempt to
stagger seams.
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Aluminum roof Coating
ARC INFO With proper care, flat roof coverings can last many years. Even if the roof is old, you can often extend its useful life by several years with brush‐on roof coatings. Roof coatings contain liquid asphalt and are used to replace oils and solvents in dried‐out asphalt roofing. Roofing cement is a spreadable, asphalt‐based paste used to fill small cracks and holes, repair blistered roofing and seal loose seams. Aluminum roof coating contains tiny aluminum flakes that float to the surface on application, forming a metallic shield that reflects direct sunlight. In addition to extending the life of the roof, the reflective shielding also helps to lower indoor temperatures.
Tools you may use Hammer Utility Knife Brush & Pole Putty Knife Gloves Stirring Stick
Materials you may need Aluminum Roof Coat Roof Cement Roofing Nails
Keys to success 1. Don’t climb on the roof! Roofs that require ARC are often not strong enough to fully support your weight!
Your body will create indents where water can pool and will eventually leak. 2. Work from ladders and use extension poles to reach the entire roof. Remember to start at the farthest
point from the ladder! 3. The roof area must be dry before you can apply ARC.
Inspecting and sealing the seams 1. Sweep all dust, dirt, and leaves from the roof surface with a broom. Be sure to clean debris from gutters
along the roof to prevent clogging. 2. Remove moss growing in shaded areas and check roof overhangs for loose roofing particles and debris. 3. Inspect the surface for holes, tears and blisters. Give these areas an extra cleaning with a scrub brush
before applying the roof coat. 4. Check all seams in roll roofing for tight seals. Look for nails that have popped through the roofing
material. Mark damaged areas with a pencil or chalk. 5. Spread roofing cement under loose seams with a putty knife. Cover the
seam with more cement. Apply roofing cement over any nails that have popped through.
6. Check joints where roofing meets chimneys and gutters. Seal gaps with a coat of roofing cement.
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Applying the roof coating 1. Follow the directions on the can of aluminum roof coating thoroughly to guarantee a proper job. 2. Be sure to stir the insides of the can to mix the flakes of aluminum throughout the entire can. You may
find that leaving the can upside-down for 15 minutes before stirring will help the process, but make sure the lid is on very secure before attempting this!
3. After checking that the roof is clean and dry, brush on aluminum roof coating, working in a small area at a time. Take special care to saturate the seams and patched areas.
4. Allow at least 24 hours for the roof coating to dry. Ask your Troubleshooter if a second coat might be needed AFTER the first coat has dried!
Helpful Tips 1. Roofing cement spreads more easily when warm. Letting the can
sit in the hot sun for a while will make your job easier. 2. “Washing” with mayonnaise or peanut butter will remove tar & ARC
from your skin, but your clothes will be stained permanently!
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Gutters
GUTTER INFO Gutters and downspouts perform a critical but simple task – draining water from your roof and channeling that potentially damaging water away from your home. Although systems vary, they all include certain essential parts. Gutters are the horizontal sections attached to the fascia, the board above the house siding just below the roofline. They are designed to carry water to downspouts, the vertical sections attached to walls, which drain water to the ground. Gutters are mounted with hangers or brackets. You should hang gutters with slight slope towards the gutter drop, which joins the gutter to the downspout. At the base of the downspout is an elbow, which directs water away from the walls.
Tools you may USE Hacksaw Pop Rivet Gun Measuring Tape Caulking Gun Drill Level Chalk line
Materials you may have Gutter Gutter Hangers End Caps Gutter Drops Pop Rivets Connectors Elbows Gutter Sealant Downspout Corners Downspout Straps
Keys to success 1. To test the performance of gutters and downspouts, use a garden hose to run water through the system. Water
that does not drain indicates a clog that must be cleared or system that slopes the wrong direction. 2. Working with gutters usually means working with ladders and with unwieldy materials. It is a good idea to have an
assistant to help you measure the fascia, cut and assemble pieces, and hold the gutter while you attach it. 3. Gutters need to be sloped so that water flows towards the downspout; the formula
is ½ inch of slope for every section of gutter (10 feet). 4. Hang the gutters a section at a time. Trying to connect the gutters on the ground
often leads to damage of the gutter!
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Measuring the Slope 1. Measure and mark the fascia at each end of the house. Remember that the mark should drop ½ inch for every
section of gutter. For gutters longer than 50', make the middle the high part and slant down to downspouts on each end. It is vital that the gutter is straight and always going down.
2. Have someone hold the chalk line at one mark, then bring the chalk line to the mark at the opposite end. Hold the chalk line taut and snap it – the mark it forms serves as a guide for hanging the gutter.
Assembling and hanging the gutters 1. Cut the gutter to the correct length using a hacksaw. Do this on the ground, not on
the roof. 2. On the ground, place the hangers onto your section of gutter about every 30 inches (or
4 hangers per section). 3. Attach end caps, connectors, corners, or gutter drops
using gutter seal. 4. Beginning at one end, install the gutter by screwing the
gutter hangers into the fascia. 5. Continue hanging sections of gutter, making sure your
connections are secure.
Installing a downspout 1. Prior to installing the gutter sections, you will need to install a gutter drop. Measure so that the gutter drop will
be parallel with the end of the house, which may NOT be at the very end of the gutter. 2. Cut a hole in the bottom of the gutter section to allow the gutter drop to set in. Connect it using gutter seal and
pop rivets. 3. Attach an A elbow onto the gutter drop that will direct back towards the house. Attach this to the gutter drop
using pop rivets. 4. Holding a second elbow against the wall of the house, measure the distance between
it and the previously installed elbow to determine the length of downspout needed to reach the wall.
5. Attach the downspout to the second elbow to run along the wall. It will extend almost to the ground and be attached to the wall with downspout straps.
6. Install an elbow at the bottom of the downspout to direct water away from the foundation.
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Tri-Sodium Phosphate
TSP INFO Tri‐Sodium Phosphate (TSP) is a heavy‐duty cleaning agent that is used to clean dirt, grime, and mildew from the
exterior of homes. It can be used on vinyl, wood, or metal siding.
Safety Tips! Make sure that you do not ingest any TSP, either in crystalline form or in a water solution. It can have harmful effects. Also do not let it come into contact with your eyes. Always wear protective gloves when using TSP. Make sure to work in a well ventilated area so you do not inhale too much of the solution’s fumes. Follow the directions on the bag concerning the amount of water that should be used to make the TSP solution.
Tools you may USE Scrub Brush Bucket Protective Gloves
Materials you may have TSP
Preparing the solution 1. You will be provided with a Ziploc bag(s) of TSP. The bag contains 1 Cup of TSP. 2. Empty the contents of the Ziploc bag into a bucket. The bucket needs to a have volume capacity of at least 1 Gallon. 3. Add 3 Quarts of warm water to make your TSP solution.
Using the Solution 1. Make sure that you are wearing protective gloves when dipping your scrub brush into the solution. 2. Scrub the dirty areas of the home and make it as clean as possible. 3. After you finish cleaning, hose down the parts of the home that were cleaned. 4. If you are painting the home, make sure the surface is dry before painting.
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Painting
Though it may seem like a simple job, painting is actually a very important part of what Reach does. A fresh coat of paint not only helps restore pride in your Neighbor’s home, but also helps protect the materials that support the home! Exposed wood will rot and eventually need to be replaced. Painted wood will last many years without rotting.
Painting Guidelines Follow ladder safety procedures! Use drop cloths to protect furniture, floors, bushes, porches and sidewalks from paint spills
and drips. If you are scraping paint, try to catch the paint chips in a drop cloth and then properly dispose
of them. Use masking tape or painter’s tapeto protect windows and woodwork. Stir the paint thoroughly before and during use. Use a clean stir stick to bring paint up from
the bottom of the can. Provide good ventilation when painting indoors. Close cans tightly to keep the paint from spilling and/or drying out. Wrap your brushes and rollers in plastic when you are done for the day instead of rinsing them! NEVER leave paint cans, buckets, or brushes/rollers in the sun! Always place them in the shade. Only stop painting a section when you reach a “natural break,” such as a corner, trim, or change
in surface.
Tools you May need Caulk Gun Scraper or Putty knife Drop cloths Rags or paper towels Ladders Rollers & roller covers Masking tape Roller pans Paint brushes Sandpaper Stir sticks Wire brush
Materials you May Have Caulk Paint and/or Primer Cleaning supplies Putty
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Choosing Brushes and Rollers Select brushes and rollers based on the size and texture of the surface.
Use 1- or 2-inch brushes for windows, shutters and trim work, such as window frames or moldings, and for hard- to-reach corners.
Use 3-inch brushes for large, flat surfaces such as baseboards, doors, beams, gutters, stair steps or shelves.
Use rollers or 4-inch brushes for large, flat areas. Don’t use rollers in corners or tight places.
Use roller extensions for ceilings or high walls.
Preparation for Exterior Painting Sometimes you will need to prepare the surface of the home exterior before it can be painted. Surface preparation can include cleaning, scraping, sanding, and priming. To ensure the paint will stick to the surface for a long time, follow these steps. 4. If your work description calls for cleaning with TSP, do this before you paint. 5. If the requires scraping, use a scraper, putty knife, and/or wire brush to remove old, cracked
or peeling paint. Only scrape the paint that is brittle to the touch. You do NOT have to remove all of it.
6. You may need to sand areas that appear glossy. Paint won’t stick to slick, shiny surfaces. 7. If there are any loose boards, reattach them firmly in place. Hammer in any loose nails. 8. If necessary, caulk the cracks around windows, doors and other joints. 9. Apply primer to any bare surfaces, including any areas that have been scraped. This prevents
the paint from being soaked into the material!
Caulking As houses age, cracks may develop at the joints. Improper maintenance, aging of material and weather-related expansion and contraction cause cracking. Cracks can cause many problems, including allowing rodents or insects to enter, exposing materials to moisture, and allowing drafts. While the job is simple, caulking will help add life to a home.
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Where to Caulk Caulk the following areas as needed:
Molding around windows and doors Thresholds Storm doors and windows Window air conditioners, fans and coolers Drip caps over doors and windows Pipes entering exterior walls and floors Cracked or split siding and seams Cracks between the foundation and siding Utility meters Vents
Applying Caulk Always read the label first. Some types of caulk are flammable; others may irritate your skin; and some give off dangerous vapors. Some types of caulk can be painted, but other types must be applied after the surfaces have been painted. To use caulk effectively and safely, follow the manufacturer’s directions and precautions. 1. Clean oil, grease, dirt and old caulk from the joint or crack. 2. To open a new tube of caulk, use the tip-cutter in the handle of the
caulk gun. If your caulk gun doesn’t have this, then use a utility knife to cut the nozzle at a 45-degree angle on the desired mark. (Nozzle tips usually have several marks for different size openings). The longer the tip end, the smaller the bead size will be. If you have several different size cracks to caulk, fill the smallest cracks first. The cut the nozzle again to get a larger bead. Remember to always cut away from your body!
3. Stick a nail or other sharp object into the nozzle to puncture the seal inside the nozzle before you caulk.
4. To insert a caulk tube in a caulking gun, turn the plunger so the teeth face up, away from the trigger. Pull back on the plunger and insert the tube. Turn the plunger so the teeth face down, toward the trigger. Then push the plunger tightly into the tube.
5. If the crack is 3/8 inch wide or smaller, stuff it with backing material, such as rolled-up newspaper or Great Stuff. After stuffing the crack, apply a bead of caulk to finish the seal. You may need multiple beads for wider cracks. Cracks wider than 3/8
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inch must be stuffed and covered with molding or siding. Do not caulk a crack wider than 3/8 inch.
6. Hold the caulking gun at a 45-degree angle. Keep the caulk flowing by gently squeezing the trigger consistently and pulling the gun evenly. The caulk usually comes out slowly and may still pump caulk after you’re done squeezing. The bead should overlap both sides of the crack.
7. Smooth out the caulk bead. For latex caulk, a wet finger works best. For large cracks, use a putty knife.
8. When finished, disengage the plunger and pull it back slightly to release pressure on the caulk and keep it from oozing out.
9. Clean caulk from the nozzle of a partially used tube. Seal the tube by inserting a screw or large nail into the tip of the nozzle.
Cleanup Clean the caulking gun and other tools before the caulk has time to harden. Clean latex caulk with water.
Exterior Painting 1. Make sure that you have drop cloths in place to protect bushes, sidewalks, and gardens. 2. Tape off areas immediately adjacent to the areas you will paint to create crisp lines. 3. Stir the paint by scraping the bottom with a stir stick. Stir until the paint color is uniform
throughout. 4. Fill your personal bucket or tray with paint. Work with small amounts to prevent wasting paint.
You can always refill. 5. Dip the brush one-quarter to one-third its bristle length into the paint. To avoid dripping, wipe
one side on the edge of your paint can or bucket. 6. Hold the brush comfortably on the part of the handle closest to the bristles. Hold the brush
like a pencil, not with a fist.
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7. Start at the highest points of the home. Remember, other crews may be waiting for your ladders!
8. Paint with steady, even strokes. Lift the brush gradually at the end of each stroke. 9. Before using a roller, paint the edges and corners with a brush. 10. Use a roller to cover large areas. Only use enough force to roll the
roller against the wall; pushing too hard will create uneven textures!
Interior Painting Use the same basic techniques as exterior painting. 1. Cover the furniture and floors with drop cloths. 2. Tape off trim if it will be a different color. 3. Paint ceilings first, then the walls. 4. Start in the corners near the ceiling, then the large areas. Paint the trim last. 5. When using a roller, make the first stroke in an upward direction, then smooth out the paint with
horizontal strokes. 6. Paint walls from the top to the bottom. Painting Window Frames Windows are a special challenge. Follow these steps. Be sure to allow the paint to dry between each step. Don’t allow paint to dry in a way that will prevent the window from opening! 1. Apply masking tape to the edges of the glass to avoid painting the glass. 2. Raise the inside sash and lower the outside sash. Paint the outside sash crossbars and frame, but
do NOT paint the bottom of the sash. Paint the inside sash, but do NOT paint the top edge. (You’ll use the edges to move the sashes, so keep them dry).
3. Move both sashes to within an inch of their closed positions. Paint all unpainted areas. 4. Move both sashes down as far as possible. Paint all unpainted areas, including the top and bottom
edges. When the paint is dry, move both sashes up as far as possible. Paint all unpainted areas, including the top and bottom edges.
Cleanup Whenever you take a break, you must keep the paint from drying on your brushes and rollers. If you are using the brushes and rollers again the next day or that afternoon, wrap them tightly in plastic wrap or a plastic bag. If you are completely done for the week, follow these steps: 1. Agitate the brush or roller in water to remove as much paint as possible. 2. Loosen the paint by rubbing the bristles or roller between your thumb and fingers. 3. Shake the brush or roller, or wipe it with a clean rag to remove the excess water. 4. Unless you used Rustoleum brand paint, you will not need paint thinner to remove paint.
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Porches & Steps
Porches and steps serve a number of useful functions. When they’re in good repair, porches and steps provide convenient access to and from a house. On warm summer evenings, porches often become social centers – places where neighbors and friends sit and chat. Some porches protect an entrance from rain, snow and cold winds, while other porches store household items.
Not all porches are inviting and safe. Exposure to sun, rain, snow and wind takes its toll on porches and steps. They’re especially vulnerable to rot-producing moisture, which weakens porches and steps and makes them unsafe.
Tools you may need Level Handsaw Circular saw Pencil Clamp Posthole digger or shovel Electric drill and bits Pry bar Extension cord Square Hammer Tape measure
Materials you may have Deck Screws Nails Lag Screws Joist hangers Lumber 4x4 Post brackets Rafter Ties Sacrete
Repairing Porches If possible, repair an existing porch rather than build a new one.
6. Remove the damaged boards using a pry bar. Try not to damage the good boards next to the
boards you’re replacing. 7. Determine if the joists underneath the deck are damaged. Remove and replace any damaged
joists with the same-size boards. Often a section of the joist needs reinforcement. To reinforce a joist, place a board the same size next to the damaged section, then nail the two boards together.
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Building a 6 x 6 porch
1. Layout holes for beams – You will dig 4 holes a. 2 holes should be dug 8 Inches from the house and 4 feet apart. b. 2 holes should be dug 4 feet 8 Inches from the house and 4 feet apart. c. Holes should be a minimum of 12” in diameter and as deep as indicated by your troubleshooter
2. Measure and cut your posts. – Height of each post will vary slightly.
a. Put part A in the two holes closest to the house. (No concrete yet.) Each 4x4 Tip: You may be able to cut a 4 x 4 into multiple posts.
b. Using a 2 x 4 and a level, run the 2 x 4 from the bottom of the door to the point that the finished deck would meet each post and mark it.
c. Then measure 6.5” beneath that mark and make a new mark. This 6.5” is the thickness of your deck frame and decking. (2 x 6 – 5.5”…5/4 x 6 – 1”. So 5.5” + 1” = 6.5”)
d. Cut each post at the new mark and return each post to its respective hole. (No concrete yet.)
3. Construct deck beams – Beams will be parallel to the dwelling. a. Cut each Part B to make two 5 Foot 9 Inches Foot Beams. b. After cutting each part B to the proper length you should have four pieces. c. Attach the beams to the posts using post brackets. Use Joist hanger nails at each contact point.
DO NOT CONCRETE BEAMS INTO THE GROUND UNTIL DECK FRAME HAS BEEN ATTACHED TO BEAMS i. This will allow you to make sure your deck is square and the beams are square to your deck
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1. Construct your deck frame and joists– This will be assembled separately a. The deck frame and joists will be constructed with 2 x 6’s. b. From your material you will need to cut:
i. 2 – 2 x 6 x 5’9” Part C (Cut a 12 foot board in half) 1. These boards will be used for the inside (right up against the house) and outside (away from
the house) of the frame. ii. 6 – 2 x 6 x 5’ 7 ½ “ Part D (Cut 12 foot boards to make two 69” boards)
1. These will be used for the left and right boards of the frame and the 4 joists. 2. Construct the Frame using a Joist Hanger at each end of Part D to secure them to Part C.
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2. Attach the frame and joists to your beams a. Place your beams in the holes b. Pick up the frame and set it on top of the beams. The deck should fit on the beams flush on each end. c. Using the rafter ties in your hardware package attach all center joists to the inside of each beam. d. Use galvanized joist hanger nails in every hole of the rafter ties.
3. Concrete your beam posts into the ground.
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a. Brace your beams so they are plumb to the ground and the deck frame sits level. b. Add concrete to the holes so the concrete is about 6” from the ground level.
i. You will probably need to use more than one bag of concrete in each hole. c. Add a bucket of water in each hole.
i. As the water seeps into the concrete, you can add more water as needed. ii. DO NOT MOVE ON TO THE NEXT STEP UNTIL CONCRETE IS DRY (Probably the next day).
4. Cut and install band boards.
a. We are going to install 2 x 8 band boards around 3 sides of the frame. b. From your material you will need to cut:
i. 2 – 2 x 8 x 5’ 10 ½” Part E Boards (Cut a 12 foot board in half) 1. These boards will be used for the left and right band board.
ii. 1 – 2 x 8 x 6’ Part F Board (Cut an 8 foot board) 1. This board will be used for the outside band board.
c. The band boards should be attached to the frame so that it extends 1” above the frame. (This is done so that when the decking is installed it will be even and the sides of the decking will be hidden.)
d. Use 3” deck screws to attach the band boards. 5. Install decking
a. The decking boards should be installed parallel to the house, so they can be screwed into the joists. b. Each deck board will fit between the band boards on each side. This length should be 5/4” x 6 x 5’9”. (Cut 12
foot deck boards in half) c. Start next to the house and work your way away from the house. d. Butt the deck boards right up against each other. Do NOT leave a gap in between.
i. The wood is designed to shrink slightly over time and will form a gap. e. You may need to rip the last deck board to the final width. f. Install the decking with 2.5” deck screws.
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1. Cut and install your 4 x 4 rail posts
a. You will install a post 3” in from all corners of your deck (6 posts) b. You will need to install one additional rail post for the steps.
i. You need to have a 39” gap for the steps. ii. That 39” gap should be measured from the inside of the two posts. iii. This will allow a 1.5” wide handrail on each side and leave 36” for the steps.
c. Your rail posts need to be 42.25” Part I. (Thickness of the band board = 7.25” + 35” = 42.25”) d. Bottom of the rail posts should be even with the bottom of the band board. e. Each rail post should be secured to the outside of the deck using two 6” lag screws. (Go through the frame and
band board into the posts.) 2. Install deck railings – We want to install three railings around the deck using 2 x 4’s.
a. Top Rail – Install a 2 x 4 flush with the top of the 4 x 4 rail posts. b. Bottom Rail – Install a 2 x 4 will be placed 3.5” above the floor of the deck.
i. Place a scrap piece of 4 x 4 on top of the deck and the 2 x 4 rail will sit on top to be installed. c. Middle Rail - 2 x 4 will be placed in the middle of the top and bottom 2 x 4.
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d. Install the railings with 3” deck screws.
3. Install 5/4 x 6 cap rail – This will sit on top of the rail posts and the top rails. a. Use the 8 Foot decking boards. Measure and cut them to the right length. b. If two cap rails meet at a corner, cut their ends at a 45 degree angle so they will match. c. Install the cap rails with 2.5” deck screws.
Example For steps on the side of the Porch
Porches & Steps
Example For steps on the Front of the Porch
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Repairing Steps If possible, repair steps rather than build new ones.
1. Use a pry bar to remove damaged boards. Try not to damage boards that won’t be
replaced. 2. Replace the damaged boards with boards of the same size. Building Steps When old steps are too badly damaged to repair, build new ones. Tip: Be very careful when removing old steps to not damage the old stringers. You may be able to re-use them. At the very least, you can use them to trace the outline of your new stringers. 1. Mark a stringer on a 2 x 12 board using a Framing square. The marked stringer should
look like this. Consult with your troubleshooter to figure out how many steps you need.
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2. Cut the stringer and use it as a pattern to mark the second stringer. If steps are needed to be wider then 36” a third stringer needs to be cut and placed in the center.
3. Attach the stringers to the porch frame. If you’re attaching the stringers to the house, you may need to attach a board directly to the house and then attach the stringers to it.
4. Level the area where the stringers meet the ground so that everything is level.
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Ramps
Ramps serve a number of useful functions. When they’re in good repair, ramps provide convenient and safe access to and from a house.
Tools Level Saws Pencil Posthole digger & shovel Electric drill and bits Pry bar Extension cord Square Hammer Tape measure
Materials Lumber Nails Hardware Paint Sacrete Preparing to Build 11. The slope determination process starts by first establishing how much total rise has
to be covered. Two measurements must be checked to determine this figure. The first measurement is the distance from bottom of the door down to the ground. Since a ramp is constructed a certain distance out from the house into the yard, though, any slope in the yard must also be calculated. For example, if the change in grade from a home's doorsill to the ground at the foundation is 29", and the yard out where the ramp will end is flat, then the total rise that must be covered is 29". However, if the change in grade at another house's foundation is 29" (a), but the yard where the ramp will be located drops away another 13" (b), then the total rise that must be covered is 42" (c).
12. Determine the ramp’s measurements. Ramps must go horizontally 1 foot for every inch it goes vertically. For example, if a top of a ramp is 42” inches higher than the
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bottom of the ramp, then the sloping parts of the ramp will need to be at least 42’ long, and that doesn't include any distances required for necessary landings or turns.
13. There are three main types of ramps: a Straight ramp, an L-Shaped ramp, and a Switchback ramp. Determine which type
is needed based on the space available and the length of the ramp.
14. No single run of ramp can exceed 30’ in length, unless it has a 5x5 level, resting area at its mid-point.
15. Ramp structures must be constructed with at least 42 inches between posts for the ramp width. The width between any railings must be at least 36 inches.
16. Ramps must have a 5x5 clear, level landing at its top and at all turns. Building a ramp onto the side of an existing porch will satisfy this requirement. The landing at the top should be at the entrance door threshold and provide at least 18” of clear landing to the side of the latch.
17. For stability, ramps must be supported by 4x4 vertical posts every 4’-6’.
Begin Building 1. Begin by finding the locations of each of your 4x4 posts.
These should be spaced every 4’-6’ on both sides of the ramp, in pairs 42” apart. Dig footing holes past the local frost line that has been determined (ask your Troubleshooter!)
2. Cut 4 x 4 corner support posts long enough to reach from the top of the railing (36” above the porch floor) to the local frost line. Posts can be longer than needed at this point, as it is easy to cut off the extra when you are ready to install the railing.
3. Mix 4” of concrete into each hole. Allow the concrete to set overnight. 4. Place a 4x4 post on top of the concrete in
the hole. Use a level to make sure the posts are completely vertical. Use long boards or string to be sure your posts are all in a straight line.
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5. Pack, or “tamp,” the dirt in the hole to prevent the post from moving. You can use 2x4s to hold the posts level while you fill each hold with dirt.
6. Use chalkline or a long board to mark the slope along the posts. Remember that the slope is 1 foot of horizontal run for every 1 inch of vertical rise.
7. Cut 2x6 side joists to run the length of the ramp. These should run on the inside of the posts that you set and line up with the chalk line mark.
8. Cut a 2x6 board to go between the side joists every 8’. Attach a center joists to these cross members using joist hangers.
9. Cut 5/4” x 6” deck boards and fasten at perpendicular to the side joists. They should extend at least 1” beyond the side joists on each side. Space the boards with 16d nails, but use 8d nails to fasten them to the joists with two nails at each joist.
10. Handrails should consist of two 2x4 horizontal boards attached to the 4x4 vertical posts. The lower 2x4 should be placed with its lower edge 3” above the ramp surface. (Use a scrap of 4x4 to measure the height) The higher 2x4 should be placed with its top edge 36” above the ramp surface. Finally, attach a 2x6 along the top of the posts as a grab bar.
11. The end of the ramp should have a smooth transition to the ground or sidewalk. Cut the joists at an angle to match the terrain at the end of the ramp, or dig the ground out so that joist run into the ground. If the edge is to steep, you may need to order additional materials, like secrete, to smooth the transition.
Insulation A properly insulated house limits the loss of heat during cold weather and keeps the heat out on warm days. Insulation is basically porous material that helps to trap heat inside a house. Insulation helps our Neighbors keep their utilities costs down, pipes from freezing, and provides significant comfort. Two types of insulation are used by Reach: Rolls or batts of faced insulation Rolls or batts of UNfaced insulation Facing provides a vapor barrier and is necessary in some cases. The insulation Reach uses is either 15 or 23 inches wide, depending on the gaps between studs and rafters.
Tools you may need Facemask Staple gun & Staples Gloves Utility knife Ladder Tape measure Safety goggles
Materials you may have Duct tape Tiger Claws Insulation
Guidelines If you have faced insulation, always face the vapor barrier (the paper backing) toward
the living space. On ceilings, face the vapor barrier down. Under floors, face the vapor barrier up. In walls, the paper faces the center of the room.
Use a Staple Gun to install the insulation. To prevent pipes from freezing, install insulation between pipes. Fill every gap. Even small gaps allow for drafts and significant heat loss. If the vapor barrier rips or tears, repair it with tape after installing it. Insulate the longest and largest areas first – the shorter, smaller areas last. In attics, start in the areas with the least head room farthest from the attic door. The more compressed insulation is, the less effective it is. Let the insulation “fluff”
into space, as opposed to forcing it in.
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Safety Tips Keep insulation at least 3 inches away from all electrical heat sources such as recessed
light fixtures. Treat all electrical wiring with care. Never pull or bend wiring. Insulation may cause temporary skin irritation, so wear long sleeves and avoid touching
the fibers with your skin. Gloves and long-sleeve shirts will protect your skin. Safety goggles will protect your eyes. A facemask will keep dust and fiberglass particles out of your lungs. Any exposed skin should be washed with cold water to reduce irritation.
Watch for nails protruding through the roof or floor. Clean up the work area when you’re finished BEFORE removing your safety gear. Pick
up all insulation scraps, staples and nails.
Installing Fiberglass Insulation 1. Measure the area you’re insulating. Remember, measure twice and cut once! 2. Lay the insulation on a board with the vapor barrier facing up. Place a straight-edge
(a board works best) along the cut line. Compress the insulation and cut it the proper length.
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3. In walls, place the insulation between the studs with the vapor barrier facing in (towards the living space). Staple it to the studs. Space your staples about 6 inches apart.
4. In ceilings, lay the insulation between joists with the vapor barrier facing down (toward the living space). There is no need to staple the insulation in place.
5. Under floors, face the vapor barrier facing up (toward the floor). Use tiger claws to hold the insulation in place. Staples will not be strong enough. Place tiger claws 3 feet apart. Position them to hold the insulation against the floor without compressing the insulation.
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Drywall
Some Reach projects require the installation of sheetrock, which is also called drywall. Drywall is the most common material for sheathing an interior wall – for good reason. It is inexpensive, strong and easy to work with.
Guidelines Work in a team of two or three people. Always carry sheetrock carefully as it can break easily. To prevent damage to the
edges, never drag or slide the sheetrock. You may need to insulate walls and ceilings before securing the sheetrock in place;
check first! Start with the ceiling, then do the walls. This allows for the sheetrock on the ceiling
to have support from the sheetrock on the walls.
Tools you may need Chalkline Sanding Block Hammer Drywall mesh Keyhole Saw Plumb Level Square Putty Knife Utility Knife Pencil Tape Measure
Materials you may have Joint Compound (mud) Sheetrock/drywall Joint Tape Drywall Screws
Cutting Sheetrock 6. Measure the area to be drywalled, then measure and mark the
sheetrock. 7. Score the sheetrock (the white side) using a utility knife and a straightedge. The
score should be about 1/8” deep.
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8. Break the sheet-rock core over the edge of a large surface such as a sawhorse or table.
9. Cut the backing paper and smooth any rough edges. 10. Measure the positions of windows, doors, electrical outlets, switches and other
objects. Then mark the positions on the sheetrock. Use a keyhole saw to cut out these openings.
Installing sheetrock on a ceiling Install sheetrock on the ceiling first and then the walls. This allows for the sheetrock on the ceiling to rest on the walls. Make sure you have enough people to complete this task before starting. 1. Place sheetrock lengthwise perpendicular to the ceiling joists. 2. Place each sheet so the edges cover no more than ½ of the outer
joists to allow room for adjoining sheets. 3. Measure and cut the sheetrock to fit any openings. Cut holes for
lights or other objects. 4. Place the first piece of sheetrock square with the ceiling joists. It’s
better to start right, than try to correct alignment problems later. 5. If necessary, use a T-brace to help hold the sheetrock against the
ceiling joists while you secure it in place. (A T-brace can be made from a 3’ piece of 2 x 4 nailed to a 2 x 4 about 1” longer than the ceiling is high.)
6. Snap chalk lines across the sheetrock at the center of each joist. Use these lines as guides for screws or nails.
7. Secure the sheetrock into position. Start at the center joist and work outward. Space screws/nails 5 to 7 inches apart along the center of the studs.
8. Turn each screw far enough into the sheetrock to make a dimple, but do not go through the sheetrock.
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Installing Sheetrock on walls 1. Start at the top of the wall and work down, hanging the long edge of the sheetrock
perpendicular to the studs. 2. Each sheet should cover no more than ½ of the outer studs to allow room for the
adjoining sheet. 3. Measure and cut the sheetrock to fit any openings. Cut holes for outlets or other
objects. 4. Make sure the first sheet is square & plumb. 5. Secure the sheetrock into place. Space the screws/nails approximately 12” apart along
the studs. 6. Turn each screw far enough into the sheetrock to make a dimple, but do not go through
the sheetrock.
Applying Joint Compound and Tape 1. Use a wide, flexible putty knife to spread the joint compound.
Try to use a wider knife for each coat. 2. Liberally apply joint compound into each seam, then gently press
the joint tape smoothly in with a putty knife, wiping away excess joint compound. There should be no wrinkles. Allow a day to dry before continuing!
3. For the second coat, be sure the first coat has dried. Use your putty knife or sanding mesh to remove any lumps of joint compound. Apply joint compound liberally onto the tape, making sure to go slightly wider than the tape. Then use your putty knife to smooth down the joint compound the length of the tape using gentle pressure. Allow a day to dry before continuing!
4. For the third coat be sure the previous coat has dried. Use sanding mesh to smooth out any imperfections in the joint compound. Apply joint compound liberally onto the previous joint compound. Use a wide putty knife to “feather” the joint compound 4 inches to either side of the tape. Feathering is smoothing the compound from the center of the tape out to the edge of the compound. The farther from the center of the tape, the thinner the coat should be. Allow a day to dry before continuing!
5. Repeat step for if necessary. (HINT: Every coat should extend a little farther from the seam)
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Inside Corners 1. Spread joint compound over a 4 to 8 foot section of the joint. 2. Crease a piece of joint tape down the center before placing it in the corner. 3. Refer to “Applying Joint Compound and Tape.”
Outside Corners 1. If you have a metal corner bead, nail it to the corner and refer to “Applying Joint
Compound and Tape.” 2. If just using a plastic corner, apply it as if it is tape, referring to “Applying Joint
Compound and Tape.”
Covering Nail/screw holes 1. Apply compound to all nail or screw dimples. Smooth the compound by scraping it with
a putty knife until it is even with the surrounding surface. Let the compound dry.
Small Dents 1. If necessary, sand the surface carefully. 2. Fill dents with spackle of joint compound. Let the compound dry overnight. If
necessary, apply a second coat and allow it to dry. 3. Use a sanding block to sand the surface and remove high spots. 4. Prime and paint to match the surrounding area.
Cracks 1. Clean the area around the crack, and sand it carefully. 2. Apply spackle or joint compound. Force the compound into the crack. Work the
compound across the crack in both directions. 3. Refer to “Applying Joint Compound and Tape.”
Small Holes 1. Cut or tear pieces of drywall tape to cover the hole. 2. Spread compound in and around the hole, then press the tape
into it. 3. Refer to “Applying Joint Compound and Tape.”
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Large Holes 1. If the hole is large enough to expose 1 or more studs, cut the whole into a rectangle,
exposing half of a stud on each side. 2. If no studs are exposed, cut a triangle or square piece of sheetrock larger than the
hole. 3. Place the piece over the hole and trace it on the wall. Cut a hole in the wall the same
size as the patch. 4. Position a small piece of 1x2 or 1x4 inside the hole behind the existing sheetrock. Use
drywall screws to secure the board into place. 5. Position the sheetrock in the hole. Use drywall screws to fasten it in place. 6. Refer to “Applying Joint Compound and Tape.”
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Floor Tiles
Tools you may need Framing Square Tape Measure Chalk Line Utility Knife Pencil Notched Trowel Rolling Pin
Materials you may have Peel & Stick Vinyl Tiles Leveling Compound Vinyl tiles are one of the most popular floor coverings because they are durable and easy to install. They are also easy to maintain and relatively inexpensive compared to other types of floor coverings such as hardwood or ceramic tile.
Vinyl is a practical material for heavy-traffic areas and kitchens, baths and utility rooms. Vinyl tiles in particular are gaining popularity for their decorative value as well.
Tips 8. Fit a tile around an irregular shape by making an outline on a piece of paper. Trace
the outline onto the tile, then cut the tile along the outline with a utility knife. 9. Tiles may be easier to cut if you warm them first. Use an iron and protective cloth,
or simply leave them in the sun for a little while. 10. Store leftover tiles in a cool, dry place to preserve their shape and color in case the
resident needs to replace damaged tiles later.
Keys to success 1. Make sure the subfloor is clean, level and free from holes and bumps. 2. Use a framing square to make sure that your chalk lines are perpendicular to one
another when marking guidelines on the floor. Otherwise your tiles may end up with irregular gaps between them.
3. Apply tiles from the center and work out. 4. Do not walk on the new tiles until 24 hours after installation.
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Installing vinyl tiles 1. Measure and mark the center points of two parallel walls in the room. Snap a chalk
line between the center points. Mark the center of the chalk line. 2. Snap a perpendicular line from wall to wall by aligning one edge of a framing square
with the center point, and the other with the first chalk line. 3. Lay a row of loose tiles along one chalk line, from the center point to one wall. Lay
another row, perpendicular to the first, from the center point to an adjoining wall. 4. If the space left for the tile butting the wall is less than half the width of the tile,
snap a new line parallel to and a half-tile width from the original center line. This will cause the border to be at least a half-tile wide.
5. Once there is at least a half-tile border on all sides, attach self-adhesive tiles by peeling off the paper backing and pressing them into place.
6. Start at the center point and attach tiles along both chalk lines, laying one-quarter of the floor at a time. Fill in tiles between lines to from a pyramid pattern.
7. Run a rolling pin or floor roller over the tiles to bond them securely to the subfloor.
Fitting border tiles (Note: If all tiles are of the same color and design, you can simply cut the last tile to its desired length) 10. Switch last full (black) tile with the one to be trimmed (white) and place a 1/8” shim
against the wall. Place the full (black) tile against the shim, overlapping the (white) tile to be cut.
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11. Mark the bottom (white) tile (the one you will cut) by using edge of the top tile as a guide. Using a utility knife, cut the bottom tile at the mark and replace so that it is in its original position.
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Toilets
Many homes have rotten floors and joists due to leaking toilets. You will need to remove an existing toilet in order to access these tight areas. This is a job you can do without special tools or experience, and you can save the expense of hiring a professional plumber.
Tools you may need Level Adjustable Wrench Screw Driver Sponge
Materials you may have Wax Gasket Toilet Bowl Bolts
Keys to success After removing the old toilet, make sure you remove all of the old wax seal, and clean
the drain flange and the floor around it with household detergent and water. This helps the new wax gasket make a watertight seal that will last many years.
One person can usually carry the toilet components; however, have someone help you if they feel too heavy.
Avoid leaving the resident without use of a toilet overnight. Start the project early in the day and work until it is replaced and working properly.
If the bolts that hold the bowl to the drain flange are badly corroded, purchase new ones.
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Removing the toilet Be sure you have plenty of time, all the tools, and all the materials to do the project
before removing the existing toilet. This will ensure the least amount of time without use of the toilet.
Turn off the water supply first and then flush the toilet to drain the water from the holding tank.
Use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the water-supply line at the tank. If you feel the need to remove the tank from the bowl, do so carefully. This will be
easier to move the toilet, but you may cause another leak in the toilet. Mop up any remaining water inside the tank with a sponge or rag. Remove the two nuts at the base of the bowl. Lift the bowl off of the drain and find a safe place to put it while you are working in
the area. After you have removed the old toilet, stuff rags into the drain opening to keep sewer
gas odors from entering the home. Remember to remove the rags before installing the new toilet.
Installing the toilet 11. Install a new wax gasket over the toilet flange.
Press firmly all the way around so the gasket sticks by itself.
12. Remove any rags from the drain if you used them. 13. Place the toilet over the drain and press down
hard to flatten the gasket. Bolt the toilet down, and make sure that it does not tilt or wobble. Be sure the toilet sits level.
14. Connect the water-supply line to the base of the tank, using the existing pipe or a new adjustable one if needed.
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15. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Flush the toilet a few times to fill the tank, all the while checking for leaks.
